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HANDBOOK 


TO 

LONDON 



[Temple Bar.] 


NEW EDITION REVISED. 

LONDON: 

JOHN MUEEAY, ALBEMAELE STEEET. 
* * 1871 . 




















































\ 



In preparation, a New Edition, revised and enlarged, 

HANDBOOK OF LONDON, Past and Present ; Being 

an Alphabetical Account of all the Remarkable Places con¬ 
nected with Historical and Antiquarian Associations. 


II. 

WESTMINSTER ABBEY ; its Art, Architecture and 
Associations. i6mo, i«. 



NOTICE. 


In no part of the Old World do changes occur 
so rapidly as in London. An improvement mooted 
one year is carried into execution the next. The 
Editor of a Guide-book needs consequently to be 
ever on the watch, if he desires to place his 
readers au courant with the actual state of things. 
Endeavours have been made in every new Edition 
of the present work to effect this object, and its 
success in securing the public favour is no doubt 
due to this cause. 

4 

Care has been taken to insert the lines of 
Metropolitan and Underground Eailways, which 
furnish such facilities for transport to all corners 
of London, and a plan of them forms the frontis¬ 
piece to this edition, 

A full historical description of London, and of 



6* 


NOTICE. 


houses and streets no longer existing, will be found 
in “ The Handbook for London, Past and Present,” 
of which a New Edition is being prepared. 

Any corrections ot eiTors or omissions will 
be thankfully received by the Publisher, 50, Albe¬ 
marle Street. 


CONTENTS 


I. Introductory Information . . . .9* 

II. Palaces of the Sovereign and Koyal Family . . 1 

III. Houses op the Principal Nobility and Gentry . 9 

IV. Parks and Public Gardens . . . . 25 

V. Houses of Parliament . 35 

VI. The Thames, its Quays, Embankment, and Bridges; 

Tunnels, Pool, and Port of London . . .41 

VII. Government Offices.47 

VIII. Commercial Buildings, Banks, Royal Exchange, 

Docks, &c.60 

IX. Markets, Islington, Smithfield, Billingsgate, &c. . 72 

X. Breweries ... ... . . 76 

XI. Water Companies.77 

XII. Main Drainage—Sewerage.79 

xiir. Tower of London 80 

XIV. Churches—Westminster Abbey—St.Paul’s—St, Bar¬ 
tholomew’s—St. Saviour’s—Temple Church—St. 


Helen’s, &c. 94 

XV. Cemeteries, Kensal Green, Highgate .... 132 

XVI. Courts of Law and Justice.136 

xvit. Inns of Court and Inns of Chancery . . .140 

xviii. Prisons and Penitentiaries.146 

XIX. Permanent Free Exhibitions — British Museum— 


National Gallery—South Kensington Museum- 
Museum OP College of Surgeons—Soane Museum— 
United Service Museum—Museum op Practical 
Geology, &c.119 

XX. Theatres and Places of Public Amusement , , 187 

XXI. Learned Institutions—Scientific Societies . . 192 

XXII. Colleges and Schools.203 

XXIII. Hospitals AND Charitable Institutions—Greenwich 


Hospital, &c. 214 

XXIV. Club Houses ..227 

XXV. The City and the Citizens.234 

XXVI. Eminent Persons born in London.250 


XXVII. Eminent Persons buried in London and vicinity . 252 
xxviii. Houses in which eminent Persons have lived . 256 

XXIX. Streets, &c., in which eminent persons have lived 260 






8* 


CONTENTS. 


XXX. Places and Sites connected with Remarkable 

Events.. • 

XXXI. OuT-DooB Monuments and Public Statues . 
xxxii. Pbincipal Thoroughfares, Squares, Lanes, &c. 


Pall-Mall . . . .268 

Piccadilly , , . . 273 

St. James’s-street . . 274 

Regent-st. and Waterloo-pl. 276 

llolborn.278 

Strand .... 280 
Fleet-street . . . . 281 

Cheapside and Poultry . 282 
Cornhill . . . .284 

Drury-lane . . . . 285 

Chancery-lane . . . 286 

Oxford-st., New-rd., City-rd. 287 
Bow-street, Covent Garden . 288 
Great Queen-st., Lincoln’s- 
Inn-Fields , . . 288 

Charing Cross to Westmin¬ 
ster Abbey . . . 289 

xxxiii. Environs of London 
Windsor Castle and Forest, 
Virginia Water . . 308 

Eton College . . . . 308 

Hampton Court . . . 308 

Crystal Palace, Sydenham . 309 
Hampstead and Highgate . 309 
Harrow-on-the-Hill. . . 309 

St. Albans .... 309 
Wimbledon Common . . 309 
Index .... 


FACE 

261 
. 265 
. 267 

Park-lane.290 

Newgate-street . . . 291 

Aldersgate-street . . ,. 292 

Fish-st.-Hill,Gracechurch-st. 

and Bishopsgate-street . 293 
Upper and Lower Thames-st. 294 
High-street, Southwark . 295 
The Thames . . . 296 

Belgrave-sq., Grosvenor-sq. 301 
Berkeley-sq., Portman-sq. 302 
St. James’s-sq., Hanover-sq. 303 
Cavendish-sq., Leicester-sq. 304 
Soho-square .... 305 
Bloomsbury-square . . . 305 

Covent-Garden Market, Lin- 
coln’s-Inn-Fields . . 306 

Trafalgar-square . 307 

.308 

Chiswick .... 309 
Dulwich College and Picture 
Gallery . . . 310 

Greenwich Park and Hos¬ 
pital .... 311 
Woolwich Arsenal . . . 312 

Kew, Botanic Gardens , 313 
Richmond and Twickenham, 314 

.317 


Eist ot anH iHaps. 


Metropolitan Railways. 
Frontispiece, 

Hyde Park .... 27 
St. James’s Park . . .30 

Regent’s Park . . .33 

The Houses of Parliament . 35 
Bank of England, and Offices 
for Dividends, &c. . 60 

Tower of London . . .83 


Westminster Abbey . . . 99 

St. Paul’s Cathedral . .115 

British Museum . . . 151 

„ „ Reading Room 162 

„ „ First Floor . 164 

National Gallery . . . 133 

Royal Horticultural Gardens 203 
South Kensington Museum . 173 
Clue-Map of London at the End. 








INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION 


1. Situation and Fogs 

2. Population and 

Traffic. 

3. Consumption of 

Food, Coal, 
Clothes, &c. «&c. 

4. Political and Mu¬ 

nicipal Divisions. 

5. Social Divisions— 

the West End. 

6. The City. 

7. Great Thorough¬ 

fares running 
East and West. 

S. Ditto running 
North and South. 

9. Railway Stations. 

10. Hoav to see London 

quickly. 

11. How to see London 

leisurely. 

12. Its great Architec¬ 

tural Centres. 

13. The Parks. 

14. The Thames—its 

Quays (Embank¬ 
ment), Steamers, 


Piers from West¬ 
minster to Lon¬ 
don Bridges. 

15. The Thames—from 

London Bridge 
to Gravesend. 

16. The Thames — 

from Hampton 
Court to West¬ 
minster Bridge. 

17. General Hints to 

Strangers. The 
Season. 

18. Electric Tele¬ 

graph, Commis¬ 
sioners, Cabs. 

19. Omnibuses, Tram- 

20. Letters. [ways. 

21. Hotels — Inns — 

Lodgings. 

22. Where to Lunch, 

Dine, or Sup. 

23. Theatres and Ope¬ 

ras. 

24. Miscell an eous 

Exhibitions. 

25. Music. 


26. Objects of Interest 

to the Painter 
and Connoisseur. 

27. To the Sculptor. 

28. To the- Architect 

and Engineer. 

29. To the Antiqua¬ 

rian. 

30. Places and Sights 

which a Stranger 
must see. 

31. Rides near London 

for Equestrians. 

32. Hints to Fo¬ 

reigners. 

33. Newspapers. 

34. Sunday Services 

and Popular 
Preachers. 

35. Studios of the Prin¬ 

cipal Artists. 

36. Metropolitan Im¬ 

provements. 

37. Metropolitan and 

Underground, 

Railways. 


J^ONDON, the MetTopolis of Great Britain and Ireland, is 
situated upon the Eiver Thames, about fifty miles from 
its mouth; the northern and larger portion lying in the 
counties of Middlesex and Essex, the southern in Surrey and 
Kent. The Metropolis is held to include the cities and 
liberties of London and Westminster, the borough of South¬ 
wark, and thirty-six adjacent parishes, precincts, townships, 
and places, including among others the extreme points of 
Hampstead, Islington, Stoke Newington, and Hackney to the 
north; Stratford-le-Bow, Limehouse, Deptford, Greenwich, 
Woolwich, Charlton, and Plumstead to the east; Camberwell 
arid Strcatham to the south; and Kensington, Fulham, 
Hammersmith, and Putney to the west. The site is gene¬ 
rally healthy, the subsoil being, for the most part, gravel. 
The Fogs which occur in winter, especially in November, are 
due, mainly perhaps, to the large expanse of water in the 







10* §§ 2. population; 3. COMMISSARIAT. [The Strangei* 

Thames being, often at that season, warmer than the air, and 
giving forth vapour until the air is densely charged. If the 
atmosphere be still, on such occasions, the smoke from so 
many thousand chimneys, consuming 6,000,000 tons of coal, 
is absorbed by the suspended vapour, and at times becomes 
so thick a cloud as to involve London in darkness even at 
midday. A moderate wind rising speedily disperses the fog, 
which has no dangerous unwholesome qualities, however 
disagreeable it may be. The smoke has been traced, at 
times, as far as Slough; it was often so dense there that 
the elder Herschel was rmable to take solar observations. 

§ 2. The population of London, that is to say of the 36 
parishes included in the census of 1871, was 3,251,804; i.e., 
greater than that of all Scotland, and more than 2-3ds that 
of Ireland. It increases at a rate of about 42,000 per annum. 
London covers an area of 78,000 acres, equal to 122 square 
miles—more than half the area of ancient Babylon, occupying 
both sides of the Thames from Woolwich to Hammersmith, 
and across the river from Hampstead to Norwood. 

§ 3. The annual rental of the Metropolis is about 
.£18,700,000. The Metropolis is supposed to consume in one 
year 1,600,000 quarters of wheat, 300,000 bullocks, 1,700,000 
sheep, 28,000 calves, and 35,000 pigs. One market alone 
(Leadenhall) supplies about 4,025,000 head of game. This, 
together with 3,000,000 of salmon, irrespective of other fish 
and flesh, is washed down by 43,200,000 gallons of porter and 
ale, 2,000,000 gallons of spirits, and 65,000 pipes of wine. 
To fill its milk and cream jugs, 13,000 cows are kept. To 
light it at night, 860,000 gas-lights fringe the streets, con¬ 
suming, every 24 hours, 13,000,000 cubic feet of gas. Its 
artei'ial or water system supplies the enormous quantity of 
44,383,328 gallons per day, while its venous or sewer system 
carries off 9,502,720 cubic feet of I’efuse. To warm its people 
and to supply its factories, a fleet, amounting to upwards of 
a thousand sail, is employed in bringing annually 3,000,000 
tons of coal,* exclusive of 2,000,000 tons brought by rail. 
The thirsty souls of London need have no fear of becoming 
tbirstier as long as there ai’e upwards of 6700 public-houses 
and 2000 wine merchants to minister to their deathless 


* See Coal Exchange. 


in LondouJ 


§ 3. TRADES AND PROFESSIONS. 


II# 


thirst. The bread to this enormous quantity of sack is 
represented by 2500 bakers, 1700 butchers, not including 
pork butchers, 2600 tea-dealers and grocers, 1260 coffee- 
room keepers, nearly 1500 dairy-men, and 1350 tobacconists. 
To look after the digestion of this enormous amount of 
food upwards of 2400 duly licensed practitioners, surgeons 
and physicians, are daily running to and fro through this 
mighty metropolis, whose patients, in due course of time 
and physic, are handed over to the tender mercies of 500 
undertakers. Nearly 3000 boot and shoe-makers add their 
aid to that of the doctor to keep our feet dry and warm, 
while 2950 tailors do as much for the rest of our bodies. 
The wants of the fairer portion of the population are sup¬ 
plied by 1080 linendrapers, 1560 milliners and dress¬ 
makers, 1540 private schools take charge of our children; 
and, let us add, that 290 pawnbrokers’ shops find employ¬ 
ment and profit out of the reverses, follies, and vices of 
the community. About 400,000 houses give shelter to 
upwards of three millions of people, whose little differences 
are aggravated or settled by upwards of 3000 attorneys and 
3900 barristers. The spiritual wants of this mighty aggre¬ 
gate of human souls are cared for by more than 2000 cleigy- 
men and dissenting ministers, who respectively preside over 
620 churches and 423 chapels, of which latter buildings the 
Independents have 121, the Baptists 100, the Wesleyans 77, 
the Roman Catholics about 90, whereas in 1808 they had 
but 13, the Calvinists and English Presbyterians 10 each, the 
Quakers 7, and the Jews 10 ; the numerous other sects being 
content with numbers varying from one to five each. To 
wind up with the darkest part of the picture, the metropolis 
contains on an average 129,000 paupers. 

§ 4. The first and most natural action of a stranger, upon his 
first visit to London, is to consult a Map—just as he scans 
narrowly the face of a new acquaintance. Let the reader, 
therefore, open the Clue Map at the end of this volume, 
which will enable him to follow out main divisions and cha¬ 
racteristic features. 

The City of London p'O^tr is that space which anciently 
lay within the walls and liberties, having for its base the 
N. bank of the Thames, its W. line extending to Middle 
Temple-lane, where, crossing Fleet-street at Temple Bar 



§ 5. WEST END. 


[The Stranger 


12* 


(the only City barrier remaining), and Holborn at South- 
ampton-buildings, it afterwards skirts Smithfield, Barbican, 
and Finsbury-circus on the N., crossing the end of Bishops- 
gate-street Without; and then, pursuing its way southward 
down Petticoat-lane, across the end of Aldgate-street, and 
along the Minories, it finally reaches the Thames at the 
Tower. This portion of London sends fom’ members to 
Parliament, possesses a corporation,—the oldest, richest, 
and most powerful municipal body in the world,—and is 
divided into 108 parishes, of which 11 are called “Without,” 
and 97 “Within,” the walls. The population of the City has 
diminished from 129,869, in 1851, to 113,387 in 1861, owing 
to so many houses being converted from dwellings into 
offices, shops, &c., occupied only in the day-time, by mer¬ 
chants, tradesmen, clerks, &c., who live at the West End or 
in the suburbs. The number of its inhabited houses is 
14,580: their annual rental is £2,109,935. Since 1830 the 
greater part of the city has been rebuilt, and in all cases 
very superior houses have been substituted for inferior. 
2000 houses are left at night tenantless in the charge of the 
police alone—608 men in all. 

The City of Westmimter (now swallowed up in London) 
possesses no municipality, and though far more populous 
than “the City,” containing 26,400 inhabited houses, and 
253,985 inhabitants, sends only two members to Parlia¬ 
ment. Its E. line coincides with the AV. line of the 
City of London, From its Tottenham-court end to its 
suburban limit at Kensington Gardens, it is bounded to 
the K. by Oxford-street; and on its far W. side, crossing 
the centre of the Serpentine in Hyde Park, it reaches the 
Thames at Chelsea Hospital. 

The Metropolitan Boroughs, viz., Marylebone, Finsbury, 
Tower Hamlets, Hackney and Chelsea, N. of the Thames, 
and Southwark and Lambeth, S. of it, return each two 
members to the House of Commons. 

§ 5. The social and fashionable divisions of London differ 
materially from the municipal and parliamentary divisions. 
Thus, the social centre of Modern London is Temple Bar; 
the commercial centre the Bank of England; and the cab 


in London.] § 5. TTBURNIA.—BELGRAVIA. 13 * 

centre, Charing Cross. That part of London which radiates 
from Hyde Park Corner includes the mansions of many of 
the nobility, the leading Club-houses, many well-inhabited 
streets, the most fashionable square in London (Grosvenor- 
square), and two districts, commonly known by the new- 
coined names of Tyhumia and Belgravia. 

Tyhurnia, or the northern wing, is that vast city, in point 
of size, which the increasing wealth and population of Lon¬ 
don have caused to be erected, between 1839 and 1850, on 
the green fields and nursery gardens of the See of London’s 
estate at Paddington. Built at one time, and nearly on one 
principle, it assumes in consequence a regularity of appearance 
contrasting strangely with the older portions of Modern 
London. Fine squares, connected by spacious streets, and 
houses of great altitude, give a certain air of nobility to 
the district. The sameness, however, caused by endless 
repetitions of “compo” decorations, distresses the eye, 
and puzzles the resident in London nearly as much as it 
does the stranger. Tyburnia is principally inhabited by 
professional men, the great City merchants, including many 
representatives of Greek houses, a very wealthy community, 
and by those who are undergoing the transitional state be¬ 
tween commerce and fashion. Its boundaries may be said to 
be the Edgeware-road on the E., Bayswater on the W., Maida- 
hill on the N., and Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens on 
the S. Magnificent terraces, squares, and streets now entirely 
surround Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens, and London 
has spread without interruption to Kensington, Hotting Hill, 
and Paddington. 

Belgravia, or the southern wing of the West End, a creation 
of about twenty-five years, 1826-52, is built on land belonging 
to the Marquis of Westminster, bounded by Grosvenor- 
place on the E., Sloane-street on the W., Knightsbridge on 
the N., and by the Thames on the S. E. This space in¬ 
cludes Belgrave and Eaton-squares, whose houses, palatial 
in character and size, denote the high social position of 
their occupants. Eegularity and largeness of proportion arc 
the leading characteristics of this fashionable neighbourhood. 
Since 1852 it has extended to Chelsea and Pimlico New 
Bridge, and includes the vast Victoria Railway Station. 


14* § 5. SOUTH KENSINGTON.—BELGRAVIA. [The Stranger 

Contiguous to Belgravia lie Bronipton and Chelsea. 
Brompton, lying low, and the air being moist and warm, is 
the resort of consumptive persons. Attached to Brompton 
has risen, since 1854, a new quarter, South Kensington, com¬ 
posed of some splendid rows and streets, and including the 
South Kensington Museum, and the Horticultural Carden. 
The once rural Chelsea is crowded with poor. Close to 
Belgravia on its S.E. side lies Westminster proper, like the 
beggar at the rich man’s gate. Private liberality has at¬ 
tempted to cure the plague spot by the erection of four 
or five churches, and the formation of a spacious street 
(Victoria-street) through the very centre of Tothill-fields. 
Part of Westminster lies beneath the level of the Thames at 
high water. 

To the N.E. of Tyburnia lies the Regent's ParJc district, 
extending from the north side of Oxford-street to Camden 
Town and Somers Town, and including Marylebone proper 
(with its 375,000 inhabitants), and the still well-inhabited 
Portman, Manchester, and Cavendish-squares. Here, with 
a few solitary exceptions, dwells Middle-Class London. 
Still further E. we come to the Bloomsbury and Bedford- 
square district, with its well-built houses and squares 
erected between 1790 and 1810, and, till the great removal 
towards the west in 1828, a much better frequented neigh¬ 
bourhood than it is at present. This portion of the Metropolis 
is chiefly occupied by lawyers and merchants ; its noble 
mansions no longer holding, as formerly (between 1796 and 
1825), the rank and fashion of the Town. Somewhat E. (and 
in the same Bloomsbury and Bedford-square district) we 
recognise the architecture of the era of Anne, in the capa¬ 
cious dwellings of Great Ormond-street and Queen-square, 
now given up for the most part to lodging-house keepers; 
and, still stepping eastward, are traces of the continuation 
from Great Queen-street, Lincoln’s-Inn-fields, of that west¬ 
ward march which fashion has taken witliin the last 160 
years. 

S. of Oxford-street is the Covent Garden and Strand 
district; with the exception of streets running at right angles 
from it to the Thames, principally occupied by shops and 
lodging-houses, and west of it is the very low Leicester-square 
neighbourhood, chiefly inhabited by foreigners. 


In London.] § G. THE CITY.—BUILDINGS.—^YREN’s PLAN. 15 * 

§ 6 . The City of London as originally built, in the style 
that prevailed between 1666 and 1800, is of dingy brick, ex¬ 
cept where stately avenues like King William-street, Cannon- 
street, Mansion House-street, and others, have been pierced 
through the labyrinth of narrow lanes. The streets for the 
most part are confined and inconvenient, as is observable in 
all originally walled cities where space was precious. Never¬ 
theless, an immense change has taken place in the buildings 
of the City since the discovery of gold in California and 
Australia. The general demand for better accommodation, 
and especially for new Banks, Assurance and other Offices 
and warehouses, the proprietors of which deem a splendid 
exterior the best mode of advertising themselves, has 
caused small and low houses to be demolished, and in 
all cases to be replaced by vast and lofty structures, all 
with pretensions, and many with some claims to architec¬ 
tural beauty and grandeur. The result has been that the 
city, not only in its great thoroughfares, but also in its minor 
streets and lanes, has magnificent edifices to show, and has 
become, in truth, a city of palaces. There is also much pic¬ 
turesqueness in the interiors of many of the palaces of the 
old merchant princes, now converted into counting-houses 
and chambers. Wren, under whose direction the City was 
rebuilt after the Great Fire in 1666, originally intended to 
have laid out the streets in a regular manner : the principal 
thoroughfares radiating from St. Paul’s with a width of not 
less than 70 feet. But economy carried the day against his 
magnificent design, and the City arose as we have described 
it. To the antiquary it presents few features of interest] 
for the architect the churches built by Wren and his pupils, 
and many modem public and private buildings, deserve 
attention. 

The City” is, par excellence, the head-quai'ters of the trade 
and commerce of the country. Here everything is brought 
to a focus, and every interest has its representative. In 
Lincoln’s Inn and the Temple the lawyers find the quiet 
and retirement congenial to their pursuits. In the great 
thoroughfares, retail trade is triumphant. In the narrow, dim 
lanes, which scarce afford room for carriages to pass each 
other, the wholesale Manchester warehouses are^ congregated. 
In Thames-street and its immediate vicinity, commerce is rC- 


§ 6. THE CITr. 


[The Stranger 


16# 


presented by its Custom House, its Com Exchange, its Coal 
Exchange, and its great wharves. The fish and foreign fruit 
trades dwell in the thronged thoroughfare of Thames-street. 
Tn Lombard-street the money power is enthroned. It is 
chiefly occupied by Bankers. In Houndsditch the Jews most 
do congregate. In Paternoster-row and its neighbourhood, 
booksellers are located. St. Paul’s furnishes the religious ele¬ 
ment of this strange compound of interests. The Exchange 
and the Bank, placed side by side, might be likened to the two 
ventricles of the great City heart ; and grouped around, from 
first floor to garret in almost every house, are the offices 
of the Brokers who act as the agents for the circulation of 
the world’s wealth. Yet this spot, teeming by day with its 
hundreds of thousands, its streets gorged by can'iages, cabs, 
and carts, presents at night, and still more on a Sunday, 
the spectacle of a deserted city. The banks closed, and 
the post gone,—the railway carriage, the omnibus, and the 
steam-boat, carry the clerks to the outskirts, and the mer¬ 
chants and principals to their villas and mansions at Clap- 
ham, Hackney, or the West End. The actual resident 
population of the City is diminishing, and many of its 58 
churches—each parish having been provided, by the piety 
of our ancestors, with its own church—are nearly empty on 
Sundays. The judicious efforts of the Church Commission 
to remove them to other sites, are thwarted by the petty 
interests of local vestries. Still the value of land for offices 
and warehouses is immensely increased, and it appeared, from 
legal valuations in 1866, that the ground near St. Paul’s and 
the Koyal Exchange has been sold at a rate not far below 
l,O0O,000Z. an acre. Sums varying from 201. to 371. the 
square foot are commonly given. 

That space without the limits of the City proper which 
includes the N. bank of the river Thames as far as Blackwall, 
is occupied by docks, wharves, manufactories, and warehouses, 
and inhabited by slop-sellers, crimps, and sailors. Everything 
here has reference to maritime affairs. H. of this district lies 
Spitalficlds and Bethnal Green, in traversing which the Eastern 
Counties Eail way reveals to the traveller the crowded dwellings 
of the silk-weavers, readily distinguishable by the broad garret 
windows, through which their hand-looms may be seen at 
work. The once rural Islington, to the N., is mostly inhabited 


Hyde Par 


iu London.] §§ 7, 8 . MAIN THOROUGHFARES NORTH & SOUTH. I 

by the middle classes, and those immediately beneath them 
in the social scale. It lies high, and is considered one of the 
healthiest portions of the metropolis. The densely peopled 
district of Clerkenwell (west of Islington and north-east of 
Lincoln’s-Inn-fields) is occupied by some of the best-paid 
and best-informed artisans in London. 

If we cross to the Surrey side of the Thames, we come to 
the boroughs of Southwark and Lamheth, the former, including 
Bermondsey, the great seat of the tanning trade ; the latter 
principally occupied by manufactories. Rotherhithe and Com¬ 
mercial Dock ai’c the head-quartei’s of sailors, and are but 
meanly built and inhabited—indeed the whole of the right 
bank of the Thames at London is much inferior in wealth and 
importance to that portion lying on the left or Middlesex shore. 

§ 7. To enable the visitor to find his way from point to point, 
his best plan will be to study the Clue Map at the end of 
this volume, and fix in his mind the direction of the gi-eat 
thoroughfares. These generally run from E. to W., and 
from N. to S. The great E. and W. lines of streets are 
those which lead from either side of Hyde Park to the 
Bank, and then fork off again, and terminate in the remote 
E. of the metropolis, forming a design somewhat in the 
shape of an hour-glass. 



To the N. of these lines sweep the New and City Roads, 
which run like a boulevard almost completely round tlie N. 
and E. of the metropolis. On the S. side of the rivej’, Stam- 
ford-street and the York-road follow for a mile the curve of 
the river, and, together with the New Cut and its continua¬ 
tions, intersect the different roads leading from the bridges. 

§ 8. In the West End, the main thoroughfares running 
N. and S. are the Edgeware-road, leading from the W. end of 
Oxford-street to St. John’s-wood; Portland-place and Regent- 

b 




§ 9. RAILWAY STATIONS, ETC. 


[The Stranger 


18 * 


street, running from Regent’s Park to CLaring-cross; Hamp¬ 
stead and Tottenbam-court Roads, connecting Hampstead 
with Holborn. The City is brought into connection with 
its northern suburbs by Gray’s Inn-lane, which nins from 
Holborn-hill to the New-road; by Aldersgate-street and 
Goswell-street, which lead in a direct line from the Post 
Office to the Angel at Islington; and by Gracechurch- 
street, Bishopsgate-street, Norton-folgate, and Shoreditch, 
connecting Kingsland and Hoston with London Bridge and 
Southwark. 

On the Southwark and Lambeth, or Surrey side of the 
Thames and the Metropolis, the roads converge from the 
six bridges to the well-known tavern, the Elephant and 
Castle, which is about equidistant from all of them 
(excepting Vauxhall Bridge); from the tavern they again 
diverge, the Kent-road leading to Greenwich, and the 
Kenningtou and Newington Roads leading to Brixton and 
Tulse Hill, outskirts of Loudon, studded with the villas and 
cottages of men “ upon ’Change.” 

The streets of the Metropolis, about 2800 in number, would, 
if put together, extend 3000 miles in length. The main 
thoroughfares are ti’aversed by 1200 omnibuses, and 3500 cabs 
(besides piivate carriages and carts), employing 40,000 horses. 

In addition to these noisy and thronged thoroughfares, we 
have what has been called ‘‘the silent highway” of the Thames, 
running through the heart of the Metropolis, and ti’aversed 
continually by steamboats which take up and set down pas¬ 
sengers at more than 20 different landing-places between 
Chelsea and Blackwall, Greenwich and Gravesend, and, when 
the tide serves, run as high as Hampton Court. 

From London Bridge, St. Katherine’s whfu’f, and from 
Tower-stairs, the various Continental steamboats start. From 
London Bridge, the Margate and Ramsgate boats set off, 
making,-in the season, excursions on the Sunday to those 
places and back the same day. 

§ 9. Railway Statioks or Termini in London:—Many 
of these are buildings of great size and magnificence and 
deserve to be visited as architectural and engineering wonders. 
Especially worthy of note are the !Midland, Great Northern, 
and Great Western Termini. 


in London.] §§ 10, 11. HOW TO SEE LONDON, ETC. 19 * 


Great Western—Paddington. 
London and North Western 


(Eiiston-square; New-road; 
( Liverpool-street, City. 


Great Northern—King’s-eross. 

Great Midland—Euston Koad, St. Pancras. 

Great Eastern—Shoreditch (and Fiusbury-circus). 

South Western—Waterloo-road, Lambeth. 

j Cannon-street; London- 
. ( bridge; Charing-cross. 


South Eastern 


Crystal Palace, Croydon and 

Epsom. 

London and Brighton . 


Victoria Station, Pimlico; 
London-bridge. 


London, Chatham, and Dover j 

1 Ludgate Hill. 

S Farringdon-street. 

Moorgate-street. 

Victoria-street. 


§ 10. The stranger can comprehend, in the quickest way, 
the most remarkable features of the Metropolis, and in an 
economical manner, by taking the box-seat of an omnibus, 
and making friends with the driver. Let him take, for in¬ 
stance, a Kensington omnibus, and go as far eastward as tlie 
Bank. In this manner he will make himself acquainted 
with the characteristic features of Piccadilly with its noble 
mansions, and of the great thoroughfares of the Strand, Fleet- 
street, and Cheapside. The return drive might be made 
by a Paddington omnibus, which will take him through 
Holborn, over the Viaduct, by New Oxford and Oxford 
Streets, as far as the Marble Arch at Cumberland Gate. A 
direct N. and S. section of the Metropolis might be viewed 
by taking a ^‘Waterloo” omnibus, which starts from the 
York and Albany Tavern, Regent’s Park, and pursues the 
line down Regent-street, past Charing-cross, and so along the 
Strand over Waterloo Bridge; also by an ‘‘Atlas” omnibus, 
wliich traverses the same line as far as Charing-cross, and 
then tums down Whitehall, and goes along Parliament-street 
across Westminster Bridge to the Elephant and Castle. These 
three routes, if followed up by an excursion on the Thames 
from Chelsea to Greenwich, would show at a rapid glance 
most of the architectural featm’es of the Metropolis. 

§ 11. For those who have ample time to examine the 

h 2 





10 * §§11; 12. ARCHITECTURAL CENTRES. [The Straugci' 

public buildings, we would recommend a v/alk from London 
Bridge W. to Trafalgar-square; then an examination of 
Whitehall, Pall-mall, and Regent-street, forming the irregular 
cross which springs from Trafalgar-square. By this means 
the visitor will pass the six great centres of life and archi¬ 
tecture which distinguish the Metropolis. 

Another walk—by which many interesting aspects and 
prospects of London may be obtained—is to “thread the 
Bridges and Quays ; ” commencing with i\ie Albert Quay, 
at Lambeth, crossing the noble Bridge of Westminster, from 
Avhich the Parliament Houses are well seen, then along 
the Victoria Embankment, quickly passing beneath Hunger- 
ford, but pausing to admire Waterloo, Bridge, to Blackfriars, 
whence you have the best view of St. Paul’s, and after 
traversing Southwark Bridge, you find your way along the 
Surrey bank of the Thames to London Bridge. The fine 
walk along the Thames Embankment, from Westminster to 
Blackfriars, presents London in perhaps its most agreeable 
aspect. It ought to become a fashionable drive. 

§ 12, The^rs^ of these great centres—London Bridge—is 
the one a Foreigner naturally sees first, and it is the spot above 
all others calculated to impress him most with the importance 
and ceaseless activity of London. The bridge itself—crowded 
with an ever-moving stream of people and vehicles, and 
lined at the same time with the heads of curious spectators, 
gazing upon the busy waters below—is a picture of the 
manner in which the two currents of business-men and 
sight-seers are continually shouldeiiug each other. On the 
other hand, the scene below is equally instinct with life. A hove 
bridge we see the stairs of the penny steamboats, landing and 
taking in West-End or Greenwich passengers, amid a perfect 
din of bell-ringing and cloud of steam-blowing. Beloio bridge 
we see the “ Pool,” looking, with its fleets of colliers moored 
in the stream, like the avenues of a forest in the leafless 
winter. The Custom-house, with its long columniated fa 9 ade, 
and the Italian-looking fish-market at Billingsgate, also stnkc 
the eye. The foot of the bridge, on either hand, is flanked 
with great buildings — the Fishmongers’ Hall, belonging to 
one of the richest of the City companies. Passing up Fish- 
street-hill the Monument is seen, from base to summit, erected 
to commemorate the Great Fire—still the most beautiful 


in London.] § 12. ARCHITECTURAL CENTRES. 21=^ 

and picturesque of all tlie metropolitan columns. A little 
farther on, William IV.’s statue, woi’ked in granite, stands 
guard at the entrance of King-William-street and Cannon- 
street, leading thoroughfares opened since 1834 ; it occupies 
very nearly the site of the famous Boar's Head Tavern in 
Eastcheap. At the end of King-William-street we approach 
our second architectural centre—the Bank of England, a low, 
richly-adorned building—admirably adapted to the purposes 
of its foundation. The open space at this point is sur¬ 
rounded by several striking architectural elevations. The 
Royal Exchange, the Sun Fire-office, the Mansion-house, 
and the towers of the church of St. Mary Woolnoth, mark 
the sky-line in a most picturesque manner; nor can the 
equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington, in front of 
the Exchange, fail to attract attention. The narrow passage 
of the Poultry, by which Cheapside is reached, has no 
feature of interest. Passing King-street, however, the pseudo- 
Gothic front of Guildhall, standing full in the light at the 
end of King-street, strikes one as picturesque, notwith¬ 
standing the viciousness of its style; while in Cheapside 
the stately steeple of Bow Church (Wren’s fine.st steeple) 
never fails to arrest the attention of the stranger. Out of 
the comparative narrowness of Cheapside, the visitor will 
emerge {left) into St. Paul’s-churchyard in presence of the 
Cathedral, and {right) upon the Post Office, our third great 
centre of life and architecture. The Cathedral is Wren’s great 
masterpiece; the Post Office was built by Sir R. Smirke. 

From St. Paul’s, along Fleet-street and the Strand, we 
gradually see how the characteristic features of one city 
mingle with those of the other. In our way we pass under 
Temple Bar, and pass Somerset House (one of the head¬ 
quarters of the Civil Service) on our left. The counting- 
houses of the City” (it is easy to observe) have slowly dis¬ 
appeared, and the shops have a gayer and more miscellaneous 
aspect. At last Charing-cross is reached, and we recognise 
at once our fourth architectural centre of the great West 
End, from which improvement has shot out on every side. 
Standing on the raised platform beneath the portico of the 
National Gallery, we see before us the towers of the Houses 
of Parliament, and the perspective of the leading Govern¬ 
ment offices forming a line of street by themselves; on the 


22* § 12. ARCHITECTURAL CENTRES. [The Stranger 

left hand is the beautiful church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields, 
and on the right the vista of Pall-mall, with its splendid 
Club-houses. Well might the late Sir K. Peel designate 
Charing-cross as “the finest site in Europe.” The square 
itself, with its ugly fountains and its ill-proportioned 
column, will require entirely remodelling before it can be 
worthy of its position, and we have purposely turned our 
visitor’s back to the National Gallery that he may not be 
offended with its mean front. Charing-cross may claim to be 
called the centre of the Arts, as the Bank is the centre of 
Commerce. 

Turning directly down Whitehall, w’e approach that 
portion of Westminster devoted to the principal Government 
offices and the Legislature; on the right hand is the Ad¬ 
miralty (distinguished by its screen and portico), from which 
the fleets of England are governed ; a little further on is 
the Horse Guards, the head-quarters of the Commander-iu- 
Chief. The long range of buildings still further on the 
right (refronted by Sir Charles Barry) consists of the Home 
Office, the Privy Council Office, and the Treasury, all under 
one roof; and the little narrow street forming a ctil de sac, 
which terminates it, is the world-famous Downing-street, 
containing the official residences of the Prime Minister, and 
the Secretaries of State for Foreign and Colonial Affairs. 
The old street is pulled down, and on its site rise the mag¬ 
nificent Public Offices designed by G. G. Scott, extendiug to 
St. James’s Park, which occasioned the struggle known as 
the “Battle of the Styles.” Nearly opposite to the Horse 
Guards is the Banqueting-house of the Old Palace of White¬ 
hall, the masterpiece of Inigo Jones; in front of which King 
Charles I. was beheaded. 

The Jifth great architectural centre of the Metropolis is 
at the end of Parliament-street. Here the Church, the Law, 
and the Legislature, are represented : the first in the noble 
old Abbey, the second in the Courts of Westminster Hall, 
and the third in the Parliament Houses, whose towers, rising 
to a gigantic height, break in from point to point upon 
the sight. This spot, indeed, might be considered the intel¬ 
lectual centre of the Metropolis. Within so small a space 
the earth perhaps holds not so many distinguished men 
amongst the living and the dead. 


ia London.] § 12. ARCHITECTURAL CENTRES. 23* 

Retracing our steps down Parliament-street we come to 
Waterloo-place, our sixth architectural centre, not inaptly 
called the centre of social and political life. Here we are in 
the heart of Club-laud. Looking towards the Duke of York’s 
Column, which terminates the view, we have on our right 
hand the Athenseum, chiefly frequented by literary men; on 
the left, and exactly opposite it, the United Service Club, 
whose members are naval and military veterans. Next to the 
Athenaeum, which stands at the commencement of Pall-mall 
West, is the Travellers’. The Reform, which is observable 
from its great size and from its Italian architecture, stands 
next in order. To the Reform succeeds the Carlton, the 
head-quarters of the Conservatives, a stately building, dis¬ 
tinguished by its polished granite pillars. The Oxford and 
Cambridge and the Guards’ Club houses complete this side 
of Club-land. On the opposite side, the Junior Carlton, 
and at the corner, turning into St. James’s-square, is the 
Army and Navy Club. 

At the bottom of St. James’s-street stand Marlborough 
House, of red brick, and St. James’s Palace, a dingy but 
pictvu'esque old building full of historical associations. 
Ascending the street, on the left-hand side are seen the 
Conservative Club, Arthur’s, and Brooks’s (the Whig head¬ 
quarters), whilst near the top was the once famous or 
infamous Crockford’s, long a dining tavern. “White’s” 
and “Boodle’s,” fashionable Clubs, and piincipally resorted 
to by elderly country gentlemen, stand on the opposite side 
near the top. Tlie stranger should endeavom-, by personal 
introduction of a member, to procure admission to see some 
of these Clubs, especially the Reform, famous for its central 
hall, and its kitchen planned by M. Soyer. The halls, stair¬ 
cases, and apartments of the Carlton, The Conservative, and 
Army and Navy Clubs, are very handsome. 

Returning to Waterloo-place, after noticing for a few 
moments the noble park front of Carlton-terrace, which 
stands upon the site of Carlton House, the visitor should 
ascend Regent-street. This street was built by Nash during 
the regency of George IV., and was the first great improve¬ 
ment of the Metropolis since the days of Wren. A few 
years since, a piazza covered in the footways on both sides 
of that part of it called the Quadrant; and the double curve 


24* § 13. THE PARKS AND THAMES. [The Stranger 

of columns thus formed had a noble effect. The lath-and- 
plaster style of Nash’s architecture in Eegent-street has 
given rise to the reproach that it cannot stand either wind 
or weather. Nevertheless, it is the brightest and most 
cheerful street in the Metropolis; and its sunny side, with 
its shops (many of which are French) filled with elegancies 
of all kinds, especially those pertaining to the female toilet, 
is one of the liveliest promenades in the Metropolis between 
the hours of 3 and 6 o’clock in the afternoon. Portland- 
place, a wide monotonous street, forms the continuation of 
Regent-street, and terminates in Park-crescent, a fine sweep 
of houses on either side opening out to the Regent’s Park. 

When the visitor has well surveyed the routes pointed 
out, presenting an irregular pattern-card of almost every 
style, he will have made himself master of the entire street 
architecture of London. 

To comprehend at a glance the immense amount of busi¬ 
ness done in London as a Port, I would suggest a walk 
along Thames-street and Tooley-street, whose gigantic ware¬ 
houses keep the thoroughfare in a perpetual gloom, and 
whose cranes hold in mid air during the day the varied 
produce of the world. The Custom-house-quay, with its 
long room; Billingsgate-market, the Coal-market close at 
hand, St. Katherine’s and the London Docks, might all be 
taken in the walk. 

§ 13. The Paries of the Metropolis, not inaptly called the 
lungs of London, are seven in number, and chiefly in the West 
End. St. James’s Park, the Green Park, Hyde Park, and 
Kensington Gardens, lie so close to each other, that one may 
walk from Charing-cross, the very heart of the Metropolis, to 
Bayswater, a distance of three miles, scarcely taking one’s 
feet off the sod. These three parks enclose London on 
its W. side; whilst Regent’s Park lies to the N.W., Victoria 
and Finsbury Parks to the N.E., and Battersea Park, a 
beautifully kept flower-garden, with fine sheet of water, 
cricket grounds, &c., on the Thames, opposite to Chelsea, to 
the S.AV. Besides these open spaces, which are beautifully 
laid out, the ventilation of the Great Babylon is in some 
degree provided for by its numerous squares, some of them 
of large extent, and planted with trees; and by its Botanic 


in London.] § 14. THE THAMES AND ITS BRIDGES. 


25 


* 


Gardens, Cemeteries, and Nurseries; which, taken together, 
occupy many hundred acres of ground. 


§ 14. The Thames. —Steamers on the Thames, belonging 
to different Companies, ply up and down the river for a fare 
varying from IcA to 3d. and 6d. according to distance, be¬ 
tween Chelsea, Westminster, Hungerford, and London 
Bridges, starting in summer every five minutes—fares and 
intervals of starting in proportion for greater distances, up 
to Richmond and down to Greenwich. 

There is a steamer started from Hungerford Pier almost 
every five minutes in summer. 


LIST OF STEAMBOAT PIERS BELOW BRIDGE. 
London Brid.ge Pier. —Close to Brighton and Dover Railway; 
the Monument; Billingsgate; aad not far from the Bank 
and Royal Exchange ; Tower. 

Cherry Garden Pier. Blackwall Pier. 

Thames Tunnel Pier. Greenwich Pier. 

Deptford Pier. Woolwich Pier. 


PIERS ABOVE LONDON BRIDGE. 
St. Paul's PifT—near to— St. Paul’s; Post Office. 


Blackfriars 
Temple „ „ 

Waterloo „ „ 

Hungerford „ „ 

Westminster Bridge Pier 

Lambeth ,, „ 

Vauxhall Bridge „ 

Battersea Station „ 

Battersea Park „ 

Chelsea Pier „ 

Old Battersea Bridge „ 


Bridge Street; Fleet Street. 

The Temple; Temple Bar. 

Somerset House; Strand; CoventGarden. 
Charing Cross; National Gallery; Lei¬ 
cester Square. 

Houses of Parliament; Westminster Ab¬ 
bey; Public Offices; Law Courts. 
Palace and Wire Bridge. 

Belgravia; Hyde Park Corner. 

Railway to Crystal P.tlace. 

The Park and Gardens. 

CheyneWalk; Chelsea Hospital. 
Cremorne Gardens. 


Having traversed the principal .streets, let us take boat 
with our visitor and show him the river Thames thorough¬ 
fare of the Metropolis, which displays, in a more complete 
manner perhaps than any other, what London really is, both 
in extent and chai’acter. Taking one of the penny steamers 
at Westminster Bridge, he sees before him several specimens 
of that bridge architecture which has made London so 
famous. Westminster Bridge, under whoso broad shadow 
he for a moment rests, was rebuilt 1859-62 of iron, in keep¬ 
ing with the adjacent Houses of Parliament. 

The banks of the river below Westminster Bridge, 
formerly occupied by coal barges, mud-banks, a few good 


26* §14. THE THAMES AND ITS BRIDGES.^ [The Stranger 

houses, some mean wharfs, and many still meaner build¬ 
ings, is now, on that side at least, bordered by Quay^ 
worthy the river and metropolis. As we descend the 
stream, Hungerford Kailway Bridge, starting on the Mid¬ 
dlesex shore from the Charing Cross Station, close to the 
AVater Gate * of York-house, next crosses the widest portion 
of the Thames. Then is seen the Adelphi-terrace, built by 
the brothers Adam—in the centre house of which lived and 
died David Garrick. Lower down is AA^aterloo Bridge, with 
its nine arches, the centre one having a span of 120 feet. 
This bridge, which is perfectly level, and built of the finest 
gi’anite, is certainly a noble structure, and well becomes 
the fine fagade of Somerset House, rising from a terrace 
immediately beyond it, on the left bank, and extending 400 
feet along the river. Still farther down, on the same shore, 
the pleasant Temple Gardens are seen on the left, green and 
flourishing, amid the surrounding blackness of the City. The 
two Blackfriars Bridges, over which rises the stately dome of 
St. Paul’s, are next passed; then comes ‘‘ the thick ” of the 
City, on the left bank, and the sky is penetrated by the spires 
of numerous churches, surmounted by the grand dome of 
St. Paul’s, indicating by their numbers the ancestral piety of 
London. An iron lattice bridge, to carry the Charing Cross 
railway to Cannon-street, thrusts itself across ; and below 
it Southwark Bridge, built of iron, remarkable for its central 
arch, of 240 feet span, the widest curved arch in the world. 

London Bridge, the lowest or most seaward of the metro¬ 
politan bridges, with its five granite arches crossing the 
Thames, divides London into ‘‘above” and “below” bridge. 
“Above bridge,” the traffic of the river consists of black 
coal barges,—bright-coloured and picturesque Thames hoys, 
laden with straw,—and the crowded penny and tw'openny 
steamboats darting along with almost railway rapidity. 
Immediately the arches of London Bridge are shot, the 
scene is at once changed. The visitor finds himself in a 
vast estuary crowded with ships as far as the eye can reach. 
Many great commercial establishments and the principal 
Docks of London lie on the left bank of the Thames, 
“ below ” bridge. The Fish-market (Billingsgate), and the Coal 

* Not a work of Inigo Jones’, but of Nicholas Stone, mason and 
carver. 


in London] 


§ 15 . “the pool.” 


27«' 


Exchange, are rapidly pa.ssed, after which the Tower, square and 
massive, with its irregular out-buildings, and its famous Trai- 
tor’s-gate, may be said to terminate the boundary of the City. 


§ 15. The Pool commences just below London Bridge, where 
the river is divided into two channels by the treble range of 
colliers and other vessels anchored in it to discharge their 
cargoes—the city of London deriving its chief income from 
a tax of Is. Ic?. per ton levied on coals consumed in the 
metropolis and its vicinity. Only a certain number of these 
dingy-looking colliers are admitted into the “ Pool” at once, 
the remainder waiting in the Lower Pool ” until the flag 
which denotes that it is full is lowered, when those enter 
that are first in rank. The greatest order and regularity in 
marshalling these coal fleets is absolutely necessary to avoid 
choking the water-way. A little below the Tower of London 
are the St. Katherine’s Docks, inclosed by warehouses, over 
which the masts of the larger shipping are observable. The 
London Docks succeed, and in connection with them are 
the wine vaults, in which as many as 65,000 pipes of -svine 
can be stowed. Just past the first entrance to these docks, the 
steamer passes over the Thames Tunnel. On the opposite shore 
is the Grand Surrey Dock, devoted, together with the Com¬ 
mercial and Greenland Docks, to the timber and corn trades. 

A little below the Pool, where the river takes an abrupt 
bend in its course at Limehouse-reach, is one of the entrances 
to the West India Docks, These docks run right across the 
base of the tongue of land called the Isle of Dogs, and open 
into Blackwall-reach; and the crowd of masts seen across 
the pasturage looks like a grove of leafless trees. 

Deptford (on the right hand as you pass down Limehouse- 
reach) was a government dockyard down to 1869. The vic¬ 
tualling department is still maintained here. The steamer 
has scarce passed Deptford when the Seaman’s Hospital-ship, 
the hulk of a 120-gun ship, rears itself out of the water, afibrd- 
iug a noble example of the size and power of a first-rate man-of- 
wai\ This old ship stands as a kind of outwork to Greenwich 
Hospital, whose noble cupolas and double range of colum- 
niated buildings rise just beyond, a worthy dwelling for our 
decayed old naval worthies, and a noble monument of the 
genius of Wren. Few places are more picturesque than 
Greenwich as you descend the river. The old irregularly 


28* § 15. FROM “the pool” TO GRAVESEND. [The Stranger 


built town and the palace-like hospital are backed by the 
rising ground of Greenwich Park with its splendid sweet- 
chestnut trees, and crowned by the Observatory, from w'hich 
place the Saxon race throughout the world marks its longi¬ 
tude. The exact time is shown to the shipping below by 
the fall, every day at one, of a large black ball, which slides 
down a mast surmounting the top of the building ; by this 
means the thousand mariners in the river below have a daily 
opportunity of testing the accuracy of their chronometers. 

Opposite Greenwich are many once busy and noisy Ship¬ 
builder's’ yards, which made the air ring with the din of 
hammer upon iron, now, often silent, owing to unwdse strikes 
of loorking shipwrights in 1866—instigated by the wire-pullers 
of the Trades Unions, and bad times. Here, in the yard of 
the Millioall Company, which employed 4000 men, w’as built 
the Colossus of the sea, “ The Great Eastern Steam Ship,” 
and the Northumberland” iron-cased ship-of-war. In the 
midst of the tongue of laud formed by the bend of the river, 
are the Milhvall Docks. 

Below Greenwich the river for some distance is dull enough, 
low flat shores extending on either side, until Blackwall is 
reached, wdth its Italian-looking railway station, and its 
quay, always in fine weather crowded with people. The 
East India Docks, full of the largest class merchant ships, are 
situated here. Still further down the river is Woolwich 
Arsenal (the largest government ordnance depot), which every 
visitor should see. The river below, and nearly all the 
way to its mouth, lies between flat marshes, over which 
the ships appear sailing across the grass, as in a Dutch 
picture. 

Gravesend, the last towrr on its barrks, is at least 30 miles 
from London; a descriptiorr of it therefore will rrot fall 
withirr our limits : nevertheless an excursion from London- 
bridge to Gravesend affords, at a rapid glance, a notion of 
the vast extent of the commerce of London. 

The number of vessels errtering aud clearing the port of 
Lorldon in one year (1865) amounted to 42,661 ; their ton¬ 
nage to nearly ten and a half millions. The sailing vessels 
belonging to the port average nearly 3000, and the steamers 
350, giving employment to crows of 35,000 men and boys. 
The Customs from this enormous mass of merchandise is 
upwards of eleven millions sterling, or half the receipts from 


lu London.] § 16. HAMPTON COURT TO WESTMINSTER BR. 29 =^^ 

this department for the whole country. The declared value 
of the exports is nearly of a like amount. 

§ 16. To see the Thames in all its pastoral beauty the 
visitor should ascend the stream far beyond the limits of 
the metropolis. The best way of seeing it is to take a 
row-boat downwards, after visiting Hampton Court or Rich¬ 
mond (which he may reach by the line of the South- 
Western Railway). The windings of the river make the 
journey a long one (two hours at least), but the lover of 
beautiful sceneiy and literary and historical associations 
will not regard it as time lost, as he will pass many places 
famous in song and history. At Twickenham he will pass 
Pope’s grotto (the house has been entirely rebuilt), Orleans 
House, the charming seat of the Due d’Aumale, as it was of 
his father the Due d’Orleans, Strawberry-hill, the sham castle 
of Horace Walpole; and Ham House, of the time of James L, 
w^here the “Cabal” ministers of Charles 11. used to meet. 
Richmond Hill and Park, beautifully wooded, crown the 
prospect. The old palace of Sheen, celebrated in the early 
reigns, yet shows some fragments, incoi’porated in a modern 
house, the gi’ounds of whicK come down to the water, just 
below Richmond Bridge, opposite an island planted with 
weeping willows. 

Below Richmond, on the right bank of the river, runs 
Kew Park, once famous as the Farm where George HI. set 
the example of scientific farming to his subjects and country; 
and on the left is Sion House, the grand mansion of the Duke 
of Northumberland, with beautiful gardens. Still further 
down is the charming village of Kew, with its Botanic garden 
and palm-house; Fulham succeeds, with the Bishop of Lon¬ 
don’s Palace, amid verdant meadows and rai’e old trees of the 
densest foliage; but here adieu to the country; smoking 
factories and rows of houses commence, and give to its 
banks a subm’ban character. The Thames so far is com¬ 
paratively clear, running over a gravelly bottom, and 
banked with verdure on either hand. The swans too, 
sailing about in fleets, add to the beauty of the water. 
There are a vast number of these stately birds kept by the 
various City Companies at a great expense : one company 
(the Dyers’) spending 300Z. a year upon their swans. 


30'* § 17. GENERAL HINTS TO STRANGERS. [The Stranger 

On tlie left bauk^ and close to the clumsy old Battersea 
Bridge, are Cremorno Gardens, the nightly resoi’t, in the 
summer, of thousands. At Battersea Bridge begins that noble 
work the Thames Embankment, extending to Blackfriars 
Bridge, 4| miles. Chelsea Hospital, with its high roof, 
and the old Physic ^ Garden, marked by a solitary cedar 
of Lebanon. On the right hand, extends Battersea Park, 
(with walks, cari'iage drives, and terrace running close beside 
the water). Here terminates the open character of the banks, 
which ai’e below this occupied with manufactories orwdthrows 
of houses. Below the Hospital the Pimlico Chain Bridge, and 
a double iron bridge for the passage of the Brighton, Chat¬ 
ham, and Dover, and 4 or 5 other lines to the Victoria or West- 
End Terminus, span the river. At Lambeth the visitor sees 
with interest the antique towers of the Primate’s Palace, and 
old Lambeth Church, rebuilt—all but the tower; and on the 
opposite shore, the Penitentiary, covering a vast extent of 
ground, and looking like a “ cut down ” bastille. In imme¬ 
diate proximity to it is the new quarter of Pimlico, which 
has arisen since 1840, under the hands of the late Mr. Thomas 
Cubitt (d. 1856), the leviathan builder of the Belgravian por¬ 
tion of West-End London, and originally a ship-carpenter. 

§ 17. General Hints to Strangers. 

London should be seen in May, June, and July; three 
months which include what is called “ the Season.” In May, 
the Royal Academy Exhibition opens.—The Court is in resi 
dence.—The Queen or Princess of Wales holds Drawing-rooms 
and Levees.—The Parliament is sitting.—The Opera in full 
season.—Concerts and other public entertainments daily.— 
The town is full—the streets overflow -with equipages. 

There is not a more striking sight in London than the 
bustle of its great streets—the perpetually rolHng tide of 
people, carts, caiTiages, gay equipages, and omnibuses, in its 
great thoroughfares. On Drawing-room and Levee Days it is 
worth while to take your stand in St. James’s-street between 
1 and 2, to see the distinguished personages going to St. 
James’s, their equipages, &c. The Queen and Royal Family 
pass through St. James’s Park usually about 2 and 4. 

At the same time beware of entangling yourself in a 
London Moh. Where crowds collect, there “roughs” and 


in London.] ^ GENERAL HINTS TO STRANGERS. 31 ^' 

pickpockets make tlieir harvest, pinioning, pillaging, and 
often trampling underfoot tlieir luckless vietims. 

Saturday is the aristocratic day for sight-seeing. 

Monday (Saint Monday) is generally a workman’s holiday 

Take the right-hand side of those you meet in walking 
along the streets. 

Beware of mock auctions at shops. 

Brinhing Water supplied by the water companies ought to 
be filtered before it is drunk. So prepared it is now more 
wholesome than the waters of springs and pumps, which are 
liable to the pollution of gas and sewage. 

To find the direction of a “West-End friend” (who is not 
in lodgings), consult Webster’s Royal Red Boole, or Boyle's 
Court Qmde, which, however, give only the names of pereons 
residing in private houses. 

To find the direction of any professional man or trades¬ 
man (possessing a house), consult Kelly's Post-office Directory, 
which is at once an official, street, commercial, trades, 
law, court, parliamentary. City, conveyance, and postal 
directory. The visitor may see it at any hotel or in any of 
the better-class shops. The names and livings of Clergj’^men 
of the Church of England may be found in the annual 
“ Clergy List.” 

Foreign money is not current in England, and any attempt 
to use it will expose the traveller to inconvenience. It 
should be at once exchanged on arriving. Always note 
down the number of English bank notes; if lost or stolen, 
this precaution will be valuable. The hours of business, 
during which all ofiices, counting-houses, &c., are open are 
from 10 to 4. 

The proper hours for calling at private houses are from 2 
to 6 at the “West End.” A letter of introduction should be 
left in person with a card and address, or at least delivered 
with a card by a messenger, and not sent by post. 

The dinner hour in England for the professional and 
upper classes varies from 5 to 8 p.m. Guests should arrive 
not later than a quarter of an hour after the time named, but 
never a minute before it. In England the gentlemen never 
hand the ladies from talle, but remain by themselves. 

When requesting permission to view any of the private 
galleries or mansions, a foreigner had always better write 


^2^ § 17. GENERAL HINTS TO STRANGERS. [The Strangef 

a polite note in the French form and language than in 
English. Foreigners will find that the knowledge of the 
French language is universally, and of the German not 
rarely, diffused from the upper classes downwards, especially 
amongst females and young persons. 

At Haymarket and Covent Garden Italian Operas, gentle¬ 
men are not admitted unless in black or white neckcloths, 
black pantaloons, and dress coats. 

There are some sights peculiarly national, which foreigners 
should not omit to see whilst in London. 

Races. —Epsom and Ascot races take place in May and 
June, and are the great sights of this class. Go to Epsom 
(if not ill your own carriage with four post-horses) outside 
a foui’-horse coach,—the scene on the road is most striking. 
“ The Derly ”—the Isthmian games of England—is the Car¬ 
nival of the Metropolis. For it even Parliament suspends 
its sittings, and the City exchanges are deserted. Then the 
millions of London are exposed unroofed upon the open 
Downs. The race itself—“ the great event,” as it is called 
—will less affect those who are not sporting men than the 
spectacle of the Downs paved with human heads, and the 
miles of pic-nics and feasting which follow it. As these 
races are movable entertainments, consult some I’esident in 
London for the days on which they take place. 

Public Dinners, for various political, social, and charitable 
objects, are always adveidised, and any one may dine who 
will pay for a dinner ticket, generally one guinea. Distin¬ 
guished speakers, and sometimes good vocal music, are the 
attractions. The English peculiarities as to “ toasts,” “ cheer¬ 
ing,” ‘‘speeches,” &c., may here be witnessed to perfection. 

Boat Races and Sailing Matches on the Thames. —In AxMl 
takes place the annual boat I'ace between the Universities of 
Oxford and Cambridge, from Putney to Kew. A steamer 
generally accompanies the best matches, by advertisement, 
and the cutter clubs, pulled by eight “ crack ” amateurs, may 
generally be seen when it is high water in the evening, on 
the Thames, about Putney. 

The Game of Criclcet is best seen at Lord’s Cricket Ground, 
St. John’s Wood Road, Regent’s-park; admission 6d. The 


in London.] § 18. ELECTRIC TELEGRAPH. 33* 

principal “ matches,” such as '‘Kent” against “all England,” 
“Gentlemen” against “Players,” “Oxford” against “ Cam¬ 
bridge,” are generally advertised. The most popular of all, 
Eton against Harrow. Match takes place in July. 

From October to March, hunting is the rage — steeple¬ 
chases in the spring. The “ meets ” are always advertised,and 
often take place (especially those of the “ Queen’s Stag Hounds”) 
near to the railway stations within 20 miles of London. 

An English Trial ly Jury may be seen, during Term time, 
at the Central Criminal Court (Old Bailey) in criminal cases; 
and at Guildhall and \Yestminster Hall. A shilling to a 
doorkeeper will generally secure a good seat. 

Be on your guard about the confusion in the nomenclature 
of London streets, the street branch of the “Post Office 
Directory” a few yeai's ago recorded the existence, in various 
parts of the town, of 37 ICing-streets, 27 Queen-streets, 22 
Princes-streets, and 17 Duke-streets, 35 Chaiies-streets, 29 
John-streets, 15 James-street^, 21 George-streets, besides nu¬ 
merous thoroughfares with the common prefixes Eobert, 
Thomas, Frederick, Charlotte, and Mary. Anomalies also are 
very common:—There are North and South Streets which lie 
east and west, and 10 East-streets and 11 West-streets which 
point to a sufficient variety of directions to box the compass. 
Out of the 24 “New-streets,” many are more than a century 
old. There were no fewer than 18 York-places, 16 York-streets, 
14 Cross-streets, 13 Crown-courts, 19 Park-places, 16 Union- 
streets, 10 Wellington-places, 10 Gloucester-streets, and 13 
Gloucester-places. The suburbs abound in provoking repeti¬ 
tions of streets and terraces bearing the names of “ Victoria” 
and “Albert.” This nuisance, already largely abated, will 
soon cease under the Metropolis Local Management Act. 

§ 18. Telegrayh. — Commissioners. — Cabs. 

The Electric Telegraphs throughout the Kingdom being now 
national property, are managed by the General Post Office : 
the head office being in St. Martin’s-le-Grand, London (see 
General Post Office). More than 300 branch offices are now 
distributed through London, so that no quarter or neigh¬ 
bourhood is far distant from one. By means of the London 
Telegraph messages may be sent in a very short time from 

c 


34* § 18. COMMISSIONERS.—CAB FARES. [The Stranger 

one part of London to another, through nearly 400 miles 
of wires carried over the tops of the houses by leave of the 
inhabitants, and across the principal streets. 

Commissioners, or Messengers, a corps of wounded soldiers,, 
many of whom have lost a limb in the service of their country, 
and bearing good character’s, are authorised by a society ta 
execute commissions, carry letters, parcels, and messages, oir 
a moderate charge of 2d. for ^ a mile, Zd. for 1 mile or more 
than ^ a mile, or Gd. an hour, walking at the rate of 2^ miles 
per hour. They are stationed in the chief thoroughfares at 
the East and West ends of London, and are known by their 
green uniform, and badges and medals. Ladies requiring 
to drive about town in a cab, may take them on the box 
to act the part of servants, with perfect confidence in their 
steadiness. 

The best London messenger is a well-sealed and clearly 
directed penny-post letter. 

Cah Fares. —Obtain at any bookseller’s, price Is., the- 
Red Book of fares, published by the Metropolitan Police 
Commissioners, pursuant to section 6 of Act 16 and 17 Vic¬ 
toria, c. 33. These tables, in case of dispute as to fare, are 
conclusive evidence of all the distances they contain. 
The number of cabs in London is about 5000. A four- 
wheeled cab holds four persons; a Hansom (named from 
the inventor) only two. Each cabman must earn ten shil¬ 
lings a day before he can clear his expenses or obtain a 
penny for himself. The London. public, it is calculated, 
spends 860,OOOZ. a year in cab-hire. 

If you are in a hurry, and want to catch a railway train, 
call a Hansom-cab, promise the man a shilling above his fare, 
if he takes you in time. 

The centre of London (for calculating cab fares) is Charing- 
cross. 

Fares ar-e according to distance or time, at the option of 
the hii’er, expressed at the commencement of the 
hiring ; if not otherwise expressed, the fare according to 
distance. After 8 o’clock in the evening, and before 6 
o’clock in the morning, no driver is compellable to hire 
his carriage for a fare according to time. 

Distance fares for two persons. —Within the i-mile Circle, a 
shilliog for any distance under 2 miles for two persons ; 


§ 18 . CAB FARES. 


in London.] 


35 "' 


Qd. a mile or part of a mile for any distance beyond 2 
miles. 

Beyond the 4-mile circle from Cliaring-cross, Is. a mile for 
every mile or part of a mile exceeding 2. 

Back-fare cannot be claimed. 

The charge for waiting, is sixpence for every quarter of 
an hour completed, for 4-wheeled cabs ; eightpence for 
2-wheeled. 

Time fares for tivo persons. —For any time within, and not 
exceeding, one hour, 2s,, within the 4 mile circle; for 2 
wheel cabs, 2s. 6d. a mile. 

Sixpence for every quarter of an hour, or any part of 
fifteen minutes not completed above one hour. 

Back-fare cannot be claimed. 

"When hired by time, the driver may be required to drive 
at a rate not exceeding four miles an hour. When re¬ 
quired to drive at a greater speed, he is entitled to claim 
6d. a mile, or fragment of a mile, in addition to the 
time fare. 

Distance and time fares for more than two persons. —When 
more than two persons are carried in one cab, an addi¬ 
tional sixpence is to be paid for every additional person 
for the whole hiring. Two children under ten years 
of age counted as one adult. 

For every 15 minutes’ stoppage the driver is entitled to 
6c?. over his distance fare. 

Luggage. —2c?. is to be paid for eveiy package carried out¬ 
side. 

In case of any dispute between hirer and driver, the 
hirer may require the driver to drive to the nearest 
Metropolitan Police Court, or Justice Room, when the 
complaint may be determined by the Sitting Magistrate 
without summons; if no Police Coui’t or Justice Room 
be open at the time, then the hirer may require the 
driver to drive him to the nearest Police Station, where 
the complaint will be entered, and tried by the 
Magistrate at his next sitting. 

Every driver, when hired, may be required to deliver to 
the hirer a card containing the printed number of the 
Stamp Office plate on such carriage, or such other 


36 * 


§ 19 . OMNIBUS ROUTES. 


[The Stranger 


words or figures as the Commissioners of Police may 
direct. 

If you leave any article either in a “bus” or cab, apply 
for it at the Police Office, Scotland-yard. 

§ 19, Omnibus Routes traverse London in all directions 
through the central parts, to and from the extreme suburbs. 
There are about 1500 different omnibuses, employing nearly 
7000 persons. The majority commence I’unning at 8 in the 
morning and continue till 12 at night, succeeding each other 
during the busy parts of the day every five minutes. Most of 
them have two charges—fourpence for part of the distance, 
and sixpence for the whole distance; some charge as low as 
twopence for short distances, and few exceed ninepence for 
the whole journey. It will be well, however, in all cases to 
inquire the fare to the particular spot; wherever there is 
a doubt the conductors will demand the full fare. The 
^‘bus” is subject to the inconvenience of heat and crowd¬ 
ing; and in bad -weather the steam from -wet great coats 
and umbrellas is very oppressive. Add to this, it is not 
unfrequently chosen by pickpockets to carry out their 
operations. The seat on the roof, vulgo, “ the knife-board,” 
is free from those objections, provided you can climb up 
to it, which for females and infirm persons is not possible. 


The Chief Centres from which 

All the Railway Stations. 

The Bank. 

Chai'ing Cross. 

Oxford Street—comer of Tot¬ 
tenham Court Road. 

Oxford Street—Regent Circus. 


Omnibus Routes radiate are— 

Piccadilly—Regent Circus and 
White Horse Cellar. 

Sloane Street. 

Bishopsgate Street. 

Gracechurch Street. 

Angel, Islington. 

Elephant and Castle. 


Starting Points on the Outskirts of London. 

Bayswater —to Whitechapel, by Oxford Street, Holborn. 

Blackwail—to Pimlico (Royal Blue). 

Brampton —to London Bridge. 

Camberwell —from Gracechurch Street, by London Bridge. 

Camberwell—from Camden Town (Waterloo), by Albany Street, Regent 
Street, Charing Cross, and Waterloo Bridge. 

Camden Town —(See York and Albany). 

CArfsea—King’s Road to Bishopsgate Street, by Sloane Street, St. 
Paul’s, Bank. 

Hammersmith and Kensington—to the Bank, by Piccadilly, Strand, St. 
Paul’s, Cheapside. 



in London.] 


19. OMNIBUS ROUTES. 


37# 

Kennington Gate—to King’s Cross, by Blackfriars Road, Fleet Street, 
Gray’s Inn Lane. 

Mother Red Cap —Camden and Kentish Towns, to Bayswater. 
Paddington —by Oxford Street, Holborn, Newgate Street, Cheapside. 
St. John’s Wood. —to the Bank (City Atlas). 

St. John's Wood —to Elephant and Castle, by Baker Street, Regent 
Street, Charing Cross, and Westminster Bridge (Atlas). 

Westmimter —to Highgato Archway (Favourite), by Charing Cross, 
Chancery Lane, Gray’s Inn Road, Islington, Holloway. 

Fori- and Albany —near Zoological Gardens, Regent’s Park, to Cam¬ 
berwell Gate, by Portland Road, Regent Street, Charing Cross, 
and Waterloo Bridge (Waterloo). 

Omnibuses from London to the Environs. 

To Blaclnoall —from Regent Circus, Piccadilly, by Bank. Better by 
Rail, from Fenchurch Street. 

To Brixton —from Gracechurch Street, by London Bridge, Newington 
Causeway, Kennington, Tulse Hill. 

To Brixton —from King’s Cross, by Chancery Lane, Westminster Bridge. 
To Clapham —from Gracechurch Street, by the Borough. 

To Clapham —from Oxford Street (Regent Circus), by Westminster 
Bridge. 

To Cremorne Gardens, Chelsea—from Bank, by Charing Cross, Picca¬ 
dilly, Sloane Street. (N.B. Also by Thames steamers to Upper 
Chelsea Pier.) 

To C)‘ystal Palace, Norwood—from Oxford Street, Charing Cross, 
Westminster Bridge, Kennington, and Brixton. 

To Crystal Palace, Norwood — from Gracechurch Street, City, by 
Brixton or Camberwell, and Dulwich. (Quicker by Rail.) 

To Dulwich —from Gracechurch Sti’eet, London Bridge, every hour. 

To Greenwich —from Charing Cross, by Westminster Bridge. 

To Greenwich —fi’om Gracechurch Street, by London Bridge. 

To Hackney —from the Bank, by Bishopsgate Street, Shoreditch, 
Clapton. 

To Hampstead —from the Bank, by Holbom, Tottenham Court Road. 
To Hampton Court —from St. Paul’s, by Charing Cross, White Horse 
Cellar, Hammersmith, Kew, Richmond, Twickenham (White). 

To Kensal Green Cemetery —from Oxford Street, Edgeware Road. 

To Highgate Hill—irora. Westminster (Favourite), Charing Cross, 
Chancery Lane, Islington. 

To Hoxton —from Leicester Square, by Long Acre. 

To Islington —Bamsbury Park, from Kennington Gate, Blackfriars 
Bridge, St. Paul’s, Post Office, Goswell Road. 

To Islington —from Old Kent Road (Borough), by London Bridge. 

To Putney Bridge — from London Bridge Station, by Fleet Street, Pic¬ 
cadilly, Parson’s Green, Fulham. 

To Richmond —from St. Paul’s, Charing Cross, Piccadilly, Kensing¬ 
ton, Kew Bridge ; also, by Brompton, Putney Bridge, Mortlake. 
To Wimbledon —by Chelsea, Battersea, Wandsworth. 

Horse Tramways. —lu 1870-71, large omnibuses running 
on tramways were introduced into various quarters of Lon¬ 
don and its suburbs, e.rj., from Westminster Bridge along 
the Kent Road to Greenwich:—from Kennington Gate to 
Brixton : from the Angel, Islington, to Finsbury, the Bank, 
and to Highgate Archway: — in Whitechapel, from Aid- 


38 * § 21. HOTELS, ETC. WHEEE TO LODGE. [The Stranger 


gate to Stratford. They are extending on all sides of 
London. 

§ 20. Letters (for distances beyond the London delivery) 
can be posted at the Receiving Houses throughout the 
Metropolis until 5 h. 30m. p.m., or until 6 p.m., with double 
postage stamps attached. (See Post Office, Sect, vii.) 

There are Eight Postal Districts of London and the Chief 
Offices. Letters bearing their initials in addition to the 
address are delivered earlier. 


E.C. Eastern Central. 
W.C. Western Central, 
W. Weste7'n. 

N.W. A^orth Western, 
S.W. Soul^ Weste}-7i, 

S.E. South Eastei'n. 
E. Eastern, 

N. Noi'thei'n, 


St. Martin’s-le-Grand. 

126, High Holborn. 

3, Vere-street, Oxford-street. 
Eversholt-street, Oakley-square. 
Little Charlotte-street, Bucking- 
[ham-gate. 

170, High-street, Southwark. 
Nassau-place, Commei*cial-road. 
Lower-street, Islington. 


In the London District Posts there are 11 deliveries of 
letters daily. Take care to post before \ to 8 , 10, 12, and 
2, 4, 6 , 8 , and in one of the Iron Pillar Boxes (first erected 
1855) on the kerb stones of the leading thoroughfai-es. 

Letters posted at the Receiving-houses in London before 
6 at night are delivered the same evening at all jDlaces within 
a circle of three miles from the General Post Office; or if 
posted before 5, they are delivered in the environs the same 
evening. 

§ 21. Hotels, Inns, tfcc.—The best Hotels at the West End 
of London, are Claridge’s, late Mivart’s, in Brook-street; 
Albemarle, York, and London Hotels, in Albemarle-street; 
Maurigy’s Hotel, Regent-street, of the highest respectability, 
well managed, resort of clergy and gentry; Fenton’s, a very 
comfortable house for families or bachelors, good coffee- 
room, in St. James’s-street; the Clarendon, in Bond-street; 
St. James’s Hotel, Berkeley-street, Piccadilly; and numerous 
other hotels in Jermyn-street, Albemarle-street, and Dover- 
street; the Burlington and Queen’s, in Coi’k-street, all good 
Family Hotels. House-rent iu this quarter is expensive, and 
the terms are accordingly high. 

Long’s Hotel, Bond-street; and Limmer’s, Conduit-street, 
are the resorts chiefly of sporting gentlemen or families. 


4n London.] § 21. WHERE TO LODGE.—HOTELS. 


39 ^ 

Grand Hotels —built expressly for the purpose, in the 
fashion of those in America and the H6tel de Louvre, at 
Paris—have been established at the Termini of the chief 
generally in connection with the Company; and 
in other quarters of London. They have fixed taiifis of 
prices; and Coffee-rooms for ladies as well as for gentlemen. 

At the London and North-Western are the Euston and 
Victoria Hotel.—At King’s Cross, the Great Northern.— 
Great Midland Hotel, Euston-road, near the Great Northern, 
a magnificent Gothic structure of red brick, G. G. Scott, arch. 
—The Great Western Railway Hotel at Paddington is one of 
the largest and the best in London. 

The Westminster Palace Hotel at the end of Victoria- 
street, close to Westminster Abbey and the Houses of Par¬ 
liament, contains 130 bed-rooms. 

The Palace Hotel, close to Buckingham Palace, quiet and 
genteel, for families and gentlemen. 

The Grosvenor Hotel, at the Victoria Station, Pimlico. 

The Alexandra Hotel, Hyde Park Corner. 

The International Hotel, at London Bridge Terminus, 
close to the Dover and Brighton Railway. 

Langham Hotel, Portland-place. 

Charing Cross Hotel at the South Eastern Railway Ter¬ 
minus, Strand. 

Cannon-street Hotel, at the City Terminus of the South 
Eastern Railway. 

Fleming’s Private Hotel, Half-Moon-street, Beattie’s, Dover- 
street, and Rawlins’, Jermyn-street, are recommended. 

Less expensive hotels are Hatchett’s and Bath Hotel, Pic¬ 
cadilly; and as a central house, chiefly for bachelors, the 
Tavistock. 

Midway between the City and the West End are the British, 
in Cockspur-street, the Golden Cross, and Morley’s, at Charing 
Cross. 

Less expensive inns in the City:—The Bridge House 
Hotel, London Bridge; the Queen’s, close to the Post Office, 
and the Castle and Falcon, St. Martin’s-le-Grand; Radley’s, 
10, New Bridge-street, maybe recommended; besides which, 
in St. Paul’s Church-yard and its distinct, are many good and 
respectable hotels. 



[The Stranger 


40 * § 21. WHERE TO LODGE. 

Hotels for Foreigners .—Visitors of distinction will find 
French and German spoken at Claridge’s and the Clarendon. 

To those who wish to be moderate in their expenses, 
we would mention the well-conducted house of M. de 
Keyser (the Eoyal Hotel), New Bridge-street, Blackfriars; 
here eveiy guest must be introduced personally, or by 
letter. 

But the quarter more especially devoted to French and 
German visitors is Leicester-squai'e, and the vicinity of the 
Haymarket. The Hotel de Provence (in Leicester-square), 
is conducted in the Continental style. The Hotel de Ver* 
sailles, 37, Gerrard Street, Soho. 

There are many disreputable houses in this neighbour¬ 
hood, therefore travellers should be cautious not, to resort 
to any without some reliable recommendation. 

Boarding-houses for Foreigners are also numerous around 
Leicester-square. 

The visitor who wishes to make a lengthened stay in the 
Metropolis, will find it most economical to take lodgings. 
These he may get at all prices, from the suite of elegantly 
furnished rooms in the West End, at 4, 7, 10, or 15 guineas 
a week, to the bed-room and use of a breakfast parlour, at 10 
shillings a week. In the West End the best description of 
lodgings are to be found in the streets leading from Piccadilly 
—such as Sackville-street, Dover-street, Half-Moon-street, 
Clarges-street, and Duke-street, and in streets leading out 
of Oxford-street and Kegent-street, St. James’s-street, Jermyn- 
street, Bury-street, and Edng-streot. The best class of 
apartments ai'e those in private houses, let by persons of re¬ 
spectability, generally for the season only. In the windows 
of these houses you ■will probably not see “Apaiiiments to 
Let.” A list of such apartments is to be found, however, at 
the neai’est house-agent, who gives cards to view, and states 
terms. An advertisement in the Times for such rooms, 
stating that ‘‘no lodging-house-keeper need apply,” -will often 
open to the stranger the doors of veiy respectable families, 
where he will get all the quiet and comfort of a home, so 
difficult to be found in the noisy, and often extortionate, 
professed lodging-house. Furnished houses for families can 
always bo obtamed at the West End. 

Those who wish moderate lodgings in a central situation. 


in London.] § 22. WHERE TO DINE AND SUP. 


41 * 

sliould seek for apartments in some of the secondary streets 
leading from the Strand, such as Cecil-street, Craven-street, 
Norfolk-street, Southampton-street, Bedford-street, or the 
Adelphi. Here, in the season, the prices range from 1 to 4 
guineas for a sitting and bedroom. Those again who care not 
for locality will find every quai’ter of the to’wn abounding in 
boarding-houses and lodging-houses, varying in price according 
to the situation. The middle-class visitor who is bent on sight¬ 
seeing should obtain a bedroom in a healthy locality, and the 
use of a breakfast-room. There are thousands of such lodgings 
to be had for half-a-guinea a week. He can either provide his 
breakfast himself or get his landlady to provide it for him. 
The various chop-houses and dining-rooms, of which there are 
nearly 600 in the Metropolis, will supply him with his dinner; 
whilst the 900 coffee-houses will afford him a cheap tea in 
any quai’ter of the town. He may pay a visit, however, to 
the Divan in the Strand, where for Is. he has the entree of a 
handsome room, a cup of coffee and a cigar, and the use of 
newspapers, periodicals, chess, &c. 

§ 22. Restaurants and Dining-rooms : for large public 
or private dinners.— A t the West End —Willis’s Rooms, King- 
street, St. James’s; St. James’s Hall, The Quadrant. In the 
City —The London Tavern, Bishopsgate-street, and the 
Albion Tavern, in Aldersgate-street, first-rate cuisine. 

City dining-houses famous for some particular dish: 

Ship and Turtle, Leadenhall-street, for its turtle. 

“Joe’s,” or “Ned’s,” Finch-lane, Cornhill, for steaks and 
chops served on metal plates. 

The “ Cock,” 201, Fleet-street, for steaks and chops and 
“ snipe kidneys.” 

“ Williams’s Old Bailey Beef Shop,” for boiled beef. 

“Dolly’s,” Queen’s Head Passage, Paternoster-row, a-quiet 
chop-house. 

Oroshy Hall, interesting for its history and Gothic archi¬ 
tecture, Bishopsgate-street (see § xxv.), is now a restaurant, 
and may be safely recommended for its cookery. 

Three Tuns Tavern, Billingsgate Market, is the celebrated 
fish ordinai'y, at 1 and 4 p.m.; charge is Is. 6d., including 
butcher’s meat and cheese. 

“ Perrot’s City Restaurant,” Milk-street, Cheapside, has a 
luncheon bar on the ground floor, and on the first floor chop 
and steak and smoking-rooms; the kitchen being above all. 


42* 


§ 22. WHERE TO DINE AND SUP. [TUc Stranger 

“Salutation,” in Newgate-street, ordinary every day at 5 
o’clock, where you are provided wdth three courses for Is. Qd., 
bread, beer, and cheese included; you are expected, however, 
to take wine or spirits afterwards. 

In Bucklersbury, leading from Cheapside, there are several 
clean and excellent dining-rooms, where you may dine well 
from 8cZ. upwards. These are termed “Dining-rooms,” or 

Eating-houses.” As a general rule it is customary to give 
the waiter Id. if your dinner is under Is., and so on in 
proportion, hut never to exceed 6d. each person. 

The “ Eainbow,” “ Dick’s,” the “ Mitre,” and the “ Cheshire 
Cheese,” in Fleet-street, and “ The London Restaurant,” 
corner of Chancery Lane, are good dining-houses for 
chops, beefsteaks, or joints, and at moderate pi’ices. The 
London is provided with a separate dining-room for ladies. 

European Coffee-house, facing the Mansion-house, is an 
■excellent house. 

Dining Rooms.—Wedward of Temple Bar : 

The “ Pall Mall,” Cockspur Street—very good ; a room 
for ladies. Dinners may be ordered at 6s., 7s., and 10s. a 
head. Todd, Heatly & Co.’s wines supplied. 

“The Criterion,” Piccadilly, Spiers & Pond, 1872. 

St. James's Hall, Piccadilly and Regent’s Quadrant—kept 
by Grieve. 

“ Verrey’s, ” Regent-street, corner of Hanover-street—good 
French cookery and wines. 

“The Burlington” (Blanchard’s), Eegent’s-street, comer of 
New Burlington-streeL 

J^iihn’s, 29, Hanover-street, Regent-street. 

Bertolini’s, St. Martin’s-street, Leicester-square; or Rou- 
get’s. Castle-street, Leicester-square, provide French dinners 
at moderate rates. 

Simpson’s at the Divan Tavern, 103, Strand.—The great 
saloon is fitted up like a French Restauiunt; fresh joints are 
cooked every quarter of an hour, from 5 to 7-30 p.m.; charge, 
•■exclusive of stout or ale, 25. Simpson’s is much frequented, 
and deservedly. 

The “Blue Posts,” in Cork-street, is noted for its good 
plain cooking and its baked punch. 

^ John o’Groat’s, in Rupert-street, is a clean and reasonable 
dining-house. 

The “Albany,” in Piccadilly, good and cheap. Here 
ladies may dine with comfort. The “Scotch Stores,” in 
Oxford-street (the “ Green Man and Still”), good houses, the 
-table-cloth clean, and your dinner, served on metal, costs 
you about 2s. Qd. Clunu’s Hotel in Covent-gai’den is famed 
for its wines. 


ill London.] §§ 22. SUPPER-ROOMS ; 23. THEATRES. 43* 

■Wilton’s, Great Ryder-street, St. James’s. Oysters and 
stout in perfection. 

We&t End Supper-houses. — Cooper’s, opposite Drury-lane 
(already mentioned). 

Rule’s, in Maiden-lane, famous for boned bloaters and 
oysters. 

Evans’s, in Covent-garden;—the HoteEde I’Europe close to 
the Haymai'ket Theatre, and the fish-shops, such as Scott’s, 
Quinn’s, &c., which almost line this street, are much used as 
late supper houses, after the theatres. 

City Supper-houses. —The Cock, the Rainbow, Dick’s, and 
Dr, Johnson’s tavern (all four in or off Fleet-street), are the 
chief houses resorted to after the theatres. 

The stranger who wishes to see City feasting in all its 
glory, should procure an invitation to one of the banquets 
of the City Companies in their own halls. The Goldsmiths’ 
dinners, given in their magnificent hall, behind the General 
Post Office, exhibit a grand display of gold plate. The Fish¬ 
mongers’, Merchant Taylors’, Companies, &c., are famous for 
their cookery, and the antique character of their bills of fare 
—still maintaining the baron of beef, the boar’s-head, the 
swan, the crane, the ruff, and many other delicacies of the 
days of Queen Elizabeth. After these dinners “the loving 
cup ” goes round. In the Carpenters’ Company, the new 
master and wardens are crowned with silver caps at their 
feast; at the Clothworkers’, a grand procession enters after 
dinner. Similar customs prevail at other of the great Com¬ 
panies’ banquets, and all the dinners are first-rate. 

The suburban dining-houses are the Star and Garter, and 
the Castle, at Richmond; Lovegrove’s East India Dock 
Tavern at Blackwall; the Ship (Quartermaine’s), and Tra¬ 
falgar, at Greenwich, and the Ship at Gravesend; these are 
all famous for their white-bait. Crystal Palace Restaurant, 
Sydenham. 

§ 23. There are now more than 30 licensed Theatres 
and Play-houses. The best of these, the nature of the per¬ 
formances, and the number of audience are set out below. 

Her Majesty’s Theatre, Ilaymarket.—Italian Opera (tl.-sed). 

Royal Italian Opera, Covent Garden. L',500. 

Drury-lane TiAatre. 3,800. 

IIaymarket Theatre. —British Drama, Vaudeville, Farce, and Bur¬ 
lesque, 7 p.m. 1,822. 

The Lvceom, or English Opera House, Strand, 7 p.m. 1,490. 
Princess’s, 73, Oxford-street.—British Drama, Spectacles, Melodrama, 
and Farce, 7 p.m. 1,579. 

St. James’s Theatre, King-street, St. James’s.—British Drama, Spec¬ 
tacles, Melodrama, Farce ; with French Plays occasionally. 1,220. 


44* §§ 25, 26. OBJECTS of interest [The stranger 

New Adelpiii, 411, Strand.—Melodrama and Farce. 1,560. 

Olympic Theatre, Wych-street.—Melodrama and Farce. 1,140. 

Strand Theatre, Strand.—Melodrama, Farce, and Burlesque. 1,081, 

The Holbobn Theatre. —Melodrama and Farce. 2,000. 

The Holborn Amphitheatre and Circus—H orsemanship. 2,000. 

New Royalty.— Melodrama, Farce, and Burlesque, 722. 

The Prince of Wales, Tottenham Court Road.—Melodrama, Farce, 
and Burlesque. 814. 

Globe Theatre, Newcastle Street, Strand. 

Gaiety Theatrv, Strand. 

The Queen’s Theatre, Long Acre. 2,0CO. 

Alexandra. —1,330. 

Marylebone, Church-street. 1,500. 

Sadler’s Wells, Islington. 2,800. 

Britannia, Hoxton Old Town.—Melodrama, &c., half-past 6 p.m. 3,923. 

Surrey, Blackfriars-road.—Melodrama, English Opera, and Farce, 7p.m. 
1,800. 

Victoria, Waterloo-road.—Melodrama and Farce. 3,000. 

Astley’s, Bridge-road, Westminster Bridge.—Melodrama, 7 p.m. 3,780. 

Standard, opposite Eastern Counties Railway Stat.—Shoreditch, 4,500. 

Grecian Theatre, City Road.—Melodrama, Farce, and Ballet. 2,120. 

Alhambra, Leicester-square.—Concerts and Ballet, 8 p.m. 

Cremorne Gardens, Chelsea. In summer the gardens open at 3, are 
illuminated at night. Dancing commences at dusk, the whole con¬ 
cluding with Fireworks at 11. Admission. Is. 

§ 24. Miscellaneoiis Exhibitions. 

Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly, opposite Bond-street. 

The Polytechnic Institution, 309, Regent-street, and 5, Cavendish- 
square. Popular science illustrated b^y dissolving views, &c. ; a 
collection of all kinds of curious machinery in motion, and of models, 
&c.; lectures on chemistry, and other scientific subjects, are daily 
given. Open from 11 o’clock till 5 o’clock, and from 7 o’clock till 
10 o’clock. Admission, Is. Mr. Pepper is the popular manager. 

Madame Tussaud’s Wax Works, Baker-street Bazaar, Portman-square. 
The evening is the best time. Admission, Is. Chamber of Horrors, 
&d. extra. Shut 6 to 8 p.m. 

§ 25. Concerts and Music. 

The Two Operas. See sec. xx. 

Concerts of the Philharmonic Society held in St. James’s Hall. 
Apply at Messrs. Addison and Co.’s, 110, Regent-street. 

Sacred Harmonic Society. —Performances of Oratorios, by Handel, 
Haydn, Mendelssohn, &c., in Exeter Hall, from November to July. 

Monday Popular Concerts. —St. James’s Hall, from 8 to lOJ p.m. 

Saturday Popular Concerts, at the same place, commence 3 p.m. 

Concerts at the Royal Albert Hall, S. Kensington; Conductor, Sir 
Michael Costa. 

Musical Union Concerts, held in AVillis’s Rooms, King-street, St. 
James’s. 

Private Concerts, given by celebrated artists, during the season—May, 
June, July. Hanover-square Rooms—Almack’s, St. James’s Hall. 

Ella’s Concerts of Instrumental Music— most scientific and first-rate. 

Anniversary of the Sons of the Clergy, in St. Paul’s Cathedral in 
May. 

Anniversary of the Charity Children of London, beneath the Dome 
of St. Paul’s, the First Thui’sday in June. 

Madrigal, Choral, and Glee Societies, always taking place in the Metro¬ 
polis, of which notice is given in the public papers. 

Concerts, Handel Celebrations, «S:c. at the Crystal Palace, Sydenham. 


in London.] 


TO MUSICIANS, PAINTERS, ETC. 


45 * 


§ 26. Objects of Interest to the Painter and Connoisseur. 


g The Collections thus marked are private, and placed in dwelling-houses, 
a7id can only be seen by special permission of the owners.* 

National Gallery, including the Turner Collections. Free, Monday, 
Tuesday, Wednesday, and Saturday. 

South Kensington Museum, including the Cartoons op Raphael, the 
Sheepshanks and Vernon Gallery of Paintings. 

The National Portrait Gallery, South Kensington. 

§ Bridgewater Gallery, St. James’s. By Tickets only. 

§ Grosvenor Gallery (Lord Westminster’s), Upper Grosvcnor-street. 
By Tickets, in May, June, and July. 

Duke op Sutherland’s Pictures by Murillo, Van Dyck, and P. Dela- 
roche. 

§ Duke op Bedford’s Dutch Pictures, 6, Belgrave-square. 

§ The Correggio (Christ in the Garden), and other pictures, at Apsley 
House. 

§ The Van Dyck Portraits and Sketches (en gi’isaille), fine Cana- 
letti (View of Whitehall), at Montague House, 
g Duke of Grafton’s Van Dyck, of Charles I. standing by his horse. 
The Holbein, at Barber-Surgeons’ Hall, Monkwell-street, City. 

§ Titian’s Cornaro Family, at Northumberland House; to be seen by 
an order from the Duke of Northumberland only. 

Rubens’s Ceiling, in Inigo Jones’s Banqueting House (now the Chapel 
Royal), at Whitehall. May be seen on Sunday morning after 
divine service. 

Old Masters and Diploma Pictures, at the Royal Academy. Write 
to the Keeper of the Royal Academy. 

The Hogarths and Canalettis, at the Soane Museum in Lincolu’s- 
Inn-fields. 

The Hogarths, at the Foundling Hospital, Lincoln’s Inn Hall, and St. 
Bartholomew’s Hospital. 

The Three Sir Joshua Reynolds’ of the Dilettanti Society, at Willis’s 
Rooms, King street, St. James’s, 
g The Van Dycks, at Earl de Grey’s, in St. James’s-square. 

The Portraits in the British Museum, 
g Lord Lansdowne’s Collection, Lansdoivrie House. 

Barry’s Pictures at the Society of Arts, Adelphi. 

The Pictures in the Painted Hall, Greenwich Hospital, 
g The Duke of Devonshire’s Gallery, Piccadilly. 

^ Lord Ashburton’s Collection, at Bath House, Piccadilly. 

Lord Dudley’s Collection, Park-lane, 
g Mr. Wallace’s Collection, Manchester Square, 
g Lord Normanton’s Collection. 

g Baron Rothschild’s Murillo (Infant Saviour), at Gunnersbury, five 
miles from Hyde-Park-corner. 

g R. S. Holfokd’s Collection, at Dorchester House, Park-lane, 
g Pool of Bethesda, by Murillo, at George Tomline’s, Esq., No. 1, 
Carlton-House-terrace. 

Private Collections of the late H. A. J. Munro, Hamilton-place, 
Piccadilly; of Thomas Baring, Esq., M.P., 41, Upper Grosvenor- 
street; of Mrs. Gibbons, No. 17, Hanover-terrace, Regent’s Park. 


• These Collections are fully and satisfactorily described in Waagen’s 
Treasures of Art in Britain,” 1854. 



46 * §§ 27, 28. OBJECTS OF INTEREST TO THE [The Stranger 


Dulwich Galleuy, daily, except Sundays, 10 to 5. (See Dulwich.) 
Picture Gallery at Hampton Court, daily, except Friday. 
Pictures by Rubens, Van Dyck, &c., at Windsor. 


Temporary Exhibitions 0 / Modem Pictures. 

Royal Academy of Arts, Burlington House, Piccadilly. The Annual 
Exhibition of New Works of the best living English Artists, is open 
to the public daily from the fii’st Monday in May till the end of 
July. Admission, Is.; Catalogue, Is. If you wish to see the pictures, 
go early, before 11. 

Royal Academy, Piccadilly, Exhibition r.f Works cf Old Masters, 
lent by their owners, open in March and April. 

Society op British Artists, exhibiting between 500 and 600 pictures 
annually, at Suffolk-street, Charing Cross. Admission, Is., open 
Api-il to July. 

Society of Painters in Water Colours, Pall-mall East. Admission, 
Is., open April to August. Catalogue, Qd. 

Institute of Painters in Water Colours, Pall-mall. Admission, Is., 
open April to August. Catalogue, Gd. 

Pictures op French Artists; Gallery, Pall-mall, in the summer 
months. 


Duiing the London season (April, May, and June) the 
Connoisseur should make a point of occasionally dropping in 
at the Auction Rooms of Chidstie and Manson, in King-street, 
St. James’s-square; and of Sotheby and Wilkinson, Welling- 
ton-street, Strand. 


§ 27. Objects of Interest to the Sculptor. 

The Nineveh, Elgin, Phigalian, Toavnley, and other Marbles 
in the British Museum. 

Bas-relief, by Michael Angelo, at the Royal Academy. Write to the 
Keeper of the Royal Academy. 

Flaxman’s Models at University College, in Gower-street. On Satur¬ 
day. Tickets given at the Lodge. 

The Monumental Sculpture in St. Paul’s and Westminster Abbey. 

Statue op Charles I., by Le Smur, at Charing-cross. 

Statue of James II., by Grinling Gibbons, behind Wliitehall. 

g Two Fine Statues, by Canova, at Gunnersbury (five miles from Hyde- 
Park-coraer), seat of Baron Lionel de Rothschild, M.P. 

Tub several Statues in the Squares and public Places— Pitt, by 
Chantrey, in Hanover-square; Fox, by Westmacott, in Blooms- 
bury-square; Canning, by Westmacott, near Westminster Hall; 
George III., by Wyatt, inCockspur-street; George IV., by Chan¬ 
trey, in Trafalgar-square; Duke of Wellington before the Royal 
Exchange, by Chantrey, and at Hyde-Park-comer, by Wyatt, &c. &c. 

The Italian and other Sculpture in the S. Kensington Museum, 
including Two Statues of Madness and Melancholy, by Cibber, 
brought from Bethlehem Hospital. 


in London.] SCULPTOR, ARCHITECT, AND ENGINEER. 47 * 

g Marbles at Lansdowne House, in Eerkeley-square, the residence of the; 
Marquis of Lansdowne. 


§ 28. Objects of Interest to 

Nobmax akd Gothic. 

— The Norman Chapel, in the 

Tower. 

The Norman Crypt, under the 
church of St. Mary-le-Bow. 

St. Bartholomew - the - Great, 
Smithfield, the oldest church in 
London. 

St. Mary Overy, Lon Ion Bridge. 
Westminster Abbey and Hall. 

St. Michael’s, Comhill. 

Temple Church. 

Dutch Church, Austin Friars. 

Ely Place Chapel. 

Crypt at Guildhall. 

Crypt at St. John’s, Clerkenwell. 
Allhallows, Barking. 

St. Olave’s, Hart-street. 

Crosby Hall, Bishopsgate-street, 
built 1466-1472. 

Savoy Chapel. 

St. John’s Gate, Clerkenwell. 
Lambeth Palace — (Chapel and 
Hall, and Lollards’ Tower). 

Renaissance : 

Holland House, Kensington. 

Works, by Inigo Jones: 
Banqueting House, Whitehall. 
St. Paul’s, Covent-garden. 
Shaftesbury House, Aldersgate- 
street. 

Lindsey House, Lincoln’s-Inn- 
fields (West side). 

Ashbumham House Cloisters, 
Westminster. 

Lincoln’s Inn Chapel. 

St. Catheidne Cree—(part only). 
Piazza, Covent-garden. 

By Sir Christopher Wren : 

— St. Paul’s Cathedral. 

St. Stephen’s, Walbrook. 

St. Mary-le-Bow, in Cheapside. 

St. Bride’s, Fleet-street. 

St. Magnus, London Bridge. 

St. James’s, Piccadilly. 

Spire of St. Dunstan’s-in-the- 
East. 

St. Mary Aldermary. 

St. Michael’s, Comhill. cc 


the Architect and Engineer. 

Towers of S t.Vedast, St. Antholin,. 
and St. ]Margaret Pattens. 

By Gibbs : 

St. Martin-in-the-Fields. 

St. Mary-le-Strand. 

By Hawksmoor (Wren’s pupil): 
St. Mary Woolnoth, near the- 
Mansion House. 

Christ Church, Spitalfields. 

St. George’s, Bloomsbury. 
Limehouse Church. 

By Lord Burlington : 

- Burlington House. 

Duke of Devonshire’s Villa at 
Chiswick. 

By Sir William Chambers: 

. Somerset House. 

By Kent : 

Marquis of Bath’s House, No. 44, 
Berkeley-square. 

By Dance (Senior) : 

The Mansion House. 

By Dance (Junior): 

"' Newgate. 

By John Rennie : 

Waterloo Bridge. 

By Sir John Soane: 

—Bank of England. 

By Nash : 

Regent-street. 

- Buckingham Palace (east front 

excepted, which is by Blore). 

By Decimus Burton : 
---Athenaeum Club, Pall-mall. 

Colosseum, in the Regent’s Park, 
_Gateways at Hyde-Park-corner. 

By Philip Hardwick (and Son) 
Goldsmiths’ Hall. 

-- Lincoln’s Inn Hall. 

Euston-square RailwayTerminus 

By Sir Robert Smirke: 

British Museum. 

■ Post Office. 



48 * § 29. OBJECTS OF INTEREST TO ANTIQUARY. [The Stranger 


By Sib Chaeles Barry : 

-Houses of Parliament. 

Kefonn Club, Pall-mall. 
Travellers’ Club, Pall-mall. 
Treasury, Whitehall. 
Bridgewater House. 

By Sydney Smirke, A.R.A. : 

--- Carlton Club-house. 

Conservative Club-house. 

Interior of Pantheon. 

By G.G. Scott, A.R.A.: 
Camberwell Church. 

The Government Offices, Down¬ 
ing Street, St. James’s Park. 
Prince Consort’s Monument. „ 
By Benjamin Ferrey : 

St. Stephen’s Church, Rochester- 
row, Westminster. ^ 

By Edmund Street: 

St. James the Less Church, Gar¬ 
den Street, Vauxhall Road. 
New Law Courts. 


By Butterfield : 

All Saints’, Margaret-street, Ca¬ 
vendish-square. 

By Carpenter : 

St. Mary Magdalen, Munster- 
square. 

By Messrs. Raphael, Brandon’ 
AND Robert Ritchie ; 

Catholic and Apostolic [or Irving- 
itej Church, Gordon-square. 

By Pennithorne: 

--^Loudon University, Burlington- 
gardens. 

- The Stations of the great Rail¬ 
ways, viz.. Great Westera, 
North Western, Great North¬ 
ern, South Eastern, Victoria 
Midland Counties, &c. 


§ 29. Objects of Interest to the Antiquary. 

The British Museum. 

The Tower. White Tower and Chapel, Armoury, Regalia.' 

Westminster Abbey, and Chapter House. 

The Remains of London Wall, in St. Martin’s-court, off Ludgate-hill. 

London Stone, inserted in the outer wall of the church of St. Swithin 
in Cannon-street. The top is seen through an oval opening. 
Camden considers it to have been the central Milliarium, or mile¬ 
stone, similar to that in the Forum at Rome, from which the 
British high roads radiated, and from which the distances on them 
were reckoned. It is a block of Kentish Rag (Loiver Greensand), 
encased in a frame of Bath stone. Jack Cade struck London Stone 
with his staff, exclaiming, “ Now is Mortimer lord of this City.” 

The Collection at the City of London Library, at Guildhall. 

The Roman Bath under the Coal Exchange, at Billingsgate. 

The Museum of the Society of Antiquaries, at New Burlington 
House. Write to the Secretary, for permission.. 

The Gothic Churches named in p. 47*. 

St. John’s Gate, Clerkenwell. 

Stained-glass Window, in St. Margaret’s, Westminster. 

Monument of Camden, in Westminster Abbey. 

Monument of Stow, in St. Andrew’s Undershaft, Leadenhall-street. 

g The China (especially Faience of Henri II.) of Sib Anthony de 
Rothschild, Bart., 2, Grosvenor-place Houses. 

South Kensington Museum. Collection of Italian and other sculpture, 
wood carvings, majolica, ivories, metal work, embroidery, &c., free. 
(See Sect, xix.) 

§ 30. Places and Sights, Museums, <S:c., which a Stranger 

must see. 

The Tower, daily, Sundays excepted, 10 to 4, charge Is. 

Westminster Abbfa', to be seen daily, Sundays excepted. 

St. Paul’s Cathedral, dailj", Sundays excepted. 

British Museum, Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, 10 to 4. 



in London.] § 30. PLACES AND SIGHTS TO BE SEEN. 


49 




National Gallery, free, Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and 
Saturdays. 

Houses op Parliament. Saturday, between 10 and 4. Tickets are to 
be obtained by all respectable applicants (gratis), at the Lord Great 
Chamberlain’s office, in the Court, near the Victoria Tower. 

Westminster Hall. * 

South Kensington Museum. Mondays, Tuesdays, and Saturdays. 

St. James’s Park and Palace. 

Lambeth Palace, to be seen by order from the Archbp. of Canterbury. 

Hyde Park, Kotten Row, and the Serpentine Drive, from 12 to 2, 
and 5 to 7 p.m., from May to July inclusive. 

Kensington Gardens, between ^ past 5 and J past 6 in May and June. 
The band plays Tuesdays and Fridays. 

WhitehaIiL Banqueting House, in front of which Charles I. was be¬ 
headed. 

Thames and its quays between Chelsea and Greenwich. 

Charing Cross and Charles I.’s Statue. 

Waterloo Bridge. 

Thames Tunnel. In July, 1869, it was permanently closed as a foot¬ 
way, and opened to the trains of the East London Railway, which 
connects Wappingand Shadwell with Southwark Park. 

London Docks. 

Metropolitan Cattle Market (the modern Smithfield); to see the 
market, go early on a Monday. 

CovENT-GARDEN MARKET; go ou a Saturdaymomiugearly. 

London Stone. (Described above.) 

Temple Bar and St. John’s Gate. 

The Monument, to commemorate the Fire of London in 1666, open 
daily, Sundays excepted, admission Sd. 

Old Priory Church of St. Bartholomew in Smithfield. 

Temple Church, Sunday morning service at 11; afternoon service at 
3. A Benclier’s order, or personal introduction, will admit you to 
the best seats. From Monday to Friday inclusive the church may 
be seen on applying to the sexton. 

! (Wren-s Masterpiece,.) 

Zoological Gardens, Regent’s Park. 

Royal Horticultural Gardens, South Kensington. 

Goldsmiths’ Hall. 

Soane Museum, Lincoln’s Inn Fields. 

Royal Exchange. 

Bank of England. 10 to 3, Any one may walk through the chief halls. 

The Mint. Shown on Thursday by Ticket from the deputy-master. 

Christ’s Hospital, the boys supping in public every Sunday evening 
from Quinquagesima Sunday to Easter Sunday inclusive 

Museum of the College of Surgeons. (For men of science.) 

Allsopp and Sons’ Burton Ale Warehouses, Upper James-street, 
Camden Town. 

Bass’s Ditto, Midland Railway Terminus. 

Barclay’s Brewery, in Southwark, near London Bridge, is to be seen 
by order from the Messrs. Barclay. 

Times • Newspaper Office, Printing-house-square, Blackfriars, to be 


• The Times usually comprises 72 columns, or 17,500 lines—contain¬ 
ing more than a million different pieces of type. More marvellous 
still, two-fifths of the matter of which the type is the exponent, was 
unwritten at seven o’clock on the previous evening. The number of 

d 



[The Stranger 


50 ^' § 32. HINTS TO FOREIGNERS, ETC. 

seen by order signed by the printer of the paper. The office of this 
world-famous Paper is placed in one of the most labyrinthine recesses 
in London. 

Clowes’ s Printing Office, Stamford-street, Blackfriars, to be seen by ' 
order from Messrs. Clowes & Son. 

Lord’s Cricket-Ground, near the Eyre Arms, St. John’s Wood, when 
a match is being played. 

Museum of Practical Geology, and of the Mineral Productions of 
Great Britain and her Colonies, in Piccadilly, entrance in Jermyn- 
street. 

United Service Museum, at Whitehall. 

East India Museum, Indian Office, Downing-street. Fridays, from 
10 to 4. Products of India, and other curiosities. 

London Bridge, about J past 9 in the morning, when it is most crowded 
with passengers, all pushing into the City on business; or at J past 
4 and 5 p.m. 

Westminster Bridge. Best point of view for the Houses of Parliament. 

The Opening of Parliament, generally in February, and its proroga¬ 
tion, generally in July. 

The Horticultural FIites at the Royal Botanic Gardens, 1 May. 
Regent’s Park; and at the Royal Horticultural Society’s > June. 
Garden, South Kensington. J July. 

The Thames Embankment, from Westminster Bridge, and Thames. 

The Great Halls of the London and North-Westeni, Midland and Gt. 
Northern Terminus, Euston-road. 

The Post Office Arcade, St. Martin’s-le-Grand, at 6 o’clock on Satur¬ 
days, when the grand rush to post newspapers takes place. To 
see the sorting process immediately after, an order from the secretary 
to the G.P.O. is necessary, and is granted only on application of 
foreign ministers, &c. 

The Inner Temple Gardens. 

The Bank of England Cellars, and Machines for weighing coin 
and printing bank-notes, by order from a Director. 

The Long Room in the Custom House. 


For Equestrians. —Bides in the neighbourhood of London —Besides the 
Parks—Hyde Park, Green Park, and Regent’s Paik. 
a. The Finchley Road — from St. John’s Wood to Hampstead 
Heath, and Highgate. 

h. Battersea Park—a terrace ride, partly by the side of the river, 
thence to Clapham Common. 

c. By Hyde Park—Kensington, Hammersmith, Barnes Common, 

Roehampton-lane, Wimbledon Common—return throush Wim¬ 
bledon Park (Somerset-road), Wandsworth, and Battersea Park. 

d. Along Finchley-road to West End—Kilburn to Kensal-green, 

return by Harrow-road. 

§ 31. ENVIRONS OF LONDON. {See the end of this volume.) 

§ 32. HINTS TO FOREIGNERS. 

By the law of Great Britain all foreigners have unrestricted right of 
entrance and residence in this country; and while they remain in 
it, are, equally with British subjects, under the protection of the law; 
nor can they be punished except for an offence against the law, and 


compositors employed is 110, and the number of pressmen 25. The 
Tmes prints 200 sheets a minute. 


t 




in London.] § 34. SPECIAL SERVICES.—§ 35. STUDIOS. 51^ 

under the sentence of the ordinary tribunals of justice, after a public 
trial, and on a conviction founded on evidence given in open Court. No 
foreigners, as such, can be sent out of this country by the Executive 
Government, except persons removed by virtue of treaties with other 
States, confirmed by Act of Parliament, for the mutual surrender of 
criminal offenders. 

Foreigners may obtain admission in general to private collections 
not usually shown, by applying from their several ambassadors or 
ministers to the owner. Such an ambassadorial request will also 
procure for foreigner’s entrance to the Royal Dockyards, Woolwich 
Arsenal, &c. 

§ 33. NEWSPAPERS. 

The principal London morning newspapers are the Times, published 
daily (Sunday excepted), Office, Printing House-square, Blackfriars; the 
Daily News ; the Standard; the Daily TelegrcLph ; the Morning Post, 
aud the Morning Advertiser. For evening news see the SecondEdition 
of the Times, the Pall-mall^ Gazette, the Globe, the Evening Standard, and 
the Echo, price \d. 


§ 31. SPECIAL SUNDAY EVENING SERVICES AND 
POPULAR PREACHERS. 


o.,, p „ • ’) Services of the Church of Eng- 

wksTMixsTKE Abbey, | 

Lincoln’s Inn Chapel. 

The Temple. 

Whitehall.—Preachers appointed by the Queen—Special Preachers 
during Lent: Selected Divines from Oxford and Cambridge. 

All Saints’, Margaret-street. 

Scotch Church, Drury-lane.—Rev. Dr. Cumming at 11 a.m. and 7 p.m. 

Foundling Hospital. —Good music. After service, visitors may see 
the children at their dinner. 


St. James’s Hall, Piccadilly (Nonconformist). 

Mr. Spurgeon’s Tabernacle, close to the Elephant and Castle, a vast 
building of Italian architecture, with porticos, cost, including 
the land, £31,000, raised by voluntary subscription, 1860-61. It will 
hold 4400 persons. Architect W. W. Pocock. Tickets admitting 
one person for three months cost 3s. In front of the pulpit is a 
marble bath, for adult baptism. Ingress to the building is attained 
through 15 doors. 

§ 35. STUDIOS OF THE PRINCIPAL ARTISTS. 


painters. 

Sir Edwin Landseer, R.A. 1, St. John’s-wood-road. 

Sir Francis Grant, F.R.A. 27, Sussex-place, Regent’s-park. 

C. W. Cope, R.A. 19, Hyde-park-gate South. 

J. R. Herbert. Hampstead. 

W. P. Frith, R.A. 7, Pembridge-villas, Bayswater. 

E. M. Ward, R.A. 1, Kent-villas, Lansdowne-road, 

’ • Notting-hill. 

E. W. Cooke, R.A. Kensington and Groombridge. 

J. E. Millais . Cromwell Terrace, S. Kensington. 

S. Watts... Little Holland House Kensington 










§ 36. METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. LThc ijirai.ger 


“ 2 ^ 


SCULPTOES. 

Foley, E.A. 10, Osnaburgh-terrace. 

Noble. Bruton-street, Bond-street.’ 

W. C. Marshall .47, Ebnry-street, Eaton-square. 

P. M'Dowell, R.A. 74 a,M argaret-sti’eet, Cavendish-square. 

Theed. 12, Henrietta-street, Cavendish-square. 

§36. METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. 

The Metropolitan Board of Works was constituted by an Act of 
Parliament in 1855, superseding numerous local boards, to watch over 
the various lines of communication between different parts of London ; 
to open new avenues in proportion to the increase of traffic; to manage 
the streets, drains, and buildings; and to suggest and carry out im¬ 
provements in all these. The Board consists of 40 members, elected 
by the ratepayers. TheBoaid has an office, where meetings are held, at 
Berkeley House, Spring Gardens, a handsome edifice erected for the 
purpose, 1861, at a cost of £15,000. Funds are raised by a rate on the 
property of London, of which the annual value is £18,719,000. The 
principal schemes hitherto undertaken by the Board is the new system 
of Main Drainage (see Index). The Embankment of the Thames (see 
Section vi.) Holborn Valley Viaduct; the opening of Ilamilton-place to 
carriage traffic, as a means of relieving Park-lane, at a cost of 109,0001.; 
finishing of Southwark-street, Borough, 596,7011.; Victona Park Approaches, 
43,430i.; Chelsea Embankment, 106,0001.; Albert Embankment, S. side of 
Thames, 909,OOOL; WhitechapeUstreet, 175,0001. Eew Blackfviars Bridge. 

A broad avenue from Charing Cross, through Leicester-square to Ox¬ 
ford-street and Euston-road and square. 

Vic'oria street fitova the Mansion House to Blackfriars Bridge, has laid 
open to view St. Paul’s, the churches of St. Antholin (Budge-row), and 
St. Mary Aldermary, both fine works of Wren. 

METROPOLITAN AND SUBURBAN RAILWAYS. 

London is now encircled by a girdle of railways : indeed, very shortly 
it will have a double circle of ironways, chiefly underground, facili¬ 
tating communication with all quarters. 

A. Metropolitan or Underground Railway, from Paddington to Far- 
ringdon Street, was designed to relieve the streets of London from 
excessive goods traffic. The Corporation subscribed £200,000 to the 
undertaking on this account. It runs on a level with or below the 
gas-pipes and water-mains, and has been called “ the Railway of the 
Rats,” the companion of sewers. It consists of 3^ miles of tunnels 
and cuttings from Paddington to Farringdon Street and Moorgate, 
running under the New Road and other great thoroughfares. 
Travelling in the dark by this line is by no means disagreeable. 
The carriages are good and well lighted, and the stations conveni¬ 
ent. The engines used condense their steam, and, using coke, there 
is little escape of either smoke or vapour. Engineer, Mr. John 
Fowler—Cost, £1,300,000. The first year it carried 9^ million pas¬ 
sengers, and in 1869, 40 millions. 






in London,] METROPOLITAN AND SUBURBAN RAILWAYS. 53 * 

Trains from 6 a.m. to 12 p.m., at intervals of 20 minutes or i hour. 
It begins at 

Bishop's Road Station, Paddington, near the Great Western 
Terminus, Kensington Gardens, Bayswater. 

Edgeware Road Sta., Praed-street. 

Baker-street Sta., near to Regent’s Park, W., The Bazaar, Mad. 
Tussaud. 

Portland Road Sta., close to Regent’s Park. 

Gower-street Road Sta., near London and North-Western Railway 
Terminus, Euston Square. 

King's Cross Sta .—Junction with Great Northern Terminus. 

The Fleet Ditch sewer is carried in a water-tight iron duct over 
the line. Open cuttings now begin, but Coldbath Fields Prison is 
passed in a tunnel. 

Farringdon Street Junction Sta., not far from Holhom and Snow 
11)11. From this the line is prolonged to meet the Chatham and 
Dover Railway at the Ludgate Hill Sta. 

From Farringdon Street, the line is carried near Smithfield, and 
under Barbican and Milton Street, to 

Aldersgate Sta., near the General Post Office, and to 

Moobgatk Street Sta., near the Bank, the Royal Exchange 
and Finsbury. 


B. Charing Cross to Cannon Street, City, and London Bridge- 
South-eastern Railway. 

Terminus and Hotel, W. Strand, between Villiers-street and 
Craven-street, on the site of Hungerford Market. This station is 
450 ft. long, 170 ft. wide, 100 ft. high. The railway crosses the 
Thames by a Lattice Bridge, on cast-iron columns, spans of 154 ft. 
Junction with S. Western Railway at Waterloo Station. 

Waterloo Sta., close to the Waterloo Terminus of the S. Western 
Railway. 

The line passes under the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, 
coming from Elephant and Castle to Ludgate Hill. It traverses 
the former estate of the Bishop of Winchester, Iron works, &c. &c., 
Messrs. Potts’ Vinegar-yard, on 1. lie, Southwark Bridge, Union 
Square. 

L. Branch over the Thames by a Lattice Bridge, 5 spans, opened 
1866, leads to Cannon Street Terminus, near St. Paul’s and Man¬ 
sion House. 

'The cost of this line is calculated at £1000 per yard, including 
the two bridges and stations, not much less than 3,000,000/. 

The London Bridge Branch is carried by a Lattice Bridge, over the 
new Street, Southwark ; 1. Barclay and Perkins’ Brewery, through 
Borough Market, passing St. Mary Overy church and over Bridge- 
street, Southwark, 

London Bridge Terminus.— In order to secure an approach to 
London Bridge, the South-Eastern Railway Company was obliged 
to purchase the building and site of St. Thomas’s Hospital, at an 
outlay of 300,000/. 



54* METROPOLITAN AND SUBURBAN RAILWAYS. [The Stranger 


C. West London, Hammersmith, 

Finchley Rond Sta. 

St. John's IFood Sta. 

Baher Street Junct. Sta. 

Edgeware Road, Paddington, Sta. 
Bishop's Road, Paddington, Sta, 
Westboume Park Sta. 

Notting Hill Sta. 

Shepherd’s Bush Sta. 


AND Metropolitan, Railways. 

Hammersmith {Broadway) Sta. 
Kensington Sta., W. of Holland 
House, in Addison Road. 
Chelsea Sta., close to Fulham-rd. 
Cross the Thames —Battersea Sta. 
Clapham Junction Sta. 

Victoria Sta, 


D. North London, Hampstead Junction, and North and South- 
Western Junction Railways. Trains every i hour. 


Broad Street { City) Terminus. 
Shoreditch Sta. 

Haggerston Sta, 

Dalston Sta. 


Fenchurch Street Sta. 
Stepney Junct. Sta. 
Bow Sta. 

Hackney Sta. 

Victoria Park Sta. 


Kingsland Road Sta. 

Mildmay Park (Stoke Newington) 
Sta. 


Highbury and Islington Sta. 
Caledonian Road Sta. 

Camden Town J unct. 

Chalk Farm Sta. 

Kentish Town Sta. 

Hampstead Sta. 

Finchley Road Sta. 

Edgeware Road {Kilburn) Sta. 
Harlesden Green Sta. 

Hammersmith Sta. {Botanic Gar¬ 
dens Kew Road) 

Acton Sta. 


E. London and Blackwall Railway. 

Fenchurch Street Term. East and West India Docks Sta. 

Skadwell Sta. ' Poplar Sta. 

Stepney Junction of N. London Sta. Blackwall Junct. Sta. 

Limehouse Sta. 


F. Victoria Station, Pimlico to Ludgate Hill —branch of London 
Chatham and Dover Railway. 


Battersea Park Sta, 

Stewart's Lane Sta. 
Wandsworth Road Sta. 
Clapham and N. Stockwell Sta. 
Brixton and S. Stockwell Sta. 
Loughborough Road Sta. 
Camberwell New Road Sta. 


Walworth Road Sta. 

Elephant and Castle Sta. 

Borough Road Sta. 

Blackfriars Bridge Sta. 

Cross the Thames. 

Ludgate Hill. Tei'niinus in 
Bridge-street. 


O. Metropolitan District Railway, from Mansion House to Padding¬ 
ton by Blackfriars' Bridge, Westminster Bridge, Victoria Sta., S. Ken¬ 
sington, and Bayswater. The Mansion House terminus, and the part 
of the line thence to Blackfriars was opened 1871. 

This line forms an Inner Circle Railway from Mansion House- 
street, to Blackfriars Bridge, and along the Thames Embankment 
to Westminster Bridge and Paddington. 

At Blackfriars Bridge station the railway is carried over the Fleet 
Ditch, which enters the Thames through valves and penstocks over 
the low level main sewers, and under by the coal tramway leading 
to the City gas-works. 







in London.] METROPOLITAN AND SUBURBAN RAILWAYS. 55* 


The sleepers are laid on a layer of tan,.six inches thick, to spare 
the slumbers of the Templars as it approaches. 

Temple Station. 

Charing Cross Sta. under Hungerford Bridge. 

The portion of the line opened 1869 commences at 

Westminster Bridge Sta., at the extremity of the Embankment. 
Thence it passes under Bridge-street, behind Westminster Palace 
Hotel, to 

St. James's Park Sta., Broadway, close to Birdcage Walk. It 
passes under part of Watney’s Brewery to 

Victoria Sta., close to the Terminus of the Brighton, Crystal 
Palace, and other Lines. 

Sloane Square Sta., under Ranelagh Sewer, which is carried 
obliquely across on iron cylinders. 

South Kensington Sta., Cromwell-road. Two minutes’ walk to the 
South Kensington Museum. 

Brompton Sta., Gloucester Road. Here this line joins the Metro¬ 
politan. 

The line is prolonged to 

High Street, Kensington, Sta. 

Addison Boad Sta. 

Notting Hill Gate Sta. 

Queen's Road, Bayswater, Sta., near the Royal Oak Tavern, and 
Kensington Gardens. 

Paddington Sta., opposite the Great Western Hotel and Terminus. 


H. Metropolitan and St. John’s Wood RxAilwat. 2 m. 

Terminus in Baker Street. In C. 

St. John's Wood Sta. 

Marlborough Road Sta., close to Eyre Arms. 

Queen's Road Sta., close to Swiss Cottage. Within 1 mile of 
Hampstead, across helds. 


I. Waterloo to Kew Gardens and Richmond, from Waterloo 
terminus of L. & S. W. Railway, | hour. 


Vauxhall Sta. 

Battersea Sta., in C. 

Chelsea Sta., in C. 

West Brompton Sta. 

Kensington (Addisooi Road) Sta. 
Hammersmith {Grove Road) Sta. 
Tumham Green Sta. 


Brentford Rd. Sta., cross Thames. 
Kew Gardens Sta., close to the New 
Cumberland Gate of the Botanic 
Gardens, on the road from Kew 
to Richmond. 

Richmond New Sta. 


K. East London Railway commences at the Wapping end of The 
Thames Tunnel, runs through it to 
Rotherhithe Sta., [near which a branch goes to the New Cross 
station of the N. Kent and Brighton lines]. 

Old Kent Road Sta., Deptford, on S. London Railway. It crosses 
the Surrey Canal. 





ERRATA. 


P. 41*, deU Williams’ Old Bailey Beef-shop. Closed. 

,, ,, Radley’s Hotel is pulled down. 

P. 27*, Deptford Dockyard is in part turned into a Foreign Cattle 
Market. ' 

P. 274, dei«,Thatched House. 




MODERN LONDON 


II.-PALACES OF THE SOVEREIGN AND ROYAL 
FAMILY. 

The Town Palaces of tlio Sovereign are Buckingham Palace, 
in -which her Majesty used to reside; St, James’s Palace, 
in which her Dramng-rooms are usually held; the beautiful 
fragment of the Palace of Whitehall, used as a Chapel 
Royal, commonly known as Inigo Jones’s Banqueting-house ; 
and the Palace at Kensington, in which her Majesty was 
born. 

1. BUCKINGHAM PALACE, in St. James’s Park, was com¬ 
menced in the reign of George IV., on the site of Bucking¬ 
ham House, by John Nash, and completed in the reign of 
William IV,, but never inhabited by that sovereign, who is 
said to have expressed his great dislike to the general appear¬ 
ance and discomfort of the whole structure. When the first 
grant to George IV. was given by Parliament, it was intended 
only to repair and enlarge old Buckingham House; and 
therefore the old site, height, and dimensions were retained. 
This led to the erection of a clumsy building, probably at 
a cost little inferior to that which would have produced 
an entirely new Palace. On her Majesty’s accession several 
alterations were effected, and new buildings added to the 
S.; her Majesty entering into her new Palace on the 13th 
of July, 1837. Greater chaages have since taken place, by 
the removal of the Marble arch, and the erection, at a cost 
of 150,000^., of an E. front, under the superintendence of 
Mr. Blore, by Avhich the whole building was converted 
into a Quadrangle. The chapel on the S. side, originally a 
conservatory, was consecrated in 1843. The Grand Staircase 
is of white marble, with decorations by L. Gruner. The 
magnificent Ball-room, on the S. side, was finished, 1856, 
from Penuethorne’s designs, and decorated within by Gruner. 

B 




2 


II.—BUCKINGHAM PALACE. 


The Green Drawing-i*oom opening upon the upper story of the 
portico of the old building is 50 feet in length, and 32 in 
height. At state balls, to which the invitations often ex¬ 
ceed 2000, those having the entree alight at the temporary 
garden entrance, and the general circle enter by the gi'and 
hall. Visitors are conducted through the Green Drawing-room 
to the Picture Gallery and the Grand Saloon. On these 
occasions refreshments are served in the Gai*ter-room and 
Green Drawing-room, and supper laid in the princij)al Dining¬ 
room. The concerts, invitations to which seldom exceed 
300, are given in the Grand Saloon. The Throne-room is 64 
feet in length, and hung with crimson satin, sti-iped. The 
ceiling of the room is coved, and richly emblazoned with 
ai’ms; here is a white marble frieze (the Wars of the Roses), 
designed by Stothard and executed by Baily, R. A. The Queen 
has 325,000Z. a year settled upon her, of which 60,000Z. 
a year only is in her own hands; the remainder is spent 
by the Lord Chamberlain of the Household, the Lord 
Steward of the Household, and other great officers attached 
to the Court. The pictures, principally collected by George 
IV., include the choice collection of Sir Thomas Baring, 
chiefly Dutch and Flemish. They are almost without ex¬ 
ception first-rate works. The portraits are in the State 
Rooms adjoining. Among the best are— 


A LBERT Durer : An Altar Piece in three parts.— Mabu.se : St. Matthew 
called from the receipt of Custom.— Rembrandt : Noli me Tangere; 
Adoration of the Magi; The Ship-hnilder and his wife (very fine, cost 
George IV. when Prince of Wales, 5000 guineas); Burgomaster Pancras 
and his Wife.— Rubens: Pythagoras, the fruit and animals by Snyders; 
A Landscape; The Assumption of the Virgin; St. George and the 
Dragon; Pan and Syrinx ; The Falconer; Family of Olden Bameveldt. 
—Van Dyck: Mandage of St. Catherine; Christ healing the Lame 
IMan; Study of Three Horses; Portrait of a Man in black ; Queen Henri¬ 
etta Maria presenting Charles I. with a crown of laurel.— Mytens: 
Charles I. and his Queen, full-length figures in a small picture. —Jansen: 
Charles I. walking in Greenwich Park wdth his Queen and two children. 
—N. Maes : A Young Woman, with her finger on her lip and in a 
listening attitude, stealing down a dark winding Staircase.—Several 
fine specimens of Cuyp, Hobbema, Ruysdael, A. Vandervelde 
Younger Vandervelde, Paul Potter, Backhuysen, Bergiiem, Both, 
G. Douw, Karel Du Jardin, De Hooghe, Metzu (his own portrait), 
T'l Mieris, a. Ostade, I. Ostade, Sciialken, Jan Steen, Teniers, 
Ferburg, &c.—Sir Joshua Reynolds : Death of Dido; Cymon and Iphi- 
genia; His own portrait, in spectacles.— Zoffany': Interior of the 
Florentine Gallery; Royal Academy in 1773.— Sir P. Lely : Anne Hyde, 
Duchess of York. — Sir D. Wilkie : The Penny Wedding; Blind Man’s 
Buff; Duke of Sussex in Highland dress.— Sir W. Allan : The Orphan ; 
line Scott near the vacant chair of her father. Sir AValter Scott. 


,B.—The nterior of the Palace is not shown. 


II.—OPENING OF PARLIAMENT.—ST. JAMES’s PALACE. 3 


AMien Parliament is opened, or prorogued, or dissolved, by 
her Majesty in person, the folloAvingis the order obsei’ved :— 
The Queen leaves Buckingham Palace at a quarter before 2, 
being conducted to her carriage by the Lord Chamberlain 
and the Vice-Chamberlain, and her CroAvn carried to the 
House of Lords by one of the Lord Chamberlain’s chief 
officers. 

The State procession includes a carriage drawn by 6 bays, 
conveying 3 gentlemen ushers and the Exon in waiting; 
a carriage drawn by 6 bays, conveying the Groom in wait¬ 
ing, and the Pages of Honour in waiting; a carriage drawn 
by 6 bays, conveying the Equerry in waiting, and the Groom 
of the Eobes; a carriage drawn by 6 bays, conveying the 
Clerk Marshal, the Silver Stick in waiting, the Field Officer 
in waiting, and the Comptroller of the Household; a carriage 
drawn by 6 bays, conveying the Captain of the Yeomen of 
the Guard, the Lord in waiting, and the Treasurer of the 
Household; a carriage drawn by 6 black horses, conveying 
the Mistress of the Robes, the Lord Steward, and the Gold 
Stick in waiting. Here the carriage procession is broken 
by the Queen’s Marshalmen on foot, the Queen’s Footmen in 
State Liveries, and a party of the Yeoman of the Guard or 
Beefeaters. Then follows the State Coach drawn by 8 cream- 
coloured horses, conveying the Queen, and members of the 
Royal Family, or in their absence, the Mistress of the Robes, 
and the Master of the Horse, escorted by a detachment of 
the Horse Guards. 

Royal Stables. —The Mews, concealed from the Palace bj’’ 
a lofty mound, contains a spacious riding-school; a room 
expressly for keeping state harness; stables for the state 
horses; and houses for 40 carriages. Here, too, is kept the 
magnificent state coach, designed by Sir W. Chambers in 
] 762, and painted by Cipriani with a series of emblematical 
subjects; the entire cost being 7661Z. I 65 . 6d. The stud 
of horses and the carriage may be inspected by an order 
from the Master of the Horse. The entrance is in Queen’s- 
row, Pimlico. 

2. ST. JAMES’S PALACE. An irregxilar brick building 
at the bottom of St. James’s Street, was the only London 
Palace of our Sovereigns from the time of the burning of 
Whitehall, in the reign of William III., to the occupation 
of Buckingham Palace by her present Majesty. It was first 
made a manor by Henry VIII., and was previously an hospital 
dedicated to St. James, and founded for fourteen sisters, 
“maidens that were leprous.” When Henry altered or re- 


4 


II.—ST. James’s palace. 


built it, (it is uncertain which,) he annexed the present Park, 
closed it about with^a wall of brick, and thus connected the 
manor of St. James’s with the manor or Palace of 'N^Tiitehall. 
Little remains of the old Palace but the dingy, patched-up 
brick gateway towards St. James’s-street, contiguous to which 
is the Chapel Royal, bearing, in the chimney-piece of the 
old Presence-chamber, the initials H. A. (Henry and Anne 
Boleyn). 

The watching of the Palace is entrusted to the Household 
Brigade of Guards, and the guard is changed every day at a 
quarter to 11, when the band plays in the outer or E. court 
for about a quarter of an hour. The stranger should j^see 
this once. In the Great Council-chamber the odes of the 
Poets Laureate were formerly performed and sung, before 
the King and Queen. Queen Mary I. and Henry, Prince 
of Wales, eldest son of James I., died here. Charles II. 
was born here. Here Charles I. passed his last night before 
his execution, walking the next morning from St. James’s 
through the Park, guarded with a regiment of foot and par¬ 
tisans,” to the scaffold before Whitehall. Monk took up 
his quarters in St. James’s House,” while his plans for the 
Restoration were as yet undecided. James II.’s son, by 
Mary of Modena, the old Pretender, was born here. A 
contemporaiy plan of the Palace is dotted Avith lines, to 
show the way in which the child was said to have been con¬ 
veyed in the warming-pan to her Majesty’s bed in the Great 
Bed-chamber, pulled down in 1822. Queen Anne (then the 
Princess Anne) descilbes St. James’s Palace “as much the 
properest place to act such a cheat in.” Here died Caroline, 
Queen of Geoi’ge II.; and here George IV. was born. 

‘ In the dingy brick house on the west side of the Am¬ 
bassadors’ Court, Marshal Blucher was lodged in 1814. He 
was so popular that he had to show himself every day many 
times to the mob, who were content to wait tintil the court 
was filled, when he was vociferously called forward to the 
window to be cheered. 

Drawing-rooms and Levees are still held in this Palace, 
for the purposes of which it is scarcely adequate, though 
it has been somewhat enlarged. 

Every information respecting the mode of presentation at 
Court may be obtained at the offices of the Lord Steward at 
Buckingham Palace, and of the Lord Chamberlain, in St. 
James’s Palace. Levees are for the presentation of gentlemen 
only; Drawing-rooms are for introducing ladies (principally) 
and are attended by few gentlemen. The days on which 
they take place are advertised in the morning and evening 


II.—PRESENTATION AT COURT.—WHITEHALL. 


5 


papers, with the necessary directions about carriages, &c., 
some days before. The greatest occasion in every year is 
on Her Majesty’s birthday (which is made a kind of movable 
feast), but presentations do not take jilace on that day. 
Any subject of Great Britain, who has been presented at 
St. James’s, can claim to be presented, through the English 
ambassador, at any foreign court. The names of gentle¬ 
men wishing to be presented, with the name of the noble¬ 
man or gentleman who is to present them, must be sent 
to the Lord Chamberlain’s office several days previous to 
presentation, in order that they may be submitted for the 
Queen’s approbation, it being Her Majesty’s command that 
no presentation shall be made at any Levees but in con 
formity with the above regulations Noblemen and gentle¬ 
men are also requested to bring with them two cards, with 
their names clearly written thereon, one to be left with the 
Queen’s Page in attendance in the Presence-chamber, and 
the other to be delivered to the Lord Chamberlain, who will 
announce the name to Her Majesty. On the presentation 
of Addresses to Her Majesty, no comments are suffered to 
be made. A deputation to present an Address must not ex¬ 
ceed four pereons. 

In the Chapel Royal, entered from the Colour Court of 
the Palace, Her Majesty Victoria, and various Princes and 
Princesses of her line were married. On the festival of the 
Epiphany, Her Majesty presents to the altar, through two 
Gentlemen of the Court, gifts of gold, frankincense, and 
myrrh. The roof is of very elegant Holbeinesque design. The 
seats in this chapel are appropi’iated to the nobility. Service 
is performed at 10 a.m., 12 noon, and 5i p.m. Admittance for 
strangers, very limited, by tickets from the Lord Chamber- 
lain, or Bishop of London. The service is chaunted by the 
boys of the Chapel Royal. 

3. WHITEHALL. The Palace of the Kings of England 
from Henry VIII. to William III., of which nothing remains 
but Inigo Jones’s Banqueting-house, James II.’s statue, and 
the memory of what was once the Privy Garden, in a row of 
houses, so styled, looking upon the Thames. It was originally 
called York House; was delivered and demised to Henry VIII., 
on the disgrace of Cardinal Wolsey, Archbishop of York, and 
then first called Whitehall. Heniy VIII.’s AVhitehall Avas a 
building in the Tudor or Hampton Court style of architec¬ 
ture, with a succession of galleries and courts, a large Hall, a 


6 


II.—WHITEHALL. 


Chapel, Tennis-court, Cockpit, Orchard, and Banquetiug- 
house. James I. intended to have rebuilt the whole Palace, 
and Inigo Jones designed a new AVhitehall for that King 
worthy of our nation and his own great name. But nothing 
was built beyond the present Banqueting-house, deservedly 
looked upon as a model of Palladian architecture, and one 
of the finest buildings in the w’hole of London. Charles I. 
contemplated a similar reconstruction, but poverty at first 
prevented him, and the Civil War soon after was a more 
effectual prohibition. Charles II. preserved what money he 
could spare from his pleasures to build a palace at Win¬ 
chester. James II. was too busy about religion to attend to 
architecture, and in William III.’s reign the whole of White¬ 
hall, except the Banqueting-house, was destroyed by fire. 
William talked of rebuilding it after Inigo’s designs, but 
nothing was done. Anne, his successor, took up her abode 
in St. James’s Palace, and Vanbrugh built a house at White¬ 
hall out of the ruins—the house ridiculed by Swift with 
such inimitable drollery. 

The present Banqueting-house was designed by Inigo Jones, 
between 1619 and 1622. The master-mason was Nicholas 
Stone, the sculptor of the fine monument to Sir Francis Vere 
in Westminster Abbey. The Hall is exactly a double cube, 
being 111 feet long, 55 feet 6 inches high, and 55 feet 6 inches 
wide. King Charles I. was executed on a scaffold erected in 
front of the Banqueting-house, towai’ds the Park. The warrant 
directs that he should be executed “ in the open street before 
Whitehall.” Lord Leicester, in his Journal; Dugdale, in his 
Diary; and a Broadsheet of the time, pi'eseiwed in the British 
Museum, concur in the statement that “ the King was be¬ 
headed at Whitehall-gate,” and it is confirmed by a print of 
the execution published at Amsterdam the same year. There 
cannot, therefore, be a doubt that the scaffold was erected in 
front of the building facing the present Horse Guards. It 
appears from Herbei’t’s minute account of the King’s last 
moments, that ‘Hhe King was led all along the galleries 
and Banqueting-house, and there was a passage broTcen 
through the wall, by which the King passed unto the 
scaffold.” 

The ceiling of the Banqueting-house is lined with pictures 
on canvas, representing the apotheosis of James I., painted 
abroad by Rubens, in 1635. Kneller had heard that Eubens 
was assisted by Jordaens in the execution. The sum he 
received Avas 3000?. “What,” says Walpole, “had the Bau- 
queting-house been if completed ! Van Dyck Avas to have 
painted the sides AA’ith the history and procession of the 


11.—WHITEHALL—KENSINGTON PALACE. 


/ 


Order of the Garter.” Witliin, and over the principal en¬ 
trance, is a bust, in bronze, of Janies I., by Le Soeux’, 
it is said. The Banqueting-house was converted into a 
chapel in the reign of George I., and altered as we now 
see it, between 1829 and 1837, by Sir Robei’t Sinh’ke. It 
has never been consecrated. Hei'e, on evexy Maunday 
Thursday, (the day befoi-e Good Fxdday,) the Queexi's elee¬ 
mosynary bouxxty (a vexy old custom) is distributed to poor 
and aged men and women. 

The statue of James II., in the court behixxd the Banqueting- 
house, was the wox’k of Grinling Gihhons, axxd was set up while 
the King was reigning, at the charge of an old servant of the 
crowxi called Tobias Rustat. Nothing caxi illustx-ate better 
the mild chax’acter of the Revolution of 1688, than the fact 
that the statue of the abdicated and exiled King was allowed 
to stand, and still staxids, in the innex’xnost court-yard of 
what was once his owxx Palace. 

4. KENSINGTON PALACE is a lax’ge and ix'regular edifice, 
originally the seat of Heneage Fixxch, Earl of Nottingham 
axxd Lord Chancellor of England; whose son, the secoixd 
eax'l, sold it to King William III., soon after his accessioxx to 
the thx’one. The lower poiiioxi of the building was pax-t of 
Lox-d Nottixxgham’s house; the higher stoxy was added by 
William III., from the desigxis of Wren, and the N.W. 
angle by George II., as a Nux’sexy for his children. William 
III. and Queen Mary, Queen Anne, her husband Prince 
Geox'ge of Denmark, and King George II., all died in this 
Palace. Her px-esent Majesty was born in it, (1819,) and 
here (1837) she held her first Council. The Duke of Sussex, 
son of Geox’ge III., lived, died, and had his fixxe libx’axy in 
this Palace. Caroline of Brunswick, Princess of Wales, had 
apartments here. The Oi-angexy, a vexy fine detached rooxn, 
was built by Wx’en. The last memorable intex’view betweexx 
Queen Anne and the Duchess of Marlborough took place ixx 
this palace. The collection of pictures (long famous and 
still knowxi as the Kensingtoxi Collection to the readers of 
Walpole) has been x’emoved to other palaces; axxd the 
kitchen-garden has .been built over with two rows of de¬ 
tached mansions, called Palace-gardens.” 

MARLBOROUGH HOUSE, Pall Mall, St. James’s; the 
residence of H.R.H. Albert Edward Px'ince of Wales. 
Built 1709-10 by Sir C. Wren for Johxx Churchill, the great 
Dxxke of Marlborough, on gx’ound leased to him by Queexx 
Anne. The body of the gx’eat duke was brought hitlier from 


8 


II.—MARLBOROUGH HOUSE. 


Windsor—his duchess died in this house. She used to speak 
of her neighbour George, meaning the King in St. James’s 
Palace, and here she is described as receiving a deputation of 
the Lord Mayor and sheriffs, “ sitting up in her bed in her 
usual manner.” The Pall-mall entrance to the house being, as 
it still is, extremely bad, the duchess designed a new one, and 
was busy trying to effect the necessary purchases when Sir 
Robert Walpole, wishing to vex her, stept in and bought the 
very leases she was looking after. The sham archway, facing 
the principal entrance to the house, forms a sort of screen to 
the pai'lour in Pall-mall. This was turning the tables on 
the duchess, who had employed Wren to vex Vanbrugh. 
Marlborough House was bought by the Crown in 1817 for 
the Princess Charlotte and Prince Leopold. The Princess 
died befoi'e the assignment was effected, but the Prince (sub¬ 
sequently King of the Belgians) lived here for sevei-al years, 
and afterwards Queen Adelaide, widow of William IV. 

It was lent for the purposes of a Gallery to contain the 
Vernon and Turner pictures, and other collections, down to 
1859, when they were I’emoved to the South Kensington 
Museum. 


III.—LAMBETH PALACE. 


0 


lll.-HOUSES OF THE PRINCIPAL NOBILITY AND 
GENTRY. 

LAMBETH PALACE, on the S. side of the Thames 
over-against the Palace at Westminster, has been the palace 
of the Archbishops of Canterbury from at least the 13tb cen¬ 
tury, and exhibits various gradations in its architecture, from 
E. Eng. to late Perpr. or Jacobean. This is entered through 
a Gothic Gatehouse of red brick, near the parish church, the 
lower floor of which was used as a prison. This was built by 
Archbishop and Cardinal Morton (d. 1500). The Chapel, the 
oldest part, was built by Boniface, Archbishop of Canter¬ 
bury, (1244-70). It is Early English, with lancet windows 
and a crypt. The roof is modern. There is an oak screen 
with the arms of Archbishop Laud, by whom it was 
erected. Before the altar is the grave of Archbishop Parker, 
(d. 1575). In this chapel all the archbishops have been con¬ 
secrated since the time of Boniface. The stained glass 
windows were destroyed in the Civil Wars, and are feelingly 
lamented by La\id in the History of the Troubles. The glass 
now in the windows was placed at the expense of Arclibp. 
Howley. In a well-preserved but now dark crypt, plain 
stone vaulted, resting on detached columns, the Trial of 
Queen Catherine of Arragon is said to have taken place. 
The Lollards' Tower at the W. end of the chapel, was 
built by Archp. Chicheley, 1434-45, and so called from 
the Lollards, who are said (incorrectly) to have been im¬ 
prisoned in it. In^the front facing the river is a niche, in 
which was placed tGe image of St. Thomas; and at the top is a 
small room (13 feet by 12, and about 8 feet high) called the 
prison, wainscotted with oak above an inch thick, on which 
several names and broken sentences in old characters are cut, 
as “Chessam Doctor,” “Peiit louganham,” “Ihs cyppemeout 
of all el compane, amen,” “John Worth,” “Nosce Teipsum,” &c. 
The large iron rings in the wall seem to sanction the sup¬ 
posed appropriation of the room. The Post-room in* this 
tower contains an oi’namented flat ceiling, of uncommon 
occurrence. The Hall, 93 feet by 38, was built by Archbp. 
Juxon, who attended Charles I. to the scafibld. Over the door 
(inside) are his arms and the date 1663. The roof is of oak, with 
a louvre or lantern in the centre for the escape of smoke. The 
whole design is Gothic in spirit, but poor and debased in its 
details. The bay window contains the arms of Philip II. of 
Spain (the husband of Queen Mary); of Archbishops Bancroft, 


10 


HI.—LAMBETH.—APSLEY HOUSE. 


Laud, and Juxon. The walls are hung with a long series 
of portraits of the Archbishops, among which may be speci¬ 
fied those of Archbp. Chicheley, of Archbp. 'VYarham (a 
genuine Holbein, and of Tillotson, by Mrs. Beale. 

The Library, in a large detached hall, with a fine painted 
Elizabethan roof, consists of about 30,000 volumes, open to 
students Monday,Wednesday, and Friday, 10 to 3, was founded 
by Archbishop Bancroft (d. 1610); enriched by Archbishop 
Abbot (d. 1633); and enlarged by Archbishops Tenison and 
Seeker. It is rich in Historical and State Letters (MSS.). It 
has a good number of Illuminated Service Books, and some 
fine Oriental MSS. Curiosities :—A MS. of Lord Rivers’s 
translation of The Dictes and Sayings of the Philosophei-s, 
containing an illumination of the earl introducing Caxton, 
the printer (it is said), to Edward IV., his Queen and Prince. 
Here are numerous Autograph Letters of Lord Bacon. 
Of the English books in the library printed before 1600, 
there is a valuable catalogue by Dr. Maitland, many years 
librarian. The habitable Palace was rebuilt by Archbishop 
Howley from the designs of Edward Blore. The iircome of 
the Archbishop of Canterbury is 15,000^. a year. The parish 
church adjoining the red brick gateway of the Palace is the 
mother-church of Lambeth; here several Archbishops of 
Canterbury are buried; also Tradescant and Ashmole—the 
former in the churchyard, with altar-tomb (restored 1853), 
the latter in the church Avith grave-stone. 

LOHDOH HOUSE, No. 22, St. James’s Square, town 
residence of the Bishop of London. It has no architectural 
pretensions. The income of the Bishop is fixed at 10,000^. 
a year. The house belongs to the See. 

WELLESLEY or APSLEY HOUSE, Hyde Park Corner. 
The London residence, 1820—1852, of Field Marshal the 
Duke of Wellington, built by Henry Bathurst, Baron Apsley, 
and Lord High Chancellor, (d. 1794,) the son of Pope's 
friend. The house, originally of red brick, was faced with 
Bath stone in 1828, when the front portico and the W. wing, 
containing a gallery 90 feet long, (to the W.,) were added for 
the great Duke by Messrs. S. & B. Wyatt; but the old house 
is intact. The iron blinds—bullet-proof—put up by the great 
Duke during the ferment of the Reform Bill, when his window’s 
w’ere broken and at least one of his pictures damaged by 
stones thi’own by a London mob,—were taken down in 1855 
by the present Duke. 

Observe.—George lY., full-length, in a Highland costume ( Wilkie).— 
William IV., full-length {Wilkie). —Sarah, the first Lady Lyndhurst 
{Wilkie). This picture Avas penetrated by a stone, thrown by the mob 


III.—NORTHUMBERLAND HOUSE. 


11 


through a broken Avindow, in the Reform Riot, but the injury has 
been skilfully repaired.—Emperor Alexander.—Kings of Prussia, France, 
and the Netherlands, full-lengths.— Full lengths of Lord Lynedoch, 
Marquis of Anglesey, Marquis Wellesley,&c.—Head of Marshal Soult.— 
Two full length portraits of Napoleon, one consulting a map.— Bust of 
Sir Walter Scott {Chantrey). —Bust of Pitt (Nollekens). —Bust of Duke 
{Nollekens). — Small bronze of Blucher (Bauch). —Battle of Waterloo, 
Napoleon in the foreground (Sh- W. Allan). The Duke, bought this 
picture at the Exhibition; he is said to have called it "good, very 
good, not too much smoke.”—Many portraits of Napoleon, one by David] 
extremely good. — Wilkie’s Chelsea Pensioners reading the Gazette 
of the Battle of Waterloo, painted for the Duke.— Burnet's Greeinvich 
Pensioners celebrating the Anniversary of the Battle of Trafalgar, bought 
of Burnet by the Duke. Portraits of veterans in both pictures.—Van 
Amburgh and the Lions (Sir E. ianc^scer).—Highland Whiskey Still 
(Ditto). —Meet at Melton Mowbray (F. G-rant). —Colossal marble statue 
of Napoleon, by Canova, with a figure of Victory on a globe in his hand, 
presented in 1817 to the Duke by the Prince Regent.—Bust of Pauline 
J’uonaparte (C'nwowa), a present from Canova to the Duke.—Christ on 
the Mount of Olives (Correggio,) the most celebrated picture of Cor¬ 
reggio in this country; on panel, captured in Spain, in the carriage of 
.Joseph Buonaparte; restored by the captor to Ferdinand VII., but Avith 
others, under like circumstances, again presented to the Duke by 
that sovereign. An Annunciation, after M. Angelo, of which the 
original draiving is in the Uffizj at Florence.—The Adoration of the 
Shepherds (Sogliani). —The Water-seller (Velasquez). —Two fine portraits 
by Velasquez, of himself, (and of Pope Innocent X.)—A fine Spagno- 
letto. — Small sea-piece, by Claude. — A large and good Jan Steen (a 
Wedding Feast, dated 1667). — A Peasant’s Wedding [Teniers). — Boors 
Drinking (A. Ostade). —The celebrated Terhurg (the Signing the Peace 
of Westphalia), from the Talleyrand Collection. This picture hung 
in the room in Avhich the allied sovereigns signed the treaty of Paris, in 
1814.—A fine Wouvermans (the Return from the Chase).—VicAvof 

Veght, Vanderhe.yden. 

The Crown’s interest in the house was sold to the great Duke 
for the sum of 9530^. ; the Crown reserving a right to forhid 
the erection of any other house or liouses on the site. 
Marshal Soult, when ambassador from France at the Queen’s 
Coronation, Avas entertained by the Duke in this house. The 
room in which the Waterloo banquet was held every 18th 
of June is the great west room on the drawing-room floor, 
with its seven windows looking into Hyde Park. 

NORTHUMBERLAND HOUSE, Charing Cross, the 
town-house of the Duke of Northumberland, (ivith rich cen¬ 
tral gateway, surmounted by the Lion crest of the Percies,) 
and so called after Algernon Percy, Earl of Northumberland, 
(d. 1668,) the subject of more than one of Van Dyck’s finest 
portraits. It was built by Henry Howard, Earl of North¬ 
ampton, (son of Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey, i\\Q poet,) 
Bernard Jansen and Gerard Christmas being, it is said, his 
architects. The Earl of Northampton left it, in 1614, to his 
nephew, Thomas Howard, Earl of Suffolk, (father of the 
memorable Frances, Countess of Essex and Somerset,) Avhen 


12 


III.—NORTHUMBERLAND HOUSE. 


it received the name of Suffolk House, by which name it was 
known until the marriage, in 1642, of Elizabeth, daughter of 
Theophilus, second Earl of Suffolk, with Algernon Percy, tenth 
Earl of Northumberland, who bought the house of James, Earl 
of Suffolk, for 15,000Z., and called it Northumberland House. 
Josceline Percy, eleventh Earl of Northumberland, (son of the 
before-mentioned Algernon Percy,) dying in 1670, without 
issue male, Northumberland House became the property of 
his only daughter, Elizabeth Percy, heiress of the Percy 
estates, afterwards married to Charles Seymour, commonly 
called proud Duke of Somerset. The Duke and Duchess 
of Somerset lived in great state and magnificence in Northum¬ 
berland House, for by this title it still continued to be 
called, as the name of Somerset was already attached to an 
older inn or London town-house in the Strand. The duchess 
died in 1722, and the duke, dying in 1748, was succeeded by 
his eldest son, Algernon, Earl of Hertford and seventh Duke 
of Somerset, created (1749) Earl of Northumberland, with 
remainder, failing issue male, to Sir Hugh Smithson, Bart., 
husband of his only daughter. Sir Hugh was raised to the Duke¬ 
dom of Northumberland in 1766. The house originally formed 
three sides of a quadrangle, (a kind of main body with wings,) 
the fourth side remaining open to the gardens and river. 
The principal apartments were on the Strand side; but after 
the estate became the property of the Earl of Suffolk, the 
quadrangle was completed by a side towards the Thames. 

The date, 1749, onthefa 9 ade, refers to the work of repara¬ 
tion ; and the letters A. S., P. N., stand for Algernon Somerset, 
Princeps Northumbrias. 

Observe. —The celebrated Cornaro Famib^, by Titian. Evelyn saw it here 
in 1658. It has been much touched upon. St. Sebastian bound, on 
the groimd; in the air two angels; a clear, well-executed picture, by 
Guercino, with figures as large as life. A small Adoration of the 
Shepherds, by Giacomo Bassano. Three half figures in one picture, 
by Dobson, representing Sir Charles Cotterell, embraced by Dobson 
and Sir Balthazar Gerbier in a white waistcoat. A Fox and a 
Deer Hunt; two admirable pictures by Franz Snyders. A genuine 
but ordinary Holy Family, by J. Jordaens. A pretty Girl, Avith a 
candle, before which she holds her hands, by G. Schalken. The School of 
Athens, after copied by in 1755, and the best copy ever 

made of this celebrated picture. VieAv of AlnAvick, by Canaletti, valuable 
as showing the state of the building, circ. 1750; full-length portrait of 
Edward VI. when a boy of six or seven, assigned to Mabuse, and curious 
—he is in a red dress. A large and fine Buysdael. Josceline, 11th Earl 
of Northumberland, by Wissing (oval). Portrait of Napoleon Avhen First 
Consul, by T. Phillips, R.A., taken from repeated observation of 
Napoleon’s face. 

All that is old of the present building is the portal towards the 
Strand; but even of this there is a good deal that is new. 


III.—DEVONSHIRE HOUSE.—STAFFORD HOUSE. 13 


Tlie house is massively furnished and in good taste. The stair¬ 
case is stately, the Pompeian room most elegant, and the state 
Drawing-room, with its ten lights to the E., and its noble 
copies after Raphael, is not to be matched in London for mag¬ 
nificence. Many of the fire-places, fenders, and fire-irons are 
of silver. The large Sevres vase in the centre of the great 
room was presented by Charles X. to a former Duke when 
representative of Great Britain at Charles’s coronation in 
1825. It was broken to pieces at the fire of 1868, but ad¬ 
mirably repaired by Daniell of Bond-street. 

DEVO]SrSHIPi,E HOUSE, PicaiDiLLY. A good, plain, 
well-proportioned brick building, built by William Kent, for 
William Cavendish, third duke of Devonshire (d. 1755). It 
stands on the site of BerTceley House, destroyed by fire in 
1733, and is said to have cost the sum of 20,000Z., exclusive 
of 1000^. presented to the architect by the duke. Observe .— 
Very fine full-length portraits, on one canvas, of the Prince 
and Princess of Orange, by Jorclaens: Fine three-quarter 
portrait of Lord Richard Cavendish, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; 
fine three-quarter portx’ait, in black dress, by Tintoretto; 
Sir Thomas Browne, author of Religio Medici, and family, 
by Dobson ; fine male portrait, by Lely. Poidi’ait of the Earl 
of Burlington, the architect, by \Kneller. The Devonshire 
Gems—a noble collection. The “ Kemble Plays ”—a match¬ 
less series of old English plays, with a rich collection of 
the first editions of Shakspeare,—formed by John Philip 
Kemble, and bought, for 2000^., at his death. The portico 
is modern, and altogether out of keeping with the rest of 
the building. The old entrance, taken down in 1840, was 
by a flight of steps on each side. The magnificent max-ble 
staircase at the back of the house, with its glass balustrade, 
was erected by the late duke. The grand saloon (part of 
Kent’s design) is decorated in the style of Le Bmn. The 
grounds extend to liansdowne House. 

STAFFORD HOUSE, in St. James’s Park, between St. 
James’s Palace and the Green Park, was built, for the 
Duke of York, (second son of George III.,) with money 
advanced for that purpose by the Marquis of Stafibrd, after¬ 
wards first Duke of Sutherland (d. 1833). The Duke of 
York did not live to inhabit it, and the Crown lease was 
sold in 1841 to the Duke of Sutherland, for the sum of 
72,000Z., and the purchase-money spent in the formation of 
Victoria Park. The upper story was added by the duke 
of S. This is said to be the finest private nuinsion in the 


14 


III.—NORFOLK HOUSE. 

metropolis. The great dining-room is worthy of Versailles. 
The internal arrangements were planned by Sir Charles 
Barry. The pictures, too, are very fine; but the collection 
distiibuted throughout the house is private, and admission 
is obtained only by the express invitation or permission of 
the duke. The Sutherland Gallery, as it is called, is a noble 
room, 126 feet long by 32 feet wide. Observe — 


Raphael: Clirist bearing his Cross; a small full-length figure, seen 
against a sky back-ground between two pilasters, from Ilicciardi Palace at 
Florence.—C. B. Moroni: Portrait of a Jesuit, perhaps the finest 
work hei’e.— Guido : Head of the Magdalen; Study for the large picture 
of Atalanta in the Royal Palace at Naples; the Circumcision.— Gueecino : 
St, Gregory; St. Grisogono; a Landscape.— Pakmegiano : Head of a 
Young Man (very fine).— Tintoretto: A Lady at her Toilet.— Titian : 
Mercury teaching Cupid to read in the presence of Venus (an Orleans 
picture, figures life-size); St. Jerome in the Desert; three Portraits.— 
AIurillo (5): Two from Marshal Soult’s Collection: the Return of the 
Prodigal Son (a composition of nine figures); Abraham and the Angels, 
cost 3000Z.—F. ZuEBARAN (4) : Three from Soult’s Collection (very fine). 
— Velasquez (2) : Duke of Gandia at the Door of a Convent; eight 
figures, life-size, from the Soult Collection; Landscape.— Albert Durer : 
the Death of the Virgin.'— Honthorst : Christ before Pilate (Honthorst’s 
chef d'oeuvre), from the Lucca Collection.—N. Poussin (3).—G. Poussin 
(1). —Rubens (4): Holy Family ; Marriage of St. Catharine; Sketch, en 
grisaille, for the great picture in the Louvre, of the Marriage of Henry 
IV. and Marie de Medicis.— Van Dyck (4); Thomas Howard, Earl of 
Arundel, in an arm-chair (very fine, and finely engraved by Sharp); two 
Portraits; St. Martin dividing his Cloak (in a circle).— Watteau (5); 
all fine.—D. Teniers (2): a Witch performing her Incantations; Ducks 
in a Reedy Pool.— Terburg : Gentleman bowing to a Lady (very fine).— 
Sir Joshua Reynolds: Dr. Johnson without his Wig, and with his 
hands up.— Sir D. Wilkie: the Breakfast Table (painted for the first 
Duke of Sutherland).— Sir T. Lawrence: Lady Gower and Child. 
—E. Bird, R.A.: Day after the Battle of Chevy Chase.— Sir E. Land¬ 
seer, R.A.: Lord Stafford and Lady Evelyn Gower (now Lady Blantyre). 
—W. Etty, R.A.: Festival before the Flood.— John Martin: the As¬ 
suaging of the Waters.— Paul Delaroche : Lord Straftbrd on his Avay 
to the Scaffold receives the blessing of Archbishop Laud.— Winter¬ 
halter : Scene from the Decameron.— A collection of 150 portraits, 
illustrative of French history and French memoirs. 


The land.on which Stafford House stands belongs to the 
Crown, and the duke pays an annual ground-rent for the same 
of 758^. It stands partly on the site of Godolphin House, and 
partly on the site of the Libraiy built by the Queen of George II. 
At least 250,000Z. have been spent on Staffoi'd House. 

NORFOLK HOUSE, in the S.-E. corner of St. James’s 
Square, was so called from the seventh Duke of Norfolk, 
who died here, 1701. It was built by Payne. The interior 
is handsome, the first floor consisting of a fine set of drawing- 


III.—MONTAGUE HOUSE.—GROSVENOR HOUSE. 15 

rooms toward the square, terminated by a magnificent dining- 
hall, lined with mirrors, the roof of which is very rich and 
beautiful. The arrangements of the house are not such as 
will allow of its being shown. In the rear is part of an older 
house in which Henry Jerm}’ii, Earl of St. Alban, of the time 
of Charles II., lived, and in which George III. was born. In it 
are preserved the vei'y valuable records of the great historical 
family of the Howards, and of those of Fitzalan and Mow¬ 
bray, which have merged into it. Observe. —Portrait of tho 
First Duke of Norfolk (Howard), three-quarter length, in 
robes, with a marshal’s staff in his hand, Holbein ; —portraits 
of Bishop Trieste, and of Henrietta Maria, in a gi’een dress. 
Van Dyck;- —portrait of his wife, hj Rubens; two very fine 
landscapes, by Salv. Rosa; the Crucifixion, a curious picture, 
by that rare master, Lucas v. Leyden; Family of the Earl of 
Arundel, the collector; small figures, by Mytens ; Shield given 
by the Grand Duke of Tuscany to the ill-fated Henry 
Howard, Earl of Surrey, at a tournament in Florence, in 
1537, painted in the style oi Perino del Vaga, 

MONTAGUE HOUSE, between Whitehall Gardens 
and Richmond Terrace, the town-house of the Duke of 
Buccleuch, who inherits it from the noble family of Mon¬ 
tague. Was rebuilt 1859-62, from designs of William Burn, 
architect. The site belongs to the Crown. It contains 
some dark but good pictures by Van Dyck: viz. full- 
length of Duke of Hamilton in armour (hand leaning 
on a helmet), front face, buff boots, hair over forehead, 
(very fine); full-length of Lord Holland,—slashed sleeves, 
hair short on forehead; full-length of Duke of Rich¬ 
mond, in complete black—yellow hair over shoulders, 
brownish back-ground. 35 sketches {en grisaille), by Van 
Dyck, made for the series of portraits etched in part by 
Van Dyck, and published by Martin Vanden Enden; they 
belonged to Sir Peter Lely. One of CanalettVs finest 
pictures, a view of Whitehall, showing Holbein’s gateway, 
Inigo’s Banquetiug-house, and the steeple of St. Martin’s-in- 
the-Fields with the scaffolding about it. A noble collec¬ 
tion of English miniatures, from Isaac Oliver’s time to the 
time of Zincke. 

GROSVENOR HOUSE, Upper Grosvenor Street. The 
town-house of the Marquis of Westminster. The handsome 
screen of classic pillars, with its double archway dividing the 
court-yard from the street, was added in 1842. Here is the 
Grosvenor Gallery of Pictures, founded by Richard, first Earl 


IG 


HI.—LANSDOWNE HOUSE. 


Grosvenor, and augmented by his son, and grandson, the 
present noble owner. Rubens and Claude are seen to great 
advantage. Observe — 

Raphaei. (5): but, according to Passavant, not one by Raphael’s own 
band.— Murillo (3): one a large Landscape with Figures.— Velasquez 
(2): his own Head in a Cap and Feathers ; Prince of Spain on Horseback, 
small full-length.— Titian (3): the Woman taken in Adultery; a 
Grand Landscape; the Tribute Money.— Paul Veronese (3): Virgin 
and Child ; the Annunciation; Marriage at Cana; small finished Study 
for the Picture at Venice.— Guido (5): Infant Christ Sleeping (fine, 
engraved by Strange); LaFortuna; St. John Preaching; Holy Family; 
Adoration of the Shepherds.— Salvator Rosa (4) ; one, his own Portrait. 
— Claude (10): all important, and not one sea-piece among them.— 
N. Poussin (4) : Infants at Play (fine).— G. Poussin (3).— Le Brun (1); 
Alexander in the Tent of Darius (finished Study for the large picture in 
the Louvre).— Rembrandt (7) : his own Portrait; Portrait of Berghem: 
Ditto of Berghem’s Wife; the Salutation of Elizabeth (small and very 
fine); a Landscape with figures.— Rubens (11): Sarah dismissing Hagar; 
Ixion ; Rubens and his first wife, Elizabeth Brandt; Two Boy Angels; 
Landscape (small and fine); the Wise Men’s Offering; Conversion of 
St. Paul (sketch for Mr. Miles’s picture at Leigh Court) ; Four Colossal 
Pictures, painted when Rubens was in Spain, in 1629, and bought by Earl 
Grosvenor, in 1810, for 10,000Z.— Van Dyck (2): Virgin and Child; 
Portrait of Nicholas Laniere (this picture induced Charles I. to invite 
Van Dyck to England).— Paul Potter (1) : View over the Meadows of 
a Dairy Farm near the Hague, Sunset (fine).— Hobbema (2).— Gerard 
Douw (1). — CuYP (4).—Snyders (2). —Teniers (3). —Van Huysum (1). — 
Vandervelde (1).—WouvERM.\NS (1): a Horse Fair.— Hogarth (2): 
the Distressed Poet; a Boy and a Raven.— Sir Joshua Reynold,? (8) : 
-Mrs. Siddons, as the Tragic Muse, the original picture, cost 17601. 
(a masterpiece).— Gainsborough (3), all very fine: the Blue Boy; the 
Cottage Door; a Coast Scene.—R. Wilson (1): View on the River Dee 
—B. West (5): Battle of La Hogue; Death of General Wolfe; Wil¬ 
liam III. passing the Boyne; Cromwell dissolving the Long Parliament; 
Landing of Charles II. Admissioii —On Thursdays between 2 and 5 in 
the months of May and June by order granted by the Marquis of 
Westminster. 

LANSDOWNE HOUSE, on the S. side of Berkeley 
Square, was built by Robert Adam for the Marquis of Bute, 
when minister to George III., and sold by the marquis, before 
completion, to Lord Shelburne, afterwards Marquis of Lans- 
downe, for 22,000^., which was supposed to be 3000Z. less 
than it cost. Priestley was living in Lansdowne House as 
librarian and philosophic companion to Lord Shelburne, 
when he made the discovery of oxygen. The first cabinet 
council of Lord Grey’s administration was held in this 
iiouse; and here, at the same meeting, it was resolved that 
Brougham shotrld be Lord Chancellor. The Sculpture 
Gallery, commenced 1778, contains the collection formed by 
Gavin Hamilton, long a resident in Rome. At the E. end is 
a large semicircular recess, containing the most important 
statues. Down th» sides of the room are ranged the busts 


III.—LANSDOWNE—BRIDGEWATER HOUSE. 17 

and other objects of ancient art. Observe. —Statue of the 

Youthful Hercules, heroic size, found in 1790, with the 
Townley Discobolus, near Hadrian’s Villa ; Mercury, heroic 
size, found at Tor Columbaro, on the Appian Way. Here is 
a statue of a Sleeping Female, the last work of Canova; also, 
a copy of his Venus, the original of which is in the Pitti 
Palace at Florence. A marble statue of a Child holding an 
' alms-dish, by Rauch of Bei’lin, will repay attention. The 
_ Collection of Pictures was formed by the 3rd Marquis, 
1809-59. Observe. —St. John Preaching in the Wilderness, 
a small early picture by Raphael; half-length of Count 
Federigo da Bozzola, by Seb. del Piombo; full-length of Don 
Justino Francisco Neve, by Murillo; head of himself, head 
of the Count Duke d’Olivarez {Velasquez)', two good speci¬ 
mens of Schidone; Peg Woffington, by IlogartJi; 12 pic¬ 
tures by Sir Joshua Reynolds —including The Sleeping Girl, 
The Strawberry Girl, Hope Nursing Love, and the noble 
portrait of Laurence Sterne; Sir Robert Walpole, and his 
first wife, Catherine Shorter, by Echhart (in a frame by 
Gibbons—from Strawberry Hill); full-length of Pope, by 
Jervas; Porti’ait of Flaxman, by Jackson, RA.; Deer Stalkers 
returning from the hills (E. Landseer); Italian Peasants 
approaching Rome {Eastlake); Sir Roger de Coverley and 
the Spectator going to Church {O. R. Leslie); Sir Roger de 
Coverley and the Gipsies {ditto); Olivia’s return to her 
Parents, from the Vicar of Wakefield {G. S. Newton, iZ.A.); 
Macheath in Prison {ditto). Some of these have been re¬ 
moved to Bowood in Wiltshire, the country seat of the 
noble Marquis. The iron bars at the two ends of Lans- 
dowiie-passage (a near cut from Curzon-street to Hay-hill) 
were put up, late in the last century, in consequence of a 
mounted highwayman, who had committed a robbery in 
Piccadilly, having escaped from ftis pursuers through this 
narrow passage, by riding his horse up the steps. 

BRIDGEWATER HOUSE, St. Jaaies’s, fronts the Green 
Park, and was built 1846-51, from the designs of Sir Charles 
Barry, for Francis, Earl of Ellesmere, great nephew and 
principal heir of Francis Egerton, Duke of Bridgewater. 
The duke, dying in 1803, left his pictures, valued at 150,000^., 
to his nephew, the first Duke of Sutherland (then Marquis of 
Stafford), with remainder to the marquis’s second son, 
Francis, late Earl of Ellesmere. The collection contains 47 
of the finest of the Orleans pictures; and consists of 127 
Italian, Spanish and French pictures; 158 Flemish, Dutch, 

c 


18 


III.—BRIDGEWATER HOUSE. 


and German pictures; and 33 English and German pictures 
—some 322 in all. 

“ There is a deficiency of examples of the older Italian and German 
schools in this collection; but from the time of Raphael the series is more 
complete than in any private gallery I know, not excepting the Lichten- 
.stein Gallery at Vienna. The Caracci school can nowhere be studied to 
more advantage.”— 3Irs. Jameson. 

Observe. —(0. C. signifijing Orleans Collection.) 

Raphael (4) : la Vierge au Palmier (in a circle); one of two Madonnas 
painted at Florence in 1506 for his friend Taddeo Taddei, O.C.; la plus 
Belle des Vierges, O.C.; la Madonna del Passeggio, O.C.; la Vierge au 
DiadOne (from Sir J. Reynolds’s collection? ).—S. del Piojibo (1); the 
Entombment.— Luini (1): Female Head, O.C.— Titian (4); Diana and 
Actseon, O.C., (very fine); Diana and Calisto, O.C., (very fine); the 
Four ages of Life, O.C.; Venus Rising from the Sea, O.C.— Paul Ve- 
KONESE (2): the Judgment of Solomon; Venus bewailing the death of 
Adonis, O.C.— Tintoretto (3): Portrait of a Venetian Gentleman, O.C.; 
the Presentation in the Temple (small sketch); the Entombment, O.C. 
— Velasquez (3); Head of Himself; Philip IV. of Spain (small full- 
length) ; full-length of the natural son of the Duke d’Olivarez (life-size, 
and fine).— Salv.Rosa (2): les Angures (small oval, very fine).— Gaspar 
Poussin (4) : Landscapes.—N. Poussin (8): The Seven Sacraments of 
the Roman Catholic Church, O.C.; Mo.ses striking the Rock (very fine), 
O.C.— An. Caracci (7) : St. Gregory at Prayer; Vision of St. Francis, 
O.C.; Daniie, O.C.; St. John the Baptist, O.C.; same subject, O.C.; Christ 
on the Cross, O.C.; Diana and Calisto, O.C.—L. Caracci (6): Descent 
from the Cross, O.C.; Dream of St. Catherine; St. Francis; aPieth; 2 
Copies after Correggio.— Dojienicuino (5).— Guido (2) : Infant Christ 
sleeping on the Cross, O.C.; Assumption of the Virgin (altar-piece).— 
Guercino (2) : David and Abigail, O.C.; Saints adoring the Trinity 
(study).— Berghem(5).—Ruysdael(6).—Claude(4); Morning (a little 
picture); Moraing, with the story of Apuleius; Evening, Moses before the 
Burning Bush; Morning (composition picture).— Rembrandt (5): Samuel 
and Eli; Portrait of Himself; Portrait of a Burgomaster; Portrait of a 
Lady; Head of a Man. —Rubens (3): St.Theresa (sketch of the large picture 
in the Museum at Antwei-p); Mercury bearing Hebe to Olympus; Lady 
with a fan in her hand (half-length).— Van Dyck (1) : the Virgin and 
Child. —Backiiuysen (2). —Cuyp (6) : Landing of Prince Maurice at 
Dort (the masterpiece of this artist).— Vandervelde (7) : Rising of the 
Gale (very fine); Entrance to The Brill; a Calm; Two Naval Battles; 
a Fresh Breeze; View of the Texel.— Teniers (8): Dutch Kermis or 
Village Fair (76 figures); Village Wedding; Winter Scene in Flanders, 
the Traveller; Ninepins; Alchyinist in his Study; Two Interiors.— Jan 
Steen (2); the Schoolmaster (veiyfine); the Fishmonger. — A. Ostade (6): 
Interior of a Cottage; Lawyer in his Study; Village Alehouse; Dutch 
Peasant drinking a Health; Tric-Trac; Dutch Courtship.—G. Douw 
(3): Interior, with his own Portrait (very fine); Portrait of Himself; 
a Woman selling Herrings.- Terburg (1): Young Girl in white 
satin drapery.—N. Maes (1): a Girl at Work (very fine).— Hobbema 
(3). Metzu (3). —Philip Wouvermans (4).—1’eter AVouvermans (1) 
—Unknown (1):— Dobson (1): Head of Cleveland, the poet.— Lely : 
Countess of Middlesex (elegant).— Richard Wilson, R.A. (2).— G. S. 
Newton, R.A. (1): Young Lady hiding her face in'grief.—J. M. AA”! 
Turner, R.A. (1): Gale at Sea, (nearly as fine as the fine Vandervelde 
in this collection. Rising of the Gale).—F. Stone (1); Scene from 
I’hilip Van Artevelde.— Paul Delaroche (1): Charles I. in the Guard- 
room insulted by the soldiers of the Parliament. 


III.— CHESTERFIELD HOUSE. 19 

The house stands on the site of what was once Berkshire House, 
then Cleveland House, and afterwards Bridgewater House. 

Cards to view the Dridgewater Gallery can be obtained from 
IMessrs. Smith, 137, New Ilond-street. Days of admission, 2kIondays, 
Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays, from 10 till 5—Catalogues may be 
had at Messrs. Smith’s, and at the Gallery. 

CHESTERFIELD HOUSE, South Audlet-street, facing 
Hyde Park. The town-house of the Earl of Chesterfield, was 

sold, 1869, to-Magniac, Esq., who has built a row of 

houses on the gaj’dens behind. It was built by Isaac AVare, 
the editor of Palladio, for Philip, fourth Earl of Chesterfield, 
author of the celebrated Letters to his Son, and stands on 
ground belonging to Curzon, Earl Howe. The boudoir was 
called by Lord Chesterfield the gayest and most cheerful 
room in England, and the library the best. 

“In the magnificent mansion which the earl erected in Andley-street, 
you may still see his favourite apartments furnished and decorated as 
he left them—among the rest, what he boasted of as ‘ the finest room in 
London,’ and perhaps even now it remains unsurpassed, his spacious 
and beautiful library, looking on the finest private garden in London. 
The Avails are covered half way up with rich and classical stores of 
literature •, above the cases are in close series the portraits of eminent 
authors, French and English, Avitli most of Avhora he had conversed; 
over these, and immediately under the massive cornice, extend all round 
in foot-long capitals the lloratian lines:— 

NVNC . VETERUM . LIBRIS . XUXC . SOMXO. ET , TXERTIBUS . IIORIS. 

DUCERE . SOLICITiE . -TUCUXDA . OBLIVIA , VITA3. 

On the mantel-pieces and cabinets stand busts of old orators, inter¬ 
spersed with voluptuous vases and bronzes, antique or Italian, and airy 
statuettes in marble or alabaster, of nude or seminude Opera nymphs. 
“ We shall never recall that princelj' room Avithout fancying Chesterfield 
receiA’ing in it a visit of his only child’s mother—while probably some 
neAv favourite Avas sheltered in the dim mysterious little boudoir 
within—which still remains also in its original blue damask and fretted 
gold-AVork, as described to Madame de Jlonconseil.”— Quarterly Review, 
No. 152, p. 484. 

Lord Chesterfield, in his Letters to his Son, speaks of the 
Canonical pillars of his house, meaning the columns brought 
from Canons, the seat of the Duke of Chandos. The grand 
staircase came from the same magnificent house. Observe. — 
Portrait of the poet Spenser; Sir Thomas Lawrence’s un¬ 
finished portrait of himself; and a lantern of copper-gilt for 
18 candles, bought by the Earl of Chesterfield at the sale at 
Houghton, the seat of Sir Robert Walpole. Stanhope-street, 
adjoining the house (also built by Lord Chesterfield), stands 
on ground belonging to the Dean and Chapter of Westminster, 
Lord Chesterfield died (1773) in this house, desiring by will 
that his remains might be buried in the next burying-place 
to the place where he should die, and that the expense of his 
funeral might not exceed lOOZ. He was accordingly interred 



20 


HI.—HOLLAND HOUSE. 


in Grosvenor Chapel, in South Audley-street, but his remains 
were afterwards removed to Shelford in Nottinghamshire. 

HOLLAND HOUSE, Kensington, two miles from Hyde- 
Park-corner (during the life of the late Lord Holland, the 
meeting-place for Whig politicians, for poets, painters, critics, 
and scholars), a picturesque red brick and stone building, in 
Renaissance style, was built 1607 (John Thorpe, architect) for 
Sir Walter Cope, whose daughter and co-heir mariied Henry 
Rich (second son of Robert, Eaid of Warwick), created by 
King James I., Baron Kensington and Earl of Holland, and 
beheaded (1649) for services rendered to King Charles I. 
The widow of Robert Rich, Earl of Holland and Earl of 
Warwick, was married, in 1716, to Addison, the poet; and 
here, at Holland House, occurred that “awful scene,” as 
Johnson has called it, with the Earl of Warwick, a young 
man of veiy irregular life and loose opinions. “ I have sent 
for you,” said Addison, “ that you may see how a Christian 
can die ! ” after which he spoke with difficulty, and soon 
expired. On the death, in 1759, of Edward Rich, the last 
Earl of Holland and Warwick, the house descended by 
females to William Edwardes, created Baron Kensington, 
and by him was sold to Henry Fox, first Baron Holland of 
that name, and father of Charles James Fox. Lord Holland 
died here, July 1st, 1774. During his last illness, George 
Sel^n called and left his card; Sehvyn had a fondness for 
seeing dead bodies, and the dying lord, fully comprehending 
his feeling, is said to have remarked, “ If Mr. Selwyn calls 
again, show him up ; if I am alive I shall be delighted to see 
him, and if I am dead he would like to see me.” It contains 
a noble Library, of which John Allen was Librai’ian, and an 
interesting collection of family portraits. Chas. James Fox, 
as a youth, and his sisters, by Gainsborough. Chas. Fox, late 
in life, Addison (?). 

“ It will be a great pity when this ancient house must come down, and 
give way to rows and crescents. It is not that Holland House is fine as 
a building—on the contrary, it has a tumble-down look; and although 
decorated with the bastard-gothic of James I.’s time, the front is heavy. 
But it resembles many respectable matrons, who, having been abso¬ 
lutely ugly during youtb, acquire by age an air of dignity. But one is 
chiefly affected by the air of deep seclusion which is spread around the 
domain .”—Sir Walter Scott. 

The stone gateway close to the house (on the east) was de¬ 
signed by Inigo Jones, and carved by Nicholas Stone, master- 
mason to James I. The raised terrace in front was made 
in 1847-48. William III. and his queen resided in Holland 
House while negotiating for the purchase of what is now Ken¬ 
sington Palace. 


III.—BATH HOUSE. 


21 


BATH HOUSE, Piccadilly, No. 82, corner of Bolton- 
street. The residence of Lord Ashburton, built by Alexander 
Baring, fii’st Lord Ashburton (d. 1848), on the site of the 
old Bath House, the residence of the Pulteneys. Here is a 
noble collection of Works of Art, selected with great good 
taste, and at a great expense. Pictures of the Dutch and 
Flemish Schools form the main part of the collection. 


Observe. — TiiorwaLdsen’s IMercury as the Slayer of Argus. “ The 
transition from one action to anotliei’, as he ceases to play the flute 
and takes the sword, is expressed with incomparable animation.”— 
Waagen. — Leonardo da Vinci (?): the Infant Christ asleep in the 
arms of the Virgin; an Angel lifting the quilt from the bed.— Luini: 
Virgin and Child.— Correggio (?): St. Peter, St. Margaret, St. Mary 
Magdalene, and Anthony of Padua.— Giorgione : a Girl, with a very 
beautiful profile, lays one hand on the shoulder of her lover.— Titian : 
the Daughter of Herodias with the head of St. John.— Paul Veronese: 
Christ on the Mount of Olives (a cabinet picture).— Annibale Caracci: 
the Infant Christ asleep, and tlu’ee Angels.— Domenichino : Moses 
before the Burning Bush.— Guercino: St. Sebastian mourned by two 
Angels (a cabinet picture).— Murillo : St. Thomas of Villa Nueva, as 
a child, distributes alms among four Beggar-boys; the Madonna sur¬ 
rounded by Angels; the Virgin and Child on clouds surrounded by 
three Angels; Christ looking up to Heaven.— Velasquez: a Stag 
Hunt.— Kubens : the Wolf Hunt—a celebrated picture painted in 1612. 
“ The fire of a fine dappled grey horse, which carries Rubens himself, is 
expressed with incomparable animation. Next him, on a brown horse, 
is his first wife, Caroline Brant, with a falcon on her hand.”— Waagen. 
Rape of the Sabines; reconciliation of the Romans and Sabines. 
“ Both these sketches are admirably composed, and in every respect 
excellent; few pictures of Rubens, even of his most finished works, give 
a higher idea of his genius.”— Sir Joshua BeynoMs. — Vandyck: the 
Virgin Mary, with the Child upon her lap, and Joseph seated in a land¬ 
scape looking at the dance of eight Angels; Count Nassau in armour 
(three-quarter size); one of the Children of Charles I. with flowers 
(bust); Charles I. (full-length); Ilemdetta Maria (full-length).— Rem¬ 
brandt : Portrait of Himself at an advanced age; Portrait of a middle- 
aged Man; Lieven Von Coppenol (the celebrated writing-master) with 
a sheet of paper in his hand (very fine); two Portraits (Man and Wife). 
—G. Dow : a Hermit praying before a crucifix. “ Of all Dow’s pictures 
of this kind, this is carried the furthest in laborious execution.”— 
Waagen. — Terburg : a Girl in a yellow jacket, with a lute.—G. Metzu: 
a Girl in a scarlet jacket. “ In the soft bright manner of Metzu; 
sweetly true to nature, and in the most perfect harmony.”— Waagen .— 
Netscher : Boy leaning on the sill of a window, blowing bubbles. “ Of 
the best time of the master.”— Waagen. —A. Vanderwerff: St. Mar¬ 
garet treading on the vanquished Dragon. — J an Steen : an Alehouse, 
a composition of thirteen figures. “A real jewel.”— Waagen. Playing 
at Skittles.— De Hooge : a Street in Utrecht, a Woman and Child 
walking in the sunshine (very fine).— Teniers: the Seven Works of 
Mercy : the picture so celebrated by the name of La Manchot; Portrait 
of Himself (whole-length, in a black Spanish costume); Court Yard 
of a Village Alehouse; a Landscape, with Cows and Sheep.—A. Ostade; 
(Several fine).—I. Ostade : Village Alehouse.— Paul Potter : Cows, 
&c., marked with his name and the date 1652; Oxen butting each 
other in play; the Church Steeple of Haarlem at a distance.—A. Van- 
DERVELDE: the Hay Harvest; 'Three Cows, &c,— Berguem : “ Here we 


22 III.—HOLDERNESSE HOUSE—MANCHESTER HOUSE. 


see what the master could do.”— Waagen. —Karel r>u Jaedix : a ater- 
mill.— Philip Wouvermaxs.—Cuyp.—Wtxaxts.—Ruysdael.—Hob¬ 
bema.—W. Vaxdervelde : “ la petite Flotte.”— Backhuysen.—\ axdeb 
ilEVDEx: Market-place of Ilenskirk, near Haarlem. —Van Huysam: 
Flower Pieces,— Holbein: a Head.— Sir Joshua Reynolds: Head of 
Ariadne. 

HOLDERNESSE HOUSE, Park Lane, town residence 
of P’arl Vane, is one of the most splendid as well as con¬ 
veniently planned mansions in London (S. and B. Wyatt, 
architects), and commands a charming view over H 3 ^de Park. 
It is remarkable also for several fine works of art and vertu — 
some of them gifts of the Allied Sovereigns to the second 
Marquis of Londonderry—vases and tables of malachite. 
The grand gallery is very magnificent. 

Among the works of art are— Andrea del Sarto : a Holy Family, 
probably the finest work by the master in this country, from Count Fries’s 
gallery;—a fine Titian.—Lawrence: Portraits, whole length, of Lady 
Londonderry; of the Duke of Wellington in civil attire, 1814; of George 
IV., Ms.—By Hoppner: Wm. Pitt, three-quarter size:—the original. 
—? Hercules and Antams. 

Statues.—By Canova : Theseus and the Minotaur, perhaps his most 
splendid work.— Chantrey : Bust of the Minister, first Lord Londonderry. 
—Four Statuettes of Rosso Antico, of Victoiy—very fine:—gifts of Pope 
Pius VII. to the late Lord Londonderry.— Knight’s Waterloo and Pen¬ 
insular Heroes: Sevres Vase, six feet high—gift of Louis XVIII. 

HARCOURT HOUSE, Cavendish Square, west side, 
concealed by a high and dilapidated brick wall, the residence 
of Bentinck, Duke of Portland, one of the richest of the 
English aristocracy. It w^as built by Lord Binglej’’, and origin¬ 
ally called Bingley House. Within the enclosure of Cavendisli 
Square is a statue to the late Lord George Bentinck. 

HERTFORD HOUSE, Piccadilly, corner of Engine-street, 
built (1850-53) by Richard Seymour Conway, Marquis of 
Hertford—the fayade having formed part of the Pultenej’- 
Hotel, where the Emperor Alexander of Russia put up 
during the memorable visit of the Allied Sovereigns in 1814, 
and where the Duchess of Oldenburg (the Emperor Alex¬ 
ander’s sister) introduced Prince Leopold to the Princess 
Charlotte. 

MANCHESTER HOUSE, Manchester Square, - 

Wallace, Esq.; is one of the most sumptuous Mansious, and 
contains one of the very finest collections of paintings in 
London, formed chiefly, 1845 to 1860, by the late Marquis of 
Hertford, who spared no cost, and selected with good j udg- 
ment; many are purchases from the best portions of the gal¬ 
leries of the King of Holland and Marshal Soult. Observe .— 
The Water-Mill, the chef-d'oeuvre of Hobbema ; la Vierge de 
Pade, the masterpiece of Andrea del Sarto; Portraits of 


III.—SIR ROBERT PEEL’s—THOS. BARING, ESQ.’s. 23 

Philippe and Madame le Roy, two noble specimens of 
Vandyck ; Holy Family, by Ruhens (2478^.); the Unmerciful 
Servant, by Rembrandt, from Stowe, cost 2300Z.; Nell}’- 
O’Brien, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, one of the finest portraits 
in the world; Mrs. Braddyl; The Girl with a dog ; and 
Strawberry Girl, all by Reynolds', 4 Holy Families, Murillo; 
The Rainbow Landscape, Ruhens; The Rape of Europa, 
Titian; —16 Canalettos ; Views of Venice,— A. Ostade; The 
Fishmonger— Metzu; The Sportsman (cost 3000^.). 

Mrs. Henry T. Hope's celebrated collection of pictures 
(chiefly Dutch) formed at the Hague by the family of the 
Hopes—and described by Sir Joshua Reynolds—is not at 
present shown to the public. 

Vaxdyck: The Assumption of the Virgin; a faint picture. Charity. 

•— Rubens: The Shipwreck of iEneas; the clouds in Mr. Turner’s style. 
“ Highly poetical in the design, and executed in a most masterly manner 
in a deep full tone.”—TFaa^en.— Claude : Landscape.— S.Rosa: Land¬ 
scape.— Domenichixo : St. Sebiistian.— Giorgione: Judith -with the 
Head of Holofemes. —Rembrandt: Young Woman in an Arm-chair by 
which a Man is standing. “ One of the rare family portraits of this 
master in whole-length figures.”— Waagen .— Backhuysen: Sea Piece 
with Ships. “ A Large and capital picture.”— Sir J. R .— Netsciier : Lady 
at a Window with Pai-rot and Ape, marked 1664.— Jan Steen: An 
Oyster Feast, “ in which is introduced an excellent figure of Old Mieris, 
standing with his hands behind him.”— Sir J. Lairesse ; Death of 
Cleopatra.— Van der Helst : Halt of Travellers. “ In Van der Heist’s 
middle and best period.”— Waagen ,— Rembrandt: Our Saviour in the 
Tempest. “ In this picture there is a great effect of light, but it is 
carried to a degree of affectation.”— Sir J. R. — Terburg : The Music 
Lesson; the Trumpeter. — F. Mieris: A Gentleman with a Violin; a 
young Woman with her back turned is making out the reckoning, 
marked 1660. “This picture, painted when he was only twenty-six 
years of age, is one of his great master-pieces.” — Waagen. — JIetzu: 
Woman reading a Letter; AVoman writing a Letter.—S ciialken: Man 
reading by Candlelight. “ A carefully executed picture; the iinpasto 
particularly good.”— Waagen. — Ruysdael : Landscape, Cattle .and 
Figures. — Verkolje : David and Bathsheba. — A. Vanderveldk: 
Cattle at a AVatering-place; an evening scene; a ivonderful picture: 
perhaps the finest Adrian Vandervelde in the world.—P. de Hoogk; 
An interior, with Figures. “ Spoiled by cleaning.”— Waagen. —AA^'eenix : 
A Dead Swan and Dead Hare. “Perfect every way; beyond Flonde- 
koeter.”— Sir J. R. —T'anderwere : The Incredulity of St. Tlioinas.— 
D. Teniers : Soldiers playing at Backgammon.—G. Douw: “ A AVoman 
at a AVindow with a Hare in her Hand. Bright colouring and well 
drawn.” — D. Teniers : Soldiers Smoking.—P. Potter : Exterior of 
Stable—Cattle and Figures.—P. AVouvekmans: Halt of Hawking Party 
(fine).— A. Ostade: Exterior of Cottage with Figures.— Hobbema ; 
Wood Scenery. —Terburg: Trumpeter Av.aiting (fine).— AV’ouvermans : 
C.avaliers and Ladies, Bagpiper, &c. “ The best I ever saw.”— Sir J. R. 
— Metzu : Lady in blue velvet tunic and white satin petticoat. — 
CuYP: Cattle and a Shepherd. “ The best I ever saw of him; and 
the figure likewise is better than usual; but the employment which 
he has given the shepherd in his solitude is not very poetical.”— 
Sir J. R. — P. Gyzens : Dead Swan and small Birds. “ Highly finished 
and well coloured.”— Sir J. R. 


24 III.—BARON Rothschild’s—munro collection. 


THOMAS BARING, Esq., 41, Upper Grosvenor Street. 
A collection rich, not only in Italian, but also in French, 
Flemish, Dutch, and Spanish pictures of first class selectness. 

Sebast. del Piombo : Virgin, Child, and St John, with the Donor 
kneeling.— Raphael: Virgin, with the Child standing on her knees (per¬ 
haps by Lo Spagna.— Claude Lorraine: six Landscapes.— Domeni- 
CHiNo : Infant Christ holding a nail of his cross.— And. Mantegna: 
Ciirist on the Mount of Olives.— Murillo : the Virgin on the Crescent; 
A Laughing boy playing the Pipe; The Ascension, an octagon in shape ; 
Holy Family, Joseph working at the carpenter’s-bench.— Greuze: a 
Boy.— Rubens: Diana setting out for the Chase.—G. Dow: his own 
portrait, writing.— Terburg : a Girl drinking; a Girl wailing.— Metzu: 
the Intruder, a gentleman trying to force his way into a ladies’ dressing- 
room (500 guineas, from Verstolk Gallery)— Jan Steen : Himself sing¬ 
ing ; The Wedding.— Paul Potter: a young brown Bull, two Sheep, 
&c.— Teniers: 5 good works.— Ostade, A. & I.—C. Dujardin: Le 
Manage, horses and horsemen.—D. Wilkie : Sketches for Chelsea Pen¬ 
sioners; Rabbit on the Wall.— Mulready: Scene from Vicar of Wake¬ 
field.— Collins: 3 Landscapes.— Webster: Going into School, and 
Coming out.— Ccyp : View of the Maas; Cavalry Officers and Tents. 

HOUSE OF BARON LIONEL ROTHSCHILD, Picca¬ 
dilly, contains a few fine pictures ; good specimen of Cnyp, 
“ Skating; ” a choice De Hooghe, a good Greuze, Head of a 
Girl, and The Pinch of Snuff, an early work of Wilkie; with 
a noble collection of hanaps, cups, &c., of fourteenth and fif¬ 
teenth century woi’k ; rare old chiua, fine carvings in ivory, &c. 

DORCHESTER HOUSE, Park Lane, Hyde Park, 
residence of R. S. Holford, Esq. {Leiois Vulliamy, architect). 
A building of good design, and showing in its interior the 
most refined taste and splendour. The staircase, of white 
marble, is one of the most stately in London. Besides the 
picture gallery, it contains a most choice and valuable 
Library. —Among the pictures very fine specimen of Hobbema; 
View of Dort from the River, by Cuyp; Conde Duque 
Olivarez,and Philip IV.,by Abb^Scaglia, VandycTc ; 

good examples of Claude, Both, Isaac Ostade, &c.: Columbus 
by Wilkie. Greuze : Girl with a Pigeon. 

MUNRO COLLECTION, Hamilton Place, Piccadilly; 
last house ou right-hand side. Hon. H. Butler Johnstone. 

Observe. —The Lucca Madonna and Child, by Raphael; St. Francis 
Praying, a small picture by Filippo Lippi; Landscape by Oaspar 
Poussin, fine; Les Deux Petites Marquises, half-lengths, size of life, 
by Watteau, very fine; characteristic specimens of Jan Steen, one 
“ After a Repast,” very clever; also, good, if not choice, specimens of 
Cuyp, Vandervelde, Baclchuysen, &c. Mrs. Stanhope, half-length, in 
white, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, very fine ; 5 fine Landscapes, by Richard 
Wilson; large View in Venice, the masterpiece of Bonington; The 
Fishmarket, by Bonington; The Good Samaritan, by Etty, a choice 
specimen: 2 fine Italian Landscapes, by Turner, in the best time of his 
second period, and many other pictures and drawings by that master. 


IV.—HYDE PARK. 


25 


Other Private Collections of Paintings and of Art. 


Bale, C. Sackville, Esq., 71, 
Cambridge Terrace. 

Bai-ker, Alex., 103, Piccadilly 
—Italian Pictures: Holy 
Family, And. Verocchio 
(the most important of his 
works)— Lor. da Credi,&,c. 

Bromley, Miss. Davenport, 
' 32, Grosvenor Street. 

Caledon, Lord, 6, Carlton 
House Terrace. 

Cowper, Lady, St. James’s- 
square — 4 or 5 whole- 
length portraits by Van 
Dyck, &c. 

Ellis, Wynn, Esq., 30, Cado- 
gan Place. 


Morrison, Chas,, 93, Harley 
Street. 

Overstone, Lord, 2, Carlton 
Gardens, Dutch paintings, 
(Baron Verstolk’s), of the 
greatest excellence; also 
Opie's Portrait of Dr. 
Johnson. 

Robarts, A. J., 26, Hill Street, 
Berkeley Square. 

Ward, Lord, Dudley House, 
Park Lane, early Italian 
paintings, 5 works of 
Greuze. 

Yarborough, Lord, Arling¬ 
ton Street. 


IV.-PARKS AND PUBLIC GARDENS. 

HYDE PARK. A park of 388 acres, deservedly looked 
upon as one of the lungs of London, extending to Kensington 
Gardens, and thus carrying a continuous tract of open ground, 
or park, from Whitehall, to Kensington. The whole Park is 
intersected with well-kept footpaths, and the carriage drives 
are spacious, and, at certain hours, much frequented. The 
Park is accessible for private carriages, but hackney-coaches 
and cabs are excluded. The triple archway at Hyde-Park- 
corner, combined with an iron screen, was erected in 1828 
from the designs of Decimus Burton. It cost 17,069Z. Is. ^\d., 
including lOOOZ. to Mr. Henning for the bas-reliefs from the 
Elgin marbles which surround it. The Park derives its name 
from the Hyde, an ancient manor of that name adjoining 
Knightsbi'idge, and, until the dissolution of religious houses 
in the reign of Henry VIII., the property of the abbots and 
monks of Westminster. It then became the property of the 
Crown, For much of its present beauty it is indebted to 
William III., and Caroline, consort of George II. 

In this Park, in the London season, from May to August 
(between 11 and 1,' and 5^ and 7, may be seen all the 
wealth and fashion and splendid equipages of the nobility 
. and gentry of Great Britain. As many as 800 equestrians, 
including the Knot at the music, have been seen assembled 
at Hyde-Park in the height of the season. The bridle-road, 




26 


IV.—HYDE PARK. 


runniug east and west (from Apsley House to Kensington Gar¬ 
dens) is called Rotten Row^ a cormptioUjit is supposed, of Route 
du Roi —King’s Drive, The first set of horsemen are valetudi¬ 
narians, along with leading counsel, hard-worked baiaisters, 
and solicitors of eminence, some bankers, city merchants, 
taking their ‘‘constitutional” before breakfast. From 12 to 
2 the ride is sprinkled with the wives and daughters of our 
aristocracy, taking exercise with papas, brothers, or grooms ; 
increased by a few oflBcers and M.P.’s seeking fresh air after 
a night spent in the House of Commons. The flower-beds 
parallel with Park Lane, and those stretching W. from Hyde 
Park Gate, are a great additional ornament to this pleasant 
public resort. The sheet of water called the Serpentine was 
formed by Caroline, Queen of George II. The carriage- 
drive along the N. bank is called “The Lady’s Mile.” 
The boats may be hired by the hour. Certain traces of the 
King, formed in the reign of Charles I. and long celebrated, 
may be recognised by the large trees somewhat circularly 
arranged in the centre of the Park. Beyond the Humane 
Society’s Receiving-house (on the north bank of the Serpen¬ 
tine) and close to the bridge is the government stoi’e of 
gunpowder, kept ready for immediate use of the Garrison 
of London. A review of troops in Hyde Park is a sight 
worth seeing; they usually take place in June or July. Re¬ 
views or parades of Volunteei's are more frequent. Ohm've .— 
Statue of Achilles, “inscribed by the women of England, to 
Arthur, Duke of Wellington, and his brave companions in 
arms,” erected in Hyde Park, 18Lh of June, 1822, by com¬ 
mand of his Majesty George IV. The statue was cast by 
Sir R. Westmacott, R.A., from cannon taken in the victories 
of Salamanca, Vittoria, Toulouse, and Waterloo, and the 
cost was defrayed by a subscription of 10,000/., raised 
among the ladies. The figure is copied from one of the 
famous antiques on the Monte Cavallo, at Rome: so that 
the name Achilles is a misnomer. The Marble Arch, facing 
Great Cumbeiiand-street (near where the Tyburn tree for¬ 
merly stood) was moved from Buckingham Palace in 1850 
and re-erected here 1851. The original cost was 80,000/., and 
the cost of removal 11,000/. The equestrian statue of George 
IV., now in Trafalgar-square, was intended for the top of this 
arch. The sculpture on the S. front of arch by Baily; N. by 
Sir R. Westmacott. 

The Crystal Palace, or Great Exhibition Building of 1851 
(now re-erected and enlarged at Sydenham, in Kent), 
covered nearly 19 acres on the S. side of the Park, opposite 
Prince’s Gate. During the 24 weeks the Exhibition was 


ly. —HYDE PARK. 


27 






















28 


IV.—HYDE PARK—ALBERT MEMORIAL. 


open, it was visited by upwards of 6,000,000 persons, or 
about 250,000 weekly. The receipts exceeded 400,000^. 

Near the site of the first Crystal Palace, opposite the site of 
the second and the Horticultural Gardens, rises the National 
Monument to Albert Pnnce Consort: a Gothic Cross or Canopy, 
designed by G. G. Scott, R.A., rising in a spire 175 feet high, 
supported by four clustered piers of granite, held together 
by an invisible iron tie or girder, of ingenious construction, 
and serving as a shrine to enclose a colossal gilt statue of 
his Royal Highness sitting, by Foley. It is approached by 
flights of steps, occupying a square of 130 feet each way, of 
gi-ey Irish granite. The shafts of the four clustered columns 
supporting tlie Canopy are of red granite from the Duke 
of Argyle’s quarries in the isle of Mull. The mosaics are 
designed by Clayton and Bell, executed by Salviati. The 
marble is Sicilian. The building will cost 120,000^., raised 
by subscriptions of the public, including her Majesty’s 
bounteous contributions, and a grant of 50,000Z. made by 
Parliament. At the lower angles of the pyramid of steps 
are 4 groups of mai’ble statues—Europe by McDowell, Asia 
by Foley, Africa by Theed, and America by John Bell. Above 
these are smaller groups—Agi'iculture by Carder Marshall, 
Manufactures by Weehs, Commerce by Thornycroft, Engineer¬ 
ing by Lawlor. The entire basement, above the steps, is 
surrounded by a crowd of 200 life-sized figures, in high- 
relief, being portraits of the greatest artists, philosophers, 
men of Science and Literature, whom the world has pro¬ 
duced, by J. P. Philip and H. Armistead. The centi’al figure 
of the Prince, seated, will be of bronze gilt, 15 feet high, in 
the robes of the Garter. It is one of the grandest and most 
sumptuous monuments in the world. 

In 1866 Hyde Park railings, near Cumberland Gate, wex’e 
forced and torn up by a furious mob, excited by Reform agita¬ 
tors. Out of the police force stationed within the Park to pro¬ 
tect it, no fewer than 250 were sex’iously wounded, and nearly 
60 were so mutilated as to be x’exidered unfit for service, by 
brickbats huxded at them, or injux’ies othex’wise inflicted. 

ST. JAMES’S PARK. A park of 91 acx’es (shaped xiot 
unlike a boy’s kite), originally appertainiixg to the Palace of 
St. James’s; fix'st fox'med and walled ixi by Hexixy VIII.; x’e- 
planted and beautified by Chaxdes II.; and finally arranged by 
George IV., much as we now see it, in 1827-28-29. What 
I shall call the head of the kite is bordex'ed by three of the 
principal public offices: the Horse Guards in the centre, the 
Admiralty on its right, and the Treasury on its left. The 
tail of the kite is occupied by Buckingham Palace; its north 


IV.—ST. James’s park. 


29 


side by the Green Park, Stafford House, St. James’s Palace, 
Mai’lborough House, Carlton-House-terrace, and Carlton 
Hide; and its right or south side by Queen-square, and 
the Wellington Barracks for part of the Household Trpops, 
erected in 1834-59. The gravelled space in front of the Horse 
Guards is called the Parade, and formed a part of • the Tilt 
Yard of Whitehall: the north side is called the Mall, and the 
south the Birdcage-walk. Milton lived in a house in Petty 
France, with a garden reaching into the Birdcage-walk; Nell 
Gwyn in Pall Mall ; her garden Avith a mound and ter¬ 
race at the end, overlooking the Mall; and Lord Chancellor 
Jeffei-ies, in a large brick house N. of Storey’s Gate, pulled 
down 1868. St. James’s Park, with its broad gravel walks 
and winding sheet of water, was, till the time of Charles 
II., little more than a grass park, with a few trees irregularly 
planted, and a number of little ponds. Charles II. threw 
the several ponds (Rosamond’s Pond excepted) into one 
ai'tificial canal, built a decoy for ducks, a small ringfence for 
deer, planted trees in even ranks, and introduced broad 
gi’avel walks. Charles I., attended by Bishop Juxon and 
a regiment of foot walked, Jan. 30th, 1648-49, through this 
Park from St. James’s Palace to the scafiFold at Wliitehall. 
In this park Cromwell took Whitelocke aside and sounded 
the Memorialist on the subject of a King Oliver. Some of the 
trees in this Park, planted and Avatered by King Charles II. 
himself, were acorns from the royal oak at Boscobel; none, 
however, are noAV to be seen. St. Evremont, a French Epi¬ 
curean Avit, Avas keeper of the ducks in St. James’s Park in 
the reign of Charles II. 

The gardens forming the inner enclosure, laid out by 
Nash the architect (temp. George IV.), yield in picturesque¬ 
ness to those of no capital in Europe. The Avalks across 
them are enlivened by glimpses of the numerous fine build¬ 
ings aroAind. In 1857 a chain bridge, for foot passengers, was 
thrown across the Avater, betAveen Queen-square and St. 
James’s-street, and the lake bed was cleared out and raised, 
so that the greatest depth of AA^ater does not exceed 4 ft. 
Hence, the annual sacrifice of life, from a portion of the crowd 
who throng the ice in Avinter, falling in, need no more occur. 

Observe .—On the Parade near the Horse Guards, the Mortar 
cast at Seville, by order of Napoleon, employed by Soult at 
Cadiz, where it threw a shell more than three miles, and Avas 
left behind in the retreat of the French army after the battle 
of Salamanca. It was presented to the Prince Regent by the 
Spanish government, and is mounted on a bronze dragon. 
On the opposite side of the Parade is a Turkish gun taken 


30 IV.—ST. James’s park and its vicinity. 



ST. JAMES’S AND GREEN PARKS. 




































IV.—GREEN PARK—regent’s PARK. 31 

from the French in Egypt. The Park was lighted with gas 
in 1822. The road connecting St. James’s Park with Hyde 
Park, and skirting the garden wall of Buckingham Palace, 
now called Constitution llill, was long known as “ The King's 
Coach-way to Kensington.” Kear the tipper end of this road 
Sir Robert Peel was thrown (1850) from his horse and killed. 
In this road Queen Victoria has been fired at by three idiots 
on three several occasions. 

GREEN PARK. An open area of 60 acres between 
Piccadilly and St. James’s Park, Constitution-hill, and the 
houses of Arlington-street and St. James’s-place. It was occa¬ 
sionally called Upper St. James’s Park. Observe. — On the 
E. side of the Park, Stafford House, the residence of the 
Duke of Sutherland; Bridgexoater Hoi^se, the residence of 
the Earl of Ellesmere; Spencer Ilotise, the residence of Earl 
Spencer; the brick house with five windows, built in 1747, 
by Flitcroft, for the celebrated Lady Hervey; 22, St. James’s- 
j>lace, distinguished by bow windows, residence of the Poet 
Rogers; in Arlington-street, Earl of YarhorougKs, built by 
Kent, for Henry Pelham, and the modern mansion of the 
Iklarquis of Salisbury, built 1872, The small gardens attached 
to the houses belong to the Crown, but are let on lease to the 
owners of the houses. In this park, fronting the houses in 
Arlington-street, was fought the duel with swords, between 
Mr. Pulteney, afterwards Earl of Bath, and John, Lord 
Hervey, the Fanny of the poet Pope. 

REGENT’S PARK, a park of 472 acres, part of old Mary- 
lebonc Park, for a long time disparked, and familiarly known 
as Marylebone Farm and Fields. On the expiration of a 
Crown lease held by the Duke of Portland, the present 
Park was laid out in 1812, from the plans of Mr, John 
Nash, Architect, who also planned the terraces except York 
and Cornwall-terraces, designed by Decimus Burton. The 
Park derives its name from the Prince Regent, afterwards 
George IV., who intended building a residence here on the 
N.E. side. Regent-street was designed as a communication 
from it to Carlton House. The Crown Property comprises, 
besides the Park, the upper part of Portland-place, from 
No. 8,—the Park-crescent and square, Albany, Osnaburgh, and 
the adjoining cross streets, York and Cumberland-terraces, 
Regent’s-Partbasin, and Augustus-street, Park-villages E. and 
W., and the outer road. The domed building on the S.E. side 
is the Colosseum, built to contain a Panorama of London. 
The Zoological Gardens occupy a large portion of the upper 
end of the Park {see Index). The liolme^ a villa in the 


32 


TV.—regent’s park—victoria park. 


centre of the Park, was erected by Mi\ William Burton, 
architect, who covered with houses the Foundling Hospital 
and Skinner estates. South Villa, the residence of Geo. 
Bishop, Esq,, includes an Observatory, well known from Mr. 
Hind’s discoveries of stars and comets made there. Through 
the midst of the Park, on a line with Portland-place, and 
along the E, side of the Zoological Gardens, runs a fine 
broad avenue lined with rows of trees, from which footpaths 
ramify across the sward in all directions, interspersed with 
ornamental plantations and flower beds. Around the Park 
runs an agreeable drive nearly two miles long. An inner 
drive, in the form of a circle, encloses the Botanic Gardens. 
Contiguous to this Inner Circle is St John's Lodge, seat of Sir 
Francis Goldsmid, overlooking a bea\itiful sheet of water, 
also the garden of the Toxophilite Society. St, Dunstan's Villa, 
on the south-west side of the Park, was erected by Decimus 
Burton, for the Mai-quis of Hertford (d, 1842). In its gardens 
are placed the identical clock and automaton strikers which 
once adorned St. Dunstan’s Church in Fleet-street. When 
old St. Dunstan’s was pulled down the giants were put up 
to auction, and the marquis became their purchaser. They 
still do duty in striking the hours and quarters. 

In the chapel of St. Katherine's Hospital, on the E. side 
of the Park, is the tomb of John Holland, Duke of Exeter 
(d, 1447), and his two wives; and a pulpit of wood, the gift 
of Sir Julius Caesar, This institution, the houses of the 
adjoining parish, and the churchyard were both removed, in 
1827, from St. Katherine’s at the Tower, to make way for 
St. Kathex-ine’s Docks. 

Separated from Regent’s Park by two roads and the canal 
rises Primrose Hill, which has been planted and laid out 
with walks, so as to convert it into a public garden. Its 
summit commands a very extensive view. 

VICTORIA PARK, Bethnal Green, a park of 265 acres, 
planted and laid out in the reign of Victoria. The first 
cost of formation was covered by the pui’chase-money I'e- 
ceived from the Duke of Sutherland for the Crown lease of 
York House, St. James’s, sold in 1841 for 72,000Z. It is 
judiciously planted, and contains a picturesque sheet of 
water, with row boats. In the midst rises a very handsome 
d^rinking Fountain, a gothic structure of granite 60 feet high, 
erected at a cost of 6000^. by Miss Burdett Coutts. This 
Park serves as a lung for the K. E. part of London, and has 
already added to the health of the 550,000 inhabitants of 
Spitalfields and Bethnal-green. 


I 


IV.—PvliGENT’s PAUi: 


33 



j<OAo Tj City. 


To Great 
/estem Railway 


URGENT’S PAKK. 


1) 



























34 IV.—BATTERSEA PARR.—KENSINGTON GARDENS. 


The French Hospice {see Index), rising on the outskirts, is a 
picturesque modern building. 

BATTERSEA PARK. A pleasure ground of 185 acres, 
almost all below the level of high tide, on the right bank of the 
Thames opposite Chelsea Hospital, converted between 1852- 
58 from marshy fields, on one of which occurred the duel 
between the Duke of Wellington and Lord Winchelsea, into 
a public park at a cost of 312,890^., of which 246,517^. was 
paid for the ground. Laid out with ornamental plantations, 
and rich flower-beds varied by a fine sheet of water, and 
intersected by roads and walks, it presents great attractions. 

The Sub-Tropical Garden, of 4 acres, filled with half-hardy 
plants, is a triumph of modei-n horticulture. It is admirably 
kept, its well disposed parterres renewed with fresh flowers 
at each I'ecurring season of the year, and as the plantations 
grow up is yearly increasing in beauty. It is approached 
from Pimlico by an iron suspension bridge over the Thames, 
of fanciful design, executed by Mr. Page, which cost 85,319Z. 
and was completed 1858. 

111,439Z. has been laid out on the Chelsea embankment, 
bordering the left bank of the Thames from Pimlico to 
Vauxhall bridge. 

FINSBURY PARK, 1867, 120 acres, cost 95,000Z., for¬ 
merly Hornsey Wood, between Holloway and Seven Sisters 
Road. It is skirted by the Great Northern Railway, and the 
New River passes through it. 

SOUTHWARK PARK, Rotherhithe, 62 acres, cost 
55,1601. 

The HORTICULTURAL GARDENS, South Kensington, 
are described in section xxii. 

KENSINGTON GARDENS. Pleasure-grounds attached 
to Kensington Palace {see Index), and open to the public, but 
not to be traversed by carriages. The stranger in London 
should, during the London season, make a point of visiting 
these Gardens when the band plays. The Gardens are then 
filled with gaily-dressed promenaders, and the German will 
be reminded of the scene in the Prater. Kensington Gar¬ 
dens were laid out in the reign of William III., by London 
and Wise, and originally consisted of only 26 acres; Queen 
Anne added 30 under Bridgeman’s superintendence, and 
Caroline (Queen of George II.) 300 under the care of Kent. 
The Serpentine was formed 1730-33; and the bridge over 
it, separating the Gardens from Hyde Park, was designed by 
Rennie, and erected 1826. The beautiful wrought iron gates 



Mat 


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CH«NCn.LCIRS 




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CHANCELLORS C' 


WE6T COUKtOOK 


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ftE«6 

LQIBV 


ROYAL CILLERY 


SPEARERS 


PURS COURT 


INNFJ COURT 


ROYAL COURT 


PEEtS LIBRARV CORRIDQIt 


ECta COM* COtRlOOR 


PEERS 


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py' OF THE NEW HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT, 


GROUND 











































































































V.—HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 


35 


facing Rotten Row, wei’e tlie entrance gates to tlie S. transept 
of the Ci’ystal Palace of 1851, and made at Colebrook Dale. 


V.-HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 

THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT, or The New Palace 
AT Westminster, on the left bank of the Thames, between 
the river and Westminster Abbey, Admission on Saturdays, 
by tickets obtained on the spot. {See below.) This is one 
of the most magnificent buildings ever erected continuously 
in Europe—probably the largest Gothic edifice in the world. 
It occupies the site of the old Royal Palace at Westminster, 
burnt down Oct. 16th, 1834,'and covers an ai’ea of nearly 8 
acres. It has 100 staircases, 1100 apartments, and more 
than 2 miles of corridors ! The building is warmed through 
16 miles of steam pipes, and the gas for one year costs 
3505Z. The cost has exceeded two millions sterling. 
The architect was Sir Charles Barry, and the first stone 
was laid April 27th, 1840. In its style and character the 
building reminds us of those grand civic palaces, the town- 
halls of the Low Countries,—at Ypres, Ghent, Louvain, 
and Brussels—and a similarity in its destination renders 
the adoption of that style more appropriate than any form 
of classic architecture. The stone employed for the e.vternal 
masonry is a magnesian limestone from Anston in York- , 
shire, selected with great care from all the building stones 
of England by scientific commissioners appointed in 1839for 
that purpose. The River Terrace is of Aberdeen granite. 
There is very little wood about the building ; all the main 
beams and joists are of iron. The River Front, may be 
considered the principal. This magnificent fa 9 ade, 900 
feet in length, is divided into five principal compartments, 
panelled with tracery, and decorated with rows of statues and 
shields of arms of the Kings and Queens of England, from the 
Conquest to the present time. The Land Front, including a 
new fa 9 ade to enclose the Law Courts, is not yet completed. 

The Royal or Victoria Tower, at the S.-W. angle, one of the 
most stupendous works of the kind in the world, contains 
the Royal Entrance, is 75 feet square, and rises to the 
height of 340 feet, or 64 feet less than the height of the cross 
of St. Paul’s. The entrance archway is 65 feet in height, 
and the roof is a rich and beautifully worked groined stone 
vault, while the interior is decorated with the statues of the 
patron saints of England, Scotland, and Ireland, and with 
statues of her present Majesty, supported by Justice and 
Mercy. This stately tower (supplying what Wren con- 



36 


V.—HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 


sidered Westminster was so much in need of) was finished 
by slow degrees in 1857, the architect deeming it of impor¬ 
tance that the works should not proceed, for fear of settle¬ 
ments, at a greater rate than 30 feet a-year. In this tower 
are deposited the Acts of Parliament for ma^y centuries, 
removed from the Chapter House. The Central Spire, 60 feet 
in diameter, and 300 feet high, I’ises above the Grand Centi'al 
Octagonal Hall. Its exquisitely groined stone vault is sup¬ 
ported without a pillar. 

The ClocTc Tower (the Befifroi ” of London) abutting on 
Westminster Bridge, 40 feet square, and surmounted above 
the clock with a decorated roof, rises to the height of about 
320 feet. Various other subordinate towers, by their pictu¬ 
resque forms and positions, add materially to the effect of 
the whole building. 

The Palace Clock in the Cloch Tower, constructed under 
the direction and approval of Mr. Aiiy, the Astronomer 
Royal, is an eight-day clock, striking the hours and chiming 
the quarters upon eight bells, and showing the time upon 
four dials about 30 feet in diameter. The diameter of the 
dial at St. Paul’s is only 18 feet. The Great Bell (Stephen) 
was cast 1858 ; it weighs more than 8 tons, but has been 
cracked like its predecessor. Big Ben. 

The Westminster Bridge end of the Palace contains the 
apartments of the Speaker and the Serjeant-at-arms, and the 
Vauxhall Bridge end the apartments of the Usher of the 
Black Rod and the Lords’ librarian. Above these a long 
range of rooms has been appropriated to Committees of 
either House. The statues in and about the building exceed 
ill number 450, and are by the late John Thomas. 

The Cloister Court, surrounded by a richly groined and 
traceiied cloister of 2 stories, of which the upper story is a 
creation of Sir Charles Barry, is one of the finest features in 
the building. It is for the most part a restoration, is 49 
feet 6 inches from E. to W., and 63 feet from N. to S. It 
is open to members of the house, but not to the public. 

The principal public Entrances are through Westminster 
Hall, and Old Palace Yard :—both lead into the Central 
Octagon Hall, whence the right hand passage will take you 
to the Lords, and the left to the Commons. Westminster 
Hall, and the crypt of St. Stephen's Chapel have been 
skilfully incorporated into the new building. 

Westminster Hall was, down to the present age of colossal 
railway stations, the largest roofed hall in the world un¬ 
supported by pillars. It was somewhat altered internally, 
by Barry, to make it accord with the rest of his building. 


V.—HOUSES OF FARLl AMENT.—WESTMINSTER HALL. 37 

That architect planned that the walls, below the windows, 
sliould be decorated with a seiies of historical paintings, 
and that there should be two tiers of pedestals, to be 
occupied by figures of those eminent Eifglishnien to whom 
Parliament may decree the honour of a statue. The con¬ 
ception is grand, and appropriate to the building in 
which so many Englishmen have been distinguished. (For 
Westminster Hall, see Section xvr.) A small staircase de¬ 
scends from the S.E. corner of the hall into the crypt of 
St. Stephen's beneath the modern St. Stephen’s Hall, and 
is the only fragment of the ancient Palace of Westminster 
which escaped the fire (see a in Plan). This interesting 
example of English architecture of the 13th century has 
undei'gone a careful restoration. The walls and roof are 
decorated with paintings, the windows with coloured glass. 
It is fitted up as a chapel, and prayers are said in it daily for 
the use of members of Parliament. 

The Royal Entrance is under the Victoria Tower, and 
leads to the Norman Porch, so called from the frescoes 
illustrative of the Norman history of this country and 
the figures of the Norman Kings, with which it is to be 
decorated. 

On the right hand is the Rohiny Room, facing the river, 
decorated with frescoes by Dyce, li.A., from the Legend of 
King Arthur. After the ceremony of robing, which takes 
place in this room, her Majesty passes through a magni¬ 
ficent chamber 110 feet in length, 45 in width, and 45 feet 
high, called the Victoria Gallery, decorated with frescoes of 
events from the history of England, with stained glass windows 
and a ceiling rich in gilding and heraldry. On one side is the 
meeting of Wellington and Blucher after the Battle of Water¬ 
loo at la Belle Alliance (at which place they did not meet). The 
death of Nelson occupies the oj)posite wall,—both are by 
Maclise, R.A., and executed in the water-glass fresco process. 
Passing thence, her Majesty enters the Prince’s Chamber, 
lined with wood carvings and portraits of the Tudor and 
Stuart sovereigns, and containing a marble group by Gibson, 
of the Queen supported by Justice and Mercy. In the Peers' 
Robing Room is the fresco of Moses bringing down the 
Law, by Mr. Herbert, the result of six and a half years’ hard 
labour. For Mr. Herbert's Judgment of Daniel the nation 
has paid £5,000. 

The House of Peers, 97 feet long, 45 wide, and 45 high, a 
noble room, first opened April 15th, 1847, presenting a coiip 
d'oeil of the utmost magnificence, no expense having been 
spared to make it one of the richest chambers in the woi’ld. 
The spectator is hardly aware, however, of the lavish rich- 


38 


V.—HOUSE OF LORDS. 


ness of its fittings from the masterly way in which all are 
harmoniously blended, each detail, however beautiful and 
intricate in itself, bearing only its due part in the general 
effect. Observe. —The Throne, on which her Majesty sits 
when she attends the House, with the chair for the Prince 
of Wales; the Woolsack, in the centre of the House, on which 
the Lord Chancellor sits; the Reporters’ Gallery (facing the 
Throne); the Strangers’ Gallery (immediately above); the 
Frescoes (the first, on a large scale, executed in this country), 
ill the six compartments, three at either end, viz.. The Bap¬ 
tism of Ethelbert, by Dyce, R.A. (over the Throne); Edwai’d 
III. conferring the Order of the Garter on the Black Prince, 
and Henry, Prince of Wales, committed to pi’ison for assault¬ 
ing Judge Gascoigne, both by Cope, R.A.; the Spirit of 
Religion, by Horsley, A.R.A., in the centre compartment, 
over the Strangers’ Gallery ; and the Spirit of Chivalry, and 
the Spirit of Law, by Maclise, R.A. The 12 figure windows 
are filled with stained glass, and are lighted at night from 
the outside. Between the windows, and at either end of 
the house, are 18 niches, for statues of the Magna Ciiarta 
barons, carved by Thomas. Immediately beneath the windows 
runs a light and elegant gallery of brass work, filled in 
compartments with coloured mastic, in imitation of enamel. 
On the cornice beneath the gallery are the arms of the Sove¬ 
reigns and Chancellors of England, from Edward III. to the 
present time. 

A Lord Chamberlain's order or Peeress' ticlcet, for ladies only, 
to the Galleries or Area of the House of Lords, when her 
Majesty opens, prorogues, or dissolves Parliament, is highly 
prized. The sight is one of the grandest and most impressive 
courtly displays still surviving in Britain. The peers come 
in their robes, the heralds in tabards, and all officials in civil 
or military costume. The opening of Parliament is generally 
in February, the prorogation in July. On these occasions the 
gallery, which directly fronts the throne, is set apart for ladies 
in evening dress. Failing to obtain admission here, a seat in the 
“ Royal Galleiy,” or corridor, through which the procession 
twice passes, affords an admirable view of the Queen and her 
great officers. Gentlemen as well as ladies are admitted 
hei’e, but sit in separate places. It is not etiquette to ex¬ 
amine the Sovereign through a lorgnette. To obtain a good 
seat, you should be in the House of Lords by half-past 12, for 
the carriages of strangers are not suffered to pass the barriers 
later than one, and it is a crowded and dirty struggle to get 
to the House after that hour. The' arrival of her Majesty is 
announced within the House by the booming of the cannon. 
Her entrance is preceded by the Heralds in their rich dresses. 


V.—HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 


39 


and by some of the chief officers of state in their robes. All 
the peers are in their robes. The Speech is presented to her 
Majesty by the Lord Chancellor kneeling, and is read by 
her Majesty or by him; the Royal Princes and Princesses 
with the Mistress of the Robes and one of the ladies of 
the bedchamber standing hy her side oii the dais. The 
return to Buckingham Palace is by 3 at the latest. The 
address to her Majesty in both houses is.moved at 5 the same 
evening; and the debate, therefore, is always looked to with 
great interest. The old custom of examining the cellars 
underneath the House of Lords, about two hours before 
her Majesty’s arrival, still continues to be observed. The 
custom had its origin in the infamous Gunpowder plot 
of 1605. 

The House of Commons, 62 feet long by 45 feet broad, and 45 
feet high, is more simple in character than the House of 
Peers :—the ceiling is, however, of nearly equal beauty. The 
windows are filled with stained glass, of a simple character; 
the walls are lined with oak lichly carved, and, supported 
on carved shafts and brackets, is a gallery extending along 
them, on either side. At the N. end is the chair for the 
Speaker, over which is a gallery for visitors, and for the 
reporters of the debates; while the S. end is occupied by 
deep galleries for the Members of the House, and for the 
public. The Entrance for the Members is either by the public 
approaches, or a private door and staircase from the Star 
Chamber Court (one of the twelve Courts lighting the inte¬ 
rior), so called from occupying the site of that once dreaded 
tribunal. England and AVales return 500 members, Ireland 
105, and Scotland 53, making in all 658 members composing 
the House of Commons, 

St. Stephen*s Hall, leading from Westminster Hall to the 
Great Central Hall, is 95 feet long by 30 wide, and to the 
apex of the stone groining 56 feet high. It derives its name 
from occupying the s^ame space as St. Stephen’s Chapel of 
the ancient Palace, ^nid is lined by 12 “statues of Parlia¬ 
mentary statesmen who rose to eminence by the eloquence 
and abilities they displayed in the House of Commons.” 
They ai’e : Hampden, by Bell ; Falkland, by Foley ; Clarendon, 
by Marshall', Selden, by Bell', Sir Robert Walpole, Lords 
Somers and Mansfield, Lord Chatham, Charles Fox; William 
Pitt, by McBoxcal ; Burke, by Theed ; and Grattan. 

The Central or Octagon Hall is a grand apartment 80 ft. 
high, covered with a groined stone roof containing more 
than 250 elaborately carved bosses. From this hall corri- 
dor.s extend, rt. to the House of Lords, and 1. to the 
House of Commons. On the walls of these corridors are 


40 


V.—HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 


painted The last sleep of Argyle befoi’e his Execution, The 
Burial of Charles I., The Execution of Montrose. Capture 
of Alice Lisle, Departure of the Pilgrim Fathers, all^ by 
E. N. Ward; “Charles I. erecting his Standard at Notting¬ 
ham,” by R. Pickersgill, A.R.A.; and “Speaker Lenthall 
asserting the Privilege of the Commons, when Charles I. 
attempted to seize the five members,” by Cross.^ 

The Upper Waiting Hall, or Pods' Hall, will contain 8 
frescoes from 8 British poets—viz., Chaucer, Spenser, Shak- 
speare, Milton, Dryden, Pope, Scott, and Byron. Some have 
been completed. The Chaucer, by C. W. Cope, R.A., repre¬ 
senting a scene from Griselda; the Shakspeare,by /, R. Herbert, 
iZ.A., Lear and his Daughter; the Milton, by/. C. Satan 

starting at the toiich of Ithuriel’s Spear; andtheDi’yden, by 
John Tenniel, St. Cecilia. 

Admission to Inspect the House of Lords —free tickets for 
Saturdays to be obtained at the Chamberlain’s Office in the 
court next the Victoi’ia Towei’. Admission to the Strangers' 
Oallery to hear the debates —a peei'’s order. Up to 4 p.m., 
during the hearing of appeal cases, the House is open to the 
public. 

Admission to the Commons —a speaker’s order admits under 
the gallery to a very few select seats, and a member’s order, 
which any member can give, to the Strangers’ Gallery. 
If you know an M.P., go to the lobby with the member’s 
name written on your card; at the door of the House you 
will see a good-tempered old gentleman, with a powdered 
head, sitting in a watch-box. If you civilly ask him, he 
will send your card into the House, and thus fetch out 
the member you have named. Take care to stand on one 
side, out of the thoroughfare to the door or you will be 
warned off by a policeman. Admission to the Stx-angers’ 
Gallery is secured to those holding a member’s ticket in 
the order of their arrival; doors are opened at 4, but many 
persons arrive on the spot some hours before, on occasions 
of debates of any importance. On the occasion of an interest¬ 
ing debate the House seldom idses before 2 o’clock in the 
morning. Ladies have been excluded from the interior of 
the House since 1738. There is, however, a small gallery 
(above that of the Reporters), behind whose grating the 
ladies are invisible, and enjoy an imperfect view of the 
House. The Speaker takes the chair at 5 p.m., when 
prayers are read, and business commences. The House 
invariably thins out about dinner-time, 7 p.m., and refills 
about 9 p.m. The best nights are Mondays and Fridays. 
On Wednesdays the House sits only from noon to 6 p.m. 
Unless forty members are present there is no House. The 


VI.—THE TIIAMES.—THAMES EMBANKMENT. 41 

entire cost of erecting the Houses of Parliament, down to 
1858, was 1,768,979Z., as far as the architect was concerned ; 
but including other charges it has now swelled to nearly 
three millions / 

Note.— For a detailed and graphic account of the usual proceedings 
in the House of Commons, refer to an article in the Quarterly Beview 
for June, 1854. 

VI.-THE THAMES, ITS QUAYS, EMBANKMENT, 
AND BRIDGES; THAMES TUNNEL, POOL AND 
PORT OF LONDON. 

The Thames, on whose banks, about 60 miles above its 
embouchure in the North Sea, London is situated, is the 
noblest commercial river in the world, in reference to its 
length. It has hitherto been almost concealed from view 
of its inhabitants and degraded into a common sewer. The 
tide ascends as high as Richmond and Teddington, where it 
is a clear flowing stream ; still higher up, from Maiden¬ 
head to Reading, its course is marked by picturesque beauty 
of a very high order. About Pangbourne it is pastoral 
and pretty ; and at the Nore and Sheerness, where the 
Medway joins it, it is an estuary where the British navy 
may sail, or ride safely at anchor. At very high tides, 
and after long easterly winds, the water at Loudon Bridge 
is often brackish. Spenser calls it “The silver-streaming 
Thames.” Denham has sung its praises in some noble 
couplets— 

“ O could I flow like thee, aud make thy stream 
My great example, as it is my theme! 

Though deep j'et clear, though gentle yet not dull, 

Strong without rage, without o’erflowing full.” 

And Pope described its banks with the accuracy of a Dutch 
painter in his ludicrous imitation of Spenser’s manuei’. 

The first steam-boat seen on the Thames Avas in 1816. 

The London visitor should make a point of descending the 
Thames by a steamboat from Chelsea to Blackwall, a voyage 
of 14 hour. The objects, principally on the left or Middlesex 
bank, are enumerated in the order in which they present 
themselves. (See Thames, at end of volume.) 

THl^ VICTORIA EMBANKMENT, or Thames Quay.— 
While the Seine at Paris, a far inferior stream to the Thames, 
contributes one of the most beautiful features to the 
French metropolis, the Londoners have hitherto persisted 
in shutting out from sight their far more magnificent 
river, inclosing it with mean hovels and black coal wharves, 
and converting its stream into a sewer. Many schemes for 
embanking the Thames have been suggested. It formed 



42 VI.—THAMES EMBANKMENT.—PORT OF LONDON. 

part of Sir Cliristoplier Wren’s magnificent plan for making 
London a grand city. After him followed, at a long inter¬ 
val, that of John Martiu, the painter, but nothing was done 
until 1864, when the Metropolitan Board of Works took 
the matter in hand. In 1865, The Victona Emhanlcment and 
Quay was commenced along the left bank of tlie Thames, 
and it was finished, 1870, from AVestminster Bridge to 
the Temple and Blackfriars Bridge. It consists of a 
solid river wall of granite 8 ft. thick, 40 ft. high, and 
7000 ft. long, founded 16 to 30 ft. below low water mark. 
It affords a roadway 100 ft. wide, beneath which are carried 
two tunnels, the lower is the great intercepting Sewer, the 
upper for water, gas pipes, and telegi’aph wires, Avhich can be 
repaired or removed without disturbing the roadway. Paral¬ 
lel with the river, underground, the Metropolitan District 
Eailway runs. The space gained from the river varies in 
w’idth from 200 to 450 ft., and amounts to about 30 acres, 
leaving space for gardens and various new public buildings, 
also for Public Statues of Great Men, the late AarZ of Derby 
(by Noble), Gen. Outrarn, See. The cost is reckoned at 
1 ,200,000Z., and the pux’chase of property and compensations 
at 450,000k This does not include the lines of approach to bo 
made from Charing Cross, Whitehall Place, Villiers Street, 
Norfolk Street, and from the Mansion House to Blackfriars 
Bridge, The money is derived partly from rates and partly 
from dues levied on coal and wine brought into London. 

The Albert Embankment of the Thames extends along the 
right bank from Lambeth to Westminster Bridge, opposite 
the Houses of Parliament. It has also a wall of granite, 
a roadway 60 feet wide, and 4300 feet long. It has cost 
309,000k and 771,616 for land. On it stands St. Thomas’s 
Hospital {see Index). The Embankment of the left bank, 
from Chelsea to Pimlico Bridge, was begun 1871. 

The Port of London,\egsl\y so called, extends 6^ miles below 
London Bridge to a point called Bugsby’s Hole, over against 
Blackwall; but the Port itself does not reach beyond Lime- 
house. Nearly 50,000 vessels enter and leave the Thames 
in 12 months, or on an average 120 daily. The Customs 
duties paid at this Port amount to nearly 12 millions ster¬ 
ling per annum, or nearly one-half of the duties paid in the 
United Kingdom. The Pool is that part of the Thames 
between London Bridge and Cuckold’s Point, where colliers 
and other vessels lie at anchor. It is said that no vessel 
of more than 300 tons is seen navigating above London 
Bridge. For some account of the Docks, see post. Commer¬ 
cial Buildings, &c. 

Every master of a collier is required, upon reaching 


VI.—LONDON BRIDGE. 


43 


Gravesend, to nottfy the arrival of his vessel to the officer 
npon the spot; and then he receives a direction to proceed 
to one of the stations appointed for the anchorage of colliers. 
There are seven of these stations on different Reaches of the 
river. The ships are then directed to proceed in turn to the 
Pool, where about 250 are provided with stations in tiers 
at which they remain for a limited time to unload. 

“ This morning was fair and bright, and we had a passage thiiher 
[^from London to Gravesend], I tliink as pleasant as can be conceived, 
lor take it with all its advantages, particularly the number of fine ships 
you are always sure of seeing by the way, there is nothing to equal it in 
all the rivers in the world. The yards of Deptford and Woolwich are 
noble sights. . . . We saw likewise several Indiamen just I’eturned 
from their voyage. . . . The colliers likewise, which are very 

numerous and even assemble in fleets, are ships of great bulk; and if 
Ave descend to those used in the American, African, and European trades, 
and pass through those Avhich visit our OAvn coasts, to the small craft that 
lie between Chatham and the Tower, the Avhole forms a most pleasing 
object to the eye, as Avell as highly Avarming to the heart of an English¬ 
man, Avho has any degree of love for his country, or can recognise any 
effect of the patriot in his constitution.”— Fielding, A Voyage to Lisbon. 

LONDON BRIDGE, 928 feet long, of five semi-elliptical 
arches, built from the designs of John Rennie, a native of Scot¬ 
land, and of his sons, John and George. The first stone was 
laid June 15th, 1825, and the bridge publicly opened by 
William IV., August Ist, 1831. It is built of granite, and 
cost, including the approaches, 2,566,268Z., defrayed out of 
the funds of the Bridge House Estate. Tlie centre arch is 152 
feet span, with a rise above high-water mark of 29 feet 6 
inches; the tAvo arches next the centre are 140 feet in span, 
with a rise of 27 feet 6 inches; and the two abutment arches 
are 130 feet span, with a rise of 24 feet 6 inches. The piers 
of the .centre arch have sunk about six inches, owing, it is 
said by Telford and Walker, to over-piling. The lamp-posts 
are made from cannon taken in the Peninsular War. It is 
the last bridge over the Thames, or the one nearest to the 
sea, and is 54 feet wide, or 11 feet more than Waterloo. 

It has been ascertained that the number of carriages of all 
descriptions, and equestrians, who daily pass along London 
Bridge in the course of 24 hours exceeds 20,000; and that 
the number of pedestrians who pass across the bridge daily 
during the same space of time, is not fewer than 107,000. 

By police arrangement since 1854, vehicles of slow traffic 
travel at the sides, the quick in the centre. The oldest Loudon 
Bridge was of wood, and was first erected in 1209. 

The present low-Avater mark at London Bridge is 18 feet 
11 inches below the Trinity House datum. Previous to 
1832, when the old bridge Avas removed, it AA’as only 15 feet 
4 inches. In severe Avinters the starlings of the old bridge 


44 


VI.—CHARING CROSS BRIDGE. 


arresting the floating ice, at times caused the river to be 
frozen over. This is not likely to occur again since the impe¬ 
diments of the old bridge have been removed. These have 
given an increase of half-a-mile an hour to the pace with 
which the flood-tide ascends. 

The SOUTH EASTERN RAILWAY BRIDGE carries 
that railway from Charing Cross and London Bridge stations 
to Cannon Street terminus. It is of iron; five arches, two of 
135 ft., three central 167 ft. span, resting on 16 cylinder piers. 

SOUTHWARK BRIDGE, 708 feet long, of three cast-iron 
arches, resting on stone piers, designed by John Rennie, and 
erected by a public company, at an expense of about 800,000Z. 
The first stone was laid April 23rd, 1815; and the bridge 
publicly opened April, 1819. The span of the centre arch is 
402 feet (38 feet wider than the height of the Monument, 
and the largest span of any arch in the w’orld until the 
tubular bridges were made.) The entire weight of iron is 
about 5780 tons. The penny toll was abolished 1865, and 
the bridge purchased by the City for 218,868Z. from the pro¬ 
prietors, 1866-68, and thrown open to the public. The cost of 
proper approaches would require (at the least) 150,000^. more. 

BLACKFRIARS BRIDGE. The old bridge of 4 arches, 
built 1760-69 by Robert Mylne, having failed in its piers 
and also in accommodating the increasing multitudes who 
passed over it, is replaced by a new one of iron, 75 feet wide. 
William Cubitt, engineer, 1864-69. Its granite piers were 
built on hollow iron piles, sunk into the clay, from which 
the water was pumped out, and the intervening space filled 
with concrete, after which the iron above the surface was 
di’awn out. The five arches are composed of 9 parallel ribs 
of wrought iron, riveted; it is 1272 ft. long, including the 
granite abutments. The central arch is 185 ft. span. The 
total cost 320,000Z. This bridge affords a stately and im¬ 
posing view of St. Paul’s Cathedral and Bow Church steeple, 
surmounted by its dragon. Half of the beauty of this bridge 
is destroyed by the close proximity of the hideous Alex¬ 
andra Lattice Bridge of the London Chatham and Dover 
Railway, carrying four lines of rails to Ludgate Hill station, 
1040 feet long, 55 feet wide; central span 202 feet. It w^as 
built in 2 years. 

CHARING-CROSS or Hungerford Bridge crosses the 
Thames from the Charing Cross Railway Station to Belvedere 
Road, Lambeth, and was built in 1863 by the South Eastern 
Railway Company in oi'der to carry their line aci’oss the 
Thames to a station in the heart of Western London. It 


VI.—^^VESTMINSTER BRIDGE. 


45 


replaces Huugerford Suspension Bridge, built 1846, for foot 
passengers only, which has been sold for 85,0001. and 
removed to Clifton. The new Railway Bridge, which also 
admits foot passengers at the side, is of iron lattice resting 
on 6 or 7 cylinder and two brick piers, forming 8 spans 70 
ft. wide. Its width is sufficient for 4 lines of rails, and 
a footway 14 ft. broad. Mr. Hawkshaw was the Engineer. 
Toll for foot passengers one halfpenny. 

AVATERLOO BRIDGE, perhaps the noblest bridge in the 
world, was built by a public company pursuant to an act 
passed in 1809. The first stone was laid 1811, and the 
bridge opened on the second anniversary of the battle of 
Waterloo, June 18th, 1817. It is said to have cost above a 
million. The engineer was John Rennie, son of a farmer at 
Phantassie, in East Lothian—the engineer of many of our 
celebrated docks and of the breakwater at Plymouth. 

“ Canova, when he was asked during his visit to England what struck 
him most forcibly, is said to have replied—that the trumpery Chinese 
Bridge, then in St. James’s Park, should be the production of the Govern¬ 
ment, Avhilst that of Waterloo was the work of a Private Company.”— 
Quarterly Review, No. 112, p. 309. 

M. Dupin calls it “ a colossal monument worthy of Sesostris 
and the Caesars.” It consists of nine elliptical arches of 120 
feet span, and 35 feet high, supported on piers 20 feet wide 
at the springing of the arches. The bridge is 1380 feet long, 
43 feet wide, the approach from the Strand 310 feet, and the 
causeway on the Surrey side, as far as supported by the land- 
arches, 766 feet, thus raising it to a level with the Sti’and, and 
uniform throughout. This bridge affords a noble view of 
Somerset-house, the chef-d'oeuvre of Sir AVilliam Chambers. 
The toll charged is a halfpenny each person each way, and the 
receipts from foot-passengers in a half-year were iO'iOl.l'Js.lld., 
received from 2,244,910 persons. The proprietors offer to 
sell the tolls for 700,000^. 

WESTMINSTER BRIDGE, built from designs of Mr. 
Page, 1856-62, is double the width of the old bridge, measur¬ 
ing 85 feet, and consists of seven arches of iron (that in 
the centre 120 feet span) resting on stone piers, whose 
foundations descend 30 feet below low water. It is 
1160 feet long, and the centre arch rises 22 feet above 
high water. The rise in the centre is only 5 feet 4 in. 
The piers rest on bearing piles of elm, driven 20 feet into 
the London clay, and are cased with iron piles closely united, 
forming a sort of permanent coffer-dam. Upon these is 
laid a stratum of concrete, forming a foundation for the 
blocks of Cornish granite used in the stone work. The csti- 


46 


VI.—THE THAMES TUNNEL. 

mated cost was 216,000Z. The arches are arrauged in one 
continuous curve from side to side of the river, an agreeable 
novelty. It is a very elegant structure, its roadway, wider 
than any other bridge in the world, commanding perhaps 
the best view of the Houses of Parliament. The bridge 
which this replaces, was the second stone bridge over the 
Thames. It was built by Labelye, a Swiss, 1739-1750, on 
caissons of timber, floated to the spot destined for the 
piers, and then sunk. It was surmounted by a lofty parapet, 
which M. Grosley, a French traveller, gravely asserted 
was placed there in order to prevent the English propensity 
to suicide; but the real intention of Labelye was to secure a 
sufficient weight of masonry to keep his caissons to their 
proper level. The scour caused in the river bed by the 
removal of Old London Bridge effectually undermined 
several of the piere, whose foundations lay only 6 feet 
beneath low watei*. 

LAMBETH BRIDGE, from Lambeth Church to Horse- 
ferry Road. An iron wdre suspension bridge of 3 spans each 
of 280 feet, supporting an iron platform, hung from rigid 
lattice bars resting on double cylinder piers. Peter Barlow, 
Engineer, 1862. Cost 40,000^. 

VAUXHALL BRIDGE. An iron bridge, of nine equal 
arches, over the Thames between Vauxhall and Millbauk, 
built from the designs of James Walker, 1811-1816. It is 
the property of a private company, toll \cl., 2d. each hoi’se. 
It is 798 feet long, and 36 feet wide, and is built on caissons. 

PIMLICO RAILWAY BRIDGE carries several railways 
to Victoria Station. 

PIMLICO SUSPENSION BRIDGE leads to Battersea Park. 
It was made at Edinburgh, under Arthur’s Seat. 

THE THAMES TUNNEL, 2 miles below London Bridge, 
is easily reached by the numerous steam-boats plying on the 
Thames, but is now used for the passage of the East 
London Raihvay, projected to connect the Great Eastern 
and other lines north of Thames wdth the Brighton and those 
on the S., through the tunnel. It extends beneath the bed 
of the river Thames, connecting Wapping, on the left bank, 
with Rotherhithe, or Redriff, on the right. This great work—a 
monument of the skill, energy, and enterprise of Sir Isambard 
K. Brunei (d. 1849), by whom it was planned, carried out 
through great difficulties, and finally completed—was com¬ 
menced March 2nd, 1825, closed for seven years by an inun¬ 
dation which filled the whole tunnel with water, Aug. 12th, 
1828, recommenced Jan. 1835 (thousands of sacks of clay 


VII.—THE TREASURY. 


47 


liaving been thrown in the intervcal into the river-bed above 
it), and opened to the public, ]\rarch 25th, 1843. The idea 
of the shield, upon which Brunei’s plan of tunnelling was 
founded, was suggested to him by the oi^erations of the 
teredo, a testaceous worm, covered with a cylindrical shell, 
which eats its way through the hardest 'wood at the bottom 
of the sea. Brunei’s shield consisted of 12 separate timber 
frames, each of 3 stages or 36 cells in all. In these cells the 
miners worked, protected by the shield above and in front, 
and backed by the bricklayers behind, who built up as fast 
as the miners advanced. Government lent 247,000^., in 
Exchequer Bills, to advance the Avorks, and the total cost is 
468,000/. The yearly amount of tolls and receipts being 
under 6000/., which barely sufficed to cover the expenditure, 
including that arising from the constant influx of land springs, 
the Tunnel was sold in 1865 for 200,000/. by the Thames 
Tunnel Company to the East London Bailway Company, for 
the line connecting the Great Eastern and North London Rail¬ 
ways Avith the railways on the south of the Thames. The 
Tunnel consists of tAvo arched passages, 1200 feet long, 14 feet 
Avide, 16^ feet high, separated by a Avail of brick 4 feet thick, 
with 64 arched openings in it. The croAvn of the arch is 16 
feet beloAv the bottom of the river. 

The Thames Subway —To relieve the enormous traffic which chokes np 
London Bridge, a New Tunnel has been formed a little lower doAvn the 
river from Tower Hill to Tooley-street. It Avas made in less than 12 
months, at a cost r f only £16,000. It is .about 60 feet below the surface, 
Avas carried under the river, through the London clay, by means of a 
shield, and is lined with iron hoops or rings, forming an iron tube 74 ft. 
diameter. It is 1330 ft. long. Engineer, W. P. Barlow, Esq. 


VIl.-GOVERNMENT OFFICES. 

THE TREASURY, Whitehall. Along range of building, 
between the Horse Guards and DoAAming-street, so called 
from its being the office of the Lord High Treasurer; an 
office of great importance, first put into commission in 1612, 
on Lord Salisbury’s death, and so continued Avith very fcAV 
exceptions till the present time. The prime minister of the 
country is ahvays First Lord of the Treasury, and enjoys a 
salary of 5000/. a year, the same as the Chancellor of the 
Exchequer, but smaller in amount than the salaries of the 
Lord Chancellor and of the Lord Chief Justice. He has also 
an official residence in DoAvning-street. All the great money 
transactions of the nation ai’e conducted here. The Lord 
High Treasurer used formerly to carry a Avliite staff, as the 
mark of his office. The royal throne still remains at the 
head of the Treasury table. The present facade toAA^ard the 



48 


VII.—NEW PUBLIC OFFICES. 


street was built (1846-47), by Sir Charles Barry, to replace 
a heavy front, the work of Sir John Soane. The core of the 
building is of an earlier date, ranging from Ripley’s time, in 
the reign of George I., to the times of Kent and Soane. The 
building called “ the Treasury” includes the Board of Trade, 
the Home, and Privy Council offices. 

PRIVY COUNCIL OFFICE, Downing Street, White¬ 
hall, is part of the S. end of the range of Treasury build¬ 
ings. Here the Judicial Committee of the Privy Council meets 
to hear appeals, &c. Here are kept the minutes of the Privy 
Councils of the Crown, commencing in 1540. A minute of 
the reign of James II. contains the original depositions 
attesting the birth of the Prince of Wales, afterwards known 
as the Old Pretender. 

THE HOME OFFICE, in which the business of the 
Secretary of State for the Home Department {i.e. Great 
Britain and Ireland) is conducted, is in part of the Treasury 
buildings, until Mr. Scott’s New Office is ready. The salary 
of the Secretary is 5000/. a year, and his duty is to see 
that the laws of the country are observed at home. His 
office is one of great importance, and is always a Cabinet 
apj)ointment. 

NEW PUBLIC OFFICES. A grand edifice of vast ex¬ 
tent, of Italian architecture, from the designs of G. G. Scott, 
was built 1868-70 between Downing-street and Charles-street, 
extending thence to St. James’s-park and Parliament-street. 
It contains—the Home, Foreign, Colonial, and the East India 
Offices: 40,000/. was granted by Parliament for the site alone, 
and the estimate for the building was 200,000/. 

*** The public are admitted on Friday, 12 to 3, to see 
the chief rooms of the Foreign and Indian offices, also the 
East Indian Museum, on delivering their cards to the porter. 

FOREIGN OFFICE, occupies the N.W. corner. The 
exterior is enriched by much sculptural decoration. The 
interior quadrangle is very eflective. The grand staircase 
is of marble and very splendid, with much gold; so is the 
Conference Room, measuring 66 ft. long and 35 feet high. 
The chief officer is a Cabinet Minister, and is called the 
“Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs.” His salary is 5000/. 
a year. The Cabinet Councils of her Majesty’s Ministers 
are held generally at the Foreign office, or at the residence 
of the Chancellor of the Exchequer, also in Downing Street. 

Passports are here issued by the Foreign Secretary to Bri¬ 
tish subjects recommended by a banker, at a charge of 2s. 
(^See Handhooh for Travellers on the Continent.) 


VII.—INDIA OFFICE—EXCHEQUER 


49 


THE COLONIAL OFFICE, Downing Street —Govern¬ 
ment office for conducting the business between Great 
Britain and her 44 colonies, will occupy the side of the 
Public Offices next to Parliament-street. The head of the 
office is called the “Secretary for the Colonies,” and is 
always a Cabinet Minister. His salary is 6000/. In a small 
waiting-room in the old building, the Duke of Wellington, 
then Sir Arthur Wellesley, and Lord Nelson, both waiting 
to see the Secretary of State, met, the only time in their 
lives. The duke knew Nelson from his pictures. Lord 
Nelson did not know the duke, but was so struck with his 
conversation that he stept out of the room to inquire who 
he was. 

THE INDIA OFFICE, entered from Charles-street, was 
removed from the East India House, Leadenhall-street, 1860. 
The government of India by the East India Company, the 
largest and most magnificent the world ever saw, first incor¬ 
porated 1600, came to an end through Act of Parliament, 
Sept, 1, 1858, when it was transferred to the ministers of 
the crown, with a Council of 12 members under a Secretary 
of State, having their offices in this building. The cost of it 
was defrayed out of the finances of India. 

THE EAST INDIA MUSEUM, in the upper story of 
the building, is shown on Friday. (See Index.) 

The private business of the East India Company is now 
carried on in a small office, in Moorgate-street. The India 
House in Leadenhall-street was pulled down in 1861. 

THE EXCHEQUER, or, Office of the Chancellor 
OP THE Exchequer. The principal office for fixing or 
receiving taxes is in Downing-street. The word Exchequer 
is derived from a four-cornered board, about 10 feet long 
and 5 feet broad, fitted in the manner of a table for men 
to sit about; on every side whereof was a standing ledge 
or border, 4 fingers broad. Upon this board was laid a 
cloth, parti-coloured, which the heralds call Chequy, and 
round this board the old Court of Exchequer was held. 
The Chancellor was one of the judges of the Court, and 
in ancient times he sat as such, together with the Lord 
Treasurer and the Barons. His duties since 4th William IV., 
c, 15, are entirely ministerial; the annual nomination of 
sherife being the only occasion on which the Chancellor takes 
his seat at the Court of Exchequer in Westminster Hall. 
The salary of the Chancellor is 5000/. a year, with a house 
in Downing-street and a seat in the Cabinet. The income of 
Great Britain and Ireland, paid into the Exchequer, has been 
for some years upwards of 70 millions sterling. 


E 


50 


VII.—CUSTOM HOUSE-WOODS, FORESTS. 


SECRETARY OF STATE FOR WAR, established during 
the war with Russia, 1854-56, when the offices of Secretary 
at War and Mas ter-General of the Ordnance were united 
(with other powers). The affairs of the Army arc managed 
at the War Office, Horse Guards, and the old Ordnance 
Office, 86, Pall Mall, built for the Duke of Cumberland (d. 
1767), brother of George HI., to which Buckingham House 
(to the east) is added. (See Horse Guards). 

THE CUSTOM HOUSE is in Lower Thames-street, facing 
the river. It was erected 1814-17 from the designs of 
David Laing, but in consequence of some defects in the 
piling, the original centre gave way, and the present front, 
to the Thames, erected by Sir Robert Smirke. Nearly one- 
half of the customs of the United Kingdom are collected 
in the Port of London, and about one-half of the persons 
in the Civil Service of the country are employed in duties 
connected with the collection. In London alone, upwards of 
2230 persons are employed in and attached to the London 
Custom House, and maintained at an annual expense of 
about 275,000^. The customs dues levied at the port of 
London in one year amounts to 12,000,000^.—exceeding con¬ 
siderably the amount paid in all the other ports of the 
empire together. Liverpool, after London, is the next gi’eat 
port, but collects only 2,393,445?. The average Customs 
revenue in the last nine years is about 20 millions, and 
the duties are conducted by commissioners appointed by 
the Crown. Seizures are stored in the Queen’s warehouse, 
and when the warehouse is full there is a public sale. 
These sales (some four a year) produce about 5000?. They 
are pi'incipally attended by Jews and brokers. The sales 
take place in Mark Lane, while the goods are on view at a 
different place. Observe .—The “Long Room,” 190 feet long 
by 66 broad. The Quay is a pleasant walk fronting the 
Thames. Hither CoAvper, the poet, came, intending to make 
away with himself. 

OFFICE OF HER MAJESTY’S WOODS, FORESTS, 
AND LAND REVENUES, 1 and 2, Whitehall-place. This 
office is managed by two Commissioners. The forests have 
not yielded a profit for many years, so that the chief revenue 
of the office has been derived from the Crown property in 
houses in the Bailiwick of St. James, Westminster, and 
in the Regent’s Park. The principal forest belonging to the 
Crovm is the New Forest in Hampshire, formed by William 
the Conqueror, and in which William Rufus was slain. 


VII.—POST-OFFICE. 


51 


OFFICE OF WORKS AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS, 12, 
Whitehall-place, presided over by a Commissioner who is a 
Member of the Government. 

THE GENERAL POST-OFFICE, near St. Paul’s, 
Cheapslde, and Newgate Street, on the site of the 
church of St. Martin’s-le-Grand, was built 1825-29, from 
the designs of Sir R. Smirke, R.A. It is managed by a 
Post-Master-General, and one permanent Secretary, to¬ 
gether with a staff of clerks, sorters, letter-carriers, &c., 
amounting to 24,800 persons (1,500 belonging to the 
chief office, 3,300 to the London District). In 1840 the 
penny-post w^as introduced, which at first caused a loss of 
revenue, but now yields, after paying all expenses, 1^ 
million sterling. [See Introduction, § 20.] The cost of manage¬ 
ment is about 2,000,000^.; the gross receipts 3,500,000^. 
The Government Postage alone, in one year, varies from 
140,000?. to 160,000?. The number of letters delivered in 
a year exceeds 800,000,000, or ten-fold the number de¬ 
livered before the reduction of the postage to one penny 
for eveiy letter not exceeding half an ounce, and the num¬ 
ber of newspapers has risen from 42 to 100 millions in a 
year. The number of letters delivered in the London 
district, compi*ising a radius of 12 miles round the Post- 
Office in St. Martin’s-le-Grand, is 6,270,000, far more than 
that delivered, under the old system, in the whole United 
Kingdom. Post-Office Money-Orders for sums not exceeding 
10 ?., are issued at the several offices at the following rates: 
—For any sum not exceeding 10s. one penny; 1?, twopence ; 
above 2?. and not exceeding 5?., sixpence; above 51. and not 
exceeding 7?., ninepence; above 7?. and not exceeding 10?., 
one shilling. From this source alone the revenue receives 
more than 60,000?. yeai'ly. A Posted Official Circular, contain¬ 
ing a statement of the arrival and departure of packet-boat.?, of 
unclaimed letters, &c., is published every morning, under the 
authority of the Post-Master-General. Letters for departure 
the same night are received at this office later than at any 
other office. Some notion of the extent of business carried on 
in this hive of industry may be obtained from the fact, that 
the weekly wages of the London District Post alone amount 
to 1300?. 

In 1838 there were 3,000 post-offices in England and 
Wales, now there are 11,000. As recently as 1826, there 
was but one receiving-office, in Pimlico, for letters to bo 
delivered within the London radius; and the nearest office 
for receiving general post letters, that a person living in 

E 2 


52 


VII.—POST-OFFICE. 


Pimlico could go to, was situated in St. James’s-street. In 
1856-57 Iron Receiving Posts, or Road Letter-Boxes, properly 
secured, and inserted in the pavement, were placed in the 
principal thoroughfares of London. There are now 2,000 of 
these. A person posting a letter early to a friend in town, 
may receive a reply and send a rejoinder on the same day. 
No house in Loudon is more than a furlong distant from a 
Letter Box, or than ^ of a mile from a Money-Order Oflfice. 

Mail-coaches, for the conveyance of letters, were intro¬ 
duced in 1784, by Mr. Palmer; and the first conveyance of 
the kind left London for Bristol on the evening of the 24th 
of August, 1784. The penny postage (introduced by the 
exertions of Sir Rowland Hill) Jan. 10, 1840, was fol¬ 
lowed, 1848, by the improved system of sorting letters in 
I’ailvvay trains or on steamers, and by the book and parcel 
post. The Money-Order Office, shows a staff of 300 clerks 
and 4000 pigeon holes for the communications of the same 
number of Money-Order Offices throughout the United 
Kingdom. The orders issued in one year for the United 
Kingdom amount to 20 million pounds sterling, and in 
addition 500,000^. of Foreign Post Office Orders are paid 
here. 

In 1854 the average weight of the Post-Office mail-bags 
that left London daily w'as 279 cwt., of which 219 cwt. 
consisted of newspapers. 100,000,000 new^spapers and book 
parcels are delivered in one year. 

General Directions. — Letters addressed “ Post-Office, 
London,” or “ Poste Refstante, London,” are delivered only 
at the General Post-Office, St. Martin’s-le-Grand from 10 a.m. 
to 4 p.M. When the person applying for letters is a 
foreigner, he must produce his passport; or if he does not 
apply in person, must send it by the messenger along with 
a written order, signed and dated by himself. If the 
applicant for the letters is a subject of the United King¬ 
dom, he must be able to state from what place or district 
he expects letters befoi’e he can receive them. Foreign 
letters addressed ‘‘Post-Office,” or “Poste Restante, London,” 
are retained for two months at the Post-Office. Inland lettei-s 
similarly addressed are retained one month; after the ex¬ 
piration of these periods both classes of letters are respec¬ 
tively sent to the Dead Letter-Office, to be disposed of in the 
usual manner. In 1856 London and its environs were divided 
into postal districts. [See p. 38*, Introddction.] The di¬ 
visions between them can be shown only on a map. Each 
of these districts has its own centre for sorters, and in each 
there is a delivery every hour: a street list published by 


VII. — PAYMASTER-general’s OFFICE—HORSE GUARDS. 53 

the Post-Office gives the initials of the district after every 
street, and the public are invited to add these initials to the 
addresses of letters in order to facilitate rapid delivery. The 
Penny Queen’s Heads are engraved, printed, and gummed 
at 6d. per thousand. (See Introduction.) 

GENERAL TELEGRAPH OFFICE, St. Martin’s-le- 
Grand, corner of Newgate-street. In 1870, by Act of Par¬ 
liament, the Electro-Telegraphs throughout the country 
became the property of the Government, by purchase for 
7 millions. 

Opposite the Post Office a large supplemental edifice has 
been erected to accommodate the business of the Tele¬ 
graphs, which is placed under the management of the G.P.O. 
The same building includes the Money Order Office, now 
extended to the Colonies and France. The P. 0. Savings 
Banks, which were started 1861, at the suggestion of Mr. 
Sykes, of Huddersfield, already comprise 12,000,000 sterling 
of savings. 

This building also contains reception-rooms for the 
Postmaster-General, his secretary and clerks; and on the 
ground floor steam engines for despatching, by pneumatic 
tubes, letter-bags to various railway stations. 

PAYMASTER-GENERAL’S OFFICE, Whitehall, next 
the Horse Guards. The office of her Majesty’s Paymaster- 
General for the payment of army, navy, ordnance, civil 
services, and exchequer bills, salaries, pensions, &c. The 
office is managed by a paymastei’, an assistant-paymaster, and 
a stafi* of sixty clerks. It was originally the office of the 
Paym^ter-General of the Forces, and was not permanently 
enlarged till 1836, when the offices of Treasurer of the Navy 
and Treasurer of the Ordnance were abolished. This office 
is yearly increasing in importance, and already makes nearly 
all the national payments in detail. 

Quarterly payments of salaries are made on and after the 
8 th day of April, July, October, and January. 

HORSE GUARDS, at Whitehall. A guard-house and 
public building where the Commander-in-Chief, the Adjutant- 
General, Quartermaster-General, &c., have their offices. It 
was built about 1753, after a design furnished, it is said, by 
Kent. The ai’chway under it forms a principal entrance to 
St. James’s Park from Whitehall; but the entree for carriages 
is permitted only to royal personages and others having leave. 
At each side of the entrance facing Whitehall a mounted 


o4 


VII.—THE ADMIRALTY. 


cavalry soldier stands sentry every day from 10 to 4, The 
guard is relieved every morning at a quarter to 11. The 
pay of the General Commanding-in-Chief is 9/. 95. 6d a day ; 
of the Adjutant-General, 31. 15s. lOd. a day; and of the 
Quartermaster-General, 81. 15s. lOd. a day. The Adjutant- 
General is responsible to the Commander-in-Chief for the 
arming, clothing, training, recruiting, discipline, and general 
efficiency of the army; the Quartermastei’-General carries 
out the orders of the Commandei’-in-Chief as regards the 
movements and quarters of the troops. * The management 
of the army by Horse Guards and AVar Office, by 673 
clerks and 82 superior officei’S costs 250,000^. per annum. 
The troops are divided into Household Troops, the Ord¬ 
nance Corps, and the Line. A private of the Life Guards 
has l5. ll:|d. a day, and a private of the Horse Guards 
l5. S^d. a day; the difference arising from an oversight in 
1796, in not withdrawing barrack allowances from the pri¬ 
vates of the Life Guards. The privates in the Foot Guards 
have Id a day more than the Line. The Line have Is. and 
2 d a day. 

THE ADAHRALTY, in "Whitehall, occupies the site of 
Wallingford House, in which the business of the Lord Higli 
Admiral, first conducted here in 1626 under Villiers, 
Duke of Buckingham, became permanently established in 
the reign of William III. The front towards the street 
was built (circ. 1726) by Thomas Ripley, architect of 
Houghton Hall in Norfolk, the “Ripley with a rule,” 
commemorated by Pope .—The Dunciad, b. iii. 

“ See under Ripley rise a new Whitehall, 

AVhile Jones’ and Boyle’s united labours fall.” 

The screen towards the street was erected in 1776 by the 
brothers Adam. The office of Lord High Admiral, since the 
Revolution of 1688, has, with three exceptions, been held 
in commission. The exceptions are, Prince George of Den¬ 
mark, the husband of Queen Anne, 1702 to 1708 ; Thomas, 
Earl of Pembroke, for a short time in 1709; and the Duke 
of Clarence, afterwards King William IV., in 1827-28. 
Among the First Lords Commissioners we may find the names 
of Anson, Hawke, Howe, Keppell, and St. Vincent. Adj oin- 
ing to, and communicating with the Admiralty, is a spacious 
house for the residence of the First Lord. The Secretary 

* Sir Philip Francis, the author of “Junius,” was a clerk in the War 
Office from 1763 to 1772, when he resigned, or was removed, full of ire 
against*Lord Barrington, who had promoted Mr. Chamier over hi.s head 
to be Deputy Secretai’y at AVar. 


VII.—SOMERSET HOUSE. 


55 


and three or four of the junior Lords have residences in the 
northern wing of the building. The salary of the First Lord, 
who has the whole patronage of the Navy in his hands, 
is 4600?. a year. The correspondence of the Admiralty is 
chiefly conducted here, but the accounts are kept by five 
difierent officers in what used to be the Navy and Victualling 
Offices at Somerset House in the Strand, viz., 1. Surveyor of 
the Navy. 2. Accountant-General. 3. Store-keeper-General. 
4. Comptroller of the Victualling and Transport Services. 5. 
Inspector-General of Naval Hospitals and Fleets. Observe .— 
Characteristic poi’ti’ait of Lord Nelson, painted at Palermo, 
in 1799, for Sir William Hamilton, by Leonardo Guzzardi; 
he wears the diamond plume w’hich the Sultan gave him. 
In the house of the Secretary are the portraits of the Secre¬ 
taries from Pepys to the present time. 

SOMERSET HOUSE, in the Strand. A handsome pile 
of building, erected 1776-1786, on the site of the palace of 
the Protector Somerset. The architect was Sir William 
Chambers, son of a Scottish merchant. The general propor¬ 
tions of the building are good, and some of the details 
of great elegance, especially the entrance archway from the 
Strand. The teri’ace elevation towards the Thames was 
made, like the Adelphi-terrace of the brothers Adam, in 
anticipation of the long projected embankment of the river, 
and is one of the noblest fa 9 ades in London. The building 
is in the form of a quadrangle, with wings added by 
Smirke and Pennethorne, and contains within its walls, 
from 10 to 4, about 900 government officials, tnaintaiued 
at an annual cost of something like 275,000?. The 
principal government offices in the building are the Audit 
Office, estalDlished in 1785, where the accounts of the king¬ 
dom and the colonies are audited by commissioners 
appointed for the purpose; the Office of Registrar-General of 
Births, Deaths, and Marriages in England (in the old rooms 
of the Royal Academy of Arts); the Inland Revenue Office, 
where public taxes, stamps, legacy and excise duties are 
received from the several district collectors; and the offices 
connected with Doctors' Commons. The Inland Revenue is 
managed by Commissioners, the chairman having a salai’y of 
2500?. a-year, the highest received by any public officer in 
Somerset House. In rooms two stories below the level of 
the quadrangle, the mechanical operations are conducted. 
Legal and commercial stamps are impressed by hand-pi’esses. 
In the basement story, are presses moved by steam, em¬ 
ployed in printing medicine-labels; stamps on country bank- 


56 


VII.—SOMERSET HOUSE, 


notes; in stamping the embossed medallion of the Queen on 
postage envelopes; and in printing half-penny, penny, and 
two-penny postage stamps on sheets. Down to 1856-71, the 
Eastern end of the Strand front was occupied by the Royal 
and other Learned Societies. Here, also, from 1780 to 1830, 
was the apartments of the Royal Academy of Arts. The last 
and best of Sir Joshua Reynolds’s Discourses was delivered 
by him in the great room of the Academy, at the top of the 
building. The east wing of the building, erected 1829, is 
occupied by King’s College. [See Index.'] 

The Inland Revenue Office, or the Excise, Stamp, Legacy 
Duty, and Property-tax Office, occupies nearly one-half 
of the building. Malt and spirits are the articles produc¬ 
ing the most Excise-money to the Exchequer. The duty 
of excise was first introduced into this country by an ordi¬ 
nance of Parliament, of July 22nd, 1643, when an im¬ 
post was laid upon beer, ale, wine, and other provisions, for 
carrying on a war against the king. The duties of the 
Inland Revenue Office have been consolidated since 1848, 
when the business of the Excise office in Old Broad-street 
was transferred hither. The west Aving, fronting Wellington- 
street, erected 1854-6, by Pennethorne, at a cost of 81,123^., 
belongs to the Inland Revenue Office. The bronze statue of 
George III., and figure of Father Thames, in the quadrangle, 
are by John Bacon, R.A., and cost 2000^. 

Doctors’ Commons Will Office occupies the centre and 
great part of the west side of the quadrangle. It was 
removed hither 1870, from Old Doctors’ Commons near St. 
Paul’s. 

At the Prerogative Will Office all wills are proved 
and administration granted. The office abounds in matter 
of great biographical importance—illustrative of the lives 
of eminent men, of the descent of property, and of the 
mannei’s and customs of bygone times. 

The Department for Literary Inquiry in the Central Hall 
is open (since 1862) from 10, a.m., to 3, p.m., except from 
August 10th to October 10th, when it is open from 11 to 2.30. 
It is closed Saturdays and holidays. Visitors are allowed, 
without fees, to search the calendars, read registered copies 
of wills before 1700, and to make extracts in pencil only. 
Only three persons can be admitted at a time. 

Here may be seen the original will of Shakspeare, on 
three folio sheets of paper, with his signature to each sheet ; 
the wills of Holbein, 1543, Van Dyck, painters, and of Inigo 
Jones, Sir Isaac Newton, Di’. Johnson, Izaak Walton; in 
short, of all the great men of this country who died pos- 


VIT.—SOMERSET HOUSE—ROYAL MINT. 


57 


sessed of property in the south of England. The -will of 
Napoleon, made at St. Helena, by which he bequeathed 
10,000 francs to Cantillon, a French soldier, for trying to 
shoot the Duke of Wellington, in Paris, was surrendered to 
the French, 1853. 

The office hours at the Prerogative Will Office are 9 
to 3 in wintei’, and 9 to 4 in summer. The charges for 
searching the calendars of names is Is. for every name. The 
charge for seeing the original will is a shilling extra. Persons 
are not allowed to make even a pencil memorandum, 
but official copies of wills may be had at eightpence per 
folio. 

At i\iQ Department for Personal Application, persons may 
prove a will and take out probate without assistance of 
Proctor or Solicitor since 1861. 

The iron fastenings on the foot-gates leading to Somerset 
House from the Strand were made to support a formidable 
chevaux de fi’ise, and are among the few existing memorials 
of the memorable 10th of April, 1848. The number of 
windows in Somerset House is 3600. 

THE ROYAL MINT, on Tower Hill, about to be 
removed to the Thames Victoria Embankment, between the 
Temple and Blackfriars Bridge. The elevation of the building 
was by aMr. Johnson; the entrances,&c., by Sir Robert Smirke. 
The coinage of the three kingdoms, and of many of our colo¬ 
nies, has been executed within these walls since 1824. The 
various processes connected with coining are carried on by 
a series of ingenious machines. The most curious is an en¬ 
gine called “ the drawing bench,” by which the metal, when 
tested to show that it contains the proper alloy, is drawn 
through rollers to the precise thickness required for the 
coin which is to be cut out of it. In the case of gold, the 
difference of a hair’s breadth in-any part of the plate or 
ribbon of gold would alter the value of a sovereign. By 
another machine circular disks are punched out of the sheets 
of metal of any size required, and by a number of screw 
presses these blanks, as they are called, are stamped on 
obverse and reverse at the same time. Every process has an 
interest of its own ; but none are more suggestive, and more 
worth seeing, than the rapid motion by which sixty or seventy 
sixpences may be struck in a minute, and half-crowns or 
sovereigns in minor proportions; or the mode in which the 
press feeds itself with the blanks to be coined, and, when 
struck, removes them from between the dies. The coins are, 
of course, struck from dies. A matrix in relief is first cut 
in soft steel by the engraver. When this is hardened, many 


58 


VII.—BURLINGTON HOUSE. 


dies may be obtained from it, provided the metal resists the 
great force required to obtain the impression. Many matrices 
and dies split in the act of stamping. The mode of 
hardening the dies, by a chemical process, is kept secret. 
The office of Master of the Mint, formerly held by Sir 
Isaac Newton and Sir John Hersehel, was abolished 1870. 
Thomas Simon w'as graver to the Mint during the Pro¬ 
tectorate of Cromwell, and the eaady part of the reign of 
Charles II. The Mint receives gold bullion for coinage, 
without charge, but the privilege is seldom resorted to by 
private persons, and all the gold to be coined now comes 
through the Bank, The average amount of coinage per 
annum is 5,000,000Z. Mode of Admission. —Order from the 
Deputy-Master, not transferable, available only for tlie 
day specified. In all applications for admission, the names 
and addresses of the persons wishing to be admitted, or of 
some one of them with the number of the party, are to be 
stated. 

BURLINGTON HOUSE, Piccadilly, late the residence of 
the Hon. Charles Cavendish, stands between Bond-street and 
Sackville-street, and was built by Richard Boyle, Lord Bur¬ 
lington, the architect, 1695-1743. The walls and ceilings 
were painted by Marco Ricci. 

Burlington House was purchased for the nation, 1854, for 
140,0007, including the Gardens, upon which three new 
edifices have been erected. (1) Nearest to Piccadilly, and 
on the site of the famous gateway and curved colonnade, 
pulled down, 1868, pronounced by Sir Wm. Chambers “one 
of the finest pieces of architecture in Europe,” while to 
Horace Walpole it seemed “antique and imposing, and like 
one of those faiiy edifices raised by genii,” rises Ne\v Bur¬ 
lington Mouse (Banks and Barry architects, 1872), containing 
rooms for the meetings and management of Leaimed Societies 
—the Royal, Geological, and Chemical E. of the entrance. 
The Antiquarian, Astronomical, and LinnEcan on the W. of 
it. Old Burlington House itself was, in 1868, handed over 
to the Royal Academy. Passing through the entrance hall 
of old Burlington house we reach (2) the New Royal 
Academy Exhibition Rooms, built 1868-69 from designs of 
Sydney Smirke (described further on ); and immediately in 
the rear of them, fronting towards Burlington Gardens, is 
(3) the London University, containing offices and apartments 
where examinations are held twice a year and a hall for 
meetings of the Council and for the conferring of degrees. 
(See Index.) 

A print by Hogarth, called “ The Man of Taste, contain- 


VII.—RECORD OFFICE. 


69 


iug a view of Burlington Gate,” 1731, represents Kent on 
the summit in his threefold capacity of painter, sculptor, 
and architect, flourishing his palette and pencils over the 
heads of his astonished supporters, Michael Angelo and 
Raphael. On a scaffold, a little lower down. Pope stands, 
whitewashing the front, and Avhile he makes the pilasters 
of the gateway clean, his wet brush bespatters the Duke of 
Chandos, who is passing by; Lord Burlington serves the 
poet in the capacity of a labourer. Kent was patronised by 
Lord Burlington. Handel lived for three years in this house. 

“ —Burlington’s fair palace still remains, 

Beauty within—without, proportion reigns; 

Beneath his eye declining art revives, 

The wall with animated pictures lives. 

There Handel strikes the strings, the melting strain 
Transports the soul, and thrills through every vein; 

There oft I enter—but with cleaner shoes. 

For Burlington’s beloved by every Muse.”— Gay, Trivia. 

The Duke of Portland, when Minister in the reign of George 
III., resided in Burlington House. 

The RECORD OFFICE.—A Public Record Office was 
built 1856 on the Rolls estate between Chancery-Lane and 
•Fetter Lane. It is a huge, ugly, fire-proof block of buildings, 
which cost 8S,490Z, designed to include the public records 
formerly kept in the Tower, the Chapter-house, Westminster, 
Rolls’ Chapel, and St. James’s Park. They are the most 
ancient, uninterrupted, and complete series of archives in 
the world. Within, it consists of tier upon tier of narrow 
passages paved with brick, into which open, right and left, 
the iron doors of iron grated closets, shelved with slate. 

The State Papers include those relating to the Exchequer 
Crown expenses. Wardrobe, Household, Mint, Blood-money, 
Secret Service, War’Office, Admiralty, and the old Court of 
Star Chamber. 

Here are preserved Domesday Book, or the Survey of 
England made by William the Conqueror, two volumes on 
vellum of unequal size, the earliest survey of the kind made 
in Europe, and is in a veiy perfect condition; deed of resig¬ 
nation of the Scottish Crown to Edward II.; the Charter 
granted by Alfonso of Castile to Edward I., on his marriage 
with Eleanor of Castile, with a solid seal of gold attached; 
a Treaty of Peace betAveen Henry VIII. and Francis I. of 
France, Avith the gold seal attached in high relief, and under¬ 
cut, supposed to be the work of Benvenuto Cellini. The 
several instruments of the surrender to Henry Vllf. of the 
Avhole of the monasteries in England and Wales. 


60 


VIII.—BANK OF ENGLAND. 


Access to the papers in the Record and State Paper Office 
can be obtained by any respectable person, on signing the 
name in a book kept for the purpose, and he may make what 
copies he pleases. Unrestricted access to State papers since 
the Revolution is granted only by a written order from the 
Secretary of State for the Home Department. A convenient 
Reading-room has been built. 


Vlll.-COMMERCIAL BUILDINGS AND DOCKS. 

BANK OF ENGLAND, Threadneedle-street, Citv 
(W est End Branch in Buidington Gardens).—“The principal 
Bank of Deposit and Circulation; not in this country only, 
but in Europe,”—was founded in 1694, and grew out of a 
loan of 1,200,000Z. for the public service. Its principal 
projector was William Paterson, a Scotch gentleman (en¬ 
couraged by Charles Montague, afterwards Chancellor of the 
Exchequer and Earl of Halifax); who, according to his own 
account, commenced his exertions for the establishment of a 
National Bank in 1691. By the laws and regulations which 
he left, no Scotchman was eligible to fill the post of a Director. 

The business of the Bank was carried on in Grocers’ Hall, 
in the Poultry, from 1694 to 1734, when it was i-emoved" to 
an establishment of its own (part of the present edifice), 
designed by Mr. George Sampson. East and west wings 
were added by Sir Robert Taylor, between 1766 and 1786. 
Sir John Soane subsequently receiving the appointment 
of architect to the Bank, part of the old building was either 
altered'or taken down, and the Bank, much as we now see 
it, covering an irregular area of eight acres, was completed 
by him. For security’s sake, it is without external windows, 
being lighted from skylights or inner courts. It has the 
merit of being well adapted for the purposes and business 
of the Bank. The corner towards Lothbury is copied from 
the Temple of the Sibyl, at Tivoli. The arch leading into 
the Bullion-yard is copied from that of Constantine, and 
Roman Baths are imitated in one of the Stock offices. The 
stone copings, or breast-work, behind the balustrade along 
the top of the wall, were added by C. R. Cockerell, R. A., as a 
defence after the Chartist meeting on the 10th of April, 1848. 
The area in the centre, planted with trees and shrubs, and 
ornamented with a fountain, was formerly the churchyard 
of St. Christopher, Threadneedle-st. The management of 
the Bank is vested in a Governor, Deputy-Governor, and 
24 Directors, 8 of whom go put every year. The qualification 
for Governor is 4000Z. Stock, Deputy-Governor 3000^., and 




PrinceB>6treet 


1. Ntehtly wftteh. 

3,^- Secrethjy'» office 
and room. 

3, Chief accountant's 

parlour. 

4 . Secretarj ’B house. 
Power of attorney's 

office. 

6. Prirate rooms 
Branch banks office. 
7- l^eputyaccountant’s 
office. 

8, Chief accountant's. 

9. Chief cashier’s. 

10. Governor’s room. 

11, Deputy irovernor’s. 
13,13. Committee rooms. 


13. Officers' r«»oms. 

14. Three per cent, or 3 ^ 

per ceut. transfer. 

15. Kotunda or dividend 

pay office. 

16. Bullion office. 

17. Pay hall. 

18. Clieque office. 

19. Servants’ room. 

20 . Coffee room. 

21. Discount office. 
22.0|)en^ courts for 

33. Passages, lobbies, 
&c. 

24. Waiting room. 

26. Chancery offices. 


GROUND PLAN 

OF TQB 

□ ANK 

OS 

ENG LAN D. 


Capel Court and Stock 
Exchange. 

Bartholomew-lane. 


Prlaces-street 


00 


« 


Entrant** 































































































































VTII.—BANK OF ENGLAND. 


G1 


Director 2000L The room in which the Directors meet is 
called the Banh Parlour. They meet every Thursday morn¬ 
ing 114 in their Court room. The profits accrue from in¬ 
terest on Exchequer-bills, discounts, interest on capital lent 
to Government, an allowance for managing the Public Debt, 
and other sources. The dividend received by the proprie¬ 
tors is 7 per cent. In the lobby of the Parlour is a portrait 
of Abraham Newland, who rose from a baker’s counter to bo 
chief clerk of the Bank of England, and to die enormously 
I’ich. Madox, who wrote the History of the Exchequer, was 
the first chief cashier. The persons employed were at first 
only 54; they are now 900. The salaries, rising from 50?. 
to 1200?. a year, amount to 210,000?. a year. There is a 
valuable library, for the use of the clerks. 

The Bullion Office is at the side of Bartholomew-lane, in the 
basement story, and formed part of the original structure. It 
consists of a public chamber for the transaction of business, 
a vault for public deposits, and a vault for the private stock. 
No one is allowed to enter the bullion vaults except in 
company of a Director. The amount of bullion in the 
possession of the Bank of England constitutes, along with 
their securities, the assets which they place against their 
liabilities, on account of circulation and deposits; and the 
difference (about three millions) between the several 
amounts is called the “Rest,” or guarantee fund, to pro¬ 
vide for the contingency of possible losses. The Bank 
Bevenue ought to bear the proportion of 4 to its liabilities. 
Gold is almost exclusively obtained by the Bank in the “ bar ” 
form; although no form of the deposit would be refused. A 
bar of gold is a small brick, weighing 16 lb., and worth about 
800?. The B. of E. is compelled, under the Bank Act of 
1844, to pay for bullion at the rate of 3?. 17s. 9c?. per oz. 

In the process of weighing, a number of admirably-con¬ 
structed balances are brought into operation. A large balance, 
invented by Mr. Bate, weighs silver in bars, from 50 lb. 
to 80 lb. troy;—a balance, invented in 1820 by Sir John 
Barton, of the Mint, weighs gold coin in quantities varying 
from a few ounces to 18 Ib^. troy, and gold in bars of 
any weight up to 15 lb. These instruments are very per¬ 
fect in their action, admit of easy regulation, and are of 
durable construction. The balance made hy Mr. Cotton, is 
furnished with glass weights, and weighs at the rate of 33 
sovereigns a minute. The machine appears to be a square 
brass box, in the inside of which, secure from currents of 
air, is the machinery. This wonderful and ingenious mechan¬ 
ism is so contrived, that, on receiving the sovereigns, it 
discriminates so as to throw those of full weight into 


G2 


VIII.—ROYAL EXCHANGE, 


one box, and to reject those of light weight into another. 
There are 10 of these machines in operation, and they 
weigh between 60,000 and 70,000 pieces daily. Do not 
omit to see the wonderful machinery, invented by John 
Oldham (d. 1840), by which bank-notes are printed and num¬ 
bered with unerring precision, in progression from 1 to 
100 ,000; the whole accompanied by such a system of regis¬ 
tration and checks as to record everything that every part 
of the machine is doing at any moment, and render fraud 
impossible. The value of Bank-notes in circulation is up¬ 
wards of 18,000,OOOZ., and the number of persons receiving 
dividends in one year is about 284,000. The Stock or An¬ 
nuities upon which the Public Dividends are payable amount 
to about 774,000,000^., and the yearly dividends payable 
thereupon to about 25,000,000^. The issue of paper on secu¬ 
rities is not permitted to exceed 14,000,000?. The bullion 
in the vaults, in 1871, reached the value of 26,000,000?. 
The mode of admission to view the interior of the Bank, 
Bullion Office, &c., is by special order from the Goveimor, 
or Deputy-Governoi’. For a list of Bank Directors for the 
current year, see any almanac or pocket-book. Strangers 
may walk through the joublic rooms. Hall, Rotunda, &c., any 
day except holidays, from 9 to 3. Dividends on Consols 
(including reduced and new 3 per cent. Stock,) arc paid quar¬ 
terly, since 1870, and to written order, instead qf by personal 
application only. 

THE ROYAL EXCHANGE (a quadrangular edifice, with 
a politico on the W. side facing down Cheapside; and the 
third building of the kind on the same site), erected for the 
convenience of merchants and brokers; built from the 
designs of William Tite, and opened by Queen Victoria, 
Oct. 28th, 1844. The sculpture in the pediment -was by 
R. Westmacott, R.A. (the younger). The Exchange con¬ 
sists of an open court or quadrangle, suri^uided by a 
colonnade, with a marble statue of her Majesty, by Lough ; 
and statues of Sir Thomas Gresham, Sir Hugh Myddelton, 
and Queen Elizabeth, by Messrs. Joseph, Carew, and AVat- 
son. It is said to have cost 180,000?.; but is now much 
disfigured externally by shops, in opposition to the firmly 
expressed wishes of its architect. The hour of ’Change, 
the busy period, is from 3^ to 44 p.m. The two great days 
on ’Change are Tuesday and Fi’iday. The Rothschilds 
occupy a pillar on the S. side. 

In the E. .part, up-stairs, are Lloyd's Subscription Rooms 
{originally Lloyd's Coffee House), the centre and focus of all 
intelligence, commercial and political, domestic and foreign, 


VIII.—UOTAL EXCHANGE—»LLOyd’s. 


C3 


where merchants, shippers, and underwriters attend to 
obtain shipping intelligence, and where the business of 
Mai-ine Insurance is carried on through the medium of 
underwriters. There is no one engaged in any extensive 
mercantile business in London who is not either a member 
or subscriber to Lloyd’s; and thus the collective body 
represents the greater part of the mei'cantile wealth of the 
country. The entrance to Lloyd’s is in the area, near the 
eastern gate of the Royal Exchange. A wide flight of steps 
leads to a handsome vestibule, ornamentedby marble statues 
of Prince Albert, by Lough; the late William Huskisson, by 
Gibson, R.A., presented by his widow. On the walls is the 
tablet, erected as a testimonial to the '^Times’’ newspaper, for 
the public spirit displayed by its proprietor in the ex¬ 
posure of a fraudulent conspiracy. In this vestibule are 
the entrances to the three principal subscription-rooms— 
the Underwriters’, the Merchants’, and the Captains’ Room, 

The affairs of Lloyd's are managed by a committee of nine 
members. The chairman is elected annually: he is generally 
a merchant of eminence and a member of Parliament. There 
is a secretary and 8 clerks, 8 waiters, and 5 messengers. 
The expenses amount to upwards of 10,000^. per annum. 
The income is derived from the subscriptions of about 1900 
members and subscribers, and substitutes; the paym'^nts 
from the insurance and other public companies; the adver¬ 
tising of ships’ bills, and the sale of Lloyd’s List. Each 
member pays 25/. admission, and an annual subsci'iption of 
4/. 4s.; but if an underwriter, 10/. 10s. Annual subscribers 
to the whole establishment pay four guineas, or if to the 
Merchants’ Room only, then two guineas. The admission is 
by ballot of the committee, on the recommendation of six 
subscribers. 

What is called Lloyd^s Register of British and Foreign 
Shipping is in No, 2, White-Lion-court, Cornhill, and was 
established in^834. The object of the Society was to obtain 
a knowledge of the condition of the mercantile shipping, by 
means of careful surveys to be made by competent surveyors, 
and thus to secure an accurate classification according to the 
real and inti’insic worth of the ship. The affairs of the 
Society which instituted this book are managed by a com¬ 
mittee consisting of 24 members, namely 8 merchants, 8 
shipowners, and 8 underwriters. Six members (2 of each of 
the description just mentioned) retire annually, but are 
eligible to be re-elected. The right of election rests equally 
with the committee for Lloyd’s and the committee of the 
General Shipowners’ Society. 


64 VIII.—TRINITY HOUSE.—STOCK EXCHANGE. 

On the architrave of the N. fa9ade of the Exchange are 
inscriptions in relief, divided by a simple moulding. “ The 
Earth is the Lord’s and the fulness thereof,” was suggested 
by the Prince Consort. The one on the left of the spec¬ 
tator is the common City motto, ‘‘domine dirige^ nos,” 
and that on the right “honor deo.” The motto in the 
central compartment, “fortvn. a. my,” was the motto of 
Sir Thomas Gresham, founder of the first Royal Exchange, 
1566, which was opened by Queen Elizabeth, Jan. 23rd, 
1570-1. Behind the Royal Exchange is a sitting statue, in 
bronze, by Story, an American sculptor, of the benevolent 
Geo. Peabody, raised by subscription 1869. 

TRINITY HOUSE, on the N. side of Tower Hill, built 
by Samuel Wyatt, belongs to a company founded by Sir 
Thomas Spert, Comptroller of the Navy to Henry VIII., 
and commander of the Harry Grace de Dieu, and was incor¬ 
porated (March 20th, 1529) by the name of “The Master, 
Wardens, and Assistants of the Guild, Fraternity, or Brother¬ 
hood, of the most glorious and Undividable Trinity, and of 
St. Clement, in the parish of Deptford Strond, in the county 
of Kent.” The corporation consists of a Master, Deputy 
Master, 31 Elder Brethren, and an unlimited number of 
“younger brethren,” and has for its object the increase and 
encouragement of navigation, &c., the regulation of light¬ 
houses, and sea-marks, the securing of a body of skilled and 
efficient filois for the navy and mercantile service, and the 
general management of nautical matters not immediately 
connected with the Admiralty. The revenue of the corpora¬ 
tion, arising from tonnage, ballastage, beaconage, &c., is 
applied (after defraying the expenses of light-houses, buoys, 
&c.) to the relief of decayed seamen, their widows and 
children. In the house are busts of Nelson, St. Vincent, 
Howe, and Duncan; portraits of James I. and his Queen, of 
James II. and Sir Francis Drake; also models of light¬ 
houses. 

STOCK EXCHANGE, Capel Court. Re-built 1853 
(Thomas Allason, architect). This, the ready-money market 
of the world, was removed hither in 1802 from Change- 
alley. It stands immediately in front of the Bank of England. 
Capel-court was so called from the London residence and 
place of business of Sir William Capel, ancestor of the Capels, 
Earls of Essex, and Lord Mayor in 1504. The membei’s 
of the Stock Exchange, about 850 in number, consist of 
dealers (calledyo65e7-s), bi'okers in British and foreign funds, 
railway and other shares exclusively; each member paying 10?. 


VIII.—DOCKS. 


Go 

yearly. A notice is posted at every entrance that none but 
members are admitted. A stranger is soon detected, and by 
the custom of the place is made to understand that he is an 
intruder, and turned out. The admission of a member takes 
j)lace in committee, and by ballot. The election is only for 
one year, so that each member has to be re-elected every Lady- 
day. The committee, consisting of thirty, are elected by 
the members at the same time. Every new member of the 
house,” as it is called, must be introduced by three members, 
each of whom enters into security in 300Z. for two years. 
An applicant for admission who has been a clerk to a 
member for the space of four years has to provide only two 
securities for 2501. for two years. Foreigners must have I’esided 
five years before becoming eligible for election. A bankrupt 
member immediately ceases to be a member, and cannot be 
re-elected unless he pays 65. 8cl. in the pound from resources 
of his own. The usual commission charged by a broker is 
one-eighth per cent, upon the stock sold or purchased ; but on 
foreign stocks, railway bonds and shares, it varies according 
to the value of the securities. The broker generally deals 
with the ‘‘jobbers,” as they are called, a class of members 
who are dealers or middle men, who remain in the Stock 
Exchange in readiness to act upon the appearance of the 
brokers, but the market is entirely open to all the members, 
The fluctuations of price are produced by sales and pur¬ 
chases, by continental news, domestic politics and finance ; 
and sometimes by a fraud or trick like that ascribed to 
Lord Coehraue and others, in 1814, when the members 
were victimised to a large amount. 

THE DOCKS OF LONDON, viz., St. Katherine’s Docks, 
nearest to London, West India Docks, East India Docks, 
London Docks, Victoria Docks, Millwall, and Commercial 
Docks, have all been formed since 1800, previous to which 
time shipping in the Port of London had to discharge their 
cargoes into lighters. AH these Docks have been constructed 
by joint-stock companies, and though not unprofitable to 
their promoters, have redounded more to the advantage of 
the Port of London than to that of their projectors. 

WEST INDIA DOCKS (William Jessop, engineer) cover 
295 acres, and lie between Limehouse and Kackwall, on the 
left bank of the Thames. The first stone was laid by William 
Pitt, July 12th, 1800, and the docks opened for business, 
1802. The northern, or Import Dock, is 170 yards long by 
166 wide, and will hold 204 vessels of 300 tons each; and 
the southern, or Export Dock, is 170 yards long by 135 yards 

F 


66 VIII.—EAST INDIA—KATIIERINE’S DOCKS. 

wide, and will hold 195 vessels. South of the Export Dock 
is a canal nearly f of a mile long, cutting off the great 
bend of the river, connecting Limehouse Eeach with Black- 
wall Keach, and forming the northern boundary of the Isle 
of Dogs. The two docks, with their warehouses, are en¬ 
closed by a lofty wall five feet in thickness, and have held at 
one time 148,563 casks of sugar, 70,875 barrels and 433,648 
bags of coffee, 35,158 pipes of rum and Madeira, 14,021 logs 
of mahogany, and 21,350 tons of logwood. Though they 
retain their old name, they belong to the East and West 
India Dock Company, and are used by every kind of shipping. 
The office of the Company is at No. 8, Billiter-square; and 
the best way of reaching the docks is by the Blackwall 
Bail way. The original capital of the Company was 500,000^., 
afterwards raised to 1,200,000?. The revenues in 1809 
amounted to 330,623?., and in 1813, when they reached their 
climax, to 449,421?. In 1860, 1200 vessels of 498,366 tons 
discharged in these united docks; the gross earnings were 
404,162?., the nett do. 110,583?. Capital of the East and 
West India Companies, 2 millions. 

EAST INDIA DOCKS, Blackwall, a little lower down 
the river than the West India Docks, and considerably smaller, 
were originally erected for the East India Company, but since 
the opening of the trade to India, the property of the East and 
West India Companies. The first stone was laid March 4th, 
1805, and the docks opened for business Aug. 4th, 1806. The 
number of directors is 13, who must each hold 20 shares in the 
stock of the Company, and 4 of them must be directors of the 
East India Company. This forms the only connexion -which 
the East India Company has with the Docks. The possession 
of five shares gives a right of voting. The Import Dock has 
an area of 19 acres, the Export Dock of 10 acres, and the 
Basin of 3, making a total surface of 32 acres. The gates are 
closed at 3 in the winter months, and at 4 in the summer 
months. The mode of admission for visitors is much stricter 
than at any of the other Docks. The best way of reaching the 
Docks is by the Blackwall Eailway from Fenchurch-street. 
This is the head-quarters of White Bait, wliich may be had 
in the neighbouring Brunswick Tavern. 

ST. KATHEEINE'S DOCKS, near the Tower. First stone 
laid May 3rd, 1827, and the Docks publicly opened, Oct. 25th, 
1828; 1250 houses, (nearly a whole parish, in fact,) including 
the old Hospital of St. Katherine, were purchased and pulled 
down, and 11,300 inhabitants I’emoved, in clearing the 
ground for this magnificent undertaking, of which Mr Tel- 


VIII.—LONDON DOCKS. 


67 


ford was the engineer, P. Hardwick the architect, and Sir 
John Hall, the late secretary, the active promoter. The total 
cost was 1,700,000^. The area of tlie Docks is about 24 
aci'es, of which are water. The lock is sunk so deep that 
ships of 700 tons burden may enter at any time of the tide. 
The warehouses, vaults, sheds, and covered ways will con¬ 
tain 110,000 tons of goods. The gross earnings of the Com¬ 
pany in 1860 wei’e 2.61,995^., nett, 71,756^.; and 905 vessels 
entered. Capital 1861, 2,500,000^. The earth excavated at 
St. Katherine’s, including the contents of the churchyard, 
when the Docks were formed was carried by water to Millbank, 
and employed to fill up the cuts or reservoirs of the Chelsea 
Waterworks Company, on Avhich, under Mr. Cubitt’s care, 
Eccleston-square, and much of the south side of Pimlico, has 
been since erected. In 1863 the St. Katherine’s and London 
Docks amalgamated, and were placed under one management. 
This arrangement is likely to be followed by other Docks. 

THE LONDON DOCKS, situated on the left bank of the 
Thames, between St. Katherine’s Docks and Eatclifee 
Highway, The first and largest dock (John Rennie, engineer) 
was opened, Jan. 30th, 1805. This magnificent establish¬ 
ment comprises an area of 90 acres—34^ acres of watei', 
49^ acres of floor in warehouses and sheds, 20 acres of 
vault. There are 20 warehouses, 259 floors in these ware- 
liouses, 18 sheds, 17 vaults, and 6 quays, with three 
entrances from the Thames, viz.. Hermitage, 40 feet in width; 
Wapping, 40 feet; and Shad well, 45 feet. The Western 
Dock comprises 20 acres; the Eastern, 7 acres; and the 
Wa] 3 ping Basin, 3 acres. The entire structure cost 4,000,000/, 
of money. In 1858, 2 new locks were made, 60 feet wide, 
and a new basin, 780 feet by 450 feet; Rendall, Engineer. 
The wall alone cost 65,000/, The walled-in range of dock 
possesses water-room for 302 sail of vessels, exclusive of 
lighters; warehouse-room for 220,000 tons of goods; and 
vault-room for 60,000 pipes of wine. The tobacco warehouse 
alone covers 5 acres. The number of ships entered in 1860 
was 1032, measuring 424,338 tons. Six weeks are allowed for 
unloading, beyond which period th^ charge of a farthing per 
ton is made for the first two weeks, and a halfpenny per ton 
afterwards. The business of the Docks is managed by a Court 
of Directors, who sit at the London Dock House, in New 
Bank-buildings. The capital of the shareholders is 5,000,000/. 
As many as 3000 labourers have been employed in these 
docks in one day. 

“ The TohaccoWarehouses are rented hy Government at 14,000?. a year. 

F 2 


G8 


VIII.—DOCKS. 

They will contain about 24,000 hogsheads, averaging 12001b. each, and 
equal to 30,000 tons of general merchandise. Passages and alleys, each 
several hundred feet long, are bordered on both sides by close and com¬ 
pact ranges of hogsheads, with here and there a small space for the 
counting-house of the officers of customs, under whose inspection all the 
arrangements are conducted. Near the north-east comer of the ware¬ 
houses is a door inscribed ‘To the Kiln,’ where damaged tobacco is burnt, 
the long chimney which carries off the smoke being jocularly called ‘ The 
Queen’s Pipe.’”— Knight's London, iii. 76. 

This is the great depot for the stock of wines belonging to 
the Wine Merchants of London. Port is principally kept 
in pipes; sheriy in hogsheads. On the 30th of June, 1849, 
the Dock contained 14,783 pipes of port; 13,107 hogsheads 
of sherry; 64 pipes of French wine; 796 pipes of Cape 
wine; 7607 cases of wine, containing 19,140 dozen; 10,113 
hogsheads of brandy; and 3642 pipes of rum. 

“As you enter the dock, the sight of the forest of masts in the distance 
and the tall chimneys vomiting clouds of black smoke, and the many- 
coloured flags flying in the air, has a most peculiar effect; while the 
sheds, with the monster wheels arching through the roofs, look like the 
paddle-boxes of huge steamers. Along the quay, you see now men with 
their faces blue with indigo, and now gaugers with their long brass- 
tipped rule dripping with spirit from the cask they have been probing; 
then will come a group of flaxen-haired sailors, chattering German; and 
next a black sailor, with a cotton handkerchief twisted turban-like around 
his head. Presently a blue-smocked butcher, with fresh meat and a 
bunch of cabbages in the tray on his shoulder, and shortly afterwards 
a mate with green parroquets in a wooden cage. Here you will see, 
sitting on a bench, a sorrowful-looking woman, with new bright cooking 
tins at her feet, telling you she is an emigrant preparing for her voyage. 
As you pass along this quay the air is pungent with tobacco; at that it 
overpowers you with the fumes of rum. Then you are nearly sickened 
with the stench of hides and huge bins of horns, and shortly afterwards 
the atmosphere is fragi'ant with coffee and spice. Nearly everj'where 
you meet stacks of cork, or else yellow bins of sulphur or lead-coloured 
copper ore. As you enter this Avarehouse, the flooring is sticky, as if it 
had been newly tarred, Avith the sugar that has leaked through the casks, 
and as you descend into the dark vaults yon see long lines of lights 
hanging from the black arches, and lamps flitting about midway. Here 
you sniff the fumes of the wine, and there the peculiar fungous smell of 
dry-rot. Then the jumble of sounds as you pass along the dock blends in 
anything but sweet concord. The sailors are singing boisterous nigger 
songs from the Yankee ship just entering, the cooper is hammering at 
the casks on the quay; the chains of the cranes, loosed of their weight, 
rattle as they fly up again ; the ropes splash iii the Avater; some captain 
shouts his orders through his hands; a goat bleats from some ship in 
the basin ; and empty casks* roll along the stones Avith a holloAv drum¬ 
like sound. Here the heavy-laden ships are down far below the quay, 
and you descend to them by ladders, Avhilst in another basin they are 
high up out of the Avater, so that their green copper sheathing is almost 
level Avith the eye of the passenger, while above his head a long line of 
bowsprits stretch far over the quay, and from them hang spars and 
planks as a gangAvay to each ship. This immense establishment is 
worked by from one to three thousand hands, according as the business 
is either ‘ brisk ’ or ‘ slack.’ ”— Henry Mayhew, Labour and the Poor. 

Mode of Admission. —The basins and shipping are open to 


VIII.—DOCKS—CORN EXCHANGE. 


61) 


the public; but to inspect the vaults and warehouses an 
order must be obtained from the Secretaiy at the London 
Dock House in New Bank-buildings; ladies are not admitted 
after 1 p.m. 

COMMERCIAL DOCKS. Five ample and commodious 
docks on the south side of the river, the property of the Com¬ 
mercial Dock Company, with an entrance from the Thames 
nearly opposite King’s-Arms-stairs in the Isle of Dogs. 
They were opened in 1807. The old Docks intended for 
Greenland ships are enlarged and provided with warehouses 
for bonding foreign corn. They comprise 49 acres, 40 of 
which are water; and are principally used by vessels engaged 
in the Baltic and East Country commerce and importation 
of timber. The removal of the mud deposited in the Docks 
by the steam navigation of the Thames costs the Company, 
on an average, about 1000^. a year. 

VICTORIA DOCKS, on the Essex or left bank of the 
Thames below Blackwall, occupy 200 acres of Plaistow 
marshes, 8 feet below Trinity high-water mark. The largest 
of 3 pair of lock-gates is 80 feet span, entirely of iron, and 
well worth notice. Ships of 3000 tons are raised out of the 
water for I’epair by a hydraulic lift, are placed upon a gi’idiron 
and removed on pontoons to be repaired, the invention of Edwin 
Clarke, C.E. These Docks were begun 1850, opened 1856; 
cost one million! Capital, one million, rates low. They are 
consequently able to compete with their rivals for the 
trade of London on very advantageous terms. Xhey have 
town warehouses under the arches of the Blackwall Railway, 
at the very gates of the London and St. Katherine’s Docks. 
Large quantities of guano from Peru are housed here. 

The SURREY DOCKS, adjoining the Commercial New 
Docks; entrances and basins planned by Messrs. Bidder at 
a cost of 100,000^. 

MILLWALL DOCKS, near the West India Docks in the 
Isle of Dogs, opened 1868, 200 acres, of which about 33 are 
water. The basin is entered by lock-gates 80 feet wide and 
450 long, the largest in London : the depth of water in 
centre, 28 feet. 

CORN EXCHANGE, Mark Lane, City, projected and 
opened 1747, enlarged and partly rebuilt 1827-28. Mai’ket 
days, Mon., Wed., and Fri. Hours of business 10 to 3; 
Monday is the principal day. Wheat is paid for in bills at 
one month, and all other descriptions of corn and grain in 
bills at two months. The Kentish ‘Gioymen” (distinguished 
by their sailors’ jackets) have stands free of expense, and 
pay less for rentage and dues than others. 


70 VIII.—CORN EXCHANGE—RAILWAY STATIONS. 

COAL EXCHANGE, in Lower Thames Street, nearly 
opposite Billingsgate, established pursuant to 47 Geo, IIT., 
cap. 68. The building (J. B. Bunning, archt.,) was opened by 
Prince Albert, 1849. In making the foundations, a Bonian 
hypocaust was laid open. It has been arched over, and is 
still visible. The interior decorations of the Exchange by 
F. Sang, represent the various species of fenis, palms, and 
other plants found fossilised amid strata of the coal forma¬ 
tion ; the piincipal collieries and mouths of the shafts ; 
portraits of men who have rendered service to the trade; 
colliers’ tackle, implements, &c. The floor is laid in the 
form of the mariner’s compass, and consists of upwards of 
40,000 pieces of wood. The black oak portions were taken 
from the bed of the Tyne, and the mulberiy wood introduced 
as the blade of the dagger in the City shield was taken from 
a tree said to have been planted by Peter the Great when 
working in this country as a shipwright. In 1866 the coal 
supplied to London alone amounted to nearl.y 6,000,000 
tons —of which tons sea-borne, 24 rail-borne. Some of the 
largest gas companies consume 100,000 tons, and there are 
brewers and sugar refiners who use from 5000 to 10,000 tons 
yearly. The Museum is open the 1st Monday of every 
month, 12 to 4. 20,000 seamen are employed in the carry¬ 

ing department alone of the London Coal Trade. 

RAILWAY STATIONS.—1. LONDON AND NORTH 
WESTERN, Eustoe Square, approached by a Grecian 
Doric gateway, occupies 12 acres, and the neighbouring 
dep6t at Camden Hill, 30 acres. The two cost £800,000. The 
great Plall (opened May, 1849), was built from the designs of 
P. C. Har-dwick, engineer of the line. In it is placed a 
statue of the late Robert Stephenson, The bas-reliefs of 
London, Liverpool, Manchester, &c., are by John Thomas. 
Close at hand are the Euston and Victoria Hotels. 

2 . The LONDON BRIDGE STATION is the outlet for nu¬ 
merous Companies,—Brighton, Dover (South Eastern), Crystal 
Palace, Greenwich, Mid Kent, North Kent, and is a more won¬ 
derful sight, from the complication of its rails, than any other 
station in London. 

3. The stations at King’s Cross, in the New-road, of the 
GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY (opened in 1852). 

4. GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY (eompleted 1856), 
with their vast hotels ; are of equal extent with the London 
and North Western, and are grand architectural construc¬ 
tions. 


VITI.—RAILWAY STATIONS. 71 

5. LONDON, CHATHAM, AND DOVER TERMINI, 
Liidgate Hill and Victoria Station, Pimlico. 

6 . MIDLAND RAILWAY, ST. PANCRAS.—Between 
the Great Northern and London and North-Western Sta¬ 
tions; the greatest roof in the world, 700 feet long, 240 feet 
span, unbroken by ties or braces; it is a modified pointed 
arch, 150 ft. high. Each of the 25 ribs weighs 50 tons. 
The outer thrust is counteracted by ties connecting every 
pair of ribs below, passing under the floor. Under it run 
two stories of warehouses for Bass & Co., Burton Pale Ale, 
&c. The goods station, at Agar Town, occupies 50 acres, 
cleared of houses to make room for it. 

7. VICTORIA STATION, Victoria Road, Pimlico, 
finished 1861, occupies in part the site of the Grosvenor 
Canal and Basin. It opens out a communication from the 
west end of London to the Railways leading to : a. Brighton, 
Dover, Croydon, Crystal Palace; 1). Chatham and Dover; 
c. Great Western Railway. It covers nearly 12 acres. 

8 . CHARING CROSS STATION, on the site of Hunger- 
ford Market, for the S. E. Counties, Brighton, Folkestone, 
and Dover Lines, and Greenwich. Continental mail-trains 
twice a day. Baggage may be booked through to Paris. 
This railway is connected with the City at Cannon-street, 
crossing the Thames by two bridges. The upper part of the 
edifice is a colossal Hotel. In front of it rises a stone Cross, 
an elegant reproduction, as far as possible, of that which 
once stood at Charing Cross, dedicated to Queen Eleanor. 
(E. Barry, archt.) 

9. GREAT EASTERN RAILWAY STATION.—Shore¬ 
ditch—to Cambridge, Colchester, Norwich, Yarmouth, Peter¬ 
borough, to be extended to Broad-street. 

10. CANNON STREET TERMINUS of the South-Eastern 
Railway, on the left bank of the Thames, accessible by an 
iron railway bridge over the river, is a vast structure; its 
shed is 190 ft. span, each truss weighs 47 tons. It crosses 
Thames Street on a bridge, and occupies the site of the 
venerable Steelyard, or Plall of the Hause, 1250—1550. 
It covers greater part of two parishes. Allhallows the Great 
and St. Mary Bothaw! Part of it is a grand Hotel and City 
Dining Rooms. Its total cost was 505,336?. 

11. NORTH LONDON and LONDON and NORTH¬ 
WESTERN CITY TERMINUS, Broad-street and Liver- 
pool-street, Finsbdrt-circus, leads to Dalston and Camden 
ToAvn Stations. {See Metropolitan Railways in Introduction.) 


72 


IX.—METROPOLITAN CATTLE MARKET. 


lX.-MARKETS. 

METROPOLITAN, CATTLE MARKET, Copenuagen 
Fields (between Islington and Camden Town)- the modern 
Smithfield—the live-stock and meat market of London— 
erected 1854-5, after a long parliamentary struggle with the 
Coi’poration of London, and publicly opened by Prince Albert, 
13th June, 1855. Architect, Mi’. Running. The market 
occupies 30 acres, and is said to have cost 440,000^. 15 acres 
are enclosed, furnishing room for 7,600 bullocks, 40,000 
sheep, 1,400 calves, and 900 pigs; there is also lairage or 
covered sheds for bullocks and sheep. In the centre rises a 
clock tower—a station of the Electric Telegraph Co. Round 
its base are banking-houses for the convenience of dealers. 
There are 8 slaughter houses, 2 of which ai’e public. There 
are 34 more acres available for the extension of the market. 
The number of cattle, sheep, and pigs, sold in one year 
in this market is estimated at 4,000,000. About one-sixth of 
all the oxen come from Denmark, which receives for them 
500,000^. a-year. The City takes a toll upon every beast 
exposed to sale of Id. per head, and of sheep at Id. per score, 
and for every pen Is. 

Salesmen estimate the weight of cattle by the eye, and, 
from constant practice, are seldom out more than a few 
poimds. The sales are always for cash. No paper is passed, 
but Avhen the bargain is struck, the buyer and seller shake 
hands and close the sale. Several millions are annually paid 
away in this manner. The average weekly sale of beasts is 
about 3000; and of sheep about 30,000, inci'eased in the 
Christmas w’eek to about 5000 beasts, and 50,000 sheep. 

Tee Agricultural Hall, Islington Green, a capacious 
building, covering nearly three acres, between Liverpool- 
road and Islington Green. An Italian fa 9 ade, of brick, with 
two towers. The main hall, 384 by 217 ft., covered with a 
glass roof supported on iron columns. MoreAhan 8000 tons 
of iron were used in its construction. Architect, — Peck, of 
Maidstone. Date, 1861. Cost, 40,000Z. Here are held at 
Christmas, the Agricultural Show, exhibitions of Cattle of 
the Smithfield Club. 

THE METROPOLITAN MEAT MARKET, Smithfield, 
approached by broad streets from Holborn and the Old 
Bailey, was begun 1862, after much opposition from the Cor¬ 
poration, and finished 1863. It is a handsome and appro¬ 
priate building, in the Renaissance style, of red brick. 


IX.—SMTTHFIELD MARKET. 


73 


flanked by four corner towers (Horace Jones, architect). It 
is imposing from its extent and proportions, covering three 
and a half acres, 630 ft. long, by 246 wide. Its roof of iron 
and glass, 30 ft. high, is supported on wrought iron pillars ; 
it is furnished with convenient stalls for the sale of meat, 
while underneath the entire basement, beneath the floor, 
equal to nearly 3 acres, is a Ilailway Depot including cool 
cellars for storing meat, provided with lifts and communi¬ 
cating with various Underground railways and with the 
Cattle Market. It includes a Poultry Market. The cost 
was nearly 200,000^. 

Old Smithfield Market was an irregular open area of 
61 acres, surrounded by bone-houses, catgut manufactories, 
public-houses, and knackers’ yards. The name would seem to 
have been originally Smoothfield, “ campus planus.” 

“ Falstaff. AYliere’s Bardolph? 

“ Page, lie’s gone into Smithfield to buy your vorship a horse. 

Falstaff. I bought him in Paul’s, and he’ll buy me a horse in 
Smithfield: an I could get me but a wife in the Stews, I were manned, 
horsed, and wived.”— Shakespeare, 2nd Part of Henry IV., Act i., sc. 2. 

Smithfield is famous for its jousts, tournaments, executions, 
and burnings. Here Wallace and the gentle Mortimer were 
executed. Here, Sir William AValworth slew Wat Tyler, 
June, 1381; the King standing near St. Bartholomew’s Priory, 
and the Commons towards the west in form of battle. “For 
two days the commoners burnt, and ravaged, and beheaded in 
the city, but on the evening of the second day, the Mayor, 
Sir Wm. Walworthe, most manfully, by himself, rushed 
upon the captain of the said multitude, and as he was alter¬ 
cating with the king and his nobles, first wounded him in 
the neck with his sword and then hurled him from his 
horse, mortally pierced in the breast, and further so de¬ 
fended himself that he departed from thence unhurt.”— Riley. 
The stake, at which so many of the Marian martyrs died, was 
fixed immediately opposite the church of St. Bartholomew the 
Great {see Sect. xiv). In March, 1849, during excavations 
necessary for a new sewer, and at a depth of 3 ft. below the 
surface, immediately opposite the entrance to the church of 
St. Bartholomew the Great, the workmen laid open a mass 
of unhewn stones, blackened a.s if by fire, and covered with 
ashes, and human bones charred and partially consumed. 
This is supposed to have been the spot generally used for the 
Smithfield burnings—the face of the sufferer being turned to 
the east and to the great gate of St. Bartholomew, the prior 
of which was generally present on such occasions. Many 
bones were earried away as relics. There are records of 277 


74 


IX.—BILLINGSGATE MARKET. 


persons having thus perished. The fact has been marked by 
an appropriate monument, a slab of granite, framed and 
inscribed, let into the wall of the Hospital opposite (March, 
1870). A memorial church has also been built near. 

Here too, from Sept. 3rd to 6tb, was held the far-famed 
Bartholomew Fair, once one of the leading fairs in England, 
established by a grant from Henry II. to the Black Canons 
of St. Bartholomew for the Sale of Cloth, whence an adjoin¬ 
ing street is still called Cloth Fair, but for a century and 
more (until its abolition in 1851) only a scene of licence 
and a nuisance. 

BILLIHGSGATE, the great fish-market of London (of red 
brick, with stone dressings,) lies a little below London Bridge 
on the left bank of the Thames (Bunning, architect). Fish 
have been sold here since 1351. Queen Elizabeth appointed 
‘Hhis open place for the landing and bringing in of any fish, 
corn, salt, stores, victuals, and fruit and for the carrying 
forth of the same, or the like, and for no other merchan¬ 
dizes.” In the reign of William IIL, 1699, it was made ‘'a 
free and open market for all sorts of fish.” It is now regu¬ 
lated pursuant to 9 & 10 Viet. c. 346. It yields the Corpo¬ 
ration 7000Z. per annum.^ 

“IIow this gate took that name, or of what antiquity the same is, 
I must leave uncertain, as not having read any ancient record thereof 
more than that Geffrey Monmouth writeth, that Belin, a king of the 
Britons, about 400 years b.c., built this gate, and named it Belin’s gate, 
after his own calling; and that when he was dead, his body being burnt, 
the ashes in a vessel of brass were set upon a high pinnacle of stone over 
the same gate. It seemeth to me not to he so ancient, but rather to have 
taken that name of some later owner of the place, happily named Beling 
or Biling, as Somer’s key. Smart’s key. Frost wharf, and others thereby, 
took their names of their owners.”— Stow, p. 17. 

The coarse language of the place has long been famous :— 

“ There stript, fair Rhetoric languish’d on the ground; 

His blunted arms by Sophistry are borne, 

And shameless Billingsgate her robes adorn.” 

Pope, The Dunciad, B. iv. 

'' One may term Billingsgate,” says old Fuller, '' the Esculine 
gate of London.” 

The market opens at 5 o’clock throughout the year. All 
fish are sold by the tale except salmon, which is sold by 
w’eight, and oysters and shell-fish, which are sold by measure. 
The salmon imports are from Scotland, Ireland, Holland, and 
the north of Europe. The best cod is brought from the Dog¬ 
ger-bank, and the greater number of lobsters from Norway. 
The eels are chiefly from Holland. The oyster season com- 


IX.—MARKETS. 


75 


mences 4th August. Since the opening of railways, fish is 
conveyed to London chiefly by them. In 1869, 80,000 tons 
were brought by land, and only a small quantity by vessels. 
Salmon is sent in boxes on commission to agents, who charge 
5 per cent, and take the risk of bad debts. Much fine fish is 
destroyed purposely, in order to keep up the price. This 
business is in few hands, and those engaged in it are the most 
wealthy of all dealers in fish. 

Here every day (at 1 and 4), at the “ Three Tuns Tavern,” 
a capital dinner may be had for Is. Qd., including three kinds 
of fish, joints, steaks, and bread and cheese. 

For Columbia Fish MarTcet, built by Baroness Burdett 
Coutts, see Sect, xxiii. 

COVENT GARDEN MARKET, the great fruit, vegetable 
and herb mai'ket of London, originated (circ. 1656) in a few 
temporary stalls and sheds at the back of the garden wall of 
Bedford-house on the south side of the square. The present 
Market-place (William Fowler, architect) was erected (1830) 
by the Duke of Bedfoi’d. The market is rated (1849) to the 
poor at 4800Z., rather under the amount derived from the 
rental and the tolls. The stranger in London who wishes to 
see what Covent-garden Market is like, should visit it on a 
Tuesday, Thursday, or Saturday morning in summer, between 
3 and 7 o’clock. To see the supply of fruit and vegetables 
carted off, 7 a.m. is early enough. To enjoy the sight and 
smell of flow^ers and fruit, the finest in the world, any time 
from 10 A.M. to 4 or 5 r.M. will answer. 

LEADENHALL MARKET, Gracechurch-street, for but¬ 
chers’ meat, fish, poultry, vegetables, leather, hides, bacon, &c. 
The manor-house of Leadenhall, which gave the name to the 
market, belonged (1309) to Sir Hugh Neville, knight, and 
was' converted into a granary for the City by Simon Eyre, 
draper, and Mayor of London, in 1445. It appears to have 
been a large building and covered with lead, then an unusual 
roofing on halls and houses. The market escaped the Great 
Fire of 1666. 

“ Would’st thou witli mighty beef augment thy meal, 

Seek Leadenhall.”— Gay, IVivia. 

Leadenhall is no longer celebrated for its beef, but is de¬ 
servedly esteemed as the largest and best poultry market in 
London. 

Farringdon Market is a general market for vegetables 
and fruit. It is the great water-cress market of London. 


76 


IX.—TATTERSALl’s. X.—BREWERIES. 


The greatest number of horses are sold at Tattersall’s, in 
Knightsbridge Green, near the end of Sloane-street, formerly 
in Grosvenor-place, a handsome structure, including ranges 
of stables of the best construction, lofty and airy, with court 
under glass roofs, accommodating 300 or 400 horses. This 
mart was called after Richard Tattersall (d, 1795), originally a 
training groom to the last Duke of Kingston, who laid the 
foundation of his fortune by the purchase, for 2500^., of the 
celebrated horse “ Highflyer.” All horses for sale must be 
sent on the Fidday before the day of sale. The days of sale 
are Mondays throughout the yeai’, and Thursdays in the 
height of the season. Here is a subscription-i'oom, under the 
revision of the Jockey Club (who have rooms in Old Bond- 
street), and attended by all the patrons of the turf, from 
noblemen down to stable-keepers. Days of meeting, Monday 
and Thursday throughout the year. Settling days, Tuesday 
after the Derby, Monday after the St. Leger. It is necessary 
to have an introduction from a subscriber. Annual sub¬ 
scription, 2Z. 2s. The number of members is stated to be 
between three and four hundred. The betting at Tattersall’s 
regulates the betting throughout the country. 


X.-BREWERIES. 

Among the many curiosities to be seen in London few 
will be found more interesting to the agriculturist than 
a visit to one or other of the great breweries. The fol¬ 
lowing statement of the malt used by the most eminent 
London brewers in one year, is supposed to be an average 
of the consumption for some years past;— 


vtrs. 

Barclay, Perkins, and Co., Park-street, Southwark . . 127,000 

Tmman, Hanbury, Buxton, and Co., Brick-lane, Spitalfields. 140,000 

Meux and Co., Tottenham Court Road.59,617 

Reid and Co., Liquorpond-street, Gray’s Inn-lane . . . 56,640 

Whitbread and Co., Chiswell-st., Finsbury, St. Luke’s . 51,800 
Combe and Co., Castle-street, Long Acre .... 43,282 
Late Calvert and Co., 89, Upper Thames-street. . . . 29,630 

Mann and Co., 172, Whitecbapel-road. 24,030 

Charrington and Co., Mile-end-road. 22,023 

Thorn and Co., ITorseferry-road, Millbank . . . 21,016 

T|iylor and Co., Holloway .15,870 


At Barclay’s (the largest, extending over 11 acres) 600 quar¬ 
ters of malt are brewed daily. Among the many vats, one 
is pointed out containing 3500 barrels of porter, which, at 



XI.—WATER COMPANIES. 


77 


the selling price, would yield 9000Z. The water used for 
brewing is taken from the Thames at Ditton, and costs 2000^. 
per annum. To cool the wort in hot weather, water at 54° 
Fahr. is drawn from a well 367 feet deep ; 180 cart-horses are 
employed in the cartage of beer, &c., principally of the 
Flanders breed, cost from 50/. to 80/. each, and are noble 
specimens. The head brewer has a salary of 1000/. a year. 
The founder of the firm was Henry Thrale, the friend of 
Dr. Johnson, whose house stands in Pai’k-.street (once 
Deadmaii’s-place). The business, at Thrale’s death, was sold 
by Johnson and his brother executor, in behalf of Mrs. 
Thrale, to Messrs. Barclay, Perkins, and Co., for 135,000/. 
“ We are not here,” said Johnson on the day of sale, “ to sell 
a parcel of boilers and vats, but the potentiality of growing 
rich beyond the dreams of avarice.” Robert Barclay, the 
fir.st of the name in the firm (d. 1831), was a descendant of 
the famous Barclay who wrote the Apology for the Quakers, 
and Perkins was the chief clerk on Thrale’s establishment. 
While on his tour to the Hebrides, in 1773, Johnson men¬ 
tioned that Thrale “paid 20,000/. a year to the revenue, and 
that he had four vats, each of which held 1600 barrels, above 
a thousand hogsheads.” The amount at present paid to 
the revenue by the firm is nine times 20,000/. 

Truman, Hanbury and Buxton’s brew’^ery is not inferior in 
extent or excellent management to Barclay’s. The beer is 
here cooled in summer by ice brought from Norway, of which 
immense stores are kept. The visitor should exert his in¬ 
fluence among his friends to obtain an order of admission to 
one of the larger Breweries. Foreigners wearing moustaches 
had better abstain altogether, remembering the disgraeeful 
treatment which an Austrian officer received in one of these 
establishments. 


XI.-WATER COMPANIES. 

The cities of London and Westminster, and the borough 
of Southwark, and certain parishes and places adjacent 
tliereto, are at present supplied with water by nine Com¬ 
panies, who exercise absolute and irresponsible discretion in 
the quality, price, and quantity, of the article they sell. 
These Companies are:— New^ River Company ; East Lon¬ 
don Water Works Company • Southwark and Vauxhali 
Water Company; West Middlesex Water Works Com- 




78 


XI.—WATER COMPANIES. 


PANY ; Lambeth Water Works Company ; Chelsea Water 
Works Company ; Grand Junction Water Works Com¬ 
pany ; Kent Water Works Company ; Hampstead Water 
Works Company, 

The daily supply is nearly 46 millions of gallons per 
day, of which 20 millions are from the Thames, and 26 
millions from the Hew Kiver and other sources. This supply 
is equal, it is said, to a river 9 feet wide and 3 feet deep, 
running at two miles an hour. The City is entirely supplied 
from the New Eiver and the River Lea; not by the Thames. 
The nine companies supply 271,795 tenements; the New 
River supplying 83,206 of that number. 

The Thames has hitherto been at once our cistern and our 
cesspool; but this great disgrace is in some degree remedied, 
as far as supply is concerned, by an Act passed in 1852 direct¬ 
ing that on and after 31st of August, 1855, no companies, 
except the Chelsea Company, shall take Avater from any part 
of the Thames below Teddingtou Lock. The new system 
of Main Drainage will, it is hoped, relieve the Thames 
from the second reproach of foulness. 

The NEW RIVER is an artificial stream, 38 miles in length, 
about 18 feet wide and 4 feet deep, projected 1608-9, and com¬ 
pleted 1620, by Sir Hugh Myddelton, a native of Denbigh, in 
Wales, and a member of the Goldsmiths’Company, for the pur¬ 
pose of supplying the City of London with water. Nearly 
ruined by his scheme, Myddelton parted Avith his interest in it 
to a company, called the Ncav River Company, in Avhose hands 
it still remains, reserving to himself and his heirs for ever an 
annuity of 100?. per annum. This annuity ceased to be 
claimed about 1715. The Ncav River has its rise at ChadAvell 
Spring, noAV a spacious basin with an islet, containing a 
monument to Myddelton, erected by Mylne, the architect 
and engineer, situated in meadoAvs, midAA’ay between Hert¬ 
ford and Ware; from this the Company obtains 500,000 
gallons daily. The New River runs for sevei'al miles parallel 
Avith the river Lea, from Avhich it borroAvs 18,500,000 gallons 
daily at Ware, and at last empties itself into 83,206 tene¬ 
ments, and down the throats of 800,000 persons, having run 
a very circuitous course from its source to London. The 
dividend for the year 1633, Avhich is believed to haA'e been 
the first, was 15?. 3s. 3f?. The Company noAV receives 
252,000?. per annum, from the sale of 26,500,000 gallons 
to London. A single share, produces 1,500?. a year, and 
is AA'orth 30,000?. There are 72 shares. The main of the 
NeAV River at Islington was, it is said, shut down at the 


XTI.—MAIN DRAINAGE.—SEWERAGE. 


79 


time of tlie Great Fire of London in 166.6; and it was 
believed by some, that the supply of water had been stopped 
by Captain John Graunt, a papist! One of the figures in 
Tempest’s Cries of London, published in the reign of James II., 
carries “ New Kiver AVater.” 


Xll.-MAIN DRAINAGE.-SEWERAGE. 

A new system of Main Drainage for London was 
decided on in 1858, and begun 1859, by the Metropolitan 
Board of Works, the object being to divert the impurities 
of the great City from the Thames, into which they 
had hitherto been discharged. A series of large sewers, in 
fact, tunuels, carried under streets and buildings, whose 
aggregate length amounts to 85 miles, have been constructed 
on either side of the Thames, at right angles with the old 
sewers and a little below their levels, so as to intercept the 
sewage, and prevent its polluting the river in its passage 
through London. They discharge themselves by a general 
outfall channel at Barking Creek on the left bank of the 
Thames, and at Crossness, near Plumstead, on the right. 
The greater part of the sewage is carried away along with 
the rainfall by gravitation; but the sewage of the low levels 
requires to be pumped up by steam-engines into the out¬ 
fall channels, and is previously subjected to a process of 
deodorising. The cost of executing this extensive design is 
4,100,000^. ! paid by a tax levied on owners of property. On 
the S. side of the Thames the high level channels (10 miles 
long) begin at Clapham, the low level (11 miles) at Putney, 
both uniting at Deptford Creek; thence jiroceeding to Erith, 
7 miles. On the N. or City side of the Thames, three sys¬ 
tems of sewers, beginning at Hampstead, Kilburn, and the 
river embankment, meet together on the river Lea. The 
works at Bow Creek, below Blackwall, in bridges, aqueducts, 
culverts, and conduits, are on the most stupendous scale. 
The Pumping Station, at Ahbey Mills, West Ham, a fanciful 
building, where the low level drainage is lifted, by steam, 
to the upper level, cost near 250,000^, The ordinaiy daily 
amount of London sewage thus discharged into the Eiver 
Thames on the N. side has been calculated at 10,000,000 
cubic feet, and on the south side 4,000,000 cubic feet. For¬ 
merly the sewers emptied themselves into the Thames at 
various levels. When the tide rose above the orifices of 



80 


XIII.—TOWER OF LONDON. 


these sewers, the whole drainage of the district was stopped 
until the ^tide receded again, rendering the river side 
system of sewers in Kent and Surrey a succession of cess¬ 
pools. Kow their contents are received in reservoirs at the 
river bank, which are discharged into the river about the 
time of high watex’, thus both diluting the sewage and carry¬ 
ing it down by the ebb to a point 26 miles below London 
Bridge, whei’e it is partly employed in fertilising bari’en 
land. The whole sewage of London is diverted away from 
the Thames into this gigantic cloaca maxima. The engineer 
of the Main Drainage is Mr-. Bazalgettc. 


Xlll.-TOWER OF LONDON. 

TOWER OF LONDON, the most celebi-ated fortress in 
Great Britain, stands immediately without the ancient City 
walls, on the left or Middlesex bank of the Thames, and 
“ below bridge,” between the Custom House and St. Kathe¬ 
rine’s Docks. 

“This Tower,” says Stow, “is a citadel to defend or command the 
City; a royal palace; a prison of state for the most dangerous offenders ; 
the armoury for warlike provisions; the treasui-y of the ornaments and 
jewels of the Crown; and general conserver of most of the records of 
the King’s courts of justice at Westminster.”— Stow, p. 23. 

Tradition has carried its erection many centuries earlier than • 
our records warrant, attributing its forrndation to Julius 
Caesar:— 


“ Prince. Where shall we sojourn till our coronation ? 

“ Gloster. Where it seems best unto your royal self. 

If I may counsel you, some day or two 
Your highness will repose you at the Tower. 

“ Prince. I do not like the Tower, of any place.— 

Did Julius Caesar build that place, my lord? 

“ Buck. He did, my gracious lord, begin that place, 
Which since succeeding ages have re-edified. 

Prince. Is it upon record, or else reported 
Successively from age to age, he built it ? 

“ Btick. Upon record, my gracious lord.” 

Shaksjeeare, King Richard III., Act iii., sc. 1. 

“ This is the way 

To Julius Caesar’s ill-erected Tower.” 

Shakspeare, King Richard II., Act v., sc, 

“Ye towers of Julius, London’s lasting shame. 

With many a foul and midnight murder fed.” 

Gray, The Bard. 


XIII.—TOWER OF LONDON. 


81 


The Government of the Tower has been entinisted since the 
days of the Conqueror to a high officer called the Constable. 
That office was filled by the Duke of Wellington, and is 
now by Gen. Sir John Burgoyne. The Lieut.-Governor is Col. 
Lord de Ros, author of “ Historical Memorials of the Tower,” 
1866-67. 

The Tower is entered from the side of Tower Hill by the 
Lions’ Gate, on the W. side, where the lions and King’s 
beasts were formerly kept. Here tickets are distributed— 
for the Armoury and White Tower, 6c?.; and for the Crown 
jewels, 6c?. each person. Admission from 10 to 4. 

Strangers are conducted over the Tower by the Warders., 
whose places were formerly bought; but who are now all old 
soldiers, appointed on account of good services. They con¬ 
duct visitors in parties of 12. 

Passing under two Gothic gateways through the Middle 
and Byward Towers, and over the broad and deep moat 
surrounding the fortress, once an eyesore and unwholesome, 
now drained and kept as a garden, though still capable of 
being flooded at high water, we enter the Outer Bail, and 
perceive before us the wall of the Inner Bail, 30 to 40 ft. high, 
surmounted by towers at intervals. At the S.W. angle rises 
the Bell Tmoer, forming part of the Governor’s house, while, 
rt., in the line of the outer rampart is St. Thomas Tower, 
and the Traitor's Gate, opening to the river beneath a fine 
wide arch, well restored and rebuilt in 1866, by Salvin. The 
Traitor’s Gate— 

“ That gate misnamed, through which before 
"Went Sidney, Russell, Raleigh, Cranmer, More.” 

Rogers's Hmian Life, 

is SO called because prisoners, brought by water, were ad¬ 
mitted by it. It is now closed. Nearly opposite to it rises 
the Bloody Tower, gloomy and ominous name, so called, 
because within it took place the murder of the princes, 
Edward V. and Duke of York, sons of Edward IV., by order 
of Richard III. It was described by the Duke of Wellington 
as “the only place of security in which prisoners of State 
can be placed.” Here the royal jewels are now placed (see 
below). 

Passing beneath the portcullis which still hangs above 
the gateway of the Bloody Tower, you enter the Inner Bail. 
In the corner of the square, on the left, is the Governor’s 
lodgings in the Bell Tower (mentioned above, and not shown 
to the public). They contain the Council Chamber, in which 
Guy Fawkes vas examined by the Lords and King James, 
with application of torture; also the Romish priests who were 

G 


82 


XIIT.—TOWER OF LONDON. 


accomplices in the Powder plot. This event is commemorated 
by a tablet of parti-coloured marbles, with inscriptions in 
Latin and Hebrew. In another part of this building is an 
inscription carved on an old mantel-piece relating to the 
Countess of Lenox, grandmother of James the First, “ com- 
mitede prysner to thys Logynge for the Marige of her Sonne, 
my Lord Henry Darnle and the Queene of Scotlande.” The 
Bell Tower was the prison of Queen Elizabeth, of Fisher, 
bishop of Kochester, and probably of Lord Nithsdale, whose 
escape thence was so wonderfully effected by his heroic wife. 

Theoldestportion existing of the Tower is the isolated square 
Keep, or Donjon in the centre, called the White Toicer, built 
by William the Conqueror (circ. 1178), Guudulph, bishop of 
Rochester, being architect. It was re-faced and the windows 
modernised by Wren, but within it is nearly unaltered. A 
winding stair at the corner, at the foot of which the bones 
of “ the murdered princes” were found, leads to the Chajicl 
of St. John, long used, as well as the other chambers, to hold 
Records; now laid open. It is one of the best preserved 
and oldest specimens of Early Norman style in Britain; 
plain and massive piers supporting round arches and a barrel 
vault. The E. end is an apse, and round it and the aisles 
runs a triforium gallery, in which the royal family may 
have heard mass. The Banqueting Hall and Council Cham¬ 
ber adjoining, have flat timber roofs supported on stout 
joists. They are now filled with 60,000 stand of rifles, kept 
in the most perfect order, and beautifully arranged. 

Outside the White Tower, on the S. side, are several inte¬ 
resting examples of early gunnery. Observe. —No, 7, a chamber 
gun of the time of Henry VI, No. 17, a portion of a large 
brass gun of the time of Henry VIII., said to have belonged 
to the Great Harry, of which we have a representation in the 
picture at Hampton Court. No. 18, a gun of the same 
reign, inscribed, “Thomas Semeur Knyght was master of 
the King’s Ordynance whan lohn and Robert Owen 
Brethren made thys Pece Anno Domini 1546.” Iron 
serpent with chamber, time of Henry VIII., recovered 
fi’om the wreck of the Mary Rose, sunk off Spithead, in 
1545, Brass gun taken from the Chinese in 1842, inscribed, 
“Richard: Philips: made: this : Pece : An: Dni ; 1601.’” 
Two brass guns, called “ Charles ” and “ Le Temei’aire,” cap¬ 
tured from the French at Cherbourg, in 1758, bearing the 
arms of France and the motto of Louis XIV., “ Ultima ratio 
regum.” Large mortar employed by WiUiam III., at the 
siege of Namur. 

The Beauchamp Toicer, on the W. side, carefully restored in 
* See Lord De Kos’ “ Memorials of the Tower,’’ 1863. 



GROUND PLAN OF THE TOAVEU. 


A Lion Tower. 

B Middle Tow’er. 

C Bell Tower. 

D Lieutenant’s Lodgings. 
E Bloody Tower. 

F Entrance to Armouries, 
G Salt Tower. 


II Briclt Tower, 

I Bowyer Tower,—Duke of Clarence murdered in. 
K Beauchamp Tower,—Prison of Anna Boleyn tn 
Lady Jane Grey. 

L Entrance Gate. 

M Site of the Scaffold. 


G 2 


Site of Scaffold. 
TOWER HILL. 














84 


XIII.—TOWER OF LONDOX. 


1853 by Mr. Salvin, was the place of imprisonment of Anna 
Boleyn and Lady Jane Grey, whose name appears cut on 
the N. wall, which is scratched over with inscriptions by 
prisoners confined within it. It derives its name from 
Thomas de Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, imprisoned in it in 
1397;—the Develin Tower; the Bowyer Tower, on the IST. 
side, where the Duke of Clarence, it is traditionally believed, 
was drowned in a butt of Malmsey; the Martin Tower, 
near the Jewel House; and the Salt Tower, on the E. 
side, containing a curious sphere, with the signs of the 
zodiac, &c., engraved on the walls. May 30th, 1561, by Hugh 
Draper, of Bristol, committed to the Tower in 1560, on 
suspicion of sorcery and practice against Sir William St. 
Lowe and his lady. 

The Horse Armoury is contained in a gallery 150 ft. long by 
33 ft. wide, built in 1826 on the south side of the White 
Tower. The general assignment of the suits and arrange¬ 
ment of the gallery were made by the late Sir Samuel 
Meyrick, author of A Critical Inquiry into Ancient Armour, 
J. li. Planch^, Esq., Somerset Herald, and by Mr. Hewitt, the 
present intelligent custos. The centre is occupied by a line 
of equestrian figures, 22 in number, clothed in the armour of 
various reigns, from the time of Edward I. to James II. 
(1272—1688). The wall, over the arches, which runs along 
the centre of the gallery, bears the names and dates of 
English Sovereigns from Henry 11. to James II., and is painted 
with the livery colours of each family. 

Isi Compartment .—Coats and fragments of mail, W’efi- 
pons, guisarmes, billhooks, helmets, from the Battle of 
Hastings. Observe ,—Suit of the time of Edward I. (1272— 
1307), consisting of a hauberk with sleeves and chausses, and 
hood with camail and prick-spurs ; the emblazoned surcoat 
and baudric are modern. 

2nd Compartment displays arms such as were used in the 
French wars. Wars of the Roses, at Azincourt, and Poitiers, 
down to the Battle of Bosworth. Suit of the time of Henry VI. 
(1422—1461); the back and breast-plates are flexible, the 
sleeves and skirt of chain mail, the gauntlets fluted, the 
helmet a German salade armed with a frontlet and sur¬ 
mounted by a crest. This suit is of the fifteenth century, 
when armour was brought to perfection; there is a long-toed 
foot-piece, or sollei'et, with long spurs attached. Suit of the 
time of Edward IV. (1461—1483); the vamplate or guard 
of the tilting-lance is ancient, the war-saddle is of later date. 
Suit of ribbed armour of the time of Richard III. (1483— 
1485), worn by the Marquis of Waterford at the Egliuton 
Tournament. 


XI11.—THE HORSE ARMOURY. 


85 


^rd Compartment, painted with the Tudor colours, green 
and white, extends over nine arches, occupied with full suits 
of armour of the reigns of Henry VIII. and Elizabeth. 
Obsei've, a heart-shaped shield embossed with the Battle of 
Nancy, and two English long bows of yew. 

Suit of fluted armour, of German fabric, of the time 
of Henry VII. (1485—1509), the knight dismounted; the 
helmet is called a burgonet, and was invented by the Bur¬ 
gundians. Suit of fluted armour of the same reign; the 
armour of the horse is complete all but the flanchards. 
Suit of damasked armour, known to have been worn by 
Henry VIII. (1509—1547); the stirrups are of great size. 
Two suits worn by Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, and 
Edwai’d Clinton, Earl of Lincoln. Grand suit for man and 
horse in central recess (behind you) of German workman¬ 
ship, very fine, and originally gilt, made to commemorate the 
union of Henry VIII. and Katherine of Aragon. The badges 
of this king and queen, the rose and pomegranate, are en¬ 
graved on various parts of the armour. Henry’s badges, the 
Portcullis, the Fleur-de-lys, and the Red Dragon, also appear; 
and on the edge of the lamboys or skirts are the initials of the 
royal pair, “ H.K.,” united by a true-lover’s knot. Observe, 
very curious scenes of martyrdoms of Saints engraved on the 
ai'mour of the horse. This is supposed to have been a present 
from the Emperor Maximilian to Henry. Suit of the time 
of Edward VI. (1547—1553), embossed and embellished with 
the badges of Burgundy and Granada. Suit assigned to 
Francis Hastings, Earl of Huntingdon (1555). Suit actually 
worn by Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester; the Earl’s initials, 
R. D., are engraved on the genouilleres, and his cognizance 
of the Bear and Ragged Staff on the chanfron of the horse. 
Suit assigned to Sir Henry Lea (1570), and formerly exhi¬ 
bited as the suit of William the Conqueror. Suit assigned 
to Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex (1581), and worn by the 
King’s champion at the coronation of George II. 

Ath Compartment ,—Eight arches painted with the Stuart 
colours, yellow and red. Suit of the time of James I., formerly 
shown as the suit of Henry IV. Suits assigned to Sir Horace 
Vere and Thomas, Earl of Arundel, of the time of James I. 
Suit made for Henry, Prince of Wales, eldest son of James I., 
richly gilt, and engraved with battles, sieges, &c. Suit assigned 
to George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham. Suit made for 
Charles I. when Prince of Wales. Suit assigned to Wentworth, 
Earl of Strafford. Richly gilt suit presented to Charles I., 
when Prince of Wales; this suit was laid on the coffin of the 
great Duke of Marlborough at his first interment in West¬ 
minster Abbey; the face of the king was carved by Grinling 


80 


XlII—TO\yER OF LONDON. 


Gibbons. Suit, with burgonet, assigned to Monk, Duke of 
Albemarle. Suit assigned to James II., but evidently of 
William III.’s reign, from the W.R engraved on several 
parts of it; the face was carved by Grinling Gibbons for 
Charles II. Weapons used in Monmouth’s rebellion. Observe, 
in other parts of the gallery, and in the cabinets, (ask the 
warder to show them to you,) suit of the time of Henry VIII., 
formerly exhibited as John of Gaunt’s. Suit, ‘‘rough from 
the hammer,” said in the old inventories to have belonged to 
Henry VIII. Asiatic suit (platform, north side) from Tong 
Castle, in Shropshire, probably of the ago of the Crusades, 
and the oldest armour in the Tower collection. “ Anticke 
head-piece,” with ram’s horns and spectacles on it, assigned 
in the old inventories to Will Somes, Hemy VIII.’s jester, 
and probably worn by him. The collection of Firearms and 
Artillery from an early period well deserves attention. 

From the Horse Armoury a short staircase leads into an 
antechamber filled with Oriental arms, weapons taken in the 
Indian campaigns from the Sikhs, Burmese, and Chinese, and 
a suit of armour, sent to Chaides II. by the Great Mogul. 
Ancient warder’s horn of carved ivory. Helmet, belt, 
straight sword, and scimitars of Tippoo Saib. Maltese 
cannon (of exquisite workmanship, “ Philip Lattarellus, 
delin. et sculp. 1773”) taken by the French in 1798, and, 
Avhilo on its passage from Malta to Paris, captured by 
Captain Foote, of the Seahorse frigate; the barrel is 
covered with figures in alto relievo ; in one paid; is the portrait 
of the Gi’and Master of Malta; the centre of each wheel 
I’epresents the sun. 

Queen Elizabeth’s Armoury is devoted to arms and armour 
really of her reign, figures of a bowman, bill man, mus- 
queteer, and pikeman—a knight in a tilting suit, ready for 
the lists. This interesting room (barbarously cased with 
wood in the Herman style) is within the White Towor; and 
the visitor would do woll to examine the walls (14 ft. thick), 
and to enter the cell, dark and small, the prison of Sir V'alter 
Ilaleigh. On your left (as you enter it) are three inscriptions 
rudely carved in the stone by prisoners, in the reign of Queen 
Mary, concerned in the plot of Sir Thomas Wyatt. 

“He that INDVRETir TO THE EXDE SHALL BE SAVID M. 10. E. RVDSON’ 
Gent. Ano. 1553.” 

“ Be faithful vnto the deth axd I wil give thee a crowxe of 
LIFE. T. Fane, 1554.” 

“ T. Culpeper of Darford.” 

Observe .—Two white bows of yew, recovered in 1841 from the 
wreck of the Mary Rose, sunk off Spithead in 1645; they are 


XIIT.—THE JEWEL-HOUSE. 


87 


fresh in appearance, as if they had been newly delivered out of 
the bowyer’s hands. Spontoon of the guard of Henry VIIT. 
“ Great Holly Water Sprincle with thre gonnes in the top,” of 
the time of Henry VIIL The “ Iron Coller of Torment taken 
from y® Spanyard in y® year 1588.” “The Cravat,” an iron 
instrument for confining at once the head, hands, and feet. 
Matchlock petronel ornamented with the badges-of HemyVIII., 
the rose surmounted by a crown and the fleur-de-lys, with 
the initials H.R., and other dewces. Partizan engraved with 
the arms of Sir Dudley Carletou, Viscount Dorchester, of the 
time of Charles I., and formerly exhibited as “ the Spanish 
General’s Staff.” Heading-axe, said to have been used in the 
execution of the Earl of Essex in the reign of Queen Eliza¬ 
beth. Block on which Lord Lovat was beheaded, in 1746; 
Lord Lovat was the last person beheaded in this country: it 
was a ne\o block for the occasion. Thurnbikins, or thumb¬ 
screws for torturing. A Lochaber axe. Matchlock arquebuse, 
time of Henry VIIL Shield of the sixteenth century, with 
the death of Charles the Bold in high relief upon it. The 
cloak on which General Wolfe died before Quebec. Sword 
and belt of the Duke of York, second son of King George III. 

The Jewel-home within the Tower (now transferrerl to 
the Bloody I'oioer) was kept by a particular officer called 
“The Master of the Jewel-house,” formerly esteemed the 
first Knight Bachelor of England. The treasures consti¬ 
tuting the Regalia are aiTanged in a glazed iron cage in 
the centre of a well-lighted room, with an ample passage 
for visitors to ^walk round. Observe. —St. Edward’s Crown, 
made for the coronation of Charles II., and used in the 
coronations of all our Sovereigns since his time. This is 
the crown placed by the Archbishop of Canterbuiy on the 
head of the Sovereign at the altar, and the identical crown 
which Blood stole from the Tower on the 9th of May, 1671. 
—The Crown, made for the coronation of Queen Victoria; 
a cap of purple velvet, enclosed by hoops of silvei’, and 
studded with a profusion of diamonds ; it weighs l|lb. The 
large unpolished ruby is said to have been worn by Edward 
the Black Prince; the sapphire is of great value, and the 
whole crown is estimated at 111,900?.—The Px'ince of Wales’s 
crown, of pure gold, unadorned by jewels.—The Queen 
Consort’s Crown, of gold, set with diamonds, pearls, &;c. 
—The Queen’s Diadem, or circlet of gold, made for the 
coronation of Maine d’Este, Queen of James II.—St. Ed¬ 
ward’s staff, of beaten gold, 4 feet 7 inches in length, sur¬ 
mounted by an orb and cross, and shod with a steel spike. 
The orb is said to contain a fragment of the true Cross.—The 


88 


XIII.—TOWER OF LONDON. 


Royal Sceptre, or Sceptre with the Cross, of gold, 2 feet 9 
inches in length ; the staff is plain, and the pommel is orna¬ 
mented with rubies, emeralds, and diamonds. The fleurs-de- 
lys Avith which this sceptre was formerly adorned have been 
replaced by golden leaves bearing the rose, shamrock, and 
thistle. The cross is covered with jewels of vai’ious kinds, 
and has in the centre a large table diamond.—The Rod of 
Equity, or Sceptre with the Dove, of gold, 3 feet 7 inches in 
length, set with diamonds, &c. At the top is an orb, banded 
with rose diamonds, and surmounted with a cross, on which 
is the figure of a dove with expanded wings.—The Queen’s 
Sceptre with the Cross, smaller in size, but of rich workman¬ 
ship, and set with precious stones.—The Queen’s Ivory 
Sceptre (but called the Sceptre of Queen Anna Boleyn), made 
for Marie d’Este, consort of James II. It is mounted in gold, 
and terminated by a golden cross, bearing a dove of white 
onyx.—Sceptre found behind the wainscotting of the old 
Jewel Office, in 1814; supposed to have been made for 
Queen Mary, consort of William III.—The Orb, of gold, 
6 inches in diameter, banded with a fillet of the same metal, 
set with peai’ls, and surmounted by a large amethyst sup¬ 
porting a cross of gold.—The Queen’s orb, of smaller 
dimensions, but of similar fashion and materials.—The Koli-i- 
Noor diamond, the prize of the army which conquered 
Lahore ; it belonged to Runjeet Singh.—The Sword of Mercy, 
or Curtana, of steel, ornamented with gold, and pointless. 
—The Swords of Justice, Ecclesiastical and Temporal.— 
The Armillse, or Coronation Bracelets, of gold, chased 
wdth the rose, fleur-de-lys, and harp, and edged with pearls. 
—The Royal Spurs, of gold, used in the coronation cere¬ 
mony, whether the sovereign be King or Queen.—The 
Ampulla for the Holy Oil, in shape of an eagle. —The Gold 
Coronation Spoon, used for receiving the sacred oil from the 
ampulla at the anointing of the sovereign, and supposed to 
be the sole relic of the ancient regalia.—The Golden Salt 
Cellar of State, in the shape of a castle.—Baptismal Font, of 
silver gilt, used at the Christening of the Royal Children— 
Silver Wine Fountain, presented to Charles II. by the coi'po- 
ration of Plymouth. 

The first stone of the Wellington BarracTcs, a* large build¬ 
ing of questionable castellated style, was laid by the Duke of 
Wellington, 1845, on the K. side of the White Tow’er, on the 
site of the Grand Storehouse, built by William III., and 
burned down Oct. 30th, 1841. The principal loss by that con¬ 
flagration was 280,000 stand of muskets and small arms, 
ready for use, but of antique make, “ Brown Bess ” with flint 


XIII.~ST. PETER’S CHURCH, T0V7ER. 89 

locks. The Oi’dnance stores in the Tower were estimated 
in 1849 at 640,023Z. 

St. Peter's ad Vincula, the church of the Liberty of the 
Tower, consists of a chancel, nave, and N. aisle; chiefly of 
the Perpendicular style, about the time of Henry VI.; but 
the whole structure has been disfigured so often by succes¬ 
sive alterations and additions, that little remains of the 
original building. 

General Lord de Ptos, the present Lieut.-Governor,has done 
his best to remove some of those barbarous novelties, which, 
to use the words of Macaxday, ‘‘transformed this interesting 
little church into the likeness of a meeting-house in a manu¬ 
facturing town. . . . 

“ In truth, there is no sadder spot on earth than this little cemetery. 
Death is there associated, not, as in Westminster Abbey and St. Paul’s, 
■nith genius and virtue, with public veneration and with imperishable 
renown ; not, as in our humblest churches and churchyards, with every¬ 
thing that is most endearing in social and domestic charities; but with 
whatever is darkest in human nature and in human destiny, with the 
savage triumph of implacable enemies, with the inconstancy, the in¬ 
gratitude, the cowardice of friends, with all the miseries of fallen great¬ 
ness and of blighted fame.”— Macaulay’s History of England, i. 628. 

Eminent Persons interred in St. Peter's Church .—Queen 
Anne Boleyn (beheaded 1536). 

“ Her body was thrown into a common chest of elm-tree, that was 
made to put arrows in, and was buried in the chapel within the Tower 
before twelve o’clock.”— Bishop Burnet. 

Queen Katherine Howard (beheaded 1542). — Sir Thomas 
More. 

“Ills head was put upon London Bridge; his body was buried in the 
chapel of St. Peter in the Tower, in the belfry, or as some say, as one 
entereth into the vestry, near unto the body of the holy martyr Bishop 
Fisher.”— Cresacre More's Life of Sir Thomas More, p. 2^. 

Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex (beheaded 1540). Margaret, 
Countess of Shrewsbury (beheaded 1541). Thomas, Lord 
Seymour of Sudley, the Lord Admiral (beheaded 1549), by 
order of his brother, the Protector Somerset. The Protector 
Somerset (beheaded 1552). John Dudley, Earl of Warwick 
and Duke of Northumberland (beheaded 1553). 

“ There lyeth before the High Altar, in St. Peter’s Church, two Duke.s 
between two Queenes, to wit, the Duke of Somerset and the Duke of 
Nortliumberland, between Queen Anne and Queen Katherine, all four 
beheaded.”— Stow, by Howes, p. 615. 

Lady Jane Grey and her husband, the Lord Guilford Dudley 
(beheaded 1553-4). Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex (be¬ 
headed 1600). Sir Thomas Overbury, poisoned in the Tower, 
and buried, according to the register, Sept. 15th, 1613. Sir 


90 


XriT.—TOWER OF LONDON. 


John Eliot died a prisoner in the Tower, N’ov. 27th, 1632; 
his son petitioned the King (Chai'les I.) that he would permit 
his father’s body to be conveyed to Cornwall for interment, 
but the King’s answer at the foot of the petition was, “ Let 
Sir John Eliot’s body be buried in the church of that parish 
where he died.” Okey, the regicide. Duke of Monmouth 
(beheaded 1685), buried beneath the communion-table, 
John Eotier (d. 1703), the eminent medallist, and rival of 
Simon. Lords Kilmarnock and Balmerino (beheaded 1746). 
Simon, Lord Lovat (beheaded 1747). Col. Gurwood, Editor 
of the Wellington Despatches (d. 1846). 

See Altar-tomb, with eflSgies of Sir Eichard Cholmondeley 
and his wife ; he was Lieutenant of the Tower in the reign of 
Henry VII. Monument, with kneeling figures, to Sir Eichard 
Blount, Lieutenant of the Tower (d. 1564), and his son and 
successor, Sir Michael Blount. Monument in chancel to Sir 
Allen Apsley, Lieutenant of the Tower (d. 1630), father of 
Mrs. Lucy Hutchinson. Inscribed stone on floor of nave, 
over the remains of Talbot Edwards (d. 1674), Keeper of 
the Eegalia when Blood stole the cro\vn. Here, in the 
lieutenancy of Pennington (the regicide Lord Mayor of 
London), one Kem, vicar of Low Leyton, in Essex, pi'eached 
in a gown over a buff coat and scarf. Laud, -svho was a 
prisoner in the Tower at the time, records the circumstance, 
with becoming horror, in the History of the Troubles. 

- Eminent Persons confined in the Toioer. —Wallace, Mor¬ 
timer.—John, King of France.—Charles, Duke of Orleans, 
father of Louis XII., who was taken prisoner at the battle of 
Agincourt. He acquired a very great proficiency in our 
language. A volume of his English poems, preserved in the 
British Museum, contains the earliest known representation 
of the Tower, engraved in Lord De Eos’ Memorials.— 
Queen Anne Boleyn, executed 1536, by the hangman of Calais, 
on a scaffold erected within the walls of the Tower.—Queen 
Katherine Howard, fourth wife of Henry VIII., beheaded, 
1541-2, on a scaffold erected within the walls of the Tower. 
Lady Eochford was executed at the same time.—Sir Thomas 
More.—Archbishop Cranmer.—Protector Somerset.—Lady 
Jane Grey, beheaded on a scaffold erected within the walls 
of the Tower.—Sir Thomas Wyatt, beheaded on Tower Hill. 
—Devereux, Earl of Essex, beheaded on a scaffold erected 
within the walls of the Tower.—Sir Walter Ealeigh. (He 
was on three different occasions a prisoner in the Tower; 
once in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, on account of his 
marriage, and twice in the reign of King James I. Here he 
began his History of the World; here he amused himself 


XIII. — EMINENT PERSONS CONFINED IN THE TOWER. 91 

with his chemical experiments; and here his son, Carew 
Raleigh, was born.)—Lady Arabella Stuart and her husband, 
William Seymour, afterwards Duke of Somerset. (Seymour 
escaped from the Tower.)—Countess of Somerset, (for Over- 
bury’s murder).—Sir John Eliot. (Here he wrote The 
Monarchy of Man; and here he died, in 1632.)—Earl of 
Strafford.—Archbishop Laud.—Lucy Barlow, mother of the 
Duke of Monmouth. (Cromwell discharged her from the 
Tower in July, 1656.)—Sir William Davenant.—Villiers 
second Duke of Buckingham.—Colonel Hutchinson, at the 
Restoration of Charles 11. 

“ His chamber was a room where ’tis said the two young princes, 
King Edward the Fifth and his brother, were murdered in former days, 
and the room that led to it was a dark great room, that had no window in 
it, where the portcullis to one of the inward Tower gates was drawn up 
and let down, under Avhich there sat every night a court of guard. There 
is a tradition that in this room the Duke of Clarence Avas drowned in a 
butt of Malmsey; from which murder this room and that joining it, where 
Mr. Hutchinson lay, was called the Bloody Tower.”— 31rs. Uutchinson. 

(Mrs. Hutchinson was the daughter of Sir Allen Apsley, 
Lieutenant of the Tower, was herself born in the Tower, 
and, therefore, well acquainted with the traditions of the 
building.)—Sir Harry Vane, the younger.—Duke of Buck¬ 
ingham.—Earl of Shaftesbury.—Earl of Salisbury, temp. 
Charles 11. (When Lord Salisbury was offered his atten¬ 
dants in the Tower, he only asked for his cook. The King 
was very angry.)—William, Lord Russell.—^Algernon Sydney. 
—Seven Bishops, June 8th, 1688.—Lord Chancellor Jeffries, 
1688.—The great Duke of Marlborough, 1692.—Sir Robert 
Walpole, 1712. (Granville, Lord Lansdowne, the poet, was 
afterwards confined in the same apartment, and wrote 
a copy of verses on the occasion.)—Harley, Earl of Oxford, 
1715.—William Shippen, M.P. for Saltash (for saying, in the 
House of Commons, of a speech from the throne, by George I., 
^‘that the second paragraph of the King’s speech seemed 
rather to bo calculated for the meridian of Germany than 
Great Britain; and that ’twas a great misfortune that the 
King was a stranger to our language and constitution.” Ho 
is the ‘‘downright Shippen” of Pope’s poems).—Bishop 
Atterbury, 1722. 

“ How pleasing Atterbury’s softer hour. 

How shone his soul unconquered in the Tower! ”— Pope. 

At his last interview with Pope, Atterbury presented him 
with a Bible. When Atterbury was in the Tower, Lord 
Cadogan was asked, “What shall we do with the man?” 


92 


XIII.—TOWER OF LONDON. 


His reply was, Fling him to the lions.”)—Dr. Freind. (Here 
he wrote his History of Medicine.)—Earl of Derwentwater, 
Earl of Hithsdale, Lord Kenmuir. Derwentwater and 
Kenmuir were executed on Tower Hill. (Lord Nithsdale 
escaped from the Tower, Feb. 28th, 1715, dressed in a 
woman’s clothes, cloak and hood, provided by his heroic 
wife. The history of his escape, contrived and effected by 
his countess, with admirable coolness and intrepidity, is 
given by hei'self in an interesting letter to her sister,—see 
Mahon’s ‘‘Histoiy of England,” vols. i. and ii.)—Lords 
Kilmarnock, Balmerino, and Lovat, 1746. (The block on 
which Lord Lovat was beheaded is preserved in Queen 
Elizabeth’s Armoury.)—John Wilkes, 1762.—Lord George 
Gordon, 1780.—Sir Francis Burdett, April 6th, 1810.—Arthur 
Thistlewood, 1820, the last person sent a prisoner to the 
Tower. 

Persons murdered in. —Henry VI.—Duke of Clarence 
drowned in a butt of Malmsey in a room in the Bowyer, 
or rather, it is thought. Bloody, Tower.—Edward V. and 
Richard, Duke of York: their supposed remains (preserved 
in a cenotaph in Westminster Abbey) were found in the 
reign of Charles IL, while digging the foundation for the 
present stone stairs to the Chapel of the White Tower.—Sir 
Thomas Ovei’bury. (He was committed to the Tower, April 
21st, 1613, and found dead in the Tower on SepL 14th 
following. The manner of his poisoning is one of the most 
interesting and mysterious chapters in English History.)— 
Arthur Capel, Earl of Essex. (He was formd in the Tower 
with his throat cut, July 13th, 1638.) 

Persons horn in. —Carew Raleigh (Sir Walter Raleigh’s son). 
—Mrs. Hutchinson, the biographer of her husband.—Countess 
of Bedford (daughter of the infamous Countess of Somerset, 
and mother of William, Lord Russell). 

The high ground outside to the K.W. of the Tower is 
called Tower Hill. Here till within the last 150 years stood a 
large scaffold and gallows of timber, for the execution of such 
traitors or transgressors as were delivered out of the Tower, 
or otherwise, to the sheriffs of London for execution. 

Executions on Tower Hill. —Bishop Fisher, 1535. — Sir 
Thomas More, 1535. 

“ Going up the scaffold, whichVas so weak that it was ready to fall, he 
said hurriedly to the Lieutenant, ‘ I pray you, Master Lieutenant, see me 
safe up, and for my coming down let me shift for myself.’ ”— Roper's Life. 

Cromwell, Earl of Essex, 1540. — Margaret, Countess of 
Shrewsbury, mother of Cardinal Pole, 1541.—Earl of Surrey, 


Xlir.—TOWER HILL. 


93 


the poet, 1547.—Thomas, Lord Seymour of Sudley, the 
Lord Admiral, beheaded, 1549, by order of his brother the 
Protector Somei'set.—The Protector Somerset, 1552.—Sir 
Thomas Wyatt. — John Dudley, Earl of Warwick and 
Northumberland, 1553.—Lord Guilford Dudley, (husband 
of Lady Jane Grey,) 1553-4.—Sir Geiwase Helwys, Lieutenant 
of the Tower, (executed for his share in the murder of Sir 
Thomas Overbury.)—Earl of Strafford, 1641.—Archbishop 
Laud, 1644-5.—Sir Harry Vane, the younger, 1662.—Viscount 
Stafford, 1680, beheaded on the perjured evidence of Titus 
Oates, and others.—Algernon Sydney, 1683.—Duke of Mon¬ 
mouth,, 1685.—Earl of Derwentwater and Lord Kenmuir, 
implicated in the rebellion of 1715.—Lords Kilmarnock and 
Balmerino, 1746.—Simon, Lord Lovat, 1747, was not only 
the last person beheaded on Tower Hill, but the last person 
beheaded in this country. 

Llewellyn’s head was placed on the walls of the Tower. 
Lady Raleigh lodged on Tower Hill while her husband was 
a prisoner in the Tower. William Penn, the founder of 
Pennsylvania, was born (1644) on the E. side of Tower Hill, 
within a court adjoining to London AVall. At a public- 
house on Tower Hill, known by the sign of the Bull, whither 
he had withdrawn to avoid his creditors, Otway, the poet, 
died (it is said, of want) Apill 14th, 1685. At a cutler’s 
shop on Tower Hill, Felton bought the knife with which 
he stabbed the first Duke of Buckingham of the Villiers 
family; it was a broad, sharp, hunting knife, and cost Is. 
The second duke often repaired in disguise to the lodging of 
a poor person, “ about Tower Hill,” who professed skill in 
horoscopes. 

The area of the Tower, within the walls, is 12 acres and 
5 poles; and the circuit outside of the ditch is 1050 
yai*ds. 


94 


XIV.—CHURCHES—WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 


XIV.-CHURCHES. 


Op the 98 parish churches within the walls of the City of 
London, at the time of the Great Fire, 85 were burnt down, 
and 13 unburnt; 53 were rebuilt, and 35 united to other 
parishes. “It is observed and is true in the late Fire of 
London,” says Pepys in his Diary, “ that the fire burned just 
as many parish churches as there were hours from the begin¬ 
ning to the end of the Fire; and next that there were just 
as many churches left standing in the rest of the city that 
was not burned, being, I think, 13 in all of each.” There is a 
talk of removing many of the City churches to localities with 
larger Sunday population. 

The following is the Yearly Value of some of the Church 
Livings in London :— 


St. Botolph’s, Bishopsgate £ 1650 


St. Giles’s, Cripplegate . . 1580 
St. Olave’s, E^-t-street . 1891 
St. Andrew’s, nolborn . . 950 

St. Catherine Coleman . 650 

St. Bartholomew the Less 30 
Lambeth.1500 


St. Maiylebone . . . 1250 

St. George’s, Hanover-square 700 
St. James’s, Westminster . 1160 
St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields . 830 

All Souls’, Langham-place . 850 

St. Mary’s, Islington . . 1155 

St. Luke’s, Chelsea. . . 1003 


The income of the Bishop of London is fixed at 10,000Z. 


a-year. 


WESTMINSTER ABBEY, or the Collegiate Church of 
St. Peter’s, Westminster,* originally a Benedictine monas¬ 
tery—the “ minster west ” of St. Paul’s, London. Here our 
Kings and Queens have been crowned, from Edward the 
Confessor to Queen Victoria; and here very many of them 
are buried, some with and others without monuments. 

A church existed here in the days of King Offa. A new 
one was erected by Edward the Confessor about 1065. No 
part of the present church can be identified with that, but 
there ai'e remains of his building in the substructure of 
the Dormitory, or Chapel of the Pix, in the dark cloister 
south of the south transept. The oldest part of the present 
Abbey Church, the choir and transepts, date from the reign 
of Heniy III., and are eaidy pointed in style. The four 
bays west of the transept are of Edwai’d the First’s time, 
and Eai’ly Dec. style; the I’emainder, to the west door, of 
the fifteenth century, built under Sir Richard Whittington, 
Lord Mayor, as Commissioner. 

See Doan Stanley’s “Memorials of Westminster Abbey,’’ 2n<i ed. 
with plates, 1870, a most interesting and comprehensive work. 



XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEY.—CHAPELS. 


95 


Dimensions. —Length, 416 feet, ditto of transept, 203 feet, 
ditto of choir, 155 feet; height from pavement, 101 feet 8 
inches, height of toAvers, 225 feet, 

Henry VII.’s Chapel is late Perpendicular, richly orna¬ 
mented with panelling, &c.; and the western towers, de¬ 
signed by Wren, are in a debased style of mixed Grecian 
and Gothic. 

The Abbey, including the Eoyal Chapel, is open to public 
inspection, on week days, from 11 to 3 generally; and also 
in the summer months between 4 and 6 hi the afternoon. 
The Nave, Transepts, and Cloisters are free. The charge for 
admission to the rest of the Abbey (through which you are 
accompanied by a guide) is 6d. each person. On Mondays 
it is open gratis. The entrance is at the south transept, 
known as “ Poets’ Comer.” The public are not admitted 
to view the monuments on Sundays, Good Friday, Christ¬ 
mas Day, or Fast Days, or during the hours of Divine 
Service, viz., Sundays, at 10 a.m., at 3 p.m., and Evening 
Service in the Nave at 7 p.m., and daily at 7.45 a.m., 10 a.m., 
and 3 p.m. About 2000 people attend the Sunday evening 
services. 

The usual plan observed in viewing the Abbey is to 
examine Poets’ Corner (see further on), and wait till a sufficient 
party is formed for a guide to accompany you through the 
chapels. If you find a party formed, you will save time by 
joining it at once. You can examine the open parts of the 
building aftenvards at your own convenience. Observe, in 
the chapel, at the end of the E. aisle of S. transept—Part of 
an altar-decoration of the 13th or 14th century, 11 feet long 
by 3 feet high, under glass. 

“ In the centre is a figure, intended for Christ, holding the globe, and 
in the act of blessing; an angel with a palm branch is on each side. 
The single figure at the left hand of the whole decoration is St. Peter. 
The compartments not occupied by figures were adorned with a deep- 
blue glass resembling lapis lazuli, with gold lines of foliage executed 
on it. The smaller spaces and mouldings were enriched with cameos 
and gems, some of Avhich still remain. That the work was executed in 
England there can be little doubt .”—Eastlake on Oil Fainting, p. 176. 

The first chapel you are shotvn is called the Chapel of 
St. Benedict,” or the “ Chapel of the Deans of the College,” 
several of whom are buried here. The principal tombs are 
those of Langham, Archbishop of Canterbury (d. 1376); the 
Countess of Hertfokd, sister to the Lord High Admiral 
Nottingham, so famous for his share in the defeat of the 
Spanish Armada (d. 1598); and Lionel Cranfield, Earl of 
Middlesex, and Lord High Treasurer in the reign of James I. 
(d. 1645). 

The second chapel is that of '‘St. Edmund,” containing 20 


96 


XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 


monuments, of which that on your right as you enter, to 
William de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, half-brother to 
Henry III., and father of Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pem¬ 
broke (d. 1296), is the first in point of time and also the 
most important; the effigy exhibits the earliest existing 
instance in this country of the use of enamelled metal for 
monumental purposes. The other tombs and monuments of 
importance in this chapel are—tomb of John of Eltham, 
son of Edward II.; tomb with miniature alabaster figures, 
representing William of Windsor and Blanch de la Tour, 
children of Edward III.; monumental brass (the best in 
the Abbey), representing Eleanora de Bohun, Duchess of 
Gloucester, in her conventual dress, as a nun of Barking 
Abbey (d. 1399); monumental brass of Kobert de Waldeby, 
Archbishop of York (d. 1397); effigy of Frances, Duchess of 
Suffolk, grand-daughter of Henry VII., and mother of Lady 
Jane Grey; and alabaster statue of Elizabeth Russell, of the 
Bedford family—foohshly shown for many yeai’S as the lady 
who died by the pi'ick of a needle. 

The third chapel is that of “ St. Nicholas,” containing the 
monument of the wife of the Protector Somerset; the great 
Lord Burghley’s monument to his wife Mildred, and their 
daughter Anne; Sir Robert Cecil’s monument to his wife; 
and a large altar-tomb in the area, to the father and mother 
of Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, the Steenie of James I. 

The fourth chapel is that of the Virgin Maiy,” called 
“ Henry VH.’s Chapel,” and entered by a flight of twelve steps 
beneath the Oratory of Hemy V. The entrance gates are of 
oak, ovei’laid with brass, gilt, and wrought into various de¬ 
vices—the portcullis exhibiting the descent of the founder 
from the Beaufort family, and the crown and twisted roses 
the union that took place, on Heniy’s marriage, of the White 
Rose of York with the Red Rose of Lancaster. The chapel 
consists of a central aisle, with five small chapels at the east 
end, and two side aisles, north and south. The banners and 
stalls appertain to the Knights of the Most Honourable Mili- 
taiy Order of the Bath, an order of merit next in rank in this 
country to the Most Noble Order of the Garter; the knights 
were formerly installed in this chapel; and the Dean of 
Westminster is Dean of the Order. The principal monuments 
in Henry VII.’s Chapel are—altar-tomb with effigies of 
Henry VII. and Queen (in the centre of the chapel), the 
work of Peter Torrigiano, an Italian sculptor :—Lord Bacon 
calls it “ one of the stateliest and daintiest tombs in Europe 
—the heads of the King and Queen were originally sur¬ 
mounted with crowns; the Perpendicular enclosure or 


XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEV. 


97 


screen is of brass, richly gilt, and the work of an English 
artist. In the vault beneath, besides Henry VIII,, and Eliza¬ 
beth of York,is the coflSn of James I. In South Aisle. —Altar- 
tomb, with effigy of brass gilt and enamelled (by Peter Tor- 
rigiano) of Margaret, Countess of Richmond, mother of Henry 
VII. Altar-tomb, with effigy of the mother of Lord Darnley, 
husband of Mary, Queen of Scots, Tomb, with effigy (by 
Cornelius Cure) of Mary, Queen of Scots, erected by James I., 
who brought his mother’s body from Peterborough Cathedral, 
and buried it here. The face is very beautiful, and is now 
generally admitted to be the most genuine likeness of the 
Queen. Monument to George Vilhers, Duke of Buckingham, 
and his duchess;—the duke was assassinated by Felton in 
1628: his younger son, Francis, who was killed in the Civil 
Wars, and his eldest son, the second and profligate duke, are 
buried with their father in the vault beneath. Statue of the 
first wife of Sir Robert Walpole, erected by her son, Horace 
Walpole, the great letter-writer. In North Aisle —Tomb 

with effigy (by Maximilian Coult) of Queen Elizabeth (the 
lion-hearted Queen); her sister. Queen Mary, is buried in the 
same grave. Alabaster cradle, with effigy of Sophia, daughter 
of James I., who died when only three days old : James I, 
and Anne of Denmai’k, Henry Prince of Wales, the Queen of 
Bohemia, and Arabella Stuaii; are buried beneath. Monu¬ 
ment to Lodowick Stuai’t, Duke of Richmond and Lennox, 
and his duchess, of the time of James I, (La Belle Stuart is 
buried beneath this monument). Monument to George 
Monk, Duke of Albemarle, who restored King Charles 11. 
Sarcophagus of white marble, containing certain bones acci¬ 
dentally discovered (1674) in a wooden chest below the stairs 
which formerly led to the chapel of the White Tower, and 
believed to be the I’emains of Edwai’d V. and his brother 
Richard, Duke of York, murdered (1483) by order of their 
uncle. Kin g Richard III. Monuments to Saville, Marquis of 
Halifax, the statesman and wit (d. 1695);—to Montague, 
Earl of Halifax, the patron of the men of genius of his 
time (d. 1715), (here Addison and Craggs are buried)—to 
Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham, the patron of Dryden, with 
its inscription, ‘^Dubius, sed non Improbus, Vixi.” Recum¬ 
bent figure, by Sir R. Westmacott, of the Duke of Mont- 
pensier, brother to Louis Philippe, late King of the French. 
The statues in the architecture of this chapel are commended 
by Flaxman for “their natural simplicity and grandeur of 
character and drapery.” Charles II., Wilham and Mary, and 
Queen Anne are buried in a vault at the east end of the south 
aisle ;—George Il-'and Queen Caroline,—Frederick, Prince of 


98 


XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 


Wales, the father of Geoi’ge III.,—and William, Duke of 
Cumberland, the hero of Culloden, in a vault in the central 
aisle. The remains of George II. and his Queen lie mingled 
together, a side having been taken by the King’s own direction 
from each of the coffins for this purpose : the two sides which 
were withdrawn "were seen standuig against the wall when 
the vault was opened for the last time in 1837. 

The fifth chapel is “ St. Paul’s.” Observe. —Altar-tomb on 
your right as you enter to Lodowick Eobsart, Lord Bourchier, 
standard-bearer to Henry V. at the battle of Agincourt. 
Altar-tomb of Sir Giles Daubeny (Lord Chamberlain to 
Henry VII.) and his lady. Stately monument against the 
wall to Sir Thomas Bromley, Lord Chancellor of England in 
the reign of Queen Elizabeth; he sat as Chancellor at the 
trial of Mary, Queen of Scots, at Fothexangay. Monuments 
to Viscount Dorchester^ and Francis, Lord Cottington, of the 
time of Charles I. Colossal portrait-statue of James Watt, 
the great engineer, by Sir Francis Chantrey—cost 6000Z.; 
the inscription by Lord Brougham. Archbishop Usher is 
bmied in this chapel;—his funeral was conducted with great 
pomp by command of Cromwell, who bore half the expense 
of it; the other half fell very heavily on his relations. 

The sixth chapel (the most interesting of all) occupies the 
space at the back of the high altar of the Abbey; is called 
the “ Chapel of St. Edward the Confessor,” or the “ Chapel 
of the Kings,” and is entered from the ambulatory by a tem- 
porai’y staircase. The centre of this chapel is taken up by 
the shrine of King Edward the Confessor, erected in the 
reign of Henry HI., and richly inlaid with mosaic work : of 
the original Latin inscription, only a few letters remain. 
The wainscot addition at the top was erected in the reign of 
Mary I., by Abbot Fekenham. Hemy IV. was seized with 
his last illness while performing his devotions at this shrine. 
No part of this chapel should be overlooked. Observe .— 
Altar-tomb, with good bronze effigy of Henry III. (work 
of William Torell). Altar-tomb of Edward L, composed of 
five large slabs of Purbeck marble, and carrying this appro¬ 
priate inscription:— 

“EDWAEDVS PRIMVS SCOTORVM malleus— nic EST.” 

When the tomb was opened in 1774, the body of the King 
was discovered almost entire, with a crown of tin gilt upon 
his head, a sceptre of copper gilt in his right hand, and a 
sceptre and dove of the same materials in his left; and in 
this state he is still lying. Altar-tomb, with effigy of Eleanor, 
Queen of Edward I.; tlie figure of the Queen was the work 



GROUND PLAN OF AVESTMINSTER ABBEY^^_ h2 


South Cloister. 



































100 


XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 


of Master William Torell, goldsmith, and citizen of London, 
and is deservedly admired for its simplicity and beauty; 
the iron work (restored) was the work of a smith living 
at Leighton Buzzard, in Bedfordshire. Altar-tomb, with 
effigy of Edward III. ; the sword and shield of state, 
carried before the King in France, are placed by the side 
of the tomb. Altar-tomb, with effigy of Philippa, Queen of 
Edward III. Altai'-tomb, with effigies of Eichard II. and 
his Queen. Altar-tomb and chantry of Henry V., the hero 
of Agincourtthe head of the King was of solid silver, and 
the figure was plated with the same metal; the head was 
stolen at the Eeformation; the helmet, shield, and saddle of 
the King are still to be seen on a bar above the tui'rets of the 
chantry. Grey slab, formerly adorned -with a rich brass 
figure (a few nails are still to be seen), covering the remains 
of Thomas of Woodstock, youngest son of Edward III., mur¬ 
dered by order of his nephew, Eichard II. Small altar-tomb 
of Mai’garet of York, infant daughter of Edward IV. Small 
altar-tomb of Elizabeth Tudor, infant daughter of Henry VII. 
Brass, much worn, representing John de Waltham, Bishop of 
Salisbury, and Lord High Treasurer of England in the reign 
of Eichard II.: Eichard loved him so much, that ho 
ordered his body to be buried in the Chapel of the Kings. 
The two Coronation Chairs, still used at the coronations of 
the Sovereigns of Great Britain—one containing the famous 
stone of Scone on which the Scottish Kings were crowned, 
and which Edward I. carried away with him, as an evidence 
of his absolute conquest of Scotland. This stone is 26 inches 
long, 16 inches wide, and 11 inches thick, and is fixed in the 
bottom of the chair by cramps of iron; it is nothing more 
than a piece of reddish-grey sandstone squai’ed and smoothed; 
—the more modern chair was made for the coronation of 
Mary, Queen of William III. The screen dividing the chapel 
from the Choir was erected in the reign of Henry VI.: 
beneath the cornice runs a series of 14 sculptures in bas- 
relief, representing the principal events, real and imaginary, 
in the hfe of Edward the Confessor; the pavement of the 
chapel, much worn, is contemporary -wfith the shrine of the 
Confessor. 

The seventh chapel is that of ‘‘ St. Erasmus,” and through 
it (it has nothing to detain you) you enter the eighth chapel, 
dedicated to “ St. John the Baptist,” containing the tombs of 
several early Abbots of Westminster; Abbot Wilham de 
Colchester (d. 1420); Abbot Mylling (d. 1492); Abbot 
Fascet (d. 1500). Obsei've .—The very large and stately 
monument to Qary, Lord Hunsdon, first cousin and Cham- 


XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 


101 


berlain to Queen Elizabeth. Large altar-tomb of Cecil, Earl 
of Exeter (eldest son of the great Lord Burghley), and his 
two wives; the vacant space is said to have been intended 
for the statue of his second countess, but she disdainfully 
refused to lie on the left side. Monument to Colonel 
Popham, one of Cromwell’s ofiQcers at sea, and the only 
monument to any of the Parliamentary party suffered to 
remain in the Abbey at the Restoration; the inscription, 
however, was turned to the wall; his remains were removed 
at the same time with those of Cromwell, Ireton, Bradshaw, 
Blake, &c. 

The ninth chapel is that of “ Abbot Islip,” containing his 
altar-tomb (d. 1532), and the monument to the great-nephew 
and heir of Sir Christopher Hatton, Queen Elizabeth’s 
Lord Chancellor. The Hatton vault was purchased by 
William Pulteuey, Earl of Bath, who is here intei'red, and 
whose monument, by the side of General Wolfe’s, is without 
the chapel, in the aisle of the Abbey. The Wolfe monument 
was the work of Wilton, and cost 3000Z.: the bas-relief (in 
lead, bronzed over) representing the march of the British 
troops from the river bank to the Heights of Abraham, is by 
Capizzoldi. 

The E. aisle of the North Transept was formerly divided 
by screens into the Chapels of St. John, St. Michael, and 
St. Andrew. Observe two remarkable monuments—Four 
knights kneeling, and supporting on their shoulders a table, 
on which lie the several parts of a complete suit of armour ; 
beneath is the recumbent figure of Sir Francis Vere, the 
great Low Country soldier of Queen Elizabeth’s reign, by 
Nicholas Stone. Monument by Roubiliac (one of the last and 
best of his works) to Mr. and Mrs. Nightingale; the bottom 
of the monument represents a sheeted skeleton throwing 
open its marble doors', and launching his dart at the lady, 
who has sunk affrighted into her husband’s arms. “ The 
dying woman,” says Allan Cunningham, “ would do honour 
to any ai’tist. Her right arm and hand are considered 
by sculptors as the perfection of fine workmanship. Life 
seems slowly receding from her tapenng fingers and quivering 
wrist.” When Roubiliac was erecting this monument, he 
was found one day by Gayfere, the Abbey mason, standing 
with his arms folded, and his looks fixed on one of the 
knightly figures which support the canopy over the statue 
of Sir Francis Vere. As Gayfere approached, the enthusiastic 
Frenchman laid his hand on his arm, pointed to the figure, 
and said, in a whisper, “ Hush ! hush ! he vil speak pre¬ 
sently.” 


102 


XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 


The Choir, or cross of the transepts, affords the best point 
of view for examining the architecture of the Abbej'. 
Observe. —Tomb of Sebert, King of the East Saxons, erected 
by the abbots and monks of Westminster, in 1308 ; tomb of 
Edmund Crouchback, Earl of Lancaster, second son of 
Edward III.; tomb of his countess; tomb of Aymer de 
Valence, Earl of Pembroke (very fine—one of the best views 
of it is from the K. aisle). 

“ The monuments of Aymer de Valence and Edmund Crouchback are 
specimens of the magnificence of our sculpture in the reign of the two 
first Edwards. The loftiness of the work, the number of arches and 
pinnacles, the lightness of the spires, the richness and profusion of 
foliage and crockets, the solemn repose of the principal statue, the 
delicacy of thought in the group of angels bearing the soul, and the 
tender sentiment of concern variously expressed in the relations ranged 
in order round the basement, forcibly arrest the attention, and carry the 
thoughts not only to other ages, but to other states of existence.”— 
Flaxman. 

Tomb of Ann of Cloves, one of King Henry YIII.’s six wives. 
The rich mosaic pavement is an excellent specimen of the 
Opus Alexandrinum, and was placed here at the expense of 
Henry III., in the year 1268. The black and white pavement 
was laid at the expense of Dr. Busby, master of Westminster 
School. 

You now enter the Korth Transept, where you will Ob¬ 
serve —The inscribed stones covering the graves of the rival 
statesmen, Pitt and Fox. 

“ The mighty chiefs sleep side by side; 

Droj) tipon Fox’s grave the tear, 

’Twill trickle to his rival’s bier.”— Sir Walter Scott. 

Grattan, Canning, Castlereagh, and Palmerston; and the fol¬ 
lowing monuments—to the Duke and Duchess of Newcastle, 
of the time of Charles I. and II. ' Roubiliac’s monument 
to Sir Peter Warren, containing his fine figure of Navigation ; 
Rysbrach’s monument to Admiral Vernon, who distinguished 
himself at Carthagena; Bacon’s noble monument to the 
great Lord Chatham, erected by the King and Parliament— 
cost 6000Z. 

“ Bacon there 

Gives more than female beauty to a stone. 

And Chatham’s eloquence to marble lips.” 

Coioper, The Task. 

Nollekens’ large monument to the three naval captains who 
fell in Rodney’s great victory of April 12th, 1782, erected by 
the King and Parliament—cost 4000Z.; Flaxman’s noble 
portrait-statue of the great Lord Mansfield, with Wisdom 


XTV.—^*VVESTM1NSTER ABBEY. 


103 


Oil one side, Justice on the other, and behind the figure of 
a youth, a criminal, by Wisdom delivered up to Justice— 
erected by a private person, who bequeathed 2500^. for the 
purpose ; statue of Sir W. Follett, by Behnes; small monu- 
tnent, with bust, to Warren Hastings—erected by his widow; 
Sir R. Westmacott’s Mrs. Warren and Child—one of the best 
of Sir Richard’s works; Chantrey’s three portrait-statues of 
Fi’ancis Horner, George Canning, and Sir John Malcolm; and 
Gibson’s standing statue of Sir Robert Peel. The statue 
without an inscription is meant for John Philip Kemble, 
the actor. It was modelled by Flaxman, and executed by 
Hinchcliffe after Flaxman’s death. It is very poor. In the X. 
aisle of the Choir (on your way to the Have), Observe — 
Tablets to Henry Purcell (d. 1695), and Dr. Blow (d. 1708), 
two of our greatest English musicians—the Purcell inscrip¬ 
tion is attributed to Dryden; portrait-statues of Sir Stamford 
Raffles, by Chantrey; and of Wilberforce, by S. Joseph. 

Observe in Nave .—Small stone, in the middle of the N. 
aisle (fronting Killigrew’s monument), inscribed, 0 Rare 
Ben Jonson.” The poet is buried here standing on his feet, 
and the inscription was done, as Aubrey relates, “ at the 
charge of Jack Young (afterwards knighted), who, walking 
here when the grave was covering, gave the fellow eighteen- 
pence to cut it.” When the nave was re-laid, about seventeen 
years ago, the true stone was taken away, and the present 
uninteresting square placed in its stead. Tom Killigrew, the 
wit, is buried by the side of Jonson; and liis son, who fell 
'at the battle of Almanza, in 1707, has a monument imme¬ 
diately opposite. Monument, with inscriptions in Hebrew, 
Greek, Ethiopic, and English, to Sir Samuel Morland’s wives; 
— Morland was secretary to Thurloe, Oliver Cromwell’s 
secretaiy. Monument to Sir Palmes Fairborne, with a fine 
epitaph in veree by Dryden. Monument to Sir William 
Temple, the statesman and author, his wife, sister-in-law, and 
child;—this was erected pursuant to Temple’s will. Monu¬ 
ment to Sprat, the poet, and friend of Cowley. (Bishop 
Atterbury is buried opposite this monument, in a vault 
which he made for himself when Dean of Westminster, “ as 
far,” he says to Pope, “from kmgs and ksesars as the space 
will admit of.”) Monument, with bust, of Sidney, Earl of 
Godolphin, chief minister to Queen Anne “during the first 
nine glorious years of her reign.” Monument to Heneage 
Twysden, who wrote the genealogy of the Lickerstaff family 
in the Tatler, and fell at the battle of Blaregnies in 1709. 
Monument to Secretary Craggs, with fine epitaph in verse by 
Pope. Sitting statue of Wordsworth, the poet, by Lough. 


lOi 


XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEY—NAVE, 


Monumeiit to Congreve, the poet, erected at the expense 
of Henrietta, Duchess of Marlborough, to whom, for reasons 
not known or mentioned, he bequeathed a legacy of about 
10,000Z. 

“ Wlien the younger Duchess exposed herself by placing a monument 
and silly epitaph of her own composing and bad spelling to Congreve in 
Westminster Abbey, her mother quoting the words said, ‘I know not 
what pleasure she might have had in his company, but I am sure it was 
no honour.’ ”— Horace Walpole. 

In front of Congreve’s monument Mrs. Oldfield, the actress, 
is buried, '‘in a very fine Brussells lace head,” says her 
maid; “ a Holland shift with a tucker and double ruffles of 
the same lace; a pair of new kid gloves, and her body 
wrapped up in a winding-sheet.” Hence the allusion of the 
satirist;— 

“ Odious! in woollen; 'twould a saint provoke! 

(Were the last words that poor Narcissa spoke)— 

No, let a charming chintz and Brussels lace 
Wrap my cold limbs, and shade my lifeless face; 

One would not, sure, be frightful when one’s dead— 

And—Betty—give this cheek a little red.”— Pope. 

Under the organ-screen—Monuments to Sir Isaae Newton, 
designed by Kent, and executed by Rysbrach—cost 500Z., 
and to Earl Stanhope. To Dr. Mead, the physician (d. 1754). 
Three monuments by Roubiliac, in three successive win¬ 
dows ; to Field-Marshal Wade, whose part in putting down 
the Rebellion of 1745 is matter of history; to Major- 
General Fleming, and Lieutenant-General Hargrave. The 
absurd monument, by Nicholas Read, to Rear-Admiral Tyrrel 
(d. 1766) : its common name is “The Pancake Monument.” 
Heaven is represented with clouds and cherubs, the depths 
of the sea with rocks of coral and madrepore; the admiral is 
seen ascending into heaven, while Hibernia sits in the sea 
with her attendants, and points to the spot where the 
admiral’s body was committed to the deep. Monument of 
Major-General Stringer Lawrence, erected by the East India 
Company, “in testimony of their gi’atitude for his eminent 
services in the command of their forces on the coast of 
Coromandel, from 1746 to 1756.” Monument, by Flaxman, 
to Captain Montague, who fell in Lord Howe’s victoiy of 
June 1st. Monument to Major Andrd, executed by the 
Americans as a spy in the year 1780:—erected at the 
expense of George III., and the figure of Washington on 
the bas-relief has been renewed with a head on three diffe¬ 
rent occasions, “the wanton mischief of some schoolboy,” 


XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 


105 


Bays Charles Lamb, “fired, perhaps, with raw notious of 
transatlantic freedom. The mischief was done,” he adds, 
—he is addressing Southey,—“about the time that you 
were a scholar there. Do you know anything about the 
unfortunate relic!” This sly allusion to the early political 
principles of the great poet caused a temporary cessation of 
friendship with the essayist.—Sir R. Westmacott’s monument 
to Spencer Perceval, First Lord of the Treasury and Chan¬ 
cellor of the Exchequer, shot by Bellingham in the lobby of 
the House of Commons in 1812—cost 6250^. Monuments to 
William Pitt—cost 6300Z.; and C. J. Fox (there is no inscrip¬ 
tion) ; both by Sir Richard Westmacott. Terminal busts to 
Zachary Macaulay, father of the historian, and Sir James 
Mackintosh. Monument by Baily, R.A., to Vassall Fox, Lord 
Holland. Obsen-e .—In south aisle of Choir, recumbent 
figure of William Thynn, Receiver of the Marches in the 
reign of Henry VIII. Good bust, by Le Soeur, of Lord 
Chief Justice Richardson, in the reign of Charles I. Monu¬ 
ment to Thomas Thynn, of Longleat, who was barbarously 
murdered on Sunday the 12th of February, 1682; he was 
shot in his coach, and the bas-relief contains a representation 
of the event. 

“ A Welshman bragging of his family, said his father’s effigy was set 
up in Westminster Abbey: being asked whereabouts, he said, ‘In the 
same monument with Squire Thynn, for he was his coachman.’ "—Joe 
Miller's Jests. 

Monument to Dr. South, the great divine (d. 1716); he was 
a prebendary of this church. Monument, by F. Bird (in the 
worst taste), to Sir Cloudesley Shovel (d. 1707). Monument 
to Dr. Busby, master of Westminster School (d. 1695) 
* Honorary monument to Sir Godfrey Kneller, with fine 
epitaph in verse by Pope. Honorary monument, by T. Banks, 
R.A., to Dr. Isaac Watts (d. 1741), who was buried in Bunhill- 
fields. Bust, by Flaxman, of Pasquale de Paoli, the Corsican 
chief (d. 1807). Monument to Dr. Burney, the Greek scholar ; 
the inscription by Dr. Parr. 

In Poets' Cornerj occupying nearly a half of the South 
Transept, and so called from the tombs and honorary monu¬ 
ments of Chaucer, Spenser, Shakspeare, and several of our 
greatest poets, Observe —Tomb of Geoffrey Chaucer, the 
father of English poetry (d. 1400); erected in 1555, by 
Nicholas Brigh^am, a scholar of Oxford, and himself a poet. 

* The word honorary as here used, is meant to imply that the person 
to whom the monument is erected is buried elsewhere. 


106 XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEY—POETS’ CORNER. 


Monument to Edmund Spenser, author of the Faerie Queene; 
erected at the expense of ‘Anne Pembroke, Dorset, and 
Montgomery,’ and renewed in 1778 at the instigation of 
Mason, the poet;—Spenser died in King-street, Westminster, 
“ from lack of bread,” and was buried here at the expense 
of Queen Elizabeth’s Eaii of Essex. Honorary monument 
to Shakspeare; erected in the reign of George II., fx’om the 
designs of Kent;—when Pope was asked for an inscription, 
he wrote 

“ Thus Britons love me, and preserve my fame, 

Free from a Barber’s or a Benson’s name.” 

We shall see the sting of this presently : Shakspeare stands 
like a sentimental dand 3 ^ Monument to Michael Drayton, 
erected by the same ‘Anne Pembroke, Dorset, and Mont¬ 
gomery; ’ the epitaph in verse by Ben Jonson, and veiy fine. 
Tablet to Ben Jonson, erected in the reign of George II., 
a century after the ixoet’s death. Honorary bust of Milton, 
erected in 1737, at the expense of Auditor Benson: “In 
the inscription,” says Dr. Johnson, “Mr. Benson has be¬ 
stowed more words upon himself than upon Milton; ” so 
in the Dunciad— 

“ On poets’ tombs see Benson’s titles writ.” 

Honoraiy monument to Butler, author of Hudibriis, erected 
in 1721, by John Barber, a printer, and Lord Mayor of 
London. Grave of Sir William Davenant, with the short 
inscription, “ 0 I'are Sir WilHam Davenant.” (May, the poet, 
and historian of the Long Parliament, was originally buried 
in this grave.) Monument to Cowley, erected at the expense 
of the second and last Villiers, Duke of Buckingham; the 
epitaph by Sprat. Bust of Dryden, by Schumakers, erected 
at the expense of Shefi&eld, Duke of Buckingham. 

“ Tins Sheffield raised: tbe sacred dust below 
Was Uryden once: tbe rest Avbo does not know.”— Pope. 

Honorary monuments to Shadwell, the antagonist of Dryden, 
erected by his son, and to John Philips, author of The 
Splendid Shilhng (d. 1708). 

“When tbe inscription for tbe monument of Pbilips, in w'bicb be was 
said to be uni Miltono seeundus, was exhibited to Dr. Sprat, then Dean of 
Westminster, be refused to admit it; tbe name of Milton was in bis 
opinion too detestable to be read on tbe wall of a building dedicated to 
devotion. Atterbury, who succeeded liim, being author of tbe inscription, 
permitted its reception. ‘And^sueb has been the change of public 


XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEY—BOETS’ CORNER. 107 

opinion,’ said Dr, Gregory, from whom I heard this account, ‘ that I have 
seen erected in the church a bust of that man whose name I once knew 
considered as a pollution of its walls.’ ”— Dr. Johnson. 

Slonument of Matthew Prior, erected by himself, as the last 
pibce of human vanity. 

“As doctors give physic by way of prevention. 

Mat, alive and in health, of his tombstone took care 
For delays are unsafe, and his pious intention 
May haply be never fulfill’d by his heir. 

“ Then take Mat’s word for it, the sculptor is paid: 

That the figure is fine, pray believe your own eye; 

Yet credit but lightly what more may be said. 

For we flatter ourselves and teach marble to lie.”— Prior. 

The bust, by A. Coysevox, was a present to Prior from 
Louis XIV., and the epitaph, written by Dr. Friend, famous 
for long epitaphs:— 

“ Friend, for your epitaphs I griev’d 
Where still so much is said; 

One half will never be believ’d. 

The other never read.”—Pope. 

Monument to Nicholas Rowe, author of the tragedy of Jane 
Shore, erected by his widow; epitaph by Pope. Mopument to 
John Gray, author of The Beggars’ Opera; the short and 
irreverent epitaph, Life is a jest, dr., is his own composition ; 
the verses beneath it are by Pope. Statue of Addison, by 
Sir R, Westmacott, erected 1809. Honorary monument to 
Thomson, author of The Seasons, erected 1762, from the 
proceeds of a subscription edition of his works. Honorary 
tablet to Oliver Goldsmith, by Nollekens; the Latin inscrip¬ 
tion by Dr. Johnson, who, in reply to a request that he would 
celebrate the fame of an author in the language in which he 
wrote, observed, that he never would consent to disgrace the 
walls of Westminster Abbey with an English inscription. 
Honorary monument to Gray, author of An Elegy in a 
Country Churchyard (the verse by Mason, the monument by 
Bacon, R. A.). Honorary monuments to Mason, the biographer 
of Gray, to Anstey, author of the Bath Guide. Inscribed 
gravestone over Richard Brinsley Sheridan. Bust of Robert 
Southey, by H. Weekes. Thomas Campbell, author of the 
Pleasures of Hope, a statue by W. C. Marshall, R.A. Hei'e 
also are interi’ed William Makepeace Thackeray; Charles 
Dickens, d. June, 1870; George Grote, Historian of Greece, 
d. June, 1871 • 

In that part of the South Transept not included in Poets’ 
Corner, Observe —Monument to Isaac Casaubon (1614), editor 
of Persius and Polybius. Monument to Camden, the great 


108 XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEY—S. TRANSEPT. 


English antiquary (d. 1623); the bust received the injury, 
which it still exhibits, when the hearse and effigy of Essex, 
the Parliamentary general, were destroyed in 1646, by some 
of the Cavalier party, who Im’ked at night in the Abbey to 
be revenged on the dead. White gravestone, in the centre 
of transept, over the body of Old Pai’r, who died in 1635, at 
the gi’eat age of 152, having lived in the reigns often princes, 
viz,, Edward IV., Edward V., Richai’d III., Henry VII., 
Henry VIII., Edward VI., Mary, Elizabeth, James I., and 
Charles I. Gravestone over the body of Thomas Chiffinch, 
closet-keeper to Charles II. (d. 1666).j Monument to M. St. 
Evremont, a French epicurean wit, who fled to England to 
escape a government arrest in his own country (d. 1703). 
Bust of Dr. Isaac Barrow, the divine (d. 1677). Grave¬ 
stone over the body of the second wife of Sir Richard Steele, 
the “ Prue ” of his correspondence. Monument, by Roubiliac, 
to John, Duke of Argyll and Greenwich (d. 1743): the figure 
of Eloquence, with her supplicating hand and earnest brow, is 
very masterly; Canova was struck with its beauty; he said, 
‘‘ That is one of the noblest statues I have seen in England.” 
Monument by Roubiliac (his last work) to Handel, the great 
musician, a native of Halle, in Lower Saxony, and long a resident 
in England (d. 1759). Honoraiy monument to Barton Booth, 
the original Cato in Addison’s play. Honorary monument 
to Mrs. Pritchard, the actress, famous in the chai’acters of 
Lady Macbeth, Zara, and Mrs. Oakley (d. 1768). Inscribed 
gravestones over the bodies of David Ganick and Samuel 
Johnson. Monument to David Garrick, by H. Webber, 
erected at the expense of Albany Wallis, the executor of 
Garrick. 

“ Taking a turn, the other day in the Ahhey, I was struck with the 
affected attitude of a figure which I do not remember to have seen 
before, and which, upon examination, proved to be a whole-length of the 
celebrated Mr. Garrick. Though I would not go so far with some good 
Catholics abroad as to shut players altogether out of consecrated ground, 
yet I own I was not a little scandalised at the introduction of theatrical 
airs and gestures into a place set apart to remind us of the saddest 
realities. Going nearer, I found inscribed under this harlequin figure a 
farrago of false thoughts and nonsense .”—Charles Lamb. 

Inscribed gravestones over the remains of James Macplierson, 
translator of Ossian; and of William Gifford, editor of Ben 
Jonson and the Quarterly Review. The painted glass in the 
Abbey will be found to deserve a cursory inspection; the 
rich rose-window in the North Transept is old; the rose- 
window in the South Transept the work (1847) of Messrs. 
Thomas Ward and J. H, Nixon. The wax-work exhibition 


XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEY—CLOISTERS. 


109 


was discontinued in 1839. It originated in the old custom 
of making a lively effigy in wax of every great person de¬ 
ceased—to be carried in the funeral procession, and of leaving 
the effigy over the grave as a kind of temporary monument. 

On leaving the interior of the Abbey, you may visit the 
Cloisters, on the south side, walking through St. Marga¬ 
ret’s churchyai’d, and entering Dean’s-yard, by the gateway 
opposite Scott’s Crimean monument. On the left of the 
Cloister doorway you pass the Jerusalem Chamber, in which 
the Upper House of Convocation meets, and where King 
Henry IV. died. In it is an original whole leugth of 
Richard II. This chamber is not open to the public. 

“ King Henry. Doth any name particular belong 
Unto the lodging where I first did swoon? 

“ Warwick. ’Tis called Jerusalem, my noble lord. 

“ King Henry. Laud be to God !—even there my life must end. 

It hath been prophesied to me many years, 

I should not die but in Jenisalem; 

"Which vainly I supposed the Holy Land:— 

But bear me to that chamber; there I ’ll lie 
In that Jerusalem shall Harry die.” 

Shakspeare, Second Part of King Henry IV. 

Observe. —In S. cloister effigies of several of the early abbots. 
In E. cloister, monument to Sir Edmundsbury Godfrey, 
murdered in the reign of Charles 11.; tablet to the mother 
of Addison, the poet; monument to Lieut. - General 
Withers, with epitaph by Pope. In W. cloister, monu¬ 
ment to George Vertue, the antiquary and engraver: 
monument, by T. Banks, R.A., to Woollett, the engraver; 
tablet to Dr. Buchan, author of the work on Domestic Medi¬ 
cine (d. 1805). In the E. ambulatory, ‘‘under a blue marble 
stone, against the first pillar,” Aphra Behn was buried, April 
20th, 1689 : and under stones no longer carrying inscriptions, 
are buried Henry Lawes, “one who called Milton friend;” 
Betterton, the actor; Tom Brown, the wit; Mrs. Bracegirdle, 
the beautiful actress; and Samuel Foote, the dramatic writer 
and comedian. At the S.E. corner of the cloister are remains 
of Edward the Confessor’s buildings, including the Chapel of 
the Fix, where the instruments connected with the coinage 
of the realm, and the king’s treasm-e itself, were kept in 
ancient times. 

A small wooden door, in the S. cloister, leads to Ash- 
burnham House, one of Inigo Jones’s best remaining works. 
The staircase is the perfection of beautiful design in clas¬ 
sic style, and the richly-ornamented doorway in the K 
cloister leads to 

The Chapter-house (an elegant octagon, supported by mas- 


110 XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEY—CHAPTER HOUSE. 

sive buttresses, over a Noi-iuan crypt), a fine example of 
English-gothic; built in 1250 by Henry HI. It is historically 
interesting as “ the first home of the House of Commons,” 
to use the words of Dean Stanley. It was made over by the 
Convent of Westminster to their use in the reign of Ed¬ 
ward I., and they sat in it for 300 years, until, in that of 
Edward VI., it was made a repository for public records, 
not removed till 1860. It has been judiciously restored, 
from a design prepared by Mr, G. G. Scott, to its primitive 
elegance and splendour. In 1866, parliament made a gi’ant 
of 7000Z. for this purpose ; but the work had cost 27,000^. in 
1869. Its roof is supported by an elegant central piei', which 
served as a whipping post when any of the monks transgressed. 
The entrance is in Poets’ Corner. Observe. —In 5 compart¬ 
ments on the E. wall, and not unlike an altar-piece, “ Clirist 
surrounded by the Chilstian Vii’tues,” a mural decoration of 
the 14th century. There are later paintings of the Revelation, 
St. John the Evangelist, but poor. The floor of heraldic tiles is 
fine. The roof stood till 1740; Wren, it is said, refused to 
remove it. 

The following eminent persons are buried in Westminster 
Abbey. (Those Avithout monuments are in italics.) Kings 
AND Queens. — King Sebert; Edwai’d the Confessor; 
Henry III.; Edward I. and Queen Eleanor; Edward III. and 
Queen Philippa; Richard II. and his Queen; Henry V.; 
Edward V.; Henry YII. and his Queen; Anne of Cloves, 
Queen of Henry VIII.; Edward VI.; Mary I.; Mary, 
Queen of Scots; Queen Elizabeth; James I. and his Queen; 
Queen of Bohemia, daughter of James I. and mother of Prince 
Rupert; Charles II.; William III. and Queen Mary; Queen 
Anne; George II. and Queen Caroline. Statesmen. — Lord 
Chancellor Clarendon; Savile, Lord Halifax; Sir William 
Temple; Craggs; Pulteney, Earl of Bath; the great Lord 
Chatham; Pitt; Fox, Canning, and Castlereagh. Soldiers. 
—Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke; Sir Francis Vere ; 
Pnnce Rwpert; Monk, Duke of Albemarle; William, Duke 
of Cnmberland, the hero of Culloden; Marshal Wade. Sea¬ 
men.— Admiral Dean; Sir W. Spragg; Montague, Earl of 
Sandwich; Sir Cloudesley Shovel, Poets.— Chaijcer, Spen¬ 
ser, Beaumont, Ben Jonson, Michael Drayton, Sir Robert 
Ayton, Sir W. Davenant, Cowley, Denham, Roscommon, 
Dryden, Prior, Congreve, Addison, Rowe, Gay, Macpher- 
Eon, who gave “Ossian” to the public, R. B. Sheridan, and 
Thomas Campbell. Actors. — Betterton, Mrs. Oldfield, Mrs. 
Bracegirdle, Mrs. Cibber, the second Mrs. Barry, Henderson, 
and David Garrick. Musicians, — Henry Lawes, Purcell, Dr. 


XIV.—ST. Paul’s cathedral. 


Ill 


Blow, Handel. Divines.— Dr. Barrow, Dr. South. Antiqua¬ 
ries. —Camden, Spehnan, Archbishop Usher. Other Eminent 
Persons. — Mountjoy^ Earl of Devonshire, of the time of 
Queen Elizabeth; the unfortunate Arabella Stuart; the 
mother of Henry VII.; the mother of Lady Jane Grey; 
the mother of Lord Darnley; Anne Hyde, Duchess of York, 
the mother of Queen Mary and Queen Anne; the wife of 
the Protector Somerset; the wife of the great Lord Burgh- 
ley ; the wife of Sir Robert Cecil; the Duke and Duchess 
of Newcastle (the poet and poetess); Villiers, first Duke 
of Buckingham, and his two sons, the profligate second 
duke, and Francis, killed? when a boy in the Civil AVars; 
the Duchess of Richmond (La Belle Stuart) ; the second Duke 
of Ormond, and A tterbury, Bishop of Rochester, both of whom 
died in banishment; Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham; Hak¬ 
luyt, who collected the early voyages which bear his name ; 
Sir Isaac Newton; Dr. Busby, the schoolmaster; Dr. John¬ 
son, the moralist and lexicographer; Tom Killigrew and 
M. St. Evi’emont, the English and French epicurean Avits; 
A ubrey de Vei'e, the twentieth and last Earl of Oxford of 
the house of Vere; and old Parr, who died (1635) at the 
great age of 152. ‘'A Peerage or Westminster Abbey” 

Avas one of Nelson’s rcAvards; and AAffien Ave reflect on the 
many eminent persons buried within its Avails, it is indeed 
an honour. There is, hoAvever, some truth in the dying 
observation of Sir Godfrey Kneller—“By God, I Avill not 
be buried in Westminster ! They do bury fools there.” 

ST. PAUL’S, THE CATHEDRAL church of the See of 
Loudon, the most marked feature in the architecture of 
London, and the noblest building in Great Britain in the 
Classic style, stands on the site of a Gothic church destroyed in 
the Fire of London. The principal approach to it is by 
Ludgate-hill, but it is too closely hemmed in by houses to 
be seen to much advantage. The best general vieAV of it is 
from the Thames, oFBlackfriars Bridge. There the graceful 
outline of its faultless dome may be thoroughly appreciated. 
Entrance at the N. door. Divine Seiwice is performed 
daily at 8 in the moiming in the chapel;—at ^ before 10, 
and in the afternoon at past 3 or 4 in the choir. Since 
Evening Service is performed on Sunday, at 7 p. m., 
under the dome, an area affording seats for 3000 persons, Avhilo 
by the removal of the organ from the opening of the choir, 
the view extends from the AA'est door to the altar. The 
doors arc opened | of an liour before the beginning of each 
service. 


112 


XIV.—ST. Paul’s cathedral. 


Visitors are admitted without fee to inspect the interior 
on week days, except during the time of Divine Service. 


CHARGES FOB INSPECTING PARTS OF THE CATHEDRAL 


NOT OPEN TO THE PUBLIC. 

Whispering, Stone, and Golden Galleries 

Ball. 

Library, Great Bell, and Geometrical Staircase . . 

Clock. 

Crypt—Wellington’s and Nelson’s Monument 


5 . d. 
0 6 
1 6 
0 6 
0 2 
0 6 


3 2 


General History .—The first stone was laid June 21st, 1675. 
Divine service was performed for the first time Dec. 2nd, 
1697, on the day of thanksgiving for the peace of Ryswick, 

and the last stone laid-1710, 35 yeara after the first. 

It deserves to be mentioned that the whole Cathedral was 
begun and completed under one architect. Sir Christopher 
Wren ; one master mason, Thomas Strong; and one bishop, 
Dr, Henry Compton. The whole cost, 747,954^. 2s. 9c^., was 
paid for by a tax on coals brought into the port of London, 
and the Cathedral, it is said, deserves to wear, as it does, a 
smoky coat in consequence, Fxtenof '.—The ground-plan is 
that of a Latin cross, with lateral projections at the W. 
end of the nave, giving width and importance to the W. 
front. Length from E. to W., 550 feet; breadth of the body 
of the church, 100 feet; campanile towers at the W. end, 
each 222 feet in height; and the height of the whole struc¬ 
ture, from the pavement to the top of the cross, 370 feet. 
Immense as the building looks and is, it could actually 
stand within St. Peter’s at Rome. The outer dome is of 
wood, covered with lead, and does not support the lantern 
on the top, which rests on a cone of brick raised between 
the inner cupola and outer dome. The course of balustrade 
at the top was forced on Wren by the commissioners for 
the building. “ I never designed a balustrade,” he says ; 

ladies think nothing well without an edging.” The sculp¬ 
ture on the pediment (the Convex'sion of St. Paul), the 
statues on the entablature (St, Paul, with St, Peter and St. 
James on either side), and the statue of Queen Anne (Cost 
£1150) in front of the building, with the four figures at the 
angles, are all by F. Bird. The Phoenix over the S. door was 
the work of Cibber. The iron railing was cast at Lamberhurst, 
in Kent, at a cost of 11,202?. Os. 6o?., and encloses upwards of 
two acres of ground. Observe .—The double portico at the 
W. end,; the beautiful semicircular porticos, N. and S.; the 
use of two orders of architecture (Composite and Corinthian); 





XIV.—ST. Paul’s cathedpvAl. 113 

and the general breadth and harmony of the ■whole 
building. 

Interior .—The cupola, -with the paintings upon it, is of 
brick, 108 feet in diameter, with stone bandings at every rise 
of 5 feet, and a girdle of Portland stone at the base, con¬ 
taining a double chain of iron strongly linked together at 
every 10 feet, and weighing 95 cwt. 3 qr, 23 lb. The great 
defect of the interior is its nakedness, darkness, and want 
of coloured ornament. Wren’s first design of St. Paul’s 
was planned essentially for the Protestant worship and 
ser-vdce, and consisted of a large central dome, surrounded 
by eight minor cupolas, prolonged to the W. by another 
cupola, and faced with a grand portico. This was rejected 
through the influence of the Duke of York (afterwards 
James II.), who insisted on having a church -with the usual 
long nave and side aisles, adapted to the popish service. 
Sir Christopher shed tears in speaking of the change; but 
it was all in vain. The 8 paintings in the dome (by Sir 
James Thornhill), represent the principal events in the life 
of St. Paul. The wood carvings in the choir are by Grinling 
Gibbons. The late eminent Dean Milman, who had greatly 
at heart the glory of the cathedral, set on foot various im¬ 
provements, which have partly been carried out. To him 
are due the thi’owing open of the space under the dome for 
. public worship, the partial gilding of the choir, the setting up 
of painted glass windows, gifts of companies or private per¬ 
sons, at the W. end, chiefly executed at Munich. It is a stand¬ 
ing shame and disgrace to the merchants, bankers, trades¬ 
men, and citizens of London, the richest city in the world, 
that they should so long have allowed the interior to remain 
naked, black, and unfinished. In 1870 an effort was begun to 
raise 250,000^. to complete it according to Wren’s wishes. 
The inscription to Wren, si monumentum quairis, circum- 
SPICE, set up by Mjdne, engineer of old Blackfriars Bridge, 
now appears on the inner porch of the N. transept. Wren 
received a small salary of 200^. a year, as architect, while 
St. Paul’s was in progress; he was dismissed from his office 
when his great work was barely finished.* Addison, in 
Spectator No. 50, makes the Indian King suppose that St. 
Paul’s was carved out of a rock. 

The Monuments. Few of them, unfortunately, merit atten¬ 
tion as fine works of art, but all are interesting from the illus¬ 
trious persons they are designed to commemorate. Among 
the works of art. Observe —Statue of John Howard, the 

* See Dean Milman's Annals of St. PauVs for the best account of this 
Cathedral. 


114 


XIV.—ST. Paul’s cathedral. 


pliilantliropist, by Bacon, KA. (cost 1300 guineas, and was 
the first njonument erected in St. Paul’s); of Dr. Johnson, 
by Bacon, R.A.; of Sir Joshua Reynolds, by Flaxman, R.A. ; 
kneeling figure of Bishop Heber, by Chantrey, R.A. Among 
the monuments interesting from the persons they comme¬ 
morate— Observe —Those to ISTelson, by Flaxman, R.A. (the 
loss of the right arm concealed by the union Jack);—to 
Lord Cornwallis, by Rossi, R.A. (supported by Indian 
river gods);—to Sir Ralph Abercrombie, by Sir R. West- 
macott, R.A.—to Sir John Moore, who fell at Corunna 
(Marshal Soult stood before it and wept); statue of Lord 
Heathfield, the gallant defender of Gibraltar; monuments 
to Howe and Rodney, two of our great naval heroes;—to 
Nelson’s favourite, the brave and pious Lord Collingwood; 
statue of Earl St. Vincent, the hero of the battle off Cape 
St. Vincent; monuments to Picton and Ponsonby, who fell 
at Waterloo; to Sir Charles Napier, conqueror at Meea- 
uee; statues of Sir William Jones, the Oriental scholar. Sir 
Astley Cooper, the surgeon, Dr. Babington, the physician, 
&c. In the Cryjit, — Observe .—Grave of Sir Christopher Wren 
(d. 1723, aged 91).—Grave of Lord Nelson (d. 1805), beneath 
the centre of the dome. The sarcophagus, wdiich contains 
Nelson’s coffin, was made at the expense of Cardinal Wolsey, 
for the burial of Henry VIII. in the tomb-house at Windsor ; 
and the coffin, w^hich contains the body (made of part of the 
mainmast of the ship L’Orient), w^as a present to Nelson after 
the battle of the Nile, from his friend Ben Hallowell, captain 
of the Swiftsure. “ I send it,” says Hallowell, “ that when 
you are tired of this life you may be buried in one of your 
own trophies.” Nelson appreciated the present, and for some 
time had it placed upright, Avith the lid on, against the bulk¬ 
head of his cabin, behind the chair on which he sat at 
dinner.—Grave of Lord Collingwood (d. 1810), comm.ander 
of the larboard division at the battle of Trafalgai’.—Grave of 
the great Duke of Wellington, d. 1852. He lies in a 
eai’cophagus of Cornish porphyry of excellent form, in the E. 
Crypt, adjoining Nelson. His Monument, provided by public 
subscription, a recumbent effigy under a marble canopy, de¬ 
signed and executed by — Stephens,will occupy the W. chapel 
of the S. aisle. Near to his old leader lies Sir Thomas 
Picton, killed at Waterloo, interred here 1859.—Graves of the 
folloAving celebrated English painters :—Sir Joshua Reynolds 
(d. 1792); Sir Thomas Law^rence (d. 1830); James Barry 
(d. 1806); John Opie (d. 1807); Benjamin West (d. 1820); 
Henry Fuseli (d. 1825); J. M. W. Turner (d. 1851).— 
Graves of eminent engineers:—Robert Mylnc, who built 



Statue of Queen Aune> 

GROUND PLAN OP ST. PAUL’S CATHEDRAL. 

•r O 

























116 


XIV.—ST. Paul’s cathedral. 


old Blackfriars Bridge (d. 1811); Jobn Bennie, wlio built 
Waterloo Bridge (d. 1821). Monuments from Old St. Paul's 
preserved in the crypt of the present building.—Dean 
Colet, founder of St. Paul’s School ; Sir Nicholas Bacon, 
father of the great Lord Bacon; Sir Christopher Hatton, 
Queen Elizabeth’s Lord Chancellor; Dr, Donne, the poet 
and dean, in his shroud, by Nicholas Stone, described by 
Izaak Walton in his Life of Donne. Of the tombs of Sir 
Philip Sydney, Sir Francis Walsingham, Sir A. Vandyk, and 
John of Gaunt, no trace remains, 

Ascc7it. —The ascent to the ball, entrance in S.W. angle 
under dome, is by 616 steps, of which 260 easy and well- 
lighted steps lead to The Whispenng Gallery, so called, because 
the slightest whisper is transmitted from one side of tlie 
gallery to the other with great rapidity and distinctness. 
ClocTc Room. —In the S.W. tower is the clock, and the great 
bell on which it strikes. The length of the minute-hand of 
the clock is 8 feet, and its weight 75 lb.; the length of the 
hour-hand is 5 feet 5 inches, and its weight 44 lb. The 
diameter of the bell is about 10 feet, and its weight is 11,474 
lb., the hammer weighing 145 lb., and the clapper 180 lb. 
It is inscribed, “Richard Phelps made me, 1716,” and is 
never used except for striking the hour, and for tolling at 
the deaths and funei’als of any of the Royal Family, the 
Bishops of London, the Deans of St. Paul’s, and the Lord 
Mayor, should he die in his mayoralty. The Stone Gallery is 
an outer gallery, and affords a fine view of London on a 
clear day. The Outer Golden Gallery is at the apex of the 
dome. Here you may have a still more extensive view of 
London if you will ascend early in the morning, and on a 
clear day. The Ball and Cross stand on the top of the 
concealed brick cone which supports the outer dome (see 
above). The ball is in diameter 6 feet 2 inches, and will 
hold three or four persons. The weight of the ball is 
stated to be 5600 lb,, and that of the cross (to w'hich there 
is no entrance) 3360 lb. The last p)ublic procession to 
St. Paul’s (the funeral of the Duke of Wellington in 1852 
excepted) was on Thursday, July 7th, 1814, when the 
Duke of Wellington carried the sword of state Ceforo 
the Prince Regent, on the day of general thanksgiving for 
the peace. 

Haydn said that the most powerful effect he ever felt from 
music was from the singing of the charity children in St. 
Paul's. Endeavour to attend at this festival, held on the 
first Thursday in June, when 5000 charity children of the 
metropolis arc collected under the Dome. 

St. Paul's Church-yard is an irregubr circle of hoiises en- 


XIV.—ST. BARTHOLOMEW THE GREAT—ST. SAVIOUR. 117 

closing St. Paul’s Cathedral and burial-ground. The statue 
of Queen Anne, before the W. front of the church, was 
the work of Francis Bird, a poor sculptor. Mr. Newbery’s 
shop at the corner of St. Paul’s Church-yard is occupied by 
Messrs. Griffith and Farran, who deal, like their predecessor, 
in books for children. 

St. BARTHOLOMEW the GREAT, West Smithpield, 
is the choir and transept of the church of the Priory of 
St. Bartholomew, founded in the reign of Henry 1. (circ. 
1102), by Rahere, companion of Hereward, “the last of the 
Saxons in the defence of the Isle of Ely against William the 
Conqueror, and the King’s minstrel.” This unquestionably 
is the oldest and one of the most interesting of the London 
churches. It is chiefly good Norman work with Perp. in¬ 
sertions and additions, but its detached entrance gate from 
Smithfield is an excellent specimen of Early English with the 
toothed ornament in its mouldings. The tower is of brick, 
1628, erected over the only bay of the nave remaining. 
This church was restored 1865-67; 12 feet of earth was dug 
out from within its walls. The chief feature is the Norman 
E. apse, four stilted round arches, resting on massive columns, 
and three larger columns and wider arches forming the choir. 
Above the altar protrudes a box-like, square construction, 
being the end of a neighbouring workshop — “elbowing God’s 
altar,” which the limited funds for the restoration do not 
avail to purchase and remove. Parts are of the Perp. period, 
and the rebus of Prior Bolton, who died in 1532 (a holt 
through a tun), fixes the date when the alterations were 
made. The roof is of timber. The clerestory is Early 
English. On the N. side of the altar is the elegant cano¬ 
pied tomb, -with effigy, of Rahere, the first Prior, much 
later than his decease. Over against it is the spacious 
monument to Sir Walter Mildmay, founder of Emmanuel 
College, Cambiidge (d. 1589). The bust {near Mildmay’s 
monument) of James Rivers (d. 1641), is probably the work 
of Hubei't Le Soeur, who lived in Bartholomew-close, hard 
by. The parish register records the baptism (Nov. 28th, 
1697) of William Hogarth, the painter. In the open space, just 
opposite St. Bartholomew’s Gate, stood the stake at which 
the victims of Popish intolerance, during the reign of Bloody 
Queen Mary, were burned alive. See Smithfield. 

St. saviour, Southwark, was the church of the Priory 
of St. Mary Overy, and was first erected into a parish church 
by Henry VIII. in 1540. After Westminster Abbey, St. 
Saviour’s, Southwark, contains the finest specimens of Early 


118 XIV.—ST. SAVIOUR—THE TEMPLE CHURCH. 


English in London. Nothing, however, remains of the old 
church but the choir and the Lady chapel. The nave was 
taken down 1840, to the disgrace of the parish, without 
due cause, and the present unsightly structure biiilt. The 
altar-screen in the choir (much like that at Winchester) 
was erected at the expense of Fox, Bishop of Winchester 
(d. 1528), and bears his device, the pelican. The choir was 
restored in 1822, and the Lady chapel in 1832. In the reign 
of Mary I. the Lady chapel of St. Saviour’s was used, during 
the Marian persecution, by Bishop Gardiner, (d. 1555), as a 
court for the trial of heretics. Monuments. —Effigy of knight 
cross-legged, in north aisle of choir. To John GoAver, the 
poet (d. 1402); a Perp. monument, oi’iginally erected on the 
N.side of the church, in the chapel of St. John, where Gower 
founded a chautiy. 

He [Gower] lieth under a tomb of stone, with his image also of stone 
over him : the hair of his head, auburn, long to his shoulders but curling 
up, and a small forked beard; on his head a chaplet like a coronet of 
four roses; a habit of purple, damasked down to his feet; a collar of 
esses gold about his neck; under his head the likeness of three books 
which he compiled.”— Stovj, p. 152. 

Lancelot AndreAvs, Bishop of Winchester (d. 1626); a 
black and Avhite marble monument in the Lady chapel, 
Avith his effigy at full-length. John Treheaiiie, gentle¬ 
man porter to James I.; half-length of himself and Avife 
(upright). John Bingham, saddler to Queen Elizabeth and 
Janies I. (d. 1625). Alderman Humble. Lockyer, the 
famous empiric in Charles II.’s reign (d. 1672); a rueful 
full-length figure in N. transept. Eminent Persons buried 
in, and graves unmarked.—Sir Edward Dyer, Sir Philip 
Sydney’s friend; he lived and died (1607) in Winchester 
House,adjoining. Edmund Shakspeare, “player” (the poet’s 
youngest brother), buried in the church, 1607. LaAvrenco 
Fletchei’, one of the leading shareholders in the Globe and 
Blackfriars Theatres, and Shakspeare’s “ felloAv; ” buried in 
the church, 1608. Philip HensloAve, the manager, so AA^ell 
knoAvn by his curious Account Book or Diary; buried in the 
chancel, 1615-16. John Fletcher (Beaumont’s associate), 
buried in the church, 1625. Philip Massinger (the dralfiatic 
poet), buried in the churchyard, March 18th, 1638-9. 

The TEMPLE CHURCH, a little south of Temple Bar, 
was the church of the Knights Templar, and is divided into 
tAVO parts, the Round Church and the Choir. The Round 
Church (transition Norman Avork) Avas built in the year 1185, 
as an inscription in Saxon character, fomiei*ly on the stone- 


XIV.—THE TEMPLE CHURCH. 


110 


work over the little door next the cloister, recorded, and 
dedicated by Heraclius, Patriarch of Jerusalem; the Choir 
(pure Early English) was finished in 1240. The restorations 
and alterations, made 1839-42, at a cost of 70,000^., amount¬ 
ing nearly to the re-construction of the Choir, are in correct 
12th and 13th cent^ taste. The monuments to several dis¬ 
tinguished men, architecturally out of place, were removed 
from the arcades in which they were first erected, and are 
now placed in the Trifoiium. Off the cork-screw stairs 
leading to it is a celL for the bell-ringer, with a squint 
(lychnoscope) bearing upon the high altar. Observe. —En¬ 
trance doorway (very fine);—two groups of monumental 
effigies, on the pavement in Pound Church, of Knights 
Templar, cross-legged (names unknown, at least very un¬ 
certain) ; the figure between the two columns on the S.E. 
having a foliage-ornament about the head, and the feet 
resting upon a lion, represents, it is said, William Marshall, 
Earl of Pembroke (d. 1119), Earl Marshal and Protector of 
England during the minority of Henry III. On the left of 
the altar is the monument of white marble, to the learned 
Selden (d. 1654 ; he is buried beneath); and in the Trifo- 
rium the tombs of Plowden, the jurist; Martin, to whom 
Ben Jonson dedicates his Poetaster; Howell, the letter- 
writer (d. 1666). In the burial-ground east of the choir, 
lies 01iv_m’ (^dfimithj^ The place is undistinguished; but 
a tablet" erected in a recess on the north side of the Choir 
comrnemoi’ates the circumstance. The Round of this church 
was used as a place where lawyers received their clients, each 
occupying his particular post, like a merchant upon ’Change. 
The incumbent at the Temple is called Master of the Temple, 
and was once an office of greater dignity and reputation than 
it is now. The learned and judicious Hooker, author of the 
Ecclesiastical Polity, was for six years Master of the Temple 
—a place,” says Izaak Walton, “ which he accepted rather 
than desired.” Travers, a disciple of Cartwright, the Non¬ 
conformist, was then lecturer; and Hooker, it was said, 
preached Canterbury in the forenoon, and Travers Geneva in 
the afternoon. The Benchers were divided; and Travers, 
being first silenced by the Archbishop, Hooker resigned, and 
in his quiet parsonage of Boscombe renewed the contest in 
print, in his Ecclesiastical Polity. In the S. W. angle of the 
choir is a bust of Hooker by Mr. Gatley, erected 1851, at 
the expense of the benchers. In this church Archbishop 
Usher preached the funeral sermon of the learned Selden. 
The organ was made by Father Schmydt, or Smith, in 
honour .’)le competition witli a builder of the name of 


120 XIV.—ST. Helen’s, bishopsgate street. 

Harris. Blow and Purcell, then in their prime, performed 
on Father Smith’s organ on appointed days; and till Harris’s 
was heard, every one believed that Smith’s must be chosen. 
Harris employed Baptiste Draghi, oi’ganist to Queen Cathe¬ 
rine, “ to touch his organ,” which brought it into favour; 
and thus the two continued vieing with each other for near a 
twelvemonth. The decision at length was left to Judge 
Jefferies, who decided in favour of Father Smith. Smith 
excelled in the diapason, or foundation stops; Harris prin¬ 
cipally in the reed stops. The choral services on a Sun¬ 
day are ‘well performed, and well attended. The Bound 
of the church is open to all, but the Choir is reserved for 
the Benchers and students. Strangers are admitted by 
the introduction of a member of either Temple. The keys 
of the chui’ch are with the poi’ter, at the top of Inner 
Temple-lane. 

ST. HELEN’S, Bishopsgate Street, on the E. side of 
Bishopsgate-street Within, near its junction with Gracechurch- 
street, the church of the Priory of the Nuns of St. Helen’s, 
founded (cii’c. 1216) by ‘‘William, the son of William the 
Goldsmith,” otherwise William Basing, Dean of St. Paul’s. 
The interior is divided into two aisles, of nearly equal pro¬ 
portions, with a small transept abutting from the main 
building. There is little in the architecture to attract atten¬ 
tion, in general design or even in detail. The windows are 
irregular—the roof poor and heavy, but the monuments are 
old, numerous, and interesting. Observe. —Sir John Crosby, 
Alderman (d. 1475), and Ann, his wife, the founder of 
Crosby Hall; an altar-tomb, with tw'o recumbent figures, the 
male figure with his alderman’s mantle over his plate armour. 
—Sir 'Thomas Gresham (d. 1579), the founder of the Eoyal 
Exchange; an altar-tomb, inscribed—“ Sir Thomas Gresham, 
Knight, buried Dec. 15th, 1579,” Stow tells us that it w^as 
Gresham’s intention to have built a new steeple^to the church 
“ in I’ecompense of ground filled up -with his monument.”— 
John Leventhorp (d. 1510), in armour; a brass.—Sir William 
Pickering, and his son (d. 1542, d. 1574); a recumbent figure 
of the father in armour, beneath an enriched marble canopy. 
—Sir Andrew Judd, Lord Mayor (d. 1558), founder of the 
Free Grammar School at Tunbridge ; with male and female 
figui’es kneeling at a desk.—Sir Julius Cocsar (d. 1636), Master 
of the Bolls, and Under-Chancellor of the Exchequer, in the 
reign of James I., of w’hom Lord Clarendon tells the amusing 
story, “ Bemember Csesar.” 

“ His epitaph is cut on a black slab, in front of a piece of parchment, 


XIV.—ST. GILES—ST. PANCRAS. 


. 121 


with a seal appendant, by which he gires his bond to Heaven to resign 
his life willingly whenever it should please God to call him. ‘ In cujus 
rei testimonium manum meam et sigillum apposui.’ ”— Pennant. 

This monument was the work of Nicholas Stone, and cost 
110^.—Sir John Spencer, Loi’d Mayor in 1594, from whom 
the Marquis of Northampton derives the Spencer portion of 
his name, Spencer-Compton.—Francis Bancroft, the founder 
of Bancroft’s Almshouses. 

“ He is embalmed in a chest made with a lid, having a pair of hinges 
without any fastening, and a piece of square glass on the lid just over 
his face. It is a very plain monument, almost square, and has a door 
for the sexton, on certain occasions, to go in and clear it from dust and 
cobwebs.”— Noorthouck's Hist, of Lond., Aio, 1773, p. 557. 

ST. GILES, Cripplegate, one of the oldest and most 
venerable churches in London, interesting as the burial 
place of Milton, who composed “ Paradise Lost ” in a house 
in Barbican, in this parish (pulled down 1864). It was 
built in 1545, and escaped the fire. The tower is furnished 
with a peal of fourteen bells, one of the finest and sweetest 
in London, upon which chimes play every three hours. It 
was restored in 1864 as a memorial to Milton, see the tombs 
of Milton, of Fox the Martyrologist, and of Speed, the 
Chronicler. Oliver Cromwell was married in St. Giles; 
and the register records the burial of Defoe in this neigh¬ 
bourhood. 

ST. PANCRAS- IN-THE- FIELDS (old church) near the 
Midland Railway Terminus, is an interesting little church 
enlarged by Mr. A. D. Gough. The burial-ground, of less 
than 4 acres, has been used as a place of sepulture for 
six centuries, and contains the remains of at least twenty 
generations. The monuments deserve examination. Ohsei've. 
—Against S. wall of chancel a tablet, surmounted by a 
palette and pencils, to Samuel Cooper, the eminent miniature 
painter to whom Cromwell sat so often (d. 1672): the arms are 
those of Sir Edw. Turner, Speaker of the H. of Commons in 
the reign of Charles II., at whose expense it is probable the 
monument was erected. In the churchyard, near the chiirch 
door, and on your right as you enter, is a headstone to 
William Woollett, the engraver (d. 1785), and his widow 
(d. 1819). At the further end of the churchyard, on the 
N. side, is an altar-tomb to William Godwin, author of Caleb 
Williams (d. 1836), and his two wives; Mary Wolstonecraft 
Godwin, author of A Vindication of the Rights of Woman, 
the mother of Mrs. Shelley (d. 1797), now removed to 


122 


XIV.—SAVOY CHURCH. 


Bournemouth churchyard; and Mary Jane (d. 1841). Xear 
the sexton’s house is a headstone to John Walker, author of 
the Pronouncing Dictionary of the English Language (d. 
1807). Here were buried, as the register records :—Jeremy 
Collier (d. 1726), the writer against the immorality of the 
stage in the time of Dryden.—Ned Ward (d. 1731), author 
of the London Spy.—Lewis Theobald (d. 1744), the hero of 
the early editions of the Dunciad, and the editor of Shak- 
speare. In this church (Feb. 13th, 1718-19), Jonathan Wild 
was married to his third wife. 

ST. MARY-LE-SAVOY lies between the River and the 
Strand, and was the chapel of the Hospital of St. John the 
Baptist A Perp. edifice, erected in the reign of Henry VII. 
on the site of the Palace of the Savoy, oi iginally built in 
1245 for Peter, Count of Savoy, uncle to Eleanor, Queen of 
Henry HI. It is the property of the Ci'own. as part of the 
Duchy of Lancaster (tliough now used as a District Church), 
and was restoi'ed by Queen Victoria, 1865, after a fire in 
1864, which destroyed the roof, and all but the walls. 
Observe —The new wood ceiling is a copy of the old; its 
138 compartments being filled with sacred devices, or arms 
of the Dukes of Lancaster. The E. end is ornamented 
with Gothic niches, and a painted window of the Crucifixion 
by Willemeiit, as a memoiial from the Queen of the Prince 
Consort. The font and cover were given as a memorial of 
Pet(-r de Wiut and W. Hilton, R.A., both buried in the 
churchyard, by the widow of the former. The pulpit was 
given by the family of Burgess, of the Strand. Here were 
before the fire a recumbent figure of the Countess Dow¬ 
ager of Nottingham (d. 1681). Brass, on floor of the 
chapel, marking the gvave of Gawain Douglas, Bishop of 
Dunkeld (d. 1522), the ti'anslator of Virgil. Tablet, erected 
by his widow, to Richard Lander, the African traveller (d. 
1834). Eminent Persons interred here without monuments .— 
George Wither, the poet (d. 1667), “between the E. door and 
S. end of the church.” Lewis de Duras, Earl of Feversham 
(d. 1709); he commanded King James II.’s troops at the 
battle of Sedgemoor. 

At the Restoration of Charles II. the meetings of the 
commissioners for the revision of the Liturgy took place in 
the Savoy, at the lodgings of Dr. Sheldon, master of the 
Savoy; 12 bishops appearing for the Established Church ; 
and Calaniy, Baxter, Reynolds, and 9 others, for the Presby¬ 
terians. This assembly is known in English history as 
“ The Savoy Conference.” Fuller, author of The Worthies, 


XIV.—ST. Paul’s, covent garden—bow church. 123 

was at that time lecturer at the Savoy, and Cowley, the poet, 
a candidate at Court for the office of master. 

ST. PAUL’S, CovENT Garden, on the W. side of the 
market, was built by Inigo Jones, circ. 1633, at the expense 
of the ground landlord, Francis, Eai’l of Bedford; repaired, 
in 1727, by the Eaid of Burlington ; totally destroyed by fire, 
Sept. 17th, 1795; and rebuilt (John Hardwick, architect) on 
the plan and in the proportions of the original building. 
The parish registers record the baptism of Lady Mary Wortley 
Montagu, and the burials of the following Eminent Persons .— 
The notorious Robert Carr, Earl of Somerset (d. 1645).— 
Samuel Butler (d. 1680), author of Hudibras. He died in 
Rose-street. 

“He [Butler] dyed of a consumption, Septeiub. 25 (Anno D'”* 1680) 
.“^nd buried 27, according to his owne appointment in the church-yard of 
Covent Garden; sc. in the north part next the churclx at the east end. 
His feet touch the wall. His grave, 2 yards distant from the pilaster of 
tlie dore (by his desire), 6 foot deepc. About 25 of his old acq^uaintance 
at his funerall: I myself being one.”— Aubrey’s Lives, ii. 263. 

Sir Peter Lely, the painter (d. 1680). His monument, with 
liis bust by Gibbons, and his epitaph by Flatman, shared the 
fate of the church when destroyed by fire in 1795.—Edward 
Kynaston (d. 1712), the celebrated actor of female parts at 
the Restoration; a complete female stage beauty. William 
Wycherley (d. 1715), the dramatist. He died in Bow-street. 
—Grinling Gibbons (d. 1721), the sculptor and carver in 
wood.—Susannah Centlivre (d. 1723), author of The Busy 
Body and The Wonder.—Dr. Arne, the composer of Rule 
Britannia (d. 1778).—Dr. John Armstrong, author of the Art 
of Pi-eserving Health, a poem (d. 1779).—Sir Robert Strange, 
the engraver (d. 1792).—Thomas Girtin, the fiither of the 
school of English water colours (d. 1802).—Charles Macklin, 
the actor (d. 1797), at the age of 107.—John Wolcot (Peter 
Pindar), d. 1819. In front of this church the hustings are 
raised for the general elections for Westminster. Here, 
before the Reform Bill, raged those fierce contests of many 
days’ duration, in which Fox, Sir Francis Burdett, and-othei s 
were popular candidates. 

ST. MARY-LE-BOW, in Cheapside, commonly called 
“Bow Church,” is one of AVreu’s masterpieces. “ No other 
modern steeple,” says Fergusson (Modern Architecture), 
can compare with this, either for beauty of outline or 
appropriate application of classical details.” Observe. — 
The fine old Norman crypt: AYren used the arches of 


124 


XIV.—BOW CHURCH—ST. BRIDE. 


the old church to support his own superstructure. It is 
now a vault, and concealed in parts by piles of coffins; the 
interior is poor. The Court of Arches (an Ecclesiastical 
Court so called) derives its name from the arched vault 
under Bow Church, or “ bows ” beneath it, in which the 
court was originally held. “ Bow-bells ” have long been and 
are still famous. 

“ In the year 1469 it was ordained by a Common Council that the Bow 
Bell should be nightly rung at nine of the clock. Shortly after, John 
Donne, mercer, by his testament dated 1472, gave to the parson and 
churchwardens two tenements in Hosier Lane to the maintenance of 
Bow Bell, the same to be rung as aforesaid, and other things to be 
observed as by the will appeareth. This Bell being usually rung some¬ 
what late, as seemed to the young men, prentices, and others in Cheap, 
they made and set up a rhyme against the clerk as followeth: 

‘ Clerk of the Bow Bell, with the yellow lockes. 

For thy late ringing thy head shall have knocks.’ 

Whereunto the Clerk replying wrote 

‘ Children of Cheape, hold you all still. 

For you shall have the Bow Bell rung at your will.” 

Stow, p. 96. 

People bom within the sound of Bow-bells are usually called 
Cockneys. Beaumout and Fletcher speak of “ Bow-bell 
suckers,” i.e., as Mr. Dyce properly explains it, "children 
born within the sound of Bow-bell.” The present set of 
bells, 10, were cast 1762. The smallest weighing 8 cwt. 3 qr. 
7 lb., and the largest 53 cwt. 22 lb. Pope has confirmed the 
reputation of these bells in a celebrated line 

" Far as loud Bow’s stupendous hells resound.” 

The tower is 235 ft. high, the dragon on the top is 8 ft. 
10 in. long. The balcony in the tower overlooking Cheap- 
side had its origin in the old seldam or shed in which our 
kings used to sit to see the jousts and ridings in Cheap- 
side. 

ST. BRIDE, or ST. BRIDGET, Fleet-street, one of Wren’s 
architectural glories, was completed in the year 1703, at the 
cost of 11,430Z, The steeple, much and deservedly admired, 
was, as left by Wren, 234 feet in height, but in 1764, when 
it was stmek with lightning, and otherwise seriously injured, 
it w'as reduced 8 feet. Wren took the idea of its construc¬ 
tion from the whorls of a particular species of univalve shell. 
The interior has many admirers—less airy perhaps than St. 
James’s, Piccadilly, but still extremely elegant. The stained 


XIV.—ST. MAGNUS, LONDON BIllDGE. 


125 


glass window (a copy from Rubens’s Descent from the Cross) 
was the work of Mr. Muss. In the old church were buried : 
—AVynkin de Worde, the printer.—Sir Richard Baker, author 
of the Chronicle (d. 1644-5, in the Fleet Prison).—Richard 
Lovelace, the poet (d. 1658). In the present church were 
buried:—Ogilby, the translator of Homer.—Sandford, author 
of the Genealogical History.—Richardson, author of Clarissa 
Harlowe, and a printer in Salisbury-squai’e (d. 1761); his 
grave (half hid by pew No. 8, on the S. side) is marked by a 
liat stone, about the middle of the centre aisle. 

ST. MICHAEL’S, Cornhill, one of the handsomer city 
churches since its restoration and decoration under Mr. 
G. G. Scott. Observe .—The noble tower, the work of 
Wren, and yet Gothic in style, the carved portal; the 
rich altar-piece of marble and granite, including figures 
of Moses and Aaron by Straiker (temp. Charles II.), sur¬ 
mounted by a wheel window,—filled, as well as 5 other 
windows, with modern painted glass (subjects, the history 
of our Lord).—The wood carvings of the pulpit. Royal pew, 
and bench ends, are by Rogers; the pelican carved by G. 
Gibbons. 

ST. STEPHEN, Walbrook, immediately behind the Man¬ 
sion House, is one of Wren’s most celebrated churches. The 
exterior is unpromising, but the interior is all elegance and 
even grandeur. The lights are admirably disposed through¬ 
out. The arrangement is peculiar; a circular dome on an 
octagonal base, resting on 8 pillars. The walls and columns 
are of stone, but the dome is formed of timber and lead. 
The east window, by Willement, was erected at the expense 
of the Grocers’ Company. Sir John Vanbrugh, the architect 
and wit (d. 1726), lies buried in the family vault of the 
Vanbmghs, in this church. 

ST. MAGNUS, London Bridge, is by Wren. The cupola 
and lantern are much admired. The foot-way under the 
steeple was made (circ. 1760) to widen the road to old London 
Bridge. Some difficulty was expected at the time, but Wren 
had foreseen the probability of a change, and the alteration 
Avas effected Avith ease and security. On the S. side of the 
communion-table is a tablet to the memoiy of Miles Coverdale, 
rector of St. Magnus and Bishop of Exeter, under Avhose 
direction, Oct. 4th, 1535, “the first complete printed English 
version of the Bible Avas published.” When the church of 
St. Bartholomew-by-the-Exchange was taken down, his remains 
Avere reverently taken care of and here interred. 


126 


XIV.—ST. James’s, Piccadilly. 

ST. JAMES’S, Piccadilly, Westminster. Was built 
(1682-84) by Sir Christopher Wren, and erected at the ex¬ 
pense of Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans, the patron of 
Cowley, and the husband, it is said, of Henrietta Maria, the 
widow of Charles 1. The exterior of the church is of red 
brick with stone quoius, and is mean and ugly in the extreme. 
The interior is a masterpiece, light, airy, elegant, and capacious 
—well worthy the study of an architect. It is Wren’s chef- 
d'oeuvre in this way—and especially adapteil to the Protestant 
Church service. 

I can hardly think it practicable to make a single room so capacious, 
with pews and galleries, as to hold above 2000 persons, and all to hear 
the service, and botli to hear distinctly and see the preacher. I en¬ 
deavoured to effect this in building the parish church of St. James, 
AVestminster, which I presume is the most capacious with these 
qualifications that hath yet been built; and yet at a solemn time when 
tlie church was much crowded I could not disceni from a gallery that 
2000 persons were present in this church I mention, though very broad, 
and the nave arched up. And yet, as there are no walls of a second 
order, nor lantern, nor buttresses, but the whole roof rests upon the 
pillars, as do also the galleries, I think it may be found beautiful and 
convenient, and as such the cheapest form of any I could invent .”—Sir 
Christopher Wren. 

The marble font, a very beautiful oue, is the work of Griuling 
Gibbous. The missing cover (represented in Vertue’s en¬ 
graving) was stolen, and, it is said, subsequently hung as .a 
kind of sign at a spirit-shop in the immediate neighboiu'hood 
of the church. The beautiful foliage over the altar is also 
from the hand of Gibbons. The organ, a very fine one, was 
made for James II., and designed for his popish chapel at 
Whitehall. His daughter. Queen Mary, gave it to the church. 
The painted window at the E. end of the chancel, by Wailcs 
of Newcastle, was inseided in 1846. 

Eminent Persom inten'ed in .—diaries Cotton, Izaak 
Walton’s associate in The Complete Angler.—Dr. Sydenham, 
the physician.—The elder and younger Vandervelde. On a 
grave-stone in the church is, or was, this inscription : “ ]SIr. 
William Vandervelde, senior, late painter of sea-fights to 
their Majesties King Charles II. and King Janies, dyed 1693.” 
—Tom d’Urfey, the dramatist (d. 1723). There is a tablet 
to his memory on the outer S. wall of the tower of the 
church.—Henry Sydney, Earl of Eomney, the handsome 
Sydney of De Grammont’s Memoirs (d. 1704). There is a 
monument to his memory in the chancel.—Dr. Arbuthnot 
(d. 1734-5), the friend of Pope, Swift, and Gay.—Mark 
Akenside, M.D., author of The Pleasures of Imagination.—Sir 
William Jones the Oriental Scholar.—Dodsley, the book- 


XIV.—ST. MARTIN-IN-THE-FIELDS. 


127 


seller, and William Yarrell the Naturalist.—James Gillray, the 
caricaturist: in the churchyard, beneath a flat stone on the 
W. side of the rectory.—Sir John Malcolm, the eminent 
soldier and diplomatist.—The register records the baptisms of 
the polite Earl of Chesterfield and the great Earl of Chatham. 
The portraits of the rectors in the vestry include those of 
Tenisonfand Wake, afterwards Archbishops of Canterbury, 
and of Samuel Clarke, author of The Attributes of the Deity. 

ST. MARY WOOLNOTH, Lombard Street, was designed 
b}’- Nicholas Hawksmoor (d. 1736), the “domestic clerk” 
and assistant of Sir Christopher Wren, and built in 1716, on 
the site of an old church of the same name, ‘Hhe reason 
of which name,” says Stow, “ I have not yet learnt.” This 
is the best of Hawksmoor’s churches, and has been much 
admii'ed. The extei'ior is bold, and at least original ; the 
interior effective and well-proportioned. Observe .—Tablet to 
the Rev. John Newton (Cowper’s friend), rector of this church 
for 28 years (d. 1807). It is thus inscribed :— 

“ John Newton, clerk, once an infidel and libertine, a servant of slaves 
in Africa, was, by the rich inei’cy of our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ, 
preserved, restored, pardoned, and appointed to preach the faith he had 
long laboured to destroy.” 

ST. MARTIN-in-the-FIELDS (now Trafalgar-square) was 
built by Gibbs, 1721-26, at a cost of 36,891Z. 10s. id., in¬ 
cluding 1500Z. for an organ. The portico is one of the finest 
pieces of architecture in London. The interior is so con¬ 
stricted that it is next to impossible to erect a monument. 
The steei)le is heavy, but well-proportioned; its position, 
however, is awkward, since it appears to weigh down the 
portico. In the vaults may be seen the old parish whipping¬ 
post, and the Tombs of Sir Theodore Mayerne (physician to 
James I. and Chaides I.), and of Secretary Coventry, from 
whom Coventry-street derives its name. St. Martin’s-in-the- 
Fields originally included the several parishes of St. Paul’s, 
Covent-garden; St. James’s, Westminster; St. Ann’s, Soho; 
and St. George’s, Hanover-square ; extending as far as Mary-1 e- 
bone to the N., "Whitehall on the S., the Savoy on the E., 
and Chelsea and Kensington on the W St. Paul’s, Covent- 
garden, was taken out of it in 1638 ; St. James’s, Westminster, 
in 1684 ; and St. Ann’s, Soho, in 1686. About the year 1680 
it was, what Burnet calls it, “the greatest cure in England,” 
with a population, says Richard Baxter, of 40,000 persons 
more than could come into the church, and “ where neigh¬ 
bours,” he adds, “ lived, like Americans, without hearing a 


128 XIV.—ST. GEORGE’Sj HANOVER SQUARE. 

Bermon for many years.” Fi’esh separations only tended to 
lessen the resources of the parish, and nothing was done to 
improve its appearance till 1826, when the mews and the 
churchyard were removed and the present Trafalgar-square 
commenced. Eminent persons buried. —Hilliard, the miniature 
painter (d. 1619).—Paul Vansomer, the painter (d. 1621).—Sir 
John Davys, the poet (d. 1626).—IST. Laniere, the painter and 
musician (d. 1646).—Dobson, called the English Van Dyck 
(d. 1646).—Stanley, the editor of .^Eschylus (d. 1678).—Nell 
Gwynne, in the church (d. 1687).—Hon. Eobert Boyle, the 
philosopher (d. 1691).—Lord Mohun, who fell in a duel with 
the Duke of Hamilton (d. 1712).—Jack Sheppard (d. 1724).— 
Farquhar, the dramatist (d. 1707).—Koubiliac, the sculptor 
(d. 1762).—James Stuart, author of the Antiquities of Athens, 
&c. (d. 1788).—John Hunter, the surgeon (d. 1793), removed 
to Westminster Abbey.—James Smith, one of the authors 
of the Rejected Addresses (d. 1839). The register records 
the baptism of Lord Bacon, born, 1561, in York House, in 
the Strand, on the site of Buckingham-street. 

ST. GEORGE’S, Hanover Square, was built by John 
James, upon ground given by Gen. W. Stewart, of Garth, who 
also contributed to the structure: it was conseerated 1724. 
This was one of the fifty new churches raised at that 
time. It contains 3 good painted windows dating about 1520, 
brought from Mechlin, and purchased by subscription, re* 
presenting a Tree of Jesse. In this church (tlie most 
fashionable chui'ch for marriages in London, in which the 
Duke of Wellington gave away so many brides) Sir Wm. 
Hamilton was maiTied, Sept. 6, 1791, to the Lady Hamil¬ 
ton, so intimately connected with the story of Lord Nelson. 
Her name in the register is Emma Harte. Here the late 
Duke of Sussex was married (1793), as “Augustus Frede- 
riek,” to Lady Augusta Murray. 

In the burial-ground on the road to Bayswater, belonging 
to this parish, and near the W. wall, Laurence Sterne, the 
author of Tristram Shandy, is buried. His grave is distin¬ 
guished by a plain headstone, set up with an unsuitable 
inscription, by a tippling fraternity of Freemasons. He 
died (1768) in Old Bond-street, in this parish. Here also was 
buried Sir Thomas Pictou, who fell at Waterloo, but his 
remains were removed 1859 to St. Paul’s Cathedral. 

In the modem classic style. Observe —Churches of ST. 
MARYLEBONE (in the Marylebone Road) and ST. PAN- 
CRAS (in the Eustou Road). St. Marylebone Avas built 


XIV.—ALL saints’ CHURCH. 


129 


1813-17, by Thonicas Hardwick, and cost 60,000/. St. Pan- 
eras was built, 1819-22, by the Messrs. Inwood, and cost 
76,679/. 7s. 8c/. Wren’s beautiful church of St. Mary-le-Bow 
cost infinitely less than even St. Marylebone. 

The church of ST. STEPHEN, Westminster, in Rochester- 
row, near Tothill fields (a London purlieu), is a beautiful speci¬ 
men of modern Gothic, with a tall spire, built, 1847-49, by 
Benj. Ferrey, at the expense of Miss Burdett Coutts. The 
tower interferes within with the harmony of the building, 
but the details throughout are excellent. The stained glass 
by Willement is in his best style. The altar-cloth was pi'e- 
sented'by the Duke of Wellington. 

ST. JAMES, Garden-street, Vauxhall-road, (Edmd. Street, 
arch.), built 1861, at a cost of 9,000/., by the Misses Monk, 
good in design and original in style, of coloured brick. It 
has a fine stately detached 'tower. The interior decorations 
should be seen. 

ALL SAINTS’, Margaret-street, Regent-st., one of the 
most original and sumptuous Gothic churches in London, 
consecrated 1859, though begun 1850, when Dr. Pusey laid 
the first stone. It is the result of private benefactions, to 
which Mr. Tritton, the banker, gave 30,000/., Mr. Beresford 
Hope, 10,000/., and it is said to have cost 60,000/. Butter¬ 
field is the architect. It is built of variegated brick, is partly 
concealed by two projecting houses, and is surmounted by a 
spire. Its size is not great, but the roof rises 75 feet. 
Observe .— The rich internal decorations of marble, almost all 
British,—the piers of polished granite,—the capitals of white 
alabaster admirably carved,—the low choir screen also of 
alabaster,—the painted windows by Gerente,—the east end 
wall entirely painted in fresco by Dyce, in compartments,— 
the Nativity, the Crucifixion, the Saviour, Virgin, and 12 
Apostles. The frescoes have suffered already severely, and 
have been retouched or painted. The font and baptistry, 
also of marble, were given by the Marquis of Sligo. 

ST. ALBAN’S, in a court near Gray’s Inn-lane, also by 
Butterfield, and good in style. Here the Services of the 
Church of England may be witnessed in a form differing as 
little as possible from those of a popish chapel. Priests in 
silken robes turning their backs to the people, genuflexions, 
incense, and elevation of the host. 

CATHOLIC APOSTOLIC CHURCH (IRVINGITE), 
Gordon Square, one of the best modern examples of good 

K 


130 


XIV.—ROMAN CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL. 


early Gothic character, designed by Brandon. It is cruci¬ 
form in plan, extending 180 feet, but is not yet finished. 
The choir rises in three stages; on the lowest are various 
lecterns; the second is allotted for the stalls of “ the 
Elders,” and the throne of ‘‘ the Angel; ” while on the 
highest stands the Altar. Behind it is a sort of vestry 
chapel. The tower is unfinished. There is some modern 
painted glass. 

WESLEYAN CHAPEL, in the City Eoad, over against 
the entrance to Bunhill-fields (desci'ibed in Section xv.). Be¬ 
hind the chapel is the grave of John Wesley (d. 1791). The 
tomb which covers it was reconstructed in 1840 dm’ing the 
centenary of Methodism. In the chapel is a tablet to Charles 
Wesley (d. 1788), ‘‘the first who received the name of Me¬ 
thodist.” 

WHITEFIELD’S CHAPEL, op the W. side of Tottenham 
Court Eoad, was built in 1756, by subscription, under the 
auspices of the Eev. George Whitefield, founder of the 
Methodists. Whitefield preached (Nov. 7th, 1756) the first 
sermon in the chapel to a very crowded audience. Mrs. 
Whitefield (d. 1768) is buried here; and here, on a monu¬ 
ment to her memory, is an inscription to her husband, who 
dying in New England, in 1770, was buried at Newbury 
Port, near Boston. John Bacon, E.A., the sculptor, is buried 
under the N. gallery. A good specimen of his talents as a 
sculptor may be seen in a bas-relief in this chapel. It was 
nearly re-built about 1858-60, and two flanking towers 
erected. 

EOWLAND HILL’S, or “Surrey Chapel,” is in the 
Blackpriars Eoad. The chapel was built for Hill, a dis¬ 
tinguished follower of Whitefield, 1782-3, and here he 
preached for nearly 50 years. The Eev. Newman Hall is no 
unworthy successor. 

SCOTTISH CHUECHES. 

National Scotch Church, Crown Court, Long Acre. 
Dr. Cumming, minister. Service 11 a.m. and 7 p.m.] 

Swallow St., Piccadilly. 

Scottish (Free) Church, Eegent-square. Built for Eev. 
Edward Irving, and where the unknown tongues he believed 
in were first heard. 

The principal Eoman Catholic Edifices in London are:— 

ST. GEOEGE’S CATHEDEAL, at the angle of the St. 
George’s and AVestminster Eoads, in the so-called Eoman 
Catholic diocese of Southwark (the largest Eoman Catholic 


XIV.—FOREIGN CHURCHES. 


131 


clmrcli erected iu this country since the Reformation), built, 
1840-48, from the designs of A. W. Pugin. It is without 
galleries, but heavy, dark and low, will hold 3000 people, 
and is said to have cost 30,000Z. The style is Decorated or 
Middle-pointed Gothic, and the material used hard yellow 
brick, with dressings of Caen stone. The Petre Chantry, 
founded for the repose of the soul of the Hon. Edward Petre 
(d. 1848), the High Altar, the Pulpit, and the Font are all 
rich in their architectural details. The tower is still un¬ 
finished. 

Roman Catholic Chapel (St. Mary’s), in Moorfields 
(East-street, Finsbmy-circus), built about 1826. Here Weber 
was buried till the removal of liis remains to Dresden, in 1844. 

Berkeley Mews Chapel— approached from South-street 
and Hill-street, Berkeley-square. 

Bavarian Chapel, Warwick-street, Regent-street,occupying 
the site of the Roman Catholic chapel destroyed in the riots 
of 1780. 

Sardinian Chapel, Duke-street, Lincoln’s-Inn-fields. 

Spanish Chapel, Spanish-place, Manchester-square. 

In York-street, St. James’s-square, is the Chapel of former 
Embassies, with the arms of Castile still I’emaining on the 
building. 

French Chapel, Little George-street, King-street, Portman- 
square. 

High Mass begins generally at 11 a.m. and Vespers at 6 p.m. 
Extra full Masses are performed on the first Sunday in the 
month, on High Feasts and Festivals, Christmas-day, Easter- 
day, &c. To secure a sitting, it is necessary to pay a shilling 
and attend about an hour befoi’e the service begins. In most 
of the Chapels, the music is very grand and impressive, and 
finely performed by eminent pi’ofessional characters, the 
members of the Italian Opera Company assisting at their 
grand festivals. For further information, see ‘^The Catholic 
Directory and Ecclesiastical Register.” 

GERMAN LUTHERAN CHAPEL, St. James’s Palace, 
between it and Marlborough House. 

GERMAN LUTHERAN CHURCH in the Savoy. 

GERMAN EVANGELICAL CHURCH, Walton-street, 
Islington, founded 1861. There are 60,000 Germans resid¬ 
ing in and about London. 

FRENCH PROTESTANT CHURCH, formerly in the 

. K 2 


132 


XV.—CEMETERIES. 


Savoy, is now in Bloomsbury-street, Bloomsbuiy. Ambrose 
Poynter, arch., 1845. 

FEENCH PROTESTANT CHURCH, founded by Edward 
VI., and formerly in Threadneedle-street, is now in St. 
Martiii’s-le-grand, over against the General Post Office. 

The DUTCH CHURCH, in Austin Friars, a fine Dec. 
Gothic building (1243), given to the Dutch congregation by 
Edward VI., 1550, has been admirably restored, since a 
fire which nearly destroyed it in 1862. It is the nave only of 
an Augustine Church, of Avhich the choir and transepts were 
destroyed temp. Henry VIII. The open vyood roof dates 
from 1864, 

GREEK CHAPEL, for the Russian Embassy, entered 
from a priyate house (No. 32), Welbeck-street, is in the 
Byzantine style, surmounted by a dome, and painted within, 
in that style. 

SWEDISH CHURCH, Prince’s Square, Ratcliffe High¬ 
way. Here Baron Swedenborg (d. 1772), founder of the 
sect of Swedenborgians, is buried. 

JEWS’ SYNAGOGUE, Great St. Helen’s, St._ Mary Axe, 
Leadenhall Street. Diyine service here begins an hour 
before sunset every Friday. The most imposing ceremonies 
take place at the time of the Passover (Easter). In the 
Jews’ Burial Ground, in Whitechapel-road, a continuation of 
Whitechapel High-street, N. M. Rothschild (d. 1836), long 
the leading stock-broker of Europe, and the founder of 
the Rothscffild family, was buried. 

Great Central Synagogue, Great Portland Street. A 
handsome building, in Moresque style; cost 25,OOOZ. Opened 
1870. 

For farther information, see Low’s Handbook to the places 
of Public Worship in London, price Is. 6d. 


XV.-CEM ETERI ES. 

The principal places of sepulture -were, till 1855, our 
churches and churchyards. St. George’s Chapel, in the Bays- 
water-road, contains 1120 coffins beneath its pavement—and 
the church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields a still greater number. 
For several years prior to 1848 there had been upwards of 
1000 burials a year within St. George’s burial ground. Yet 



XV.—KENSAL GREEN CEMETERY. 


133 


this great nuisance is situated in the very heart of the ex¬ 
pensive houses in Hyde-Park-gardens. The Norman vault 
of St. Mary-le-Bow, in Cheapside (the great thoroughfare 
of London), is literally crammed with leaden coffins piled 
30 feet high, all on the lean from their own immense 
weight, and covered with cobwebs and fungi. The church¬ 
yard of St. Paul’s, Co vent-garden, (another central cemetery), 
is the narrow place of sepulture of two centuries of the 
inhabitants of that parish. The more obnoxious graveyards 
were closed by order of the General Board of Health, pur¬ 
suant to Act of Parliament; numerous cemeteries have been 
formed since 1852 in the environs of London. 

KENSAL GREEN CEMETERY is on the Harrow Road, 
about 24 miles from the Paddington Station of the Great 
Western Railway. Omnibus to the Cemetery Gates, leaving 
the Oxford and Cambridge Tenace portion of the Edgeware- 
road, several times a day. Remember that the cemetery is 
closed on Sundays till morning service is over. It was 
formed by a joint-stock company in 1832, and yields a good 
dividend to the proprietors. It occupies 18 acres, and 
already contains the remains of 70,000 persons. It is 
divided into (a) a conseciated ground for the Church of Eng¬ 
land, and (6) an unconsecrated space for Dissenters. Thei-e is 
much bad taste in art exhibited in this cemetery, and four 
of the most conspicuous tombs are to St. John Long, the 
quack doctor; Ducrow, the rider; Morison, inventor of a 
pill; and George Robins, the auctioneer. Eminent Persons in¬ 
terred in .—Duke of Sussex, son of George III. (d. 1843), 
and the Princess Sophia, daughter of George III. (d. 1848). 
The whole of the Royal Family had been previously interred 
in the royal vault at Windsoi’, but the Duke of Sussex 
left particular directions that he should be buried in the 
cemetery at Kensal Green. The duke’s grave is near the 
chapel, and is marked by an enormous granite tomb. Anne 
Scott and Sophia Lockhart, daughters of the Author of 
Waverley, and John Hugh Lockhart, the “Hugh Little¬ 
john” of the Tales of a Grandfather; monument in inner 
circle. Allan Cunningham (d. 1842), author of the Lives 
of British Painters, Sculptors, &c.; monument in the N.W. 
corner of the cemetery. John Murray, of Albemarle-street, 
the publisher, and friend of Lord Byron (d. 1843); monu¬ 
ment in inner circle. Rev. Sydney Smith, in the public 
vault, catacomb B. Thomas Barnes (d. 1841), for many 
years editor of “ The Times ” newspaper; altar-tomb. Tom 
Hood, the poet and wit (d. 1845), a colossal bust near 


134 


XV.—BUNHILL FIELDS. 


Duci’ow’s monument. Jolin Liston, the actor, the original Paul 
Pry (d. 1846); altar-tomb, surmounted by an urn, on the left 
of the chapel. J, C. Loudon (d. 1843), celebi'ated for his 
works on gardening; altar-tomb. Sir Augustus Callcott, 
the painter (d. 1844); flat stone. Dr. Birkbeck, the pro¬ 
moter of Mechanics’ Institutions (d. 1841). Sir William 
Beatty (d. 1842), Nelson’s surgeon at the battle of Trafalgar; 
tablet in colonnade. Thomas Daniell, RA., the landscape 
painter (d. 1840); altar-tomb. Sir Mark Isambard Brunei, 
Engineer of the Thames Tunnel, inventor of the Block 
Machinery, &c., on left of the main avenue; Sir AVilliam 
Molesworth (d. 1855), Editor of Hobbes, &c.; Sir Charles 
Lock Eastlake, P.R.A.; and Thomas Hood. 

The other modern Cemeteries ai’e— Highgate, beautifully 
situated : fine view of London, well worth visiting: here 
lies Lord Lyndhurst (d. 1863), aged 92. Mich. Faraday, 
philosopher and chemist. In the old churchyard, close to 
the Chomely Schools, under an arcade are the graves of S. T. 
Coleridge the poet, his daughter, Sarah, and his son-in-law. 
There is a monument to him in St. Michael’s Church. Abney 
Park, 3^ m. E. from Post-office, containing a statue, by 
Bailey, of Dr. Isaac Watts, who resided here with Sir Thomas 
Abney. Brompton, 2 miles from Hyde-Park-comer, on the 
road to Fulham. To the E. of London, Victoria Cemetery, 
Tower Hamlets Cemetery, the City of London Cemetery, 
at Ilford, in Essex, Nunhead Cemetery, and Norwood 
Cemetery, where David Roberts, landscape painter, is buried, 
both on the Surrey side. Woking, near Guildford, a station 
on the S. W. Railway. Colney Hatch, a station on the 
Great Northern Railway. Of these cemeteries, Highgate and 
Norwood will best repay a visit. 

BUNHILL FIELDS BURIAL GROUND (i.e. hone hill), 
near Finsbury Square, called by Southey “the Campo Santo 
of the Dissenters,” served in 1549 as a place of deposit for 
1000 cartloads of human bones brought from the charnel- 
house of St. Paul’s, was made use of as a pest-field or com¬ 
mon place of interment during the Great Plague of Loudon 
in 1665. It then lay open to the fields, and is the “ great pit 
in Finsbury” of De Foe’s narrative. When the Plague was 
over, the pit was inclosed with a brick wall, “ at the sole 
charges of the City of London,” and subsequently leased by 
several of the great Dissenting sects, who objected to the 
burial-service in the Book of Common Prayer. Here all the 
interments of the Dissenters from this time forward took 
place. In 1867, all further burials being prohibited by Act 
of Parliament, this graveyard and its tomb-stones were set in 


XV.—BUNHILL FIELDS. 


135 


order, and it was handed over to the Corporation of London 
for preservation. It is now planted and thrown open to the 
Public. Record Pillars were at the same time set up in 
different places. Eminent Persons inteired in. —Dr. Thomas 
Goodwin (d. 1679), (altar-tomb, east end of ground,) the 
Independent preacher who attended Oliver Cromwell on 
his death-bed. Cromwell had then his moments of mis¬ 
giving, and asked of GoodAvin, who was standing by, if the 
elect could never finally fall. “Nothing could be more true,” 
Avas Goodwin’s ansAver. “ Then am I safe,” said CromAvell: 
“for I am sure that once I Avas in a state of grace.”—Dr. John 
Oavcii (d. 1683), Dean of Christ Church, and Vice-Chancellor 
of Oxford when Cromwell AA^as Chancellor. He AA^as much in 
favour with his party, and preached the first sermon before 
the Parhament after the execution of Charles I. — John 
Bunyan, author of The Pilgrim’s Progress, died 1688, at the 
house of his friend Mr. StrudAvick, a grocer, at the Star on 
SnoAV-hill and AV'as buried in that friend’s vault. Modern 
curiosity has marked the place of his interment with a brief 
inscription, but his name is not recorded in the Register, and 
there was no inscription upon his grave when Curll published 
his Bunhill Field Inscriptions, in 1717, or Strype his edition 
of Stow, in 1720.—George Fox (d. 1690), the founder of the 
sect of Quakers; there is no memorial to his memoiy.— 
Lieut.-Gen. Fleetwood (d. 1692), Oliver CromAvell’s son-in-laAv, 
and husband of the Avidow of the gloomy Ireton.—John 
Dunton, bookseller, author of his OAvn Life and Errors.—Daniel 
de Foe (d. 1731), author of Robinson Crusoe. He Avas born 
(1661) in the parish of St. Giles’s, Cripplegate, and Avas buried 
in the great pit of Finsbury, which he has described in his 
“Plague Year” Avith such terrific reality. Susannah Wesley 
(d. 1742), mother of John Wesley, founder of the Methodists. 
—Dr. Isaac Watts (d. 1748). There is a nionument to his 
memory, near the centre of the ground.—Joseph Ritson, the 
antiquaiy (d. 1803).—William Blake, painter and poet (d. 1828;) 
at the distance of about 25 feet from the north Avail in the 
grave numbered 80; no monument.—Thomas Stothard, R.A. 
(d. 1834), best known by his “ Canterbury Pilgrimage,” his 
“Robinson Crusoe,” and his illustrations to the Italy and 
smaller poems of Rogers.—Thomas FoAvell Buxton, Bart.— 
John Home Took. In this cemetery, consisting of less than 
4 acres, there have been intended, from April, 1713, to August, 
1852, according to the registry,—in the earlier years, how¬ 
ever, very imperfectly kept—more than 124,000 dead bodies. 
A plan of the ground and a record of every name and inscrip- 
tiou were made, 1869, and are placed in the Guildhall. 

[See Places of Burial of Eminent Persons.] 


13G 


XVI.—COURTS OF LAW AND JUSTICE. 


XVI-COURTS OF LAW AND JUSTICE. 

It is intended to remove the Courts of Law, now divided 
between Guildhall and the Old Bailey, in the City, West¬ 
minster Hall and Lincoln’s Inn (Court of Chanceiy), and to 
concentrate them in one grand edifice or Palace of Justice, 
to be erected between St. Clement’s Church, Strand, and 
Fleet-street, near Temple Bar and Lincoln’s Inn. The 
ground has been purchased by Parliament at a cost of 
785,000Z., and the design of Geo. Edw. Street has been 
approved of. The foundations were laid 1871. Great part of 
the cost will be defrayed from the accumulations of the 
Suitors’ Fund. 

WESTMINSTER HALL. The old Hall of the Palace of 
our Kings at Westminster, well and wisely incoi'porated by 
Sir Chai’les Barry into his Houses of Parliament. It was 
originally built in the reign of William Rufus (Pope calls 
it “Rufus’ roaring Hall”); and during the refacing of 
the outer walls (1848-52), a Norman ai’cade of the time of 
Rufus was uncovered. The present Hall was built, or rather 
repaired, 1397-99 (in the last three years of Richard II.), 
when the walls were raised two feet; the wfindows altei’ed ; 
and a stately porch and new roof constructed according 
to the design of Master Henry Zenely. The stone mould¬ 
ing or string-course that runs round the Hall preserves the 
white hart couchant, the favourite device of Richard II. 
The roof, with its hammer beams (carved with angels), is 
of oak, and the finest of its kind in this country. Fuller 
speaks of its “cobw^ebless beams,” alluding to the vulgar 
belief that it was built of a particular kind of wood (Irish oak) 
in which spiders cannot live. It is more curious, because 
true, that some of our early Parliaments were held in this 
Hall, and that the first meeting of Parliament in the new 
edifice was for deposing the veiy King by whom it had been 
built. The Law Courts of England, four in number, of 
which Sir Edward Coke observed that no man can tell which 
of them is most ancient, were permanently established in 
Westminster Hall in 1224 (9th of King Henry III.); and 
here, in certain courts abutting from the Hall, they are 
still held until the new Law Courts are erected. These 
courts are the Court of Chancery, in which the Lord 
Chancellor sits (salaiy 10,000Z. a-year); the Court of Queen's 
Bench, in which the Lord Chief Justice of the Queen’s 
Bench sits (salary, 8000Z. a-year); the Court of Common 
Pleas, presided over by a Chief Justice (salary, 7000Z. a- 


XVI.—WESTMINSTER HALL. 


J37 


year), and the Court of Exchequer. The eourts were origin¬ 
ally within the Hall itself, and the name Westminster Hall 
is not unfrequently used for the law itself. The highest 
Court of Appeal in the Kingdom is the House of Lords, 
presided over by the Lord Chaneellor; and it sometimes 
happens that the judgments of the Law Courts in Westmin¬ 
ster Hall are reversed in the Lords. 

Let the spectator picture to himself the appearance which 
this venerable Hall has presented on many occasions. Here 
were hung the banners taken from Charles I. at the battle of 
Naseby; from Charles II. at the battle of Worcester; at 
Preston and Dunbar; and, somewhat later, those taken at 
the battle of Blenheim. Here, at the upper end of the Hall, 
Oliver Cromwell was inaugurated as Lord Protector, sitting 
in a robe of purple velvet lined with ermine, on a rich cloth 
of state, with the gold sceptre in one hand, the Bible richly 
gilt and bossed in the other, and his sword at his side ; and 
here, four years later, at the top of the Hall fronting Palace- 
yai'd, his head was set on a pole, with the skull of Ireton on 
one side of it and the skull of Bradshaw on the other. Here 
shameless ruffians sought employment as hired witnesses, 
and walked openly in the Hall with a straw in the shoe to 
denote their quality ; and here the good, the great, the brave, 
the wise, and the abandoned have been brought to trial. 
Here (in the Hall of Rufus) Sir William Wallace was tried 
and condemned; in this very Hall, Sir Thomas More and 
the Protector Somerset were doomed to the scaffold. Here, 
in Henry VIII.’s reign (1517), entered the City apprentices, 
implicated in the murders on “ Evil May Day ” of the 
aliens settled in London, each with a halter round his neck, 
and crying '‘Mercy, gracious Lord, mercy,” while Wolsey 
stood by, and the King, beneath his cloth of state, heard 
their defence and pronounced their pardon—the prisoners 
shouting with delight and casting up their halters to the 
Hall roof, “ so that the King,” as the ehronielers observe, 
" might perceive they were none of the descreetest sort.” 
Here the notorious Earl and Countess of Somerset were tried 
in the reign of James I. for the murder of Sir Thomas Over¬ 
bury. Here the great Earl of Strafford was condemned ; the 
King being present, and the Commons sitting bareheaded all 
the time. Here the High Court of Justice sat which con¬ 
demned King Charles I., the upper part of the Hall hung with 
scarlet cloth, and the King sitting underneath, with the Naseby 
banners suspended above his head; here Lilly, the astrologer, 
who was present, saw the silver top foil from the King’s staff, 
and others heard Lady Fairfax exclaim, when her husband’s 


138 


XVI.—OLD BAILEY SESSIONS HOUSE. 


name was called over, “He has more wit than to be here.” Here, 
in the reign of James II., the seven bishops were acquitted. 
Here Dr. Sacheverel was tried and pronounced guilty by a 
majority of 17. Here the rebel Lords of 1745, Kilmaniock, 
Balmerino, and Lovat, were heard and condemned. Here 
WaiTen Hastings was tried, and Burke and Sheridan grew 
eloquent and impassioned, while senators by birth and 
election, and the beauty and rank of Great Britain, sat 
earnest spectators and listeners of the extraordinaiy scene. 
The last pubhc trial in the Hall was Lord MehdUe’s in 1806 ; 
and the last coronation dinner in the Hall was that of 
George IV., when, accoi’ding to the custom maintained for 
ages, and for the last time probably, the King’s champion 
(Dymocke) rode into the Hall in full armour, and threw 
dovm the gauntlet, challenging the world in a King’s behalf. 
Silver plates were laid, on the same occasion, for 334 guests. 

This noble Hall is 290 feet long, by 68 feet wide, and 110 
* feet high. It is the largest apartment not supported by 
pillars in the world, {See also Houses of Parliament). 

THE OLD BAILEY SESSIONS HOUSE, or Centeal 
Criminal Court, in the Old Bailey, adjoining Newgate, for 
the trial and conviction of prisoners for offences committed 
within 10 miles of St. Paul’s, is regulated by Act of Parlia¬ 
ment, 4 & 5 Will. IV., c. 36. In the “Old Court” sit one or 
moi’e of the judges in Westminster Hall. In the Ne-w Court 
the presiding judges are the Eecorder and Common Serjeant 
of the Corporation of London, Upwards of 2000 persons, 
annually, are placed at the bar of the Old Bailey for trial; 
about one-third are acquitted, one third are first ounces, .and 
the remaining portion have been convicted before. The 
stranger is admitted on payment of at least Is. to the officer 
whose perquisite it is, but this perquisite is regulated by 
the officer himself, according to the importance of the trials 
that are on. Over the Court-room is a Dining-room, where 
the judges dine when the Court is over—a practice com¬ 
memorated by a well-known line— 

“And wretches hang that jurymen may dine.” 

Adjoining the Sessions House is the prison c,ailed ^^Newqate." 
[See Index.] 

The Metropolitan County Courts, holding a summary 
jurisdiction over debts and demands not exceeding 507, are 
eleven in number. The judges are barristers appointed by 
the Lord Chancellor. The Bankruptcy Court is in Basinghall- 


XVI.— rOtICE COURTS. 


139 


street, in the City; the Insolvent Debtors Court in Portugal- 
street, Lincoln’s-Inn-Fields. 

CLERKENWELL SESSIONS HOUSE, the next in import* 
ance to the Old Bailey, was originally Hicks’s Hall. The 
Law Court was removed hither in 1782. A fine James I. 
chimney-piece from the old Hall is one of the interior deco¬ 
rations of the House. 

The City Police Courts are at the Mansion House and 
Guildhall, where the Lord Mayor, or the sitting Alderman, 
are the magistrates who decide cases or send them for trial. 

The Police Courts connected with the Metropolitan Police 
are eleven in number, under the control of the Secretary of 
State for the Home Department, presided over by 23 Bar¬ 
risters of at least seven years’ standing at the bar. They 
sit daily, Sundays excepted. The Metropolitan Courts are— 
Bow-street, Clerkenwell, Great Marlborough-street, Greenwich 
and Woolwich, Hammersmith and Wandswoiiih, Lambeth, 
Maiylebone, Southwai'k, Thames, Westminster, Worship- 
street ; and the amount of Fees, Penalties, and Forfeitures, 
levied and received by the Metropolitan Police in one year 
is about 10,000Z. The expense of the Force is defrayed by 
an assessment limited to 8rf. in the pound on the parish 
rates, the deficiency being made up by the Treasury. 

The Metropolitan Police Force consists of about 9000 men, 
paid at various rates averaging 20s. a-week, with clothing, 
and an allowance of coal. This Force is placed under the 
command of 4 District Superintendants and 25 Superintend- 
ants. The total cost for one year is 858,832?.; for the City 
alone, 48,172?. There are about 2,400 men on the supcrau- 
nnatiou list, from old age or injuries received in performance 
of their duty. 

Before 1829, when the present excellent Police Force (for 
which London is indebted wholly to Sir Robert Peel) was 
first introduced, the watchmen, familiarly called “ Charlies,” 
who guarded the streets of London, were often incompetent 
and feeble old men, totally unfitted for their duties. The 
Police is now composed of young and active men, and the 
Force that has proved perfectly effective for the metropolis 
(having saved it more than once from Chartist and other 
rioters, and from calamities such as befel Bristol in 1831) has 
since been introduced with equal success nearly throughout 
the kingdom. 

The Policemen are dressed in blue, and have marked on 
their coat-collar the number and letter of their division. The 


140 


XVII.—INNS OF COURT—THE TEMPLE. 


City Police marking is in yellow; the Metropolitan in white. 
Every man is furnished with a baton, a rattle, a lantern, an 
oil-skin cape, and a great-coat, and carries on his right wrist 
a white baud while on duty. It is estimated that each con¬ 
stable walks from 20 to 25 miles a day. During 2 months 
out of 3, each constable is on night duty, from 9 at night till 
6 iu the morning. 

Fire Brigade. The protection of London from fire is 
now part of the duty of the Metropolitan Board of AYorks. 
The Fire Brigade has 60 ’='tations in and around London, to 
which are attached 3 floating engines, 25 land steam- 
engines, and 61 hand fire engines, manned by a corps of 377 
firemen. The annual cost 53,0007, of which 15,0007 is con- 
ti'ibuted by the Insurance Offices,. 10,0007 by Government, 
nearly 1,200L from chimney-fire penalties iu twelve months, 
and the rest is raised by a rate. The moment an alarm of 
fire is given at a station, a hand-engine, dra^vn by two horses, 
starts at the rate of twelve miles an hour for the spot. The 
steam-engine follows, but at a slower pace, steam being 
raised while it moves along. 


XVlI.-INiMS OF COURT AND INNS OF CHANCERY 

INNS OF COURT, ‘‘the noblest nurseries of Humanity 
and Liberty in the kingdom,” are four in number —Inner 
Temple, Middle Temple, Lincoln's Inn, and Gray's Inn. They 
are called Inns of Court, from being anciently held in the 
“ AulaRegia,” or Court of the King’s Palace, Their government 
is vested in “ Benchers,” consisting of the most successful 
and distinguished members of the English Bar—a numerous 
body, “ composed of above 3080 Bai’risters, exclusive of the 
28 Serjeants-at-Law.” No person can be called to the bar 
at any of the Inns of Court before he is 21 years of age, and 
a standing of 5 years is understood to be required of every 
member before being called. The members of the several 
Universities, &c., may be called after 3 years’ standing. Everj’’ 
student may, if he choose, dine in the Hall every day during 
term. A bottle of wine is allowed to each mess of four. 

The TEMPLE is a liberty or district, divided into the 
Inner Temple and Middle Temple. It lies between Fleet- 
street and the Thames, and was so called from the Knights 
Templar, who made their fii*st London habitation in Holborn, 
in 1118, and removed to Fleet-street, or the New Temple, 




XVII.—THE TEMPLE. 


141 


ill 1184. Spenser alludes to this London locality in his 
beautiful Prothalamion: — 


“ those bricky towers 

The which on Thames’ broad aged back doe ride, 

Wliere now the studious lawyei’s have their bowers, 

There whilom wont the Templar Knights to bide. 

Till they decayed through pride.” 

At the downfall of the Templars, in 1313, the New Temple 
in Fleet-street was given by Edward II. to Aymer de Valence, 
Earl of Pembroke, whose tomb, in Westminster Abbey, has 
called forth the eulogistic criticism of the classic Flaxman. 
At the Earl of Pembroke’s death the property passed to 
the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, by whom the Inner 
and Middle Temples were leased to the students of the 
Common Law, and the Outer Temple to Walter Stapleton, 
Bishop of Exeter, and Lord Treasurer, beheaded by the 
citizens of London in 1326. No change took place when the 
Temple property passed to the Crown, at the dissolution 
of religious houses, and the students of the Inns of Court 
remained tenants of the Crown till 1608, when James I. 
conferred the Temple (now so called) on the Benchers of the 
two societies and their successors for ever'. There are two 
edifices in the Temple w-ell worthy of a visit: the Temple 
Church {See Churches), and Middle Temple Hall. 

Middle Temple Hall, 100 feet long,‘42 feet wide, and 47 
feet high, was built in 1572, while Plowden, the well-known 
jurist, was Treasui’er of the Inn. The roof is the best piece 
of Elizabethan architecture in London,, and will well repay 
inspection. The screen, in the Kenaissance style, is said to 
have been made of the spoils of the Spanish Armada, but 
this is a vulgar error, since it was set up 1575. Here are 
marble busts of Lords Eldon and Stowell, by Behnes. The 
portraits are chiefly copies, and not good. The exterior 
was cased with stone, in wretched taste, in 1757. We first 
hear of Shakspcare’s Twelfth Night in connexion -with its 
performance in this fine old Hall. 

The principal entrance to the Middle Temple is by a 
heavy red-brick front in Fleet-street with stone dressings, 
built, in 1684, by Sir C. Wren, in place of the old portal 
which Sir Amias Paulet, while Wolsey’s prisoner in the 
gate-house of the Temple, had re-edified very sumptuously, 
garnishing the same,” says Cavendish, ‘^on the outside 
thereof, with cardinal’s hats and arms, and divers other 
devices, in so glorious a sort, that he thought thereby to 
have appeased his old unkind displeasure.” The New Paper 
Buildings, to the river, built from the designs of Sydney 


142 


XVII.—Lincoln’s inn. 


Smirke, A.R.A., are in excellent taste, recalling the •‘bricky- 
towers ” of Spenser’s Prothalamion. Inner Temple Hall was 
rebuilt by Sydney Smh'ke, 1869. It is 94 feet long by 40 feet 
high, surmounted by an open roof. It is a very handsome 
structure. Under the N. end is an old crypt. 

Shakspeare has made the Temple Gardens —a fine open 
space, fronting the Thames—the place in which the dis¬ 
tinctive badges (the white rose and red rose) of the houses 
of York and Lancaster were first assumed by their respective 
partisans. 

^‘Suffolk. Within the Temple Hall we were too loud; 

The garden here is more convenient. 

Plantagenet. Let him that is a true-born gentleman, 

And stands upon the honour of his birth, 

If he suppose that I have pleaded truth. 

From off this brier pluck a white rose with me. 

“ Somerset. Let him that is no cowai'd, nor no flatterer. 

But dare maintain the party of the truth. 

Pluck a red rose from off this thorn with me. 

“ Plantagenet. Hath not thy rose a canker, Somerset? 

“Somerset. Hath not thy rose a thorn, Plantagenet? 

a- * * * * * 

“ Warwick. This brawl to-day. 

Grown to this faction in the Temple Gardens, 

Shall send, between the red rose and the white, 

A thousand souls to death and deadly night.” 

Shakspeare, First Part of Henry VI., Act ii., sc. 4. 

It would now be impossible to revive the scene in the sup¬ 
posed place of its origin, for such is the smoke and foul air 
of London, that the commonest and hardiest kind of rose 
has long ceased to put forth a bud in the Temple Gardens. 
In the autumn, however, a 6ne display of Chrysanthemums, 
reared with great care, may be seen in them. The Temple 
is walled in on every side, and protected with gates. There 
is no poor-law within its precinct. The Cloisters, adjoining 
the Temple Church, were rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren 
for students to walk in, and put cases in law for the consi¬ 
deration of one another. In No. 1, Inner-Temple-lane, Dr. 
Johnson had chambers, and here Boswell paid his first visit 
after his introduction to him at Tom Davies’s. The house 
was pulled down 1858, and the row called Johnson's Build¬ 
ings occupies the site. In No. 2, Brick-court, Middle-Temple- 
lane, up two pair of stairs, for so Mr. Filby, his tailor, informs 
us, lived and died Oliver Goldsmith : his rooms were on the 
right hand as you ascend the staircase. The great Earl of 
Mansfield, when Mr. Murray, had chambers in No. 5, King’s- 
Bench-walk. 

LINCOLN’S INN is an Inn of Court, with two Inns of 


XVII.—Lincoln’s inn. 


143 


Chancciy attached, FurnivaVs Inn and Tkavies’ Inn, and so 
called after Henry de Lacy, Earl of Lincoln (d. 1312), whose 
town-house, or inn, occupied a considerable portion of the 
present Inn of Court, whieh bears both his name and arms, 
and whose monument in old St. Paul’s Avas one of the state¬ 
liest in the chui’ch. The Gatehouse of brick in Chancery-lane 
(the oldest part of the existing building) was built by Sir 
Thomas Lovell, and bears the date upon it of 1518. The 
chambers adjoining are of a somewhat later period, and it is to 
this part perhaps that Fuller alludes when he says that —“ He 
[Ben Jonson] helped in the building of the new structure of 
Lincoln’s Inn, when, having a trowel in one hand, he had a 
book in his pocket.” In No. 24, in the south angle of the 
great court leading out of Chancery-lane, formerly called the 
Gatehouse-court, but now Old-buildings, and in the apart¬ 
ments on the left hand of the ground-floor, Oliver Cromwell’s 
secretary, Thurloe, had chambers from 1645 to 1659. Crom¬ 
well must often have been here; and here, by the merest 
accident, long after Thurloe’s death, the Thurloe Papers 
were accidentally discovered, concealed in a false ceiling. 

Lincoln’s Inn Chapel, in the Perp. style of Gothic, but 
much debased, was built by Inigo Jones, and consecrated on 
Ascension Day, 1623, Dr. Donne pi’eaching the consecration 
sermon. The Roman Doric pilasters, creeping up the sides 
of the bastard Gothic of the crypt, deserve attention. The 
stained glass windows (very good for the period) wei’e exe¬ 
cuted “ by Mr. Hall, a glass-painter, in Fetter-lane, and in 
point of colour are as rich as the richest Decorated glass of 
the best period.” Some of the figures will repay attention. 
The windows on the S. side are filled with the Twelve Apos¬ 
tles ; on the N.* by Moses and the Prophets, St. John the 
Baptist and St. Paul. The St. John the Baptist was executed, 
as an inscription in the window records, at the expense of 
William Noy (d. 1634), the Attorney-General of Charles I. 
The crypt beneath the chapel on open arches, like the cloisters 
in the Temple, was built as a place for the students and 
lawyers “to walk in and talk and confer their learnings.” 
The Round part of the Temple Church was long employed 
for a similar purpose. Butler and Pepys allude to this 
custom. Here were buried Alexander Brome, the Cavalier 
song-writer; Secretary Thurloe; and William Piynne, the 
Puritan, who wrote against the “ unloveliness of love locks.” 
On the stair is a marble tablet to the only daughter of Lord 
Brougham : the inscription in Latin verse by Marq. Wel¬ 
lesley. The preacher at Lincoln’s Inn, usually one of the 
most eminent divines of the Church of England, is chosen 
by the Benchers. 


144 


XVII.—gray’s inx. 


Lincoln's Inn Hall and Library, on the E. side of 
Lincoln’s-Inn-fields (Philip Hai’dwick, R.A., architect), is 
a noble structure in the Tudor style, built, 1843-45, of red 
brick with stone dressings. The Hall is 120 ft. long, 
45 ft.* wide, and 62 ft. high, with a roof of carved oak. The 
total cost exceeded 55,000?. Ohsei've. —In the Hall, Watts' 
grand fresco—The School of Legislation, occupying the whole 
N. wall, represents the lawgivers of the world, from Moses 
down to Edward I.—30 figures, chiefly colossal. Above are 
Religion, with Mercy and Justice on either hand ; below, in 
the centre, Moses; on left, Minos, Lycurgus, Di’aco, Solon, 
Numa; right, Sesostris, Zoroastei', Pythagoras, Confucius, 
and Menu; 3rd row, in centre, Justinian and Theodora dic¬ 
tating the Pandects ; next Charlemagne : near him a Druid 
priest; Ina, King of the W. Saxons, and Alfred, ascending 
the steps. On the lowest step Stephen Langton and two 
other of the Magna Charta Barons, and Edwai’d I. in armour, 
seated. In the Hall hangs Hogarth's picture of Paul before 
Felix, painted for the Benchers on the recommendation of 
the great Lord Mansfield, as the appropriation of a legacy 
to the Inn of 200?.; statue of Lord Erskine, by Sir R. West- 
macott, R.A, Observe in Drawing-room, <i;c., portraits of Sir 
Matthew Hale, by Wnght; Lord Chancellor Bathurst, by 
Sir N. Dance ; and Sir William Grant, Master of the Rolls, 
by Harlowe. The Library contains the unique fourth volume 
of Prynne’s Records, for which the Society paid 335?. at 
the Stowe sale in 1849 ; and the rich collection of Books 
and MSS., the bequest of Sir Matthew Hale, “ a treasure,” 
says Hale, in his will, “that are not fit for eveiy man’s 
view.” The Court of Chancery sits in “Term Time” at 
Westminster; during the “Vacation” in Lhicoln’s Inn Old 
Hall, a mean building near the Chapel. 

Lincoln's Inn New Square (built on Little Lincoln’s-Inn- 
fields) forms no part of the Inn of Court called Lincoln’s 
Inn. 

GRAY’S INK is an Inn of Court, with two Inns of 
Chancery attached. Staple Inn and Barnard's Inn, and is 
so called after Edmund, Lord Gray of Wilton, of the time of 
Henry VII. The Hall was built in 1560, and the Gardens 
first planted about 1600. The gi'eat Lord Burghley and the 
great Lord Bacon, who dates the dedication of his Essays 
“from my chamber at Graies Inn, this 30 of Januarie, 1597,” 
are the chief worthies of the Inn. Bradshaw, who sat as 
president at the tinal of Charles I., was a bencher of the Inn. 

Gray's Inn Walks, or Qraifs Inn Gardens, were in Charles 


XVII.—CLEMENT’S INN. 


145 


II.’s time, and the days of the Tatler and Spectator, a 
fashionable promenade on a summer evening. The great 
Lord Bacon is said to have planted some of the trees, but 
none now exist coeval with his time. As late as 1754 there 
was still in the gardens an octagonal seat, erected by Lord 
Bacon when Solicitor-General, to his friend Jeremiah 
Bettenham, of this Inn. The principal entrance from 
Holborn was by Fulwood’s-rents, then a fashionable loca¬ 
lity, now the squalid habitation of the poorest people of 
the Parish of St. Andrew. “Within Gray’s Inn Gate, next 
Gray’s Inn Lane,” Jacob Tonson first kept shop. The first 
turning on the right (as you walk from Holborn up Gray’s- 
Inn-lane) is Fox-court, in which, on the 10th of January, 
1697-8, at 6 o'clock in the morning, the Countess of Maccles¬ 
field was delivered, wearing a mask all the while, of Richard 
Savage, the poet. The only toast ever publicly drunk by the 
Society of Gray’s Inn is, “To the glorious, pious, and 
immortal memoiy of Queen Elizabeth.” 

The INNS OF CHANCERY, attached to the four Inns 
of Court, are nine in number. To the Irmer Temple belonged 
Clifford’s Inn, Clement’s Inn, and Lyon’s Inn; to the Middle 
Temple, New Inn and Strand Inn; to Lincoln's Inn, Furnival’s 
Inn and Thavies’ Inn; and to Gray's Inn, Staple Inn and 
Baimard’s Inn. They have now little or no connexion with 
the Inns of Court. 

Harrison, the regicide, was a clerk in the office of Thomas 
Houlker, an attorney in Clifford’s Inn. 

Justice Shallow was a student of Clement’s Inn. 

“ Shallow. I was once of Clement’s Inn; where I think they will talk 
of mad Shallow yet. 

Silence. You were called lusty Shallow then, cousin. 

‘■^Shallow. By the mass, I was called anything; and I would have 
done anything indeed, and roundly too. There was I and Little John 
Doit of Staffordshire, and Black George Barnes of Staffordshire, and 
Francis Pickbone and Will Squele, a Cotswold man; you had not four 
such swinge-bucklers in all the Inns of Court again. 

»«***•** 

^‘Shallow. Nay, she must be old; she cannot choose but be old; certain 
she’s old, and had Robin Nightwork by old Nightwork, before I came 
to Clement’s Inn. 

“Shalloto. I remember at Mile-end-green (when I lay at Clement’s Inn). 
I was then Sir Dagonet in Arthur’s show. 

******** 

“Falstaff. I do remember him at Clement’s Inn, like a man mad 
after supper of a cheese-paring."— Shakspeare, Second Part of Henry IV. 

“Withowt St. Clement’s Inn -back dore, as soon as you 

I. 


146 XVIII.—NEWGATE. 

come up the steps and OAvt of that house and dore on your 
left hand two payre of stayres, into a little passage right be¬ 
fore you,” lived Wenceslaus Hollar, the engraver. The black 
figure kneeling in the garden of Clement’s Inn was presented 
to the Inn by Holies, Earl of Clare, but when or by what 
earl no one has told us. , It was brought from Italy, and is 
said to be of bronze. 

William Weare, murdered by Thurtell, at Gill’s-hill, in 
Hertfordshire, lived at No. 2 in Lyon’s Inn. 

“ They cut his throat from ear to ear. 

Ills brains they batter’d in; 

Ilis name was Mr. William Weare 
He dwelt in Lyon’s Inn.” 

Contemporary Ballad, attributed to Theodore Hook. 

Isaac Reed (d. 1807^ had chambers at No. 11, Staple Inn, 
Holborn. 

The yearly rental of the Inns and Court of Chancery is in round 


numbers as follows :— 
Lincoln’s Inn 

. £33,329 

Clement’s Inn . 

. . £1,653 

Inner Temple . . 

. 25,676 

Clifford’s Inn . 

818 

Gray’s Inn . 

. 16,036 

Lyon’s Inn 

. . 423 

Middle Temple 
Furaival’s Inn . 

. 12,640 

New Inn . 

. . 1,646 

4,386 

Sergeant s Inn . 

. . 1,600 

Staple Inn 

Barnard’s Inn . 

2,553 

1,031 

£101,790 


XVIII.-PRISONS AND PENITENTIARIES. 

NEWGATE, in the Old Bailey, is a prison appertaining 
to the city of London and county of Middlesex, formerly 
for felons and debtors; since 1815 (when Whitecross-street 
Prison was built) for felons only, and is now used as the gaol 
for the confinement of prisoners from the metropolitan 
counties, before and after their trial at the Centi’al Criminal 
Court in the Old Bailey. It is the oldest prison in London, 
was so called because it was the tower of a gate of the same 
name. In Old Newgate were confined William Penn, Titus 
Oates, Defoe, Dr. Dodd, Jack Sheppard, &c. The present 
edifice was designed by George Dance, the architect of the 
Mansion House, and the first stone laid by Alderman Beck- 
foi’d, 1770. The works advanced but slowly, for in 1780, 
when the old prison was burnt to the gi’ound in the Lord 
George Gordon riots of that year, the new prison was only 
in part completed. More rapid progi’css was made in con- 







XVIII.—BRIDEWELL—IIORSEMONGER-LANE GAOL. 147 

sequence of this event, and on December 9tli, 1783, tlie first 
execution took place before its walls, the last at Tyburn 
occui'ring November 7th. At an execution the prisoner 
used to walk forth to death through the door neai'est 
Newgate-street to the scaffold. Executions now take place 
within the prison walls, before legal witnesses only, and the 
only sign on the outside is a black flag, 1868. The interior 
was rebuilt 1858, on the cellular system. The prison will 
hold 192 persons. Here, in the prison he had emptied and 
set in flames. Lord George Goixlon, the leader of the riots 
of 1780, died (1793) of the gaol distemper, and in front of 
this prison Bellingham was executed (1812) for the murder 
of Mr. Perceval, the Prime Minister. Admission to inspect 
the interior is granted by the Secretary of State for the 
Home Department, the Lord Mayor, and Sheriffs. Observe .— 
Opposite this prison, No. 68, Old Bailey, the residence of 
Jonathan Wild, the famous thief and thief-taker; imme¬ 
diately behind his house is a good specimen of the old wall 
of London. 

BRIDEWELL—a City prison for refractory apprentices, 
in Bridge-street, Blackfriars, and behind the church of St. 
Bride, Fleet-street, has been partly pulled down since the 
erection of the City House of Correction at Holloway. It 
derives its name from a manor or house, presented to the 
City of London by Edward VI., after a sei'mon by Bishop 
Ridley, who begged it of the King as a Workhouse for the 
poor, and a House of Correction “ for the strumpet and idle 
person, for the noter that consumeth all, and for the vaga¬ 
bond that will abide in no place.” Over the chimney in the 
Court-room hangs a large picture, certainly not by Holbein, 
representing Edward VI. delivering the Charter of Endow¬ 
ment to the Mayor. 

HORSEMONGER LANE GAOL, Horsemonger Lane, 
Southwark, is the county gaol for Surrey. Here Mr. Leigh 
Hunt was confined for two years (1812-14) for a libel on the 
Prince Regent in the Aicammer newspaper, and here (Nov. 13th, 
1849) Mr. and Mrs. Manning were hung. The place of execu¬ 
tion was the top of the prison. Executions in public were 
abohshed 1868, conformably with a suggestion proposed in 
this work many years before. Death is now inflicted within 
the prison walls, before the police and properly appointed 
witnesses; a black flag alone being exhibited for a short 
time before and after death, by which all the demoralizing 
excitement has been avoided. 

MILLBANK PRISON is a mass of brickwork equal to a 


148 


XVllI.—MILLBANK PRISON. 


fortress, on the left bank of the Thames, close to Vauxhall 
Bridge; erected on ground bought in 1799 of the Marqrns of 
Salisbury, pursuant to Act of Parliament, Aug. 20th, 1812. 
It was designed by Jeremy Bentham, to whom the fee-simple 
of the ground was conveyed, and is said to have cost the 
enormous sum of half a million sterling. The external walls 
form an irregular octagon, and enclose upwards of sixteen 
acres of land. Its ground-plan resembles a wheel, the 
governor’s house occupying a circle in the centre, from 
which radiate six piles of building, tei'minating externally 
in towers. The ground on which it stands is raised but 
little above the river, and was at one time considered un¬ 
healthy. It was first named “ The Penitentiary,” and was 
called “ The Millbank Prison,” pursuant to 6 & 7 Victoria, 
c. 26. It is the largest prison in London, and contains 
accommodation for 1120 prisoners; the number of inmates 
averaging about 700. The annual cost for 1000 prisoners 
is 28,643/,, and the value of their labour in that time, 
2375/, So far as the accommodation of the prison permits, 
the separate system is adopted. The number of persons 
in Great Britain and Ireland condemned to penal servitude 
every year amounts to about 4000, Admission to inspect — 
order from the Secretary of State for the Home Department, 
or the Directors of Government Prisons, 25, Parliament 
Street, Westminster. 

THE MODEL PEISOH, Pentonville, Caledonian-road, 
near the new Cattle-market, built 1840, cost 84,168/. 12s. 2c/. 
It contains 1000 separate cells. The inmates are detained 
for two years, and are taught useful rtades; a most mer¬ 
ciful and charitable provision, which it is to be hoped may 
prove successful. The cost of each prisoner is about 15s. 
a week. 

CLERKENWELL PRISON—Was the scene of the das¬ 
tardly and atrocious outrage of certain mad Irish Fenians, 
1867, who, in the desire to liberate certain of their comrades, 
blew down part ^f the wall with a barrel of gunpowder placed 
outside. The result was the death and maiming of more 
than 80 innocent persons. 

THE HOUSE OF CORRECTION, Cold Bath Fields, will 
hold about 1200 prisoners, and is under the direction of the 
Middlesex Magistrates and the Secretary of State for the 
Home Department. There is a similar House of Correction 
at Westminster. The principal prison for debtors is The 
Debtors’ Prison, so called, in Whitecross-street, for 380 
prisoners. The annual cost of these two to the City of 
London is 10,000/. The famous Fleet Prison was abolished 


XVIII,—PRISONS.—XIX.—BRITISH MUSEUM. 149 


during the reign of her present Majesty, and the site con¬ 
verted into a goods station for the London, Chatham, and 
Dover Railway. Whitecross Street Prison is set apart 
for the confinement of debtors. 

CITY OF LONDON PRISON, Holloway (Mr. Bunning, 
Architect,) is a castellated building presenting a mediaeval 
character, erected 1853-5, to contain the class of prisoners 
formerly committed to Giltspur Street House of Correction, 
Bridewell, and the House of Correction for women at the 
Borough Compter: while, in the same way, the New House of 
Correction at Wandsworth has reheved the Surrey or Horse- 
monger Lane Gaol. Average number of prisoners, 320. 


XlX.-PERMANENT FREE EXHIBITIONS. 

BRITISH MUSEUM, in Great Russell Street, Blooms¬ 
bury; built 1823-54 from the designs of Sir Robert Smirke, 
but completed by his younger brother, Sydney Smirke, A.R. A. 
The cost of the building exceeds one million sterling ! 
It is faced with a portico, whose columns are extended 
round the wings of the building, and are 44 in number. 
The sculpture in the pediment is by Sir Richard Westmacott. 

Admission .—The Museum is open to public view on Mon¬ 
days, Wednesdays, and Fridays, and in summer on Saturday 
afternoons, from 10 till 4 during January, February, Novem¬ 
ber and December; from 10 till 5 during March, April, 
September and October; and from 10 till 6 during May, 
June, July and August. 

The Museum is closed from the 1st to the Vtli of January, 
the 1st to the 7th of May, and the 1st to the 7th of 
September, inclusive, on Ash Wednesday, Good Friday, and 
Christmas Day, and also on any special fast or thanksgiving 
day, ordered by Authority. 

—The Reading Room is open every day, except on Sundays, 
on Ash Wednesday, Good Friday, Christmas Day, and on any 
fast or thanksgiving days, ordered by Authority; except also 
between the 1st and 7th of January, the 1st and 7th of May, 
and the 1st and 7th of September, inclusive. The Room is 
open from 9 till 4 during November, December, January, and 
February ; from 9 till 5 during September, October, March 
and April; and from 9 till 6 during May, June, July and 
August (except Saturdays, and then till 5). Persons desirous 
of admission must produce a recommendation from a house¬ 
holder in London satisfactory to a trustee or an officer of 
the house, and must send in their applications in writing 
(specifying their Christian and surnames, rank or profession. 



150 


XIX.—BRITISH MUSEUM. 


and places of abode), to the Principal Librarian, or, in his 
absence, to the Secretary, or, in his absence, to the senior 
Under Librarian, wlio will either immediately admit such 
persons, or lay their applications before the next meeting of 
the trustees. Pei’mission will in general be granted for six 
months; and at the expiration of this term fresh application 
is to be naade for a renewal. The tickets given to readers 
are not transferable, and no person can be admitted without 
a ticket. Persons under 21 years of age are not admissible. 

Artists ai’e admitted to study in the Galleries of Sculpture, 
between the hours of 9 and 4, every day, except Saturday. 

The Print Room is closed on Saturdays. 

The Medal and Pi’int Rooms can be seen only by a few 
persons at a time, and by particular permission. 

The British Museum originated in an offer to Parliament, 
made in the will of Sir Hans Sloane (d. 1753), of the whole 
of his collection for 20,000^.—30,000Z. less than it Avas said to 
have cost him. The offer Avas at once accepted, and an Act 
passed in 1753, “for the purchase of it, and of the Hai’leian 
Collection of MSS., and procuring one general repository for 
the better I’eception and more convenient use of the said 
Collection, and of the Cottonian Library, and additions 
thereto.” In pursuance of this Act the sum of 300,000^. 
was raised by a Lotteiy; 20,000Z. paid for the Sloane 
Museum, 10,000Z. for the Harleian Collection of MSS., and 
10,250Z. to the Earl of Halifax for Montague House in 
Bloomsbury—a mansion at that time perfectly Avell adapted 
for all the objects of the Museum. The collections 
increasing, new rooms Avere added to recede the Egyptian 
Antiquities, given by George III, in 1801. The government 
of the Museum is vested in trustees, and the chief Gifts and 
Bequests include the Cotton MSS.; a collection of Books, and 
the interest of 7000Z,, bequeathed by Major Edwardes; the 
Royal Library of the Kings of England; Garrick’s Collection 
of Old Plays; Di*. Birch’s Books and MSS.; Thomas Tyrwhitt’s 
Books; Rev. C, Cracherode’s Books, Prints, &c., valued at 
40,000^ ; Sir Wm. Musgrave’s Books, MSS., and Prints; Payne 
Knight’s Books, Bronzes, and DraAvings; Sir Joseph Banks’s 
Books and Botanical Specimens; Library formed by George 
III.; and Mr. Grenville’s Library. The Additional Purchases 
include Sir William Hamilton’s Collection, 8400Z,; ToAAniley 
Marbles, 28,200Z.; Phigalian Marbles, 19,000Z,; Elgin Marbles, 
35,000Z.; Dr. Burney’s MSS., 13,500Z,; LansdoAvne MSS., 
4925Z.; Arundel MSS,, 3559Z,; Blacas Collection, 48,000Z. 

Catalogue or synopsis of the contents of the Museum, price 
one shilling, compiled under the dn-ection of the tmstees. 


XIX.—BRITISH MUSEUM 


151 



READING-ROOM 


Vit/trtrtct 
naiL a 


GftiUffjr 


CRENVaVP^iLIBRARY 


5• D *1 

M ^ V 

1 > N ^ 

BBKiaEa* 

1 T |d ' Q 1 

0 .. 0 I k| 

.—^ 


GROUND PLAN OF THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 
































































152 


XIX.—BRITISH MUSEUM—ANTIQUITIES. 


The ancient sculpture is superior to any other single col¬ 
lection in Europe, as furnishing a complete series from 
Egypt, Assyria, and Greece, as well as Rome. 

Antiquities. —Turning to left out of the entrance hall you 
pass through a narrow gallery containing Roman pavements, 
pigs of lead bearing Roman inscriptions, &c., found in London 
and other parts of England. 

In the adjoining rooms are arranged Roman and Grseco- 
Roman sculptures, terra-cottas, &c., chiefly from Charles 
Townley’s collection : many of the best of these are works 
executed by Greek artists in Italy. Observe — The 
Townley Venus, a half-draped statue found near Ostia, 1775 ; 
—bust of Minerva, the bronze helmet and breast-plate modern; 
—busts of Homer, Pindar, Sophocles, Periander, Hippocrates, 
Pericles,—the Discobulus, or Quoit-player, from Hadrian’s 
villa (a copy of the bronze statue by Myron);—bust of Clytie 
emerging from a sun-flower (now called a Roman Empress); 
statue of Hadrian in military costume; bas-relief, the Apo¬ 
theosis of Homer. 

Lycian Room. —A series of tombs, bas-reliefs, and statues 
from the ruined city of Xanthus; one group formed the 
ornaments of the Nereid monument of Xanthus—an Ionic 
peristyle on a basement surrounded with two bands of 
friezes, representing the conquest of Lycia by the Persians, 
and the fall of Xanthus as related by Herodotus. The 
Harpy Tomb is a curious example of very early art. These 
marbles, some of them, of an earlier date than those of the 
Parthenon, were discovered and brought to England by Sir 
Charles Fellows. 

TJie Egyptian Antiquities, the earliest examples of ancient 
sculpture, are arranged in chronological order, beginning with 
the 4th Dynasty, in three large Halls, and comprise about 
6000 objects. The largest saloon contains Sarcophagi, 
Columns, Statues, Colossi, Tablets of the Dead, Sepulchral 
Urns, &c. Observe. —Two Lions Couchant, in red granite 
(1 and 34), “perfect models of Architectonic Sculpture.” 
— Waagen. Colossal Head, 9 feet high, of Rameses IL, 
but better known as the Young Memnon, found in 
the Memnonium at Thebes, by Belzoni, and deservedly 
regarded as the most celebrated monument of Egyptian 
art in any European collection. Colossal Head of a king 
wearing the pshent, discovered by Belzoni in Karnak. 
Statue in red granite of Menepthah II. Colossal Ram’s 
Head. The stone Sarcophagus of King Nectanebo I. 
(b.c. 367-369), found by the French in the court-yard of 
the Mosque of S. Athanasius, at Alexandria. Dr. Clarke 


XIX.—EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES. , 


153 


the traveller, fancied that this was the identical sarcophagus 
which once contained the body of Alexander the Great. 
Colossal Scarabseus. The Rosetta Stone, containing an inscrip¬ 
tion three times repeated—1, in hieroglyphics; 2, in a 
written character called Demotic or Enchoreal; and 3, in 
the Greek language. This celebrated stone furnished the 
late Dr. Young with the first clue towards the deciphering 
of the ancient Egyptian hieroglyphics. It was found (1799) 
by M. Bouchard, a French officer of engineers, in digging 
the foundation of a house, near the Rosetta mouth of the 
Nile, among the remains of an ancient temple dedicated 
by Pharaoh Necho to the god Necho, and came into the 
hands of the English by the sixteenth article of the capi¬ 
tulation of Alexandria, which required that all objects of 
art collected by the French Institute in Egypt should be 
delivered up to the English. The stone itself is a piece of 
black basalt, much mutilated, about 3 feet long, by 2 feet 
5 inches broad, and from 10 to 12 inches thick, and contains 
a decree set up in the reign of Ptolemy V. (Epiphanes), 
probably about the year b.c. 196. The principal historical 
facts mentioned are the birth of the King b.c,, 209; the 
troubles in Egypt, and the decease of his father Philopator; 
the attack of Antiochus by sea and land; the siege of Lyco- 
polis ; the inundation of the Nile, b.c. 198; the chastisement 
of the revolters; the coronation of the King at Memphis, 
B.C. 196; and the issue of the decree itself the following 
day. 

Between the Egyptian and Elgin Halls are a series of 
galleries filled with Assyrian Antiquities, from Nimroud, 
Koyunjik, Khorsahdd, &c., acquired for this country by the 
exertions of Mr. Layard, Colonel Rawlinson, Mr. Loftus, 
and Mr. Rassam; the most interesting series in Europe 
of statues, &c., brought from ancient Nineveh, the latest not 
more modern than 700 b.c. The sculptured slabs lining the 
walls as they did in the palace of the Assyrian king. These 
represent the wars and conquests, battles and sieges, lion 
hunts, &c,, of the Assyrian monarchs, also the construction 
of the very palace in which these marbles were found, the 
raising of the mound, and the planting on them of the 
colossal human-headed winged lions and bulls now deposited 
in the British Museum. Here may be seen the Fish-god 
(Dagon)—the Eagle-headed god (Nisroch), In a hall on the 
sunk floor are placed the most remarkable bas-reliefs, repre¬ 
senting the siege and destruction of Lachish by Sennacherib, 
as described in the Bible. Sennacherib himself is seen on 
his throne, with Jewish captives before him. Observe — 


154 XIX.—ASSYRIAN MARBLES—ELGIN MARBLES. 


Colossal statues of Human-headed Lions, and Bulls. In the 
glass cases are bronze wrought dishes of finest workmanship, 
in fact the plate chest of the King of Assyria; a series of 
Lion weights, with Phoenician characters; elaborate carved 
Iv(n'ies; part of decorations of a throne of bronze; arms, 
armour, iron, bronze, and flint weapons, arrows, saws, swords; 
terra-cotta cylinders, and tiles, covered witli arrow-head cha¬ 
racters, being records of the reigns of Tiglath Pileser, Sar- 
gon, Sennacherib, Esarhaddon, Sardanapalus, deciphered by 
Itawlinson and others. The Nimroud Obelisk, covered with 
small highly-finished bas-reliefs, with arrow-headed inscrip¬ 
tions, representing a conquered nation bearing tribute, 
animals, &c., to the king of Assyria, is one of the most 
curious objects. There are a great many Phoenician inscrip¬ 
tions, 50 Punic, from Carthage, very rare. 

The glory of the collections in the British Museum are 
those unequalled works of the best age of Greek sculpture, 
executed, without doubt, by Phidias and his scholars, 
known as The Elgin Marbles, from the Earl of Elgin, Am¬ 
bassador to the Porte, who, in 1801, obtained firmans for 
their removal to England, Kos. 1 to 160, from the Parthenon 
at Athens. But before proceeding to examine these marbles, 
the visitor will do well to inspect the two models of the 
Parthenon restored, and the Parthenon after the Venetian 
bombardment, in 1687. These, along with “ The Capital and 
a piece of the Shaft of one of the Doric Columns of the 
Parthenon,” will give a pretty complete notion of what the 
Parthenon was like. The Marbles are of four kinds;—1. 
Statues in the East Pediment; 2. Statues in the West Pedi¬ 
ment ; 3, The Metopes or groups which occupied the square 
intervals between the raised tablets or triglyphs of the 
frieze; 4, The Frieze. The marbles of the two Pediments 
are on stages above the floor of the Saloon. 



91 . 92 . 93 . 94 . 95 . 96 . 97 . 98 


91. Upper part of the figure of Hyperion rising out of the 
Sea. His arms are stretched forward, in the act of holding 
the reins of his coursers. 92. Heads of two of the Horses 
belonging to the Car of Hyperion. 93. Theseus. 

“ The Theseus is a work of the first order; but the surface is corroded 




XIX.—ELGIN MARBLES. 


155 

by the weather. The head is in that impaired state that I cannot give 
an opinion upon it; and the limbs are mutilated. I prefer it to the 
Apollo Belvidere, which, I believe, to be only a copy. It has more ideal 
beauty than any male statue 1 know.”—i'7ax?»a«. 

94. Group of two Goddesses (Ceres and Proserpine) seated. 

95. Statue of Iris, the messenger of Juno. She is repre¬ 
sented in quick motion, as if about to communicate to 
distant regions the birth of Minerva. 96. A Torso of Vic¬ 
tory. 97. A group of the three Fates. 98. Head of a 
Horse (very fine) from the Car of Night. 


West Pedim ent, 

Representing the Contest of Minerva 
and Neptune for the Guardianship of Attica. 


99 . 100 . 101 . 102 . 103 . 104 . 105 . 106 

99. The Ilissus (statue of a river-god, and, after the Theseus* 
the finest in the collection). 100. Torso of a male figure, 
supposed to be that of Cecrops, the founder of Athens. 
101. Upper part of the head of Minerva, originally covered 
with a bronze helmet, as appears from the holes by whicli 
it was fastened to the marble. 102. A portion of the chest 
of the same statue. 103. Upper part of the Torso of Nep¬ 
tune, 104. Another fragment of the statue of Minerva. 
105. The Torso of Victoria Apteros : the goddess was 
represented driving the Car of Minerva, to receive her 
into it, after her successful contest with Neptune, 106. 
Fragment of a group which originally consisted of Latona, 
with her two children, Apollo and Diana. The Metopes 
(1—16, bas-reliefs let into the wall) represent the battle of 
the Centaurs and Lapithse. The originals are 15 in num¬ 
ber : the 16th (No. 9) is a cast from the original in the 
Eoyal Museum at Paris. The Frieze (17—90, a series of bas- 
reliefs, which ran round the exterior frieze of the Celia of 
the Parthenon) represents the solemn procession called the 
Panathenaea, which took place at Athens, every six years, in 
honour of Minerva, East End (17—24), Nos. 20 and 23 are 
casts. The original of 23 is in the Koyal Museum at Paris. 
North End, Nos. 25—46; West End, Nos. 47—61; all but 47 
are casts; the originals destroyed. Here is a noble head of 
AEsculapius from the Blacas Collection. 

“We possess in England the most precious examples of Grecian 
Art. The horses of the Frieze in the Elgin Collection appear to live and 



156 


XIX.—PHIGALIAN MARBLES. 


move, to roll their eyes, to gallop, prance, and curvet. The veins of 
their faces and legs seem distended with circulation; in them are 
distinguished the hardness and decision of bony forms, from the elas¬ 
ticity of tendon and the softness of flesh. The beholder is charmed with 
the deer-like lightness and elegance of their make; and although the 
relief is not above an inch from the back ground, and they are so much 
smaller than nature, we can scarcely suffer reason to persuade us they 
are not alive.”— Flaxman. 

Tlie earliest specimens of Greek art are the statues from 
the Sacred Way at a female figure from Rhamuus, 

and a small Apollo. 

PMgalian Marbles. —23 bas-reliefs, found in the ruins of 
the Temple of Apollo Epicurius, built by Ictinus, an architect 
contemporary with Pericles, near the ancient city of Phigalia 
in Arcadia. 1 to 11 represent the Battle of the Centaurs 
and Lapithae. 12 to 23, the Battle of the Greeks and Ama¬ 
zons. JSgina Marbles. —Casts of two groups which filled 
the pediments at the E. and W. Ends of the Temple of 
Jupiter Panhellenius, in the island of iEgina. The subject 
of the W. pediment is the contest between the Greeks and 
Trojans for the body of Patroclus. 

Marbles from Halicarnassus. —11 bas-reliefs, brought to 
England, 1846-58, from Bodroum, in Asia Minoi', the ancient 
Halicarnassus, and presented to the British Museum by Sir 
Stratford Canning. To these have been added the products 
of excavations made by Charles Newton, who ascertained the 
site and laid open the foundations of the Mausoleum or 
sepulchre, built in the 4th year of the 106th Olympiad, b.c. 
357, by Artemisia, Queen of Caria, in honour of her husband. 
King Mausolus. The bas-reliefs were built into the faces of 
the walls of a fortress built by the knights of Rhodes, circ. 
1400, at the entrance of the harbour. The story I'epresents 
a combat of Amazons and Greek warriors. The dignified 
colossal draped statue, supposed to be Mausolus himself, was 
broken into 65 pieces, now united; along with it parts of 
the wheels of his chariot and of the colossal horses, which 
drew it, and noble lions. 

In 1864 a portion of the Farnese Marbles was purchased 
for 4000Z. from the King of Naples; of the Greek statues, 
the Mercury and the Diadumenos, or Athlete binding a fillet 
round his head, deserve especial attention; the last is the 
only copy of a famous work of Polycletus. 

Passing through the great Egyptian Halls, you reach a 
staircase lined wdth Egyptian papyri MSS., leading to a 
suite of rooms, on the upper floor, {See plan, p. 166). In 
20 and 21 are placed the Minor Objects of Egyptian Antiquity, 


XIX.—EGYPTIAN AND ETRUSCAN ROOMS. 


157 


in glass cases,—Deities; Sacred Animals; small Statues; 
Household Furniture ; objects of Dress and Toilette; Jewels, 
Vases, Lamps, &c ,; Bowls, Cups, &c.; Vases of Bronze, Agri¬ 
cultural Implements, Viands, &c.; Fragments of Tombs, Wea¬ 
pons, &c.; Inscxiptions; Instruments of Writing, Painting, &c.; 
Baskets, Tools, Musical Instruments, Children’s Playthings. 
Animal Mummies, Human Mummies, Cofi&ns, Amulets, Sepul¬ 
chral Ornaments, &c., many of the greatest curiosity, and 
exhibiting the various modes of embalming practised by 
the Egyptians, and the various degrees of care and splen¬ 
dour expended on the bodies of diflfei’ent ranks. Obse)'ve 
—Models of Egyptian Boats; Egyptian Wig and Box; Model 
of a House, &c.; Stand with Cooked Waterfowl ; Coffin and 
bones of Mycerinus, who lived 100 years before Abraham, 
from the 3rd Pyramid. 

22 and 23. Vases and Etruscan Rooms, contain a collection 
of vases discovered in Italy, and known as Etruscan, or Graeco- 
Italian, beautifully painted. It is arranged chronologically, 
and according to the localities in which the several antiquities 
were found. Observe, in cases 1 to 5, Vases of heavy black 
ware, some with figures upon them in bas-relief, and princi¬ 
pally found at Cervetri or Caere—in cases 6 and 7 the 
Nolan-Egyptian or Phoenician Vases, with pale backgrounds 
and figures in a deep reddish maroon colour, chiefly of 
animals. In cases 8 to 19 early Vases from Vulci, Canino, 
and the Ponte d^lla Badia, to the north of Kome, \vith 
black figures upon red or orange backgrounds, the sub¬ 
jects of these are generally mythological. The vases in 
Cases 20 to 30, executed with more care and finish, are for 
the most part from Canino and Nola. Those in the centre 
of the room, Cases 31 to 55, are of a later style, and chiefly 
from the province of the Basilicata, to the south of Rome ; 
their subjects are principally relative to Bacchus. Cases 36 
to 51 contain Vases from Apulia, resembling in their colour 
and treatment those of Nola. Cases 56 to 60 are filled with 
terra-cottas, principally of Etruscan workmanship. The spe¬ 
cimens of Etruscan Jewellery, necklaces, armlets, wreaths 
of gold, bronze helmets, armour, &c., should not be passed 
unnoticed. Over the cases are several copies of paintings 
from the walls of Etrascan Tombs at Tarquinii and Corneto. 

The bequest of Sir Wm. Temple, minister at Naples (d. 
1856), of Antiquities chiefly found at Pompeii, and other 
parts of Magna Grsocia, includes many fine antiques, bronzes, 
vases, some vei’y large ones, also a celebrated rhytou in the 
form of a mule’s head, glass, armour, wall paintings, &c. 

24. Bronze Room, chiefly occupied with the collections of 


158 XIX.—BRITISH MUSEUM—ANTIQUITIES—LIBRARY. 


Hamilton, Townley, Payne, Kniglit, &c. Observe —4 precious 
bas-reliefs from Paramytbia, in Epirus. Fragments of a 
Grecian cuii’ass, dug up on the banks of the Siris, in Magna 
Grsecia, known as the ‘^Bronzes of Siris,” of the very finest 
workmanship. Figures of gods and heroes in order; bronze 
mirroi-s, ornaments, furniture, keys, weights, knives, spoons, 
styles (for writing), Greek, Etruscan, and Roman. Silver 
bas-relief, part of an Etruscan chariot, found at Perugia. 
Two bronze helmets found at Olympia, one dedicated to 
Jupiter by Hiero, tyi’ant of Syracuse, the other by the 
people of Argos, out of spoils taken from their enemies. 

Certain collections—such as coins, medals, gems—not 
publicly exhibited may be seen by artists and connoisseurs 
by special permission. 

The Barheiini or Portland Vase (9| inches), discovered in 
a tomb 3 m. from Rome, on the road to Frascati (1623-44). 
Sir William Hamilton bought it at the sale of the Bai-berini 
Library, and subsequently sold it to the Duchess of Poi’t- 
land (for 10290. It is still the property of the Duke of 
Portland. The ground on which the figures are wrought 
is of a dark amethystine blue—semi-transparent; but it has 
not as yet been cleaidy ascertained what the figures represent. 
This unique vase was smashed to pieces, 7th of Feb., 1845, 
by a madman, but has since been wonderfully restored, con¬ 
sidering the number of fragments into which it was broken. 

Medal Room. —The Greek coins arc arranged in geogra¬ 
phical order; the Roman in chronological; and the Anglo- 
Saxon, English, Anglo-Gallic, Scotch, and Irish coins, and 
likewise the coins of foreign nations, according to the 
respective countries to which the coins belong; those of 
each country being kept separate. Oems and Cameos. —In 
these objects the Museum has been greatly enriched by the 
JBlacas Collection (cost 48,000?.) and by that of the Rev. 
Greg. Rhodes, it includes the choicest specimens of the once 
famous Cabinets of Townley, Castellani, and many in their 
original settings. Among these the head of Augustus, Si- 
inches long; ancient gold and silver jewellery from Nineveh, 
Babylon, Etruria; Celtic torques and armlets of gold found 
in England. 

25.— BntisTi and Mediaeval Room, devoted to antiquities 
found in Great Britain and Ireland, beginning with celts (stone 
axes), flint knives, and arrow-heads, disks or whorls of jet of 
Kimmeridge coal, and other substances used to twirl the 
spindle; bronze celts, daggers, knives; bronze shields, 
found in the Isis and the Thames; horse trappings, &c., of 
bronze, some enamelled. Roman antiquities found in London 
and elsewhere. Mediaeval. Asti^labes and watches, enamels; 


XIX.—BRITISH MUSEUM LIBRARY. 


159 


pottery and porcelain of Chelsea, Bow, Derby, &c.; Wedge- 
wood ware. The Mediaeval Collection includes the sword of 
state of the Earldom of Chester, made for Edward V. when 
Px’ince of Wales; the signet ring of Mary, Queen of Scots; 
and some interesting fragments of the fresco decorations 
in old St. Stephen’s Chapel at Westminster. Mr. Slade’s 
Bequest of Ancient Glass —Greek, Itoman, Early Christian 
(from the Catacombs), B^^zantine, Venetian, German, and 
other glass vessels—was added 1869. 

The Library of Pnnted Boohs exceeds 700,000 volumes, 
and about 75,000 volumes are added yearly. Compared 
Yuth the great public libi*aiies on the Continent, it ranks 
second to none except the Imperial library at Paris. It con¬ 
tains twice as many Amencan hooTcs as any library in the 
United States; also 1650 copies of the Bible in various edi¬ 
tions and languages, and more than 12,000 pamphlets, &c,, 
relating to the French Revolutions : such as does not exist in 
France. The Hebrew books form the largest collection in 
the world. Here is the library of the lUngs of England, 
presented to the nation by George II., containing exquisite 
examples of books bound in eihbroidered velvet for Queen 
Elizabeth, James I., Charles I., &c. George III.’s Library, 
consisting of upwards of 80,000 volumes, and kept in 
a separate hall, the finest in the building, was given to the 
nation by George IV,, in 1823, and is said to have cost 
130,000?. It is one of the most noble libraries known, 
remarkable not only for the judicious selection of the 
works, and the discriminating choice of the editions, but 
for the bibliographical peculiarities and mrity of the copies. 

Book Rarities: the Mazarine Bible, the earliest printed 
book known, supposed to have issued from the press of 
Gutenberg and Fust, at Mentz, about 1455—it is in Latin 
and on vellum; the first printed Psalter, in Latin, on 
vellum—Mentz, Fust and Schoeffer, 1457; the first book 
printed with a date; .^sop’s Fables—Milan, about 1480 ; 
the first edition of the first Greek classic printed: the 
first edition of Homer—Florence, 1488; formerly in the 
possession of the historian De Thou: Virgil—printed 
at Venice, by Aldus, in 1501; on vellum: the first book 
printed in Italic types; and the earliest attempt to pro¬ 
duce cheap books:—it belonged to the Gonzaga family, 
and carries the autographs of the two Cardinals Ippolito and 
Ercole, as well as that of Vincenzo Gonzaga, Duke of Mantua. 
The room to your right on entering from the hall contains the 
Grenville Library, a collection of 20,240 volumes, bequeathed to 
the nation by the Right Hon. Thomas Grenville, and said to 
have cost upwards of 54,000?. Other liberal donors have 


160 


XIX.—READING ROOM. 


been Rev. C. M, Cracherode, David Garrick, Sir Joseph 
Banks, &c. 

The entrance to the Reading Rooms directly faces you 
as you pass under the great portico into the Hall of the 
Museum. 

The Reading Rooms and Librai'ies were built in com¬ 
pliance with a happy suggestion of Mr. Panizzi—in the vacant 
space formed by the inner quadrangle of the Museum, thus 
economising ground and money, and securing the fittest 
situation, close to the apartments in which the books are 
deposited. This was completed in three years, at a cost of 
150,000Z.—Sidney Smirke being architect, and Messrs. Baker 
and Fielder builders—and opened 1857. The Reading Room 
is circular, surmounted by an elegant dome, 140 feet in 
diameter (only two feet less than the Pantheon, and one 
foot more than St. Peter’s, Rome), and 106 feet high. 
It is constructed chiefly of iron, by which much space 
is saved, with brick arches between the main ribs, sup¬ 
ported by 20 iron piers. It can receive with ease and 
comfoii;, at one time, 300 readers, each being provided with 
a separate desk. The general arrangements are sufficiently 
explained in the Plan. The whole is thoroughly warmed 
and ventilated, and the floors are laid with Kamptulikon, 
to prevent noise and reverberation. There are 35 reading 
tables, and two are set apart for the exclusive use of ladies. 

The Book-presses under the gallery are filled with a large 
library of reference for the use of the I’eaders, comprising 
most of the standard works on the various branches of 
learning, and an extensive collection of dictionaries of all 
lauguages, biographical works, encyclopaedias, pazdiamentary 
histories, topographical works, &c., &c. These books, which 
are about 20,000 in number, the readers can consult at 
pleasure without filling up tickets for them. 

Having consulted the catalogue which extends to 977 MS. 
volumes, and found the title of the book you require, you 
transcribe the title, on a printed form given below, to be 
found near the catalogues, from whence you derive your 
references. 


Press Mark. 

Title of the Work wanted. 

Size. 

Place. 

Date. 







(Date) -(Signature) 

Please to restore each volume of the Catalogue to its place, as soon as 
done with. 












XIX.—READING ROOM.—MANUSCRIPTS. 


161 


READERS ARE PARTICULARLY REQUESTED 

1. Not to ask for more than one wm-h on the same ticket. 

2. To transcribe literally from the Catalogues the title of the Work 

wanted. 

3. To write in a plain clear hand, in order to avoid delay and 

mistakes. 

4. Before leaving the Room, to return the books to an attendant, and 

to obtain the corresponding ticket, the Reader being respon¬ 
sible FOR THE Books so long as the Ticket remains 
uncancelled. 

W.R.—Readers are, under no circumstances, to take any Book or MS. 
out of the Reading Rooms. 

The tickets for Printed Books are on white paper; for MSS. 
on green paper. 

Manuscripts .—The manusciipts in the Museum are divided 
under several heads, of which the following are the chief:— 
the Cotton MSS.; the Harleian MSS.; the Lansdowne MSS. ; 
the Royal MSS.; the Sloane and Birch MSS.; the Amndel 
MSS.; the Burney, Hargrave, and a large and Miscellaneous 
collection of “Additional MSS.” in number about 30,000. 
The rarest MSS. are entitled “ Select,” and can only be seen 
and examined in the presence of an attendant. The contents 
of two cases alone are valued at above a quarter of a million. 
Among the more remarkable we may mention:—Codex 
Alexandrinus, a MS. of Gospels of 4th or 5th century, given 
to Charles I. by the Patriarch of Alexandria. Copy of the 
Gospels in Latin (Cotton MSS., Tibei’ius A. II., the only un¬ 
doubted relic of the ancient regalia of England), sent over to 
Athelstane by his brother-in-law the emperor Otho, between 
936 and 940, given by Athelstane to the metropolitan church 
of Canterbury, and borrowed of Sir Robert Cotton to be used 
at the coronation of Charles I. The “Book of St. Cuthbert” 
or “ Durham Book,” a copy of the Gospels in Latin, written 
in the seventh century by Eadfrith, Bishop of Lindisfarne, 
and illuminated by Athelwald, the succeeding Bishop. The 
Bible, said to have been written by Alcuin for Charlemagne. 
The identical copy of Guiar des Moulix’s version of Pierre le 
Mangeur’s Biblical History, which was found in the tent of 
John, King of France, at the battle of Poictiers. MS. of 
Cicero’s translation of the Astronomical Poem of Aratus. An 
Anglo-Saxon MS. of the ninth century. The Bedford Missal, 
executed for the Regent Duke of Bedford, brother of Henry V. 
Psalter written for Henry VI. Le Roman de Rou (Harl. 
MS. 4425). Henry VIII.’s Psalter, containing Portraits 
of Himself and Will Somers. Lady JaneGrey’s Prayer Book. 
Queen Elizabeth’s Prayer Book, written in a print-hand; the 
cover is her own needlework. Harl. MS. (7334), supposed 

M 


KCY#kL LlG??AR 



A 

B 

C 

1 ) 


Superintendent. 
Catalogue Tables. 
Readers’ Tables. 
Access for Attendants. 


PLAN OP READING-ROOM, BRITISH MUSEUM. ■* 

K Gentlemen’s Cloak-Room. 
L For Gentlemen. 

M Umbrella Room. 


E Entrance from Royal Library. 
F Entrance from North Library. 
G For Registration of Copyrights. 
H Ladies’ Cloak-Room. 

J Attendants’ Room. 


N .Assistants’Room. 











































































































































































































































































XIX.—PRINT ROOM—ZOOLOGY. 


163 


to bo the best MS. of Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales. Portrait 
of Chaucer, by Occleve (from which Vertuo made his engrav- 
ing). Froissart’s Chronicles, with many curious illustrations 
—often engraved. Matthew Paris, illuminated. A volume 
of Hours executed circ. 1490, by a Flemish Artist (Hemme- 
linck ?), for Philip the Fair, of Castile, or for his wife Joanna, 
mother of the Emperor Charles V. Cai’te Blanche which 
Prince Charles (Charles II,) sent to Parliament to save his 
father’s life. Oliver Cromwell’s Letter to the Speaker, 
desci'ibing the Battle of Naseby. Milton’s assignment of 
“Paradise Lost” to Simmonds the bookseller for 15Z.,* Dryden’s 
assignment to Tonson of his translation of Virgil. Original 
MS. of Pope’s Homer, written on the backs of letters. Stow’s 
collections for his Annals and his Survey of London. 317 
vols. of Syriac MSS., obtained from Egyptian monasteries, 
near the Natron Lakes. 

Pnnt Room. — Drawings, d;c .—A small, but interesting, and 
valuable, collection, containing specimens of Fra Beato Ange¬ 
lico, Fra Filippo Lippi, D. Ghirlandajo, P. Perugino, Leo¬ 
nardo da Vinci, Fra Bartolommeo, Raphael, Mich. Angelo, 
Giovanni Bellini, Titian, and Correggio—of Albert Durer, 
Hans Holbein, Rembrandt, Rubens, Van Dyck, Backhuysen, 
A. Ostade, &c. Niellos of the rarest kind—in silver—with 
300 impressions on sulphur and paper from niellos. 

Observe .—Impression in sulphur of the famous Pax of Maso 
Finiguerra, cost 250 guineas. Silver Pax by the same master. 
Two unique niellos of Leon, da Vinci. Marvellous Carving in 
soapstone, in high relief, by Albert Durer (dated 1510), repre¬ 
senting the Birth of John the Baptist. Prints .—Marc Antonio’s 
(fine). Lucas van Leyden’s (fine), Albert Diirer’s (fine). 
Rembrandt’s (in 8 volumes, the finest known). Van Dyck 
etchings (good). Early Italian School (numerous and fine). 
Dutch etchings (the Sheepshanks collection, containing 
Waterloo, Berghem, P. Potter, A. Ostade, &c., the finest 
known). Works of Sir Jos. Reynolds (not all proofs). 
Raphael Morghen, Faithorne (in 5 volumes, very fine). 
Hogarth (good). Crowle’s collections to illustrate Pennant’s 
London (cost 7000^.). Works of Strange, Woollett and Sharp 
(good). Stothard, in 4 volumes (fine). 

On a range of stands in the Kin^s Library are framed 
some of the choicest specimens of drawings and engravings 
of all schools. Art will be removed to S. Kensington as 
soon as a proper building is prepared for them. 

The Collections of Natural History are arranged in galleries 
on the first floor of the buildings, and are reached from the 
entrance-hall by ascending the great staircase. 

M 2 


164 


XIX.~BRITISH MUSEUM—ZOOLOGY. 


Rooms 1, 2, 3, and 4.— Zoology .—This collection is supe¬ 
rior to that at Berlin, and inferior only to that in the Museum 
at Paris, In a case at the head of the stairs is a huge 
Gorilla, with its skeleton nearly 6 ft. high, shot by Mons. Du 
Chaillu; the largest specimen in Europe; also his wife and 
family. Mammalia Saloon .—In the wall-cases are specimens 
of Rapacious and Hoofed Beasts; and over the cases, the 


NORTH GALLERY. 

11 TO 16 FOSSILS AND MINEEAL8. 



E. 


different kinds of Seals, Manatees, and Porpoises; and on 
the floor are placed the larger hoofed beasts, too large to 
be arranged in their proper places in the cases. Here, on 
the floor, is the Wild Ox from Chillingham Park, Northum¬ 
berland. Eastern Zoological Gallery .—The wall-cases contain 
the collection of Birds; the smaller table-cases in each recess 
contain birds’ Eggs, arranged in the same series as the birds ; 
the larger table-cases, in the centre of the room, contain the 
collection of Shells of Molluscous Animals; and on the top 
of the wall-cases is a series of Horns of hoofed quadrupeds. 
Here, among the Wading Birds (Case 108), is the foot of the 




















XIX.—MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY. 


165 


Dodo, a bird now extinct, only known by a few scanty 
remains, and by a painting here preserved, drawn, it is said, 
from a living bird brought from the Mauritius. 

Eooms 11 to 16.— Mineralog7j and Geology, (in the N. 
Gallery).—The system adopted for the arrangement of the 
minerals, Avith occasional slight deviations, is that of Berzelius. 
The detail of this arrangement is pai-tly supplied by the 
running titles at the outsides of the glass cases, and by the 
labels within them. Observe (in the Class of Native Iron, 
one of the largest collections known of meteoric stones or 
substances Avhich have fallen from the sky, placed in chro¬ 
nological order).—The oldest a fragment of stone which fell 
at Ensisheim, in Alsace, Nov. 7th, 1492, when the Empr. 
Maximilian was on the point of engaging Avith the French 
army: weighs 270 lb.;—meteorite from Melbourne, Aus¬ 
tralia : Aveighs 34 tons !—one of the many stones which fell 
(July 3rd, 1753) at Plaun, in Bohemia, and Avhich contam 
a great proportion of iron; —specimens of those that were 
seen to fall at Barbotan, at Roquefort, and at Juliac, July 
24th, 1790 ;—one of a dozen stones that fell at Sienna, Jan. 
16th, 1794;—huge metallic block from Buenos Ayres, Aveighs 
'1400 lbs.;—stone, weighing 56 lb., which fell near Wold 
Cottage, in the parish of Thwihg, Yorkshu’e, Dec. 13th, 1795 ; 
fragment of a stone of 20 lb., which fell at Sales, near Ville- 
franche. Dept, du Rhone, 1798; stone which fell at Parnallee, 
Madras, Feb. 28, 1857. Observe, in Case 20, Dr. Dee’s Magic 
Show-stone. 

Fossil Organic Remains in the North Gallery. Obs. I. 
Fossil plants, sea-AA’-eeds; calamites, &c., from the coal;—Sili- 
cified palm-trees, tropical finiits, avoocI bored by the Ship- 
Avorm;—Cycas (called petrified crows’ nests), from I. of Port¬ 
land;—Fossil footmarks of animals. II. Extensive collec¬ 
tion of Fossil Fish from the chalk, Solenhofen Monte Bolca; 
The Silurian and Devonian rocks, coal, and old red sandstone. 
III. and IV. Reptiles. —Ichthyosaurus (fish-lizard); Plesio¬ 
saurus and Scelidosaurus (unique); Crocodiliana from the 
lias of Wliitby, from Sheppey, and the Sewalik Hills; the 
* Archaeopteryx (unique ), the oldest known fossil bird I 
from the oolite of Solenhofen, Avith long lizard-like tail, bear¬ 
ing a pair of feathers in each joint; the Iguanodon (colossal 
land lizard); Hylaeosaurus and Deinosaurus, from Tilgate 
Forest (Mantells). V. Mammalian Remains .—The fossil Fox, 
of CEhningen, the jaAv-bones from Stonesfield slate, Oxford¬ 
shire ; the gigantic Marsupials of Australia; the Sivatherium, 
stag-like animal Avith proboscis. Mastodon and Elephant, from 
the Sewalik Hills in India, found by Major Cautiy and Dr. 
Falconer; Dinornis ; gigantic Moas (ostrich-like birds), from 


166 


XIX.—BRITISH MUSEUM. 


New Zealand; skeleton, nearly perfect, of the Dodo, from 
Mauritius. In the centre of Eoom 15, is a complete skeleton 
of the large extinct Elk, met with in the bogs of Ireland, and 
the Isle of Man (Ceiwus megaceros and C. giganteus). In 
Room 16, is the entire skeleton of the American Mastodon 
{Mastodon Ohioticus), and suite of separate bones and teeth 
of the same animal: the jaws, tusks, molar teeth and other 
osseous paints of Elephas primigenius, the Siberian Mammoth: 
the crania and other parts of extinct Indian Elephants. 
Megatherium, or extinct sloth, from Buenos Ayres ; Glypto- 
don, or extinct armadillo, the shell measui’ed 12 ft. in length. 
At the W. end of the same room is the fossil human skeleton 
from Guadaloupe, embedded in a limestone which is in pro¬ 
cess of formation at the present day. A case filled with 
remains of man and animals from a cave at Bmniquel, dept, 
of Aveyron, France ; human skulls enclosed in tufas; flint 
implement; bones of reindeer and other animals fashioned 
by the flint; jaws and other bones of ox, split open for ex¬ 
tracting the marrow. 

Northei'n Zoological Gallery, Room 6.—The wall-cases con¬ 
tain a series of the Skulls of the lai’ger Mammalia, to illus- 
ti’ate the charactera of the families and genera; of the Nests 
of Birds, arbours of the two species of Bower Bird; the one 
ornamented with fresh water shells and bones, and the other 
with feathers and land shells, &c. The tahle-cases :—the 
tubes of Annulose Animals, the casts of the interior cavities 
of Shells, and various specimens of shells, illustrative of the 
diseases and malformation of those animals. Room 7.—The 
wall-cases contain the collection of Reptiles and Batrachian 
Animals, preserved dry and in spirits; and the table-cases 
the first part of the collection of the hai’d pai’t of Radiated 
Animals, including Sea Eggs, Sea Stai’s, and Encrinites. 
Room 8.—The wall cases contain the Handed and Glii’ine 
Mammalia, and the table-cases the different kinds of Corals. 
Room 9.—The wall-cases contain the collection of Fish, and 
the table-cases a few specimens of Annulose Animals, to ex¬ 
hibit their systematic arrangement. 

The collection of Insects and Crustacea are preserved in 
cabinets. They may be seen by persons wishing to consult 
them for the purpose of study (by application to the Keeper 
of the Zoological Collection) every Tuesday and Thursday*. 
Apply two days previous. Room 10.—The wall-cases contain 
the Molluscous and Radiated Animals in spirits. Over the 
wall-cases is a very large Wasps’ Nest from India; and some 
Neptune’s Cups—a kind of sponge—from Singapore. Table 
cases: —Sponges of different kinds, showing their various 


XIX.—BRITISH MUSEUM—NATIONAL GALLERY. 167 


forms and structure, and some preserved in flint of the 
same character. 

Rooms 17, 18— TJie Botanical Collection is very large, and 
consists principally of the Ilet'haria of Sir Joseph Banks and 
Mr. Robert Brown; 300 vols. of plants, collected by Sir 
Hans Sloane; the Dutch Hortus ClifiFortianus, described by 
Linnseus himself; Burmann’s Ceylon Plants, 

Portraits —(on the walls of the E. Zoological Gallery)—116 in 
number, and not very good. A few, however, deserve to be 
mentioned:—Vesalius, by Sir Antonio More. Captain William 
Dampier, by Murray (both from the Sloane Collection). Sir 
Robert Cotton, the founder of the Cottonian Library. Sir 
William Cotton, his son, Robert, Earl of Oxford, and Edward, 
Earl of Oxford (both presented by the Duchess Dowager of 
Portland). Humphrey Wanley. George Vertue (presented 
by his widow). Sir Hans Sloane, half-length, by Slaughter. 
Dr. Birch. Andrew Marvell. Alexander Pope. Matthew 
Prior, by Hudson, from an original by Richardson. Oliver 
Cromwell, by Walker (bequeathed, 1784, by Sir Robert 
Rich, Bart., to whose great-grandfather, Nathaniel Rich, 
Esq., then serving as a Colonel of Horse in the Parlia- 
mentaiy Anny, it was presented by Cromwell himself). 
Mary Davis, an inhabitant of Great Saughall in Cheshire, 
taken 1668, ‘‘cetatis 74:” (at the age of 28 an excrescence 
gi'ew upon her head, like a wen, which continued 30 years, 
and then grew into two horns, one of which the profile 
represents). Thomas Britton, the m\isical small-coal-man, 
“ cetafis 61, 1703,” by /. Woolaston. Miscellaneous Curiosities. 
—A gold snuff-box set with diamonds, and ornamented with 
a miniature portrait of Napoleon, by whom it was presented, 
in 1815, to the late Hon. Mrs. Darner. Another, less hand¬ 
some, presented by Napoleon to Lady Holland. 

The NATIONAL GALLERY, of paintings of all schools, 
occupies the N. side of Trafalgar-square, the site of the 
King’s Mews. The National Gallery was founded in 1824, 
and the present building erected, 1832-38, from the designs 
of W. Wilkins, R.A., at a cost of 96,000^. The columns of 
the portico were those of Carlton House. The Royal Academy 
was removed from the E. half of the building to Burlington 
Gardens, 1869, and the National Gallery retains its position. 
An entirely new edifice is projected, to be extended over the 
site of the Workhouse behind, which is bought for 67,000?. 

The National Gallery is open on Monday, Tues., Wed., and 
Sat. to the public; on Thurs. and Fri. to artists; from 10 
till 5 from Nov. to April,—and from 10 till 6 in May, June, 


168 


XIX.—NATIONAL GALLERY. 



July, August, and the first two 
weeks of September. The Gallery 
is wholly closed during the last 
two weeks of September and the 
month of October. 

The National Gallery originated 
in the purchase by Government, in 
1824, of Mr. Angei’stein’s collection 
of 38 pictures for 57,000Z. In 1826, 
Sir Geo. Beaumont gave 16 pictures, 
valued at 7500 guineas. Important 
bequests by the Rev. W. Holwell 
Carr, Lord Farnborough, and others, 
followed, independently of the Tur¬ 
ner bequest and of Mr. Vernon’s no¬ 
ble gift of 162 works of the English 
school. Though inferior in extent 
to the six great galleries on the 
Continent, at the present moment 
it is scarcely second to any in the 
value and choiceness of the works 
it contains, and in the number of 
paintings authenticated by the de¬ 
scriptions of Vasari and other con¬ 
temporary authorities. Down to 
1861 the nation expended in the 
purchase of 234 pictures, 104,505^.; 
259 pictures have been given, and 
240 bequeathed. The National Gal¬ 
lery owes much of its actual pre¬ 
eminence to the very important ac¬ 
cessions it obtained during the ad¬ 
ministration of the late Sir Charles 
Eastlake; especially in works of t>he 
Italian Schools, some of them from 
the Lombardi and Beaucousin Gal¬ 
leries. The total number of pic¬ 
tures is about 880—but many of 
these are exhibited at S. Kensing¬ 
ton from want of room here. Mr. 
Wornum’s is the best catalogue of 
the pietures, and may be had in the 
Gallery. Below are enumerated some 
of the best pictures by the greatest 
masters. 

The pictures have been most 




















XIX.—NATIONAL GALLERY. 


169 


satisfactorily re-arranged by Mr. Boxall since the removal 
of the Koyal Academy from Ti’afalgar Square in 1869, in 
eleven apartments instead of five, and are now displayed, 
without crowding, to the greatest advantage. 

Observe —Room 1, entered directly from the staircase, is 
devoted to the Earliest Efforts of the Italian School, very-^ 
cm'ious but interesting chiefly in an historical point of yiew. 

P. Uccello (a rare master): Battle of St. Egydio.— Cimabue, 565 : 
Madonna and Child with Angels. 

Room 2, Early Italian School. 

Benozzo Gozzoli, 283 : Virgin and Child enthroned, five Saints, men¬ 
tioned by Vasari; the original contract for the painting, 1461, exists.— 
Pellegrino di San Daniels, 773: Virgin and Child enthroned, with 
St. James and St. George.— Pollajuolo, 292: Martyrdom of St. Sebas¬ 
tian, praised by Vasari, and studied by Michael Angelo.— Orgagna, 569- 
578, Coronation of the Virgin by the Saviour, with Angels and twenty- 
four Saints on either side, painted for the Church of St. Pietro Maggiore, 
Florence, and perhaps the finest work of Orgagna in any gallery.— 
Ambrog. Borgonone, 298 : Marriage of St. Catherine ; 779-80, Portraits. 

— Carlo Crivelli : Madonna and Child with SS. Jerome and Sebastian 
(called M. della Rondine from the Swallow introduced in it.— Lor. da 
Credi, 648 : Virgin kneeling to the Infant laid on the ground.— Fra 
Angelico, 663 : Christ with the Banner of the Resurrection, with an 
army of Patriarchs, Saints, and Beati on each side; 266 figures in all, 
“so beautiful,” says Vasari, “that they appear truly to be beings of 
Paradise.”— Filippino Lippi, 293: Virgin and Child: SS. Jerome and 
Dominic in adoration. 

Rooms 3, 4, and 5. Best works of Italian masters of the 
best period, hardly to be matched for excellence in the 
whole of Europe, and nearly all painted within the space of 
60 years. Every picture here deserves study. 

No 1.— Sebastian del Piombo : the Raising of Lazarus. The most 
important Italian painting in England; painted in competition with 
Raphael’s Transfiguration. jMichael Angelo assisted the painter with 
a sketch for the figure of Lazarus, which still exists. It was painted 
for a church at Narbonne and thence came into the Orleans gallery 
(A . 3500 guineas).— Titian : Bacchus and Ariadne; a marvel of harmo¬ 
nious design and richness of colouring. 4. A shepherd adoring the Holy 
Family. 35. Venus and Adonis, from the Colonna Palace. 273. Noli me 
tangere; 636. Portrait of Ariosto.— Correggio, 10 : Mercury teaching 
Cupid to read in the presence of Venus; purchased along with the 
Ecce Homo in Room 4, from the late Marquis of Londonderry for 10,000?. ; 
23. Holy Family (Vierge au Panier) St. Joseph working as a carpenter. 

—Francesco Francia, 179 : Virgin and Child, with two Saints on 
either side, in front the infant St. John; 180. The Entombment, a 
Lunette (Lucca Gallery, 3500?.)— Room 4. Giov. Bellini, 189 : The 
Doge Loredano in his cap and robe; from Beckford collection. 726. The 
Agony in the Garden; background, a view of Jerusalem; 694. St. 
Jerome in his study, a work of marvellous finish and truth ; Virgin and 
Child.— Pietro Perugino : Virgin adoring the Infant; Three Angels 
in the sky; on left St. Michael, on right St. Raphael, Archangels, painted 
for the Certosa at Pavia, purchased from the Duke Melzi, 4009?. — 


170 


XIX.—NATIONAL GALLERY. 


Correggio, 15 : Ecce Homo; Marco Baraiti, Virgin and Child asleep: 
—Paul Veronese, 294: The family of Darius at the feet of Alexander, 
*' The finest work of the master in Italy.” —RusJcin ; from tbe Pisani 
Palace, Venice (14,OOOL). 

Room 5. Smaller Italian Pictures. 

Raphael, 744: The Gaiwagh, or Aldobrandini Holy Family, so 
called from two former iiossessors.'a small picture (9000h). 168. St. 
Catherine of Alexandria, from the Beckford collection (5000?.). 213. 
Vision of a Knight, with Raphael’s origin il sketch (1050?.).— Antonello 
da Messina, 173 : Head of the Saviour. Filippo Lippi, 666 : The An¬ 
nunciation ; And. del Sarto, 690: His own Portrait; Mich. Angelo, 
~ 790;-The Entombment, a sketch of great rarity.— Giorgione, 269: 
A Knight in Armour. 

Room 6. Later Italian and Spanish. 

Murillo, 13: Holy Family (3000?.); 176. Infant St. John and the 
Lamb (2100?.)— Velasquez, 197: Wild Boar hunt, Philip IV. and his 
Court (2200?.); 232. Adoration of the Shepherds.— Salvator Rosa ; A 
Grand Landscape, figures of Mercury and the Woodman (1680?.)— Cana- 
LETTi: Grand Canal, Venice.— Guido, 271: Head of Christ; Susannah 
and the Elders (1260?.)— Ann. Carracci, 9: Christ bearing the Cross 
appearing to St. Peter. 

Room 7. French and German Schools. 

Claude : Noble Landscape; 5. Seaport at Sunset; 6. Cave of Adul- 
1am, Chigi Claude (2705 guineas); 12. Marriage of Isaac and Rebecca; 
14. Seaport, Queen of Sheba (4000?.); 30. Embarkation of St. Ursula. 
In the midst of these Claudes are hung (by direction of his own last 
will) two of J. M. W. Turner’s masterpieces, Sun rising in a Mist over 
the Sea, and Carthage. They will bear the comparison Turner was so 
anxious to challenge.— Martin Schon: Death of the Virgin.—J. A’^an 
Eyck ; 222 and 290. Two Men’s Portraits; 188. An Interior, J. Arnolfini 
and his wife (600 guineas).— Memling, 686: The Virgin and child, small 
figures in a garden.—Nic. Poussin: Bacchanals.— Gasper Poussin: A 
Grand Landscape ; Abraham and Isaac: Land-storm: Dido and A3neas; 
Italian Landscape (F. 700 guineas). 

Room 8, Flemish and Dutch Schools. 

Dierick Bouts, 783: Translation of St. Hubert.— Alp.. Cuyp: Por¬ 
trait of a gentleman; 53. A Sunny Land.scape on the Rhine.—R uben^ 

: Rape of the Sabines; 194. Judgment of Paris (4200?.); 59. Tlie^ 
iTfft^en Serpent ; '56.Trong Landscape including his own Chateau,(,15007y 
'—Rembrandt, 757: Chr ist blessing little children; 775. Old woman’s 
head; Portrait of aTljentleman; 45. AVoman taken in'Aftrtltery.-^^ 
ftuTSDALL; 3. Exquisite Landscape (5250?.).— Van Dyck, 52: Portrait 
of Gevartius ; 50. St. Ambrose refusing the Emperor Theodosius admis¬ 
sion into the church.— De Hooghe : Courtyard of a Dutch house (1300?) 

Room 9—is occupied Avith J. M. W. Turner's early works. 

Fort Roc, Val d’Aosta, an Alpine gorge; 478. A Blacksmith’.s 
Forge in the manner of Wilkie; 499. Decline of Carthage ; 480. Tra¬ 
falgar—Deatli of Nelson, a wonderful representation of a sea-fight, the 
‘ Victory’ between two French ships; 472, Calais Pier, boats in a stomiy 
sea; 476. A Shipwreck; 481. Spithead; 492. A Frosty Morning, in a 
ploughed field; 497. Crossing the Brook. 


XIX.—NATIONAL GALLERY. 


171 


Room 10—is filled with Turner’s later works. 

305. Bay of Baia?; 512. Baice—Caligula’s Bridge; 616. Cliilde Harold; 
—The Fighting T^mdraire towed into her last hevtb; 508. Polyphemus 
and Ulysses; 528. The burial of Wilkie by night;—The Sun of 
Tenice going down;—Van Tromp; 538. Rain, Steam, and Speed; 536. 
Fort Ruysdael. 

Room 11. Select Works of the English Schools. 

§iR_J[osjnu.-REyTfoi,na, 162: The Infant Samuel; 182. Studies of 
.^gels’ heads; 307. The Age ofTnnocence; 79. The Graces, three 
'JaugRTgrs'of Sir W. Montgomery; — Portrait of Lord Heathfield, 
Governor of Gibraltar during the siege; — Poi-trait of William Wind¬ 
ham.— Leslie: — ^ncljo_and the Duchess; — My Uncle Toby and 
AVido w Wadman.— Wilkie, 122 : The Village Festival; 99. The Blind 
Fiddler; 331. T he Newsmoi^er-r^oksTASLE, 150; The Cornfield.— 
Collins, 351: Happy a s a King.— Gainsborough : Orpen, the Parish 
Clerk of BradfordT^ggS. Mrs. Siddons; 789. The Baillie Family; 
80. The Market Cart.—The Watering-Place.— Iiogaeja,:— Marriage 
a la Mode, a series of six pictures, Hogarth’s greatest work, for which 
he received 110 guineas—Mr. Angerstein gave 13811!. for them.— Stewart 
Newton, 353: Yorick and the Grisette.— Stodhabt :—Antony and 
Cleopatra.—W. Mulready :— The Last in; — Crossing the Brook.— 
Eastlake, Sib Charles :—Haidee, Greek Girl.—R. Wilson; 301; 
Italian View. 

In 1871 the National Gallery received an important acces¬ 
sion in the pictures, 72 in number, collected, with great 
judgment, by the 2nd Sir Robt. Peel, including 22 specimens 
of Dutch masters not before represented, in the national 
collection. The price given by Parliament to his son was 
75,0001. They include 3 by Rembrandt; 2 by Ritbens, the well- 
known Chapeau de Paille, (3500 guineas), and the Triumph 
of Silenus, (llOOZ.); 2 by Van DycJc, a Genoese Senator and 
his wife, bought at Genoa by Sir David Wilkie; 7 by D. 
Teniers; 2 by Isaac Ostade, one a Village Scene, very fine; 1 
\)j AdHan Ostade; 1 by Jan Steen; 1 by Terlurg; 2 by 
G. Metzu ; 1 by F. Miens ; 1 by W. Mie^'is ; 1 by G. Romo, 
the Poulterer’s Shop, fine; 3 by Ouyp, a moated ruined Castle, 
very fine; 4 by Hobbema, The Avenue of Middelharnis, 
wonderful, the ducks and geese by Wyntrayik, and the 
figures by Lingelbach ; 2 by He Hooghe; 1 by Paul Potter ; 
3 by Ruysdael; 2 by Backhuysen ; 1 by Berghem ; 1 by Gon¬ 
zales Cogues; 3 by Karel du Jardin; 6 by Wouvermans, one 
a cabinet piece with a white horse; 2 by Vander Heyden ; 
3 by A. Vandervelde, one a Calm, veiy fine; 8 by W. Vander- 
velde; 1 by F. Snyders; 2 by Wynants; 1 by Slingelandt; 
1 by Jan. Lingelbach; 1 by Moucheron and A. Vandervelde; 
3 by Caspar Netscher. The portraits of Dr. Johnson, and of 
Admiral Keppel, are two of the finest works of Sir Joshua 
Reynolds. The drawings by Rubens, which form a portion 
of the Peel collection, are unsurpassed, 





172 


XTX.—SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 


Observe .—In the Hall: Statue of Sir David Wilkie, by 
S. Joseph; Wilkie’s palette is let into the pedestal. Alto- 
relievo, by T. Banks, K.A., Thetis and her Nymphs rising 
from the sea to condole with Achilles on the loss of Patroclus 
(fine). 

SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM, Brompton, beyond 
Brompton Church, 1 mile from Hyde Park Corner, built 
upon the estate purchased with the surplus funds derived 
from the Exhibition of 1851. It is also approached from the 
Kensington Road and from Hj’de Park by Exhibition Road, 
and is very near the S. Kensington station of the Metro- 
pohtan District Railway. (See Railway Map.) 

Admission. —Monday, Tuesday, and Saturday, free; from 
10 a.m. to 10 p.m. (N.R the galleries are lighted at night). 
Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday, students’ days : admis¬ 
sion to public Qd., fx’om 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. There are wait¬ 
ing and refreshment rooms, furnished with lavatories, near 
the entrance. 

This truly national museum of Art, and of Manufactures as 
allied to art, has sprung up in the short space of fifteen years 
to be one of the most considerable and important in Europe. 
It originated, 1852, in a project of the Prince Consort, ably 
carried out by its courageous and persevering director, H. 
Cole, Esq., C. B., supported by the liberality of Parliament. 
Its collections of objects of mediaeval and modern art, partly 
obtained at great cost from all parts of the globe, partly of 
contributions sent on loan by their owners, consist of 
paintings, sculptures, goldsmiths’ work, jewels and enamels, 
carved ivories, porcelain, pottery, terra-cotta and glass, 
metal-work, arms and armour, ornamental furniture, 
carvings in wood and stone, tapestries, embroideries, &c. 

These collections are arranged in a Building of red brick 
and terra cotta erected for the purpose, 1869-71, and in two 
large glazed courts, in the style of the Crystal Palace, and 
the cloisters around them on the ground, and in galleries 
above. (See Plan.) 

The South Court is decorated along the upper part of its 
walls with whole length portraits in mosaic of the principal 
artists the world has produced. The court is divided by a 
passage through the middle, overwhich runs(12) Prince Albert 
Gallery. The W. division is occupied by the Loan Collec¬ 
tion, of most valuable objects, lent for exhibition, by their 
owners, from the Queen downwards. These objects are, of 
course, liable to constant change. The E. division is filled 
with specimens of modern art manufactures purchased at 
the Paris, London, and other Great Exhibitions. 


Stairs leading to 
Picture Galleries, &c. 


XIX,—SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 


173 


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174 


XIX.—SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 


Adjoining this is (11) the Oriental Collection. Chinese and 
Japanese porcelain, bronze, enamels, carvings, lacquered 
ware, various textile fabrics, shawls, muslins, cloth of gold, 
&c. 

In the North Court are exhibited a marble gallery carved 
by Baccio d’Agnola, from Sta. Chiara, in Florence (c. 1500), 
and a pulpit from the same ch. 1520; a Moorish carved wood 
pulpit from Cairo, 15th century; Sir Christopher Wren’s 
original model for St. Paul’s, arranged as a Greek cross with 
equal arms (see St. Paul’s); the Waterloo vase of a block of 
Carrara marble, taken from the French during the war, 
carved with bas-reliefs by Westmacott, representing the 
Battle of Waterloo, and George, Prince-Regent, leading a 
charge of the Life-Guards!!—several marbles and wax models 
ascribed to Mic. Angelo, from Florence. Wrought iron 
gates, with elegant scrolls, the work of Huntingdon Shaw, 
the Nottingham,smith, 1694, brought from Hampton Court. 
Casts from Trajan’s column; the Biga, or Roman chariot 
of the Vatican, and of M. APgelo’s David; two pulpits 
by Giovanni and Nic. Pisano from Pisa; the Shrine of St. 
Sebald at Nuremberg. * In the cloisters round the court, 
casts from Cinque Cento sculpture; numerous specimens 
of enamelled terra-cotta or Luca della Robbia ware. An¬ 
tique Musical instruments. —Lutes, mandolins, harps; a finger 
oi'gan (16th century) said to have belonged to Luther; Han¬ 
del’s harpsichord. 

In the W. cloister (7) adjoining this Court is the A rt Library 
of 30,000 vols., chiefly works of reference; illustrations; 
Galleries of painting and sculpture; many works of great 
cost may be easily consulted here. 

The next compartment is filled with carved ivories, 
dyptichs, Roman and Byzantine, casts of ivories, six plaques 
of Cupidons by Du Quesnoy, &c. 

In the N.W., or School Cloisters, (4) near Exhibition Road, 
are specimens of Metal Worhi seals, art bronzes, locks, 
steel cojfiers; weapons, swords, wheel-lock pistols; carvings 
in lithographic stone, soapstone, boxwood; articles of cuir 
bouilld; Damascene work; decorated pewter by Francis 
Briot; altar-pieces or retables of carved wood; state car¬ 
riages, and sedan-chairs. 

In the North Cloister, (3) electrotype casts of the regalia in 
the Tower, of rare armour in the Louvre, of the chair of 
Dagobert; bronze gates in Cathedral of Pisa, and Baptistery 
of Florence; seven-branched candlestick from Milan; French 
and Flemish Tapestry, 15th and 16th centuries; old Furni¬ 
ture, sideboards carved and inlaid with marquetry, cabinets, 


XIX.—SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 


175 


wi‘oug1it-iron gates, gratings, stove-irons; priests’ Robes and 
Embroidery ; the Syon cope, 13th century, covered with 
forty-five coats of arms of Roman Catholic families, originally 
at Syon Nunnery on the Thames ; also various other copes, 
chasubles, dalmatics of silk, needle-work, &c. 

The New Museum of red brick (1 & 2), set off with rich and 
effective ornaments in terra-cotta (Captain Fowke’s design), 
forms three sides of a square. The Central division contains 
on the ground-floor excellent Refreshment Rooms, and, on 
either hand. Retiring Rooms for ladies and gentlemen. Above 
this is a Theatre for the delivery of popular lectures. 

From the W. end of the hall a handsome Staircase, appro¬ 
priately lined with majolica, leads into the Keramic Qallery, 
the columns of which are also encased in majolica, each 
bearing the portrait of some distinguished “ Potter,” whose 
works are grouped around it. 

Among the fine works of china, majolica, and potteiy 
here assembled, note —A plate bearing on it a painter of 
majolica at his work in his study (Caffagiolo, c. 1515, 150?.). 
Lustred majolica plates by Maestro Giorgio of Gubbio; 
plate with a girl’s portrait (Soulages coll. 100?.); plateau of 
majolica, wdth bust of Perugino (Soulages coll., 200?.); 
Henri Deux Ware, resembling ivory inlaid, made at Giron 
near Thouars; a high candlestick, (750?.,) 1541; a large 
plateau, (140?.,) 1535; a salt-cellar (300?.); tazza and cover, 
(450?.,) 1635; tazza, inlaid with black (180?.); Italian Faenza 
vase and cover (1480); Plaque of the Resurrection 126?.; 
Virgin and Child under a Gothic arch; Palissy ware, very 
choice, numerous specimens of Sevres bleu du roi; tur¬ 
quoise bleu; Capo di Monte, Venetian, Doccia, and other 
china-ware; vases by Minton, Copeland, &c., which gained 
medals at the great Exhibitions; specimens of china from 
Chelsea, Bow, Derby, Worcester, Bristol, Plymouth, Leeds, 
Stafibrdshire; small terra-cotta bust of Flaxman, modelled 
by himself, 1778, (161?.,) is appropriately placed near a 
selection of his best works ; the Wedgwood vase, egg-shape, 
with Cupids, a black basalt vase ; plaques bearing classic bas- 
reliefs ; small cameos, w'hite on blue ground. Here is a 
German stove covered with glazed terra-cotta tiles, bearing 
in relief the story of Mordecai; two tall china vases from 
St. Petersburg given to the Museum by the Emperor of 
Russia after the 1862 Exhibition. 

From the Porcelain Gallery there is a ready entrance to 
the Picture Galleries ; but before entering them it is well 
to visit the Prince Albert Gallery, stretching like a bridge 
across the centre of the South Court (12), and containing many 


176 XIX.—VERNON AND SHEEPSHANKS COLLECTION. 

A 

veiy precious objects. A metallic mirror of steel, damascened 
with gold and silver, made at Milan, 1550; Enamels of 
Limoges and Byzantine work; shrine in the form of a 
ch. (12th century); casket with dancing figures by L. Limou¬ 
sin, 16th century (1000^.); German tryptich, 13th century, 
with the Crucifixion and other Scripture subjects; altar 
crosses, episcopal staffs, croziei’s, &c., cups in crystal, agate, 
ivory, amber; ivory tankard from Augsburg; the Martelli 
bronze designed by Donatello, Florence; clocks of early 
date; the Emperor Kudolph’s astronomical globe; bronze 
candlestick from Gloucester, 1104 ; ancient and modern 
watches; cameos ; intaglios; jewellery. 

In a suite of well arranged Galleries are exhibited THE 
VERNON AND SHEEPSHANKS COLLECTION, British 
Schools, belonging to the National Gallery. 

Huysmax : Original Portrait of Izaak Walton, the angler.— Hogarth : 
Portrait of Himself (the well-known engi’aved head),— R. Wilson: 
Maecenas’ Villa; Grand Landscape, with the story of Niohe and her 
children.— Gainsborough: the Market-cart.— Lawrence : John Philip 
Kemble, as Hamlet.— Gilbert Stuart: Portrait of Woollett, the 
engraver. 


The Sheepshanks Collection. 

The late John Sheepshanks, Esq., while yet alive, bestowed on the 
nation a collection of 234 Oil Paintings, chiefly of modern British artists, 
—formed by himself,—besides drawings, &c., valued at 60 000Z. It in¬ 
cludes some of the finest and most popular works of the English school: 
including TPi[7A:ie’s Broken Jar, and Duncan Gray ; Mulready's OaoosmQ 
the Wedding Gown,—Giving a Bite,—First Love; Sir Edwin Landseer's 
Jack in Office,—Highland Drovers,—the Shepherd’s Chief Mourner,— 
Twa Dogs, &c.; G. R. Leslie's Uncle Toby and the Widow Wadraan,— 
Catherine and Petruchio, and the Merry Wives of Windsor; Rosa 
Bonheur, The Horse Fair, 

The Vernon Collection of the English School. 

162 Pictures, presented to the nation in 1847 by Robert Vernon, Esq., 
who died in 1849,— Gainsborough : Landscape, Sunset— Richard Wil¬ 
son: four small pictures.— Loutherbourg : small Landscape— Sir A. 
W. Callcott, R.A.: Littlehampton Pier; Coast Scene; Crossing the 
Brook,— Wilkie: the Bagpiper; the First Ear-ring; the Whiteboy’s 
Cabin.—E. Bird, R.A.: the Raffle for the Watch.— Constable, R.A,: 
llis Father’s Mill,— Collins, R.A.: Prawn Fishers.—P. Nasmyth: 
small Landscape in the manner of Hobbema.— Etty: the Bathers.— 
Turner, R.A.: William III. landing at Torbay; Composition Land¬ 
scape (fine); Two Views in Venice. 

T. UwiNS, R.A.: Claret Vintage.— F. R. Lee, R.A.: two Landscapes, 
—T. Creswick, R.A.: Landscape.— Edwin Landseer, R.A.: Peace 
and War, companion pictures;—Highland Piper and Dogs;—Spaniels 
of King Charles’s breed;—the Dying Stag;—High Life and Low Life 
—T. Webster, R.A.; the Dame’s School.— D. Maclise, R.A.: the 
Play Scene in Hamlet; Malvolio and the Countess.— Sir C. L. East- 
lake, P.R.A.: Christ weeping over Jerusalem.—E. M. Ward, A.R.A. : 


XIX.—SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 


177 


the Disgrace of Clarendon; ’Change Alley during the South Sea 
Bubble—J. Linxell : Landscape.—E. W, Cooke, A.K.A.: t^o Sea 
pieces.— Sidney Cooper, A.R.A.: a Cattle piece.—F. Danby, A.R.A. 
Landscape— Augustus Egg, A.R.A.: Scene from Gil Bias.—F.G oodall, 
A.R.A.: the Village Festival. 

The Cartoons op Haphael 

were brought from Hampton Court, 1865, and placed in a 
gallery expressly provided for them. There is a want of 
light to see them properly, blinds being drawn to prevent 
injury by the sun. But much greater injury is to be appre¬ 
hended from the penetrating soot of the London atmosphere. 

These seven cartoons, justly regarded as the grandest pro¬ 
ductions of Christian art, were executed by Raphael at the 
command of LeoX., 1514, as patterns for tapestries to adorn 
the lower part of the walls of the Sistine Chapel of the 
Vatican, the roof and E. end of which had been already 
painted by Michael Angelo. They are drawings on card¬ 
board (carton) in chalk, tinted with distemper. The sub¬ 
jects are :—Christ’s Charge to Peter;—The Death of Ana¬ 
nias;—Peter and John at the Beautiful Gate, Healing the 
Lame Man;—Paul and Barnabas at Lystra;—Elymas the 
Sorcerer Struck Blind;—Paul Preaching at Athens;—The 
Miraculous Draught of Fishes. 

The NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY, founded 1858, 
at the suggestion of Earl Stanhope, who is the first President, 
is placed temporarily in South Kensington Museum. 

The collection, though at present in its infancy, contains 
nearly 300 interesting portraits, &c., of British worthies, 
among them Sir Walter Raleigh, Shakespeare (Chandos por¬ 
trait, from Stowe), Queen Elizabeth, Mary Queen of Scots, 
Archbishop Laud (by Old Stone); Bishop Warburton, Wesley, 
Whitfield preaching. Dr. Watts; Lord Lovat, by Hogarth; 
Jeremy Bentham as a boy, Erasmus Darwin, by Wright of 
Derby; by Reynolds, Himself, Adm. Keppel, and Sir William 
Chambers; by Romney, Cumberland; by Walker, Ireton; by 
Kneller, 3\xdigQ Jeffries; by Lawrence, Wilberforce (a head) 
and Sir Jas. Mackintosh ; by Abbott, Nollekens ; by Beechey, 
Mrs. Siddons; by Naysmith, Robt. Burns; by Wilkie, his own 
Portrait; Princess Charlotte, Pope, Dry den. Waller, Steele, 
Prior, Byron:—Lord Clive, Wolfe, Nelson, Gen. Picton, 
Pitt, Fox, Walpole, Sir Wm, Temple; by Lely, Lord Wm. 
Russell:—Sam. Pepys, Dan. O’Connell, R. Cobden, and Nell 
Gwynn. George Scharf, Esq., is the leai’ned keeper. 

Meyrick Collection of Armour. 

In the long Gallery skirting the Horticultural Gardens, 
entered from Exhibition Road, the collection of armour 

N 


178 


XIX.—SOUTH KENSINOTON MUSEUM. 


formed by Sir Samuel Meyrick, formerly at Goodrich Court, 
is well arraugod in chronological order. In the first bay, 
works of early art; an ancient British bronze shield ; 
found in the bed of the Witham, Lincolnshire; the ambo 
or boss of shield set with cornelians ; British helmet, swords, 
&c.; jousting helmet of Sir Bichard Pembridge, 1375; a 
saddle of German work. Here are twelve mounted figures 
in full armour, from the time of Henry VI., the earliest 
date of any known suit of plate armour; armour of 
Emperor Maximilian; armour of Elector of Bavaria; 
fluted suit (1495); puffed suit (1510); black armour of a 
Knight of Ravenna (1525); chain shirting and suits of mail; 
specimens of early firearms; a tube attached to an axe fired 
as a pistol by a match ; the sword of Battle Abbey; one en¬ 
graved in the style of A. Durer; targets of Charles V, and 
Francis I.; cross-bows of the time of Elizabeth; a mounted 
trooper of the Civil Wars. 

All these collections are intended more or less to subserve 
the purpose of the Sciwol of Art, (x. branch of the Govern¬ 
ment Department of Science and Art. Lessons in Drawing, 
Modelling, &c., are given by first-class masters to Male and 
Female pupils, (including many ladies,) at a moderate cost. 

The Art Library of Reference, adjoining the H. Court, is a 
most useful collection of all the works on the subject, in¬ 
cluding Illustrations, all the European Galleries of Painting, 
Sculpture, &c,, both public and private, which may be 
readily consulted. 

The Museum of Patents, deposited here temporarily, con¬ 
tains an accumulation of machines and models; among them 
the original spinning and carding machine of Arkwright; 
model of the First Locomotive (Trevethick’s); the Beam 
Engine model made by James Watt; the first Steam Engine 
for ships (Millar of Dalswinton and Symington); also a col¬ 
lection of Portraits of Great Inventors. 


At a short distance from the Museum rises the Royal 
Albert Hall of Arts, or South Kensington Amphitheatre, be¬ 
tween Hyde Park and the Horticultural Gardens; a vast 
structure, capable of holding 10,000 persons, in the form of 
an ancient circus, but roofed over by a glass dome. The de¬ 
sign was suggested by the Prince Consort, carried out by 
Capt. Scott; the first stone was laid by the Queen, May 20, 
1868, and it was opened by Her Majesty March 29, 1871. It 
is designed for exhibitions of art and science, for concer ts 
public meetings, and balls. The shell of the building 
wohse exterior is richly decorated with coloured brick and 
terra-cotta ornaments of good design, surmounted by a 



XIX.—ALBERT HALL OF ARTS.—COL. OF SURGEONS. 179 

frieze of colored mosaic representing the various peoples of 
the globe, by Minton, consists of two concentric walls, 
between which are the staircases, corridors, &c. It measures 
200 feet in length, and 160 feet across, and is 140 feet 
high, lined with seats rising step fashion around an oval 
ai’ena, in the manner of a Roman circus, but one end is occu¬ 
pied by an organ and Orchestra, holding 2000 performers. 
On the ground is an oval arena holding 1000 persons, and 
two tiers of boxes form a girdle midAvay. Above which run 
a balcony for 2300, and a Gallery for 2000 spectators. 
Access and egress are facilitated by wedge-shaped corridors 
opening outwards. The oval hemispherical dome is formed 
of huge iron ribs ingeniously supported in a central rung. 
The cost of the building, about 200,000Z., has been defrayed 
by a sort of Joint Stock Company arrangement, by selling 
boxes on the first tier to hold 10, for 1000^. each, and on 
the second to hold 5, at 5001. each. 

INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION.—In 1871, a series of 
Halls and Galleries were constructed, continuously, around 
the Horticultural Gardens, communicating on the N. with 
the Royal Albert Hall, to seiwe for Annual Exhibitions of 
the products of all Nations. It has two entrances from Ex¬ 
hibition-Road, two from Prince Albert Road, and one from 
Kensington Road, through the Royal Albert Hall. The Ex¬ 
hibition is open from May 1, to September 30. 

The ground S. of this, being the site of the Great Exhibi¬ 
tion of 1862, is occupied by extensive constructions now in 
progress to contain the Collections of Natural History from 
the British Museum. 

MUSEUM OF THE ROYAL COLLEGE OF SUR¬ 
GEONS (HUNTERIAN MUSEUM), Ltncoln’s-Inn-Fields, 
South side, marked by its handsome portico, was built from 
Sir Charles Barry’s design, 1835, and is said to have cost 
40,000^. The Museum is open to the Members of the College, 
to the Trustees of the Hunterian Collection, and to Visitors 
introduced by them personally or by written orders on the 
public days, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday, 
from 12 to 5 from March to August, and from 12 to 4 from the 
1st of October to February 28. During the mouth of Septem¬ 
ber the Museum is closed. The Museum is also open as above 
to Peers and Members of Parliament; to all Fellows and 
Licentiates of the Royal Colleges of Physicians and Surgeons 
in the United Kingdom ; to the Officers in the Public Service; 
to the Members of all the Learned and Scientific Bodies in the 
United Kingdom, and to persons introduced by them respec- 


180 


XIX.—COLLEGE OF SURGEONS. 


tively; and to all Learned and Scientific Foreigners. The 
Secretary and Conservator exercise their discretion in the 
case of applications for admission from other persons. 

The Collection of the 'Royal College of Surgeons is de¬ 
signed to facilitate the study of the phenomena of life, both in 
health and disease, as the true foundation upon which the 
rational practice of the healing art is based. With this view, 
the Collection is divided into two chief departments. The 
first, the Physiological Series, contains examples of every im¬ 
portant modification of the different structures or organs by 
which the functions of life are carried on, throughout the 
whole range of organized beings, in a natural condition. 
The second, the Pathological Series, exhibits the same 
structures or organs, under the influence of injury, disease, 
or malformation. 

The Huntenan Collection, which forms the basis, and a 
large proportion of the contents of the Museum, was 
originally arranged in a building which its founder, John 
Hunter, erected for it iu 1785, behind his house in Leicester 
Square. He died October 16, 1793, aged 64. By his will, 
he directed his Museum to be offered, in the first instance, 
to the British Government, and iu case of refusal, to be sold 
in one lot, either to some Foreign State or as his executors 
might think proper. 

In 1799, Parliament voted 15,000Z. for the Museum, and 
an offer of it being made to the College of Sui’geons, it was 
accepted by that body. Subsequent grants have been made 
by Parliament, amounting altogether to 42,500/., towards the 
erection and enlargement of the edifice which contains it. 
It is now unquestionably not only the largest, but the best 
arranged anatomical Museum in the world. 

Tlie Collection is contained in three apartments, named 
the Western, the Middle, and the Eastern Museums. The 
ground floor of each apartment is devoted to skeletons and 
hard parts of animals, and other preparations in a dry state, 
those of large size being placed on pedestals in the body of 
the room, the others in glazed cases round the walls, and 
in cabinets on the floor. The Galleries are appropriated 
to the preparations contained in bottles. The apartment 
first entered is the Western Museum. The Ground Floor is 
assigned to the Pathological Preparations in a dried state, 
consisting chiefly of diseases and injuries of bone, as well as 
injected preparations, anatomical models in wax, mummies, 
&c. It also contains a portion of the series of Natural 
Structures, viz., the Zoological Series of Invertebrate Animals, 
and the illustrations of Normal Human Osteology, of which 
the series is very extensive, embracing upwards of 800 


XIX.—COLLEGE OF SURGEONS. 


181 


skulls of various races of men. The two Galleries are 
devoted^ exclusively to the Pathological Preparations in 
bottles, including monstrosities and malformations. In the 
rail-case around the Lower Gallery is placed the collection 
of Calculi and other Concretions, and the Toynbee Collec¬ 
tion of Diseases of the Ear. In that around the Upper 
Gallery is a collection of models illustrating Diseases of the 
Skin. Observe. —In the middle of the room, supported on 
columns, is the skeleton of a Greenland Right-Whale (Balcuna 
mysticetus), taken at the Danish settlement of Holsteinberg, in 
South Greenland, in the winter of 1861—62. This is the only 
complete skeleton of this species in England. The statue of 
John Hunter, the founder of the Collection, erected by public 
subscriptiou in 1864, is by H. Weekes, R.A. In one of the 
wall-cases, at the further end of the room, is the skeleton, 8 
feet high, of Charles Byrne or O’Brian, the Irish Giant, who 
died in 1783, aged 22, 

The Middle Museum contains on the Ground Floor the 
fossil remains of extinct Vertebrated Animals; and in its 
two Galleries, part of the physiological collection, and an 
instructive series of Entozoa, or Parasitic animals. Observe^ 
—The skeleton of the gigantic extinct Deer {CerviLS mega- 
ceros), commonly called the Irish Elk,” which was dug up 
from a bed of shell-marl, beneath a peat-bog, near Limerick. 
The span of the antlei’s, between the extreme tips, is 8 feet, 
and their weight upwards of TOlbs. The skeleton of the 
extinct huge Ground Sloth {Megatherium Ouvieri),irom near 
Buenos Ayres, presented by Sir Woodbine Parish, is in part 
a restoration, the supplied portions (taken from authentic 
sources), being marked with a red star. The skeletons 
of the Mylodon and the Glyptodon, also from the vicinity 
of Buenos Ayres. Remains of the Moa or Dinornis, the 
gigantic wingless bird from New Zealand. 

The Eastern Museum is entirely appropriated to the 
Physiological series. The Ground Floor is devoted to illus¬ 
trations of the Osteology of the Vertebrate Animals, and 
the Galleries contain preparations in spirit, exhibiting the 
most remai’kable modifications of every other portion of the 
organization throughout the animal kingdom. In the rail- 
cases attached to the Galleries, dried specimens belonging to 
the series are placed. Observe. —Suspended from the middle 
of the ceiling is the skeleton of a Sperm-Whale or Cachalot 
{Physeter macroceplialus), taken off the coast of Tasmania, in 
1864. Its length is 50 feet and 1 inch, of which the 
skull occupies 16 feet 9 inches, and it weighs nearly 24 tons. 
The immense cavity on the upper surface of the head is filled 
during life by a quantity of oleaginous matter, which, when 


182 


XIX.—COLLEGE OF SURGEONS. 


purified, yields the ‘^spermaceti” of commerce. The oil 
from the thick layer of fat or blubber, which everywhere 
surrounds the body of the animal immediately beueath the 
skin, is the much valued “sperm oil.” Around this majestic 
specimen of the cetaceous order are suspended, on a level 
with the Lower Gallery of the Museum, eight skeletons of 
smaller members of the same group, all called “ w'hales” in 
ordinary language, though presenting considerable variations 
in structure, as an inspection of their bony framework Avill 
show. Among the large skeletons in the floor of the room, 
is that of the Elephant Chunee, which Avas exhibited at 
Exeter Change, from 1814 to 1826, when becoming un¬ 
governable, it Avas found necessary to destroy it, but it Avas 
not until upAvards of 100 bullets had been fired into various 
parts of its head and body, that the poor beast finally 
succumbed. The Avall-cases around this room contain a very 
large series of skeletons of Vertebrated Animals, arranged in 
order from the lowest Fish up to Man, and including nearly 
all the most interesting forms known to naturalists. 

A general account of the objects of interest in the Museum 
is contained in a “Synopsis,” Avhich may be obtained from 
the principal attendant, price Sixpence, and the greater 
number of the specimens are fully described in the 25 quarto 
volumes of the printed catalogue, which are placed in the 
Museum for the use of visitors. 

The College of Surgeons possesses a Library of 33,000 
vols. of Avorks on Anatomy, Surgery and the allied Sciences, 
and a Collection of Portraits and busts of eminent Sur¬ 
geons, including the Avell-knoAvn “ John Hunter,” by Sir 
Joshua Keynolds. The Conservator of the Museum is Prof. 
Flower, F.R.S. 

SOANE MUSEUM, 13, Lincoln’s Inn Fields, north side; 
formed by Sir John Soane, son of a bricklayer at Ileadiiig, 
and architect of the Bank of England (d. 1837). 

This very interesting and valuable collection of Art is open 
to general visitors on Thursdays and Fridays from 10 to 4 
during April, May, and June. In February, March, July, and 
August, on Wednesdays only. 

Tickets are obtained on application at the hall and entering 
the name in a book. 

: Access to the Books, Drawings, MSS., or peiunission to 
copy Pictures or other Works of Art, is to be obtained by 
special application to the Trustees or the Curator. 

The house was built in 1812, and the collection is dis¬ 
tributed over 24 rooms. Every corner and passage is 
tui’iied to account. On the north and Avest sides of the 


XIX.—SOANE MUSEUM. 


183 


Picture-room arc Cabinets, and on the south arc Moveable 
Shutters, with sufficient space between for pictures. By this 
arrangement, the small space of 13 feet 8 inches in length, 
12 feet 4 inches in breadth, and 19 feet 6 inches high, is 
rendered capable of containing as many pictures as a gallery 
of the same height, 45 feet long and 20 feet broad. Observe 
—The Egyptian Sarcophagus, discovered by Belzoni, Oct. 
19th, 1816, in a tomb in the valley of Biban el Malook, near 
Goumou. It is formed of one single piece of alabaster, or 
an-agonite, measuring 9 feet 4 inches in length by 3 feet 8 
inches in width, and 2 feet 8 inches in depth, and covered 
internally and externally with elaborate hieroglyphics. 
When a lamp is placed within it, the light shines through, 
though it is 2-^ inches in thickness. On the interior of the 
bottom is a full-length figure, representing the Egyptian Isis, 
the guardian of the dead. It w^as purchased by Soane, from 
Mr. Salt, in 1824, for 2000?. The raised lid or cover, broken 
into nineteen fi'agmcnts, lies beneath it. Sir Gardner 
Wilkinson considers that it is a cenotaph rather than a 
sarcophagus, and the name inscribed to be that of Osirei, 
father of Ranieses the Great.—Sixteen original sketches and 
models, by Flaxman, including a cast of the Shield of 
Achilles.—Six original sketches and models by T. Banks, 
R.A., including the Boothby Monument, oiie of his finest 
w'orks,—A large collection of ancient gems, intaglios, &c., 
under glass, and in a very good light. Set of the Napoleon 
medals, selected by the Baron Denon for the Empress 
Josephine, and once in her possession. — Sir Christopher 
Wren’s watch.—Carved and gilt ivory table and four ivory 
chairs, formerly in Tippoo Saib’s palace at Seringapatam. 
—Richly mounted pistol, said to have been taken by Peter 
the Great from the Bey, Commander of the Tui’kish army at 
Azof, 1696, and presented by the Emperor Alexander to 
Napoleon, at tlie Treaty of Tilsit in 1807 : Napoleon took it 
to St. Helena, from whence it w^as brought by a French 
officer, to whom he had presented it.—The original copy of 
the Gerusalemme Liberata, in the handwriting of Tasso. 
—First four folio editions of Shakspeare (J. P. Kemble’s 
copies).—A folio of designs for Elizabethan and James I. 
houses by John Thorpe, an architect.—Fauntleroy’s Illus¬ 
trated copy of Pennant’s London; purchased by Soane 
for 650 guineas.—Commentary on St. Paul’s Epistles, illu¬ 
minated by Qiulio Clovio for Cardinal Grimani.—Three 
Canalettis —one A View on the Grand Canal of Venice, 
extremely fine,—The Snake in the Grass, or Love unloosing 
the Zone of Beauty, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; purchased at 
the sale of the Marchione.ss of Thomond’s pictures, for 500?. 


184 XIX.—SOANE MUSEUM—EAST INDIxVN MUSEUM. 


—The Rake’s Progress, by Hogarth^ a series of 8 pictures; 
purchased by Soane in 1802 for 598^.—1. The Rake comes to 
his Fortune; 2. The Rake as a Fine Gentleman; 3. The 
Rake in a Bagnio; 4. The Rake Arrested; 5. The Rake’s 
Marriage; 6. The Rake at the Gaming Table ; 7. The Rake in 
Prison; 8. The Rake in Bedlam.—The Election, by Hogarth, 
a series of four pictures; purchased by Soane, at Mrs. 
Garrick’s sale in 1823, for 1732^. 10s.—Admiral Tromp’s Barge 
entering the Texel, by J. M. W. Tim'mr, R.A. —Portrait of 
Napoleon in 1797, by Francesco Goma. —Miniature of Napoleon, 
painted at Elba in 1814, by Isabey. —In the Dining-room is a 
portrait of Soane, by Sir T. Lawrence ; and in the Gallery 
under the dome, a bust of him by Sir F. Chantrey. 

The EAST. INDIAN MUSEUM, India Office, Downing 
Street, is placed temporarily in an Attic Story. (See 
Index.) It is to be hoped that a separate building may 
be raised for collections of such great interest, some of 
which cannot now be displayed for want of space. It is 
open to the public, Friday, 10 to 4. It contains not only 
antiquities and historical relics, but also an assemblage 
of the chief natural productions of India, with specimens of 
the arts and manufactures, and illustrations of the industry, 
manners, and customs of the various races. In the Entrance- 
hall Stairs are statues of Wellington (by Noble), Clive, 
Hastings, Coote, Wellesley, and others distinguished in 
India (by Flaxman). Among the Natural productions are 
gums, dyes, drugs, teas and coffees, cotton and other fibre- 
yielding plants, oils, spices, starches, perfumes, raw silks, 
wools, timber and woods, feathers, horns, minerals, jade, 
agates of Cambay, metals, marbles, gems and half-precious 
stones. Its Manufactures include potteiy, marbles, inlaid 
and wrought, carvings in jade, crystal, ivory, sandal and 
other woods, mosaics of Rajpoot, and inlaid work of Bombay 
and Surat, japanned and lacquer work; cutlery, brass and 
iron work. In the Model Room are implements, tools, dwel¬ 
lings, machinery, a Kutcherrie, or Law Court. Among indus¬ 
trial products are paper made of different fibres and leaves, 
metal-work, jewelry, Trichinopoly chains and filigree-work, 
from Cuttack silver armlets and bangles, lacquered w^are. 
In arms and armour the collection is rich and curious: the 
Ghoorkas’ knives, the Rajpoots’ swords, the Santals’ spears 
and shields, native artillery, ancient wall pieces on the plan 
of Colt’s revolver, camel-guns, cannon. Among textile fabrics 
are the shawls of Cashmere (of goats’ wool); Delhi embroidery, 
muslins of Dacca; Kincob fabrics from Ahmedabad and Tan- 
jore; embroideries and brocades in gold and silver thread. 

The arts of India are exhibited in carvings of ivory, (in 


XTX.—EAST INDIAN MUSEUM. 


185 


eluding mats and rugs made of cut fibres of elephants’ 
tusks,) figures of ivory, costumes, chessmen of most elabo¬ 
rate workmanship, articles of bufialos’ and other horns. 
Carvings in wood. The golden chair of state of Runjeet 
Singh. A model of the Car of Juggernaut. Sculptured 
images of Hindoo Worship. Observe .—Large drawing of 
old East India House. Hindu idols in silver and gold, and 
stone. Pair of gauntlets made at Lahore, sometimes used 
by the native chiefs and horsemen in India (beautifully 
elaborate). The “ Tiger’s Claws ” of steel, made to be worn 
on the fingers and concealed within the closed hand, with 
which the Mahi'atta chief Sivagee tore to pieces his enemy 
Afzal Khan, in the act of embracing him. Sword of the 
executioner attached to the palace of the King of Candy 
(taken at the capture of Candy). Piece of wood of the ship 
“ Farquharson,” penetrated through the copper sheathing and 
outside lining into one of the floor timbers by the horn of a 
monodon or narwal. An emblematic organ (a tiger devour¬ 
ing an Englishman), contrived for the amusement of Tippoo 
Sultan. Surya, the Sun, in his seven-horse car. Buddhist 
idols and relics. The state howdah of Durgan Sal, usurper 
of Bhurtpore. Babylonian inscription on stone, in cuneiform 
characters ! Buddhist sculptures from Amravati on the 
Khistna. The collection of the birds of India, properly 
classified, is very complete. The coins (a most valuable 
collection) can only be seen by special permission. 

Hoole, the translator of Tasso; Charles Lamb, author of 
Elia; and James Mill, the historian of British India; were clerks 
in the East India House. “My pi-inted works,” said Lamb, “were 
my recreations—my true works may be found on the shelves 
in Leadenhall-street, filling some hundred folios.” This turns 
out to have been a fiction or a joke. The East Indian records 
show not the least trace of any work done by Charles Lamb. 

The Indian Library of the East India House is both ex¬ 
tensive and valuable, including 8000 vols. of MSS. (3000 
Sanscrit), formerly at Hailey bury; Warren Hastings’ copy 
of the Shah Kama; Tippoo Sultan’s Koran, his Autobio¬ 
graphy, and interpretation of his own dreams : Miniature 
Korans, Koran in Cufic characters, one taken to India by 
Tamerlane; seals and autograph of oriental sovereigns. 

UNITED SERVICE MUSEUM, Middle Scotland Yard, 
Whitehall. Founded 1830, as a central repository for objects 
of professional arts, science, natural history, books and docu¬ 
ments relating to the military and naval profession, and for 
the delivery of lectures on appropriate subjects. Admisdon^ 
by Member’s order, April to September, from 11 to 5; winter 
months, from 11 to 4. The Museum contains much that will 


186 


XIX.—UNITED SERVICE MUSEUM. 


rej)ay a visit. Obseive. —Basket-hilted cut-and-thriist sword, 
used by Oliver Cromwell at the siege of Drogheda (1649),— 
the blade bears the marks of two musket-balls ; sword worn 
by General Wolfe when he fell at Quebec (1759); sash used 
in carrying Sir John Moore from the field, and lowering 
him into his gi’ave on the rampai’ts at Coruinia; model of 
battle of Trafalgar, sword, and other relics of Kelson; part 
of the deck of the Victory on which Nelson fell; rudder 
of the Royal George sunk at Spithead; skeleton of Marengo, 
the barb-horse which Napoleon rode at Waterloo. On the 
first floor are Captain Siborne’s elaborate and faithful model 
of the field and battle of Waterloo, containing 190,000 
metal figures; Col. Hamilton’s model of Sebastopol; the 
signal-book of the United States’ ship Chesapcalce, captured 
by t\\e Shannon; Captain Cook’s chi’onometer; Sir Francis 
Drake’s walking-stick; Arctic relics of Sir John Franklin, 
The members are above 4000 in number. Entrance-fee, 1^, ; 
annual subscription, 10s.; life subsci’iption, 6/. 

MUSEUM OF PKACTICAL GEOLOGY, Nos. 28 to 32, 
Jermyn Street (Director Sir Eodk. Impey Murchison, F.R.S,, 
P.R.G.S., &c,), established 1835, in consequenee of a repre¬ 
sentation to the Government by Sir Henry de la Beehe, 
C.B., that the geological survey, then under the Ordnance, 
and in progress in Cornwall, offered gi^eat opportunities 
of illustrating the application of geology to the useful 
purposes of life. The present handsome and well-eontrived 
Museum (Mr. Pennethorne, architect) was opened in 1851. 
The best use has been made of the space, and a building 
better fitted for it^ purposes could not have been devised. 
It cost 30,000?. The Museum is a School of Mines, similar, 
as far as circumstances permit, to the ^lcole des Mines and 
other institutions of the like kind on the Continent, The 
pupils receive instruction from competent professors on 
metallurgy, chemistry, natural history, applied mechanics, 
geology, mineralogj^, and mining, having access to the labora¬ 
tories. Fee for students, 30?. A very valuable collection 
of mining records has been formed. 

The collections illustrate the mineral products of eveiy part 
of the United Kingdom and Colonies, including the marbles, 
porphyries, building-stones, &c., &c., with complete series of 
fossils, ores, and minerals. There arc beautiful specimens 
of polished vases, statues, inlaid floors of mosaics, of native 
substances and manufacture. They illustrate the application 
of geology to the useful jDurposes of life; numei’ous models 
of mining works, mining machinery, metallurgical processes, 
including those of Bessemer for making steel, and other 
operations, with needful maps, sections, and drawings, aiding 


XIX.—THE missionaries’ MUSEUM. 


187 


a proper and comprelieusive view of tlio general subject. 
Pottery and porcelain, a very good collection, historically 
arranged. The Lecture Theatre holds 450 persons, and 
evening lectures to working men, illustrative of the collec¬ 
tions in the Museum, are delivered in it every season. 

The Museum is gratuitously open to public inspection 
every week-day (except Fridays), 10 to 4. 

THE MISSIONARIES’ MUSEUM, Bloomfield Street, 
Moorfields, comprises a collection of objects of Natural 
History, and the original idols of the natives of the South 
Seas, prior to the introduction of Christianity : also other 
curiosities from the various regions to which the influence of 
the Missionary Society extends; the club with which 
Williams, the missionary, was slain. The Museum is open for 
public inspection, free, on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Satur¬ 
days, from 10 to 4, from March 25th to September 29thj the 
rest of the year from 10 to 3. 


XX.-THEATRES AND PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 

HER MAJESTY’S THEATRE, or the Opera House, in 
the Haymarket. The actual building was erected in 12 
months, May, 1868-69, after a fire, which destroyed all but 
the 4 walls, in December 1867. (Messrs. Trollope, builder’s.) 
Having been twice burned, every effort has been made to 
render the present building fire-proof. There are 4 fire¬ 
proof staircases from top to bottom. It is one of the largest 
theatres in Europe, and the third theatre on the same site. 
The second was built (1790) from the design of Michael 
Novosielski, enlarged by Nash and Reptou in 1816-18. 
The first theatre on the site was built (1705) by Sir John 
Vanbrugh, and burnt down in 1789. Many of the double 
boxes on the ground tier have sold for as much as 7000Z. 
and 8000?.; a box on the pit tier has sold for 4000?. All the 
first singers in Europe during the past century have per¬ 
formed here. It will hold 1800 persons. Closed since 1867. 

COVENT GARDEN THEATRE, or The Royal Italian 
Opera, on the west side of Bow-street, Covent-garden, is the 
third theatre on the same spot. The second of these was 
opened (1809) at “new prices:” hence the O..P. (OldPrices) 
Row. In 1847, it was converted into an Italian Opera. 
This noble theatre (the finest in London) was destroyed, 
5th March, 1856, by accidental fire. The present building 
(JE. M. Barry, architect) was finished in the space of 6 months, 
1858. It is nearly as capacious as the Scala Theatre in 
Milan, the largest in Europe. It will hold 2000 persons. 
Italian Operas are performed here in summer, commencing 



188 XX. — DRURY LANE—HAYMARKET—ADELPHI. 


at 84 . The statues of Tragedy and Comedy, and the two 
bas-reliefs on the Bow-street front, are by Flaxman. 

DRURY LANE THEATRE (Mr. B. Wyatt, sou of James 
Wyatt, architect), is the oldest existing theatre in London. 
The present edifice, the fourth on the same site, was erected 
and opened, 1812, -with a prologue by Lord Byron. The 
portico towards Brydges-street was added during the lessee- 
ship of Elliston (1819-26), and the colonnade in Little 
Russell-street a few years after. Within the vestibule is a 
marble statue of Edmund Kean as Hamlet, by Carew. It 
is like—^but the attraction of Kean in Hamlet was the 
witchery of his voice. 

The HAYMARKET THEATRE (over against the Opera 
House in the Haymarket) was built by Nash, and publicly 
opened July 4th, 1821. It stands on a piece of ground 
immediately adjoining a former theatre of the same name. 
The lessee is Mr. Buckstone, the Avell-known actor. 

The ADELPHI THEATRE, over against Adam Street, in 
the Strand, was re-built (1858). The original edifice was a 
speculation of one Mr. John Scott, a colour-maker. The 
entertainments consisted of a mechanical and optical exhi¬ 
bition, with songs, recitations, and imitations; and the 
talents of Miss Scott, the daughter of the proprietor, gave 
a profitable turn to the undertaking. The old front to¬ 
wards the Strand was a mere house-front. When Tom and 
Jerry,” by Pierce Egan, appeared for the first time (Nov. 
26th, 1821), Wrench as “Tom,” and Reeve as “Jerry,” 
the little Adelphi, as it was then called, became a favourite 
with the public. Its fortunes varied under different manage¬ 
ments. Terry and Yates became (1825) the joint lessees 
and managers. Terry was backed by Sir Walter Scott and 
his friend Ballantyne, the printer, but Scott, in the sequel, 
had to pay for both Ballantyne and liimself. Charles 
Mathews, in conjunction with Yates, leased the theatre, and 
gave here (1828-31) his series of inimitable “At Homes.” 
Here John Reeve drew' large houses, and obtained his reputa¬ 
tion; and here Mr. Benjamin Webster (the present lessee), 
maintains the former character of the establishment. 

The ROYAL LYCEUM THEATRE, or Royal Italian 
Opera, is in the Strand, at the corner of Upper Wellington- 
street; it was built, 1834, by S. Beazley, architect (d. 1851). 
The interior decorations were made in Madame Vestris’s 
time (1847), and are very beautiful. The theatre derives its 
name from an academy or exhibition room, built 1765, for 
the Society of Arts, by Mr. James Payne, architect. It was 
first converted into a theatre in 1790, and into an English 


XX.— LYCEUM—princess’s—ASTLEY’s. 


189 


Opera House by Mr. Arnold in 1809. The preceding theatre 
(also the w(3rk of Mr. Beazley) was destroyed by fire, Feb. 
16th, 1830. 

The PRINCESS’S THEATRE is in Oxford Street, 
nearly opposite the Pantheon. Built 1830 ; let on lease at 
2,600^. per annum ; is one of the best theatres in London 
for the pm’poses of a manager and the interests of the public. 
The property is held under the Duke of Portland for a term 
of 60 years, from July, 1820, at a very low ground rent. 

SADLER’S WELLS THEATRE, long a well-known place 
of public amusement: first a music-house, and so called from 
a spring of mineral water, discovered by one Sadler, in 1683, 
in the garden of a house which he had opened as a public 
music-room, and called “ Sadler’s Music House.” Here Gri¬ 
maldi, the famous clown, achieved his greatest triumphs. 
This house, under the management of Mr. Phelps, acquired 
great celebrity for the admirable manner in which the plays 
of Shakspere and the Old Dramatists were placed on the stage. 

ASTLEY’S THEATRE, Westminster Bridge Road, 
originally an equestrian circus, the fourth building of the 
same nature on the same site. The first amphitheatre 
on this spot was a mere temporary erection of deal boards, 
built (1774) by Philip Astley, a light-horseman in the 15th 
or General Elliot’s regiment. It stood on what was then 
St. George’s Fields, through which the New Cut ran. 
Astley himself, said to have been the handsomest man in 
England, was the chief performer, assisted by a drum, two 
fifes, and a clown of the name of Porter. At first it was 
an open area. In 1780, it was converted into a covered 
amphitheatre. It has been thrice destroyed by fire—in 
1794, in 1803, and in 1841. 

“ Base Buonaparte, fill’d with deadly ire, 

Sets, one by one, our playhouses on fire. 

Some years ago he pounced with deadly glee on 
The Opera House, then burnt down the Pantheon; 

Thy hatch, O Halfpenny! pass’d in a trice, 

Boil’d some black pitch, and burnt down Astley’s twice.” 

Rejected Addresses. 

Mr. Ducrow, who had been one of Astley’s riders and became 
manager, died insane soon after the fire in 1841. 

The only equestrian Circus at present is the ROYAL 
AMPHITHEATRE, Holborn. Opens 8 p.m. 

ROYAL ALFRED, or MARYLEBONE THEATRE, New 
Church Street, Edgware Road. 

ROYAL COURT THEATRE, Sloane Square. 

GLOBE THEATRE, Newcastle Street, Strand. 


190 XX.—VICTORIA—SURREY—ST. .TAMES’—OLYMnC. 

GAIETY THEATRE, Strand. 

ROYALTY THEATRE, Dean Street, Soho. 

The VICTORIA THEATRE, Waterloo Bridge Road, 
Lambeth, was originally The Coburg, and called The Victoria 
soon after the accession of William lY., when her present 
Majesty was only heir presumptive to the crown. The 
gallery is one of the largest in London. It will hold from 
1500 to 2000 people. 

The SURREY THEATRE, in Blackfriars Road, was 
built (1806 and 1866) on the site of former edifices destroyed 
by fire. Elliston leased it for a time. John Palmer, the 
actor (d, 1798), played here while a prisoner within the 
Rules of the King’s Bench. The large sums he received, and 
the way in which he squandered his money, is said to 
have suggested the clause in the then Debtors’ Act, which 
made all public-houses and places of amusement out of the 
Rules. This house is chiefly supported by the inhabitants of 
Southwark and Lambeth. 

The ST. JAMES’S THEATRE is a small neat edifice, on 
the south side of King Street, St. James’s, built by Beazley 
for Braham, the singer. During the summer it is often 
appropriated to the performances of a French company of 
actors, and in the height of the London season is well 
frequented. The prices of admission vary eveiw season. 

The OLYMPIC THEATRE, in Wych Street, near the 
Strand. This theatre, under the management of Madame 
Vestris, achieved a great success; and it was during her 
reign here that the present Charles Mathews v/as introduced 
to the stage under the auspices of the celebrated Liston. 

STANDARD THEATRE, Shoreditch, rebuilt, 1867, on 
site of old Curtain Theatre, in wliich Ben Jonson acted. 

THE QUEEN’S THEATRE, originally St. Martin’s 
Hall, Long Acre, originally built, 1850, for monthly con¬ 
certs for Mr. Hullah, was burned down 1860. It has since 
been I’ebuilt, and opened as a theatre. 

Prince op Wales’, Opera Comique, Vaudeville, Hol- 
BORN, King’s Cross, St. George’s Opera House, &c. 

EXETER HALL, Strand. A lai’ge proprietary building 
on the N. side of the Strand, built (1831-50) from the de¬ 
signs of J. P. Deering. The Hall is 131 feet long, 76 feet 
wide {i. e. 8 feet wider than Westminster Hall), and 45 
feet high; and will contain morp than 3000 persons. It 
is let for the annual “May Meetings” of the several re¬ 
ligious societies, and for the concerts of the Sacred Harmonic 


XX.—EXETER HALL—ST. JAMES’ HALL. 


191 


Society, in which the unrivalled music of Handel is at times 
performed, with a chorus of 700 voices accompanying it. 
Tickets at the music-sellers, and at the Hall. The stair¬ 
case and means of egress are quite inadequate to the size 
of the building, and in the event of alarm of fire fatal 
consequences might ensue. 

ST. JAMES’S HALL, Piccadilly and Regent’s Quadrant, 
contains a sumptuous Hall for public meetings, religious 
services, concerts, or dinners, 139 feet long and 60 feet 
high, designed and decorated by Owen Jones. The lighting, 
by means of pendant gas drops from the roof, is very elegant. 

A restaurant occupies the lower story of the building. 

WILLIS’S ROOMS, is a suite of Assembly and Dining¬ 
rooms in King Street, St. James’s, built (1765) by Robert 
Mylne, architect, and called Almack’s after the original, and 
“ Willis’s Rooms,” after the present proprietor. The balls 
called “ Almack’s,” for which these I’ooms are famous, were 
managed by a Committee of Ladies of high I'ank ; and, set 
apart most exclusively for the aristocracy, were carried on 
down to 1863, when the barrier began to be broken through 
by plebeian invasions, the prestige was lost, and they were 
given up. Almack kept the Thatched House Tavern, St. 
James’s-street, on the site of which stands the Conservative 
Club. The rooms are let for concerts, general meetings, 
public balls, and public and private dinner parties. The 
house is well managed, and the cuisine is very good. 

The ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, in Regent’s Park, be¬ 
long to the Zoological Society of London, instituted in 1826, 
for the advancement of Zoology, and the introduction and 
exhibition of the Animal Kingdom alive or properly pre¬ 
served. The principal founders were Sir Humphry Davy 
and Sir Stamford Raffles. Visitors are admitted to the Gardens 
of the Society without orders on Monday in every week, at 
6 fi!. each; on the following days at Is. each; children at 6c?. 
The Gai’dens are open from 9 in the morning till sunset. On 
Sundays they are open to Members only, and two friends 
introduced personally, or by special order. The rooms of 
the Society ai’e at No. 11, Hanover-square. A member’s fee 
on admission is 5?., and his annual subscription 3?. These 
Gardens are among the best of our London sights, and 
should be seen by every stranger in London. They con¬ 
tain the largest and most complete series of living animals 
in the world: amounting commonly to more than 500 
quadrupeds, and 1000 birds, and 100 reptiles. Many 
species have been first shown alive in these Gardens. The 
Monkey-house, in the form of a conservatory of iron and 


192 


XX.—ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS. 


glass, and tlie Antelope and Zebra shed.s, are very popular; 
but the great attractions of the Gardens have been a pair 
of Hippopotami, presented by the Viceroy of Egypt, the 
first ever brought to this country, the Elephant Calf, the 
Apteryx from Hew Zealand; and the Vivarium, or Aqua- 
mum, of living fishes and other marine and freshwater 
animals, is a very interesting exhibition. The sea bear is 
one of the latest attractions. The collection of living snakes 
is the largest ever formed in Europe. The band of the 
Life Guards is to be heard here in summer on Saturday at 4. 
The lions and tigers are fed at 4 p.m. The annual expenditure 
for Gardens and Museum amounts to 25,000Z.: the income 
exceeds20,000Z.; in the Exhibition year 26,000Z.; of this, about 
5000Z. is derived from subscribers, the rest admission fees. 

THE GERMAN GYMNASIUM, Old St. Pancras Road, 
King’s Cross. A spacious hall for the practice of Gymnastic 
Exercises, upon the system of the German Herr Jahn. It was 
built in 1866 by acompany for the use of a private association. 

XXl.-SCIENTIFIC SOCIETIES-LEARNED 
INSTITUTIONS. 

New Burlington House, the Palace of the Learned Societies, 
Piccadilly—an Italian edifice erected from designs of Messrs. 
Banks and Barry, 1871-2, in front of the old Burlington 
House forms three sides of a square, of which the main 
facade facing Piccadilly, occupies the site of the famous Gate¬ 
way and Colonnade, designed by Lord Burlington, and re¬ 
moved 1869. The new building accommodates on the E. side 
of the Quadrangle, the Royal, Geological and Chemical; on the 
W. side Antiquarian, Astronomical,‘AXidi Linncean^ocieties. 
58,000Z. has been gi*anted by Parliament for the building. 

GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, Burlington 
House. Established 1807. (By Charter 1826.) Rev. Dr. 
Buckland, Messrs. Greenough and Warburton, Founders. 
The Museum of geological specimens, fossils, &c., not only 
British, but from all quarters of the globe, is extensive, 
though not perfectly arranged. It may be seen by the intro¬ 
duction of a membei’. The museum and library are open 
every day from 11 till 5. The number of Fellows is about 
875. They meet for perusal of papers and for scientific 
discussions, at half-past 8 o’clock in the evening of alternate 
Wednesdays, from November to June inclusive. The Society 
publishes its Ti'ansactions, which now assume the form of a 
quarterly journal. Entrance money, 6 guineas; annual 
subscx’iption, 3 guineas. 

The ROYAL SOCIETY, was incorporated by royal 



XXI.—ROYAL SOCIETY. 


193 


charter, 16G3, Charles II. and the Duke of York entering their 
names as members. This celebrated Society (boasting of 
the names of Newton, Wren, Halley, Herschel, Davy, and 
Watt, among its members) originated in a small attendance 
of men engaged in the same pursuit of science, and in weekly 
meetings held in London, 1645. The merit of suggesting such 
meetings is assigned by Wallis to Theodore Haak, a German 
of the Palatinate, then resident in London. The Civil War 
interrupted their pursuits for a time; but with the llesto- 
ration a fresh accession of strength was obtained, new 
members enlisted, and the charter of incorporation granted. 
The Society consists of about 766 Fellows,” and the letters 
F.R.S. are generally appended to the name of a member. 
The entrance money is IQl. and the annual subscription 
il.; members are elected by ballot, upon the nomination 
of six or more fellows. The reception-rooms, where the 
President holds his soirees in March and April, are on the 
1st floor, and iuclude the Library, rich in works of science. 
The meetings of the Society are held once a week, from the 
3rd Thursday in Nov. to the 3rd Thursday in June, on the 
ground floor. The patron saint of the Society is St. Andrew, 
and the anniversaiy meeting is held every 30th of November, 
being St. Andrew’s Day. The Society possesses some in¬ 
teresting portraits. Observe. —Three portraits of Sir Isaac 
Newton—one by C. Jervas, presented by Newton himself, and 
properly suspended over the President’s chair—a second in 
the Library, by D. 0. Marcliand —and a third by Vander- 
hank ; two portraits of Halley, by Thomas Murray and Dahl; 
two of Hobbes—one taken in 1663 by, says Aubre, “a good 
hand”—and the other by Oaspars, presented by Aubrey ; 
Sir Christopher Wren, by Kneller; Wallis, by Soest; Flam- 
stead, by Gibson; Robert Boyle, by F. Kerseboom (Evelyn 
says it is like); Pepys, by Kneller, presented by Pepys; 
Lord Somers, by Kneller ; Sir R. Southwell, by Kneller ; Sir 
H. Spelman, the antiquary, by Mytens (how it came here I 
know not); Sir Hans Sloane, by Kneller ; Dr. Birch, by Wills, 
the original of the mezzotint done by Faber in 1741, be¬ 
queathed by Birch; Martin Folkes, by Hogarth', Dr. Wollas¬ 
ton, by Jackson; Sir Humphry Davy, by Sir T. Lawrence. 
Obsen've also. —The mace of silver gilt (similar to the maces 
of the Lord Chancellor, the Speaker, and President of the 
College of Physicians), presented to the Society by Charles 11. 
in 1662. The belief so long entertained that it was the 
mace or “ bauble,” as Cromwell called it, of the Long Parlia¬ 
ment, has been completely refuted by the ori^al warrant 
of the year 1662, for the special making of this very mace. 


194 


XXI.—SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES. 


—A solar dial, made by Sir Isaac Newton when a boy; a 
reflecting telescope, made in 1671, by Newton’s own bands ; 
MS. of the Pi’incipia, in NeAvton’s own hand-writing; lock 
of Newton’s hair, silver white; MS. of the Parentalia, by 
young Wren; Charter Book of the Society, bound in 
crimson velvet, containing the signatures of the Founder 
and Fellows; a Rumford fire-place, one of the first set 
up; original model of Sir Humphiy Davy’s Safety Lamp, 
made by his own hands; marble bust of Mrs. Somerville, by 
Chantrey. The Society possesses a Donation Fund, esta¬ 
blished to aid men of science in their researches, and distributes 
four medals : a Rumford gold medal, two Royal medals, and 
a Copley gold medal, called by Davy “the ancient olive 
crown of the Royal Society.” The Society removed from 
Somerset House to Burlington House in 1856. 

SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES has apartments in New 
Burlington House, W. side, since 1871, when it migrated 
from Somerset House. The Society was founded in 1707, 
by Wanley, Bagfoi’d, Stukely, Vertue, Brown Willis, and 
a Mr. Talman. George II., in 1751, granted them a chai’ter ; 
and in 1777, George III. gave them the apartments they still 
occupy. The terms at present are, 5 guineas admission, and 
2 guineas annually. Members are elected by ballot on the 
recommendation of at least three Fellows. The letters F.S. A, 
ai’e generally appended to the names of members. Their 
Transactions, called the Archaeologia, commence in 1770. 
Days of meeting, every Thursday at 8, from November to 
June. Anniversary meeting, April 23rd. The Society pos¬ 
sesses a Library and Museum. Observe. —Household Book 
of Jocky of Noi’folk.—A large and interesting Collection of 
Early Proclamations, interspersed with Early Ballads, many 
unique.—T. Porter’s Map of London (temp. Chardes I.), once 
thought to be unique.—A folding Picture on Panel of the 
Preaching at Old St. Paul’s in 1616.—Early Portraits of 
Edward IV., Marchioness of York, his sister, and Richard III. 
—Of Mary I., with the monogram of Lucas de Heere, and the 
date 1554.—Portrait of Marquis of Winchester (d. 1571).— 
Portrait by Sir Antonio More of his master John Schoreel, 
the Flemish painter. — Of General Fleetwood. — Portraits 
of Antiquaries : Burton, the Leicestershire antiquary; Peter 
le Neve ; Humphrey Wanley; Baker, of St. John’s College ; 
William Stukeley; George Vertue; Edward, Earl of Oxford, 
presented by Vertue.—A Bohemian Astronomical Clock of 
Gilt Brass, made by Jacob Zech in 1525, for Sigismund, King 
of Poland, and bought at the sale of the effects of James Fer¬ 
guson, the astronomer.—Spur of Brass Gilt, found on Towton 
Field, the scene of the conflict between Edward IV. and the 


XXI.—ROYAL ACADEMY. 


195 


Lancastrian Forces. Upon the shanks is engraved the fol- 
leaving posy:— “ru Total amohr tout mon con*.” For 
admission to the Museum apply by letter to the Secretary. 

THE ASTRONOMICAL SOCIETY, founded 1820, by 
Rev. Dr. Pearson, Francis Bailey, Professor Airy, Captain 
W. H. Smyth, consists of 500 members. 

THE LINN^AN SOCIETY, an offset from the Royal 
Society, was founded for the study of Natural History, 1788, 
by Sir Jos. Banks, Robert Brown, &c. It has a good Library 
and Collections of Natural History, including the Herbaria 
of Linnaeus and of Sir J. E. Smith. 

ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS, Burlington House, 
Piccadilly, (removed, 1868-69, from Trafalgar Square). 
In 1868 Old Burlington House was granted on a lease of 999 
years, at a nominal rent, to the Royal Academy, in exchange 
for the rooms they previously occupied in Trafalgar Square. 
The Council Room, Ofl&ce, Schools of Drawing, &c., are in 
this building, while in the rear of it a very suitable and 
grand Gallery, or range of 13 Halls, was erected, 1868-69, 
from designs of Sydney Smirke, for the Annual Exhibition 
of Modern Artists in Painting and Sculpture. Besides a 
Central Octagon for Sculpture it includes a Great Room 
where the Annual Banquet is held, and a Theatre for Lec¬ 
tures and for Distribution of Prizes, all on the fir.^t floor. 
The basement is devoted to Schools of Art, for male and 
female Students, &c. 

The Royal Academy was constituted 1768. Its principal 
objects are—1. The establishment of a well-regulated 
“School, or Academy of Design,” for the gratuitous in¬ 
struction of students in the art; and, 2. An “ annual exhi¬ 
bition,” open to all artists of distinguished merit, where 
they may offer their performances to public inspection, 
and acquire that degree of reputation and encouragement 
which they may be deemed to deserve. It is “a private 
society, supporting a school that is open to the public,” 
from its own resources, without any grant of public 
money. The members are under the superintendence 
and control of the Queen only, who confirms all appoint¬ 
ments ; and the society itself consists of 42 Royal Acade¬ 
micians (including a President), at least 20 Associates, and 
6 Associate Engravers. The Royal Academy derives the 
whole of its funds from the produce of its annual exhibition, 
to which the price of admission is Is., and the catalogue Is. 
The average annual receipts are 6000Z. 

The’annual Exhibition of Pictures hy Living Artists opens 

o 2 


196 


XXI.—ROYAL ACADEMY. 


the first Monday in May, and works intended for exhibition 
must be sent in a month before. No works which have 
been already exhibited; no copies of any kind (excepting 
paintings on enamel); no mere transcripts of the objects of 
natural history; no vignette portraits, nor any drawings 
without backgrounds (excepting architectural designs), can 
be received. No artist is allowed to exhibit more than 
8 different works. Honorary exhibitore (or unprofessional 
artists) are limited to one. All works sent for exhi¬ 
bition are submitted to the approval or rejection of the 
Council, whose decision is final, and may be ascertained by 
application at the Academy in the week after they have been 
left there. The Exhibition closes the end of July. 

Winter Exhibition of Old Masters. In 1869 the Royal 
Academy Council wisely determined to open their handsome 
Hall in January and February, for an Exhibition of the Art 
Treasures in Painting, belonging to private persons in Great 
Britain, which are liberally lent for the purpose of being 
shown to the public. Few exhibitions of the year exceed 
this in interest. No country in the world can show, year 
after year, such precious master-pieces of painting. 

Admission of Students .—Any person desiring to become 
a student of the Royal Academy presents a drawing or 
model of his own performance to the keeper, which, if con¬ 
sidered by him a proof of sufficient ability, is laid before the 
Council, together with a testimony of his moral character, 
from an Academician, or other known person of respectability. 
If these are approved by the Council, the candidate is per¬ 
mitted to make a drawing or model from one of the antique 
figures in the Academy, and the space of three months from 
the time of receiving such permission is allowed for that 
purpose ; the time of his attendance is from 10 o’clock in the 
mox’ning until 3 in the afternoon. This drawing or model, 
when finished, is laid before the Council, accompanied with 
outline drawings of an anatomical figure and skeleton, not less 
than two feet high, with lists and references, on each drawing, 
of the several muscles, tendons, and bones contained therein, 
together with the drawing or model originally presented for 
his admission as a probationer: if approved, the candidate is 
accepted as a student of the Royal Academy, and receives in 
form the ticket of his admission from the hand of the keeper 
in the Antique School. If the specimen presented be I’ejected 
by the Council, he is not allowed to continue drawing in the 
Academy. The rule for architectural students is of a like 
character. 

The first president was Sir Joshua Reynolds—the present 
president is Sir Francis Grant. The election of Associates 


XXI.—ROYAL ACADEMY OF MUSIC. 


197 


takes place iu January, of Academicians in June and De¬ 
cember; and the 10th of December is the day for the annual 
distribution of prizes. The Royal Academy possesses a fine 
library of books and prints, open to the students, and a 
large collection of casts from the antique, and several 
interesting pictures by old masters. Each member on his 
election presents a picture, or a work of art, of his own 
design and execution, to the collection of the Academy. 
The sei'ies thus obtained, so interesting in the history of 
British art, contains Portraits of Sir William Chambers, the 
architect, of George III., and of Reynolds in his Doctor’s 
Robes, by Reynolds (all very fine); Boys digging for a rat, by 
Sir David Wilkie. Other Works of Art. —1. Cartoon of the 
Holy Family, in black chalk, by L. Da Vinci ; executed with 
extreme care, the Holy Virgin is represented on the lap 
of St. Anne, her mother; she bends down tenderly to the 
infant Christ, who plays with a lamb. 2. Bas-relief, in 
marble, of the Holy Family, by Michael Angelo ; presented 
by Sir George Beaumont. St. John is presenting a dove 
t() the child Jesus, who shrinks from it and shelters 
himself in the arms of his mother, who seems gently re¬ 
proving St. John for his hastiness, and putting him back 
with her hand. The child is finished and the mother in 
great part: the St. John is only sketched, but iu a most 
masterly style. 3. Copy, in oil, of Da Vinci’s Last Supper 
(size of the original), by Marco (ffOggione, perhaps represents 
more exactly Leonardo’s grand design than the original 
itself in its present mutilated state at Milan. This was 
formerly in the Certosa at Pavia. 4. A very fine Giorgione, 
a fresco by Pavl Veronese. 5. Marble bust of Wilton, the 
sculptor, by Roubiliac. Admission to view these pictures, 
&c., is obtained by a written application to the keeper. 

Here will be a Gallery for the exhibition of tlie works 
of Gibson the sculptor, bequeathed by him to the R. A. 
George III. gave rooms to the R. A. on its foundation, 1780, 
in his Palace of Somerset House. They quitted these, 1834. 

ROYAL ACADEMY OF MUSIC, 4, Tenterden Street, 
Hanover Square. Founded (1822) by the late Earl of 
Westmoreland, who confided its organisation and general 
direction to Bochsa, the composer and harpist, at that time 
director to the Italian Opera in liondon. This is an academy, 
with in-door and out-door Students, the in-door paying 50 
guineas a-year and 10 guineas entrance fee ; and the out-door, 
30 guineas a-year and 5 guineas entrance fee. Some previous 
knowledge is required, and the students must provide them¬ 
selves with the instruments they propose or are appointed 
to learn. There is a large Musical Libi’ary. Four scholar- 


198 XXI.—ROYAL COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS. 


ships, called King’s Scholarships, have been founded by the 
Academy, two of which, one male and one female, are con¬ 
tended for annually at Christmas. (See Index, Music.) 

EOYAL COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS, in Pall Mall 
East, corner of Trafalgar Square, was built by Sir R. Smirke, 
for 30,000Z., and opened (25th June, 1825) with a Latin oration 
by Sir Henry Halford. The College was founded by Linacre, 
physician to Henry VIII. The members, at its first institu¬ 
tion, met in the founder’s house in Knightrider Street on the 
site of No. 5, still (by Linacre’s bequest) in the possession of 
the College. (From the founder’s house they moved to 
Amen Coriierwhere Harvey read his lectures on the discovery 
of the circulation of the blood); from thence (1674), after 
the Great Fire, to Warwick Lane (where Wren built them a 
college, pulled down 1866), and from Warwick Lane to the 
present Collation. Observe. —In the gallery above the library 
seven preparations by Harvey, discoverer of the circulation 
of the blood, and a very large number by Dr. Matthew 
Baillie.—The engraved portrait of Harvey, by Jansen ; head 
of Sir Thomas Browne, author of “ Religio Medici; ” Sir 
Theodore Mayerne, physician to James I.; Sir Edmund King, 
the physician who bled King Charles II. in a fit, on his own 
responsibility; head of Dr. Sydenham, by Mary Beale ; Dr. 
Radcliffe, by Kneller; Sir Hans Sloane, by Richardson ; Sir 
Samuel Garth, by Kneller; Dr. Freind; Dr. Mead; Dr. 
Warren, by Gainsborough ; William Hunter; Dr. Heberden. 
Busts. —George IV., by Chantrey (one of his finest); Dr. 
Mead, by Roubiliac; Dr. Sydenham, by Wilton (from the 
picture); Harvey, by Scheemakers (from the picture); Dr. 
Baillie, iDy Chantrey (from a model by Nollekens); Dr. 
Babington, by Behnes. — Dr. Radcliffe’s gold-headed cane, 
successively carried by Drs. Radcliffe, Mead, Askew, Pitcairn, 
and Matthew Baillie, and a clever little picture, by Zoffany, 
of Hunter delivering a lecture on anatomy befoi'e the 
members of the Royal Academy—all portraits. Mode of 
Admission. —Order from a fellow. Almost every physician 
of eminence in London is a fellow. 

ROYAL COLLEGE OF SURGEONS, Lincoln’s Inn 
Fields. See Permanent Free Exhibitions. 

HERALDS’ COLLEGE, or College of Arms, removed 
from Doctors’ Commons, to Victoria Street, Blackfriars. 
Here is the Earl Marshal’s Office, once an important court, 
but now of little consequence. It was sometime called 
the Court of Honour, and took cognisance of Avords 
supposed to reflect upon the nobility. The College con¬ 
sists of 3 Kings—Garter, Clarencieux, and Norroy; of 6 


XXI.—heralds’ college. 


199 


Heralds—Lancaster, Somerset, Eichmond, Windsor, York, 
and Chester; and of 4 Pursuivants—Rouge Croix, Blue 
Mantle, Portcullis, and Rouge Dragon. The several ap¬ 
pointments are in the gift of the Duke of Norfolk, as 
hereditary Earl Marshal. Celebrated Officers of the College. 
— William Camden, Clarencieiu; Sir William Dugdale, 
Carter ; Elias Ashmole, founder of the Ashmolean Museum 
at Oxford, Windsor Herald; Francis Sandford, author of 
the Genealogical History of England, Lancaster Herald; 
John Anstis, Garter; Sir John Vanbrugh, the poet, Claren- 
cieux; Francis Grose, author of Grose’s Antiquities, Lick- 
mond Herald; William Oldys, Norroy King at Arms; 
Lodge (“ Lodge’s Portraits”), Clarencieux. Two escutcheons, 
one bearing the arms (and legs) of the Isle of Man, and the 
other the eagle’s claw, ensigns of the house of Stanley, still 
to be seen on the S. side of the quadrangle, denote the site 
of old Derby House, in which the Heralds were located before 
the Great Fire of London. Observe. —Sword, dagger, and 
turquoise ring, belonging to James IV. of Scotland, who fell 
at Flodden-field, presented to the college by the Duke of 
Norfolk, temp. Charles II. 

“They produce a better evidence of James’s death than the iron belt 
—the monarch’s sword and dagger, which are still preserved in the 
Heralds’ College in London."— Sir Walter Scott {Note to Marmion). 

Portrait of Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury (the great warrior), 
from his tomb in old St. Paul’s. Roll of Arms (temp. Henry 
III.), copied 1586 by Glover {Somerset Herald), and said to be 
the earliest record we possess relative to English Heraldry. 
The arms are blazoned or described in words, not pictured. 
Roll of the Tournament holden at Westminster, in lionour 
of Queen Katherine, upon the birth of Prince Henry (1510): 
a most curious roll, engraved in the Monumenta Vetusta, 
Vol. I.—The Rous or Warwick roll: a series of figures of all 
the Earls of Warwick, from the Conquest to the reign of 
Richard III., executed by Rous, the antiquary of Warwick, 
at the close of the fifteenth century.—Pedigree of the Saxon 
Kings, from Adam, illustrated with many beautiful drawings in 
pen-and-ink (temp. Henry VIII.) of the Creation, Adam 
and Eve in Paradise, the Building of Babel, Rebuilding of the 
Temple, &c.—MSS., consisting chiefly of Herald’s visitations; 
records of grants of arms and royal licences; records of 
modern pedigi’ees (i. e. since the discontinuance of the visita¬ 
tions in 1687); a most valuable collection of official funeral 
certificates; a portion of the Arundel MSS.; the Shrewsbury 
or Cecil papers, from which Lodge derived his Illustrations 
of British History; notes, &c., made by Glover, Vincent, 
Philipot, and Dugdale; a volume in the handwriting of the 


200 XXI.—INSTITUTION 01’ ENGINEERS—ARCHITECTS. 


venerable Camden ; the collections of Sir Edward Walker, 
Secretary at War (temp. Charles L). 

INSTITUTION OF CIVIL ENGINEERS, 25, Great 
George Street, Westminster. Established 1818; incor¬ 
porated 1828. The Institution consists of Members resident 
in London, paying 4 guineas annually, and Members not 
resident, 3 guineas annually ; of Associates i-esident in London, 
paying 3 guineas annually, and Associates not resident, 2^ 
guineas ; of Graduates resident in London, paying 2^ guineas 
annually, and Graduates not resident, 2 guineas; and of 
Honorary Members. The ordinary General Meetings are 
held every Tuesday at 8 p.m., from the second Tuesday in 
January to the end of June. The first president was Thomas 
Telford (1820-34); the second, James Walker (1835-45); tlie 
third. Sir John Rennie ; and the present one, J. M. Ren die. 
Esq. Observe .—Portrait of Thomas Telford, engineer of the 
Menai Bridge, and President of the Institution for 14 years. 

ROYAL INSTITUTE OF BRITISH ARCPIITECTS, 16, 
Lower Grosvenor Street, Grosvenor Square. Founded 
1834, for the advancement of architecture, and incorporated 
1837. There are three classes of Members :—1. Fellows: archi¬ 
tects engaged as principals for at least seven years in the 
practice of civil architectui’c. 2. Associates : persons engaged 
in the study of civil architecture, or in pi’actice less than seven 
years, and who have attained the age of 21. 3. Honorary 

Fellows. The Meetings are held every alternate Monday at 
8 P.M., from the first Monday in November till the end of 
June inclusive. Associate’s admission fee, 1 guinea; Fellow’s 
admission fee, 5 guineas. There is a good library of books 
on architecture. 

THE ARCHITECTURAL MUSEUM of this Institute 
is in Bowling St., Dean’s Yard, Westminster. It con¬ 
sists of collections of Casts and Specimens. 

ROYAL INSTITUTION OF GREAT BRITAIN, a 
Library, Reading, and Lecture Room, 21, Albemarle 
Street, Piccadilly. Established 1791), at a meeting held 
at the house of Sir Joseph Banks, for diffusing the knowledge 
and facilitating the general introduction of useful mechanical 
inventions and improvements, &c. Count Rumford was its 
earliest promoter. The front—a row of Corinthian columns 
half-engaged—was designed by Mr. Vulliamy, architect, from 
the Custom House at Rome; and what before was little better 
than a perforated brick wall, was thus converted into an 
ornamental facade. Here is an excellent library of general 
reference, and a good reading room, with weekly courses 
of lectures, throughout the season, on Chemical Science 


XXT.—ROYAL INSTITUTION. 


201 


Philosophy, Physiology, Literature, Art, &c. Members (can¬ 
didates to be proposed by four members) are elected by 
ballot, and a majority of two-thirds is necessary for election. 
The admission fee is 5 guineas, and the annual subscription 
5 guineas. Subscribers to the Theatre Lectures only, or to 
the Laboratory Lectures only, pay 2 guineas; subscribers 
to both pay 3 guineas for the season ; subscribers to a single 
course of the Theatre Lectures pay 1 guinea. A syllabus 
of each course may be obtained of the Secretary at the 
Institution. The Friday Evening Meetings (84 to lOA p-m.), 
at which some eminent person is invited to deliver a 
popular lecture on some subject connected with science, 
art, or literature, are well attended. Non-subscribers may 
be admitted to them by a ticket signed by a member. In 
the Laboratory, Davy made his great discoveries on the 
metallic bases of the earths, aided by the large galvanic 
apparatus of the establishment. Hence sprung also Fara¬ 
day’s remarkable researches. 

SOCIETY OF ARTS, in John Street, Adelphi, an old 
society, for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures, &c., 
by the Distribution of Prizes, delivery of Lectures, &c., is 
trying to regain strength and to accomplish greater good 
than it seems likely to effect. Many of the directors were 
energetic promoters of the Great International Exhibi¬ 
tions, in 1851 and 1862. In the Great Room are temporary 
exhibitions of manufactures, and six pictures by James 
'Barry, painted 1777-83, and creditable to the then state of 
art in England. 

ROYAL SOCIETY OF LITERATURE, 4, St. Martin’s 
Place, Charing Cross. Founded in 1823, “ for the advance¬ 
ment of literature,” and incorporated 1826. George IV. gave 
1100 guineas a-year to this Society, which has the merit of 
rescuing the last years of Coleridge’s life from complete 
dependence on a friend, and of placing the learned Dr. 
Jamieson above the wants and necessities of a man fast sink¬ 
ing to the grave. The annual grant of 1100 guineas was dis¬ 
continued by William IV., and the Society has since sunk into 
a Transaction Society, with a small but increasing library. 

LONDON INSTITUTION, Finsbury Circus, Moor- 
fields. A proprietary institution, established in 1806, 
in Sir AVilliam Clayton’s house, Old Jewry. The first 
stone of the present edifice was laid May 4, 1815, and the 
building (which is handsome and very suitable to its pur¬ 
pose) was opened 1819. Architect, W. Brooks, who also 
built Finsbury Chapel, &c. The library, consisting of up¬ 
wards of 60,000 volumes, is particularly rich in topogra- 


202 XXI.—LEARNED SOCIETIES.—LIBRARIES. 


phical works. The collector and antiquary, William Upcott, 
was one of its librarians. 

EOYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, Saville Row, 
established 1830, for the improvement and diffusion of 
geographical knowledge. Elections by ballot. Entrance 
fee, 3^.; annual subscription, 21. There is a good geogra¬ 
phical library, and large collection of maps. Under Sir 
Roderick I. Murchison, as President, it has become the most 
popular and instructive society in London. Meetings where 
papers on geographical discoveries are read in the spacious 
theatre of the University of London, Burlington Gardens— 
every other Monday, from November to July, at 8 p.m. 

ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY, 22, Albemarle Street, 
(founded 1823,) contains an extensive and valuable library of 
Oriental works and MSS. The Society usually meets on the 
1st and 3rd Saturdays in every month, from Nov. to June in¬ 
clusive. Admission fee, 5 guas.; annual subscription, 2 guas. 

SION COLLEGE. A Hall, Library, and Almshouse, 
close to St. Alphage, and to almost the only fragment left 
of London Wall, was founded temp. Charles I., to provide a 
home for a few Bedesmen, and a reading-room for the bene- 
ficed clergy of London. At the time of the Civil Wars the 
Puritan divines met within its walls. The Library is large 
and curious, chiefly occupied by Divinity. 

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY, South Ken¬ 
sington, Exhibition Road, opposite to the South Kensing¬ 
ton Museum, has here an Ornamental and Experimental 
Garden, laid out at a cost of 70,000^., including a Hall, 
where meetings and flower exhibitions ai’e held. On the N. 
rises a gi’eat Glass Winter Garden and other conservatories, 
elegant parterres varied with shrubberies, and single trees 
transplanted from a distance. The whole is surrounded by 
a colonnade and cloister of good architectural design; finished, 
1861, at the cost of the Government, who agreed to expend 
on it 50,000Z. The grounds were laid out byNesfield; the 
buildings designed by Digby Wyatt. Their extent is 22 
acres, forming part of the Kensington Gore estate, purchased 
out of the surplus fund arising from the Great Exhibition 
of 1851. The Society retains an Experimental Garden at 
Chiswick. Each Fellow can introduce personally two friends 
to the Garden at S. Kensington, except on Exhibition 
Days. Open daily 9 to dusk. Sundays from 2 p.m. 

The Statistical Society, 12, St. James’s Square ; and Ethno¬ 
logical Society. There are also Societies for printing books 
connected with particular subjects, such as the Camden and 
Hakluyt, and The Arundel, Old Bond Street, for engra^dng 
the woi'ks of early Italian and German masters. 


XXI.—ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 


203 


The Patent-Office Library, Southampton Buildings, 40,000 
vols., perhaps the finest collection of Scientific Works in 
Britain, is open free to the Public daily. , 

At No. 12, St, James’s Square, ^is the admirably managed. 
London Library, a public subscription Circulating Library, 

of valuable standard works, possessing 60,000 volumes_ 

entrance fee, Ql.-, annual subscription, 21. There is a printed 
catalogue of the library. 



XXII.-COLLEGES AND SCHOOLS. 

UNIVERSITY OF LONDON, Burlington Gardens, 
between Bond Street and Regent Street, is a Board of Ex¬ 
aminers, paid by Government, established 1837, for con¬ 
ferring degrees on graduates of various Colleges in London 















































204 XXII.—UNIVERSITY—UNIVERSITY COLLEGE. 

and elsewhere, previously matriculated at this Uuiversity. 
In the words of its Chartei’, it is established ‘‘for the ad¬ 
vancement of religion and morality, and the promotion of 
useful knowledge without distinction of rank, sect, or pai*ty.” 
There are several scholarships attached, each with 501. a year. 
The salary of the Eegistrar and Treasurer is 500?. a year. 
The institute has nothing to do with the business of education, 
being constituted for the sole purpose of ascertaining the pro¬ 
ficiency of candidates for academical distinctions. The exami¬ 
nations, including those for Matriculation, occur twice a year. 

The Buildinr/ is one of the handsomest and most original 
modern edifices in London, completed 1869, from designs 
of Pennethorne. Its bold and picturesquely varied Palladian 
fa 9 ade is decorated with statues. Over the portico Milton, 
Newton, Hervey, and Bentham, English representatives of 
the 4 faculties, by Durham. Along the central cornice 6 An¬ 
cient Philosophers : on the E. wing Galileo, Laplace, Goethe, 
by Wyon; Cuvier, Leibnitz, and Linnaeus, by Mac Doicell: 
on the W. wing —Locke, Bacon, Adam Smith, by IF. Theecl; 
Hume, Hunter, Sir H. Davy, by M. Noble. The building 
contains a Theatre, Examination Booms, Council Rooms, &c. 
The Library though of recent foi'mation is large and rich in 
works of science and classical literature, chiefly owing to the 
liberal donations of Lord Overstone, and the late George 
Grote, histoi’ian of Greece. 

UNIVERSITY COLLEGE, London, on the east side of 
Upper Gower Street. A proprietary institution, “ for the 
general advancement of literature and science, by affording 
to young men adequate opportunities for obtaining literary 
and scientific education at a moderate expense;” founded 
(1828) by the exertions of Lord Brougham, Thomas Campbell, 
the poet, and others, and built from the designs of AY. 
Wilkins, R.A., architect of the National Galleiy. Eveiything 
is taught in the College but divinity. The school of medicine 
is deservedly distinguished. The Junior School, under the 
government of the Council of the College, is entered by a 
separate entrance in Upper Gower Street. The hours of 
attendance are from a quarter past 9 to three-quarters 
past 3; in which time one hour and a quainter is allowed 
for recreation. The yearly pay^ment for each pupil is 18?. 
The subjects taught are reading, writing; the English, 
Latin, Greek, French, and German languages; Ancient and 
English history; geography; arithmetic and book-keeping, 
the elements of mathematics and of natural philosophy. 
The discipline of the school is maintained without corporal 
punishment. Several of the professors, and some of the mas- 
tePS, receive students to reside with them ; and in the office 


XXII.—FLAXMAN MUSEUM — KINU’s COLLEGE. 205 


of the College there is kept a register of parties \iiiconnected 
with the College who receive boarders into their families: 
among these are several medical gentlemen. The Kegistrar 
will afford information as to terms, and other particulars. 

The FLaxman JSLuseum .—In the hall under the cupola of 
the College the original models are preserved of the prin¬ 
cipal works, monuments, bas-reliefs, statues, &c., of John 
Flaxman, R.A,, the greatest of our English sculptors. The 
Pastoral Apollo, the St. Michael, and some of the bas-reliefs, 
are amazingly fine. The clever portrait statue in marble of 
Flaxman, by the late M. L. Watson, purchased by public 
subscription, is placed on the stairs as you enter the 
Gallery. A fine collection of Flaxman’s original drawings is 
well displayed. The whole deserves the attention of every 
lover of art. In the cloister below is another fine work of art, 
in marble niello, the outline coloured, of subjects from Homer. 
The artist is Baron de Tnqueti, of Paris. Mr. Grote, the 
historian, presented this Marmor Ilomencum to the college. 

Open on Saturdays. Tickets given at the Lodge on 
presenting a card. 

•KING’S COLLEGE AND SCHOOL. A proprietary in¬ 
stitution, occupying the east wing of Somerset House, which 
was built up to receive it, having been before left incomplete. 
The College was founded in 1828, upon the following funda¬ 
mental principle:—“ That every system of general education 
for the youth of a Chi-istian community ought to comprise 
instruction in the Christian religion as an indispensable part, 
without which the acquisition of other branches of knowledge 
will be conducive neither to the happiness of the individual 
nor the welfare of the state.” The general education of the 
College is carried on in five departments:—1. Theological 
Department; 2. Department of General Literature and 

Science; 3. Department of the Applied Sciences ; 4. Medical 
Depaiiiment; 5. Department of Evening Classes; 6. The 
School. Eveiy person wishing to place a pupil in the school 
must produce, to the head-master, a certificate of good con¬ 
duct, signed by his last instructor. The general age for 
admission is from 9 to 16 years of age. Rooms are provided 
within the walls of the College for the residence of a 
limited number of matriculated students. Each proprietor 
has the privilege of nominating two pupils to the School, 
or one to the School and one to the College at the same 
time. The Museum contains the Calculating Machine of 
Mr. Babbage, deposited by the Commissioners of the Woods 
and Forests; and the collection of Mechanical Models and 
Philosophical Instruments formed by George III., presented 
by Queen Victoria. 


206 xxii.—ST. Paul’s school. 

ST. PAUL’S SCHOOL. On the E. side of St. Paul’s 
Churchyard, founded in 1512, for 153 poor men’s children, 
by Dr. John Colet, Dean of St. Paul’s, the friend of Eras¬ 
mus, and son of Sir Henry Colet, mercer, and Mayor of 
London in 1486 and 1495. The boys were to be taught, 
free of expense, by a master, sur-master, and chaplain, and 
the oversight of the school was committed by the founder 
to the Mercers’ Company. The number is limited to 153, 
the number of fishes taken by St. Peter. The school was 
dedicated by Colet to the Child Jesus, but the saint, as 
Strype remarks, has robbed his master of his title. The 
lands left by Colet to support his school were estimated, 
in 1598, at the yearly value of about 120Z. Their present 
value is upwards of 5000Z. The education is entirely clas¬ 
sical, and the presentations to the school are in the gift 
of the Master of the Mercers’ Company for the time being. 
Scholars are admitted at the age of 15, but at present none 
are eligible to an exliibition if entered after 12; and none 
are expected to remain in the school after their nineteenth 
birthday, though no time for superannuation is fixed by the 
statutes. The head-master’s salary is 618Z. per annum ; the 
sur-master’s, 307^.; the under-master’s, 272?.; and the 
assistant-master’s, 257?. Lilly, the grammarian, and friend 
of Erasmus, was the first master, and the grammar which he 
compiled, is still used. Eminent Scholars .—John Leland, 
our earliest English antiquary; John Milton, the great 
epic poet of our nation; the gi’eat Duke of Marlborough ; 
Nelson, author of Fasts and Festivals; Edmund Halley, 
the astronomer; Samuel Pepys, the diarist; John Strype, 
the ecclesiastical historian; Lord Chancellor Truro and Sir 
Frederick Pollock, Chief Baron. The present school was built 
in 1823, from a design by Mr. George Smith, and is the third 
building erected, on the same site. Colet’s school was de¬ 
stroyed in the Great Fire, but built up again,” says Strype, 
^'much after the same manner and proportion it was before.” 

WESTMINSTER SCHOOL, or St. Peter’s College, Dean’s 
Yard, Westminster, founded as “a publique schoole for 
Grammar, Rethoricke, Poetrie, and for the Latin and Greek 
languages,” by Queen Elizabeth, 1560, and attached to the 
collegiate church of St. Peter at Westminster. The College 
consists of a dean, 12 prebendaries, 12 almsmen, and 40 
scholars; with a master and an usher. This is the founda¬ 
tion, but the school consists of a larger number of masters, 
and of a much larger number of boys. The 40 are called ^ 
Queen’s scholars, and after an examination, which takes 
place on the first Tuesday after Rogation Sunday, 4 are 
elected to Trinity College, Cambridge, and 4 to Christ Church, 



XXII.—CHARTER HOUSE. 


207 


Oxford. A parent wishing to place a boy at this school will 
get every necessary information from the head master; boys 
are not placed on the foundation under 12 or above 13 years 
of age. Eminent Masters. —Camden, the antiquary; Dr. 
Busby; Vincent Bourne; Jordan (Cowley has a copy of 
verses on his death). Eminent Men educated at. — Poets: Ben 
Jonson ; George Herbert; Giles Fletcher; Jasper Mayne ; 
William Cartwright; Cowley, who published a volume of 
poems while a scholar; Dry den; Nat Lee; Rowe; Prior; 
Churchill; Dyer, author of Grongar Hill; Cowper; Southey. 
Other great Men. —Sir Harry Vane, the younger; Hakluyt, 
the collector of the Voyages which bear his name; Sir 
Christopher Wren; Locke ; South ; Atterbury; Warren 
Hastings; Gibbon, the historian; Cumberland; the elder 
Colman; Lord John Russell. The boys on the foundation 
were formerly separated from the town boys when in school 
by a bar or cm’tain. The Schoolroom was a dormitory 
belonging to the Abbey, and retains certain traces of its 
former ornaments. The name “Shell” arose from an 
apsidal recess at one end of it. The College Hall, originally 
the Abbot’s Refectory, was built by Abbot Litlingtou, in 
the reign of Edward III., and the old louvre is still used 
for the escape of the smoke. The Dormitory was rebuilt 
by the Earl of Burlington, in 1722. In conformity with 
the old custom, the Queen’s scholars perform a play of 
Terence every year at Christmas, with a Latin prologue and 
epilogue relating to current events. 

CHARTER HOUSE, (a corruption of Chartreuse,) upper 
end of Aldersgate Street. “An hospital, chapel, and 
school-house,” founded, 1611, by Thomas Sutton, of Camps 
Castle, Cambridge, for the free education of 40 poor 
boys and for the sustenance of 80 ancient gentlemen, 
captains, and others, brought to distress by shipwrecks, 
wounds, or other reverse of fortune. It was so called 
from a priory of Carthusian monks, founded in 1371 on 
a Pest-house field by Sir Walter Manny, knight, Lord of 
the town of Manny, in the diocese of Cambray, and knight 
of the garter in the reign of Edward III. The last prior 
was executed at Tyburn, May 4th, 1535—his head set on 
London Bridge, and one of his limbs over the gateway 
of his own convent—the same gateway, it is said, a Per¬ 
pendicular arch, which is still the entrance from Charter- 
House Square. The priory thus sternly dissolved, was sold 
by Thomas Howard, Earl of Suffolk, to Thomas Sutton for 
13,000?., and endowed as a charity by the name of “the 
Hospital of King James.” Sutton died before his work 
was complete, and was buried in the chapel of the hos« 


208 


XXII.—CHARTER HOUSE. 


pital beneath a sumptuous monument, the woi’k of Nicholas 
Stone and Mr. Jansen of Southwark. This ‘‘triple good,” 
as Lord Bacon calls it — this “masterpiece of Protestant 
English charity,” as it is called by Fuller — is under the 
direction of the Queen, 15 governors, selected from the 
great officers of state, and the master of the hospital, whose 
income is 800Z. a year, besides a capital residence ^vithil^ 
the walls. The most eminent master of the house was Dr. 
Thomas Burnet, author of the Theoiy of the Earth, master 
between 1685 and 1715; and the most eminent school¬ 
master, the Kev. Andrew Tooke (Tooke’s Pantheon). Emi~ 
nent Scholars .—Richard Crashaw, the poet, author of Steps 
to the Temple.—Isaac BaiTOAv, the divine; he was cele¬ 
brated at school for his love of fighting.—Sir William Black- 
stone, author of the Commentai’ies.—Joseph Addison and 
Sir Richard Steele were scholars at the same time.—John 
AVesley, who imputed his after-health and long life to the 
strict obedience with which he performed an injunction of 
his father’s, that he should run round the Charter House 
playing-green three times every morning.—The first Lord 
Ellenborough (Lord Chief Justice). — Loi’d Liverpool (the 
Prime Minister). — Bishop Monk.—AV. M. Thackeray. — Sir 
C. L. Eastlake, P.R. A.—The two eminent historians of Greece, 
Bishop Thirlwall and George Grote, Esq., were both together 
in the same form under Dr. Raine.—General Sir Henry 
Havelock.—John Leech, the genial artist and illustrator of 
Punch. Poor Brethren. —Elkanah Settle, the rival and an¬ 
tagonist of Dry den ; he died here in 1723-4.—John Bagford, 
the antiquary (d. 1716); was originally a shoemaker in Turn¬ 
stile.—Isaac de Groot,by several descents the nephew of Hugo 
Grotius ; he was admitted at the earnest intercession of Dr. 
Johnson.—Alexander Macbean (d. 1784), Johnson’s assistant 
in his Dictionary. Observe. —The great hall; parts of old 
Howard House (for such it was once called), with the initials 
T. N. (Thomas, Duke of Norfolk); the great staircase; the 
governor’s room, with its panelled chimney-piece, ceiling, and 
ornamental tapestry ; the chapel (repaired in 1842 under the 
direction of Blore); the founder, Sutton’s tomb in the chapel. 
On opening the vault in 1842, the body was discovered in a 
coffin of lead, adapted to the shape of the body, like an 
Egyptian mummy-case. Chief Justice Ellenborough is buried 
by the side of Sutton. In the Master’s lodge are several excel¬ 
lent portraits: the founder, engraved by Vertue for BearcrofL’s 
book; Isaac AValton’s good old Bishop Morley; Charles II.; 
Villiers, second Duke of Buckingham; Duke of Monmouth ; 
Lord Chancellor Shaftesbuiy; AATlliam, Earl of Craven (the 
Queen of Bohemia’s Earl); Sheldon, Archbishop of Canterbury; 


' XXII.—Christ’s hospital. 


209 


Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham; Talbot, Duke of Shrewsbury; 
Lord Chancellor Somers; and one of Kneller's finest works, 
the portrait of Dr. Thomas Burnet. The foundation scholars, 
44 in number, are presented by the governors in rotation, 
and are admitted at any age between 10 and 14. They are 
supported free of expense, that of £5 a-year for washing 
excepted. The value of a presentation to a boy entering at 
ten is estimated at one thousand pounds. The income of 
the Charter House, was in 1853-4, £28,908 7s. 7^d., arising 
from Estates in Cambridgeshire, Essex, Wilts, and Lincoln, 
and from funded property. 

The atmosphere of the city not being congenial to boyish 
nature and the confinement within walls being detrimental 
to health, the school was removed, 1872, to Godaiming in 
Surrey, where a handsome edifice, on a grand site, has been 
erected from Ph. Hardwick’s designs. The old school and play- 
green were sold, 1867, to the Merchant Taylors’ Company 
for their school for 90,000Z. The old Pensioners remain. 

CHRIST’S HOSPITAL, Newgate Street, marked by its 
great hall, visible through a double railing from Newgate Street. 
This noble charity was founded on the site of the Grey Friars 
Monastery, by Edward VI., June 26th, 1553, ten days before his 
death, as an hospital for poor fatherless children and found¬ 
lings. It is commonly called ^‘The Blue Coat School,” 
from the dress worn by the boys, which is of the same 
age as the foundation of the hospital. The dress is a 
blue coat or gown, a yellow petticoat, a red leather girdle 
round the waist, yellow stockings, a clergyman’s band 
round the neck, and a flat black cap of woollen yarn, about 
the size of a saucer. Blue was a colour originally confined to 
servant-men and boys, nor, till its recognition as part of the 
uniform of the British Navy, was blue ever looked upon as a 
colour to be worn by gentlemen. The first stone of the 
New Hall was laid by the Duke of York, April 28th, 
1825, and the Hall publicly opened May 29th, 1829. The 
architect was James Shaw, who built the church of St. 
Dunstan’s in Fleet Street. It is better in its proportions 
than in its details. Observe .—At the upper end of the Hall, 
a large picture of Edward VI. granting the charter of incor¬ 
poration to the Hospital. It is improperly assigned to 
Holbein. — Large picture, by Yerrw, of James II. on his 
throne (surrounded by his courtiers, all curious portraits), 
receiving the mathematical pupils at their annual presenta¬ 
tion at Court: a custom still kept up. The painter pre¬ 
sented it to the Hospital.—Full-length of Charles II., by 
Yerrio. —Full-length of Sir Francis Child (d. 1713), from 


210 


xxiT.—C hrist’s hospital. 


whom Child’s Baiikiug-hoiise derives its name.—Full-lengths 
of the Queen and Prince Albert, by Francis Grant, P.R.A. 
—Brook Watson, when a boy, attacked by a shark, by J. S. 
Copley, R.A., the father of Lord Lyndhurst.—The stone 
inserted in the wall behind the steward’s chair; when a 
monitor wishes to report the misconduct of a boy, he tells 
him to ‘^go to the stone.” In this Hall, every year on 
St. Matthew’s Day (Sept. 21st), the Grecians, or head-boys, 
deliver a series of orations before the Mayor, Corporation, and 
Governors, and here every Thursday, from Quinquagesima 
Sunday to Good Friday, the ‘^Suppings in Public,” as they are 
called, are held ; a picturesque sight, and always well attended. 
Each governor has tickets to give away. The bowing to the 
president, and procession of the ti-ades, is extremely curious. 

The two chief classes in the school are called “ Grecians ” 
and ''Deputy-Grecians.” Eminent Gi'ecians. —Joshua Barnes 
(d. 1712,) editor of Anacreon and Euripides. Jeremiah Mark- 
land (d. 1776), an eminent critic, paidicularly in Greek 
literature. S. T. Coleridge, the poet (d. 1834). Thomas 
Mitchell, the translator of Aristophanes (d. 1845). Thomas 
Barnes, for many years, and till his death (1841,) editor of the 
Times newspaper. Eminent Deputy-Grecians. —Charles Lamb 
(Elia), whose delightful “Eecollections of Christ’s Hospital,” 
give a special interest to the school (d. 1834). Leigh Himt. 
Eminent Scholars whose standing in the School is xiidcnown .— 
William Camden, author of the ‘^Britannia.” Bishop Stilling- 
fleet. Samuel Richardson, author of “ Clarissa Harlow'e.” 

The Mathematical-school was founded by Charles II., in 1672, 
for forty boys, called “ King’s boys,” distinguished by a badge 
on the right shoulder. The school was afterwards enlarged, at 
the expense of a Mr. Stone. The boys on the new founda¬ 
tion wear a badge on the left shoulder, and are called “ The 
Twelves,” on accocmt of their number. To “ The Twelves ” 
Avas afterwards added The Twos,” on another foundation. 

“ As I ventured to call the Grecians the muftis of the school, the King’s 
hoys, as their character then was, may well pass for the janissaries. 
They Avere the constant terror to the younger part; and some Avho may 
read this, I doubt not, will remember the consternation into which the 
juvenile fry of us were thiwn, when the cry was raised in the cloister 
that ‘ the First Order ’ was coming, for so they tenned the first form or 
class of those boys.”— Charles Lamb. 

The Writing-school was founded in 1694, and furnished at 
the sole charge of Sir John Moore, Lord Mayor in 1681. The 
school has always been famous for its penmen. The Wards 
or Dormitories in which the boys sleep are seventeen in 
number. Each boy makes his own bed; and each Avard is 
governed by a nurse and tAvo or more monitors. 

The Counting-house contains a good portrait of EdAvard VI., 


XXII.—MERCHANT TAYLORS’ SCHOOL. 


211 


after Holbein —very probably by liiin. The dress of the 
boys is not the only remnant of byegone times, peculiar to 
the school. The open ground in front of the Grammar- 
school is still distinguished as '‘the Ditch,” because the 
ditch of the City ran through the precinct. The Spital 
sermons are still preached before the boys. Every Easter 
Monday they visit the Royal Exchange, and every Easter 
Tuesday the Lord Mayor, at the Mansion-house. 

Christ’s Hospital owes nothing to State endowment, and 
its maintenance rests on the Corporation of London and the 
bounty of those who, in consideration of their donations, 
are elected Governors. Mode of Admission .—Boys whose 
parents may not be free of the City of London are ad¬ 
missible on Free Presentations, as they are called, as also 
are the sons of clergymen of the Church of England. The 
Lord Mayor has tw^o presentations annually, and the Court 
of Aldermen one each. The rest of the governors have pre¬ 
sentations once in three years. By right, children whose 
parents have an income of 300Z. a-year are excluded. A 
list of the governors who have presentations for the year 
is printed every Easter, and may be had at the counting- 
house of the Hospital. No boy is admitted before he is 
seven years old, or after he is nine : and no boy can remain 
in the school after he is fifteen—King’s Boys and Grecians 
alone excepted. Qualification for Governor .—Payment of 
600Z. An Alderman has the pow’er of nominating a governor 
for election at half-price. The revenues of the hospital in 
1859 wei’e 63,930^. The number of children varies from 
1200 to 1000; of these 800 are in London, and the rest at 
the Preparatoiy School at Hertford, founded in 1683. The 
management is vested in foundation and donation governors 
who have contributed not less than 200,000^. to its funds. 
The Duke of Cambridge w'as chosen President in 1854, and 
thus for the first time since its foundation has Christ’s 
Hospital been without an Alderman for its President. 

MERCHANT TAYLORS’ SCH00L,inSuFFOLKLANE,inthc 
W'ard of Dowgate, founded in 1561, by the Merchant Tajdors’ 
Company. Sir Thomas White, who had recently founded St. 
J ohn’s College, Oxford, -was then a member of the Court; and 
Richard Hills, master of the Company, gave 50OZ. towards the 
purchase of a portion of a house, called the “ Manor of the 
Rose,” sometime belonging to Stafford Duke of Buckingham. 

“ The Dvike being at the Rose, within the Parish 
St. Lawrence Poultney, did of me demand 
What was the speech among the Londoners 
Concerning the French journey.” 

Shakspeabk.— Henry VIII., Acti., sc. 1, 

P 2 


2i2 XXII.—MERCHANT TAYLORs’ SCHOOL. 

'' The Kose ” had been formerly in the possession of the 
De la Pole or Suffolk family, and was originally built by Sir 
John Poultney, knt., five times Lord Mayor of London, in 
the reign of Edward III. Tx'aces of its successive owners are 
still found in the name of the parish of “ St, Laurence Pount- 
ney” in which the school is situate; in Duck’s-foot-lane” 
(the Duke’s foot-lane, or private road from his garden to the 
river) which is close at hand; and in ‘‘ Suffolk-lane,” by 
which it is approached. The Great Fire destroyed this 
ancient pile. The present school (a brick building with 
pilasters), and the head-master’s residence adjoining, were 
erected in 1675. The former consists of the large upper 
schoolroom, two writing-rooms, formed, in 1829, out of part 
of the cloister; a class-room, and a librai'y (standing in the 
situation of the ducal chapel), stored with a fail’ collection of 
theological and classical works. The school consists of 260 
boys. The charge for education has varied at difiereiit 
periods, but it is now 10^. per annum for each boy. Boys are 
admitted at any age, and may remain until the Monday after 
St. John the Baptist’s Day preceding their 19th birthday. 
Presentations are in the gift of the members of the Court of 
the Company in rotation. Boys who have been entered on 
or below the third form are eligible to all the school prefer¬ 
ments at the Universities; those who have been entered 
higher, only to the exhibitions. The course of education 
since the foundation of the school has embraced Hebrew and 
classical literature; writing, arithmetic, and mathematics 
were introduced in 1829, and French and modern history in 
1846. There is no property belonging to the school, with 
the exception of the buildings above described; and it is 
supported by the Merchant Taylors’ Company out of their 
several “ funds, without any specific fund being set apart for 
that object;” it was, therefore, exempt from the inquii’y of 
the Charity Commissioners; but like Winchester, Eton, and 
Westminster, it has a college almost appropriated to its 
scholars. Thirty-seven out of the fifty fellowships at St. John’s, 
Oxford, founded by Sir Thomas White, belong to Merchant 
Taylors’; 8 exhibitions at Oxford, 6 at Cambridge, and 4 to 
either University, averaging from 30Z. to 70^. per annum, 
besides a multitude of smaller exhibitions, are also attached 
to it. The election to these preferments takes place annually, 
on St. Barnabas’ Day, June 11th, mth the sanction of the 
President or two senior Fellows of St. John’s. This is the 
chief speech-day, and on it the school prizes are distributed; 
but there is another, called the doctors’ day,” in December. 
Plays were formerly acted by the boys of this school, as at 
Westminster. The earliest instance known was in 1665. 


XXII.—CITY OF LONDON SCHOOL, ETC. 


213 


Garrick, who was a personal friend of the then Head-Master 
of his time, was frequently present, and took gi’eat interest 
in the performances. Eminent Men educated at Merchant 
Taylors' School. —Bishop Andrews, Bishop Dove, and Bishop 
Tomson (three of the translators of the Bible): Edwin 
Sandys, the traveller, the friend of Hooker; Bulstrode 
AVhitelocke, author of the Memorials which bear his name ; 
James Shirley, the dramatic poet; the infamous Titus Oates; 
Charles Wheatley, the ritualist; Neale, the author of the 
History of the Puritans; Edmund Calamy, the nonconformist, 
and his grandson of the same name; Edmund Gayton, author 
of the Festivous Notes on Don Quixote; John Byrom, author 
of the Pastoral, in the Spectator, 

“My time, O ye Muses, was happily spent;” 

Luke Milbourne, Dryden’s antagonist; Robert, the celebrated 
Lord Clive; Charles Mathews, the comedian; and Lieut.-Col. 
Dixon Denham, the African traveller. 

CITY OF LONDON SCHOOL, Milk Street, Cheapside, 
established 1835, for the sons of respectable persons engaged 
in professional, commercial, or tS-ading pursuits : and partly 
founded on an income of 900?. a-year, derived from certain 
tenements bequeathed by John Carpenter, town-clerk of 
London, in the reign of Henry V., “for the finding and 
bringing up of four poor men’s children with meat, drink, 
apparel, learning at the schools, in the universities, &c., until 
tliey be preferred, and then others in their places for ever.” 
The school year is divided into 3 terms ; and the charge for 
each pupil is 21. 5s. a term. The printed form of application 
for admission may be had of the secretary, and must be filled 
up by the parent or guardian, and signed by a member of the 
Corporation of London. The general course of instruction 
includes the English, French, German, Latin, and Greek 
languages, writmg, arithmetic, mathematics, book-keeping, 
geography, and history. Besides 8 free scholarships on the 
foundation, equivalent to 35?. per annum each, and available 
as exhibitions to the Universities, there are the following 
exhibitions belonging to the school:—The “ Times ” Scholar¬ 
ship, value 30?. per annum; 3 Beaufoy Scholarships, the 
Salomons Scholarship, and the Travers Scholarship, 50?. per 
annum each ; the Tegg Scholarship, nearly 20?. per annum ; 
and several other valuable prizes. The first stone of the 
School was laid by Lord Brougham, October 21st, 1835. 

THE GOVERNMENT SCHOOL OF DESIGN —South 
Kensington Museum—was established (1837) by the Board 
of Trade for the Improvement of Ornamental Art, with 
regard especially to the staple manufactures of this 


214 


XXIII.—CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 


countiy. Mode of Admission .—The recommendation of a 
householder. The Library of Works of Art and Design is 
very accessible not only to artists but to poor workmen, who 
can take down and consult any illustrated work (and in 
these the library is very rich), however expensive, on pay¬ 
ment of one penny. The course of instruction comprehends 
Elementary drawing, colouring; drawing the figure after en- 
gi’aved copies from casts; painting the figure from casts; geo¬ 
metrical drawing applied to ornament; perspective ; model¬ 
ling from engi’aved copies, design, &c. There is also a class 
for wood-engraving. The greatest number of students of the 
same calling ai’e the ornamental painters and house-decorators ; 
the next most numerous are draughtsmen and designers for 
various manufactures and trades. In connection with the 
head-school at Brompton, schools have been formed in many 
of the principal manufacturing districts throughout the 
country. (See S. Kensington Museum.) 

Besides these, the visitor curious about modes of education 
should visit the “Wesleyan Normal College,” Horseferry- 
road, Westminster, established 1850 (James Wilson, architect), 
for the training of school-masters and mistresses, and the edu¬ 
cation of the children residing in the locality; and the “Ragged 
School,” in South Lambeth, founded by the late Mx\ Beaufoy 
(d. 1851); the Normal School, in the Fulham-road. 


XXIII.-HOSPITALSAND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 

In London there exist nearly 1000 Charitable Institutions 
which may be divided into 
General Medical Hospitals. 

Medical Charities for special purposes; such as Small Pox, Con- 
siunption, Cancer, &c. 

General Dispensaries, 

Institutions for the preservation of life and public morals. 
Societies for reclaiming the fallen and staying the progress of 
crime. 

Societies for the relief of general destitution and distress. 

Societies for aiding the resources of the industrious (exclusive 
of loan funds and savings’ banks). 

Societies for the deaf and dumb and the blind. 

Colleges, Hospitals, and Institutions of Almshouses for the aged. 
Pension Societies. 

Provident Societies chiefly for specified classes. 

Asylums for orphan and other necessitous children. 

Educational Foundations. 

School Societies, Religious Books, Church-aiding, and Christian 
Visiting Societies. 

Bible and Missionary Societies. 

Their united income has been computed at Four Millions 
Sterling, spent on the spot, of which 2,110,000Z. is given in 
the shape of food and clothing, 646,000^. in the relief of disease 



xxiii. —ST. Bartholomew’s hospital. 


215 


and sickness, and 1,426,000Z, for educational and religious 
purposes. Besides all this, a quarter million is supposed to 
be given in private alms, including street beggars ! 

The leading institutions which the stranger or resident in 
London will find best worth visiting are ;— 

ST. BARTHOLOMEW’S HOSPITAL, in Smitufield, the 
earliest institution of the kind in London, occupying part of 
the Priory of St. Baii^holomew, founded a.d. 1102, by Rahere, 
the first Prior ; repaired and enlarged by the executors of 
Richard Whittington, the celebrated Mayor; and founded 
anew, at the dissolution of religious houses, by Henry VIII. 

for the continual relief and help of an lumdred sore and 
diseased;” the immediate superintendence of the Hospital 
being committed by the king to Thomas Vicary, Serjeant- 
Surgeon to Henry VIII., Edward VI., Mary, and Elizabeth, 
and author of “The Englishman’s Treasure,” the first work 
on anatomy published in the English language. The great 
quadrangle of the present edifice was built (1730-33) by James 
Gibbs, architect of the church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields. The 
gate towards Smithfield was built in 1702, and the Enlarged 
Surgery in 1842. This Hospital gives relief to all poor per¬ 
sons suffei’ing from accident or diseases, either as in-patients 
or out-patients. Accidents, or cases of urgent disease, may 
be brought without any letter of recommendation or other 
formality at all hours of the day or night to the Surgery, 
where there is a person in constant attendance, and the 
aid of the Resident Medical Officers can be instantly obtained. 
General admission-day, Thursday, at 11 o’clock. Petitions 
for admission to be obtained at the Steward’s Office, any day, 
between 10 and 2. The Reception Hall measures 94ft. by 
32ft., and is crowded with hundreds of patients, many from 
idleness more than from ailment. The Hospital contains 
550 beds, in constant occupation, and relief is afforded to 
70,000 patients annually. The in-patients are visited daily 
by the Physicians and Surgeons ; and, during the summer 
session, four Clinical Lectures are delivered weekly. A 
limited number of students can reside within the Hospital 
walls, subject to the rules of the Collegiate system, estab¬ 
lished under the direction of the Treasm’er and a Committee 
of Governors of the Hospital. Between 200^. and 300^. are 
spent every year for strong sound port wine, for the sick poor 
in Bartholomew’s Hospital. Neaidy 2000 lbs. weight of castor 
oil; 200 gallons of spirits of wine, at 176'. a gallon; 12 tons of 
linseed meal; 1000 lbs. weight of senna; 27 cwt. of salts, are 
items in the annual account for drugs ; the grand total spent 
upon physic, in a twelvemonth, being 2,600^.; 5000 yards of 
calico are wanted for rollers for bandaging; to say nothing of 


216 


XXlll.—BETHLEHEM IIOSBITAL 


the stouter and stififer fabric used for plasters. More than half 
a hundred weight of sarsaparilla is used every week, a sign 
how much the constitutions of the patients require improve¬ 
ment. In a year, 29,700 leeches were bought for the use of 
the establishment. A ton and a half of treacle is annually 
used in syrup, Harvey, the discoverer of the circulation of 
the blood, was Physician to the Hospital for 34 years 
(1609*43). St. Bartholomew’s enjoys a high reputation 
as a School of Medicine, and is resorted to by a large 
uximber of pupils. Edward Nourse, Drs. William and David 
Pitcairn, and Abernethy have in turn lectured here. Lec¬ 
tures on Anatomy and Surgery, Physiology, and other 
branches of medicine, are given in a large Theatre, well 
adapted for the purpose. Students have access to the 
Museums of Anatomy, Materia Medica, Botany, and to a 
well-furnished Library. To rooms for pi’actical Anatomy 
and a chemical laboratory. Prizes and honorary distinctions 
are yearly given to the most deserving pupils, and several 
scholarships worth 45Z. to 50^. per annum are obtainable by 
competition. In 1843, the Governors founded a Collegiate 
Establishment, to afford the Pupils the moral advantages, 
together with the comfort and convenience, of a residence 
within the walls of the Hospital, and to supply them with 
ready guidance and assistance in their studies. The chief 
officer of the College is called the Warden. The Pi'esident 
of the Hospital must have served the office of Lord Mayor. 
The qualification of a Governor is a donation of 100 guineas. 
The greatest individual benefactor to St. Bartholomew’s was 
Dr. RadclifFe, physician to Queen Anne, who left the yearly 
sum of 500^. for ever, towards mending the diet of the Hos¬ 
pital, and the further sum of 100^. for ever, for the pur¬ 
chase of linen. Observe. —Portraits : Henry VIII. in the Couri- 
room, by a contemporary painter but not by Holbein; of Dr. 
Radcliffe, by Kneller; Perceval Pott, by Sir J. Reynolds ; Aber¬ 
nethy, by Sir T. Lawrence. The Good Samaritan, and The 
Pool of Bethesda, on the gi'and staircase, were painted gra¬ 
tuitously by Hogarth; for which he was made a governor 
for life. The income of the Hospital is between 30,000^. and 
40,000^. a year. 

BETHLEHEM HOSPITAL (vulg. Bedlam), in St. George’s 
Fields. An hospital for insane people, founded (1547) in 
the reign of Henry VIII. On the dissolution, that king 
bestowed the suppressed priory of Our Lord of Beth¬ 
lehem, founded 1246 by Simon Fitz Mary, Sheriff of 
London, on the City of London, by whom it was first con¬ 
verted into an hospital for lunatics. Fitz-Mary’s Hospital 
which stood in Bi^hopsgate Without (where now is Bethlem 



XXIII.—ST. Thomas’s hospital. 


217 


Court), was taken down in 1675, and a second Hospital 
built in Moorfields, “at the cost of nigh 17,000Z.” Of this 
second Bedlam (Robert Hooke, architect) there is a view 
in Strypc. It was taken down in 1814, and the firet stone 
of the present Hospital (James Lewis, architect) laid April 
18th, 1812. The cupola was added by Sydney Smii'ke. The 
firat Hospital could accommodate only 50 or 60, and the 
second 150. The building in St. Oeorge’s-fields was originally 
constructed for 198 patients, but this being found too limited 
for the purposes and resources of the Hospital, a wing was 
commenced for 166 additional patients, 1838. Two remote 
wings are devoted to noisy patients, male and female. The 
whole building (the House of Occupations included) covers 
14 acres. In one year the Governors admitted nearly 600 
patients, of whom 206 were cured, and 13 died, and 344 
(136 criminal lunatics) remained. The income is about 30,000Z. 
per annum. The expenses exceed 20,000Z. The way in 
which the comfort of the patients is studied by eveiy one 
connected with the Hospital cannot be too highly com¬ 
mended. The women have pianos, and the men billiard and 
bagatelle-tables. There are, indeed, few things to remind you 
that you are in a mad-house beyond the bone knives in use, 
and a few cells lined and floored with cork and india-rubber, 
and agaiinst which the most insane patient may knock his head 
without the possibility of hurting it. Among the unfortu¬ 
nate inmates have been—Peg Nicholson, for attempting to 
stab George III.; she died here in 1828, after a confinement 
of 42 years.—Hatfield, for attempting to shoot the same 
king in Drary-lane Theatre.—Oxford, for firing at Queen 
Victoria in St. James’s Park.—M‘Naghten, for shooting Mr. 
Edward Drummond at Charing-cross; he mistook Mr. Drum¬ 
mond, the private secretaiy of Sir Robert Peel, for Sir R. Peel 
himself. Visitors interested in cases of lunacy should see 
Hanwell Asylum, on the Great Western Railway (7^ miles from 
London), and the Colney Hatch Asylum oijthe Great Northern 
Railway (6^ miles from London), the latter covering 119 
acres, and erected at a cost of 200,000Z. 

ST. THOMAS’S HOSPITAL, New Road, Lambeth, re¬ 
built, on 84 acres of ground partly gained from the river on 
the right bank of the Thames, between Lambeth Palace and 
Westminster Bridge, for which 90,000^. were paid. The first 
stone was laid by Queen Victoria, May, 1868. It was opened 
by H, M. June, 1871. It consists of seven detached blocks of 
building of red brick four storeys high, 125 feet apart, raised 
on lofty foundations which alone cost 48,000^. (H. Currey, 
Architect), The total cost amounts to 500,000?. The isola¬ 
tion of the parts of the building is of great importance to 


218 


XXllI.— guy’s hospital. 


secure perfect ventilation. The central pavilion contains the 
Hall and Chapel. A corridor or cloister runs along the whole 
length of the building, giving access to the different wards. 
It can receive 608 patients in its wards. This Hospital for 
sick and diseased poor pereons, under the management of the 
Corporation of the City of London, owes its origin to an 
Almonry, &c., founded (1213) by Richard, Prior of Ber¬ 
mondsey, and augmented (1215) for canons regular by Peter 
de Rupibus, Bishop of AVinchester; bought at the dissolution 
of religious houses by the citizens of Loudon. It was re- 
founded by charter from Edward VI. as a Hospital for poor, 
impotent, and diseased people, Nov. 1552. The building 
having fallen into decay, the governors, aided by the bene¬ 
volence of the public, rebuilt the whole (1701-6) in High 
Street, Southwark. In 1862 the South-Eastern Railway Co. 
gave by award 296,000/. for the old building and ground on 
which it stood, close to their London Bridge Terminus, to 
enable them to carry past one corner of it their branch line 
to Charing Cross. Admission, Tuesday moi'ning, at 10. Pa¬ 
tients stating their complaints may receive a petition at the 
steward’s office, to be signed by a housekeeper, who must 
engage to remove the patient on discharge or death, or pay 
1/. Is. for funeral. The qualification of a governor is a dona¬ 
tion of 50/. Nearly 50,000 in and out patients are received 
and treated in one year. The income has risen to 32,000/. 
per annum. 

GUY’S HOSPITAL, near London Bridge, in Southwark, 
for the sick and lame, built by Dance (d. 1768), and en¬ 
dowed by Thomas Guy, a bookseller in Lombard-street, 
who is said to have made his fortune ostensibly by the sale 
of Bibles, b\it more, it is thought, by purchasing seamen’s 
tickets, and by his great success in the sale and transfer 
of stock in the memorable South Sea Bubble year, 1720. 
Guy was a native of Tamworth, in Staffordshire, and died 
(1724) at the age of 80. The building of the Hospital 
cost 18,793/. 16s. Id., and the endowment amounted to 
219,499/. Os. id. The founder, though 76 when the Avork 
began, lived to see his Hospital covered with the roof. In 
the first court is his statue in brass, dx’essed in his livery 
gown, and in the chapel {“ shouldering God’s altar ”) another 
statue of him in marble, by the elder Bacon. Sir Astley 
Cooper, the eminent surgeon (d. 1841), is buried in the 
chapel. In 1867 the patients relieved amounted to 80,334, 
of whom 5245 were in-patients. The average number of in¬ 
patients is 502 throughout the year. 

Gentlemen who desire to become Students must give 
satisfactory testimony as to their education and conduct. 


xxiTi.—sT. George’s and ch'J!lsea hospitals. 219 

They are required to pay 40?. for the first year, 40?. for 
the second year, and 10?. for eveiy succeeding year of 
attendance. This admits to the Lectures, Practice, and all 
the privileges of a Student. 

The Apothecary to the Hospital is authorised to enter the 
Names of Students, and to give further particulars if required. 

ST. GEORGE’S HOSPITAL, Hyde Park Corner, at the 
top of Grosvenor-place. A Hospital for sick and lame 
people, supported by voluntary contributions ; built by 
William Wilkins, R.A., architect of the National Gallery, on 
the site of Lanesborough House, the London residence of 
“ Sober Lanesbro’ dancing with the gout; ” 
converted into an Infirmary in 1733. John Hunter, the 
physician, died (1793) in this Hospital. He had long suf¬ 
fered from an affection of the heart; and in an altercation 
with one of his colleagues, he suddenly stopped, retired to 
an ante-room, and immediately expired. 

CHELSEA HOSPITAL. A Royal Hospital for old and 
disabled soldiers, of which the first stone was laid by 
Charles II. in person, March, 1681-2. It has a centre, with 
two wings of red brick, with stone dressings, faces the Thames, 
and shows more effect with less means than any other of 
Wren’s buildings. The history of its erection is contained 
on the frieze of the great quadrangle:— 

‘'In subsidium et levamen emeritorum senio, belloque fractormn, 
eondidit Carolus Secundus, auxit Jacobus Secundus, perfecere Giilielraus 
et Maria Rex et Regina, MDCXC.” 

The total cost is said to have been 150,000?. Observe .— 
Portrait of Charles 11. on horseback (in hall), by Verrio and 
Henry Cooke; altar-piece (in chapel) by Sebastian Ricci; 
bronze statue of Charles II. in centre of the great quad¬ 
rangle, executed by Grinling Gibbons for Tobias Rustat. 
In THE Hall, General Whitelocke w’as tried, and the Courts 
of Inquiry into the Convention of Cintra, and into the 
mortality among tho troops in^ the Crimean campaign, sat. 
Here, where the Duke of Wellington’s body lay in state, 
are hung, modestly out of sight, 46 colours; and in the 
Chapel, 55 (all captured by the British army in various 
parts of the world), viz.:—34 French ; 13 American; 4 Dutch; 
13 eagles taken from the French,—2 at Waterloo, 1 by 
Sergt. Ewart, of the Scots Greys, the other by Colonel 
Kennedy (for Mons. Thiers’ information, 1862); 2 Salamanca ; 
2 Madrid; 4 Martinique; 1 Barrosa; and a few staves of the 
171 colours taken at Blenheim. At St. Paul’s, where the 
Blenheim colours were suspended, not a rag nor a staff re¬ 
mains. Eminent Persons interred here. —William Cheselden, 


220 xxni.—GREENWICH HOSPITAL. 

the famous surgeon (d. 1752); Eev. William Young (d. 1757), 
the original Parson Adams in Fielding’s Joseph Andrews. 
Dr. Arbuthnot filled the oSice of Physician, and the Eev. 
Philip Francis (the translator of Horace) the office of Chaplain 
to the Hospital. The building is calculated to accommodate 
530 in-pensioners, who are liberally provided for by anniial 
votes. The Hospital is always full, the number of appli¬ 
cants for admission being generally in the proportion of two 
and three for every vacancy. As a general rule, no appli¬ 
cant is admitted at a lower rate of in-pension than Is. a day, 
but all applications for admission are decided on by the 
Commissioners solely with reference “to the man’s cha¬ 
racter and merits as a soldier,” without considering his 
period of service. The number of out-pensioners is about 
63,000, at rates varying from \\d. to 3s. 10c?. There is a 
pleasant tradition that Hell Gwynne materially assisted in 
the foundation of Chelsea Hospital. The Hospital is managed 
by a Governoi’, Commissioners, &c. The Governor is ap¬ 
pointed by the Sovereign, acting on the advice of the 
Commander-in-Chief. 

GEEEHWICH HOSPITAL, on the right bank of the 
Thames, 6 m. below London Bridge intended as an Asylum 
for old and disabled seamen (not officers) of the Eoyal Havy , 
was founded by William III. (at the desire of his Queen, Mary), 
anxious to provide for the wounded seamen who returned 
from the battle of La Hogue, and erected on the site of the 
old Manor House of our kings, in wliich Heuiy VIII. and 
his daughters Mary and Elizabeth were born. Charles II. 
meant to erect a new palace on the site; the west wing 
was commenced in 1664, from the designs of Webb, the 
kinsman of Inigo Jones; indeed, it forms part of the present 
building. The first stone of the Hospital works, in con¬ 
tinuation of the unfinished palace, was laid 3rd June, 1696 ; 
and in January, 1705, the building was first opened for 
the reception of pensioners. The river front is doubtless 
Webb’s design. The colonnades, the cupolas, and the gi’eat 
hall, are by Wren. The chapel was built by Athenian Stuart, 
ill place of the original chapel, built by Eipley, and destroyed 
by fire 2nd January, 1779. The brick buildings to the west 
are by Vanbrugh. The house seen in the centre of the great 
square was built by Inigo Jones for Queen Henrietta Maria, 
and is now the Eoyal Naval School. The statue, by Eysbrack, 
in the centre of the quadrangle, George II., was cut from a 
block of marble taken from the French by Sir George Eooke. 

The well-proportioned Hall, 106 feet long, 56 feet wide, 
and 50 feet high, is the work of Wren. The emblematical 
ceiling and side-walls were by Sir James Thornhill, 1708-27 , 


XXllI.—GREENWICH HOSPITAL. 


221 


and cost 6685Z., or Zl. per yard for the ceiling, and IZ. for the 
sides. The Picture Gallery was formed by George IV. at 
the suggestion of Ed. Hawke Locker. Among the portraits, 
observe, full-length of the Earl of Nottingham, Admiral of 
England against the Spanish Armada, Vansomer; half-lengths, 
painted for the Duke of York (James II.),- of Monk, Duke of 
Albemarle; Montague, Earl of Sandwich; Admirals Ayscue, 
Lawson, Tyddeman, Mings, Penn, Harman (fine), and Vice- 
Admirals Berkeley, Smith, and Jordan, by Sir P. Lely, —all 
celebrated connnanders at sea against the Dutch in the reign 
of Charles II.; Russell, Earl of Orford, victor at La Hogue, 
Bochnan; Sir George Rooke, who took Gibraltai*, Dahl; Sir 
Cloudesley Shovel, Dahl; several Admirals, Kneller ; Captain 
Cook, by Dance (painted for Sir Joseph Banks); Sir Thomas 
Hardy, Evans. The other porti'aits are principally copies by 
inferior artists. Among the subject-pictures, observe, Deatli 
of Captain Cook, Zoffany ; Lord Howe’s Victory of the 1st of 
June, Loutlierbourg (fine); Battle of Trafalgar, /. M. W. Turner. 
The statues, erected by vote of Parliament, represent Sir 
Sydney Smith, Lord Exmouth, and Lord De Sauniarez, and 
cost 1500Z. each,—the Smith by Kirk of Dublin, the Exmouth 
by Mac Dowell of Loudon, and the De Sauniarez by Steel of 
Edinburgh. In Upper Hall, observe, Astrolabe presented to 
Sir Francis Drake by Queen Elizabeth; coat worn by Nelson 
at the Battle of the Nile; coat and waistcoat in which Nelson 
was killed at Trafalgar. 

“ The coat is the undress unifonn of a vice-admiral, lined -with -white 
silk, -with lace on the cuffs, and epaulettes. Four stars—of the Orders of 
the Bath, St. Ferdinand and Merit, the Crescent, and St. Joachim—are 
sewn on the left breast, as Nelson habitually wore them ; which disproves 
the story that he purposely adorned himself with his decorations on 
going into battle! The course of the fatal ball is shown by a hole over 
the left shoulder, and part of the epaulette is torn away; which agrees 
with Dr. Sir William Beattie’s account of Lord Nelson’s death, and with 
the fact that pieces of the bullion and pad of the epaulette adhered to 
the ball, which is now in Her Majesty’s possession. The coat and 
waistcoat are stained in several places with the hero’s blood.”— Sir 
Harris JSicolas. In King Charles’ Ward, may be seen the old bat which 
he wore at Tenerifle, and where he lost his arm. 

The Chapel, built 1779-89, by Athenian Stuart, contains an 
altar-piece, ‘‘The Shipwreck of St. Paul,” by B. West, P. R. A., 
and monuments, erected by King William IV., to Admiral 
Sir Richard Goodwin Keats, and Admiral Sir Thomas Hardy 
(Nelson’s captain at Trafalgar); the former by Chantrey, and 
the latter by Behnes. Keats, as the inscription sets forth, 
was the shipmate and watchmate of William IV., on board the 
Prince George, 1779-81; the commoner serving as lieutenant, 
and the king as midshipman. 

The income of the Hospital for 1866 was 155,0001. de- 


222 


XX] II.—GREENWICH HOSPITAL. . 


rived from an annual Parliamentary grant of 20,000?.; from 
fines levied against smuggling, 19,500?.; effects of Captain 
Kidd, the pirata, 6472?.; forfeited and unclaimed shares of 
prize and bounty money, granted in 1708; 6000?. a year, 
granted in 1710, out of the coal and culm tax; vai’ious pri¬ 
vate bequests, particularly one of 20,000?. from Robert Osbal- 
deston, and from the valuable estates forfeited, in 1715, by the 
Eai’l of Derwentwater. In 1865 most of the sailors inhabit¬ 
ing the hospital quitted it, preferring to live at home with 
their friends, on an allowance from its funds of 2s. a-day, in 
addition to their service pension. Since 1870 the building has 
been closed to its original inmates. It is now available as a 
Medical Hospital for wounded seamen during time of war. It 
has room for 2,600 inmates. The Infirmary has been given 
over to the Director of the Merchant Seamen’s Hospital. 

The Painted Hall is open every Week-day from Ten 
to Seven during the Summer months, and from Ten to Three 
ill the Winter; and on Sundays after Divine Service in the 
Morning. On Monday and Friday it is open free to the public ; 
and on the other days, on payment of threepence. Soldiers 
and sailors are admitted free at all times. The Chapel is 
open under the same regulations as the Painted Hall. 

Other Hospitals. —Among the noble institutions of a like 
nature with which London abounds may be mentioned :— 
1. The London Hospital. 2. Westminster Hospital, Broad 
Sanctuary, Westminster, relieves about 16,000 patients annu¬ 
ally, of whom more than one-half are admitted on no other 
claim than (the greatest) the urgency of their cases. 3. Mid¬ 
dlesex Hospital. 4. Royal Free Hospital, in Gray’s-Inn-road. 

5. King’s College Hospital, Portugal-strcet, Lincoln’s-Iim-fields. 

6. University College Hospital. 7. Charing-cross Hospital. 
8. St. Mary’s Hospital, Cambridge-place, Paddington. 

Hospital for Sick Children, Great Ormond street, Blooms¬ 
bury, The Cancer Hospital (Free) at Chelsea; Office, 167, Pic¬ 
cadilly; an excellent institution, has 400 constant patients. 

The FRENCH HOSPICE, Victoria Park, South Hack¬ 
ney, originally founded for the succour of Protestant refu¬ 
gees driven from France by the Revocation of the Edict of 
Nantes, 1686, endowed with sums of money by M. Gastigny, 
Ph. Hervart, Baron de Huningue, and the Duchesse de la 
Force, was removed from its original site, Old-street, St. 
Luke’s, 1866, and rebuilt in the picturesque style of a French 
chateau, with extinguisher turrets of brick and stone, at a 
cost of 20,000?., Mr. Roumieu, architect. Within its walls 
60 inmates are lodged and provided for. Many Spitalfields 
and Norwich Silkweavers, descendants of French refugees, 


. XXI] 1.—FOUNDLING HOSPITAL. 


223 


have been succoured from its fund. In the court-room are 
portraits of benefactors (see Smiles’ “ Huguenots ”). 

The FOUNDLING HOSPITAL, Guilford Street, was 
founded in 1739, by Captain Thomas Coram, as ‘‘an hospital 
for exposed and deserted children.” The ground was bought 
of the Earl of Salisbury for 7000^., and the Hospital built by 
Theodore Jacobson (d. 1772), architect of the Royal Hospital 
a.t Gosport. The Hospital was changed, in 1760, from a 
Foundling Hospital to what it now is, an Hospital for poor 
illegitimate children whose mothers are .known. The 
committee requires to be satisfied of the previous good 
character and present necessity of the mother of every 
child proposed for admission. The qualification of a 
governor is a donation of 501. Among the principal bene¬ 
factors to the Foundling Hospital, the great Handel stands 
unquestionably the first. On the organ in the chapel, which 
was his gift, he frequently performed his Oratorio of the 
Messiah. Ohsei've. —In the chapel, an altar-piece, by West, 
Christ Blessing Little Children, and in the Girls' Dininy 
Room, Portrait of Captain Coram, full-length, by Hogarth. 

“ The portrait I painted with the most pleasure, and in which I par¬ 
ticularly wished to excel, was that of Captain Coram for the Foundling 
Hospital; and if I am so wretched an artist as my enemies assert, it is 
somewhat strange that this, which was one of the first I painted the size 
of life, should stand the test of twenty years’ competition, and be 
generally thought the best portrait in the place, notwithstanding the 
first painters in the kingdom exerted all their talents to vie with it.”— 
Hogarth. 

On the walls of the Committee Room hang the March to Finch¬ 
ley, by Hogarth ; Moses brought to Pharaoh’s Daughter, by 
Hogarth ; Dr. Mead, by A llan Ramsay ; Lord Dartmouth, 
by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; George II., by Shaclcleton; View of 
the Foundling Hospital, by Richard Wilsmi; St. George’s 
Hospital, by Richard Wilson ; Sutton’s Hospital (the Char¬ 
ter House), by Gainsborough ; Chelsea Hospital, by Haytley ; 
Bethlehem Hospital, by Haytley ; St. Thomas’s Hospital, by 
Wale; Greenwich Hospital, by Wale ; Christ’s Hospital, by 
Wale; three sacred subjects, by Hayman, Highmore, and 
Wills; also a bas-relief, by RysbracTc. These pictures were 
chiefly gifts, and illustrate th e state of art in England about 
the middle of the last century. The music in the chapel of 
the Hospital on Sundays—^the children being the choristers 
—is fine, and worth hearing. Lord Chief Justice Tenterden 
(d. 1832) is buried in the chapel. 

The Foundling is open for the inspection of strangers 
every Sunday after morning service—when the children are 
at dinner—an interesting sight, and every Monday from 10 


224 XXIII.—MAGDALEN AND LOCK HOSPITALS, ETC. 


to 4. The juvenile band of the establishment perform from 
3 to 4. The services of the chapel on Sundays commence 
in the morning at 11 o’clock, and in the afternoon at 3, pre¬ 
cisely. The servants are not permitted to receive fees, but a 
collection is made at the chapel doors to defray the expenses 
of that part of the establishment. 

MAGDALEN HOSPITAL, a handsome building opened 
1869, in Leigham Court Koad, Streatham, for the reforma¬ 
tion and relief of penitent prostitutes. Instituted 1758, 
chiefly by the. exertions of Mr. Dingley, Sir John Fielding, 
Mr. Saunders Welch, and Jonas Han way. A subscription of 
20 guineas or more at one time, or of 5 guineas per annum 
for five successive years, is a qualification of a governor for 
life. The Sunday service in the chapel is very beautifully 
performed. 

LOCK HOSPITAL CHAPEL, and ASYLUM, Harrow 
Koad, Westbourne Green. Supposed to be so called from 
the French loques, rags, from the lugs (lint) applied to 
wounds and sores; so lock of wool, lock of hair. The Hos¬ 
pital (the only one of the kind in London) was established 
in 1746, for the cure of females suffering from disorders 
contracted by a vicious course of life; the Chapel in 1764, 
as a means of income to the Hospital; and the Asylum in 
1787, for the reception of penitent females recovered in the 
Hospital. A subscription of 3 guineas annually entitles to 
one recommendation; 50^. donation, or 5 gmneas annually, 
constitutes a governor. The Loke, or Lock, in Kent-street, 
in Southwark (from which the pi'esent Hospital derives its 
name), was a lazar-house, or ’spital for leprous people, from 
a very early period. Tliere was a second betwixt Mile End 
and Stratford-le-Bow; a third at Kingsland, betwixt Shore¬ 
ditch and Stoke Newington ; and a fourth at Knightsbridge, 
St, Giles’s-in-the-Fields, and St. James’s Hospital in West¬ 
minster (now the Palace), were both instituted for the 
reception of lepers. 

The SEAMEN’S HOSPITAL SHIP (Dreadnought), for 
Sick and Diseased Seamen of all Nations; who, on presenting 
themselves alongside the ship, are immediately received, 
•without the necessity of a recommendatory letter. The 
Hospital is supported by voluntary contributions. The 
original Dreadnought (or hospital on this mooring) fought 
at Trafalgar under Captain Conn, and captured the Spanish 
three-decker the San Juan. 

Among the leading Societies for the Preservation of Human 
Life, Health, and Morals, may be mentioned:— 


XXIII.—MODEL LODGING HOUSES. 


225 


The ROYAL HUMANE SOCIETY, for the recovery of 
persons from drowning, founded by Dr. Hawes; instituted 
1774 ; and still maintained by voluntary contributions. 
The Receiving House, a tasteful classic building, by J. B. 
Running, is close to the Serpentine River, in Hyde Park, and 
the Society’s office at 3, Trahilgar-square. During a severe 
frost the Society has 50 icemen in its employ, at an expense 
of 4s. 6d. a day for each man. 

The MODEL BATHS and WASH-HOUSES, in Goulston- 
SQUAEE, Whitechapel (P. P. Baly, Engineer and Architect) ; 
George-street, Eustox-square ; St.Marths’s-in-the-Fields, 
behind the National Gallery; Marylebone ; Westminster ; 
St. James’s, Piccadilly. That in Goulston-square, erected in 
1847, was the earliest in point of time, and is still, perhaps, not 
to be surpassed. They are all self-supporting, and have contri¬ 
buted materially to the comfort and health of the lower and 
middle classes of London. The Baths are scrupulously clean. 

The Charities for the Blind, the Deaf, and the Dumb are 
important and well deserving attention. The leading insti¬ 
tutions of this nature are :— 

London Society eor Teaching the Blind to Read, 1, 
Avenue-road, St. John’s-wood; instituted 1839. School eor 
the indigent Blind, St. George’s-fields, Surrey; instituted 
1799. Asylum for the Support and Education of Deaf 
and Dumb Children, Old Kent-road, Surrey; instituted 
1792; Royal National Lifeboat Institution, John-street, 
Adelphi. 

For further information, see Mr. Sampson Low’s excellent 
volume on the Charities of London.” 

MODEL LODGING-HOUSES. In 1864, Mr. George Pea¬ 
body, a generous American merchant in London, gave 
150,000Z. to the poor of London, augmented by him, 1868, 
to 3o0,000Z. This has been laid out in buying land or build¬ 
ing Model Lodging Houses for the poor, which are'let at 
sums varying from 5s. for 3 rooms, to 2s. 6d. a week for 1 
room. The buildings already erected, 5 storeys high, are in 
Essex-road, Islington; Love-lane, Shadwell; and Commercial- 
street, Spitalfields—others are in progress in Westminstei’, 
Chelsea, and other convenient situations, under the direction 
of the Trustees. The corporation of London have devoted 
120,000/. and a piece of ground in Vine-street, Farringdon- 
road, for the erection of the great “Refu‘:e” for receiving 
and lodging destitute poor, especially in inclement seasons. 

COLUMBIA SQUARE MARKET, close to Shore¬ 
ditch Church, is a buildmg of considerable architectural 


226 ,^XITI.—BRITISH AND FOREIGN BIBLE SOCIETY. 

bsauty. Tho good deeds of Mr, Peabody are rivalled, 
if not surpassed, by those of an Englishwoman, Baroness 
Burdett Coutts, who, largely endowed with the means, 
has shown herself to possess the heart and the will to 
benefit the poor of London. On the side of Bethnal Green 
nearest Shoreditch, existed a seat of foulness and disease, 
moral and physieal, called Nova Scotia Gardens, where 
amidst pestilential drains and refuse heaps, were some of 
the most miserable hovels, occupied by the mdst squalid 
and wicked of the population of Loudon. By the benevo¬ 
lence of Miss Coutts, all this has bgeu removed, and in its 
place rise four lofty well-built blocks of lodging houses 
forming a square called Columbia Buildings^ now occupied 
by an orderly and healthy set of people. On the site of the 
“ dust heap ” a very handsome Market was erected, 1869, by 
the same benevolent lady, for the convenience of the 
neighbourhood. Turned into a Fish Market, 1870. The 
chief feature of it is a noble Gothic Hall divi'led into seven 
bays by lofty granite piers for the accommodation of dealers 
and salesmen. It is 50 feet high, its exterior richly decorated, 
the entire space occupied by the market is two acres. The 
architect is Mr. H. A. Darbishire. 

The METROPOLITAN ASSOCIATION for Improving 
the Dwellings of the Poor, has embarked 10O,00OZ. in build¬ 
ings capable of holding 4,000 workmen, and yielding 5 per 
cent, profit. 

BRITISH AND FOREIGN BIBLE SOCIETY, a largo 
building erected, 1868, in Victoria Street, leading from 
Mansion House to Blackfriars Bridge, has printed the 
Bible in one hundred languages, and distributes yearly nearly 
two and a half million copies. Annual income, 171,923Z. 

The GERMAN HOSPITAL, Dalston, for the benefit of 
Germans suffering from disease, and of English in ease of 
accidents. It is a handsome building. In 1868, 18,000 in 
and out patients received relief. There are 30,000 Germans 
in London, many working-men, sugar bakers, skin dressers, 
and skin dyers. 

MENDICITY SOCIETY, Red Lion Square, for the 
suppression of professional beggars and for furnishing work 
to the poor. The Society distributes to its members tickets 
to be given to street beggars instead of money, which, on 
being presented at the Society’s house, will obtain for the 
bearers food and work if they desire it. The society also 
devotes its attention to begging letter impostors, seeking 
them oiit and exposing their frauds. In 1868 more than 
8000 relief tickets were distributed, and more than 35,000 
meals given to poor applicants. 


XXIV.—CLUBS, 


227 


XXIV.-CLUB HOUSES. 

PRINCIPAL CLUBS IN LONDON. 

Those marked with an asterisk (*) admit Strangers to dine in the 
, Strangers' Room. 


Name. 

Number 
of Mem¬ 
bers li¬ 
mited to. 

Entrance 

Fee. 

Annual 

Sub¬ 

scription. 

Where 

Situate. 

• 


£ s. 

£ s. 


Alpine . 




8, St. Martin’s-pl., 

•Array and Navy . 


30 0 ’ 


Trafalgar-sq. 

1450 

6 11 

Pall-mall. 

Arthur’s . . . 

600 

21 0 

10 10 

St. James’s-st. 

Athenaeum 

1200 

26 5 

7 7 

Pall-mall. 

A tiiHiiaeum, junior. 




Dowii-st.. Pic’sady. 

Boodle’s . . . 




28, St.James’s-st. 

Brooks’s . 

575 

9 9 

11 11 

60 St. James’s-st. 

Carlton . . 

8001 

15 15 

10 10 

Pall-mall. 

Carlion, junior . . 
City of London 

lOJO ? 

26 5 

6 6 

Pall-mall. 

19, Old Broad-st., 
City. 

Civil Service 




(Thatched House). 




86, S^. Jsmes’s-st. 

Cocoa Tree 




St. James’s-st. 

•Conservative . . 

1500 

26 5 

8 8 

St. James’s-st. 

E. India United Ser. 




St. James’s--q. 

•Glarrick . 


21 0 

6 6 

5, New King-st., 




• 

Covent.-garden, 

Gresham . . . 




Gresliaiii-()1. City. 

Guards . 

Offs.ofS Kegts.ofFt.Gds.only 

70, Pall-mall. 

St. James's Club . 




Camb. House, Pic. 

•Junior United Serv. 

2000 

35 0 

6 6 

Regent-street. 

New City Club . . 




George yd., Lom- 





barU-'treet 

Naval and Military 


21 0 


Camb. Hou.se, Pic. 

Oriental . . . 

800 

8 0 

Hano ver-square. 

•Oxford&Cambridge 

11701 

26 5 

6 6 

71, Pall-mall. 

•Reform . . . 

1400 g 

26 5 

10 10 

Pall-mall. 

Travellers’ 

700 

21 0 

10 10 

Pall-mall. 

Union. . . 

1000 

32 11 

6 6 

Trafalgar-square. 

United Service 

1500 

30 0 

6 0 

Pall-mall. 

•University Club 

1000i| 

26 5 

6 0 

Pall-mall East. 

New University 




St. James’s-street. 

White’s . . . 

Whittington . 

550 


2 2 

37, St. James’s-st. 
37, Ai uiidel-street, 




Strand. 

•Windham . . 

600 

27 6 

8 0 

11, St, James’s-sq. 

•Whitehall Club . 




Parliament-street, 





W e.'»trainster. 


The 33 large clubs are nearly in one locality; 10 being in 
Pall-mall, and 8 in St. Jamcs’s-street, a district hence called 
Club-Land. 

t Exclusive of Peers and Members of House of Commons, 
t 585 from each Univei’sity. 

g Exclusive of Honorary, Supernumerary, and Life Members. 

II 500 of each University. 

Q 2 





















228 


XXIV.—CLUBS. 


UNITED SERVICE CLUB, at the corner of Pall Mall 
and the opening into St. James’s Park, erected 1826, by John 
Nash, architect, for ofl&cers not under the I’ank of Major in 
the Army and of Commander in the Navy. This is con¬ 
sidered to be one of the most commodious, economical, and 
best managed of all the London Club-houses. The pictures, 
though numerous, are chiefly copies. 

JUNIOR UNITED SERVICE CLUB, N. corner of 
Charles Street and E. side of Regent Street, rebuilt and 
enlarged 1857, from the designs of Messrs. Nelson and Innes. 

The ARMY AND NAVY CLUB, in Pall Mall, corner of 
George Street, St. James’s Square, was built 1847-50, 
from the designs of Messrs, Parnell and Smith. The carcase 
or shell of the building cost 18,500^.; the interior 16,500^.— 
in all 35,000Z., exclusive of fittings. The comparatively 
small plot of land on which it stands has cost the Club 
52,500!., and the total expenditure may be called in round 
numbers 100,000^. The largest apartment is the ^^Morning- 
room,” The “Library” is larger than the DraAviug-room. 
The enrichments of the ceilings throughout are in carton- 
pierre and papier-m^che. The principal furniture is of 
walnut-wood. The Kitchen is one of the successful novelties of 
the building, and will repay a visit. There is even a separate 
cook for chops, steaks, and kidneys, who dedicates his wNole 
time and skill to these favourite articles of consumption. 
The Smoking-room, with its balcony commanding a noble 
prospect of cats and chimneys, is the best Club Smoking- 
room in London, the rooms at the Union and Garrick, per¬ 
haps, excepted. 

The GUARDS’ CLUB, Pall Mall, built 1848-50 (H. Har¬ 
rison, archt,). The Club is restricted to the Ofiicers of the 
three Regiments of Foot Guards who served so nobly at 
Waterloo and in the Crimea. 

WHITE’S CLUB-HOUSE, 38, St. James’s Street, an 
aristocratic Club, whose members are chosen without re¬ 
ference to politics ; originally White’s Chocolate-house, under 
whichname it was established circ. 1698. As a Club it dates 
from 1736, when the house ceased to be an open chocolate- 
house, that any one might enter who was prepared to pay for 
what he had. It was then restricted to the chief frequenters 
of the house, whose annual subscriptions towards its sup¬ 
port were paid to the proprietor, by whom the Club was 
formed. With reference to the great spirit of gaming which 


XXIV.—CLUBS. 


229’ 


prevailed at White’s, the arms of the Club were designed 
by Horace Walpole and George Selwyn, The blazon is 
vert (^for a card-table), three parolis proper; on a chevron 
sable (for a hazard-table), two rouleaus in saltier, between 
two dice proper; on a canton sable, a white ball (for elec¬ 
tion), argent. The supporters are an old and young knave 
of clubs; the crest, an arm out of an carl’s coronet shaking 
a dice-box; and the motto, Cogit Amor Nummi.” Round 
the arms is a claret bottle ticket bj" way of order. A book 
for entering bets is still laid on the table. The Club, 
on June 20th, 1814, gave a ball at Burlington House to the 
Emperor of Russia, the King of Prussia, and the allied 
soverei^s then in England, which cost 9849/. 2s. 6d. Covers 
were laid for 2400 people. Three weeks after, the Club gave a 
dinner to the Duke of Wellington, which cost 2480/. 10s. 9c/. 

BROOKS’S CLUB, 60, St. James’s Street. A Whig 
Club-house, founded in Pall-mall, 1764, by 27 noblemen and 
gentlemen, including the Duke of Roxburghe, the Duke of 
Portland, the Earl of Strathmore, Mr. Crewe, afterwards 
Lord Crewe, and Mr. C. J. Fox. It was originally a gaming 
Club, and was farmed at first by Almack, but afterwards by 
Brooks, a wine merchant and money-lender, who retired 
from the Club soon after it was built, and died poor about 
1782. The present house was built, at Brooks’s expense 
(from the designs of Henry Holland, architect), and opened 
in 1778. Sheridan was black-balled at Brooks’s three times 
by George Selwyn, because his father had been upon the 
stage; and he only got in at last through a ruse of George IV. 
(then Prince of Wales), who detained his adversary in con¬ 
versation in the hall whilst the ballot was going on. The 
Club is restricted to 575 members. Entrance, 9 guineas; 
annual subscription, 11 guineas; two black balls exclude. 
The Club (like White’s) is still managed on the farming 
principle. 

CARLTON CLUB, Pall Mall (S. side). A Conser¬ 
vative Club-house, originally built by Sir Robert Smirke, 
but rebuilt, 1850-6, and in every sense improved, by his 
brother, Mr. Sydney Smirke. It presents a noble and 
striking fagade conspicuous for its polished granite pillars. 
It contains on the ground floor a coffee-room, 92 feet by 
37 feet, and 21 ^ feet high, and 284 ^^et high in the centre, 
where there is a glazed dome. On the first floor are a draw¬ 
ing-room, billiard-i'oom, and a private, or house, dinner-i’oom. 
Above are smoking-rooms and dormitories for servants. The 
exterior is built of Caen stone, except the shafts of the columns 


230 


XXIV.—CLUBS. 


and pilasters, which are of Peterhead granite, polished hy 
machineiy, which renders its use possible at moderate ex¬ 
pense. The fa 9 ade is of Italian architecture, of two orders : 
Doric and Ionic; and each inter-columniation is occupied by 
an arched window, the keystones of which project so as to 
contribute towards the support of the entablature over them. 
The design is founded on the E. front of the Library of St. 
Mark’s, at Venice, by Sansovino and Scamozzi. The chief 
object of the architect in introducing here a coloured material 
Avas to compensate, in some measure, for the loss of strong 
light and shadow in an elevation facing the H. 

JUNIOR CARLTON CLUB, another handsome and ex¬ 
tensive building between Pall Mall and St. James’s 
Square ; Brandon, architect, built 1869. 

CONSERVATIVE CLUB HOUSE, on the W. side of 
St. James’s Street. Founded, 1840, as a Club of ease to the 
Carlton. Built from the designs of the late George Bassevi 
and Sydney Smirke, 1843-45, on the site of the Thatched 
House Tavern, and opened Feb. 19th, 1845. The total cost 
of building and furnishing was 73,211Z. 4s. 3d., the architects’ 
commission being 3458Z. 6s. The encaustic paintings of the 
interior are by Mr. Sang, and Avere executed at an expense 
of 2697^. 15s. There ai’e 6 public rooms, viz., a morning and 
evening-room, library, coffee-room, dining-room, and card- 
room. In addition to these there are committee-rooms, 
billiard-rooms, &c. The most striking feature of the house 
is the Hall, coved so as to alloAV a gallery to run round it, 
and the staircase, both richly ornamented in colour. The 
most stately room is that for evening occupation, extending 
from N. to S. of the building, on the first floor. It is nearly 
100 feet in length, 26 in breadth, and 25 in height, Avith 
coved ceihng, supported by 18 lofty Scagliola Corinthian 
columns. The library occupies nearly the whole of the upper 
paid of the N. of the building. The coffee-room, in the 
lower division of the northern portion of the building, is 
of the same proportions as the library. The Club is Av^orked 
by a staff of 50 servants, male and female. The election of 
members is made by the committee, 5 being a quorum, and 
tAvo black balls excluding. 

REFORM CLUB, on the S. side of Pall Mall, betAveen the 
Travellers’ Club and the Carlton Club, Avas founded by the 
Liberal members of the tAvo Houses of Parliament, about 
the time the Reform Bill was canvassed and carried, 1830-32. 
The Club consists of 1000 members, exclusive of members 


XXIV.—CLUBS. 


231 


of either House of Parliament. Entrance fee, 25 guineas; 
annual subscription for the first five years of election, lOZ. lOs., 
subsequently, 81. 8s. The house was built from the designs 
of Sir Charles Barry, R.A. The exterior is greatly admired. 
The interior, especially the large square hall covered with 
glass, occupying the centre of the building, is in excellent 
taste. The water supply is from an Artesian well, 360 feet 
deep, sunk at the expense of the Club. The cooking estab¬ 
lishment, when under the late M. Soyer, was excellent, and 
is now very good. 

ATHEN.^EUM CLUB, Pall Mall. Instituted in 1823, 
by the late Right Hon. J. W. Croker, Sir T. Lawrence, 
Sir F. Chantrey, Mr. Jekyll, &c., “for the Association of 
individuals known for their literary or scientific attainments, 
artists of eminence in any class of the Fine Arts, and noble¬ 
men and gentlemen distinguished as liberal patrons of 
Science, Literature, and the Arts.” The members are chosen 
by ballot, except that the committee have the power of 
electing yearly, from the list of candidates for admission, a 
limited number of persons “who shall have attained to 
distinguished eminence in Science, Literature, and the Arts, 
or for Public Services the number so elected not to exceed 
nine in each year. The number of ordinary members is 
fixed at 1200; entrance fee, 25 guineas; yearly subscription, 
7 guineas. One black ball in ten excludes. The present 
Club-house (Decimus Burton, architect) -was built 1829, and 
opened 8th February, 1830. 

“ The only Club I belong to is the Athenaeum, which consists of twelve 
hundred members, amongst w hom are to be reckoned a large proportion 
of the most eminent persons in the land, in every line—civil, military 
and ecclesiastical, peers spiritual and temporal (ninety-five noblemen 
and twelve bishops), commoners, men of the learned professions, those 
connected with Science, the Arts, and Commei'ce in all its principal 
branches, as well as the distinguished who do not belong to any par¬ 
ticular class. Many of these arc to be met with every day, living with 
the same fi-eedom as in their own houses. For six guineas a-year every 
member has the command of an excellent library, with maps, of the 
daily papers, English and foreign, the principal periodicals, and every 
material for writing, with attendance for whatever is wanted. The 
building is a sort of palace, and is kept with the same exactness and 
comfort as a private dwelling. Every member is a master without any 
of the trouble of a master. He can come when he pleases, and stay 
away as long as he pleases, without anything going w'rong. He has the 
command of regular servants without having to pav or to manage them. 
He can have whatever meal or refreshment he wants, at all hours, and 
served up with the cleanliness and comfort of his owm house. He orders 
just what he pleases, having no interest to think of but his own. In 
.sh ut it is iinp<is>ible to suppose a greater degree of liberty in living.” 
— Walker's Original. 


232 


XXIV.—CLUBS. 


The Library is the best Club Library in London. There is 
a Smoking-room since 1860. 

UNIVERSITY CLUB HOUSE, Suffolk Street, and 
Pall Mall East, was built by W, Wilkins, E.A., and J. P. 
Gandy, and opened Feb. 13th, 1826. Tlie members belong 
to the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge. Entrance 
fee, 25 guineas ; annual subscription, 6 guineas. The upper 
storey (built for a Smoking-room) is an addition made in 
1852 to Mr. Wilkins’ design. 

OXFORD AND CAMBRIDGE CLUB, Pall Mall. Built 
1838 (Sydney Smirke, A.R.A., architect). Entrance-money, 
25 guineas ; annual subscription, 6 guineas. Number of 
members, 1000, 500 from either University. 

UNION CLUB HOUSE, Cockspur Street, and S.W. 
end of Trafalgar Square (Sir Robert Smirke, R.A., archi¬ 
tect). The Club is chiefly composed of merchants, lawyers, 
members of parliament, and, as James Smith, who was a 
member, Avx’ites, “ of gentlemen at large.” The stock of wine’ 
in the cellars is said to be the largest belonging to any Club 
in London. Entrance-money, 30 guineas; annual subscription, 
6 guineas. The Smoking-room at the top was built (1852) 
from the designs of Decimus Burton. 

GARRICK CLLTB, 5, New King Street, Covent Garden, 
named after David Garrick, the actor, and instituted 1831 
“ for the general patronage of the Drama; for the purpose of 
combining a club on economical principles with the ad¬ 
vantages of a Literary Society; for the formation of a 
Theatrical Library and Works on Costume; and also for 
bringing together the patrons of the Drama and gentlemen 
eminent in their respective circles.” A lover of the 
English Drama and stage may spend an hour very proflt- 
ably in viewing the collection of theatrical portraits, the 
property of the Club, and chiefly collected by the late 
Charles Mathews, the distinguished actor, w’hose portrait, 
by Lonsdale, is over the fire-place in the drawing-room. 
Obsei've.—Male Portraits. — Nat Lee (curious); Doggett; 
Quin; Foote; Henderson, by Gainsborough; elder Colman, 
after Sir Joshua; head of Garrick, by Zoffany; Macklin, 
by Opie; J. P. Kemble, drawing by Lawrence; Moody; 
Elliston, drawing by Harlowe ; Bannister, by Russell; Tom 
Sheridan; King, by R. Wilson, the landscape painter; 
Emeiy; elder Dibdin ; Mr. Powel and Family, by R. Wilson ; 
Liston, by Clint (good). Female Portraits.— Gwynne (a 


XXIV.—cLuns. 


233 


namby-pamby face, not genuine); Mrs. Oldfield (half-length), 
by Kneller ; Mrs. Bracegirdle (thi’ee-quarter); Mrs. Pritchard 
(half-length); Mrs. Cibber (also a characteristic drawing of 
her); Peg Woffington, by Mercier, (also a miniature three- 
quarter); Mrs. Abington, as Lady Bab, by Hickey (small 
full-length); Mi’s. Siddons, by Harlowe; Mrs. Yates; 
Mrs. Billington ; Miss O’Neil, by Joseph (full length); Nancy 
Dawson, dancing a hornpipe; Mrs. Siddons, drawing by 
Lawrence; Mrs. luchbald, by Harlowe; Miss Stephens; 
Mrs. Robinson, after Sir Joshua. Theatrical Subjects. — 
Joseph Harris, as Cardinal AVolsey (the Strawberry Hill 
picture; Harris was one of Sir W. Davenant’s players, and 
is commended by Downes for his excellence in this 
character); Anthony Leigh, as the Spanish Friar (half-length); 
Colley Cibber, as Lord Foppington, by Gnsoni (very good); 
Griffin and Johnson, in The Alchemist, by P. Van Bleeck (ex¬ 
cellent) ; School for Scandal (the Screen Scene), as originally 
cast; Mrs. Pritchard, as Lady Macbeth, by Zoffany ; Mr. and 
Mrs. Barry, in Hamlet; Rich,in 1753, as Harlequin; Garrick, 
as Richard III., by the elder Morland ; King, as Touchstone, 
by Zoffany (small full-length); Weston, as Billy Button, by 
Zoffany; King, and Mr. and Mrs. Baddeley, in The Clandestine 
Marriage, by Zoffany (fine); Moody and Parsons, in the Com¬ 
mittee, by Vandergucht; Garrick and Mrs. Cibber, hj Zoffany ; 
Macklin, as Sir Pertinax Macsycophant, by Be Wilde; Love, 
Law, and Physic (Mathews, Liston, Blanchard, and Emery), by 
Clint (fine); Mathews, as Monsieur Mallet, by Clint; Mathews 
iu five characters, by Harlowe; Farren, Farley, aud Jones, in 
The Clandestine Marriage, by Clint; C. Kemble and Fawcett, 
in Charles II., by Clint; Munden, E. Knight, Mr.s. Orger, and 
Miss Cubitt, in Lock and Key, by Clint (fine); Powell, Bensley, 
and Smith, by Mortimer; Dowton, in The Mayor of Garratt; 
busts, by Mrs. Siddons —of Herself and Brother. Bust of 
Shakespeare discovered (bricked up) in pulling dowm (1848) 
old Lincoln’s Inn Fields Theatre. The Smoking-room is 
decorated with paintings by Stanfield, Roberts, and Louis 
Haghe, all three members of the Club. The pictui’es are on 
view every Wednesday (except in September), between 11 
and 3, on the personal introduction of a member. 

WHITTINGTON CLUB and METROPOLITAN ATHE- 
N.^UM, Norfolk St., Strand. A cheap club for clerks and 
other men and women, founded (1847) with a view to throw 
open to the poorer classes those increased physical comforts, 
and facilities for moral and intellectual education, which are 
the most attractive characteristics of modern London life, 


234 


XXV.—TITE CITY AND THE CITIZENS. 


which associated numbers can command. The dining and 
refreshment rooms (where members may obtain dinner and 
refreshments at prices calculated merely to cover expenses, 
and free of gratuities to waitei’s), reading, neAvs, chess, and 
smoking rooms, are open from eight in the morning till 
night. There is a large lecture hall, serving also for music 
and dancing. 

Classes ai’e established for the study and practice of lan¬ 
guages, chemistry, vocal music, elocution, mathematics, his¬ 
toric and dramatic literature, discussion, fencing, dancing, &c. 


XXV.-THE CITY AND THE CITIZENS. 

The entire civil government of the City of London, Avithin 
the walls and liberties, is vested, by successive charters of 
English soA^ereigns, in one Corporation, or body of citizens; 
confirmed for the last time by a charter passed in the 23rd 
of George II. As then settled, the corporation consists of 
the Lord Mayor, 26 aldei-men (including the Lord Mayor), 
2 sheriffs for London and Middlesex conjointly, the common 
councilmen of the several wards, 206 in number, and a livery ; 
assisted by a recorder, chamberlain, common serjeant, 
comptroller, remembrancer, toAvn-clerk, &c. The number of 
liverymen is about 10,000, and of freemen above 20,000. 

The City is divided into 26 Wards bearing the same- 
relation to the City that the Hundred anciently did to 
the Shire, each represented by an alderman, and divided 
into precincts, each precinct returning one common council¬ 
man. Tlie common councilmen and Ward officers are 
elected annually, and the meetings of the aldermen and 
common council are called Wardmotes. 

The senior alderman represents Bridge-Ward Without, and 
is popularly knoAvn as “the Father of the City.” The aider- 
men are chosen by such householders as are freemen and 
pay an annual rent of lOZ.; each alderman is elected for life. 
The civic offices are chiefiy filled by second-class citizens in 
point of station — the principal bankers and merchants 
uniformly declining to fill them, and paying, at times, heavy 
fines to be exempted from serving. 

• The first Mayor of London was Fitz AIavvii. The title of 
“ Lord ” Avas prefixed probably about 1327, AA'lien by charter 
of Edward III. he Avas made, ex officio, one of the Justiciars 
for Gaol Delivery at NeAvgate. 

The City arms are the sword of St. Paul and the cross of 



XXV.—THE CITY. 


235 


St. George. The City was commonly called Cockaigne, and 
the name Cockney—one cockered and spoilt—is generally 
applied to people born within the sound of the bells of the 
church of St. Mary-le-Bow, in Cheapside. Miusheu, who com- 
piled a valuable dictionary of the English language in the 
reign of James I., says, “ Cockney is applied only to one born 
within the sound of Bow bells, i.e. withm the City of London, 
which term came first out of this tale, that a citizen’s sou riding 
with his father out of Loudon into th5 country, and being a 
novice, and merely ignorant how corn or cattle increased, 
asked, when he heard a horse neigh, Gvhat the horse didl’ 
his father answered, ‘the horse doth neigh;’ riding farther he 
heard a cock crow, and said, ‘ doth the cock neigh too 1 ’ and 
therefore, Cockney by inversion thus, incock q. incoctus, 
i.e., raw or unripe in countrymen’s affairs.” Every person 
of fidl age and not subject to any legal incapacity may 
become a freeman of the City of London on the payment 
of 61. 5s. id. 


MANSION-HOUSE, the heart of the City, from which 
radiate Cornhill, Queen Victoria-street, Threadneedle- 
street, Cheapside, Lombard-street, and King William-street 
—the residence of the Lord Mayor during his term of office 
—was built 1739-41, from the designs of George Dance, the 
City surveyor. Lord Burlington sent a design by Palladio, 
which was rejected by the City on the inquiry of a Common 
Councilman: “Who was Palladio 1—was he a freeman of the 
City, and was he not a Koman Catholic ? ” It is said to have 
cost 71,000Z. The principal room is the Egyptian Hall, 
so called because in its original construction it exactly cor¬ 
responded with the Egyptian Hall described by Vitruvius. 
It is decorated with statues by modern British artists, on 
which 8000Z. are said to have been laid out—Caractacus and 
Egeria, by Foley ; Genius and the Morning Star, by Bailey ; 
Comus, by Lough; and Griselda, by Marshall. In this Hall, 
on Easter Monday, the Lord Mayor gives a great banquet 
and ball to 300 or 350 persons. 

The Lord Mayor of London is chosen every 29th of 
September, from the aldermen below the chair, who have 
served the office of sheriff; and he is installed in office 
every 9th of November, when “The Show” or procession 
between London and Westminster takes place. This, since 
1867, has been parod of its former pomp; its men in 
armour, standard bearers, &c., which excited the emulation 
of good Apprentices of former days, The procession starts 
from Guildhall about noon, proceeds, escorted by Cavalry, 


236 


*XXV.—MANSION-HOUSE. 


along Cannon Street, Victoria Street, the Thames Embank¬ 
ment, to Westminster, returning by Charing Cross, Strand, 
Fleet Street, and Cheapside. He is sworn in at Westminster 
Hall before one of the Barons of the Exchequer, and then 
returns to preside at the great mayoralty dinner in Guild¬ 
hall. The procession of gilt barges up the river ceased in 
1858. The large lumbering carved and gilt coach, in which 
the Lord Mayor rode, was painted and designed by Cipriani, 
in 1757. Its originaT cost was 1065^. 3s.; and an expendi- 
tm-e of upwards of 100^. was every year incurred to keep 
it in repail’. The chief magistrate is robed in red cloak, 
and collar of SS., attended by his chaplain, and sword and 
mace bearers. The sword-bearer carries the sword in the 
pearl scabbard, presented to the Corporation by Queen Eliza¬ 
beth upon opening the Eoyal Exchange, and the mace-bearer 
the great gold mace given to the City by Charles I. The 
annual salary of the Lord Mayor is 8000Z.; and the annual 
income of the Corporation of London, about 400,000^., 
arising from—Coal* and Wine Dues; Rents and Quit Rents; 
Markets; Brokers’ Rents and Fines; Admissions to the 
Freedom of the City; Renewing Fines for Leases. The 
Lord Mayor generally spends, more than his income, but 
more than 25 per cent, of the Corporation income is paid 
away in salaries. Thus the Mace-bearer and Sword-bearer 
each receives 5501. a-year. The administration of justice at 
the Central Ci’iminal Court in the Old Bailey costs about 
12,182^. a-year; the City Police, about 10,118^. a-year; Hew- 
gate, about 9223^. a-year; the House of Correction, about 
76027 a-year; the Debtors’ Prison, about 49557 a-year. 
The Conservancy of the Thames and Medway is entrusted 
to the Lord Mayor, and six other members of the Cor¬ 
poration, jointly with seven members appointed by Govern¬ 
ment. The income from Tonnage, Tolls, Pier Dues, &c., 
amounts to about 60,0007, and is expended chiefly on im-’ 
proving and maintaining the navigation. The Lord Mayor, 
as the chief magistrate of the City, has the right of pre¬ 
cedence in the City before all the Royal Family; a right 
disputed in St. Paul’s Cathedral by George IV., when Prince 
of Wales, but maintained by Sir James Shaw, the Lord Mayor, 
and confirmed at the same time by King George III. At the 
Sovereign’s death he takes his seat at the Privy Council, and 
signs before any other subject. The entire City is placed 
in his custody, and it is usual to close Temple Bar at the 
approach of the Sovereign, not in order to exclude hex’, but 
in order to admit her in form. 

* 13cf. a ton is paid on all coals sold in London, within the range of the 
Metropolitan police. 


XXV.—GUILDHALL—LORD MAYOR’S DINNER. 237 

GUILDHALL of the City of Loudon is at the foot of 
King Street, Cheapside, in the ward of Cheap, and was first 
built in 1411 (12th of Henry IV.), prior to which time the* 
Courts were held in Aldermanbury. Of the original building 
there is nothing left but the stone and mortar of the walls; 
two windows; and a crypt, about half of the length of the 
present Hall. The front towards King-street was seriously 
injured in the Great Fire, and the mongrel substitute 
erected 1789, fi’om the designs of the younger Dance, 
was, 1865-68, replaced by a more coiTect front. In 1867, 
when the building was repaired, a fine opeu-woi'k 
gothic roof of wood was added to the Hall, at a cost 
of near 3000Z. The Great Hall, 153 feet long, 50 feet 
bi’oad, and 55 high, used for public meetings of the 
citizens, elections, &c., contains a few monuments of very 
ordinary character. Observe .—Pyramidical monument to the 
great Lord Chatham, by the elder Bacon; the insciiption 
by Burke. Monument to William Pitt, by Buhh ; the 
inscription by Canning. Monument to Nelson, by Smith; 
the inscription by Sheridan. Monument to the Duke of 
Wellington has replaced that to Lord Mayor Beckford 
(the father of the author of Vathek) inscribed with his 
intended speech (which was never spoken) to King George 
III. The two giants at the lower end of the Hall—some¬ 
times "carried in the pageant of a Lord Mayor’s Day—are 
known as Gog and Magog, though antiquaries differ about 
their proper appellation, some calling them Colbrand and 
Brandamore, others Corinous and Gogmagog. They were 
carved by Richard Saunders, and set up in the Hall in 1708. 
In the Common Council Chamber, abutting from the Hall, 
ohsei've :—Standing statue of George III. {Chantrey’s first 
statue); fine bust, by the same artist, of Granville Sharp ; 
bust of Lord Nelson, by Mrs. Damer ; The Siege of Gibraltar, 
by Copley, R.A. (father of Lord Lyndhurst); Death of Wat 
Tyler, by Northcote, R.A.; whole-length of Queen Anne, by 
Closterman ; Portraits of Judges (Sir Matthew Hale and 
others) who sat at Clifford’s Inn after the Great Fire, 
and arranged all the differences between landlord and 
tenant during the great business of rebuilding, by Michael 
Wrirjht. A public dinner is given in this Hall, every 9th of 
November, by the new Lord Mayor for the coming year. 
The Hall on this occasion is divided into two distinct but 
not equal portions. The upper end or dais is called the 
Hustings (from an old Court of that name); the lower the 
Body of the Hall. Her Majesty’s ministers and the gi’eat 
Law officers of the Crown invai’iably attend this dinner. At 
the upper end or dais the courses are all hot at the lower 


238 XXV.—GUILDHALL LIBRARY—TEMPLE BAR. 


end only the turtle. The scene is well worth seeing—the 
loving-cup and the barons of beef carrying the mind back to 
mediaeval times and manners. The folloAving is a Bill of 
Fare:— 


250 Tureens of Real Tur¬ 
tle, containing 5 
pints each. 

200 Bottles of Sherbet. 

6 Dishes of Fish. 

30 Entrees. 

4 Boiled Turkeys and 
Oysters. 

60 Roast Pullets. 

60 Dishes of Fowls. 

46 Ditto of Capons. 

6 Do. of Capt. White’s 
Selim’s true India 
Curries. 

50 French Pies. 

60 Pigeon Pies. 

53 Hams ornamented. 

43 Tongues. [Lamb. 

2 Quartei's of House- 

2 Barons of Beef. 

3 Rounds of Beef. 

2 Stewed Rumps of 
Beef. 


13 Sii'loius, Rumps, I 

and Ribs of Beef. 

6 Dishes of Asparagus 
60 Ditto of Mashed and 
• other Potatoes. 

44 Ditto of Shell Fish. 

4 Ditto of Prawns. 

140 Jellies, 

.50 Blancmanges. 

40 Dishes of Tarts, 
creamed. [Pastry. 
40 Dishes of Almond 
30 Ditto of Orange and 
other Tourtes. 

20 Chantilly Baskets. 
60 Dishes of Mince Pies 
56 Salads. 

THE REMOVES. 

80 Roast Turkeys. 

6 Leverets. 

80 Pheasants. 

24 Geese. 


40 Dishes of Partridges 

15 Dishes of Wild Fowl 
2 Pea Fowls. 

DESSERT. 

100 Pine Apples, from 
2 to 3 lbs. each. 

200 Dishes of llot-house 
Grapes, 

250 Ice Creams. 

50 Dishes of Apples. 

100 Ditto of Pears. 

60 Ornamented Savoy 
Cakes. 

76 Plates of Walnuts. 

80 Ditto of dried Fruit 
and Preserves. 

50 Ditto of Preserved 
Ginger. 

60 Ditto of Rout Cakes 
and Chips, 

46 Ditto of Brandy 
Cherries. 


The cost of the Banquet and Procession is about 2200^., of 
which the Lord Mayor pays 1000^., and the two Sheriffs 
600^. each. 

The Guildhall or City of London Library ” and Reading 
Room, built 1871-2, behind the Guildhall, on a site given 
by tlie Corporation, along with a sum of 25,000^. for the 
building. This handsome and useful suite of rooms will 
serve at times for the reception of guests. The Library 
contains near 30,000 vols., a large collection of early printed 
plays and pageants, &c., connected with the City; and Shak- 
speare’s signatui’e, attached to a deed of conveyance, for 
which the Corporation of London gave, at a public sale, the 
sum of 147L Antiquities, &c., discovered in making the 
excavations for the New Eoyal Exchange; a gi’oup of the 
Dese Matres, found in Crutched Fi'iars; a hexagon Column, 
erected by Anaucletus Provincialis and his wife; a fluted 
marble Sarcophagus, 4th century, from Clapton; also a 
large collection of Pilgrim tokens of the Middle Ages. 

The Court of Aldermen holds its meetings in Guildhall. 

TEMPLE BAR. A gateway of Portland stone, separating 
the Strand from Fleet-street, and the Cityfrom the shire; built 
by Wren (1670). On the E. side, in niches, are statues of 




XXV.—TEMPLE —THE MONUMENT. 


239 


Queen Elizabeth and James I,, and on the W. side, those of 
Charles I. and Chai’les II., all by John Bushnell (d. 1701). 
The gates are invariably closed by the City authorities when¬ 
ever the sovereign has occasion to enter the City, and at 
no other time. The visit of the sovereign is, indeed, a 
rare occurrence—confined to a thanksgiving in St. Paul’s 
for some important victory, or the opening of a public build¬ 
ing like the New Royal Exchange. A herald sounds a 
trumpet before the gate—another herald knocks—a parley 
ensues—the gates are then thrown open, and the Lord Mayor 
for the time being makes over the sword of the City to 
the sovereign, who graciously returns it to the Mayor. The 
mangled remains of Sir Thomas Armstrong, concerned in 
the Rye House Plot, the head and quartei’s of Sir William 
Perkins and Sir John Friend, implicated in the attempt to 
assassinate William III., were among the early ornaments 
of the present Bar. The last of this character on the 
Bar were the heads of the victims of the fatal “’45.” “I 
have been this morning at the Tower,” Walpole writes to 
Montagu, Aug. 16th, 1746, “ and passed under the new heads 
at Temple Bar, where people make a trade of letting spying- 
glasses at a half-penny a look.” “ I remember,” said Johnson, 
“ once being with Goldsmith in Westminster Abbey. While 
he surveyed Poets’ Corner, I said to him :— 

' Forsitan et nostrum nomen miscebitur istis.’ 

When we got to the Temple Bar he stopped me, pointed to the 
heads upon it, and slily whispered me ; 

‘ Forsitan et nostrum nomen miscebitur istis.’ ” 

Johnson was a Jacobite at heart. The last heads which 
remained on the Bar were those of Fletcher and Townley. 
The interior of the Bar is leased from the City, by Messrs. 
Child, the bankers, as a repository for the ledgers and cash 
books of their house. It seems not improbable that when 
the new Law Courts (.9ee Index) are built, Temple Bar may 
be relieved from the buildings on either side, so as to 
admit the traffic to pass round it. 

The MONUMENT, on Fish Street Hill, is a fluted 
column of the Doric order, erected to commemorate the 
Great Fire of London (2—7 Sept. 1666). The design was 
made by Sir Christopher Wren; the bas-relief on the pedi¬ 
ment carved by Caius Gabriel Cibber, the father of Colley 
Cibber; the four dragons at the four angles by Edward 
Pierce, for which he had, as Walpole tells us, 50 guineas 
a piece; the Latin inscriptions, written by Dr. Gale, Dean of 


240 


XXV.—THE CITY COMPANIES. 


York; and the whole structure erected in six years(1671-77), 
for the sum of 13,700^. It is 202 feet high, and stands at a 
distance of 202 feet from the site of the house in Pudding- 
lane, in which the fire originated. It is hollow, and contains 
a staircase of 345 steps. Admittance from 9 till dark ; 
charge, 3d. each person. The urn on the top is 42 feet high. 
Wren’s first design was a pillar invested by flames, sur¬ 
mounted by a phoenix; “ but, upon second thoughts,” he 
says, “I rejected it, because it will be costly, not easily 
understood at that height, and worse understood at a 
distance, and lastly dangerous, by reason of the sail the 
spread wings will carry in the wind.” He then designed a 
statue of Charles II., and showed it to that King for his 
approbation; but Charles, ‘‘not that his Majesty,” says 
Wren, “ disliked a statue, was pleased to think a large ball 
of metal, gilt, would be more agreeable; ” and the present 
vase of flames was in consequence adopted. The following 
inscription was at one time to be read round the plinth, 
beginning at the west:— 

W.] “this PILLAK WAS SET VP IN PERPETVALL EEMEMBBANCE OF THAT 
MOST DREADFUL BURNING OF THIS PROTESTANT [S.] CITY, BEGUN 
AND CARRYED ON BY YE TREACHERY AND MALICE OF A"E POPISH 
FACTIO, IN YE BEGINNING OF SEPTEM. IN YE YEAR OF [E.] OUR 
LORD 1666, IN ORDER TO YE CARRYING ON THEIR HORRID PLOTT 
FOR EXTIRPATING [N.] YE PROTESTANT RELIGION AND OLD 
ENGLISH LIBERTY, AND YE INTRODUCING POPERY AND SLAVERY.” 

And the inscription on the north side concluded as follows :— 

“ SED FVROR PAPISTICVS QVI TAM DIRA PATRAVIT NONDUM 
RESTINGVITVR.” 

These offensive paragraphs formed no part of the original 
inscription, but were added in 1681, by order of the Court 
of Aldermen, when Titus Oates and his plot had filled the 
City with a fear and horror of the Papists. They were 
obliterated in the reign of James II., re-cut deeper than 
before in the reign of William III., and finally erased (by an 
Act of Common Council) Jan. 26th, 1831. 

Six persons have thrown themselves off the Monument. 
This kind of death becoming popular, it ivas deemed advis¬ 
able to encage and disfigure the Monument as we now see 
it. Goldsmith, when in destitute circumstances in London, 
filled for a short time the situation of shopman to a chemist, 
residing at the corner of Monument or Bell Yard, on Fish- 
street-hill. 


The CITY COMPANIES of importance include “ The 


XXV.—mercers’ hall—grocers’ hall. 241 

Twelve Great Companies,” so called, and about six others, 
though the total number of City Companies still existing is 
82: forty of whom, however, are without halls. Many, 
of these are very rich, but very few exercise any of their 
old privileges. The following are the Halls of the Twelve 
Great Companies, arranged in the order of precedence; 
and such was the importance attached to the Twelve 
that it was formerly necessary for a citizen, if a mem¬ 
ber of any other than the Twelve Great C(5mpanies, to 
quit his own Company on becoming an alderman, and enter 
into one of the Twelve. The precedence of the twelve is 
thought to have originated in the selection of twelve citizens 
to attend the Lord Mayor in his office of Butler at the 
Coronation Feast. 

1. MERCERS’ HALL and CHAPEL, Cheapside, between 
Ironmonger-lane and Old Jewry. The Cheapside front is 
a characteristic specimen of the enriched decoration em¬ 
ployed in London immediately after the Great Fire. Observe. 
—Portrait of Dean Colet, founder of St. Paul’s School (his 
father was a mercer, and Colet left the management of the 
school to the Mercers’ Company ); portrait of Sir Thomas 
Gresham, also a member. Another eminent member was 
Whitington, four times Lord Mayor of London. Thomas 
Becket, the archbishop and saint, was born in a house on 
the site of the Mercei*s’ Chapel, originally an hospital of 
St. Thomas of Aeon or Acres, founded by the sister of 
Becket, and at the dissolution of religious houses bought 
by the Mercers. Guy, the bookseller and founder of the 
hospital which bears his name, was bound apprentice to a 
bookseller. Sept. 2nd, 1660, “in the porch of Mercers’ 
Chapel.” That part of Cheapside adjoining the Mercers’ 
Chapel was originally called the Mercery. Queen Elizabeth 
was free of the Mercers’ Company,—King James I. was a 
Clothworker. The usual entrance to the Hall is in Iron- 
monger-lane. The Mercers’ is the oldest of the City guilds. 
On it depend the Whittington Almshouses, St. Paul’s School, 
and the Mercers’ School. Among the plate which the Mer¬ 
cers possess is a silver-gilt, chased cup, gift of Sir Th. Leigh, 
1558, and a tun on wheels, reputed to be a present from 
Sir Richard Whittington. 

2. GROCERS’ HALL, in the Poultry, next No. 35. The 
Company was incorporated by Edward III., in 1345, under 
the title of “ The Wardens and Commonalty of the Mystery 
of the Grocers of the City of London.” They had previously 

R 


242 


XXV.—drapers’ hall. 


existed under the primitive name of Pepperers, and were 
subsequently united with the Apothecaries. The first Hall 
of the Grocers of which we have any account was built in 1427. 
Their second was built after the Great Fire ; and their third, 
the present edifice (Thomas Leverton, architect), was com¬ 
menced in 1798, and opened 1802. Their patron saint is 
St. Anthony. The Committee of the House of Commons, 
for resisting Charles I.’s attempt to seize the five members, 
met here in Jan. 1647. The City dinners to the Long Parlia¬ 
ment were given in Grocers’ Hall, and here the Governors and 
Company of the Bank of England held their Coui’ts from 
the establishment of the Bank in 1694 to 1734. Sir Philip 
Sidney was free of the Grocers’ Company, and the Grocers 
rode in procession at his funeral. Abel Dnigger, the 
Tobacco Man in Ben Jonson’s Alchemist, is “free of the 
Grocers.” The most distinguished warden in the Company’s 
list is Sir John Cutler, most unjustly represented as penurious 
by the poet Pope. A portrait and statue of Cutler adorn 
the Hall of the Company, who was in reality a liberal man 
and benefactor,* not only to his own Company but to 
various charities, and to science by founding a Gresham 
Lectui’eship. 

3. DRAPERS’ HALL, Throgmorton Street, City, re¬ 
built from a grand design, 1869, has a handsome Hall for 
banquets. The Company was incorporated in 1439, and 
settled in Throgmorton-street in 1541, on the attainder of 
Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, whose house and garden- 
ground they acquired by purchase of Henry VIII. 

“ This house being finished, and having some reasonable plot of ground 
left for a garden, he [Cromwell] caused the pales of the gardens adjoining 
to the north part thei-eof, on a sudden to be taken down; twenty-two feet 
to be measured forth right into the north of every man’s ground; a line 
there to be drawn, a trench to be cast, a foundation laid, and a high brick 
wall to be built. My father had a garden there, and a house standing 
close to his south pale; this house they loosed from the ground, and bare 
upon rollers into my father’s garden twenty-two feet, ere my father heard 
thereof; no warning was given him, nor other answer, when he spake to 
the surveyors of that work, but that their master. Sir Thomas, com¬ 
manded them so to do. No man durst go to argue the matter, but each 
man lost his land, and my father paid his whole rent, which was 6s. 6(1. 
the year for that half which was left.”—p. 68. 

Cromwell’s bouse was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666; 
and the new Hall of the Company was erected in the suc¬ 
ceeding year from the designs of Jarman, ai’chitect of the 
second Royal Exchange. Drapei’s’-gardens extended hT. as 
far as London Wall, and must have commanded formerly a 

* See Account cf the Company of Grocers, by John Benjamin Heath. 
Esq., 1854. ' 


XXV.—fishmongers’ hall—goldsmiths’ hall. 243 

fine view of Higligate and tlie adjoining heights. Ward 
commends them in his London Spy” as a fashionable 
promenade “an hour before dinner time.” Observe. —Por¬ 
trait by Sir William Beechey of Admiral Lord Nelson, and 
a curious picture, attributed to Zuccliero, and engraved by 
Bartolozzi, of Mary, Queen of Scots, and her son, James I., 
when four years old. 

4. FISHMONGERS’ HALL, at the north foot of London 
Bridge, erected 1831, on the site of the old Hall built after 
the Great Fire by Jarman, the City surveyor. The earliest 
extant charter of the Company is a patent of the 37th of 
Edw. III.; while the acting charter of incorporation is dated 
2nd of James I. The London Fishmongers were divided 
formerly into two distinct classes, “ Stock-fishmongers ” and 
“ Salt-fishmongers.” Then Thames-street was known as 
“ Stock-Fishmonger-row,” and the old Fish-market of London 
was “ above bridge,” in what is now called Old Fish-street- 
hill, in the ward of'Queenhithe, not as now, “below bridge,” 
in Thames-street, in the ward of Billingsgate. The Company 
is divided into liverymen (about 350 in number), and free¬ 
men (about 1000). The imhng body consists of 34—the 
prime warden, 5 wardens, and 28 assistants. The freedomis 
obtained by patrimony, servitude, redemption (for defective 
service), or gift. The purchase-money of the freedom is 105/. 
Eminent Members. —Sir William Walworth, who slew Wat 
Tyler; Isaac Pennington, the turbulent Lord Mayor of the Civil 
War under Charles I.; Dogget, the comedian and whig, who 
bequeathed a sum of money for the purchase of a “ coat and 
badge ” to be rowed for every 1st of August from the Swan 
at London Bridge to the Swan at Chelsea, in remembrance 
of George I.’s accession to the throne. Observe. —A funeral 
pall or hearse-cloth of the age of Henry VIII., very fine, and 
carefully engraved by Shaw ; original drawing of a portion 
of the pageant exhibited by the Fishmongers’ Company, 
Oct. 29th, 1616, on the occasion of Sir John Leman, a 
member of the Company, entering on the office of Lord 
Mayor of the City of London; statue of Sir William Wal¬ 
worth, by Edward Pierce; portraits of William III. and 
Queen, by Murray; George II. and Queen, by ShacMeton; 
Duke of Kent, by Beechey ; Earl St. Vincent (the Admiral), 
by Beechey ; and Queen Victoria, by Herbert Smith. 

5. GOLDSMITHS’ HALL, Foster Lane, Cheapside, be¬ 
hind the General Post Office, built by Philip Hardwick, R.A., 
and opened with one of those splendid banquets for which 
this Company is so renowned, July 15th, 1835. The Goldsmiths 

R 2 


214 


XXV.—skinners’ hall. 


existed as a guild from a very early period, but were not 
incorporated before 1327, the 1st of Edward III. Henry 
Fitz-Alwin, the first Mayor of London, and who continued 
Mayor for upwards of 24 years, was a goldsmith of the 
guild. The Goldsmiths’ Company possess the privilege of 
assaying and stamping all articles of gold and silver manu¬ 
facture, pursuant to acts 12 Geo. II. c. 26, 24 Geo. III. c. 53, 
38 Geo. III. c. 59, and 8 Viet. c. 22. The assays in one day 
are about 150, and are conducted as follows :—They scrape a 
portion from every piece of plate manufactured, and send it 
to their assay master. If found true to the standard quan¬ 
tities, the articles are passed; if what is called of “ deceitful 
Avork,” they are destroyed. These standard scrapings are 
afterwards melted down and assayed by the Company, to 
whom they belong. This last assay is a sort of ‘^pix” by the 
Company on the practice of its assayers. The Hall mark, 
stamped on the several articles assayed, consists of the 
Sovereign’s head, the royal lion, the leopard of the old royal 
arms of England, and the letter in the alphabet wliich marks 
the year of the Sovereign’s reign when the assay was made. 
The allowance to the Company is 2^ per cent., and the 
receipts for stamping are paid over to the Inland Revenue 
Oflace. Observe .—The exterior of the Hall itself, a noble 
specimen of Mr. Hardwick’s abihties—bold and well-propor¬ 
tioned in every part. On the staircase, full-length portraits 
of George IV,, by Nortlicote; William IV., by Shee; George 
III., and his Queen, by Ramsay. In the Livery Tea Room, 
a Conversation-piece, by Hudson (Sir Joshua Reynolds’s 
master). In the Committee Room, the original portrait, by 
Jansen, of a liveryman of the Company, the celebrated Sir 
Hugh Middelton, who brought the Hew River to London : 
portrait of Sir Martin Bowes, Avith the cup he bequeathed to 
the Goldsmiths’ Company, standing on the table before him ; 
(Queen Elizabeth is said to have drunk out of this cup at 
her coronation; it is still preserved) : Roman altar, exhi¬ 
biting a full-length figure of Apollo, in relief, found in 
digging the foundations for the present Hall: full-length 
portraits of Queen Victoria, by Hayter; Queen Adelaide, 
by Shee; Prince Albeii;, by Smith; and marble busts, by 
Chantrey, of George III,, George IV., and William IV. 

6. SKINNERS’ HALL, Dowgate Hill. The Company 
was incorporated in 1327, and the government vested in a 
master, 4 wardens, and 60 assistants, with a livery of 137 
members. The Hall was destroyed in the Great Fire, and 
immediately rebuilt. The present front was added by an 


XXV.—MKllCUANT TAILORS’ HALL. 245 

architect of the name of Jupp, about 1808. The mode of 
electing,a master is curious. A cap of maintenance is carried 
into the Hall in great state, and is tried on by the old 
master, who announces that it will not fit him. He then 
passes it on to be tried by several next him. Two or three 
more misfits occur, till at last the cap is handed to the 
intended new master, for whom it was made. The wai’dens 
are elected in the same manner. The gowns of the livery¬ 
men were faced, in former times, with budge. Budge-rov:, 
in Watling-street, was so called of budge-fur, and of the 
skinners dwelling there. Observe. —Portrait of Sir Andrew 
Judd, Lord Mayor of London in 1551, and founder of the 
large and excellent school at Tunbridge, of which the 
Skinners’ Company have the patronage and supervision. 

7. MERCHANT TAILORS’ HALL, in Threadneedle 
Street, a little beyond Finch-lane, but concealed from the 
street. Company incorporated 1466. It has the honour 
to enumerate among its members several of the Kings of 
England and many of the chief nobility. The Hall was 
built, after the Great Fire, by Jarman, the City architect, 
and is the largest of the Companies’ Halls. The Merchant 
Tailors’ is the gi’eat Tory Company, as the Fishmongei’s’ 
is the gi’eat Whig Company. Here, in 1835, a grand 
■dinner was given to Sir Robert Peel, at which the whole 
body of Conservative Members of the House of Commons 
were present, and Sir Robert announced the new principles 
of his party ; and here, in 1851, a similar dinner was given 
to Lord Stanley, at which 200 Members of the House of 
Commons were present, and Lord Stanley explained the 
prospects of the party. A few portraits deserve inspection. 
Observe. —Head of Henry VIII., by Paris Bordone ; head of 
Charles I.; three-quarter portrait of Charles II.; full-length 
of Charles II.; full-length of James II.; full-length of 
William III.; full-length of Queen Anne; full-lengths of 
George III. and his Queen, by Ramsay (same as at Gold¬ 
smiths’ Hall); full-length of the late Duke of York, by Sir 
Thomas Lawrence; full-length, seated, of Lord Chancellor 
Flldon, by Briggs; full-length of the Duke of Wellington, by 
WiVcie (with a horse by his side, very spirited but not very 
like).; three-quarter of Mr. Pitt, by Hoppner. Also among 
the following portraits of old officers of the Company 
(artists unknown). Sir Thomas White, master, 1561, founder 
of St. John’s College, Oxford. Stow, the chronicler, and 
Speed, the historian, were Merchant Tailors. Mode of 
A dmission. —Order from the master; for the master’s address, 


246 


XXV.—vintners’ hall. 

apply to the clerk, at his office in the Hall. When Dr. South 
was appointed Chaplain to this Company, he took for the 
text of his inauguration sermon, A remnant of all shall be 
saved.” 

8. HABERDASHEKS’ HALL, at Staining Lane end, 
Cheapside, behind the Post-office, the Hall of the Haber¬ 
dashers, the eighth on the list of the Twelve Great Com¬ 
panies. The Hall was destroyed in the Great Fire, and 
rebuilt, it is said, by Wren. It was again rebuilt, 1855, 
The Hall contains a miscellaneous collection of poi-traits, 
but not one of any consequence or merit. The Haber¬ 
dashers were originally called Hurrers and Milaners, and 
were incorporated 26th of Hemy VI. 

9. SALTERS’ HALL, Oxford Court, St. Swithin’s Lane 
the Hall of the Master, Wardens, and Commonalty of the 
Art or Mysteiy of Salters. The present Hall was built by 
Henry CaiT, architect, and opened 1827. Oxfoi’d-court, in 
which the Hall is situated, was so called from John de Vere, 
the sixteenth Earl of Oxford of that name, who died in 1562, 
and was originally the site of the inn or hostel of the Priors 
of Tortiugton, in Sussex. Empson and Dudley, notorious 
as the unscinipulous instruments of Henry Vll.’s avaiice in 
the later and more unpopular years of his reign, lived in 
Walbrook, in two fair houses,” with doora leading into the 
garden of the Prior of ToHington (now Salters’-gardeu). 

Here they met,” says Stow, “ and consulted of matters at 
their pleasures.” Observe .-—Portrait of Adrian Charpentier, 
painter of the clever and only good portrait of Roubiliac, 
the sculptor. 

10. IRONMONGERS’ HALL, on the north side of 
Fenchurch Street. The present Hall was erected by 
Thomas Holden, architect, whose name, with the date 1748, 
appears on the front. The Ironmongers were incorporated 
for the fii-st time in 1464 :—3rd of Edward IV. Obsene .— 
Portrait of Admiral Lord Viscount Hood, by GainsborourjU ; 
presented by Lord Hood, on his admission into this Com¬ 
pany in 1783, after the freedom of the City had been con¬ 
ferred upon him for his eminent naval services. The great 
Banqueting-hall has been decorated in the Elizabethan style, 
in papier m^ch^ and carton pierre. 

11. VINTNERS’ HALL, on the river side of Upper 
Thames Street. It is a modern building of small preten- 


XXV.—apothecaries’ hall. 


247 


sions, but the Company is of great antiquity, lu the Court¬ 
room are full-length portraits of Charles II., James II., 
Marie D’Este, and Prince George of Denmark. The patron 
saint of the Company is St. Martin, and one of the churches in 
the ward of Vintry was called St. Martin’s-in-the-Vintry. 

12. CLOTHWORKERS’ HALL, on the east side of 
Mincing Lane, Fenchurch Street. A handsome building, 
re-erected 1860, Angell architect. The Clothworkers were 
originally incorporated temp. Edw. II. (1482) as Shernieii 
(shearers) and were united with the Fullers, 1528. King 
James I. joined himself unto the Clothworkers, as men 
dealing in the principal and noblest staple ware of all 
these Islands. “ Beeing in the open hall, he asked who was 
master of the company, and the Lord Mayor answ'ered, Syr 
William Stone; unto whom the King said, ‘ Wilt thou 
make me free of the Clothworkers]’ ‘Yea,’ quoth the 
master, ‘ and thinke myselfe a happy man that I live to 
see this day.’ Then the King said, ‘Stone, give me thy 
hand, and now I am a Cloth worker.’ ” Pepys, who was 
Master in 1677, presented a richly-chased silver “ Loving 
Cup,” still in the possession of the Company, and used on 
all festive occasions. 

Of the other Halls of Companies the most important are— 

APOTHECARIES’ HALL, Water Lane, Blackpriars. 
A brick and stone building, erected in 1670 as the Dispen¬ 
sary and Hall of the Incorporated Company of Apothecaries. 

“ Nigh where Fleet Ditch descends in sable streams, 

To wash his sooty Naiads in the Thames, 

There stands a stnicture on a rising hill. 

Where tyros take their freedom out to kill.” 

Garth^ The Dispensary. 

The Grocers and the Apothecaries were originally one Com¬ 
pany ; but this union did not exist above eleven years. King 
James I., at the suit of Gideon Delaune (d. 1659), his own 
apothecary, granting (1617) a charter to the Apothecaries as 
a separate Company. In the Hall is a small good portrait of 
James I., and a contempomry statue of Delaune. In 1687 
commenced a controvei'sy between the College of Physicians 
and the Company of Apothecaries, the heats and bicker¬ 
ings of which were the occasion of Garth’s poem of The 
Dispensary. The Apothecaries have a Botanic Garden at 
Chelsea; and still retain the power of granting certificates to 
competent persons to dispense medicines. In the Hall is a 
w’ell-supported retail-shop, for the sale of unadulterated 
medicines. 


248 


XXV.—stationers’ hall. 


STATIONERS’ HALL, Stationers’ Hall Court, Ludgate 
Hill. The Hall of the “ Master and Keepers or Wardens and 
Commonalty of the Mystery or Art of the Stationers of the City 
of London,” the only London Company entirely restricted 
to the members of its own craft. The Company was incorpo¬ 
rated in the reign of Philip and Mary, and the present Hall 
erected on the site of Burgaveny House, belonging to Henry 
Nevill, sixth Lord Abei’gavenny (d. 1587). The Hall was 
destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, when the Stationers of 
London (the greatest sufferers on that occasion) lost property, 
it is said, to the amount of 200,000?. Observe .—Portraits of 
Prior and Steele (good); of Richai'dson, the novelist. Master 
of the Company in 1754, and of his wife (both by High- 
more)-, of Alderman Boydell, by Graham; of Vincent 
Wing, the astrologer; Wing died in 1668, but his name 
is still continued as the compiler of the sheet almanacks 
of the Stationers’ Company. Printers were obliged to serve 
their time to a member of the Company, and every pub¬ 
lication, from a Bible to a ballad, was required to be 
“ Entered at Stationers’ Hall.” The service is now unneces¬ 
sary; but under the actual Copyright Act, the proprietor 
of eveiy published work is required, for his own protection, 
to register in the books of the Stationers’ Company, its title, 
owner, and date of publication, in order to secure it from 
piracy. The fee is bs. The number of Freemen is between 
1000 and 1100, and of the lively, or leading persons, about 450. 
The Company’s capital is upwards of 40,000?., divided into 
shares varying in value from 40?. to 400?. each. The great 
treasure of the Company is its register of works entered 
for publication, commencing in 1557, published by the 
Shakespeare Society. The only publications which the Com¬ 
pany continues to make are almanacks, of which they had 
once the entire monopoly, and a Latin Gradus. Almanack 
day at Stationers’ Hall (every 22nd of November, at 3 
o’clock) is a sight worth seeing, for the bustle of the porters 
anxious to get off with early supplies. The celebrated Bible 
of the year 1632, with the important word “ not ” omitted in 
the seventh commandment, “ Thou shalt commit adultery,” 
was printed by the Stationers’ Company. The omission was 
made a Star-Chamber matter by Archbishop Laud, and a 
heavy fine laid on the Company for their neglect. 

In the Hall of the Armourers’ Company, Coleman-street, 
is a noble collection of mazers, hanaps, and silver-gilt cups, 
not to be matched by any other company in London, besides 
some curious old armour. 

Barber-Surgeons’ Hall, Monkwell-street, City, has been 


XXV.—CITY HALLS.—ARTILLERY COMPANY. 249 


pulled down except the Council Chamber, retaining a beauti¬ 
ful roof designed by Inigo Jones. In contains the picture, 
by Holbein, of Henry VIII, presenting the charter to the 
Company, perhaps the most important Avork of Holbein’s in 
England, but injured and painted over. Here are two silver- 
gilt cups, one presented by Henry VIII., the other by 
Charles II, At Weavers’ Hall, 22, Basinghall-street, is 
an old picture of William Lee, the Cambridge scholar, who 
invented the loom for weaving stockings: the picture repre¬ 
sents him pointing out his loom to a female knitter. At 
Saddlers’ Hall, Cheapside, is a fine Funeral Pall of 15th 
century work, inferior, however, to the Pall at the Fish¬ 
mongers’. At Carpenters’ Hall, Carpenters’ Buildings, 
London Wall, were to be seen four paintings in distemper, 
of a date as early as the reign of Edward IV.; ancient 
caps and crowns of the Master and Wardens, At Painter- 
Stainers’ Hall, Little Trinity Lane, is a portrait of Camden, 
the antiquary (son of a painter-stainer), and a Loving Cup, 
bequeathed by him to the Company, and used every St. 
Luke’s Day. 

CROSBY HALL, Bishopsgate Street. Built at end of 
15th century by Sir John Crosby, alderman; Avas sold by 
his widow, 1476, to Richard, Duke of Gloucester, who resided 
here, and here received the offer of the croAvn from the Lord 
Mayor and Alderman (see Shakspeare). Sir Thomas More 
lived here. It has since been by turns a Methodist meeting, 
an auction room, a literary institution, a wine-store, and is 
now a city Dining-room and Restaurant and mky be recom¬ 
mended as furnishing a right good dinner. It preserves its 
original oaken roof, and has some painted glass. ’ 

The ARTILLERY GROUND (Finsbury Square, Avest 
side) has been the exercising ground since 1622 of the 
Honourable Artillery Company of the City of London. The 
old City Trained Band was established 1585, during the fear of 
a Spanish invasion; new formed in 1610, and a Aveekly exercise 
in arms was adhered to Avith strict military discipline. When 
the Civil War broke out, the citizens of London (then carefully 
trained to war) took up arms against the King; and on all 
occasions, more especially at the battle of Newbury, behaved 
with admirable conduct and courage. Since the Restoration, 
they have led a peaceable life, and, except in 1780, Avhen their 
promptness preserved the Bank of England, have only been 
called out on state occasions, such as the public thanksgiving 
(1705) for the victories of the Duke of Marlborough, when 
Queen Anne went to St. Paul’s, and the Westminster Militia 


250 XXVJ.'—EMINEJJT PERSONS BORN IN LONDON. 


lined the streets from St. James’s to Temple Bar, and the 
City Trained Bands from Temple Bar to St. Paul’s. The 
musters and marchings of this most celebrated Company 
are admirably ridiculed by Fletcher in The Knight of the 
Burning Pestle ; and the manner in which their orders were 
issued, by Steele, in No. 41 of the Taller. I need hardly 
add, that John Gilpin was a Train-band Captain. 

A Train-band Captain eke was be 
Of famous London town.” 

The Colonel of the Company is always a person of rank and 
position, and the force is 400 or 500 men, many of them sons 
of gentlemen, armed with rifles, and good shots. They have 
4 pieces of cannon. 


XXVI.-EM IN ENT PERSONS BORN IN LONDON. 

Bt. Thomas Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury, behind the 
Mercers’ Chapel in the Poultry. 

Sir Thomas More, Lord Chancellor, in Milk-street, Cheapside. 

Lord Bacon, Lord Chancellor, in York House, on the site of 
Buckiugham-street in the Strand. 

Thos. Wentworth, Earl of Strafford, in Chancery-lane. 

The great Earl of Chatham, in the parish of St. James’s, 
Westminster. 

William Camden, author of ‘^Britannia,” in the Little Old 
Bailey, near St. Sepulchre’s Church. 

John Stow, the historian of London. 

Chaucer, the father b'f English Poetry. 

Spenser, in East Smithfield, near the Tower, it is said. 

Ben Jonson, in Hai’tshorne-laue, near Northuniberlaud- 
street, Charing-cross, it is said. 

Milton, in Bread-street, Cheapside, where his father was a 
scrivener at the sign of the Spread Eagle. 

Cowley, in Fleet-street, near Chancery-lane, where his 
father was a grocer. 

Pope, in Lombard-street, where his father was a linen-draper. 

Gray, at 41, Cornhill, where his father w'as a linen-draper. 



XXVI.—EMINENT PERSONS BORN IN LONDON. 251 


Lord Byron, at No. 16 (not 24), Holles-street, Cavendish- 
square, where his mother lodged, 1788. 

Inigo Jones, in or near Cloth Fair, Smithfield, where his 
father was a clothworker. 

Hogarth, in Bartholomew-close, Smithfield. His father was 
corrector of the press to the booksellers in Little Britain. 

Bp. Lancelot Andrewes, 1565, in Tower-street. His father 
was a seaman attached to the Trinity House. 

Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, in the house of his 
father the Admiral, on Great Tower-hill, on the E. side, 
within a court adjoining to London Wall. 

Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, in the Piazza, Covent-garden. 

Horace Walpole, 24, Arlington-street, Piccadilly, residence 
of Sir Kobert Walpole. H. W. lived here 51 years. 

C. J. Fox, in Conduit-street, Bond-street. 

Lord Cornwallis, in Grosvenor-square, 1738. 

Dan. De Foe, son of a butcher in St. Giles’s, Cripplegate, 1661. 

Sir William Temple. 

Michael Faraday, chemist, at Newington Butts, 1791. 


252 XXVll.—BURIAL PLACES OF GREAT PERSONS. 


XXVII.-EMINENT PERSONS BURIED IN LONDON 
AND ITS IMMEDIATE VICINITY. 


KINGS AND QUEENS:— 

Edward the Confessor , 

Edward I. ... 

Edward III. .... 

Henry V., and VII. and Queen 
James lY. of Scotland 
Anne Boleyn .... 
Lady Jane Grey . . . . 

Queen Elizabeth 
Slary, Queen of Scots . 

James I. 


. Westminster Abbey. 

.• . Ditto. 

. Ditto. 

. . Ditto. [Cheapside. 

. St. Michael’s, Wood-street, 
. . St. Peter’s-ad-Vincula, Tower. 
. Ditto. 

. . AVestminster Abbej^. 

. Ditto. 

. . Henry VII.’s Chapel. 


SOLDIERS:— 


Aymer de Valence,Earl of Pembroke, Westminster Abbey. 


Sir Francis Vere 
Lord Herbert of Cherbury . 
General Wolfe 
Sir Thomas Picton 
Duke of Wellington 


. Ditto. 

. St. Giles’s-in-the-Fields. 

. Greenwich old Parish Ch. 
. St. Paul’s, 1859. 

. St. Paul’s. 


SEAMEN :— 

Sir Walter Raleigh . . . . St. Margaret’s, Westminster. 

Nelson.St. Paul’s. 

Collingwood.Ditto. 

HISTORICAL CHARACTERS :— 

Cromwell, Earl of Essex . . . St. Peter’s-ad-Vincula, Tower. 

Protector Somerset.Ditto. 

Villiers, 1st&2d Dukes of Buckingham, AA^'estminster Abbey. 

Duke of Monmouth . . . . St. Peter’s-ad-Vincula, Tower. 


STATESMEN :— 

Sir Thomas More .... Chelsea Old Church. 
Sir AVilliam Temple . . . . Westminster Abbey. 

Savile, Lord Halifax .... Ditto. 

Bolingbroke.Battersea Church. 

Chatham.\ 

.> AVestminster Abbey. 

Canning.} 


DIVINES :— 

Miles Coverdale .... 
Bishop Andrews .... 
Fuller, author of “ Worthies ” . 

Barrow. 

South . 

Archbishop Tillotson 
Bishop Burnet .... 
Nelson, author of “Fasts and Fes¬ 
tivals” . 

Fox, founder of the Quakers 

AVesley. 

Isaac Watts .... 
Rev. John Newton . 

Swedenborg . 


. St. Magfnus, London Bridge. 

. St. Saviour’s, Southwark. 

. Cranford, near Hounslow. 

. Westminster Abbey. 

. Ditto. 

. St. Lawrence, Jewry. 

. St. James’s, Clerkenwell. 

) St. George the Martyr, Queen 
) Square. 

. Bunhill-fields’ Burial-ground. 
. AVesley’s Chapel, City-road. 

. Bunhill-fields. [street 

. St. Mary AA’^oolnoth, Lombard- 
. Swedish Church, Prince’s- 
square, Ratcliff Ilighwaj'. 



XXVII.—BURIAL PLACES OF GREAT PERSONS. 253 


POETS, &c. 

Chaucer . 

Gower . 

Spenser . 

Sir Philip Sydney 

Chapman 

Ben Jonson . 

Beaumont 

Fletcher 

Massinger 

Kit Marlowe 

Milton 

Cowley . 

Butler 
Otway . 

Dryden 

Pope 

Congreve . 

Gay 
Prior 
Addison 
Thomson . 

Dr. Johnson 
Chatterton 
R. B. Sheridan 
Campbell. 

Rogers 

Tom Dibdin . 


MUSICIANS 

Purcell. 

Handel. 

NOVELISTS:— 

Bunyan . 

De Foe. 

Richardson .... 

Sterne. 

Goldsmith 

ACTORS AND ACTRESSES 

Tarlton. 

Burbadge. 

Ned Alleyn .... 

Betterton. 

Colley Cibber 

Garrick. 

Mrs. Oldfield 

Mrs. Bracegirdle . • 

Mrs. Siddons 

PHYSICIANS AND SURGEONS 
Sir Hans Sloane 
Dr. Mead .... 
Cheselden . • . 

John Hunter 
Sir Astley Cooper 


. . Westminster Abbey. 

. . St. Saviour’s, Southwark. 

. . Westminster Abbey. 

. . Site of St. Paul’s. 

. . St. Giles’s-in-the-Fields. 

. . Westminster Abbey. 

. . Ditto. 

. . St. Saviour’s, Southwark. 

. '. Ditto. 

. . Deptford Old Church. 

. . St. Giles’s, Cripplegate. 

. . Westminster Abbey. 

. . St. Paul’s, Covent-garden. 

. . St. Clement’s Danes. 

. . Westminster Abbey. 

. . Twickenham. 

. . Westminster Abbey, 

, . Ditto, 

. . Ditto. 

. . Ditto. 

. , Richmond. 

. . Westminster Abbey. 

, Site of Farringdon Mai’ket. 

. Westminster Abbey. 

. . Ditto. 

. . Hornsey. 

. . St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields Bu¬ 
rial-ground, Camden-town. 


. Westminster Abbey. 
. Ditto, 


. Bunhill-fields. 

. Ditto. 

. St. Bride’s, Fleet-street. 

, Bays water Burial-ground. 

, Ground of Temple Church. 


. St. Leonard’s, Shoreditch. 

. Ditto. 

. Dulwich College. 

, Westminster Abbey. 

. Danish Church, Wellclose- 
square. 

. Westminster Abbey. 

. Ditto. 

. Ditto, 

. Old Paddington Churchyard 


. Chelsea Churchyard (Old) 
. Westminster Abbey, 

. Chapel of Chelsea College. 
. St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields. 
Chapel of Guy’s Hospital. 









254 XXVII.—BURIAL PLACES OF GREAT PERSONS. 


PHILOSOPHERS:— 
Sir Isaac Nevrton 

LAWYERS 
Plowden . 

Sir William Follett 


. Westminster Abbey. 

. Temple Chnroh, 

. Ditto. 


HISTORIANS AND ANTIQUARIES 

Fox, author of “Acts and Monuments” St. Giles’s, Cripplegate. 

Camden.Westminster Abbey. 

Stow .... ... St. Andrew Undershaft, Lead- 

enhall-street. 

Spelman.Westminster Abbey. 

Archbishop Usher.Ditto. 

Oldys.St. Bennet, Panl’s-wharf. 

Ritson . . .... Bunhill-fields. 

Strutt.St.Andrew’s-in-the-Wardrobe. 


PAINTERS:— 

Holbein. 

Van Dyck. 

Sir Peter Lely .... 
The two Vanderveldes 
Sir Joshua Reynolds 

Hogarth. 

Gainsborough .... 

Stothard . 

Sir Thomas Lawrence 
J. M. W. Turner 

SCULPTORS:— 

Grinling Gibbons 

Roubiliac .... 

Flaxman .1 . . 

ARCHITECTS :— 

Inigo Jones .... 

Sir Christopher Wren 

ENGRAVERS :— 

Hollar. 

AVoollett . • . 

Strange. 

William Shai’p . . . . 

ENGINEERS :— 

John Rennie .... 

EMINENT FOREIGNERS:— 

Casaubon . 

St. Evremont .... 
General Paoli . . . . 

Ugo Foscolo .... 


. St. Catherine Cree, Leaden' 
hall-street. 

. Site of St. Paul’s. 

. St. Paul’s, Covent-garden. 

. St. James’s, Piccadilly. 

. St. Paul’s. 

. Chiswick Churchyard. 

. Kew Churchyard. 

. Bunhill-fields. 

. St. Paul’s, 

. St Paul’s. 


. St. Paul’s, Covent-garden. 

. St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields. 

. St. Giles’s Burial-ground, 
St. Pancras. 

. St. Bennet, Paul’s-wharf. 

. St. Paul’s. 


. St. Margaret’s, Westminster. 
. Old St. Pancras Churchyard 
. St. Paul’s, Covent-garden. 

. Chiswick Churchyard. 


. . St. Paul’s. 


. Westminster Abbey. 

. . Ditto. 

. Old St, Pancras Churchyard. 
. . Chiswick Churchyard, 


MISCELLANEOUS :— 

Will Somers, Henry VlII.’s jester . St. Leonard’s. 

Old Parr.Westminster Abbey. 

Hakluyt.Ditto. 

Capt. John Smith, author of “ History 
of Virginia ”.St. Sepulchre’s, Snow-hill. 




XXVII.—BURIAL PLACES OF GREAT PERSONS. 265 


MISCELLANEOUS, continued :— 
Ileminge and Cundall 
Roger Ascham . . . . 

Andrew Maxwell 

Pepys . 

Dr. Busby .... 

La Belle Stuart .... 
Nell Gwyn .... 
Duchess of Cleveland . 

Judge Jefferies 

Colonel Blood .... 

Trusty Dick Peiiderell . 

Dr. Sacheverel .... 
Ludowick Muggleton 

Jack Sheppard . . . . 

Joe Miller .... 

Cocker. 

Hoyle. 

Lady Mary Wortley Montagu . 
Jack Wilkes .... 
Lord George Gordon . 

Joanna Southcott . 

John Home Tooke 
Rev. Sydney Smith 

PUBLIC BENEFACTORS 

William Caxton . . . . 

Sir Thomas Gresham 

CELEBRATED CHARACTERS 
1637—1649 

Charles I. 

Lord Clarendon .... 
Prince Rupert.... 
Attorney-General Noy 
Cleveland .... 
Alexander Brome 
Rushworth 

Cromwell. 

Bradshaw .... 

Ireton. 

Earl of Essex .... 

Fleetwood. 

Monk. 

Pym. 

Sir John Eliot 

Selden . .... 

Blake , , , 

May. 

Lilbum . . . 

Richard Baxter .... 
Edmund Calamy . 


. St. Mary’s, Aldermanbury. 

. St. Sepulchre’s, Snow-hill. 

. St. Giles’s-in-the-Fields. 

. St. Olave’s, Hart-street. 

. Westminster Abbey. 

. Ditto. 

. St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields. 

. Chiswick. 

. St. Mary’s, Aldermanbury. 

. New Chapel-yard, Broadway, 
Westminster. 

. St.Giles’s-in-the-FieldChurch- 
yard. 

. St. Andrew’s, Holbom. 

. Bethlehem Churchyard, Liver- 
pool-street, City. 

. St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields. 

. St. Clement’s Danes Yard, in 
Portugal-street. 

. St. George’s, Southwark. 

. Old Marylebone Churchyard. 

. South Audley-street Chapel. 

. Ditto. 

. St. James’s, Hampstead-road. 
. St. John’s Chapel Burial 
ground, St. John’s Wood. 

. Ealing. 

. Kensal Green. 


. St. Margaret’s, Westminster. 

. . St. Helen’s, Bishopsgate. 

DURING THE CIVIL WAR 

. . St. George’s Chapel, Windsor. 

. Westminster Abbey. 

. . Ditto. 

. Brentford Old Church. 

. . St. Michael’s, College-hill. 

. Lincoln’s-Inn Chapel. 

. . St. George’s, SoutWark. 

Under Tyburn Gallows, 
. . >- Hyde Park end of Edg- 
.3 ware-road. 

. , Westminster Abbey. 

. Bunhill-fields. 

. . Westminster Abbey. 

. Ditto. 

. . St. Peter’s-ad-Vincula, Tower. 

. Temple Church. 

. . \ Pit in St. Margaret’s Church- 
.j yard, Westminster. 

. . Bethlehem Churchyard,Liver- 
pool-street. ' 

. Christ Church,Newgate street. 
. . St. Mary Aldennary. 






256 


XXVIII.—HOUSES OF EMINENT PERSONS. 


XXVIII.-HOUSES IN WHICH EMINENT PERSONS 
HAVE LIVED. 

There is a custom on the Continent well worthy of 
notice,” says the elegant-minded author of the Pleasures of 
Memory. In Boulogne, we read as we ramble through it, 
‘ Ici est mort 1’Auteur de Gil Bias; ’ in Rouen, ‘ Ici est nd 
Pieri’e Corneille;’ in Geneva, ‘Ici est ne Jean Jacques 
Rousseau;’ and in Dijon there is the ‘Maison Bossuet;’ in 
Paris, the ‘Quai Voltaire.’ Very rare are such memorials 
among us; and yet wherever we meet with them, in what¬ 
ever country they were, or of whatever age, we should surely 
say that they were evidences of refinement and sensibility in 
the people. The house of Pindar was spared 

Wlien temple and tower 
Went to the ground; 

and its ruins were held sacred to the last. According to 
Pausanias they were still to be seen in the second century.” 
Concurx’ing in this sentiment to its fullest extent, I have 
compiled the following list of eminent persons who have 
lived in London, and whose houses are known. 

Duke of Marlborough in Marlborough House, Pall-mall. 

Duke of Wellington (d. 1852), reconstructed Apsley House, 
as it now stands, and lived in it 32 years. 

Duke of Schomberg, in Schomberg House, Pall-mall. 

Lord Clive died in No. 45, Berkeley-square. 

Lord Nelson lived at No. 141, New Bond-street, after the 
battle off Cape St. Vincent and the Expedition to Teneriflfe, 
where he lost his arm. 

Sir T. Picton, who fell at Waterloo, at No. 21, Edward-street, 
Portman-square. Hither his body was brought after Waterloo. 

Lord Hill, the hero of Almarez, in the large house, S.W. 
corner of Belgrave-square. 

Lord Lynedoch, the hero of Barossa, died at No. 12, 
Stratton-street, Piccadilly. 

Lord Chancellor Shaftesbury, in Shaftesbury House, east 
side of Aldersgate-street. 

Lord Chancellor Somers, in the large house N.W. corner 
of Lincoln’s-Inn-fields. 

Duke of Newcastle, prime minister in the reign of 
George II., in the same house. 

Lord Mansfield, when Mr. Murray, at No. 5, King’s- 
Bench-walk, Temple. 

Lord Chancellor Cowper, at No. 13, Great George-street, 
Hanover-square. 


XXVIII.—HOUSES OF EMINENT PERSONS. 257 

The polite Earl of Chesterfield died in Chesterfield House, 
May Fair. 

Lord Chancellor Thurlow, at No. 45, Great Ormond-street, 
where the Great Seal was stolen from him. 

Lord Chancellor Eldon, at No. 6, Bedford-square, and 
W. corner of Hamilton-place, Piccadilly, in which he died. 

Sir Samuel Romilly died at No. 21, Russell-square. 

Edmund Burke, at No. 37, Geiurd-street, Soho. 

R. Brinsley Sheridan died -.it No, 7, Saville-row. 

Sir Robert Peel died at his house in Privy-gardens, Whitehall. 

Milton lived in a garden-house in Petty France, now No. 
19, York-street, Westminster, 

Dry den died at No. 43, Gerard-street, Soho. 

Prior lived in Duke-street, Westminster, the house 
facing Charles-street. 

Addison died in Holland House, Kensington. 

Byron, born in No. 16, Holles-street, Cavendish-square, 
spent his short married life at No. 139, Piccadilly. In the 
rooms of the Albany, 2 a, facing Saville-row, he wrote Lara. 

Sir Walter Scott put up at Miss Dumergue’s, corner of White 
Horse-street, Piccadilly, and at Mr. Lockhart’s, 24, Sussex- 
place. Regent’s Park, 

Shelley lodged at No. 41, Hans-place, Sloane-street, 

Keats wrote his magnificent sonnet on Chapman’s Homer, 
&c., in the second floor of No. 71, Cheapside. 

The last London residence of Campbell, author of ‘^The 
Pleasures^f Hope,” was at No. 8, Victoria-square, Pimlico. 

Crabbe lodged at No. 37, Bury-street, St. James’s. 

Tom Moore, in 1806, dedicates his “ Odes and Epistles ” 
to Loi’d Moira, from No. 27, Bury-street, St. James’s. 

Johnson completed his Dictionary in the garret of No. 17, 
Gough-square, Fleet-street, and died at No. 8, Bolt-court, 
Fleet-street. 

Boswell died at No. 47, Great Portland-street, Oxford-st. 

Goldsmith died at No, 2, Brick-court, Temple, up two pair 
of stairs, and on the right as you ascend the staircase. 

Gibbon wrote the Defence of his Decline and Fall, at No. 7 
Bentinck-street, Manchester-square. 

Horace Walpole lived at No. 5, Arlington-street, Piccadilly, 
and died at No. 11, Berkeley-square, 1797. 

Garrick died in the centre house of the Adelphi-terrace. 

Mrs. Siddons lived at No. 49, Great Marlborough-street, 
and died in Siddons House at the top of Upper Baker-street 
Regent’s Park (right hand side). 

Edmund Kean lived at No. 12, Clarges-street, when at the 
height of his fame. 


s 


258 XXVIII.—HOUSES OF EMINENT PERSONS. 


Archbishop Laud, Archbishop Bancroft, Archbishop Til- 
lotson, at Lambeth Palace. 

Archbishop Leighton died in the Bell Inn, Wanvick-lane, 
Newgate-street. 

Bishop Burnet died in St. John’s-square, Clerkenwell. 

Richardson, author of Clarissa Harlowe, lived in Salisbuiy- 
square. Fleet-street. 

Sterne, author of Tristram Shandy, died at No. 41, Old 
Bond-street. 

Charles Lamb, at No. 4, Inner-Temple-lane. 

Sir Isaac Newton lived in St. Martin’s-street, S. side of 
Leicester-square. His Observatory is stiU to be seen on the 
top of the house. 

Sir Joseph Banks lived and held his parties at No. 32, 
Soho-square, afterwards the Linnsean Society. 

Linacre lived on the site of No. 5, Knightrider-street, 
Doctors’ Commons—the house was bequeathed by him to 
the College of Physicians, and is still possessed by them. 

Dr. Arbuthnot, in Dover-street, Piccadilly, 2nd door, W. side. 

Dr. Mead, at No. 4h, Great Ormond-street. 

Dr. Jenner, at No. 14, Hertfoi’d-street, May Fair. 

Dr. Baillie died at No. 25, Cavendish-square. 

Mr. Abernethy died at No. 14, Bedford-row. 

Sir Astley Cooper died at No. 2, New-street, Spring-gardens. 

Grinling Gibbons, W. side of Bow-street, Covent-garden, 
N. corner of King’s-court. 

Hogarth, in Leicester-square, afterwards of Sablonniere 
Hotel. 

Sir Joshua Reynolds, centre of W. side of Leicester-square, 
now Puttick and Simpson’s Auction Rooms. 

Gainsborough, in western half of SchombergHouse,PaU-mall. 

Flaxman died at No. 7, Buckingham-street, Fitzroy-square. 
His studio still remains. 

Chantrey died in Eccleston-street, Pimlico, comer of Lower 
Belgrave-place. 

Wilkie painted his Rent Day at No. 84, Upper Portland-st., 
and his Chelsea Pensioners at No. 24, Lower Philhmore-place, 
Kensington. 

Stothard died at No. 28, Newman-street, Oxford-street. 

Sir Thomas Lawrence died at No. 65, Russell-square. 

J. M. W. Turner lived at47„Queen Anne-street, Cavendish-sq. 

Penn, founder of Pennsylvania, lived in Norfolk-street, 
Strand, last house on left hand side. 

“ Honest Shippen,” E. side of Norfolk-street, Strand. 

Jonathan Wild, No. 68, Old Bailey. 

Jeremy Bentham, No. 2, Queen-square place, Westminster. 


XXVIII.—HOUSES OF EMINENT PERSONS, 


259 


Rev. Sydney Smith died at No. 56, Green-st., Grosveiior-sq. 

Daniel O’Connell lodged at No. 29, Bmy-street, during the 
struggle (1829) for Catholic Emancipation. 

Handel lived in Burlington House, Piccadilly, with the 
Earl of Burlington, the architect, and died in Brook-street, 
Hanover-square. 

Carl Maria Von Weber died at No. 91, Upper Portland-st. 

Watteau hved with Dr. Mead at No. 49, Great Ormond-st. 

Orleans Egalite, at No. 31, South-street, Grosvenor-square. 

Madame de Stael, at No. 30, Argyll-street, Regent-street. 

Blucher, when in England in 1814, in St, James’s Palace, in 
the dark brick house, on your right as you pass the opening 
from St. James’s (Ambassador’s Court) to Stafford House. 

Charles X. of France at No. 72, South-Audiey-street. 

Talleyrand, at the house of the French Embassy, N. side 
of Manchester-square. 

Joseph Buonaparte and Lucien Buonaparte, at No. 23, 
Park-crescent, Portland-place. 

Louis Philippe’s last London lodging was at Cox’s Hotel, 
in Jermyn-street. 

M, Guizot, at No. 21, Pelham-crescent, Brompton, 

Don Carlos, in 1834, at No. 5, Welbeck-street. Here he 
had his hair dyed, and here he shaved his moustache prepa¬ 
ratory to his journey to Spain through France in disguise. 

Louis Napoleon Buonaparte, Emperor ofthe French, lodged 
at No. 3, King-street, St. James’s-square; this was his last 
London lodging. 

Canaletti, on site of corner house of Richmond-terrace, in 
a garret over a small shop. 

Samuel Rogers (from 1806 to 1855, when he died), at No. 
22, St. James’s-place, overlooking the Green-park. 

Charles Dickens lived many years at Tavistock House, 
Tavistock-square, previously the residence of James Periy, 
Editor of the Morning Chronicle. 

Sam. T. Coleridge lived and died in Pemberton Row, High- 
gate, July 25, 1834, the house of his friend Mr. Gillman. 

Michael Thomas Farady, Chemist and Philosopher, was 
born in Newington, by Southwark. 


260 XXIX.—STREETS AND EMINENT PERSONS. 


XXIX. 

STREETS (HOUSES UNKNOWN OR NOT STANDING) 
IN WHICH EMINENT PERSONS HAVE LIVED. 

Sir Thomas More lived at Chelsea, in a house immediately 
facing the present Battersea Bridge. He is buried in Chelsea 
old Church. 

Charles V. of Spain was lodged in the Blackfriars. 

Shakspeare is said to have lived on the Bankside, in South¬ 
wark, near the Globe Theatre. He was possessed of a house 
in Ireland-yard, Blackfriara. 

Spenser died for lack of bread in King-street, Westminster, 
and was buried in Westminster Abbey. 

Izaak Walton lived in Chancery-lane, in the 7th house on 
the left hand as you walk from Fleet-street to Holbom. 

Harvey, the discoverer of the circulation of the blood, lived 
with his brother, in Cockaine House, in the City. 

Oliver Cromwell lived in Long-acre ; in King-street, West¬ 
minster ; in the Cockpit, now the site of the Treasury; and 
at Whitehall, of which the Banqueting-house only remains. 

Van Dyck died in the Blackfriars, and w^as bmaed in St. 
Paul’s Cathedral. 

Vandervelde the younger lived in Piccadilly, over against 
the church of St. James, in which he is buried. 

Peter the Great lived in a house (Pepys’s) on the site of 
the last house on the W. side of Buckingham-street, Strand, 
and frequented the Czar of Muscovy Public House, 48, Great 
Tower-street. 

Voltaire, when in London, in 1726, lodged at the White 
Peruke in Maiden-lane. 

Andrew Marvell was living in Maiden-lane when he refused 
a bribe from the Lord Treasurer Danby. 

Nell Gwyn died in a house on the site of No. 79, Pall-mall. 

Locke dates the dedication of his “Essay on Human 
Understanding ” from Dorset-eourt, Fleet-street. 

Addison lived, when a bachelor, in St. James’s-place, 
St. James’s-street, where it is said Mr. Kogers, the poet, 
followed. 

Fielding lived in Bow-street, Covent-garden, in a house on 
the site of the present Police-office. 

Butler, author of Hudibras, died in Eose-street, Covent- 
garden, and was buried in the churchyard of St. Paul’s, 
Covent-garden. 

Benjamin Franklin worked as a journeyman printer in 


XXX.—SITES AND REMARKABLE EVE^'TS. 261 


Bartholomew-close, West Smithfield. He lived also at No. 7, 
Craven-street, Strand. 

John Wilkes (Wilkes and Liberty) lived in Prince’s-court, 
Great George-street, Westminster, and was buried in South- 
Audley-street Chapel. 

Lady Mary Wortley Montagu died in George-street, Han- 
over-square, and was buried in South-Audley-street Chapel. 

General Paoli died (1807) ‘‘at his house near the Edgeware- 
road,” and was buried in old St. Pancras Churchyard. 


XXX.-PLACES AND SITES CONNECTED WITH 
REMARKABLE EVENTS, 

OR OTHERWISE DISTINGUISHED. 

London Wall: remains to be seen off Ludgate-hill, Tower- 
hill, and in the churchyard of St. Giles’s, Cripplegate, and 
St. Alphage. 

London Stone: which Jack Cade struck with his staff, in 
outer wall of the church of St. Swithin. Cannon-street, Wat- 
ling-street. {See Index.) 

Smithfield: scene of Wat Tyler’s death; of Wallace’s 
execution at the Elms; of Bartholomew Fair; and of the 
burnings of Protestants in the reigns of Henry VIII. and 
Mai*y. {See Index.) 

Charing-crosa : Statue of Charles I. by Le Soeui’; site of tho 
last cross erected by Edward I. to Queen Eleanor, as the last 
place at which the coffin rested on its way to Westminster 
Abbey. Site also of the execution of the Regicides. 

St. John’s Gate, Clerkenwell, originally belonged to the 
Knights of St. John. Here Dr. Johnson met Cave, and here 
was printed The Gentleman’s Magazine. 

Tabard Inn, Southwark: the starting-place of Chaucer’s 
Canterbury Pilgrims. Pulled down. 

North-East corner of St. Paul’s Churchyard : site of Paul’s 
Cross, where the Paul’s Cross Sermons were preached. 

The Tower Green, near the chapel of St. Peter-ad-Vincula : 
place of execution of Anne Boleyn, Lady Jane Grey, &c., 
and Lord Lovat (1747). {See Tower.) 

Westminster Abbey : place of coronation of bur kings and 
queens, and sepulchre of many of them. 

Westminster Hall: place of trial of Earl of Strafford, of 
Charles I., and of Warren Hastings. 



262 XXX. — SITES AND REMARKABLE EVENTS. 


New Houses of Parliament: site of Star-Chamber, Painted 
Chamber, and Guy Faux’ Cellar. 

Aldgate (pulled down): was granted as a dwelling to Geof¬ 
frey Chaucer, with cellar beneath, 1374.— Rihy. 

Almonry, Westminster, in which Caxton erected his 
printing-press. 

Sir Thomas More’s chapel on south side of chancel of 
Chelsea old church. 

! Bridewell, Bridge-street, Blackfriars: scene of Queen 
Katherine’s Trial. 

Ludgate-hill, over against Saracen’s Head, where Wyat, in 
the reign of Queen Maiy, was stayed in his rebellion. 

Palace Yard, Westminster, in which Sir Walter Kaleigh 
was executed. 

Street facing the Banqueting-house at Whitehall, in which 
Charles I. was executed. 

Centre of Lincoln’s-Inn-fields, in which William Lord 
Russell was executed. 

Pall-mall end of Haymarket: scene of the murder of Mr. 
Thynne by assassins hired by Count Koningsmarck. 

Corner of Suffolk-street, Pall-mall: scene of the barbarous 
revenge on Sir John Coventiy, which led to the famous 
Coventry Act against cutting and maiming. 

Maiden-lane, Covent-garden, where, in a garret, and with 
only cold mutton before him for his dinner, Andrew Marvell 
refused the bribe of Lord Treasurer Danby. 

Gray’s-Inn-lane, where Hampden and Pym lived, and where 
they held their consultations for resisting the impost of 
shipmoney. 

Middle Temple Gate, Fleet-street, occupying site of former 
gate built by Sir Amias Paulet, as a fine laid upon him by 
Cardinal Wolsey. 

Coleman-street, in the city, whither the five members 
accused by Charles I. of high treason fled for concealment. 

Ground between Dover-street and Bond-street, facing St. 
James’s-street: site of Clarendon House. 

In Hyde Park (probably near the Ring), Oliver Crom¬ 
well when driving the six horses presented to him by the 
Earl of Oldenburgh, was thrown from his seat, when a pistol 
went off in his pocket. 

Black Jack Public-house, Portsmouth-street, Clare Market: 
favourite resort of Joe Miller, and celebrated for the jump 
which Jack Sheppard made from one of its first-floor windows 
to escape the emissaries of Jonathan Wild. 

Roman Catholic Chapel, Duke-street, Lincoln’s-Inn-flelds: 
the first building destroyed in the riots of 1780. 


XXX. — SITES AND REMARKABLE EVENTS. 263 

N. E. comer of Bloomsbmy-square: site of Lord Mansfield’s 
house, destroyed in the riots of 1780. 

Barclay’s Brewhouse, Bankside, Southwark : site of Globe 
Theatre, in which Shakspeare played. 

Statue of William IV., facing London Bridge: site of Boar’s 
Head Tavern, immortalised by Shakspeare. 

Bread-street, Cheapside, in which the Mermaid Tavern of 
Sir Walter Raleigh and Shakspeare stood. 

Child’s Banking-house, No. 1, Fleet-street: site of Devil 
Tavern, favourite resort of Ben Jonson and of Dr. Johnson. 

Ham and Beef-shop, corner of Bow-street: site of Will’s 
Coffee-house. 

Centre house on S. side of Great Russell-street, Coveut- 
garden : site of Button’s Coffee-house. 

Essex Head, in Essex-street, Strand, kept in Johnson’s 
last years by a servant of Tlirale’s, and where the Doctor 
established his last club. 

Essex-street, Strand, in the house of Lady Primrose (now 
unknown), whei’e the young Pretender was concealed when 
in London (Sept., 1750) for the first and last time. 

Pudding-lane, Monument-yard, in which the Fire of 
London began. 

Pie-corner, in Giltspur-street, in which it ended. 

Cock-lane, Giltspur-street, famous for its ghost. 

Mitre Tavern, Fleet-street, where Johnson and Boswell 
determined on making a tour to the Hebrides. 

Grub-street, Cripplegate, now Milton-street, long cele¬ 
brated as the resort of poor and distressed authors. 

Alsatia, or Whitefriars, immortalised by Sir Walter Scott 
in ‘‘ The Fortunes of Nigel.” 

Picthatch, nearly opposite the Charter-House-end of Old- 
street-road, called by Falstaff, Pistol’s manor of Picthatch.” 

St. James’s-square, round which Johnson and Savage 
walked a whole night for want of a bed. 

House at the top of Crane-court, Fleet-street, now Royal 
Scottish Hospital, with its handsome room built by Wren, in 
which Sir Isaac Newton sat as President of the Royal Society. 

W. end of Serpentine: scene of the fatal duel between 
Duke of Hamilton and Lord Mohun. 

W. side of Gateway of Inner Temple Lane, Fleet-street, 
where, in the shop of Robinson the bookseller, Pope and 
Warburton met for the first time. 

No. 8, Great Russell-street, Covent-garden: the shop of Tom 
Davies, where Johnson and Boswell met for the first time. 

Jew’s-row, Chelsea: scene of Wilkie’s Chelsea Pensioners 
reading the Gazette of the Battle of Waterloo. 


264 XXX. — SITES AND REMARKABLE EVENTS. 


Fox-coui’t, Gray’s-Inn-road : birth-place of Richard Savage. 

Brook-street, Holborn, where Chattertoii poisoned himself. 

Foot of Primrose-hill, where the body of Sir Edmundsbuiy 
Godfrey was found. 

Goods Station of London, Chatham, and Dover Railway on 
E. side of Farringdon-street: site of the Fleet Prison. 

Barracks of the Foot Guards, and road leading to Pimlico 
Suspension Bridge, W. of Chelsea Hospital: site of Ranelagh 
Gardens. 

House in Arlington-street, Piccadilly, in which Lord Nelson 
and his wife quarrelled, and saw one another for the last 
time. 

Lansdowne House, Berkeley Square, in which Priestley 
was living when he discovered oxygen. 

At 37, Tavistock-place, Tavistock-square, an isolated house 
in a garden, Francis Baily weighed the earth. 

Homei’-street, facing Cato-street: scene of the Cato Con¬ 
spiracy of Thistlewood and his associates. 

No. 39, Grosvenor-square (Lord Harrowby’s), where his 
Majesty’s ministers were to have been murdered as they sat 
at dinner, by Thistlewood and his gang (see Lord de Ros’s 
Tower). 

No. 7, Connaught-place, Edgware-road, whither the Princess 
Charlotte hurried in a hackney coach when she quarrelled 
with her father and left Warwick House. 

No. 49, Connaught-square, Edgew'are-road: supposed site of 
Tybum Gallows. 

No. 77, South Audley-street (then Alderman Wood’s), where 
Queen Caroline lodged in 1820, and in the balcony of which 
she would appear and bow to the mob assembled in the 
street. 

No. 50, Albemarle-street (Mr. Murray’s), where Sir Walter 
Scott and Lord Byron met for the first time. 

No. 80, Piccadilly, from whence Sir Francis Burdett was 
taken to the Tower. 

Hall of Chelsea Hospital: scene of Whitelocke’s trial, and 
of the Court of Inquiry into the Convention of Cintra. 

At the bar of Somerset Coffee-house, Strand, E. corner of 
entrance to King’s College, Junius directed many of his 
letters to be left for Woodfall. 

Near the upper end of Constitution-hill, Sir Robert Peel 
was thrown from his horse and killed. 

High-street, Borough : the house No. 119 occupies the 
site of the Marshalsea, where many of the Martyrs who 
suffered for their religion in the bloody reign of Mary were 
imprisoned. 


XXXI.—OUT-DOOR MONUMENTS. 


265 


XXXI.-OUT-DOOR MONUMENTS AND PUBLIC 
STATUES. 

The monument, already described. 

YORK COLUMN, Carlton-House Gardens. Of Scotch 
granite, 124 feet high, desi^ied. by B. Wyatt, erected (1830-33) 
by public subscription, with a bronze statue 14 ft. high by 
Sir Richard Westmacott, of the Duke of York, second son of 
George III., upon the top. There is a staircase, and gallery 
affor^ng a fine view of the W. end of London and the Surrey 
Hills. It is open from 12 to 4, from May to Sept. 24th. 

NELSON COLUMN, Trafalgar Square. Of Portland 
stone, 145 feet high, designed by Railton, and erected 1840- 
43. It is surmounted by a statue of Nelson, 17 feet high, 
by E. H. Baily, R.A., formed of two stones from the Gran- 
ton quarry; it has been styled “ the beau-ideal of a Green¬ 
wich Pensioner.” The capital of the column is of bronze 
furnished from cannon taken from the French. The bronze 
bas-relief of the Death of Nelson is by Carew; of the Nile, 
by Woodington ; of Copenhagen, by Ternouth; and of St. 
Vincent, by Watson. Four grand colossal lions in bronze, 
modelled by Sir Edwin Landseer, R.A., very original 
studies from nature, crouch upon the four salient pedestals 
vat the base. The total cost of the column has been 
al^Dut 46,000^. The largest individual subscription was 
comributed by Nicolas, Emp. of Russia (500^.). 

Bronze Equestrian Statue of CHARLES I., at Charing 
Cross, by Hubert Le Soeur, a Frenchman and pupil of John 
of Bologna, cast in 1633, near the church in Covent Garden, 
and not being erected before the commencement of the Civil 
War, sold by the Parliament to John Rivet, a brazier living 
at the Dial, near Holborn Conduit, with strict orders to break 
it to pieces. But the man produced some fragments of old 
brass, and concealed the statue under ground till the Resto¬ 
ration. The statue was set up in its present situation at the 
expense of the Crown, in 1676. The pedestal, generally 
attributed to Grinling Gibbons, was the work of Joshua 
Marshall, Master Mason to the Crown. 

CHARLES II., at Chelsea Hospital, by Grinling Gibbons. 

JAMES II., bronze, by Grinling Gibbons, behind White¬ 
hall. 


266 


XXXI.—OUT-DOOR MONUMENTS. 


Bronze Equestrian Statue of WILLIAM III., in St. James’s- 
square, by Bacon, junior. 

QUEEN ANNE, before the W. door of St. Paul’s, by F. 
Bird. 

Bronze Equestrian Statue of GEORGE III., Cockspur- 
street, Charing Cross, by M. C. Wyatt. 

Bronze Equestrian Statue of GEORGE IV., in Ti’afalgar 
square, by Sir F. Chantrey. 

Marble Statue of QUEEN VICTORIA, in the Royal Ex¬ 
change, by Lough. 

Equestrian Statue of DUKE OF CUMBERLAND, the 
victor at Culloden, in Cavendish-square. 

DUKE OF BEDFORD, Russell-sq., by SirR. Westmacott. 

PITT, in Hanover-square, by Sir Francis Chantrey. 

FOX, in Bloomsbury-square, by Sir R. Westmacott. 

LORD GEORGE BENTINCK, in Cavendish-square. 

MEMORIAL to the Officers and Men of the three Regts. of 
Foot Guards, who fell in the Crimea; at the bottom of 
Regent-street in Waterloo-place; design by Bell: three 
statues of Guardsmen on a pedestal of granite, surmounted 
by a Victory of marble. The cannon are Russian, taken at 
Sebastopol. 

MEMORIAL to the Officers educated at Westminster 
School, who fell in the Crimea ; a granite column, sur¬ 
mounted by a statue of St. George and the Dragon, designed 
by G. G. Scott, architect, in the Broad Sanctuary, West¬ 
minster, W. end of W. Abbey. 

Bronze Statue of CANNING, in Palace-yard, by Sir 
R. Westmacott. 

Equestrian Statue of RICHARD CCEUR DE LION, by 
Marochetti, Palace-yard, close to H. of Lords. 

Bronze Statue of ACHILLES, in Hyde Park, erected 1822, 
and ‘‘Inscribed by the Women of England to Ai*thur Duke 
of Wellington and his brave Companions in arms;” by Sir 
Richard Westmacott. See Hyde Park. 

Bronze Equestrian Statue of DUKE OF WELLINGTON 
in front of the Royal Exchange, by Sir Francis Chantrey. 

Ditto on Triumphal Arch, at Hyde-Park-corner, by M. C. 
Wyatt. 

SIR CHARLES NAPIER, by G. G. Adams, GEN. SIR 
HENRY HAVELOCK, byBehiies, 1861, in Trafalgar-square. 


XXXTI.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


267 


Dr. JENNER, sitting figure, by Marshall, in Kensington 
Gardens. 

STR HUGH MYDDELTOH, founder of the New River 
Company, Islington Green, N. 

NATIONAL MONUMENT to the Prince Consort in 
Hyde Park, with colossal statue, &c., &c. See Index. 


XXXII.-PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES, SQUARES, 
LANES, &c. 

The landmarks, or central situations of London, are the Bank 
of England, the Royal Exchange, and the Mansion House, all 
three lying together in the very heart of the city;—St. Paul’s 
Cathedral and the General Post Office, both ui the City, and 
within a stone’s throw of one another;—Temple Bar and 
Somerset House, the very central points of modern London;— 
Charing Cross ; Regent Circus, in Piccadilly; the Piccadilly 
end of Albemarle-street, and Apsley House at Hyde-Park- 
corner, the leading points of the southern side of modern 
London;—Tottenham Court Road, the Regent Circus in 
Oxford-street, and the coiner of Edgware Road, the leading 
points of the northern line of London. (See Clue Map.) 

The principal thoroughfares, or main arteries, are Regent- 
st., Piccadilly, Park-lane, Oxford-st., Holborn, the Strand, Fleet- 
st., Cheapside, Cannon-st., K.William-st., Cornhill, the Euston- 
road, the City-road, Drury-lane, Chancery-lane, Gray’s-Inn- 
road. The Thames Embankments from Blackfriars to Vaux- 
hall and Chelsea. These are all traversed by a continuous 
stream of omnibuses, and are best seen from the top of an 
omnibus. 'WTiat Johnson called “ the full tide of human ex¬ 
istence,” is to be seen at the Bank and Royal Exchange; at 
Charing Cross; and the Regent Circus in Oxford-street. 


Euston and Marylelione Roads conjointly are in length 

Oxford-street. 

Regent-street. 

Piccadilly. 

City Road. 

Strand. 


. 5115 yards. 
. 2304 „ 

. 1730 „ 

. 1694 „ 

. 1690 „ 

. 1369 , 


The streets of London are about 2800 in number; the 
longest street of consequence without a turning;, is Sackville- 
street, Piccadilly. Cannon Street West (running from St. 
Paul’s to London Bridge) was formed at a cost of 200,000/. 
and opened 22nd May, 1854. 








268 


XXXIT.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


PALL MALL. A spacious street extending from the foot 
of St. James’s Street to the foot of the Haymarket, and so 
called from a game of that name introduced into England in 
the reign of Charles I., perhaps earlier. James I., in his 
“Basilicon Doron,” recommends it as a game that Pi’ince 
Hem'y should use. The name (from Palla a ball, and Maglia 
a mallet) is given to avenues and walks in other countries, as 
at Utrecht in Holland. The Malls at Blois, Tours, and Lyons 
are mentioned by Evelyn in his “ Memoirs,” under the year 
1644. Pepys mentions “ Pell Mell” for the first time under 
the 26th of July, 1660, where he says, “ We went to Wood’s 
at the Pell Mell (our old house for clubbing), and there we 
spent till ten at night.” This is not only one of the earliest 
references to Pall Mall, as an inhabited locality, but one of 
the earliest uses of the word “ clubbing ” in its modern sig¬ 
nification of a Club; and additionally interesting, seeing that 
the street still maintains Avhat Johnson would have called its 
clubbable ” character. 

Eminent Inhabitants. —Dr. Sydenham, the physician, was 
living in Pall Mall from 1664 to 1689, when he died. He 
is buried in St. James’s Church. Mr. Fox told Mr. Rogers 
that Sydenham was sitting at his window looking on the 
Mall, with his pipe in his mouth and a silver tankard before 
him, when a fellow made a snatch at the tankard and 
I’an off with it. “Nor was he ovei^taken,” said Fox, “before 
he got among the bushes in Bond-street, and thei’e they lost 
him.”—Nell Gwyn, from 1670 to her death in 1687, in a 
house on the “ south side,” ^vith a garden towards the Park— 
now No. 79, Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign 
Parts. The house, however, has been rebuilt since Nell in¬ 
habited it.—The great Duke of Marlborough, in Marlborough 
House.—George Psalmanazar had lodgings here on his first 
arrival, and here he was visited as an inhabitant of Formosa. 
—William, Duke of Cumberland, the hero of Culloden, in 
Schomberg House, in 1760.—Robert Dodsley, the bookseller, 
oilginally a footman. He opened a shop here in 1735, with the 
sign of “ Tally’s Head.”—Gainsborough, the painter, in the 
westeni wing of Schomberg House, from 1777 to 1783.—At 
the Star and Gai’ter Tavern, William, fifth Lord Byron (d. 1798), 
killed (1765) his neighbour and friend,,Mr. Chaworth, in what 
was rather a broil than a duel. The quarrel was a very foolish 
one—a dispute between the combatants, whether Lord Byi’on, 
who took no care of his game, or Mr. Chaworth, who did, 
had most game on his manor. Lord Byron was tried and 
acquitted. 


XXXIT.— PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


269 


PALL-MALL. 


— United Service 
Club. 


Regent-street. Site of Ca rlton House. 


York 

Column. 


*** Pall-Mall was lighted with 
gas 28th Jan., 1807, and was the 
lirst street in London so lighted 
The introducer of gas into Pall- 
Mall was Frederick Albert Winsor, 
a German (d. 1830). 


Athenseum 

Club. 


— Travellers’ Club, by Barry.- 
The garden-front fine. 


— Reform Club. 


St. James’s Square. 


Junior 
Carlton Club, 


Army and Navy Club. — 


Gymnastic Club: on site of — 
British Institution. 

New Society of Painters in — 
Water Colours. 


— Carlton Club. 


— Buckingham House. 

— Office of Secretary of State for 

War. 


— Schomberg House. In the W. 

wing lived Gainsborough, the 
painter. 

— 79, Soc. for Prop, of the Gospel. 

Site of Nell Gwyn’s house. 

— Oxford and Cambridge Club. 


— Guards’ Club. 


— Marlborough House. Built by 
the great Duke of Marl¬ 
borough. Residence of H.K.H. 
the Prince of Wales. 


St. James’s-sti’eet. 


— St. James’s Palace. 















270 


XXXIl.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


PICCADILLY, a street consisting of shops and fashionable 
dwelling-houses running E. and W. from the top of the 
Haymarket to Hyde-park Corner, The origin of the name 
is somewhat unceii;ain, but the most likely solution is, that 
it was so called after pickadilles, a kind of stiff collar, much 
worn in England from 1605 to 1620, which were made by one 
Higgins, a tailor, who built it temp. James I., and who got 
most of his estate by them. 

The first Piccadilly, taking the word in its modern accep¬ 
tation of a street, was a very short line of road, running no 
further W. than the foot of Sackville-street, and the name 
Piccadilly-street occurs for the firet time in the rate-books of 
St. Martin’s, under the year 1673. Sir Thomas Clarges’s house, 
on the site of the present Albany, is described in 1675 as 
near Burlington House, above Piccadilly.” From Sackville- 
street to Albemarle-street was originally called Portugal- 
street, after Catherine of Braganza, Queen of Charles II., and 
all beyond was the great Bath-road, or, as Agas calls it (1560), 
“ the way to Eeding.” The Piccadilly of 1708 is described 
as “ a very considerable and publick street, between Coventry- 
street and Portugal-street; ” and the Piccadilly of 1720 as 
“ a large street and great thoroughfare, between Coventry- 
street and Albemarle-street.” Portugal-street gave way to 
Piccadilly in the reign of George I. That part of the present 
street, between Devonshire House and Hyde-park Corner, 
was taken up, as Ealph tells us, in 1734, by the shops and 
stone-yards of statuaries, just as the Euston-road is now. We 
may read the history of the street in the names of several of 
the surrounding thoroughfares and buildings. Albemarle- 
street was so called after Christopher Monk, second Duke of 
Albemarle, to whom Clarendon House was sold in 1675, by 
Laurence Hyde, Earl of Eochester, son of the great Lord 
Clarendon. Bond-street was so called after Sir Thomas 
Bond, of Peckham, to whom Clarendon House was sold by 
the Duke of Albemarle when in difficulties, a little before 
his death. Jermyn-street was so called after Henry Jermyn, 
Earl of St. Alban, who died 1683-4; Burlington House after 
Boyle, Earl of Burlington; Dover-street, after Henry Jermyn, 
Lord Dover (d. 1708), the little Jei-myn of De Grammont’s 
Memoirs; Berkeley-street and Stratton-street, after John, 
Lord Berkeley of Stratton, Lord Deputy of Ireland in the 
reign of Charles 11.; Clarges-street, after Sir Walter Clarges, 
the nephew of Ann Clarges, wife of General Monk; and 
Arlington-street and Bennet-street after Henry Bennet, Earl 
of Arlington, one of the Cabal. Air-street was built in 1659, 
Stratton-street in 1693, and Bolton-street was, in 1708, the 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


271 


most westerly street in London. Devonshire House occupies 
the site of Berkeley House, in which the first Duke of 
Devonshire died (1707). Hamilton-place derives its name 
from James Hamilton, ranger of Hyde-park in the reign of 
Charles IL, and brother of La Belle Hamilton, Halfmoon- 
street was so called from the Halfmoon Tavern. Coventry 
House, No. 106, was built on the site of an old inn, called the 
Greyhound. Apsley House was called after Apsley, Earl of 
Bathurst, who built it late in the last century ; and the 
Albany, from the Duke of York and Albany, brother of 
George IV. St. James’s Church (by Wren) was consecrated 
on Sunday, the 13th of July, 1684. The sexton’s book of 
St. Martin’s informs us that the White Bear Inn was in 
existence in 1685; and Strype, in his new edition of Stow, 
that there was a White Horse Cellar in Piccadilly in 1720. 
The two Corinthian pilastei’s, one on each side of the Three 
Kings Inn gateway in Piccadilly, belonged to Clarendon 
House, and are, it is thought, the only remains of that edifice. 

Sir William Petty, our first writer of authority on political 
arithmetic, died in a house over against St. James’s Church 
(1687). Next but one to Sir William Petty, Verrio, the 
painter, was living in 1675. In the dark-red-bidck rectory 
house, at the N. side of the church, pulled down 1848, and 
immediately rebuilt (now No. 197), lived and died Dr. Samuel 
Clarke, rector of St. James’s, from 1709 till his death in 1729. 
Here he edited Caesar and Homer ; here he wrote his Scrip¬ 
ture Doctrine of the Trinity, and his Treatise on the Being 
and Attiibutes of God. In Coventry House, facing the 
Green Park, corner of Engine-street (now the Ambassadors’ 
Club), died, in 1809, William, sixth Earl of Coventry, married, 
in 1752, to the eldest of the three beautiful Miss Gunnings. 
In what was then No. 23, now the first house E. of Hertford 
House, died (1803) Sir William Hamilton, collector of the 
Hamiltonian gems, but more generally known as the husband 
of Nelson’s Lady Hamilton. From No. 80 Sir Francis 
Burdett was taken to the Tower, April 6th, 1810 ; the officer, 
armed with an arrest-warrant, scahng the house with a ladder, 
and entering the window of the drawing-room, where Sir 
Francis was found instructing his son in Magna Charta, the 
street being occupied by the Horse Guards. No. 105, now the 
Marquis of Hertford’s, was the old Pulteney Hotel; here the 
Emperor of Kussia put up during the memorable visit of the 
allied sovereigns in 1814 : and here the Duchess of Olden- 
burgh (the Emperor Alexander’s sister) introduced Prince 
Leopold to the Princess Charlotte. Lord Eldon’s house, 
at the corner of Hamilton-place, was built by Lord Chancel- 


272 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


lor Eldon, who died in it. Nos. 138 and 139 were all one 
house in the old Duke of Queensberry’s time. Here, in the 
balcony, on fine days in summer, he used to sit, a thin, withered 
old figure, with one eye, looking on all the females that passed 
him, and not displeased if they returned him double winks. 
He had been Prince of the Jockeys of his time, and was a 
voluptuary and millionnaire. “ Old Q.” was his popular 
appellation. Duke of Cambridge’s, at the corner of Park- 
lane, once Lord Elgin’s; here the Elgin marbles were 
placed on their first arrival in this country. No, 94 was 
formerly Egremont House, then Cholmondeley House, next 
Cambridge House, property of Sir T. Sutton, the ground 
landlord of half of Piccadilly, occupied by Lord Palmer¬ 
ston, 1863—65. The Duke of Cambridge, youngest son of 
George III., died in this house. The bay-fronted house 
at the W. corner of Whitehorse-street was the residence 
of M. Charles Dumergue, the friend of Sir Walter Scott, 
and was Scott’s head-quarters when in town. The London 
season of Lord Byron’s married life was passed in that half 
of the Duke of Queensberry’s house, now No. 139. {See 
Moore’s Life of Byron.) On the pavement opposite Lord 
Willoughby d’Eresby’s, next but one W. to Hamilton-place, 
stood the Hercules Pillars public-house, where Squire Western 
put his horses up when in pursuit of Tom Jones, and where 
that bluff brave soldier, the Marquis of Granby (d. 1770), 
spent many a happy hour. On the south side, facing Old 
Bond-street, was the shop of Wright, the bookseller, where 
Gifford assaulted by Peter Pindar got the better of him 
in the struggle. The house two doors E. of the Duke of 
Wellington’s was long the London residence of Beck ford 
author of Vathek. 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


273 


PICCADILLY. 


St. George’s 
Hospital. 
Grosvenor-place. 

Entrance Archway, surmounted 
by Equestrian Statue of 
Duke of Wellington. 


W. 



In 1866 a house in the ter¬ 
race was sold for 25,000/. 


The Green Park. 


Arlington-street. — 
No. 5, H. Walpole’s house. 

St. James’s-street. — 
Egyptian Hall. 
Ludlam, hosier. 

Toovey, Bookseller. — 
Duke-street. — 

Fortnum & Mason’s. — 
Hatchard, Bookseller. - 
St. James’s Church, -t- 


Hyde Park Corner. 

< — 

2 I Apsley House. Duke of 
5 ‘ Wellington. 

Sj ^— Terrace. Baron Lionel Roths- 
O i child. Lord Chancellor Eldon 
d. (1838) in corner house. Lord 
Byron lived at No. 139 called 
in his time 13, Piccadilly-ter- 
race. 

— Hamilton Place opened for 
public traffic 1871, previously 
, a cul-de-sac. 

g I — Park-lane, leading to Oxford- 
street. 

— Down-street. 

Engine-street. Hertford 
House. 

— Whitehorse-street. At west 
corner Sir Walter Scott 
lived when in town. 

— Half Moon-street. East corner 
house Madame d’Arblay lived. 
— Clarges-street. 

— Bolton-street. Bath House. 

— Stratton-street. Corner house, 
Miss Bnrdett Coutts. 
Devonshii*e House. 

— Berkeley-street. 

— Dover-street. 

At Three Kings’ stables, re¬ 
mains of Clarendon House. 
— Albemarle-street. 

— Bond-street. In No. 41, died 
Sterne. 

— Burlington Arcade. 

Bmdington House, Royal 
Academy and Royal Society. 
— Albany (let in chambers.) 

— Sackville-street. 

— Swallow-street. Scottish 
Church. 

— Air-street. 

— Swan & Edgar, drapers. 


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274 


XXXII—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


ST. JAMES’S STREET commences at St. James’s Palace 
and extends to Albemarle-street. 

“ The Campus Martius of St. James’s-street 
Where the beaus’ cavalry pace to and fro, 

Before they take the field in Rotten Row.” 

li. B. Sheridan. 

Ohso've .—East side, Wliite’s Club-house, Nos. 37 and 38 J 
Boodle’s Club-house, No. 28; and on the west side. Crock- 
ford’s, afterwards the Wellington Dining Rooms; New 
University; Brooks’s Club-house, No. 60; Arthur’s, No. 69; 
Conservative Club, No. 85; Thatched House Tavern, con¬ 
taining three poi’traits, two very fine, by Sir Joshua 
Reynolds. Eminent Inhabitants. —Waller, the poet, from 
1660 till the period of his death (1687), in a house on 
the west side. Pope, in “lodgings at Mr. Digby’s, next 
door to y® Golden Ball, on y® Second Terras in St. 
James’s-street.” Gibbon, the historian, died, 1794, in No. 
76 (S. corner of Little St. James’s-street), then Elmsley the 
bookseller’s, now the site of the Conservative Club. Lord 
Byron, in lodgings, at No 8, in 1811. 

“ When we were on the point of setting out from his lodging in St. 
James’s-street [to go to Sydenham to Tom Campbell’s], it being then 
about mid-day, he said to the servant, who was shutting the door of the 
vis-?i-vis, ‘ Have you put in the pistols ? ’ and was answered in the 
affirmative .”—Moords Life of Byron. 

Gillray, the caricaturist (d. 1815), in No. 29, over what was 
then the shop of Messrs. Humphrey, the print-sellers and 
publishers. He threw himself out of an upstairs window, 
and died of the injuries he received. In this street Blood 
made his desperate attack on the great Duke of Ormond, 
when on his way home between 6 and 7 in the evening 
(Tuesday, Dec. 6th, 1670), to Clarendon House, at the top of 
St. James’s Street, where he then resided. The six footmen 
who invariably attended the duke, walking on both sides of 
the street, over against the coach, were by some contrivance 
stopped, or by some mismanagement were not in the way, 
and the duke was dragged out of his carriage, buckled to a 
person of great strength, and actually earned past Berkeley 
House (now Devonshire House) in Piccadilly, on the road to 
Tyburn, where they intended to have hanged him. The 
coachman drove to Clarendon House, told the porter that his 
master had been seized by two men, who had carried him 
down Piccadilly. A chace was immediately made, and the 
duke discovered in a violent stmggle in the mud with the 
villain he was tied to, who regained his horse, fired a pistol 
at the duke, and made his escape. 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES, 


275 


ST. JAMES’S STREET. 


Piccadilly. 


Piccadilly. 


23, Duke of Hamiltonl 
20, Marq. of Salisbury. 


17, Earl of Yarborough. 
Pictures. 


At 

. No. 5. 

Hopatp 

q 5 Walpole Crockford’s. 
I lived. 


— \Vliite’.s Club House. 


Jermyn-street. 







i « 

Site where Sir Rich. 

a> 

(X> 

cn 


OP o 

Steele lived. 

X 

New University — 


b 

Club. 

^cr5 0 

^ «*-l 


P 

t 


N. . 


W.— 


—E. 


22, House of 
the late Mr. 
Rogers (Poet). 


Erooks’s Club — 


Fenton’s Hotel. — 


^ Old Cocoa-ti'ee Club. — 


o o 
.2 <u 

ttH 3 

oQ 
a « 


St. James’s-place. 


Spencer House. 

No. 69, Arthur’s Club. ■ 

No. 85, Conservative Club.- 
In a house on this site died 
Gibbou, the historiau. 


Gillray, the caricaturist, threw 
himself from window of No. 29 


Ryder-strcet. 


King-street. 


Willis’s Rooms. 


— No. 8, Lord Byron’s lodgings 
in 1811. 


Pall Mall. 


T 2 


St. James’s Palace, 


































27C 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


REGENT STREET. One of the most handsome streets 
in the metropolis, was designed and carried out by Mr. John 
Nash, architect, under an Act of Parliament obtained in 
1813, partly at his own cost. It was intended as a com¬ 
munication from Carlton House to the Regent’s Park, and 
cut through St. Alban’s-street, facing Carlton House, thence 
through St, James’s Market across Piccadilly to Castle-street, 
where it forms a Quadrant, intersecting Swallow-street, and 
then, taking the line of Swallow-street (the site of which is 
about the centre of Regent-street), it crosses Oxford-street 
to Foley House, where it joins Portland-place. The 
reason for adopting this line was that great part of the 
property belonged to the Ci'own. Langham-place Church 
was built by Nash as a termination to the view up Regent- 
street from Oxford-street. For this purpose the tower and 
spire are advanced forward to the centre line of the street, 
and appear almost isolated from the church. In his designs 
for Regent-street, Mr. Nash adopted the idea of uniting 
several dwellings into a single fajade, so as to preserve a 
degree of continuity essential to architectural importance ; 
and, however open to criticism many of these designs may 
be, when considered separately, it cannot be denied that he 
has produced a varied succession of architectural sceneiy, 
the effect of which is picturesque and imposing, certainly 
superior to that of any other portion of the metropolis, and 
far preferable to the naked brick walls then universally 
forming the sides of our streets. The perishable nature of 
the brick and composition of which the houses in this street 
are built gave rise to the following epigram :— 

“ Augustus at Rome was for building reuown’d, 

And of marble he left what of brick he had found; 

But is not our Nash, too, a very great master ?— 

He finds us all brick and he leaves us all plaster.” 

Quarterly Review for June. 1826, 


REGENT STREET AND WATERLOO PLACE. 

All Souls’, Langham-place. 
Nash, architect. 


Polytechnic Institution.— 


— National Institute of Fine Arts. 


Oxforcl-st. Oxford-st. 


Hanover Chapel. O.R.Cockerell,+ 
architect. 

Verrey, confectioner and — 
restaurant; good. 

Hanover-street_ 

Lewis and Allonby, drapers_ 

N 


W — 


— E 


S Conduit-street. — 

New Burlington-street. 

The house of Rt. Hon. Fredk.— 
Robinson, Chancellor of Ex¬ 
chequer, in Old Burlington-street, 
was more than once attacked by 
the mob during the Corn Riots of 
1815, the railings torn up, win 
dows and doors split open; and 
on March 6 one of the assailants 
was shot by soldiers posted 
within]. 

Newman’s stables, horses on the 
first, second, and third floors. 

Vigo-street, leading to Albany — 
and Bond-street. 


V 


— Mayall, photographer. 

— Argyll-street. Marlbro’-street, 

— ‘Williams, photographer. 


- Archbishop Tenison’s Chapel. 


Nicoll, tailor. 

Mechi, razors and agriculture, 
lilai^lebone-street. 


St. James’s Hall and Kestaurant.—' 

Swan and Edgar, first-rate mercers, &c. \ ' 

long established house. — 

Piccadilly, 

Jermyn-street. 
Carlton Club Chambers. 
Regent-street Chapel. Repton, arch. — 

Howell and James, mercers. 
Maurigy's Hotel Charles-street. 


Piccadilly. 

-Jermyn-street. 

- Gallery of Illustration 
formerly house of Nash 
the architect. 

—Junior Unit. Ser. Club. 

— Charles-street. 


Pall-Mall. Pall-Mall. 















m 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


HOLBORN, OR OLDBOURNE. A main thoroughfare 
running east and west, between Dr\iry-lane and Farringdoii- 
street. From Drury-lane to Brook-street is called “ High 
Holborn;” from Brook-street to Fetter-lane, ‘‘Holborn;’’ 
and from Fetter-lane to Farrmgdon-street, “ Holborn Hill.” 
At Brook-street stood ‘‘ Holborn Bars,” a block of houses 
projecting from the S. side, so as to narrow the street to 
one-third of its original width, marking the termination 
of the City Liberties in that direction ; and at Farringdon- 
street stood a stone bridge over the Fleet, called “ Old- 
bourne Bridge.” It derives its name from Oldbourne, or 
Hilbourne, a burn or rivulet that broke out near Holborn 
Bars, and ran down the whole street to Oldbourne Bridge, 
and into the river of the Wells and Fleet Ditch. This was 
the old road from Newgate and the Tower to the gallows at 
Tyburn. Up the heavy hill ” went William, Lord Russell, 
on his way to the scaffold in Lincoln’s-Inn-fields. The same 
line of road from Aldgate to Tyburn was chosen for the 
whippings which Titus Oates, Dangerfield, and Johnson 
endured in the I’eign of James 11. Gerard, who dates his 
Herbal (fol. 1597) “ From my house in Holborne, within the 
suburbs of London, this first of December, 1597,” had a 
good garden behind his house, and mentions in his Herbal 
many of the rarer plants which grew well in it. 

To avoid the dangerous descent of Holborn-hill, a Viaduct 
and High-level Bridge over Farringdon-street was commenced 
from Newgate-street, Old Bailey, to Ely-place, 1867. William 
Hey wood, engineer. The bridge is a skew of cast iron, in three 
spans, resting on granite piers. It extends from Hatton 
Garden to Newgate-street, a distance of 1400 ft., witli a 
width of 80 ft., passing over Shoe-lane, close to St. Andrew’s 
Churchyard, from which near 1000 bodies were removed to 
Ilford Cemetery to make way for it. At the Holborn end a 
handsome Circus has been opened out, from which branches 
Hatton Garden, and a fine broad new street leading to Far- 
ringdon Road and Smithfield Meat Market. Under the 
roadway are vaults and sub-chambers for sewers, telegraph- 
wires, gas and water-pipes. 


XXXIT.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


279 


HOLBORN. 


Skinner-street. 



Victoria-street.—l 
Viaduct over the valley, 1867-69.— 


Ely-place.— 
See Ely Chapel. 

Hatton-garden.— 

Leather-lane. — 


Furnival’s-Inn. — 
Brook-street.— 


« Farringdon-street, covering the 

2 I - Fleet Ditch. 

M Shoe-lane. 


2 

I 


O 


+ St. Andrew’s, Holhorn. Wren. 
Dr. Sacheverel’s Church.—Savage 
the poet, baptised in this church. 


— Fetter-lane. 


— Castle-street. 


G ray’ s-I nn-lane. — 
Fox-conrt, (on right hand), birth¬ 
place of Savage, the poet. 

Fulwood’s-rents. — 


—Site of Holhorn Bars, and limitof 
City Liberty without the walls; 
pulled down 1867. 

— Chancery-lane. 


--Great Turnstile. 


Red-Lion-street.- 


<£> 



Lincoln’s-Inn- 

fields. 


Kingsgate-street. — 


— Little Turnstile. 

— New Turnstile. 


Sonthampton-row. — 
Sonthampton-street. — 


— Little Queen-street. 

Down this street Lord Russell 
was led to the scaffold in Lin¬ 
coln’s Inn Fields. 



Museum-street, Drury-lane. 
leading to British Museum. W. 

Leading to Oxford-street. 










280 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


STRAND. 


Temple liar. 

E. Child’s Bank. 


The Strand was not paved nntil I 
1532. As many as nine RL'/iops I 
possessed inns or hostels on I 
the water side of the Strand, ! 
at the Reformation. No traces j 
of their houses hut the names I 
remain. (See Scott’s “For- i 
tunes of Nigel.”) 

Site of the New Law Courts. + 
Clement’s Inn, j 

Wych-st., leading to Drui*y-lane. — 


Holywell-street.— 
Full of Jew-clothesmen 
and book-stalls. 


First of 50 Churches erected in Q. 
Anne’s reign, Jas. Gihbs, archt. 


+ 


— Site of Essex House. 

— Devereux-court, Here was the 

Grecian Coffee-house. 

St. Clement’s Hanes Church de- 
I signed by Wren, named from 
j Danes buried here (Harold 
: Harefoot, Son of Canute). In a 
j pew near the pulpit, close to a 
pillar, Z)r. Sam. Johnson wor- 
j shipped for 20 years. 

\ Site of Arundel House. 

St. Mary-le-Strand Church. Site 
I of Maypole, 


Catherine-street, leading to — 
lirydges-street. 

Lyceum Theatre. — 


!— King’s College. 

I — Somerset House. Public office. 


,— 141, Site of Jacob Tonson’sshop. 


— Wellington-street, leading to 
Waterloo Bridge. 

The Savoy was granted to Peter of 
Savoy, uncle of Henry III., 1245. 


Burleigh-street. — 
Site of Exeter ’Change. 


— Savoy Chapel, down “ Savoy 
Steps.” Worth seeing. 


Southanjpton-street. — 
Site of Bedford House. 

Adelphi Theatre. — 
Behind this Theatre is Maiden 
Lane, in which Andrew Marvell 
lived and Voltaire lodged. 


King William-street. — 
Electric Telegraph Office. — 

Golden Cross Inn. 


— Beaufort Buildings. Site of 

Worcester House. 

,— Cecil-street. Site of Salisbury 
House and New Exchange. 

— Adam-st.:—leading to Adelphi 

I Terrace, facing the River, 

in the centre house of which 
j Gan’ick died. 

— Coutts & Co., Bankers. 


,— Site of Durham House, where 


I Sir Waller Raleigh lived. Go down 
Buckingham-street and see the 
I Water Gate, all that remains of 

York House, built for VRliers, 
I Dukeof Buckingham. 

— Site of York House. LordBacon 
I born here. 

.— Charing-cross Railway Station. 
I Queen Eleanor’s Cross restored. 


'— Northumberland House. 


W. 

Charing Cross, 








XXXTI,—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


281 


FLEET STREET. 


Viaduct of London, Chatham and Dover Railway, 
over Ludgate Hill. 

E. — Bridge-street, Blackfriars. 


Fleet ditch, now a sewer, under 
Farringdon-street. Fleet-st. 
is named from the Fleet, a 
stream which became a ditch 
and open sewer—now covered. 

It entered the Thames near 
Blackfriars bridge. On its 
banks stood the Fleet prison, 
now the London, Chatham, 
and Dover goods station. 

.Shoe-lane, leading to Ilolborn. — 

Bolt-court. — 
Dr. Johnson died here. 


Crane-court—Scottish Hospital; — 
Old Meeting Room of Royal 
Society, when Sir Isaac 
Newton was President. 

Fetter-lane, leading to Holborn. — 
Peele’s Coffee House; — 
Newspapers filed here. 

I 


Church of St. Dunstan’s in + 
the West. Shaw, architect. | 
Crown Life Insurance. — I 
Here the Fire of London stopped. 

Chancery-lane. — 
Seven doors up, on 
the left, lived 
Isaak Walton. 


Cock Tavern. — 
Famous for Stout. 

Site for New Law Courts. 


— Bride-lane, leading to Bridewell 

Hospital. 

4- St. Bride’s Church. 

Built by Wren. 

— To Salisbury-square, 

In which Richardson, the novelist 
lived. 


— Bouverie - street, leading to 

Whitefriars and Alsatia. 

— Serjeants’ Inn. 


— Site of Mitre Taveni. Resort 
of Dr. Johnson and Boswell. 


— Hoare’s Banking House. 


— Inner-Temple - gate, leading 

to Temple Church: at W. 
corner house. Pope and War- 
burton first met. 

— Rainbow Tavern. Famous for 

Stout. 

— Middle-Temple-gate. 


— Child’s Banking House. 

Oldest Banking House in London. 
Site also of Devil Tavern. 


w. 

Temple Bar. 








282 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


CHEAPSIDE, or Cheap. A street between the Poultry (E.) 
and St. Paul’s (W.), a continuation of the line from Charing Cross 
to the Koyal Exchange, from Holborn to the Bank of England. 
Tliis street, one of the most frequented thoroughfares in 
London, was famous in former times for its “ Kidings,” its 
“ Cross,” its “ Conduit,” and its “ Standard,” and, still later, 
for its silk-mercers, linen-drapers, and hosiers. 

The last Lord Mayor’s pageant, devised by the City poet, 
and publicly performed (Elkanah Settle was this last City 
poet), was seen by Queen Anne in the first year of her reign 
(1702) “from a balcony in Cheapside.” The concluding plate 
of Hogarth’s “Industry and Idleness” represents the City 
procession entering Cheapside—the seats erected on the occa¬ 
sion and the canopied balcony, hung with tapestry, containing 
Frederick, Prince of Wales, father of George III., and his 
Princess, as spectators of the scene. 

Observe .—Church of St. Mary-le-Bow {see Sect, xiv.); 
Saddlers’ Hall, next No. 142 : here Sir Richard Blackmore, 
the poet, followed the profession of a physician. No. 90, 
corner of Ironmonger-lane, was the shop of Alderman Boydell 
(d. 1804). Before he removed here, he lived “at the Unicorn, 
tlie corner of Queen-street, in Cheapside, London.” Before 
the present Mansion-house was built in 1737, No. 73 was 
used occasionally as the Lord Mayor’s Mansion-house. 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


283 


CHEAPSIDE AND POULTRY. 


E. Mansion House. 


St. Mildred in the Poultry. — 


Site of Poultry Compter. — 
Grocers’ Hall. 


Queen Victoria-street, leading 
to Blackfriars Bridge and 
Thames Quay. 


Old Jewry. — 

Mercers’ Hall, behind which — 
Thomas Becket, Archbishop 
of Canterbury, was horn. 


— Bucklersbury, leading to the 
beautiful church of St. 
Stephen’s, Walbrook, one of 
Wren’s greatest works. 


King-street, leading to the — 
Guild-Hall. 


— Queen-street, leading to South¬ 
wark Bridge. 


Laurence-lane. — 


— St. Mary-le-Bow Church. The 
spire is one of Wren’s great 
masterpieces (see Sect. xiv}. 


Milk-street. Sir Thomas More— 
bom in. 


- Bread-street. 

Milton born in. Here stood the 
Mermaid Tavern, frequented by 
Shakspeare, Raleigh, Ben Jonson, 


Wood-street. — 


— Friday-street. 


Gutter-lane. — 


— Old Change. 


General Post Office. — 


W. St. Paul’s Church-yard, 


Near St. Paul’s was Bishop Bomier's Coal Hole, one of the worst 
prisons in which the victims of the Popish Persecution under 
Queen Mary were shut up. 






284 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


CORNHILL. 

Near the junction of Cornhill and Leadenhall-street stood 
the ^‘Standard/’ built 1682, for distributing water brought 
from the Thames by a forcer, invented by Peter Morris, a 
Dutchman. Distances along many of the high roads out of 
London were measured from it. 


Bishopsgate-st., leading to 
Shoreditcli. 


Cornhill, so called, from a — 
corn market “ time out of 
mind there holden.” 


Finch-lane. — 
Joe’s Chop-house, good. 

Ned’s Chop-house, excellent. 


Site of Freeman’s-court, — 
in which He Foe lived. 


Royal Exchange. — 


Rank of England. — 
Princcs-strcet. W. 


o 

e3 

0 > 

Gracechurch-st., leading to 
E, London Bridge. 

— St. Peter’s Church. 

— St. iMichael’s Church. 

— St. Michael’s-alley. 

— No. 41, Gray the poet was horn 
1716, in a house on this site. 

— Birchiu-lane. 

- Change-alley. 

— Pope’s Head-alley. 

— Lomhard-street. 

St. Mary Woolnoth Ch. 

Mansion House. 





XXXII.— rillNCirAL thouougiifares. 


285 


DRURY LANE. 


“0 may thy virtue guard thee through 
the roads 

Of Drury’s mazy courts and dark 
abodes! 

The harlots’ guileful paths, who 
nightly stand 

Where Catherine-street descends in¬ 
to the Strand.”—Gay’s “Trivia.” 


Is 

-4-» ^ 

W 2 
o ^ 


Broad-street, St. Giles’s. 


Ilolborn. 


Drnry-lane, so called from the — 
town house of the Drury 
family. It lost its aristo¬ 
cratic character early in the 
reign of "Wm. 111. 


Long Acre, leading to — 
Leicester-square. 


Little Russell-street, leading — 
to Covent-garden, Drury-lane 
Theatre, &c. 


— Coal-yard, birth-place of 
Nell Gwynn. 




— Charles-street alias Lewknor's- 
laiie, long a notoriously 
bad part of London. 


— Great Queen-street, leading 
to Lincoln’s-inn-fields. 


a 

o 

I 

0) 

c 


— Pit-place, properly Cockpit- 
place, site of Cockpit Theatre 
(the first Drury-laue Theatre). 


— Pi’ince’s-street, leading to 
Lincoln’s-Inn-fields. 


Russell-court, footway from - 
City to Covent-garden. 


Site of Nell Gwyim’s lodging, — 
where Pepys saw her “ stand¬ 
ing at her lodgings’ door, in 
her smock-sleeves and bodice,” 
watching the milkmaids on 
May.day, 1667. 


Craven-buildings, site of Craven 



Strand. 











286 


XXXII.—nilNCIPAL THOROUGIirARES. 


CHANCERY LANE. 



N 


W- 


Wentworth, Lord Strafford, was 
born, 1593, in the house of his 
mother’s father, Mr. Robert 
Atkinson, a bencher of Lin¬ 
coln’s Inn. 


GateAray to Lincoln’s-Inn, of- 
the age of Henry VIII. (1518). 


Union Bank- 
Carey-street.- 


Law Institution and Club.— 


Izaak Walton lived in the 7th 
house from Fleet-st., 1627-44. 


Temple Bar. 


-Southamplon-buildings. 


-Cursitor-street. 

-Rolls House and Chapel. 


In lloll* chapel is a very fine monu¬ 
ment, Italian work, XVIth CMtury, 
perhaps by Torregiano.to Dr. Young, 
whose recumbent effigy is finely 
modelled in terra cotta, while at the 
back appears the head of the Saviour, 
with a cherub on each side. The 
Rolls of the Court of Chancery were 
formerly kept in iron presses round 
this chapel, extending even behind 
the altar. Adjoining is the residence 
of the Master of the Rolls. 


—New Record office. 
—Serjeants’ Inn. 


Jacob Tonson the bookseller’s 
first shop, 1694. 


Fleet-street. Fleet-street. 













XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


287 


OXFORD STREET. A line of thoroughfare, one mile and 
a half long, between St. Giles’s Pound and old Tyburn (now 
Cumberland Gate), so called from its being the highway 
from London to Oxford. In 1708 it was known as Tyburn- 
road. It is, however, somewhat uncertain when it was first 
formed into a continuous line of street, and in what year it 
was first called Oxford-street. New Oxford-street, opened 
for carriages ]\Iarch 6th, 1847, occupies the site of the 
‘‘ Rookery ” of St. Giles, through which it was driven at a 
cost of 290,227?. 4s. lOf?., of which 113,963?. was paid to the 
Duke of Bedford alone for freehold purchases. All that re¬ 
mained, in the autumn of 1849, of this infamous Rookery (so 
called as a place of resort for sharpers and quarrelsome 
people) was included and condensed in ninety-five wretched 
houses in Church-lane and Carrier-street, wherem, incredible 
as the fact may appear, no less than 2850 persons were 
crammed into a space of ground between 1 and 1^ acre in 
area. In these noisome abodes nightly shelter, at 3c?. per 
head, might be obtained. 

The long avenue of street, formerly called NEW ROAD, 
is a continuation of the City-road, leading to the Regent’s 
Park, St. John’s-wood, and the Edge ware-road. It was 
planned in 1754, and opened about 1758. Observe. —St. 
James’s Chapel, Pentonville (on the north side); here R. P. 
Bonington, the painter, is buried.—St. Pan eras New Chm’ch. 
—Holy Trinity Church, Marylebone.—St. Mai'ylebone New 
Church. 

CITY ROAD. A crowded thoroughfare—a continuation 
of the Euston-road, running from the Angel at Islington to 
Finsbury-square; opened 1761; Mr. Diugley, the projector, 
who gave it the name of the City-road, modestly declining 
to have it called after his own name. Observe. — John 
Wesley’s chapel and gi’ave, immediately opposite Bunhill- 
fields Burial-ground. 

“Great multitudes assembled to see the ceremony of laying the founda¬ 
tion, so that Wesley could not, without much difficulty, get through the 
press to lay the first stone, on which his name and the date were inserted 
on a plate of brass. ‘ This was laid by John Wesley, on April 1,1777.’ 
Probably, says he, this will be seen no more by any human eye, but will 
remain there till the earth, and the works thereof are burnt up.”— 
Southey’s Life, of Wesley, ii. 385. 


288 


XXXI].—PRINCIPAL THOROUGIIFA RES. 


BOW STREET, COVENT GARDEN, 

So called from running in the shape of a bent bow. 


Long Acre. 

Covent Garden Theatre, or — 
Royal Italian Opera. 

On the site of this theatre 
lived Dr. RadcliflFe, Wycherley, 
and many other wits, from 1646 
to 1735, 

Bow-street Police Office. Here- 
Fielding wrote his Tom Jones. 


Site of Will’s Coffee-house. —, 


Great Russell-street, 


J_ 

Long Acre. 


— Upper house, corner of King’s 
Arms-court, lived Grinling 
Gibbons. 



S 


Great Russell-street. 


GREAT QUEEN STREET, 


So called in compliment to Hen¬ 
rietta Maria, Queen of Chas. I. 

Little Queen-sti'eet, leading to — 
Holborn. 

Down this street Lord Russell was 
led to the scaffold in Lincoln’s- 
Inn-fields. 


The whole of the north side was 
built a century later than the 
south. 


E 

N — — a 

I 

w 


Drury-lane. 


LINCOLN’S-INN-FIELDS. 

Lincoln’s-Inn-fields. 

House of Lord Chancellor Somers 
and the Minister Duke of New¬ 
castle, temp, George II. 

The whole of the south side was 
originally built by Inigo Jones, 
and from 1630 to 1730 was one of 
the most fashionable localities 
in, London—the houses com 
manding a fine view of Holbom- 
fields. Great Marlborough-st., 
a century later, was similarly 
situated with respect to Oxford- 
street. In one of these houses 
Lord Herbert of Cherbury died. 
In another Sir Godfrey Kneller 
lived for the last twenty years 
of his life. The large red-brick 
house, with an arch-way under 
it (now Nos. 55 and 56) was the 
house of Hudson, the portrait- 
painter, and master of Sir Joshua 
Reynolds. 


Drury-lane. 




















XXXII.—rRINCIPAL THOROUGH FARES. 2&9 


CHARING CROSS TO WESTMINSTER ABBEY 


N. 


>4 S 

5 

.' 2^0 

Drummond’s Bank. — 5 « 

“5 aj M 
® ja.a 



Admiralty. — 


Paymaster-Gen.’s office. — 


Horse Guards. 

Office of the Com.-in-Chief. 


Treasury.— 

Office of the Prime Minister. 

Site of Cockpit, in which 
Oliver Cromwell lived. 


Chancel, of the 
Exchequer. 


O WJ 

oO 

So 


Northumberland House. 


Craig’s-court. 

Cox and Greenwood’s. 


Scotland Yard. 

Metropolitan Police-station. 


Whitehall Banqueting-]lOuse, 
built by Inigo Jones. 


Privy Gardens. 

Sir R. Peel’s house. 


-Montague House. 
Duke of Buccleuch. 


Downing-st. 


Richinond-terr.—Siteof Duchess 
of Portsmouth’s lodgings. 


Colonial Office. 

New Public 
Offices. 

Foreisn Office. 

India Office. _ 

In King-street died 
lack of bread, 
Spenser, author of 
“ Faerie Queene.’ 


Gre at Geor ge-s treet. 



Westminster Club. 


estminster Bridge 


Cannon-street. 




















290 


XXXII.—PEINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


PARK LANE. 


T]ie S.W. corner of Edgeware 
Road, close to Arklow House, 
is the site of Tyburn Gallows, 
and burial-placa of Oliver 
Cromwell. 


13 

a 

a 


"a 


o 


Oxford-street. 


I I 

Marble Arch, 
from Buckingham Palace. 


Grosvenor Gate. — 


HYDE PARK. 

The whole of the railings of 
Hyde Park were torn down by 
a lawless mob, led on by the 
Reform League, on July 23, 
1866. 


— Camelford House. Where the 

Princess Charlotte and Prince 
Leopold lived. 

— Green-street: 'at No. 56, died 

Rev. Sydney Smith. 

— Lord Ward. Paintings by 

Raphael, &c. 

— Upper Grosvenor-street. 

— Grosvenor House. Lord West¬ 

minster. Gallery of Paint¬ 
ings. 

— Mount-street. 


— South-street 


Dorchester House. Viilliamy, 
Architect. Built for Mr. Hol- 
ford. Fine Pictures and Library. 

Stanhope Gate.— 


— Stanhope-street. Chesterfield 
House, racing the Park. 


— Uoldernesse House. Earl Vane. 


Gloucester House. — 


Piccadilly. 












XXXll.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


291 


NEWGATE STREET. 


General Post Office. 


E. 


St. Martin’s-le-Grand. 


Bath-street (Old Bagnio), in 
time of Charles II. 


Bull-Head-court. — 
Bas-relief of William Bvaas and 
Sir Jeffrey Hudson. 


King-Edward-street, formerly — 
Butcher-hall-lane. 


Passage leading to Christ’s 
Hospital. 


Christ’s Hospital, New Hall. — 


— Panyer-alley. (Curious sculp¬ 
ture in.) 


-Queen’s-Head-passage. (Dolly's 
Chop-house in.) 


Ivy-lane. (Site of Dr. Johnson’s 
Ivy-lane Club.) 

— Newgate Market. 


In Bell-inn, died, 1684, 
Archbishop Leighton. 


Site of Giltspur-street 
Compter, pulled down 1855, 


Pye-comer. 

Here Fire of Lon- Giltspur-street. 
don stopped. 

SL X 
Sepulchre’s 
Church. 


— Warwick-lane. (Site of Old 
College of Physicians, built by 
W ren. Observe .—Effigy of 

Guy on W. wall of lane.) 

Newgate. 


Old Bailey. 



Ci 

Holbom 

O 

0 

Viaduct. 

CD 


2, 


0P5 

W 


o 

cn 


u 2 





















292 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


ALDERSGATE STREET. 


Wildei’ness-roH'. 


N-■. 

Old-street-road. 


Charter House. • 


Smithfield. 

Metropol. 

Meat 

Market. 


Long-lane. — 


Albion Tavern, - 
famous for good dinners, 

London House, - 
formerly residence of Bishops of 
London. 

Westmoreland-buildings, - 
marking site of town-house of 
the Nevilles, Earls of West- 
morela d. 

Little Britain,- 
St, Botolph, Aldersgate.- 
Bull and Mouth street. - 

iloney Order Office- 

Telegraph Office- 


Newgate-street. 




—Site of Pistol’s “ Manor of Pict- 
hatch.” 


— Barbican. 


— Lauderdale-huildings, marking 

site of Lauderdale House, 
town-house of Duke of Lauder¬ 
dale, temp. Chas, II. 

— Shaftesbury House, built by 

Inigo Jones for the Earl of 
Thanet. Here lived Lord 
Chancellor Shaftesbury, temp. 
Chas, II. 


Here stood Aldersgate—one of 
the gates in the old city walls. 


General Post-office. 


Cheapside. 


St, Paul’s. X 


S, 













XXXII.—PRIXCIPAL TIIOROUGlIFArrS. 


293 


FISH-STREET HILL, GRACECHURCH STREET, AND 
BISHOPSGATE-STREET. 

St. Botolph, Bisliopsgate. Houndsditcli. 


Bull Inn, used as a stage (before - 
theatres were erected) by Tarl- 
ton and Burbage; here Hob¬ 
son, the caiTier, put up. 

South Sea House. — 

Threadneedle-st.- 
St. Martin’s Outwich. - 
London Tavern, celebi’ated for - 
good dinners. 


N 


W — 


E 


Cornhill. — 

Omnibusesfor Sur— 
rey and Kent start 
from both sides of 
street. 


At the Cross Keys, in the reign- 
of Queen Elizabeth, Bankes 
exhibited his horse, Morocco. 

Lombard-st. - 

White-Hart-court. Fox, founder- 
of the Quakers, died in. 

Nag’s-Head-court. M. Green,- 
the poet, died in. 

King William-street.— 

Statue of William IV, marks — 
the site of Boar’s Head Ta¬ 
vern in Eastcheap. 


Arthur-strect. Here stood a — 
stone house in which Edward 
the Black Prince was lodged. — 


— Here stood Bishopsgate, one of 
the gates in London-wall. 


— St. Helen’s Bishopsgate. 

— Crosby Hall. Good perpendi¬ 
cular building, temp. Hen. VIII 
Wesleyan Centenary Hall. 


— Leadenhall-strcet. 


— Fenchurch-street, 

— St. Bennet, Gracechurch. 


— Little Eastcheap. 


— The Monument—202 feet from 
whicli the Fire of London 
began. 


— St. Magnus, by Sir C. Wren, 


The Thames, 

Site of old London Bridge. 






294 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


UPPER AND LOWER THAMES STREET. 

The Tower. 


St. Dunstan’s-hill. 

St. Dunstan’s, by Wren. 

St. Mary-at-Hill. 
Coal Exchange. — 


Pudding-lane. Fire of London — 
began. 

Fish-street-hill. — 
King William-street. — 

. E 


N —— S 


W 

Suffolk-lane. — 
Merchant Taylors’ School. — 

Dowgate. — 

S. E. Railway Bridge.— 


College-hill. — 
St. Michael’s, CoUege-hill, by 
Wren. 

St. James’s Gaiiickhithe, by + 
Wren. 

St. Michael’s, Queenhithe, by 
Wren. 

Brcad-strcet-hill, leading to — 
CheaiJside. 

Old Fish-street-hill. — 


ej 

H 


— Custom-house. 

— Billingsgate Market. 


0 ) 

o 


— Steamboats down river for 

Greenwich, Woolwich, Black- 
wall, &c. 

— Site of Old London Bridge. 

— St. Magnus, by Wren. 

.— London Bridge. 


— Fishmongers’ Hall. 

— Old Shades, famous for its wines. 


— Steamboats up river to Black- 
friars, Chelsea, &c. 

All Hallows the More; hand¬ 
some screen, presented by 
Hans merchants. 


eS 

.U 

H 


P. 

Pc 


— Cannon-street Terminus of S.E. 

Railway, occupies the site of 
the Steel-yard, or Hall of the 
Hans Merchants, 1250—1550. 

— Three Cranes in the Yin try. 

— Sonthwark Bridge. 

— Vintners’ Hall. 


— Queenhithe, a quay or market, 
long the rival of Billingsgate. 


X St. Mary Somerset. 

Bennet’s, Paul’s - wharf, 
burial-place of Inigo Jones, 
leading to Heralds’ College, 
and Doctors’ Commons. 

Bible Society’s House. 


London, Chatham, & Do 


— Site of Baynard Castle. The 
castle of Bainardus, the Nor¬ 
man associate of William 
the Conqueror, whose name 
survives also in Bayswater, 
i. e., Baynard’s water. 

— Puddle Dock. 


ver Railway and Bridge. 
H — Blackfriars Bridge. 
New Bridge-street, Blackfriars. 







XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


295 


HIGH-STREET, 


River Thames, 


St. Saviour’s, Southwark. + 

Site of Bishop of Winchester’s — 
Palace, near to which stood 
the Globe Theatre, in which 
Shakspeare acted. 


St. Margaret’s-hill.— 
N 

W —|— E 
S 


Union-street. — 


The Mint; the Alsatia of 
Southwark. 


SOUTHWARK. 

«) 

(so 

ns 

•d 

pq 

River Thames. 


— London Bridge Railway Stats. 

of 5 separate lines; of Dover, 
Brighton, Greenwich, &c. 
Line of junction from London 
bridge to Charing-cross. 

Former site of 

— St. Thomas’s Hospital, 

— St. Thomas’s Church. 

— Guy’s Hospital. 


— Site of Talbot Inn, the Tabard of 
Chaucer’s “ Canterbury Talcs.” 


King-street. 

Site of Marshalsea Prison, 
marked by house No. 119. 
Here many Protestant mar¬ 
tyrs suffered in the days of 
Queen Mary. 


+ St. George’s Church, Southwark, 
burial-place of Bishop Bonner, 
Rushworth, and Cocker. 







295 


XXXII.—PRINCIP*\L THOROUGHFARES. 


THE THAMES. 

From Battersea to Vanxhall Bridge. 


Battersea — 


Battersea Church. Bui’ial-place 
of Lord Bolinghroke. 


Chelsea New Bridge— 


Battersea Park. 346 acres; 

16 acres of water; walks 
and drives, with planta¬ 
tions. Cost £336,000. 

Red House, famous for pigeon 
shooting, stood here. 

X Steam Pier— 


Pimlico Suspension 

X 

Battersea Park Railway Station 
and double Railway 
for Chatham and Dover, 
Brighton, and other Lines— 
leading to Victoria Station. 


Cremorne Gardens. 

In the central cottage of three, 
near Cremome Pier, J. M. VV. 
Turner, the landscape painter, 
d. 1851. 


Bridge. 


Site of Sir 
^ house. 


Thomas More's 


'O 


Site of Chelsea Botanic Gardens, 
Cedar planted 1683. 


Chelsea Old Church. Grave 
and Monument of Sir T. 
More and Sir Hans Sloane. 


Chelsea Hospital. 


Gardens. 


Bridge. 

Guards Barracks. 

Siteof Ranelagh Gardens. 
Bridge. 

Grosvenor Canal Entrance, 


St. Barnabas Church. 


T. Cubitt’s House-building 
Factory. 


X 

Church of Holy Trinity, built 
at the expense of a Preben¬ 
dary of Westminster. 


Vauxhall Bridge. 









XXXII,—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


297 


THE THAMES. 

From VauxUall Bridge to Hungerford Bridge. 


Vauxhall Bridge. 


Site of Vauxliall Gardens. — 
Vauxhall Sta. of S, W. Railway— 


Lambeth Old Church. — 
Burial-place of Tradescant and 
Ashmole. 

Lambeth Palace. — 
Lollards’ Tower. — 

I 

I 

Embankment. 


St. Thomas’s 
Hospital. 


Timber Yards.— 


Government Stores.— 


Hungerford Rail 


— Penitentiary. 

— Millbank. 


Iron Wire Suspension Bridge. 


— St. John’s Churc , West¬ 
minster, 


X 

Westminster Abbey. 


— Houses of Parliament. 


Westminster Iron Bridge, 
Thames Embankment and 
Quay begins here. 

*: — Railway Station, 
g — Richraond-terrace. 
a — Montague House, 

—Privy Gardens, Whitehall 
« Here Sir R. Peel died, 
g — Whitehall Stairs. 

U — Scotland Yard, 

03 — Northumberland House, 
g — Charing Cross Terminus of 
^ S. E. Railway. 

^ — At the river side under 
Bridge, Charing Cross 
station of Metropolitan 
Railway. 

a Foot Bridge. 









298 


XXXIl.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


THE THAMES. 

From Hungerford Bridge to Blackfriars Bridge. 


Charing Cross or Hungerford Bridge. 

— Thames Embankment, continued. 
— Site of York House. 


Lion Brewery.— 
Shot Tower.— 
Timber Yard.— 

Iron Foundries.— 


— Water-gate, built by Nic. 

Stone, for Villiers, D. of 
Buckingham. 

— Adelphi-terrace — in centre 

house Garrick died. 


— Savoy. 


— Duchy of Lancaster Office. 


X South-Western Railway 
or Waterloo Station. 

Waterloo 


Old Lambeth Marsh, now tra¬ 
versed by Stamford-street. 


Christ Church. 
Site of Paris Garden. 


Bridge. 

— Somerset House. 

— King’s College. 

— Tower of St. Mary-le-Strand. 

— Site of Arundel House. 

— Tower of St. Clements’ Danes. 

— Essex Pier and site of Essex 

House. 

— Middle Temple Hall. 

X Temple Church. 

— Temple Gardens. 

— Paper Buildings (red), Temple. 

— Whitefriars, or Alsatia. 

— Site of Salisbury House and 

Dorset House. 

— Fine spire of St. Bride’s, 

Wren. 

— Fleet Ditch or Sewer nins into 

the Thames. 


New Blackfriars Bridge. 

Alexandra Bridge for London Chatham and Dover RaUway. 







XXXII.—PRINCIPAL TIIOROUGIIPARES. 


299 


THE THAMES. 

From Blackfriars Bridge to London Bridge. 


Blackfriars Bridge. 


X 

Times Newspaper Office, 


Bankside—siteof the old Theatres, 
the Bear Garden, &c. 

Barclay’s Brewhouse — 
Site of Globe Theatre. — 
Remains of Winchester Palace. 

X 

St. Saviour’s Church (see Sect. xiv). 


— Site of Blackfriars Theatre 

— Site of Castle Baynard. 

!— Large Flour Mill. 

X 

St. Paul’s. 

— Church of St. Bennet, Paul’s- 

wharf. Inigo Jones buried 
here. 

— Paul’s-wharf Pier. 

Fine view from river of the 
spires and towers of churches 
by Wren. The tallest and 
handsomest is Bow Church. 

— Church of St. Michael’s, Queen- 

hithe. The ship at the top of 
the vane is capable of holding 
a bushel of grain, the great 
article of traffic still at 
Queenhithe. 

— Queenhithe. 


— Vintners’ Hall. 

Southwark Bridge. 

— Three Cranes in the Vintry. 


—Site of Guild of the Steelyard. 
Now Cannon-street Terminus, 
&c. 

— Steamboat Pier. 

— Shades, famous for its wine. 

— Fishmongers’ Hall. 


London Bridge. 







300 


XXXII.—PRINCirAL THOROUGHFAUES, 


THE THAMES. 

From London Bridge to Blackwall. 


London Bridge. 


Thames 


n 


See also p. 42, for further account 
of the River below London 
Bridge. 


Rotherhithe Church. — 


Comraei’cial Docks. — 


Pier. 

Deptford. 


Greenwich Hospital. 
Greenwich 

Observatory on hill. + 

Famous for f Trafalgar Tavern, 
fish dinners ( Crown and Sceptre. 


Red Tower of Charlton Church — 


Site of Old London Bridge. 

— The Monument. 

Subway. 

— Fine Tower of St. Magnus. 

— Steam-boat Pier to Gravesend, 

Margate, and boats too large 
for “ above bridge.” 

— Coal Exchange. 

— Tower of London. 

— Traitors’ Gate. 

The large square tower, with 
turrets, is called the “White 
Tower.” 

— St. Katherine’s Docks. 

London Docks. 

Wapping. 

Thames Tunnel and Pier, 
connecting Wapping with 
Rotherhithe. 


Limehouse Church with flag 
stall’ on top of tower. 


— West India Docks. 


Isle of Dogs New Docks. Here 
the River is very serpentine. 


Millwall Iron 
Yards, closed 
1869. 


Shipbuilding 
and sold off. 


— Blackwall Railway Station. 

— Lovegrove’s Tavern, famous 
for fish dinners. 

— East India Docks. 

— Victoria Docks. 

— North Woolwich Railway. 











301 


!•!) 


4' 

4 ^ 


tt 

C 4-1 

O 

W' 

cT 


<v jJ 

« OT 

te «J 

5h 

Q 

oT 


r:} 

a> 

« 

C<H 

o 

p 

<© 




C'^ 


■\Y alker-st. 


16, Sir Roderick 
Murchison. 


N. 


BELGRAVE SQUARE. 

W. E. 

Built 1826—1833. 

Geo. Basevi, architect. 




Ilalkin-st. 


45, D. of Montrose. 






S. 


e O 

5 o 

O 

c 

s * 

Pi H 
<^p 


^ c 


.4^ 


p 

p_ 

t-T 

j" 


rS 

f3 

I_ 


Upper Brook-st. 


24,E. of Shaftesbury. 
23, Dowager Dss. of 
Cleveland. 


W. 


N. 

GROSVENOR 

SQUARE. 

Built 1720—1730. 




E. 


Grosvenor-st. 


Both the Marquis of Rock¬ 
ingham and Lord North 
lived in this square when 
Prime Ministers. 


> 

« 

u o 

^ g 

ci 

a) 

P 


s. 


7, 


«> 

f3 

<1 

«5 


^ • I I 

. ® fe ® !=! 

^ S o oj ® 

0) O W 2 r1 O 

-w a « 
a> tiC S, S a) . . 

^ inT 00 

CO CO CO CO 


I— 

I 

M 

a? 

<3 


o U 
3 


Earl of Wilton. 












302 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL SQUARES. 


Hill-street. 

43, Earl of Hadding¬ 
ton. 

44, Fine staircase 
by Kent. 

45, Earl of Powis. 
The great Lord Clive 
died in this house. 


H 


Q 


W. 


N. 

BERKELEY 

SQUARE. 

Built 1730—1740. 


21, E. of Balcarres. 

Lady Ann Lindsay 
_ died in this house. 

Bruton-street. 


E. 


Observe :—the large and 
vigorous Planes. 

S. 

I- 

Lansdowne House. 


Horace Walpole 
died at No. 11. 
Gunter, celebrated 
for Ices. 

Hay Hill. 



Upper Berkeley-st. Berkeley-street. 

The detached house in the N.W. comer was Mrs. Montagu’s. 
Here she held her blue-stocking parties, anclgave her chim¬ 
ney-sweeps’ entertainment to the poor boys on May Day. 


PORTMAN 

SQUARE. 

E. 

Built 1790—1800. 


Upper Seymour-st. 

s. 


Seymour-street, 

T r 


1 

r 

CP 

CP 

bo 

d 

a 

O 

xn 

CP 


a 

1 

g 


u 


cd 

c 

o * 

• 

o 

Vi 

a 

a 

Vi 

O 

Oh 

o' 

CO 

V-( 

o 

xA 

ra 

o 

Vi 

O 




















XXXll.—PRINCIPAL SQUARES. 


303 


London Library. 
Statistical Society. 

Lichfield House. 

Lord Castlereagh 
lived in corner 
house. 

King-street. 

17, D. of Cleveland. 

18, Sir W. Wynn. 

19, B.'of Winchstr. 
Army and Navy 

Club. 


4, Earl de Grey. 
Fine Pictures. 

2, E. of Falmouth. 
Lon.&West.Bank. 

Charles-street. 
23, Earl of Derby. 

22, Bp. of London. 

21, Dk. of Norfolk. 
Geo.III. bom here. 


pO 

o g 


. 




O 

u 



CO 

s 

S'-" 


» 


o 0 ^ 

•S ^ o 

CL> 

Q> 

c«-i 

O 



-«-» 

CQ 



th o\o 

CO CO 





f-t 

O 


tH 

H 

>< 

1 1 

fS 


% 

N. 



ST. JAMES’S 
SQUARE. 

W. Built 1674 -1690. E. 
Statue of William III. 


S. 

I- 1 


'O ns 
S ^ « 

P o oi ® 

2 ^ a o5 

W i-H Eb 

H K I* N 

eo" (n'cq i-T 


Royal Academy of p 
Music. -* 

Tenterden-street. 


N. 


Prince’s-street. 


Oriental Club. 


HANOVER SQUARE. 

Built 1720—1730. 


W. 


E. 


20, Earl of Lucan. 


Statue of William Pitt, 
by Chantrey. 


Brook-street. 

1. 


s 


-M 

Qi 


o 

O bo 

u 

•4-J 

CO 


6 

fco 

• 

u 

CO ^ ea 

o 

o 


O 

>> >> 0) 


ei 'O 

h-3 


Hanover-sq. rooms. 
Hire of Great 
Room, 10 guineas 
morn., 15 guineas 
evening.—OfLit- 
tleRoom,5&6gs., 
—gas and attend¬ 
ance included. 

Hanover-street. 


















304 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL SQUARES. 


J 


. The whole N. . 
'o'S side was to have "S 

g been occupied S 

by the entrance “ 

^71.3 to the town ” 

^ I house of the 

S magnificent D. ^ 

fn of Chandos, 

I-1 1_I L. 


W. side Harcourt 
House, residence of 
Duke of Portland. 


N. 

CAVENDISH 

SQUARE. 

Built 1730—1760. 

W. Equestrian Statue of 
Duke of Cumberland, 
Victor at Culloden, 1746. 
Statue of Lord G. Bentinck • 


E. 


S. 


a 

a> 

e3 

O 


Ilolles-street. 
In No. 16, 
Lord Byi’on 
was bom. 


w.S.b % 

“I 

i-H « c !3 

I-I c «s ■< 


Site of Leicester House. 

The “ Pouting-place " of two Princes 
of W ales. 

J I_I I_I I— 

To Piccadilly. N. To Covent-gardeii. 


r 

Alhambra — Tum¬ 
bling and Music 
Performances. 
Site of John Hun¬ 
ter’s house and 
museum. 

Sablonniere Hotel. 
In northern half 
Hogarth lived. 
Gi’een-street. In 
No. 11 lived 

St. Martin’s-court. Woollett the en- 

Sir Isaac Newton’s house and graver, 

observatory. 


Joshua Rey¬ 
nolds’s house, 
now Messrs. Put- 
lick & Simpson’s 
auction rooms. 


Haymarket. 


LEICESTER 
SQUARE. 
W. Built 1670—1690. 

















XXXII,—PRINCIPAL SQUARES, 


305 


<D 

C? 

•4^ 

u 

«2 

« 

O 

o 

H 


SoliO Bazaar, es¬ 
tablished by Mr. 
Trotter. 


House of Sir Jos. 
Banks and of 
Kobert Brown, 
botanist. 


SOHO SQUARE. 

W. Built 1670—1690. E, 
Statue of Charles II. 

S. 

-—I I-1 I-1 1— 


Whole south side 
originally occupied 
by 

Monmouth House. 


Vi 

I 

'3 

xn 

X/i 

Site of pulled down 

Bedford House, tS in 1800. 
-1 ‘ I- 

N. 


No. 6 was Isaac 
Disraeli’s, the 
author. 

. 


Statue of C. J. Fox, 
by 

Sir R. Westmacott. 
W. E. 

BLOOMSBURY 
SQUARE. 

Built 1690—1710. 


Site of Loi’d 
Mansfield’s house, 
destroyed in riots 
of 1780. 


S. 

—I r 


X 
















”<2 
o 

O 

W CO . 

'2 § S 

^ a.s 


W S 


-M 03 
CO S 

’i j 

H Pm 


Opera 

Covent Garden. 


□ 


Floral Hall. 


King-street. Built by 


Church of St. Paul’s, 
Covent Garden, 
built by Inigo 
Jones. 


Henrietta-street. 


N. 


Inigo Jones 


Bedford Hotel. 


COVENT GARDEN 


11 i 

p* O HH 


to' 


w. 


MARKET. 

Built 1630—1642. 

S. 


E. 


o 

pq 

Great Kussell-st. 


JIL 


n r 


^ o H CO ^ 

Cm O • ^ C2 S 

O ^ QD O ^ M 

ojsaSoQcS'fl 


CO 0 

A <?5 

C 

C -»-» 

p.“ 

52 
S bo 

53 a 


New Flower 
Market. 


m 


Great Queen-st. 
Newcastle House at 
corner. Here lived 
Lord Chancellors 
Somers, Cowper, 
and Harcourt, and 
the Minister Duke 
of Newcastle. 
Lindsey House, 
(with 2 vases),built 
by Inigo Jones. 

Duke-street. 


r" 



:3 

o 



1 

S 


d 

u 

.s 



j2 

'd 

a> 

Whetstone 

'o 

K 

A 

Park. 



xn 




1 

1 




N. 



LINCOLN’S-INN 

FIELDS. 

W. 

Lord Wm. Russell 
beheaded in centi’e. 


E. 


Built 1619-1636. 


: 


Stone 

buildings. 


Lincoln’s Inn Hall, 
P. Hardwick, Arct. 


S. 


To Lincoln’s Inn. 


1 I -1 r 

Royal College of Surgeons. 

Here stood Sir William Davenant’s Theatre. 




















XXXIT.—PRINCIPAL SQUARES. 


307 


National Gallery of Paintings. 
Wilkins, archt. 


<0 

a 

cS 

01 

'ia 










Church of 
St. Martin’s-in-the 
Fields. 
Gibbs, archt. 


Pall-mall East. 


College of 
Physicians. 


Union Club. 


Cockspur-street. 


□ □ 

Statue of 
George IV., 
by Chau trey, 

TRAFALGAR SQUARE. 

Built 1829—1850. 

The Fountains, of Peterhead 
Granite. 


To the Strand. 


□ 

£ ^ 

2 £=“ 
CL (Ji 

zn* 

P 


w 


□ 

mao 

3 


Morley’s Hotel. 


■ ^ 

c S 2 

o P 
o *-• 


Char. Cross branch 
of Gen. Post Office. 
Letters received later 
than at other offices. 


Nelson 
Column. 

LajUdseer’s * Electric Telegraph 

Lions. Office (distinguished by a ball 
at top), communicating with 
all parts of Europe, open night 
and day for messages. 


+ 

Statue of Charles I. by Le Sceur. 
Site of Queen Eleanor’s Cross. 
Place of execution of Regicides. 


Whitehall. 














308 


XXXIII,—ENVIRONS OF LONDON. 


XXXIII.-'ENVIRONS OF LONDON. 

Slight Hints about Places near London which a Stranger 

should sec. 

Windsor Castle, by Great Western Railway from Paddington, or by 
South Western Railway from Waterloo Station. Time —1 hr. 5 or 
10 min. The state apartments are open gratis to the public on 
Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays, by the Lord Chamber¬ 
lain’s tickets, to be obtained in London (gratis) of Messrs. Colnaghi, 
14, Pall-mall East; of Mr. Mitchell, 33, Old Bond-street; and of 
Mr. Wright, CO, Pall-mall; of whom also Guide-books may be ob¬ 
tained, for one penny each, and at the Lord Chamberlain’s office, 
Windsoi’, from 1 to 3. The hours of admission are—from 1st April 
to 31st October, between 11 and 4; and from 1st November to 31st 
March, between 11 and 3. They are not shown when the Queen is 
in residence. Observe, The Armoury full of valuable armour and 
interesting historic relics; St. George’s Hall; the Waterloo Hall 
with portraits of Sovereigns, Statesmen, and Generals concerned in 
the great war against Bonaparte—the unrivalled Vandyks’ and 
superb Rubens’, &c., &c. 

Within the Castle walls is the Chapel Royal, open 12 to 4 gratis 
—one of the most elegant Perp. Gothic edifices in the world. 

. Nothing can surpass the grandeur of the choir, hung round with 
the banners, helmets, and insignia of the Knights of the Garter. It 
is lighted by a modern E. window of good painted glass, beneath 
which is a carved marble reredos.—a memorial to the Prince 
Consort. See also the monument of Princess Charlotte (an inferior 
work of Wyatt), of Edward IV., in Gothic iron-work, wronght by 
Quintin Matsys—more probably by an English smith. Many of the 
wall paintings of chantries and chapels are old and curious. Here 
is the grave of Henry VI. See also the view from the Castle Tei'race 
—the Long Walk and Windsor Park. The Inns at Windsor are 
the White Hart (good) and the Crown. 

When the state apartments are closed owing to H.M.’s occupation 
and residence, the stranger will yet find much to admire in the gran¬ 
deur of the exterior of the Castle, the views from the Terrace, and the 
superb Chapel. Ilalf-a-day may be pleasantly spent in a drive or 
walk along the Long Walk through the park and forestto he beau¬ 
tiful artificial lake called Virginia Water, 7 miles from Windsor. 
The Wheatsheaf is a good little inn and its garden opens directly on 
the lake. The walk along it to the Ruins brought from the 
neighbourhood of Carthage; and the view of the Queen’s Frigate; 
of the Swiss Cottage, &c., on the opposite bank, are very pleasing. 
There is a shorter road to return by Bishopsgate, 4 miles. 

Strangers should not neglect to visit also 

Eton College, Chapel, and Playing Fields, ^ mile from W^indsor, 
connected with it by a bridge over the Thames, the nursery of the 
statesmen, warriors, and gentlemen of England for two centuries. 

Hampton Court, Palace, and Gardens, by South-Western Railway 
three-quarters of an hour distant from Waterloo Station. The state 
apartments. Gallery of Paintings, Mantegna's Cartomis, and Wolsey’s 
noble Gothic Hall hung with tapestries, are open gratuitously to the 
public every day except Friday (when they are closed to be cleaned), 


XXXIII.—ENVIRONS OF LONDON. 


309 


from 10 a.m. until 6 {Sundays from 2 to 6), from tlic 1st of April to 
the 1st of October, and the remainder of the year from 10 until 4. 
See the Gardens, Avenues, and Terrace walk by the Thames. The 
Vine, in the_ Private Garden, and the Maze, in the Wilderness, are 
open every day until sunset; for these a small fee is required by the 
gardeners who show them. The chestnut avenue in Bu-diey Park in 
the month of May is an attractive sight. Inns.—The King’s Arms, 
the Mitre, and the Greyhound. Catalogues of the pictures may be 
had in the Palace. 

Crystal Palace, at Sydenham, erected 1853-4, atacostof £1,450,000. 
The expenses have been £6^,000 a year. Trains from London Bridge 
and Victoria Station, Pimlico, and fi’om Ludfiate Hill and Victoria 
Stations of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, to the High 
Level Station of the Crystal Palace, every ^ hour. 'The inspection 
of the interior will furnish occupation for 3 or 4 hours. Concert 
every day. The exterior, gardens and waterworks, alone will repay 
a visit. Open daily. Is.; Saturdays, 25. 6c?.; Children,!.?. Queen’s 
Hotel, Upper Norwood, is a quiet and comfortable family residence. 

Hampstead and Highgate, the two companion hills north of London, 
are pleasant places in themselves, and afford excellent views of 
London. Hampstead Heath was purchased, 1870, for 47,000?. from 
the lord of the manor, to be devoted entirely to the use of the public. 
Highgate Cemetery deserves a visit. Coleridge is buried in it. 
See Cemeteries. 

Wimbledon Common, 1 mile from Putney or Wimbledon Stations of 
South Western Railway. Early in July the Meetings of the National 
Rifle Association and the Volunteer Reviews take place here. 

Haerow-on-the-Hill, 10 miles N.W. of London by London and N.W. 
Railway, llg miles. Trains in half an hour. Station 1^ mile fi'om 
the Church. Harrow is one of the most beautiful spots near London. 
Seated on the top of an isolated hill, its spire is a landmark far 
and wide, it enjoys a wondei’fully extensive panorama, the only 
defect of which is the absence of water from the prospect. Harrow 
is chiefly remarkable as the seat of the 2nd great Public School of 
England. The chief houses are the residences of the masters, clus¬ 
tering round the school buildings. These are partly modern, but 
tbe old schoolroom is preserved, on whose panels are cut the names 
of Byron, Robert Peel, Sheridan, and 100 other distinguished names. 
See the Cliayel, an elegant gothic edifice by G. G. Scott; windows 
with modern glass; the School Library next it, decorated with por¬ 
traits of Vaughan, Longley, and other distinguished masters; of 
Byron (by West, not good), Peel, Palmerston, &c. Besides books, 
it contains the collections of Egyptian antiquities given by Sir 
Gardner Wilkinson, of minerals, pre.?ented by Mr. Ruskin. Visit 
the Churchyard, from which the view is best seen. Observe the flat 
tomb under the elms (Peachey’s) on which Byi’on u.sed to lie and 
muse. The church, in the enti'ance of which his natural daughter 
Allegra is buried. 

Sr. Alban’s Abbey, 21 miles north of London (trains from Euston- 
square, L. and N. W. Railway, in 1^ hour), a very fine Early Norman 
church, of great length. Tower, perhaps Saxon; shrine of Duke 
Humphrey. In S't. Michael’s Church, about 1 mile from the abbey, 
the great Lord Bacon is buried. Here is a statue of him sitting. 
See also the Roman walls of Verulam. 

At Chiswick, 5 miles W. of Hyde Park Corner, is the Villa of the 
Duke of Devonshire, aud the Experimental Garden of the Horti- 


310 


XXXIII.—ENVIRONS OF LONDON. 


cultural Societf. Pope lived in Mawson’s-biiildings 1716—17, 
where he worked on his Homer, &c. Here his father died. 
Hogarth’s residence on the terrace and the grave of his dog Pompey 
in the garden. 

DULWICH GALLERY, at Dulwich, 5 m. from Waterloo 
Bridge, is open every day except Sundays. Hours from 
10 to 5. You can reach it by omnibus from Charing Cross 
and the Elephant and Castle in Lambeth; also from London 
Bridge, Charing Cross, or Victoria Stations, by Chatham and 
Dover Railway. This collection was formed by Mens. 
Desenfans for Stanislas Augustus, K. of Poland; but the 
king dying before the pictures could be delivered, they were 
thrown upon Desenfans’ hands, who sold some of them, but 
left the greater part, at his death (1807), to Sir Francis 
Bourgeois, R.A. He, acting on the advice of John P. 
Kemble, bequeathed (1811) the Pictures, 354 in number, to 
the College, 10,000Z. to erect and keep in repair a building 
for their reception, and 2000?. to provide for the care of 
the pictures. 

God’s Gift College, at Duhvich, was erected, 1619, by 
letters patent of James I. by Edward Alleyn, keeper of the 
bears to the King, actor and rival of Richard Bui’badge. The 
present Gallery attached to the College was built in 1812, 
from the designs of Sir John Soane. The Murillos and 
Cuyps, and Dutch paintings in general, are especially fine. 
Observe — 

Mijriixo : the Flower Girl, No. 248; Spanish Boys, Nos. 283 and 284; 
the Madonna del Rosario, No. 341; Meeting of Jacob and Rachel, No. 
294.—Cuvp (in all 19): a Landscape, No. 68; Banks of a Canal, No. 76; 
a Landscape, No. 169, the finest of the 19; Ditto, No. 192; Ditto, No. 239; 
Ditto, No. 163.— Teniers (in all 21); a Landscape, No. 139; a Land¬ 
scape, with Gipsies, No. 165; the Chaff Cuttei’, No. 185 (fine).— Hobbema : 
the Jlill, No. 131.— Rembrandt : Jacob’s Dream, No. 179; a Girl leaning 
out of a Window, No. 206.— Rubens: Samson and Dalilah, No. 168; 
Mars, Venus, and Cupid, No. 351 (the Mars a portrait of Rubens himself 
when young); Maria Pypeling, the Mother of Rubens, No. 355 .—A''an 
Dyck : Charity, No. 124; Virgin and Child, No. 135; Philip, 5th Earl of 
Pembroke (half-length). No. 214; “ The head is very delicate; the hand 
effaced by cleaning.”— Wmgen; Susan, Countess of Pembroke, No. 134; 
“ quite mined by cleaning.” —iraa^m.—WouwERMANS: View on the Sea 
Shore, No. 93; a Landscape, No. 173; Ditto, No. 228.— Berghem : a Land¬ 
scape, No. 200; Ditto, No. 209.— Both: a Landscape, No. 36.— Velas¬ 
quez : Prince of Spain on Horseback, No. 194; Philip IV. of Spain 
(three-quarters). No. 309 ; Head of a Boy, No. 222.— Adrian Brouw er : 
Interior of a Cabaret, No. 54.—A. Ostade : Boors Merry-making, No. 
190; “ of astonishing depth, clearness, and warmth of colour.”— Waagen. 
— Karel du Jardyn: the Farrier’s Shop, No. 229.— Vander Weref: 
the Judgment of Paris, No. 191. —Van Huysum: Flowers in a Vase, 
No. 121; Flowers, No. 140.— Pynaker: a Landscape, No. 150.— Wat¬ 
teau: le Bal Champetre, No. 210.— Titian : Europa, a Study, No. 230. 
—P. Veronese : St. Catherine of Alexandria, No. 268; a Cardinal, No. 
333.— Guercino: the Woman taken in xVdulteiy, No. 348.— Annibal 


XXXIIl.—ENVIRONS OF LONDON. 


311 


Carracci: the Adoration of the Shepherds, No. 349.— Guido: Europa, 
No. 259; Martyrdom of St. Sebastian, No. 339; St. John the Baptist 
Preaching in the Wilderness, No.331 (fine).— Caravaggio: the Lock¬ 
smith, No. 299.— Claude : Embarkation of Sa. Paula from the Port 
of Ostia, No. 270.—S. Rosa: a Landscape, No. 220; Soldiers Gambling, 
No. 271.—G. Poussin : a Landscape, No. 257.—N. Poussin : the Inspi¬ 
ration of the Poet, No. 295; the Nursing of Jupiter, No. 300; the 
Triumph of David, No. 305; the Adoration of the Magi, No. 291 ; 
Rinaldo and Armida, No. 315 (fine).— Francesco Mola : St. Sebastian, 
No. 261.— Gainsborough : Mrs. Sheridan and Mrs. Tickell (full-lengths, 
very fine). Mrs. Sheridan was Maria Linley, the first wife of R. B. She¬ 
ridan, the dramatist. No. 1.— Opie : Portrait of Himself, No. 3.— Sir T . 
Lawrence : Portrait of William Linley (near No. 222). 

The Mrs. Siddons and his own Portrait, by Sir Joshua, are inditferent 
duplicates of the well-known originals in the Grosvenor Gallery and the 
Queen’s Galleiy at Windsor. 

In the College and Master’s apartments are the following 
interesting portraits, partly bequests of Cartwright, an actor, 
1687 

Edward Alleyn, the founder, full-length, black dress, but much in¬ 
jured. Richard Burbadge, master, “a small closet-piece.” Nat Field, 
the poet and actor, “ in his shirt, on a board.” Tom Bond, the actor. 
Richard Perkins, the actor, three-quarters, long white hair. Cartwright 
(senior), one of the Prince Palatine’s players. Cartwright (junior), an 
actor, in a black dress, with a great dog. Michael Drayton, the poet, 
“ in a black frame.” Lovelace, the poet, by Dobson (fine). Lovelace’s 
Althea, with her hair dishevelled. John Greenhill, “ the most promising 
of Lely’s scholars ” ( Walpole) , by himself. 

In the College is preserved Philip Henslowe’s Diary and 
Account-book, a valuable document in illustration of the 
drama and stage in the time of Queen Elizabeth. The 
Revenue of Dulwich College has increased to about 15,000?. 
a-year, of which two-thirds go to the support of the School, 
and the rest in eleemosynary dispositions. 

The Neiv School on Dulwich Common, | m. from the 
College, is a very handsome edifice of red brick aud terra¬ 
cotta, with much enrichment, in the ornamental, Italian style 
of the 13th century, erected 1866-70, from designs of Charles 
Barry, Jun., at a cost of more than 100,000?. It consists of 
3 blocks; in the centre, the Common Hall, Lecture Room, 
&c.; the S. wing the Upper School; the N. wing the Lower, 
connected by a cloister. It will receive 700 Boys. 

GREENWICH PARK AND HOSPITAL (5 miles from 
Charing Cross), by Greenwich Railway from Charing Cross 
or London Bridge Stations, or by steamer, one hour, from 
Hungerford or London Bridge; by omnibus from Charing 
Cross. 

Greenwich Hospital and Hall are described in Section xxiii. 

This ancient royal park, of 174 acres, extends from the high 


312 


XXXIII.—ENVIRONS OF LONDON. 


ground of Blackheath clown to Greenwich Hospital, agree¬ 
ably diversified with hill and dale. ‘‘One Tree Hill” and 
another eminence on which the Royal Observatory is erected, 
command a noble view of London and the river Thames. 
The Park of the Royal manor of Greenwich was planted, 
much as we now see it, in the reign of Charles II. Le Notre, 
it is said, was the artist employed; but his name does not 
occur in the accounts. The Observatory was established in 
the I’eign of Charles II. : Flamsteed, Halley, and Bradley, 
were the first three Astronomers Royal. The older portion 
of the building was erected from the designs of Wren. The 
lower portion of the tower is the residence of Mr. Airy, the 
present Astronomer Royal. “Greenwich Time,” known all 
over the world, is marked eveiy day at 1 o’clock, by the 
dropping of a black ball about six feet in diameter, sur¬ 
mounting the easternmost turret of the old building, and 
acting in instantaneous communication with the offices in 
London to the Electric Telegraph. Strangers are not ad¬ 
mitted to the Observatory, the Astronomical, Magnetical, 
and Meteorological observations conducted in the rooms 
requiring silence and quiet. The scientific instruments and 
apparatus are the most perfect the world can produce; such 
are the Transit Cii’cle, Sheepshank's and Schuckburgh’s 
Equatorials, Reflex Zenith tube, Altazimuth, &c. Here 
chronometers are tested by baking in an oven and by freez¬ 
ing in ice. Departments are also devoted to magnetic expe¬ 
riments ; testing the terrestrial galvanic currents ; to Meteo¬ 
rology, &c. The salary of the Astronomer Royal is 800Z. a 
year, and the whole Observatory is maintained at about 4000^. 
a year. A trip down the river to Greenwich, a visit to Green¬ 
wich Hospital, a stroll in Greenwich Pai’k, and a dinner 
afterwards of fish, not forgetting white halt, the special pro¬ 
duction of the Thames between this and Blackwall, at the 
Trafalgar or Ship Hotel, will be found a delightful way of 
passing an afternoon. 

WooLWioii Arsenal, by North Kent Railway from London Bridge'or by 
Blackwall Railway to Blackwall Pier, and thence bySteanier; or by 
Steamer from llungerford or London Bridge, direct to Woolwich. 
The Arsenal is close to Woolwich Arsenal Station. It is shown by 
tickets only—on Tuesday and Thursday 10 to 11^ a.m., aud 2 to 4^ 
p.m., to be obtained from the War Office, Pall Mall. 

This is, perhaps, the largest depot of military stores in the world, 
including all things necessary to equip armies and fortresses. Here 
are also the most extensive workshops, furnaces, forges, for the weld¬ 
ing of cannon, casting and filling of shells, preparation of bullets 
(Schneider), cartridge (Boxer’s), fuses, rockets, torpedos, chilled 
iron shells (Palliser’s), &c. The machinery of the Laboratory and 
the workshops excels, in extent and perfection, any existing in the 


XXXIII.—ENVIRONS OF LONDON. 


313 


world beside. The Arsenal is 4 miles in circuit, contains 20 steam- 
engines, 12 furnaces, 20 steam-hammers, and employs 10,000 persons, 
at times 14,000. 

On Woolwich Common, near the Royal Artillery Barracks and 
Military Academy, is the Rotunda, or Royal Mxlitary Repository 
(open daily to the public, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.), containing a museum 
of ancient arms and armour, models of Batterues, Artillery, Vessels, 
Barracks, various Forts, Towns, Rock of Gibraltar, Lines of Torres 
Vedras, &c. In front of the Artillery Barracks is the Trophy Gun 
(16 ft. 4 in. long), taken at Bhurtpoor. Made for the Emperor 
Aurengzebe, 1677. Also 4 Florentine cannon, 1750. The best way 
of seeing Woolwich and its curiosities is to obtain the escort of au 
Artillery officer. The Ordnance Stores are valued at six millions, 
and of this, the chief part is deposited at Woolwich. Everything 
necessary to equip an army is here provided in readiness: a siege 
train of 105 guns, and 750 rounds for each. 


KEW BOTANICAL GARDENS, 5 miles W. from Hyde 
Park Corner, on the road to Richmond. 

Kew Royal Botanic Gardens are open to the public every day from 
1 till dark; Sundays 2 to 6. They may be reached by S.W. Rail, 
1st, from Waterloo—to Chiswick Station, whence it is J mile walk 
over the Bridge to the Chief Entrance on Kew Green; 2nd, by 
S.W. Railway, Richmond branch:—to Kew Gardens Station, oppo¬ 
site New Entrance to Gardens, on the road from Kew to Richmond. 
Another way of reaching Kew is by one of the Richmond or Kew 
Bridge omnibuses that leave Piccadilly every \ hour—fare 1«. 


The Gardens, containing in the open air or under glass the 
plants, flowers, and vegetable curiosities of all countries, 
were laid out under the direction of the late Sir W. J. 
Hooker, the Botanist, and are now under the management 
of his accomplished son, Dr. Jos. Hooker. Sir W. Hooker’s 
Handbook may be purchased at the Gardens, price Qd. The 
entrances are on Kew Green, by very handsome gates, de¬ 
signed by Decimus Burton, or by the New Cmiiberland Gate, 
close to the S. W. Railway Station. Visitors are obliged to 
leave baskets and parcels with the porter at the gate. 

The gardens are 75 acres in extent. They are beautifully 
laid out with fine and rare trees, flower-beds, a pinetum, &c. 
A new Range of Hothouses replaces the old Stoves, ex¬ 
pressly designed for tender Palms, with a tank for the Victoria 
lily; one wing is devoted to tropical plants, orchids, pitcher- 
plants, and is filled with the rarest exotics. The Palm House 
is 362 ft. long, 100 ft. wide, 64 ft. high, and cost nearly 
30,000^. Some of the Palms have already reached the 
highest span of the roof. The Cocoa-nut, Mango, and the 
Banana readily bear their fruit, and the requisite moisture 
is distributed through six well-arranged spray jets, dis- 


314 


XXXITI.—ENVIRONS OF LONDON. 


tributing a shower 12 ft. diameter. The Fern-houses contain 
600 species, including Tree and Tropical Ferns. Among the 
hothouses—-those devoted to Cactuses are unrivalled for 
the rarity and variety of their contents. 

The Winter Garden, or Temperate House, is a Great 
Conservatory, 583 feet long, covering If acre, and is twice 
the size of the Palm House. It forms an era in Horticul¬ 
ture; near it a lake of 5 acres expands. The Arhoretunn 
now extends from the Temperate House to the Pagoda. 
The RocTcery is planted with 600 Alpine plants. Improve¬ 
ments are made every year, and the Gardens are receiving 
yearly extensions. The Pinetum has been augmented. At 
Kew Cinchona plants have been reared in large quantities for 
India, to furnish quinine, which has hitherto been brought 
from Peru and cost the East India Government 40,000X a 
year ! The visitors to the Gardens in one year amount to 
five or six hundred thousand, chiefly for recreation and 
fresh air, but many botanical students take lodgings in Kew 
to prosecute their studies. 

The Museum of Economic Botany, formed by Sir W. 
Hooker, is filled with vegetable products, useful in the arts 
and manufactures, most instructive and interesting. The 
Herbaria or dried plants from all quarters of the world, are 
more extensive than any yet brought together; they include 
those of the old East India Company. The Arboretum and 
Pleasure Grounds are beautifully kept, and most creditable 
to the present Director. In short, London and its neigh¬ 
bourhood affords no more pleasing sight. The Gardens are 
open daily. The salary of the Director is 800^. a year. 

KICHMOND PARK, 9 miles from London, 3 miles from 
Kew, and 1 from the Richmond Station of the London and 
South Western Railway, 15 or 20 trains daily from Waterloo. 
The Park of the Royal manor of Richmond owes much of 
its present beauty to King Charles I. and King George II. 
The principal entrance is close to the Star and Garter Hotel. 
Enter by this gate, keep to the right for about a mile along 
the terrace and past Pembroke Lodge, the residence of Earl 
Russell. The view begins a few yards within the gate, is 
stopped by the enclosure of Pembroke Lodge, but soon re¬ 
appears. The view overlooking the Thames is not to be 
surpassed, and the forest scenery of the Park itself is charm¬ 
ing. 

An hour or two also may be agreeably spent in a walk 
along either bank of the Thames, to TwicTcenham. There 
are agreeable foot-paths on both banks, crossing the river by 


XXXIIL—ENVIRONS OF LONDON. 


315 


Richmond bridge or the ferry, from Twickenham to Ham. 
Many will prefer to make the excursion by water. Rowing 
boats abound. At Twickenham see Orleans House, residence 
formerly of Louis Philippe, now of his son the Due d’Aumale, 
the church in which Pope, the poet, is buried—of Pope’s 
villa nothing remains but the site and grotto. Half-mile 
higher up is the far-famed Strawberry Hill, now the residence 
of Countess Waldegrave. 

The Thames below Richmond to Kew, presents attractive 
scenery ; the descent may be made in steamer or row-boat. 
An afternoon at Richmond and Twickenham, and a dinner 
afterwards at the huge hotel, the Star and Garter (rebuilt 
1866 at a cost of-190,000^.), or at the Castle, near the bridge, 
will make a capital pendant to a like entertainment at 
Greenwich. 



INDEX. 


The figures followed by an asterisk (*) refer to the pages of “ Intro¬ 
ductory Information ” at the commencement of the volume. 


A 

Abney Park Cemetery, 134 
Academy, Royal, 195 

-- of Music, 198 

“ Achilles,” Statue, 26 ; 266 
Addison, Joseph, last moments 
of, 20 

Adelphi Theatre, 183 
Adelphi, 201 
Admiralty, the, 54 
Agricultural Hall, and Cattle 
Show, 72 

Alban’s (St.) Abbey, 309 
Alban’s (St.), 129 
Albert Hall of Arts, 178 
Albert Memorial, 28 
Aldersgate-street, Plan of, 292 
Aliens, 51* 

All Saint’s, Margaret Street, 129 
Almack’s, 191 
Alsatia, 263 

Amphitheatre, Albert, 178 
• Anne, Queen, 4; and her hus¬ 
band, 8 

Antiquaries, Society of, 194; library 
and museum 195 
Antiquities in London, 48* 
Apostolic Church (Irvingite), 129 
Apothecaries’ Hall, 247 
Apsley House, pictures, &c., 10 
Archaeological and antiquarian ob¬ 
jects, 48* 

Architects, Institute and Museum, 
200 

Architects’ Works in London, list 
of, 47* 

Arlington-street, 273 
Armourers’ Company, 248 
Army, British, &c., 54 
Army and Navy Club, 228 
Artillery Company &Ground, 249 
Art (Galleries of), 45* 


Berkeley 

Arts, Society of, Adelphi, 201 
Artists’ Studios, 51* 

Ashburnham House, Westmin¬ 
ster, 109 

Asiatic Society, 202 
Astley’s Theatre, 189 
Astronomical Society, 195 
Athenaeum Club, 231 
Audit Office, 55 

Austin Friars—Dutch Church, 132 
B. 

Bacon (Lord), whei’c bom, 250 
Bank of England, 60; weighing 
and printing machines, 61, 
62 

Bank Parlour, 61 

Bancroft, Francis; glazed coffin 
of, 121 

Barber Surgeons’ Hall, 248 
Barclay and Perkins’s brewery, 
76 

Baring, picture gallery, 24 
Bartholomew the Great (St.) 

church of, 117; Fair, 74 
Bartholomew’s (St.) Hospital, 215 
lecturers, &c., 215, 216 
Bath House, its fine collection of 
pictures, 21 

Baths aud Wash-houses, 225 
Battersea Park, 34 
Bavarian Chapel, 131 
Baynard Castle, 294 
Bayswater, origin of name, 294 
Becket (St. Thomas) where born 
250 

Bedlam, 216 
Begging impostors, 226. 
Belgrave-square, Plan of, 301 
Belgravia, 13* 

Berkeley-square Plan of, 302 





318 


INDEX, 


Bermondsey 
Bermondsey, 17* 

Bethlehem Hospital, 216 
Bible Society, 226 
Billingsgate Market, 74 
Birth-places of eminent persons, 
250 

Bishopsgate-street, Plan of, 293 
Blackfriars Bridges, 44 
Blind, Schools and Asylums for 
the, 225 

Bloomsbury-square, Plan of, 305 
Blucher, 4 

Boar’s Head in EastCheap,2l*,263 
Bonner’s, Bp., Coal Hole, 283 
Botanical Gardens, Regent’s-park, 
32; Kew, 313 

Bow-street, Coveut-garden, 288 
Bow Church, and Bow bells, 123, 
124 

Breweries, 76 

Bride’s (St.) Church, Fleet-street, 
124; source of AVren’s idea of 
its construction, 124 
Bridewell, 147 

Bridges over the Thames; London, 
43; South-Eastern Railway 
Bridge, 44 ; Southwark, 44 ; 
Alexandra Bridge, 44; Black¬ 
friars, 44; Hungerford, 44; 
Waterloo, 45; AVestminster, 
45; Lambeth, 46; V auxhall, 46; 
Pimlico Railway Bridge, 46; 
Pimlico Suspension Bridge, 
46 

Bridgewater House and Picture 
Gallery, 17, 18 

British Museum, admission to the 
Reading Room, 149; ground 
plan, 151; origin and progress 
of the Museum, 150; antiqui¬ 
ties, 152; Townley collection, 

152; Lycian Room, 152 ; Egyp¬ 
tian antiquities, 152; the 
Rosetta Stone, 153; Assy¬ 
rian antiquities, 153; Elgin 
marbles, 154 ; Phigalian 
marbles, 156; .®gina marbles, 
166; Bodroum marbles, 156; 
Farnese marbles, 156; Minor 
Egyptian antiquities, 156; 
vases and Etruscan Rooms, 

, 157; Bronze Room, 157; Port¬ 
land Vase and Gems, 158 ; 
Medal Room, 158; British and 
Medieval Room, 158; the 
library of printed books, 159; 
reading room regulations, 
161; manuscripts, 161; plan 


Charitable 

of Reading-Room, 162; Print 
Room, 163; natural history 
collections, 163; zoology, 164; 
mineralogy and geology, 165; 
fossil organic remains, 165; 
northern zoological gallery, 
166; insects and Crustacea, 
166; botanical collection, 167 ; 
portraits, 167; miscellaneous' 
curiosities, 167 

Brompton Cemetery, 134; “ Boil¬ 
ers,” 173 

Brooks’s Club, 229 
Brunei, Sir I. K., 46 
Buckingham Palace, 1; pictures, 2 
Budge Row, 245 

Bunhill Fields Burial Ground, 
134; its chief tenants, 135 
Bunyan, 135 

Burial places of eminent persons, 
252 

Burials in London, 132,133 
Burlington House, 58_ 

Byron (Lord), where ijoin, 251 
Byi’on, AVm., 5th Lord; his duel 
with Mr. Chaworth, 268 

C. 

CAn.s, regulations and fares, 34* 
Calendar of Events, 261 
Camden (AVilliam), born, 250 
Camelford House, 290 
Cannon Street Railway Terminus, 
71 

Canova, anecdote of, 45 
Canterbuiy, Archbishop, residence 
of at Lambeth Palace, 9 
Carlton Club, 229; Junior, 232 
Carpenters’ Hall, 249 
Cai’toons of Raphael, 177 
Cattle Market, 72 
Cavendish-square, Plan of, 304 
CiBsar, Sir Julius; his curious 
monument and epitaph, 120 
Cemeteries and Burial Grounds, 
132—135 

Chancery, Inns of, 145 
Chancery-lane, Plan of, 286 
Chapel Royal, St. James’s, & 
Chapels, Foreign, 131, 132 
Chapter House, Westminster, 109 
Charing Cross, 261; to AVest- 
minster Abbey, Plan of, 289 
Charing Cross Hospital, 222 
Charing Cross Railway Station, 71 
Charitable Institutions and Hospi¬ 
tals, 214—226 



INDEX. 


319 


Charles 

Charles I. parting with his child¬ 
ren, 4; execution, 6; the 
Charing Cross statue, 265 
Charles II., born, 4; statue, 265 
Charter-House School and Hospi¬ 
tal, 207 

Chatham (Earl of), born, 250 
Chaucer, where born, 250 
Cheapside, 282; Plan of, 283 
Chelsea Hospital, 219 
Chesterfield House, 19 
Chiswick, 309 

Christ’s Hospital, 209; eminent 
scholars, 210; mode of admis¬ 
sion, 211 

Churches and Places of Worship, 
Cathedral and Episcopal, 94— 
129; Dissenting, 129,130; Ro¬ 
man Catholic, 130; Foreign, 
131,132 ; Jews, 132 
Churches of London, 94—132 
“ City,” The, 11* 15*, 16* 

City of London School, 213 
City Halls and Companies, 234— 
250 

City Prison, Holloway, 149 
City Road, 287 
Clement’s Inn, 145 
Clerkenwell 17* ; Sessions House, 
139 

Clothworkers’ Hall, 247 
Clubs and Club Houses, 22*^, 23*, 
227—234 

Coal Exchange, 70; number of 
Seamen employed, 70 
Cockney, origin of the word, 235 
Cold Bath Fields House of Correc¬ 
tion, 148 

College, Heralds’, 198 
College of Physicians, 198 
College of Surgeons, 179, 198 
Colleges and Schools, 203—213 
Colliers, Regulations of the port 
of London relative to, 42 
Colney Hatch Cemetery, 134 
Colonial Office, 49 
Columbia-square and Market, 225 
Commerce of London, 28*, 50 
Commercial building.s, banks, &c., 
60—71 

Commercial Docks, 69 
Companies of London, and their 
Halls, 234—250 
Concerts and Music, 44* 
Conservative Club, 230 
Constitution Hill, 31 
Copenhagen Fields, 72 
Com Exchange, 69 


Dwellings 

Cornhill, description of, 284; Plan 
of, 284 

Cornwallis (Lord), where born, 
251 

Corporation of London, 234—238 
County Courts, 138 
Court (Presentation at), 4 
Courts of Law and Justice, 136— 
140 

Coutts’s Fountain, 32; Model 
Lodging houses, 225 
Covent Garden Market, 75 ; Plan 
of, 806 

Covent Garden Opei’a House, 187 
Cowley, whex’e born, 250 
Cowper, the poet, suicidal inten¬ 
tions of, 50 

Cremorne Gardens, 30*, 44* 
Cricket, 32* 

Crimean Memorials, 266 
Cromwell, Oliver, last moments of, 
135; his inauguration, 137 
Crosby Hall, 249 
Crystal Palace, site of first, 26 
Crystal Palace at Sydenham, 309 
Custom House, 50 

D. 

De Foe, 135, 251 
Deaf and Dumb Asylum, 225 
Debtors’ Prisons, 148 
Deptford, 27* 

Design, Government School of, 
213 

Devonshire House, 13 
Dining and Supperplaces,42*—43* 
Dissenters’ Chapels, 129, 130 
Dividends, payment at Bank, 62 
Docks; West India, East India, 
St. Katherine’s, London, Com¬ 
mercial, Victoria, Surrey, 65 
—69 

Doctors’ Commons, 55—56 
Dogs, Isle of, 27*, 300 
Domesday Book, 59 
Dorchester House, 24 
Downing-street, 47, 48 
Drainage, Main, 79 
Drapers’ Hall and Gardens, 242 
Drawing rooms (Presentation at), 
4,5 

Dreadnought, Seamen’s Hospital- 
Ship, 224 

Drury-lane, Plan of, 285 
Drury-lane Theatre, 188 
Dulwich College and Gallery, 310 
Dwellings for the Poor, 225 





320 


INDEX. 


E. 

East India Docks, 66 
East Indian Museum, 184; Library, 
185 

East London Railway, 47 
Eastern Railway, Great, Termi¬ 
nus, 71 

Electric Telegraph, 33* 

Ellesmere mansion and gallery, 
17 

Embankment, 20*, 41 
Eminent persons; London birth¬ 
places of, 250; burial-places, 
252—255 ; dwelling-places, 

256—261 

Engineers, Civil; Institution of, 
200 

Environs of London, 50*; 308— 
315 

Epsom Races, 32* 

Eton College, 308 
Events, remarkable, 261—265 
Exchange, Royal, 62 
Exchequer, office of the, 49 
Excise Office, 56 
Excursions, 303 
Executions, 147 
Exeter Hall, 191 
Exhibitions, Free, 149—187 
Exhibition of Royal Academy 
of Old Masters, 195 
Exhibitions in general, 44* ; of 
pictures, 45*, 46*. (See Mu¬ 
seums.) 

F. 

Farringdon Market, 75 
Finsbury Park, 34 
Fire Brigade, 140 
Fishmongers’ Hall, 243 
Fish-street-hill, Plan of, 293 
Flaxman Museum, 204 
Fleet Prison, the late, 148 
Fleet-street, Plan of, 281 
Flower Market, Covent Garden, 
75, 186 

Foe, De, 135, 251 
Fogs in Loudon, 10* 

Foreign Churches and Chapels, 
131,132 

Foreign Office, 48; Money, 31* 
Foreigners, Hints to, 30*; Hotels 
for, 40* 

Foundling Hospital, 223; the 
Chapel, 223 

Fox (C. J.), where born, 251 
Fox, Geo., 135 
Franklin Relics, 186 


Gymnasium 

Free Exhibitions. {See Museums. 
Free Hospital, 222 
French Hospice, 222 
French Protestant Churches, 131, 
132 

French Roman Catholic Chapel, 
131 


G. 

Garrick Club, 232; its pictures, 
232, 233 

Geographical Society, 202 
I Geological Society, 192 
Geology (Practical), Museum of, 
186,187 

George’s (St.), Roman Catholic 
Cathedral, 130, 131 
George’s (St.), Church, Hanover- 
square, 128 

George’s (St.), Hospital, 219 
George II. and his Queen, 4, 7; 

junction of their remains, 98 
George III., statue of, 266 
George IV. born, 4; statue of, 216 
German Lutheran and Evangeli¬ 
cal Chapels, 131 ; Hospital, 
226 

Giles, St., Cripplegate, 121 
Globe Theatre, site of, 263 
Goldsmiths’ Hall, 243 
Government Offices and Establish¬ 
ments, 47—60 

Gracechnrch-street, Plan of, 293 
G ray, where bora, 250, 284 
Gray’s Inn and Gardens, 144 
Gi’eat Queen-street, Lincoln’s-inn- 
fields. Plan of, 288 
Greek Chapel, 132 
Green Park, 31; objects to be ob¬ 
served, ib. 

Greenwich Hospital, 220, 311; 
Chapel, &c., 221 

Greenwich Pai'k, and Observatory, 
311,312; Whitebait and Fish 
Dinner. 312 

Gresham, Sir Thomas, 62, 64,120, 
241 

Grocens’ Hall, 241 
Grosvenor House, pictures, &c., 15 
16 

Grosvenor-square, Plan of, 301 
Guards’ Club, 228 
Guildhall, 237 
“ Guildhall Library,” 238 
Guy’s Hospital, 218 
Guy of Warwick, effigy of, 291 
Gymnasium, German, lf 2 




INDEX. 


321 


II. 

IIabeedashees’ Hale, 246 
Halicarnassian Marbles, 166 
Hallowell, Capt., his present to 
Lord Nelson, 114 
Hamilton Place, 272, 273 
Hampstead and Highgate, 309 
Hampton Court, 308 
Hanover-square, Plan of, 303 
Harcourt House, 22 
Harrow-on-the-Hill, 309 
Haymarket Theatre, 188 
Helen’s (St.), Bishopsgate, and its 
interesting monuments, 120, 
121 

Heralds’ College. 198 
Hertford House, and pictures, 22 
Hervey, John, Lord; scene of his 
duel with Pulteney, 31 
Hicks’s Hall, 139 
Highgate Cemetery, 134 
High-street, Southwark, Plan of, 
295 

Highwayman, exploit of a, 17 
Hill’s (Rowland) Chapel, 130 
Hogarth, where born, 251 
Holborn, 278; Plan of, 279 
Holborn Hill Viaduct, 278 
Holdemesse House, 22 
Holford, R. S., Esq., pictures of, 
24 

Holland House, Kensington, 
20 

Home Office, 48 
Hon. Artillery Company, 249 
Holloway City Prison, 149 
Hope, picture gallery, 23 
Horse Guards, 53 
Horsemonger-lane Gaol, 146 
Horticultural Garden and So¬ 
ciety, 202 

Hospitals and Charitable Institu¬ 
tions, 214—226 
Hotels, 38* 

Houses and dwelling-places of 
eminent persons, 256—259 
House of Commons, 39 
House of Correction, 148 
Houses of the Nobility, 9—25 
Houses of Parliament, 35-41; mode 
of admission to hear debates, 
40 

Humane Society, Royal, 224 
Hungerford Bridge, 44 
Hunterian Museum, 179 
Hunting, 33* 

Hyde Park, 25; its attractions, 25, 
26; plan of. 27; mob in, 28 


Kensington 

1 . 

0 

Impeovements, 52* 

India Office, 49; Museum, 16 . * 
Inland Revenue Office, 56 
Inns, 38* 

Inns of Court and Chancery, 140 
—146; their yearly rental, 146 
Institute of Architects, 200 
Institution of Civil Engineers. 200 
Institutions and Societies, 192— 
202 

International Exhibition, plan of, 
203 

Intramural burials, horrors of, 133 
Ironmongers’ Hall, 246 
Irvingite Church, 129 
Italian Opera Houses: Her Ma¬ 
jesty’s Theatre. 187; Covent 
Garden Opera, ib. Lyceum,187 

J. 

James’s (St.) Chuech, Piccadilly, 
126 ; its font by Gibbons, ih. 
James (St.) Garden-street. 129 
James’s (St.) Hall, 42*; 191 
James’s (St.) Theatre, 190 
James’s (St.) Palace, 3; drawing¬ 
rooms, levees, mode of pre¬ 
sentation, 4; Chapel, 5 
James’s (St.) Park, 28; Plan of, 30 
James’s (St.) Square, Plan of, 303 
James’s (St.) Street and its nota¬ 
bilities, 274; Plan of, 275 
Jews’, 16*; Synagogue, Great 
Saint Helens, 132 
Joe’s. 41* 284 

Johnson, Dr., at Thrale’s Brewery 
77; Buildings. 142 
John’s (St.)Gate, Clerkenwell, 261 
Jones (Inigo), where bom, 251 
his Works, 47* 

Jonson (Bpn.). where bom, 250 
Avhere buried, 103 
Junior United Service Club, 228 
J udges, salaries of the, 136 

K. 

Katheetne’s (St.) Docks, 66 
Katherine’s (St.) Hospital, 32 
Kensal Green Cemetery and its 
tenants, 133, 134 
Kensington Palace, 7 
Kensington, South, Museum, 172 
Government School of De¬ 
sign at, 178 

Kensington Gardens and the Ser¬ 
pentine, 34 

Y 




322 


INDEX, 


Kew 

Kew Botanical Gardens, 31.'I 
King’s College and School, 205 
King’s College Hospital, 222 
Kneller, (Sir Godfrey,) his dying 
observation, 111 

L. 

Lame, Charles, ‘ ‘ true works,” 186; 

whe.re lie lived, 258 
Lambeth, 17*; Bridge, 46 
Lambeth Palace, 9, 10 
Langham Place and Church, 277 
Lansdowne House, 16 
Law Courts. (See Westminster 
Hall; Inns of Court, 140) 

Law Courts, New, 136 
Laws relating to Foreigners, 51* 
Leadenhall Market, 75 
Learned Societies and Institu¬ 
tions, 58, 192—203 
Leicester-square, Plan of, 304 
Letters, postage of, 38*. (See Post 
Office.) 

Levees, 5 

Libraries—Brit. Museum, 160 
Art Library of Kefereuce, 178 
City of London, 238 
Indian Library, 185 
Lambeth, 10 

London Library, St. James’s 
Square, 203 

Patent Office Library, 203; 
Sion College, 202 

Lincoln’s Inn, 142; its chapel, 
hall, and library, 143, 144 
Lincoln’s-Inn-fields, Plan of, 306 
Linnsean Society, 195 
Livings, value of^ 94 
Lloyd’s Rooms, 62; Lloyd’s Re¬ 
gister, 63 

Lock Hospital, Chapel, and Asy¬ 
lum, 223 

Lodgings, 38*—41* 

“ Lollards’ Tower,” 9 
London, geographical position of, 
its population, 9*; statistics of 
its supplies of food, sewerage, 
&c., 10* ; its boundaries — 
Westminster, 12*; Tyburnia 
and Belgravia, 13*; Regent’s 
Park, Marylebone and Blooms¬ 
bury, 14* ; “ The City,” 

15*; Spitalfields and Bethnal 
Green, Clerkenwell and Is¬ 
lington, the Surrey side. Shad- 
well and Rotherhithe, 16*; 
bearings of the streets, 17*; 


Marlboiiough House 
its railways, &c., 18*; how 
to see the Meti’opolis, and 
objeots of intei’est on the 
various routes, 19*; the 
Thames, and objects on its 
banks, 25*; general hints 
to strangers, 30*; foreign 
money, opera, races, public 
dinners, sports ; trial by jury, 
31* 33* ; cab fares and regu¬ 
lations, luggage, 34*; omni¬ 
buses, 36* ; hotels and lodg¬ 
ings, 38*; restaurants and 
dining houses, 41*—43* ; sup¬ 
per houses, ib.] amusements 
and objects of interest, 
43* — 48*; revenue of City, 
236; eminent persons born in, 
250. (See also Post Office, Ex¬ 
hibitions. Remarkable Places, 
&c.) 

London and North-Western Rail¬ 
way Station, 70 

London and Suburban Railways, 
52*, 53*, 70, 71 
London, Bishop of, 10 
London Bridge, 20*, 43; passenger 
traffic on, 20* 

London Bridge Railway Station, 
70 

London, Chatham, and Dover 
Termini, 71 

London Docks, 67; the Wine 
Stores, 68 

London Hospital, 222 
l,,on(lon House, 10 
London Institution, 201 
London Library, 201, 202 
London Stone, 48*, 261 
Imndon University, 203 
London Wall, 261 
Lord’s Cricket Ground, 32* 

Lord Mayor’s Show, 235; dinner, 
bill of fare, 237, 238 
Lyceum Theatre, 189 
Lyon’s Inn, 145 

M. 

Magdalen Hospital, 224 
Magnus (St.) Church, London 
Bridge, 125 
Main Drainage, 80 
Manchester House, 22 
Mansion House, the, 235 
Marble Arch, 26 
Markets, 72—76 
Marlborough House, 7 



INDEX. 


323 


Marshalsea 
Marshalsea, site of, 264 
ilartin-in-the-Fields (St.) Clmrch, 
127 ; eminent persons buried 
in, 128 

Martin (John), the painter, 42 
Martin’s (St.) Hall, 190 
Alarylebone (St.) Church, 128 
Mary-le-Bow (St.) Church, Cheap- 
side, 123 

Mary-le-Savoy (St.), Strand, 122 
Mary Woolnoth (St.) Church, 127 
Mary’s (St.) Hospital, 222 
Mary’s (St.) Roman Catholic 
Chapel, 131 
Mendicity Society, 226 
Mercers’ Hall and Chapel, 241 
Merchant Taylors’ Hall, 245 
Merchant Taylors’ School, 211; 
charge for education, 212; 
eminent scholars, 213 
Metropolitan Cattle Market, 72 
Metropolitan Board of Works, 
63* 

Metropolitan Improvements, 52* 
Metropolitan Railway, 53* 
Michael’s, St., Cornhill, 125t; 
Midland Railway Station, 71 
Millbank Prison, 147 
Millwall Docks, 28*, 69 
Milton, where born, 250; lived, 
257; buried, 253 
Mint, the Royal, 57 
Missionaries’ Museum, 187 
Mob of London, 30* 

Model of St. Paul’s, 174 
Model Prison, 148 
Model Lodging Houses, 225 
Money, foreign, 31* 

Money Orders, 51 
Montague House, its portraits and 
miniatures, 15 

Montagu, (Lady Maiy W.), bom, 
251 

Monument, Fish-street Hill, 
239 

Monuments, Public, 265 

To the Prince Consort, 27, 23 
More, (Sir Thomas), where born, 
250; where executed, 92 
Munro Collection, 24 
Museums and Galleries of Art, to 
which admission is free, 149— 
187. British. Museum, 14 9; 
South Kensington, 172 ; Dul¬ 
wich Gallery, 310; Geological, 
186; Missionaries’, 187; Na¬ 
tional Gallery, 167; National 
Portrait Gallery, 177; Soane 


Oxford Street 

Museum, 182; Surgeons’ Col¬ 
lege, 179; United Service, 185; 
Vernon Gallery, 176; Slieep- 
shnnks Collection, 176 ; Tur¬ 
ner Gallery, 170,171; Asiatic, 
202; Architectural, 200; East 
Indian, 184; of Economic Bo¬ 
tany, 314; Patents’ Museum, 
178. 

Musical Performances, 44* 

\ 

N. 

Napoleon’s Will, 56, 57 
National Gallery, Trafalgar- 
sqiiare, 167—171 

Natiiinal Life Boat Institution 
(Royal), 225 

National Portrait Gallery, 177 
N ational Standard Theatre, 190 
Netl’<? 41* y>t4 

Nell Gwynn, 29, 219, 232, 285 
Nelson, Lord, his only interview 
with Wellington, 49 ; Capt. 
Hallowell’s present to him, 
114; column to his memory, 
265; dress worn by him at the 
Battle of Trafalgar, 220; place 
of burial, 114 
New Public Offices, 48 
New River, 78 
New Road, .287 
Newgate Pi’ison, 146 
Newgate-street, Plan of, 291 
Newspapers, 51* 

Norfolk House, and its historical 
records and pictures, 14 
Northern Railway, Great, Ter¬ 
minus, 70 

North London and London and 
North-Western City Termi¬ 
nus, 71 

Northumberland House, 11 ; pic¬ 
tures and objects of interest, 
12 

Norwood Cemetery, 134 
Nunhead Cemetery, 134 


O. 

Old Bailey Sessions House, 138 
Olympic Theatre, 190 
Omnibus Routes, 36* 

Opera Houses, 187, 188 
Overy, St. Mary, 117 
Oxford and Cambridge Club, 232 
Oxford-street, description of, 287 




324 


INDEX, 


P. 

Painter Stainers’ Hall, 249 
Paintings, collections of, 45*, 46* 
9—25 

Palaces of the Sovereign:—Buck¬ 
ingham, 1—3; St. James’s 
3—5; Whitehall, 5—7; Kens¬ 
ington, 7 

Pall Mall, 268; Plan of, 269 
Pancras-in-the-Fields, St., Old 
Church and monuments, 121, 
122; New Church, 128 
Panoramas and Miscellaneous Ex¬ 
hibitions, 44* 

Park Lane, Plan of, 290 
Parks, Palaces, and Public Build¬ 
ings, Office of, 51 

Parks, Gardens, &c., 24*:—Hyde, 
25—28; St. James’s, 2*<—31; 
Green, 31; Kegent’s, ib. ; Plan 
of, 33; Victoria, 32; Battersea, 
34; Finsbur^, 34; Southwark, 
34; Greenwich, 311; llich- 
mond, 314; Kensington, 34; 
Kew, 313 ; Zoological, 191 
Parliament, opening and proroga¬ 
tion of, 38 

Parliament Houses, 35—41 
Passports, 48 
Patents’ Museum, 178 
Paul’s (St.) Cathedral, HI ; 
its history, 112 ; spoliation of 
Wren’s design by James II., 
113 ; monuments, ib. ; com¬ 
pletion of, IIH; dome, 116; 
whispering gallery, &c., 116 
Paul’s (St.) Cliurchyard, 116 
Paul’s (St.) School, 206; eminent 
scholars, ib. 

Paul’s (St.), Covent Garden, 
church and parish register, 
123 

Paymaster General’s Office, 53 
Peabody Gift, 225; Statue, 64 
Peel, Sir Kobert, pictures of, 171; 
death, 23 

Penitentiary and Pentonville 
Prisons, 148 
Penn, where born, 251 
Peter the Great’s Mulberry Tree, 
70; lived, 260 
Peter’s (St.) ad Vincula, 89 
Physicians, College of, 198 
Piccadilly, 270—272; Plan of, 273 
Picton, 114 

Pictures, collections of, public and 
private, 45*, 9—25 
Piers, steamboat, 25* 


Regent’s Park 

Pimlico Bridges, 46 
Places which visitors ought to 
see, 48*—308 -315 
' Connected with remarkable 
events, 261 

Pleasure Seeker’s List, 43*—308— 
315 

Poets’ Comer. 105 
Pool (The), 20*, 27* 

Police Courts, 139 
Police of London, 139 —140 
Polytechnic Institution, 44* 

Pope, where born, 250; where 
buried, 253 

Population of London, 10*, 12* 
Popular preachers, 51* 

Port of London, 28*, 42 
Portland, Duke of, mansion, 22 
Portrait Gallery, National, 177 
Portman-square, Plan of, 302 
Post Office, 51; income and extent 
of the office, i6. ^ money orders, 
ib .; general directions, 52; 
postal regulations, .38* 

Poultry, Plan of the, 283 
Practical Art (Department of), 216 
Prerogative Will Office, 51 
Presentation at Court, 4 
Prince Consort Memorial, 28 , 
Prince of Wales’ residence, 7 
Princess’s Theatre, 189 
Principal London Newspapers,51* 
Prisons, Gaols, &c., 146—149 
Private Collections of Paintings, 
list of. 25 

Privy Council Office, 48 
Probate Office, 56 
Property-Tax Office, 56 
Public Offices, 48 ' 

Pulteney, scene of his duel with 
Lord liervey, 31 

Q. 

Queen’s opening Parliament. 38 
Queen, statues of, 37, 266 
Queen-street (Great), Lincoln’s- 
inn-fields. Plan of, 288 
Queenhithe, 294. 299 

R. 

Races, Epsom and Ascot. 32* 
Railway Stations, 1S*,53*—55*, 
70.71 

Reading Room, British Museum, 
160, 161 

Record Office, 50 
Reform Club, 230 
Regent’s Park, 31; Plan, 33 






INDEX. 


325 


Regent Street 

Regent-street, 23“*, 276; Plan of, 
277 

Remarkable Events, places and 
sites connected with, 261—265 
Residences of Eminent Pertons, 
256—259 

Restaurants, 41*—43* 

Richard Coeur de Lion, statue by 
Marochetti, 266 
Richmond Park, 314 
Rolls Chapel, 59, 286 
Roman Catholic Cathedral and 
Chapels, 130,131 
Roman London, 70 
Rookery, 287 
Rotherhithe, 17* 

Rothschild, Baron Lionel de. Pic¬ 
tures and articles of vertu, 24 
Rothschilds’ Pillar, Royal Ex¬ 
change, 62 
Rotten-row, 26 
Rotunda. Woolwich, 313 
Roubiliac, the Sculptor, 101 
Rowland Hill’s Chapel, 130 
Rotal Acadhmv of Arts, 58,195 
—197 

Royal Academy of Music, 197 
Royal Exchange, 62; Lloyd’s 
Rooms and Register, 62—64 
Royal Humane Society, 225 
Royal Institution of Great Britain, 
200 

Royal Personages, statues of, 
265—266 

Royal Society, 56, 192; its por¬ 
traits, &c., 193 

Royal Society of Literature, 201 

S. 

Saddlers’ Hall, 249 
Sadler’s Wells Theatre, 189 
Salters’ Hall, 246 
Sardinian Chapel, 131 
Saviour’s (St.) Church, 117; ac¬ 
tors and poets buried in, 118 
Savoy, 280, Chapel, 122; Savoy 
Conference, ib. 

School of Design, 213 
Schools and Colleges, 202—213 
Scientific Societies, 192 
Scottish Churches, 130 
Sculpture to be seen, 46*, 47* 
Seamen’s Hospital Ship, 224 
Season in London, 30* 

Selwyn, George, anecdote of, 20, 
229 

Serpentine River, 26 
Sewerage of London, 79 


Sunday Evening Services 
Shakspeare’s Will, 56; his signa¬ 
ture, 238 

Sheepshanks’ pictures, 176 
8i«hts of London, 43*—50* 

Sion College, 202 
Skinners’ Hall, 244 
Smithfield, 73, 261 
Smoke of London, 10* 

Soane Museum, 180 
Societies and Institutions, 192— 
203; Benevolent, 214 
Society of Arts, Adelphi, 201 
Soho-square, Plan of, 305 
Somerset House, 55 
South Kensington Museum, 172; 
Government School of Design 
af, 178 

South Sea House, 293 
Southwark, 17*; Bridge, 44; Park, 
34 

Spanish Chapel, 131 
Spenser, where bora, 250; where 
died, 289 

Spurgeon’s Tabernacle, 51* 
Stables, Koyal, 3 
Stafford House, 13,14 
Stamps and Taxes, office of, 56 
Standard, Cornhill, 284 
Staple Inn, 144 
State Papers, access to, 59 
Stationers’ Hall, 248 
Statistical Society, 202 
Statues, Public, of Royal and 
eminent personage^, 265 
Steamboats on the Thames, 25* 
Steel Yard, site of, 294, 299 
Stephen’s (St.) Church, Walbrook, 
125 ; Chapel, West, 39 
Stephen’s (St.) Church, West¬ 
minster, 129 

St. John’s Gate, Clerkenwell, 261 
Stock Exchange, 64; mode of elec¬ 
tion, &c., 65 

Stow (John), where born, 250 
Strafford (Earl of), where born, 
250; where executed, 93 
Strand, Plan of, 280 
Strangers (Hints to), 30*—34* 
Streets and thoroughfares of Lon¬ 
don; 9*—30*; plans and de¬ 
scriptions of the principal, 267 
—307; number of streets, 267; 
lengths of principal streets, ib. 
in which eminent persons 
have lived, 260 
Studios of Ai’tists, 51* 

Subway, Thames, 47 
Sunday Evening Services, 51* 




326 


INDEX. 


Supper Houses 
Supper Houses, 41*—43* 
Surgeons, College of,t ’.9S; anato¬ 
mical museum, 179 
Surrey Chapel (late Rowland 
Hill’s), 130 
Surrey Theatre, 190 
Sussex, Duke of (the late); library 
and residence, 7 

Sutherland, Duke of, mansion, 13 
Swans on the Thames, 29* 
Swedish Church, 132 
Sydenham (Crystal Palace at), 309 
Sydenham, Dr. 268 
Synagogue, 132 

T. 

Tabard Inn, site of, 261, 295 
Tattersalls’and the Jockey Club,76 
Telegraph, Electric, 33*, 280 
Telegraph, General, Office, 53 
Temple Bar, 238 ; traitors’ heads 
exposed on, 239 

Temple Church, 118—120 ; Gar¬ 
dens, 142 

Temple, Inner and Middle, 140; 

their Halls, 140—142 
Termini of Railways, 70, 71 
Thames Embankment, 20*, 41, 42 
Thames, River; and objects of 
interest on its banks, 25*—30* 
41—43; plan of the river, 296 
300; Conservancy. 236 
Thames-street, Plan of, 294 
Thames Frozen over, 43, 44 
Thames Tunnel, 49*, 46 
Theatres, and Places of Amuse¬ 
ment, 43*, 187—192 
Thomas’s (St.) Hospital, 217 
Thoroughfares, principal, 17*, 18*, 
267—307 

Times newspaper office, 49* 

Tower of London, 80; ground-plan, 
83; horse armoury, 84—86, 
Queen Elizabeth’s armoury, 
88; jewel-house, 87; Wel¬ 
lington Barracks, 88; St. 
Peter’s ad Vincula, ib .; inter¬ 
ment s, 89, 90; eminent per¬ 
sons confined there, 90—92 ; 
persons murdered, 92; persons 
bom, ib. ; executions, 92, 93 
Tower Hamlets Cemetery, 134 
Toxophilite Society, 32 
Trafalgar-square, Flan of, 307 
Traffic of London Bridge, 20*, 43 
Train-bands, 249, 250 
Tramways, 37* 


Wesleyan 

Treasury, the, 47 
Trinity House, 64; High Water 
Mark, Low Water Mark, 43 
Tunnel under the Thames, 27* 
its construction, 48 
Turner Gallery of Pictures, 170,171 
Tussaud’s Wax Works,-44* 
Tyburnia, 13* 

Tyburn Gallows, 147, 264,290 

U. 

Union Club, 232 

United Seiwice Club, 228; Junior 
ditto, ib. 

United Service Museum, 185 
University of London, 203 
University Club, 232 
University College, 204; school 
terms and fees, ib. 

University College Hospital, 222 

Y. 

Value of Land in London, 10* 
Vauxliall Bridge, 46 
Vernon Gallery, 176 
Victoria Cemetery, 134 
Victoria Docks, 69 
Victoria Embankment or Thames 
Quay, 41, 42 
Victoria Park, 32 
Victoria Railway Station, 71 
Victoria Theatre, 190 
Victoria Tower, 35 
Vintners’ Hall, 246 

W. 

Walker’s eulogy of club-life, 231 
Walks through London, 19*, 20* 
Walpole (Horace) where bom, 251; 
his blazon of arms for White’s 
Club, 229 

War (Secretary of State for), 
Offices of, 50 

Wash-houses and Baths, 225 
W ater Compilnies, 77 
Water Gate (by Nic. Stone), 26* 
Waterloo, model of the Battle of, 
186 

Waterloo Bridge, 45,26* 

Weavers’ Hall, 249 
Wellington,Duke of; his mansion, 
10 ; interview with Nelson, 
49; statues, 266; grave, 114 
Wesleyan Chapel, City-road, 130 
287; Normal College, 214 


I 






INDEX 


327 


West Ikdia. 

West India Docks, 65 
Western Railway, Great, Termi¬ 
nus, 70 

Westminster (City of), 12* 
Westminster Abbey, 94; hours 
of admission, 95; ground- 
plan, 99; chapels and tombs, 
95—109; monuments in the 
transepts, choir, and nave, 
101—104; Poets’ Corner, 105 
—107; cloisters, 109; the 
Chapter House, 109; eminent 
persons buried in the Abbey, 
110 , 111 

Westminster Bridge, 25*, 45 
Westminster Hall, 36; Law 
Courts, 136 

Westminster Hospital, 222 
Westminster, Marquis of; his 
mansion, 15 

Westminster School and its cele¬ 
brities, *206 
White’s Club, 228 
Wliitebait, 312 i 

Whitecross-street Prison, 148 ! 

Whitfield’s Chapel, Tottenham- ; 
court-road, 130 


Zoological 

Whitehall Palace : its origin and 
destruction,5; KingCharles’s 
execution, 6; paintings, sculp¬ 
ture, &c., 6, 7 
White Tower, 82 
Whittington Club, 233 
Will Office, 56 
Willis’s Rooms, 191 
Wimbledon Common, 309 
Windows, number of, in Somerset 
House, 57 

Windsor Castle, 308 
Woking Cemetery, 131 
Woods’ Office, 50 

Woolwich Arsenal, 312; dock¬ 
yard, 312 

Workman’s Dwellings, 225 
Works, Office, 51 
Wren’s I’lan for rebuilding Lon¬ 
don, 15* ; his monument, 113 

Y. 

York Columx, 265 


Z. 

I Zoological Gardens, Regent’ s- 
park,31,191 


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